• 


DUKE 

UNIVERSITY 

LIBRARY 


Treasure  "Room 


/ 


I 


A 

NARRATIVE 

OF    THE 

EXTRAORDINARY  ADVENTURES, 

AND 

Sufferings  by  Shipwreck  Iff  Imprjfenment, 

O  F 

DONALD  CAMPBELL,  Esq, 

OF  BARBRECK : 

WITH  THS   SINGULAR   HUMOURS  OF   HIS  TARTAR   GUIDE, 

Hassan  3rfa?; 

COMPRISING 

The  Occurrences  of  Four  Tears  and  Five  Days, 

IN    AN 

OVERLAND  JOURNEY 

TO 

INDIA. 


IN  A  SERIES  OF  LETtEP.S  TO.HIS  SOM. 


V  What  is  this  world  ?  Thy  fchool,  O  mifery  ! 
'   Oar  only  lefibn  is,  to  iearn  to  l'ufl'er  ; 
*'  And  he  who  knows  not  that,  was  burn  for  nothing." 

Younc. 


SECOND  AMERICAN  EDITION. 


NEW-YORK  : 

PRINTED  FOR  EVERT  DUYCKINCK  &  CO. 

No.  iio,  Pkarl-Street. 

1798. 


C  1*7/1/ 


AD  VER  TISEMENT. 


T 

JL  H  E  events  related  in  the  following 
pages,  naturally  became  a  frequent  fubjeft  of  con- 
verfation  with  my  children  and  my  friends.  They 
felt  fo  much  fa:isfa£lion  at  the  accounts  which  I 
gave  them,  that  they  repeatedly  urged  me  to  com- 
mit the  whole  to  paper;  and  their  affectionate  par- 
tiality induced  them  to  fuppofe,  that  the  narrative  * 
would  be,  not  only  agreeable  to  them,  but  intere fl- 
ing to  the  public.  In  complying  with  their  folici- 
tations,  I  am  far  from  being  confident  that  the 
fucccfs  of  my  efforts  will  juflify  their  hopes  :  L 
truff,  however,  that  too  much  will  not  be  expell- 
ed, in  regard  to  literary  compofition,  from  a  per  fori 
whole  life  has  been  principally  devoted  to  the 
duties  o£  a  foldier  and  the  fervice  of  his  country — 
and  that  a  fcrupulous  adherence  to  truth  will  com. 
penfate  for  many  blemifhes  in  flyle  and  arrange- 
ment. 


CONTENTS. 


PART    I . 


LETTER   L      Page  13. 
Introductory. 

LETTER  II.     Page  16. 

Ridiculous   Effects   of  Ignorance,  exemplified   in  a  whimfical; 
Story  of  two  Dublin  Aldermen. 

LETTER  III.     Page  21. 

Author's  Motives  for  going  to  India.  Melancholy  Presenti- 
ments. Caution  againft  Superftition.  Journey  to  Margate. 
Packet.  Confoled  by  meeting  General  Lockkart  on  bo^rd, 
Lands  at  Oilend. 

LETTER   IV.     Page  24. 

Short  Account  of  the  Netherlands.  Conduct,  of  the  Belgi.ms. 
Oltend  defcribed.  Wondertul  Effetts  of  Liberty  on  the 
Human  Mind,  exemplified  in  the  Defence  of  OlUnd  againib 
thc  Spaniards. 

LETTER  V.     Page  29. 

Caution  againft  ufing  Houfes  of  Entertainment  on  the  Conti- 
nent kept  by  Englifhmen.  Defcription  of  the  Barques. 
Arrives  at  Bruges.  Grofs  Act  of  defpotifm  in  the  Emoe- 
for.     Imprilonment  of  La  Fayette. 

LETTER  VI.      Page  34. 

Defcription  of  Bruges.      Reflections  on  the  Rife  and  Doc 
Empires.      Chief  Grandeur    of  the    Cities    of  Chriflen 

'led   in    Buildings,  the  Works    of  Monk, 
and  Scniuality.     Superilition  a  powerful  Eng 

LETTER  VII.      Page  39. 

Opulence   of  the    Bifhop   of  Bru^rs.      C^hedral;      Church    of 
:   D-,;:?.     Vefliticnts   of  T;:0;jas  a   Becket.     Extra— 

A  2 


6  CONTENTS. 

ordinary  Picture.     Monaftery  of  trie   Dunes.      The   Mortifi- 
cation of  that  Order.      A  curious  R:iic. 

LETTER  VIII.      Page  4-. 

PafTage  to  Ghent.  Cheapnefs  of  Travelling.  Defcription  of 
Ghent.  Cathedral.  Monaftery  of  St.  Pierre.  Charity 
of  the  Clergy. 

LETTER   IX.     Page  51. 

Defcription  of  two  brazen  Images,  ere&ed  in  Commemora- 
tion of  an  extraordinary  Act  of  Filial  Virtue.  Journey 
from  Ghent  through  Aloft  to  BruiTels. 

LETTER  X.     Page  55. 
General  Review  of  Auftrian  Flanders. 

LETTER  XI.      Page  60. 

Short  defcription  of  Bruffels.  Royal  Library.  Arfenal.  Ar- 
mour of  Muiuezuma.  The  Enormities  committed  under 
tie  Pretext  of  Chriftianity,  by  far  greater  than  thole  com- 
mitted by  the  French  in  the  Frenzy  of  emancipation. 

LETTER   XII.     Page  66. 

Bui fTe Is  continued.  Churches,  Chapels,  Toys,  Images  and 
Pictures.  A  Hod,  or  Water,  which  was  (tabbed  by  a  Jew, 
and  bled  profufely.      Inns  excellent  and  cheap. 

LETTER  XIII.     Page  71. 

General  Remarks  on  the  people  of  the  Netherlands.  Account 
of  the  Emperor  Joseph  the  Second.  Anecdote  of  that  Mo- 
narch His  Inauguration  at  Bruffels.  Burning  of  the  Town- 
houfe.  Contrafted  conduct  of  the  Belgians  to  Josf.ph  on 
his  Arrival,  and  after  his  Departure.  The  deteftablc  Effects 
of  Ariftocracy. 

LETTER   XIV.     Page  79. 

Lieg».  Conftitution  of  the  German  Empire.  Tolerant  Dif- 
pofition  of  Joseph  the  Second,  occasions  a  Vifit  from  His 
Holinefs  the  Pope,  ,who  returns  to  Rome  in  difappoint- 
ment.  Situation  of  the  prefent  Emperor.  Reflections  on 
the  Conduct  of  Ruffia  and  Pruffia  to  Poland. 

LETTER  XV.     Page  86. 

Luxury  of  the  Bifhop  of  liege.  Refl-clions  on  the  Inconfift- 
ency  of  the  Profeifions  and  Practice  of  Churchmen,  parti- 
cularly theaAc\0  Epifcepuri,  wkick  Bifhops  fwcar  at  their  lu- 


CONTENTS.  7 

Ratement.  Advantages  of  the  Rudy  of  the  Law  in  all  Coun- 
tries. Liege,  the  Puradife  of  PnefU.  Sir  John  Mamde* 
vi  l  l*s  Tomb. 

LETTER    XVI.     Page  91. 

Aix~la-Chapel!e.  A  bit  of  Earth  iu  a  Golden  Cafket.  Con- 
fecration  of  the  Cathedral,  by  an  Emperor,  a  Pope,  snd 
three  hundred  and  fixty-five  Bnfhops.  Their  valuable  Prc- 
fents   to  that  Church. 

LETTER   XVII.     Page  96. 

Juliers.  Reflections  on  Religious  Persecution.  Cologne. 
Church  of  St.  Urfula.  Bones  of  eleven  thoufand  Virgin 
Martyrs.  Church  of  St.  Gerion.  Nine  hundred  Heads  of 
KlooriQl  Cavali°rs.  Reflections  on  the  Eitablifhment  of 
Clergy,  and  the  Superiority  of  that  of  Scotland. 

LETTER  XVIII.     Page  101. 

Cologne  continued.  Strange  Ambition  of  Families  to  be 
thought  Defendants  of  the  Romans.  Story  of  Lord  An- 
son* and  a  Greek.  Pilot.     Bonne.     Bridge   of  Casfar.     Cob- 

lentz.     Mentz.     Frankfort, 

LETTER  XIX.     Page  106.. 

Frankfort  defcribed.  Golden  Bull.  Auglburgh.  Manufac- 
tory  of  Watch-Chains,  &c.  Happy  Scate  of  Society  arifing 
from  the  tolerant  Difpoiuion  of  the  Inhabitants. 

LETTER   XX.     Page  in. 

Augfburgh  continued.     Adventure   in  the  Convent   of  Carme- 
lites.    A  good  Friar. 

LETTER  XXI.      Page  116. 

Tyrol  Country,  Story  of  Genii  leading  the   Emperor    Max- 
im ;  lion  aitray.      Innfpruck. 

LETTER  XXII.     Page  121. 

Tyroleft.  Innfprack.  Riches  of  the  Francifcan  Church 
there.  One  Mafs  in  it  Sufficient  to  deliver  a  Soul  from  Pur- 
gatory. Hall.  Curiofuies  at  the  Royal  Palace  of  Ombras. 
Br  Hen.  Valley  of  Bolfano.     Trent. 

LETTER  XXIII.     Page  126. 
Dercript;on   of  the  Bifhopric   of   Trent,     Obvious  Difference 
between  Germany  and  Italy.     Contrail  between  the  Characi- 


8  CONTEXTS. 

crs  of  the  Germans  and  Italians.   Council  of  Trent.      Tower 
for  drowning  adulterers.     BaiTano.     Venice.    ' 

LETTER  XXIV.     Page  131. 

General  Description  of  Venice,  and  Reflections  on  the   Vene- 
tians. 

LETTER  XXV.      Page  137. 

Concubinage    more     fyflematically    countenanced     in    Venice 
than  London.     Tritfte.     Lo'.s   of  fer\an:   and    Interpreter, 

Sail  tor  Alexandria.      Zante. 

LETTER  XXVI.      Page  1 13. 
Adventure  at  the  Ifland  of  Zante.     Alexandria.     The  Piague, 
and  an    Tncurfion  of  the  Arabs.      Pompey'j  Pillar,  Cleopa- 
tra's Obelifk,  &c.   Ifland  of  Cyprus,  Latichea.     Aleppo. 


PART     II. 


LETTER  XXVII.      Page  156.- 
Defcription  of  Aleppo. 

LETTER  XXVIII.     Page  162. 
Short   Account   of  the  Turkifh  Conftitution  and  Government;. 

LETTER  XXIX.      Page  168. 

Account  of  Turkifh    Conftitution  and  Government  continued: 
Moral  Character  of  the  Turks. 

LETTER  XXX.     Page  174. 

Prejudices  of  Chriflian  Writers,  and  their  Mifreprefenta- 
tions  of  the  Turkifh  Morals  and  Religion.  Vindication  oi 
the  latter. 

LETTER  XXXI.      Page  18D. 
Vindication  or  the  Turks    eontinued.      Description  of  a  Cara- 
van.    Acconnt  of  Ceremonies  ufed  by  Pilgrims    at  Mecca* 

LETTER  XXXII.     Page  194. 
Aleppo   continued.     Frequent   Broils  in  the  Street*. 


CONTENTS.  9 

LETTER  XXXIII.     Page  203. 
Aleppo  continued.     Coffee-Houfes.     Story-tellers. 

LETTER  XXXIV.      Page  206. 

Aleppo  continued.     Puppet-fhews.    Rargahuze,  or  Punch,  hi  3 
Freedom  of  Speech  and  Satire. 

LETTER  XXXV.      Page  213. 

Difagrecable  Adventure,   which    occafions  a  fudden  Departure 
from  Aleppo. 

LETTER  XXXVI.     Page  220. 

A    plan     of   Travelling     fettled.     Tartar   Guide.     Departure 
from  Aleppo. 

LETTER  XXXVII.     Page  227. 

D:fcription  of  Tartar  Guide.  His  conduct.  Arrival  at  Diar- 
beker.  Padan  Ar»m  of  Motes.  Scripture  Ground.  Re- 
flections. Defcription  of  the  Citv  of  Diarbeker.  Whimfic- 
al  Incident  occafioned  by  Laughing.     Oddity  of  the  Tartar. 

LETTER  XXXVIII.     Page  233. 

Strang;  Traits  in  the  Tartar's  Character.  Buys  Women,  ties 
them  up  in  Sacks,  and  carries  them  50  miles.  Reflexions 
on  the  Slave  Trade.  Apoflrophe  to  the  Champion  of  the 
eppreffed    Africans. 

LETTER  XXXIX.     Page  239. 
Extravagant    Conduct  of    the  Tartar,  which  he  afterwards  ex- 
plains  iatisfactoriiy.     Extraordinary    Incident  and  Addrefs 
of  the  Tartur,   in  the  Cafe  of  Santons-. 

LETTER   XL.     Page  245. 

Exp'anation  of  the  Affair  by  the    Santons.     Bigotry.     Reflect- 
ions. 

LETTER  XLI.     Page  25c 
Arrives  at    Moful.      Defcription    thereof.     A  Story-teller.      A 
Puppet-fhew.      The    Tartar     forced    to    yield    to  Laughter, 
which  he  fo  much    condemned.     Set  out  for  Bagdad.     C2i- 
knders— their  artful  Practifes. 


10  CONTENTS. 


PART     ill. 


LETTER  XLII.     Page  2j8. 

Arrivrs  at  Bagdad.  Whimfical  Conduct  of  the  Guide.  Cha- 
racter of  the  Turks.  Short  Account  ef  Bagdad.  Effects  of 
Opinion.  Ruins  of  Babylon.  Leaves  Bagdad.  Attacked 
by  Rrobbers  on  thc^Tigris. 

LETTER  XLIII.      Page  265. 

Arrives  at  Baffora.  Account  of  that  City.  Leaves,  it,  and 
arrives  at  Bufheer.  More  Difappointment.  Bombay.  Goa. 
Gloomy  Prefentiments  on  leaving  Goa.    A  ftorm, 

LETTER  XLIV.     Page  271. 
Shipwreck. 

LETTER  XLV.     Page  278. 
The  fame. 

LETTER,     Page  283. 

Made  Prifoner  by  fome  of  Hyde  it    Alli'j    Troops.    Huma- 
nity of  a   Lafcar,    Hardfhips.  Meets    a  Friend.     Mr  Hall. 

LETTER  XLVII.     Tage   288. 

Mr.  Hall's  Mifery  aggravated  by  the  Lofs  of  a  Miniature 
which  hung  at  his  Bofom.  Sent  under  a  guard  up  the 
Country. 

LETTER  XLVII  I.     Page  293. 

Arrives  at  Hydernagur,  the  capital  of  the  Province  of  Bidanore. 
Brought  before  the  Jemadar.      Committed  to  Prifoc. 

LETTER  XLIX.      Page  899. 
Hiftcry  of  Hyat  Sahib.     Called  upon  to  enter  into  the  Service 
of  Hyder,  and  offered  a  Command.      Peremtorily  refuies. 
Another    Prifoner,  a    Native.      Court  of  Juflice.      Torturei 
and  Exa&ions.     Mr.  Hall  declining  faft. 

LETTER  L.     Page  33-. 
Mr.  Hall's   affe&ing  Story. 


CONTENTS.  II 

LETTER,  LI.      Page  313. 

Preffed  to  enter  into  the  Service  of  Hyder  Alli.  Refufal. 
Threatened  to  be  hanged.  Actually  fufpended,  but  let 
down  again.  Still  perfifts  in  a  Refufal,  and  determined  to 
undergo  any  Death  rather  than  enter.  Projects  a  Plan  to 
excite  a  Revolt,  and  efcape. 

LETTER  LIL     Page  319. 

Proje&s  to  efcape   defeated.       Laid   in    Irons.        Intolerable 
Hardfhips.      Death  of  Mr.  Hall. 

LETTER  LIII.     Page  324. 

Melancholy  Situation.  Cruelty.  Releafed  from  Prifoa. 
Account  of  Hyder,  and  the  Eaft  India  Politic*  in  general. 

LETTER  LIV.     Page  329. 
Eaft  India  Politics  continued. 

LETTER  LV.     Page  333. 

Account  of  Hyder,  and  Indian  Politics  continued.  General 
Mathews's  Defcent  on  the  Malabar  coaft.  Mounts  the 
Ghauts.  Approaches  towards  Hydernagur.  Author's  De- 
light at  getting  into  the  open  Air.  Delivered  by  an  unex- 
pected Encounter  from  his  Guards. 

LETTER  LVI.     Page  340. 

Returns  to  the  Fort,  and   propofes  to  the  Jemadar  to  give  it 
up  to  the  Englifh.     Proceeds  to  the  Englifh  Camp. 

LETTER  LVII.     Page  345. 

Meeting  with  General  Mathews.  Returns  to  the  Fort  with 
a  Cowl.  Delivers  it  to  the  Jemadar.  Leads  General  Ma- 
thews into  the  Fort,  and  brings  him  into  the  Prefence  of 
the  Jemadar.  Englifh  Flag  Hoifted.  Vindication  of  Gene- 
ral Mathews  from  the  Charge  of  Peculation. 

LETTER  LVIII.     Page  351. 

Sets  off  for  Bengal.  Cundapore.  Unable  to  proceed.  Let- 
ter from  General  Mathews.  Proceeds  in  an  open  Boat 
for  Anjengo.  Stopped  by  Sicknefs  at  Mangalore.  Telli- 
cherry.  Anjengo.  Travancore.  Dancing  Girls.  Palam- 
cotah.     Madura.     Revolt  of  Isif  Cawn. 

LETTER  LIX.     Page  357. 

Trichinoooly.     Tanjore.     Burning   of  Gentoo    Women  •with 
the  Bodies  of  their  Hufbands.     Negapatnam. 


tfa  CONTENTS. 

LETTER  LX.     Page  3$g, 

Leaves  >Jegapatnam.  Taken  by  a  French  Fri'yare,  Tforrj&te 
Reflections.  Suftrsin.  Character  of  Tippoo  Sahib. 
Efcape.      Arrives  at  Madras. 

LETTER  LXI.     Page  37?. 

PafTage  to  Bengal.  Negociation  for  Hvat  Sahib.  Mr. 
Hastings.  Sir  John  Macpherson.  "  He?rs  irom  Ma- 
cau-ley, Sir  John's  Secretary,  of  the  Servant  I  loft  at 
Triefte.     jagranaut  Pagoda.     Vizagapatnam. 

LETTER  LXI  I.     Page  383. 

Mafulipatarn.  Arrives  at  Madras.  Determines  to  proceed  om 
Hvat  '*  Bufinefs  to  Bombty.  Reaches  Palameotah.  Take* 
fick.  Recovering,  crawls  to  Anjengo,  and  thence  to  Bom- 
bay.    Reiolves  to  return  again  to  Madras. 

LETTER  LX1II.     Page  397. 

Ad.ventures  with  a  young  Lady.     Sural.     -China.     Bath.  Con- 

clufioa. 


=<a 


JOURNEY  TO  INDIA,  &c. 


L  ETTER    I. 

My  dear  Frederick, 

1  HE  tendernefs  of  a  fond  father's  heart 
admonifhes  me,  that  I  fhould  but  poorly  requite  the 
affectionate  loliti  ude  you  have  fo  often  exprefled,  to 
become  acquainted  with  the  particulars  of  my  jour- 
ney over  land  to  India,  if  I  any  longer  with-held 
from  you  an  account  of  that  fingular  and  eventful 
period  of  my  life.  I  confels  to  you,  my  dear  boy, 
that  often  when  I  have  endeavoured  to  amufe  you 
With  t lie  leading  incidents  and  extraordinary  vicif- 
fi  .ides  of  for'.une  which  chequered  the  whole  of 
that  feries  of  adventures,  and  obferved  the  eager 
attention  with  which,  young  though  you  were,  you 
liO^ned  to  the  lecital,  the  tender  ienfibility  you  dif- 
c'.oied  at  fome  paffages,  and  the  earned  cefue  you 
exprelfed  that  ?«  I  fhould  the  whole  relate,"  I  have 
felt  an  almofi;  irreiiftible  impulfe  to  indulge  you 
with  an  accurate  and  faithful  narrative,  and  have 
more  than  once  lat  down  at  my  bureau  for  the  pur- 
pofe  :  but  fober  and  deliberate  reflection  fuggefted 
ti:at  it  was  too  foon,  and  that,  by  complying  with 
you*  defire  jt  fuch  a  very  early  period  of  your  fife, 
I  ilioulu  but  render  the  great  end  I  propofed  by  it 


* 


14 


INTRODUCTION. 


abor'ive,  fruflrate  the  inflru&lon  which  I  meant  to 
oonvey,  and  imprefs  the  mere  incident  on  your 
memory,  while  the  moral  deciucible  from  it  muft 
necefTanly  evaporate,  and  leave  nrt  ttace,  or  rather 
excite  no  idea,  in  a  mind  not  fufficiemly  matured 
for  the  conception  of  abftra£l  principles,  or  prepared 
by  practice  for  the  deduction  of  moral  inferences. 

1  am  aware  that  there  are  many  people,  who, 
contemplating  only  the-number  of  your  days,  would 
confider  my  undertaking  this  arduous  tdfk,  and  offer- 
ing it  to. -your  refle&ion,  even  now,  premature:  but 
this  is  a  fubjeft  on  Which  I  have  (o  long  and  fo 
deliberately  dwelt,  which  I  have  di  feu  fled  with  fo 
much  care,  and  examined  with  fuch  impartiality, 
that  I  think  I  may  be  acquitted  of  vanity,  though 
I  fay  I  am  competent  to  form  a  judgment  .on  it. 
The  re  full  of  that  judgment  is,  that  I  am  determined 
to  indulge  you  without  further  delay  ;  and  1  trufl 
that  you  will  not,  on  your  part,  render  it  an  empty 
indulgence,  but,  on  the  contrary,  by  turning  every 
circumftjnee  to  its  beft  ufe,  by  converting  every 
feeling  which  thele  pages  mav  excite  in  your  heart 
into  matter  of  lerious  refaction,  and  by  making 
every  event  (as  it  happens  to  delerve)  an  example 
to  promote  either  emulation  on  the  one  hand,  or 
ciicumlpecYion  and  caution  on  the  other,  juftify  me. 
in  that  opinion  of  you  on  which  I  found  this  de- 
termination. 

I  remember,  that  when,  at  an  early  age,  I  entered 
upon  that  ftage  of  claflical  education  at  which  you 
are  now,  at  an  earlier  age,  arrived — I  mean  the 
^Eneid—  I  was  not  only  captivated  with  the  beauti- 
ful (lory  of  the  Hero,  in  the  fecond  Book,  but  drew 
certain  inferences  from  parts  of  it,  which  I  fhall 
never  foiget,  and  which  afterwards  ferved  to  give 
a  dirt  €t  on  to  the  growth  of  my  lentiments  on  occa- 
fions  of  a  funilar  nature  :  above  all,  the  filial  piety 
of  w£neas  made  a  deep  impreflion  on  ray  mind,  aj?^> 


INTRODUCTION. 


*5 


by  imperceptibly  exciting  emulation  inrny  bofom, 
augmented  considerably  the  natural  warmth  of  my 
■affection  and  refpect  for  my  father.  It  is  under  t he 
recollection  of  this  fenlation,  and  a  firm  per!uafion 
that  your  heart  is  fully  as  fufceptible  of  every  tender 
imprcfli-on,  and  your  underftanding  as  fit  for  the 
reception  of  ufeful  hi  (lory,  as  mine  was  then,  I  hat 
1  oveilook  your  extreme  youth,  and  write  to  you  as 
though  you  were  an  adult.  If  there  be  a  thing  on 
earth  of  which  1  can  boaft  a  perfect  knowledge,  it 
is  my  Frederick's  heart:  it  has  been  the  object 
of  my  uninterrupted  ftudy  almofl  fince  it  was  fir  ft 
capable  of  manifefting  a  ienfation  ;  and,  if  I  am  not 
very  much  miftaken  in  it  indeed,  the  lively  intereft 
Ire  feels  in  the  occurrences  of  his  father's  life,  is  the 
lefult,  not  of  idle  curioiity,  but  unbounded  filial 
affection.  Such  an  amiable  motive  fhall  not  be  dis- 
appointed in  its  end  ;  and  while  I  dilcharge  the  duty 
of  a  parent  in  gratifying  it,  I  fhall  be  encouraged 
and  futlained  under  my  labours  by  the  fanguine  ex- 
pectation, that  he  will  derive  from  my  exertions  the 
mod  folid  advantages  in  his  future  progrels  through 
life.  As  thole  advantages  are  expected  alio  to  extend 
to  my  dear  boy  John,  whofe  tender  years  disqualify 
hiin  from  making  the  lame  immediate  reflections  on 
the  various  Subjects  as  they  occur,  my  Frederick 
will  perceive  that  it  becomes  his  duty,  not  only  as 
a  good  ion,  but  as  an  affectionate  brother,  to  a ffi it 
and  enforce  them  upon  his  mind,  to  exphin  to  him 
the  difficulties,  and  furnifh  him  with  his  reafouings 
and  inferences  on  them,  lo  as  that  they  may  make, 
as  neatly  as  poflible,  equal  rmpieSTions  on  the  heart 
and  underftanding  of  both. 

*•  Felix  quern  faciunt  aliena  pericula  cautum  ;" 

And  though  few  have  the  felicity  to  be  warned  by 
other  men's  misfortunes  or  faults,  becaufe  they  Sel- 
dom moke  deep  impreffions  on  their  feelings,   I  am 

13  2 


l6  EFFECTS  OF  IGNORANCE. 

convinced  that  my  fufferings  and  errors,  as  they 
will  inteieft  my  Frederick's  heart,  and  gratify 
li is  curioHty,  cannot  fail  to  enlarge  his  understand- 
ing, and  improve  his  conduct. 

I  am  my  dear  Frederick,  &c, 

D.  C. 


LETTER    II. 


H 


.AVING,  in  compliance  with  your 
reiterated  folicitations,  determined  to  give  you  a 
narrative  of  my  journey  to  the  E-ffl  Indies,  and  the 
fii  g  .!cr  turns  of  fortune  which  befel  me  there,  I 
think  it  necelury,  on  reflection,  to  prepare  you  fliil 
further  for  the  reception  of  it,  by  propofmg  certain 
terms  to  be  fulfilled  on  your  part  ;  and  as,  in  my 
la  ft.  I  told  you  that  I  expected  you,  aid.  with  your 
afT.  ir  brother,    to   turn   my   relation  to  a 

more  ufefu!   account   than  the  gratification  of  mere 

e  curiofity,  by  letting  the  moral  deducible  from 
my  errors  and  m.- fortunes  ftrike  deep  and  take  root 
in  your  mine  —  io  there  are  other  things,  which, 
though  not  Io  extremely  important,  are  too  weghty 
to  be  neglected;  to  which  I  deftre  to  ciieft  your 
attention. 

I  believe   you  mufl  have  alresdy  perceived,   that 
well-being  of  vourlelf  and  your  brother  is  my 
firit — I    might,   perhaps,   without    trefpaning  m. 

h,   lay,   my    only    object  in  life  ;   that,   to 

the    care   of  your  education,   and  the  cultivation  of 

yo»r   mnu,    1    exclusively    devote  my  lime  and  my 

5;  and   that,  to   infure  your-  future  happu 


EFFECTS  OF  IGNORANCE.  17 

nefs,  I  xvould  facrifice  every  thing  I  have  a  right 
to  difoofe  of,  and  rifk  even  life  itfelf.  The  time, 
1  tiuft,  is  not  far  diftant,  when  your  brother  will 
be  as  well  qualified  to  underftand  this  as  you  are 
r,o\v — when  both  will  feel  alike  the  important  duty 
it  enforces  on  you — and  when  your  only  emulation 
will  be,  who  fhall  produce  the  mod  luxuriant  har- 
veft  to  reward  the  labours  I  have  taken — to  reward 
yourfelves. 

In  order,  therefore,  on  my,  part,  to  give  every 
thing  I  do  a  tendency  to  the  great  object  of  my 
wifhes,  and  induce  you,  on  your's,  to  contribute 
your  fhare  to  it,  I  fhall  give  you,  as  I  proceed  in 
my  narrative,  a  topographical  defcription  of  the 
various  Countries  through  which  I  mall  have  occa- 
fion  to  conduct  you,  and,  as  concilely  as  may  be, 
an  account  of  their  manners,  policy,  and  munici- 
pal inftitutions,  fo  far  as  I  have  been  able  to  collect 
them;  which  I  hope  will  ferve  to  awaken  in  you  a 
thiift  for  thofe  indifpenfible  parts  of  polite  educa- 
tion, Geography  and  Hiftory.  I  expeft  that  you 
will  carefully  attend  to  thofe  fciences,  and  that  you 
will  not  fuffer  yourfelf,  as  you  read  my  Letters,  to 
be  carried  away  by  the  rapid  dream  of  idle  curiofity 
from  incident  to  incident,,  without  time  or  dilpofi- 
tion  for  reflection  :  you  muft  take  excurfions,  as  you 
go  along,  from  my  Letters  to  your  Geographical 
Grammar  and  your  Maps — and,  when  neceiTary, 
call  in  the  aid  of  your  Tutor,  in  order  to  compare 
my  obfervations  with  thofe  of  others  on  the  lame 
places,  and  by  thofe  means  to  acquire  as  determnate 
an  idea  as  poflible  of  their  local  fhua'ion,  laws,  and 
comparative  advantages,  whether  of  Nature  or  Art. 
You  will  thus  enable  yourfelf  hereafter  to  confider 
how  fociety  is  influenced,  and  why  fome  commu- 
nities are  better  dite&ed  than  others. 

Here  I  mud  obferve  to  you.  that  as  geography  is 
a  fcience   to   which   rational   conversion,  as  fup- 

b3 


1.8  EFFECTS  OF  IGNORANCE. 

ported  by  gentlemen  of  breeding  and  education?, 
mod  frequently  refers,  the  leaft  ignorance  of  it  is 
continually  liable  to  detefticn,  and, '.when  detected, 
fubjefts  a  man  to  the  mod  mortifying  ridicule  and 
contempt. 

The  ingenious  George  Alexander  Stee*. 
vens  has,  in  his  celebrated  Lefture  upon  Head?, 
given  a  mcft  ludicrous,  inftance  of  this  ipecies  of 
ignorance,  in  the  chai after  of  a  citizen,  who,  cen- 
tring the  incapacity  of  miniflers-,  propoies  to  carry 
on  the  vvar  on  a  new  plan  of  his  own.  The  plan 
is,  to  put  the  troops  in  coik  jackets — fend  them, 
thus  equipped,  to  lea — and  lar.d  them  in  tht  Medi- 
terranean ;  When  his  companion  afks  him  where 
that  place  lies,  he  calls  him  fool,  and  informs  him 
that  the  Alediterranean  is  the  capital  of  Constanti- 
nople. Thus,  my  dear  Ion,  has  this  latirifi  ridicu- 
led ignorance  in  pretenders  to  education  ;  ar.d  :hus 
will  every  one  be  ridiculous  who  betrays  a  deficien- 
cy in  thii>  very  indilpeniable  ingredient  in  forming 
the  charofter  of  a  gentleman.  But  a  flory  which  I 
heard  from  a  perlon  of  ft  rift  veracity,  will  feive 
more  itrc.igly  to  fliew  you  the  fhame  attendant  on 
ignorance  of  thofe  things  which,  from  our  rank,  we 
are  fuppoied  to  know  ;  and  as  the  fear  of  lhame 
never  fails  to  operate  powerfully  on  a  generous 
mind,  1  am  fure  it  will  fervc  to  alairn  you  into 
ibduftry,  and  application  to  your  ftudies. 

During  the  late  American  war,  about  that  period 
when  the  King  of  France  was,  fo  fatally  for 
himfelf,  though  perhaps  in  the  end  it  may  prove 
fortunate  for  the  interests  of  mankind,  manifefting 
an  intention  to  interfe.e  and  join  the  Americans,  a 
worthy  alderman  in  Dublin,  reading  the  new '.pa- 
per, obferved  a  paragraph,  intimating,  that  in  con- 
sequence of  Biitifh  ciuiiers  having  flopped  fome 
French  veiTels  at  fea.  and  fearched  them,  Fiance 
had  taken  umbrage  !    The  fagacious  alderman,  nroie 


EFFECTS  OF  IGNORANCE.  19 

patriotic  than  learned,  took  the  alarm,  and  proceed- 
ed, with  the  paper  in  his  hand,  directly  to  a  brother 
of  the  board,  and.    with  unfeigned  iorrow,   deplo- 
red the  lofs  his  countiy  had  fuitained,   in  having  a 
place  of  fuch    confequence   as   Umbrage  ravifhed 
from  it  J — defiling,  of  all  things,   to    be    informed 
in  what  part  of  the  world   Umbrage   lay.     To   this 
the  other,  after  a  torrent  of  ihve&ive  a£ainfl  mini- 
flers,  and  condolence  with  his  afflicted  friend,    an- 
iwered  that   he  was  utterly   unable  to-  tell  him,  but 
that  he  had  often  heard  it  mentioned,  and  of  courfe 
conceived  it  to  a  place  of  gieat  importance  ;  at  the 
fame  time  prop  oft  ng  that  they  fhould  go  to  a  neigh- 
bouring book  feller,  who,  as  he  dealt  in  books,  muifc 
neceffaiily  know  eveiy  thing,  in  Older  to  have  this 
goidian  knot  un'ied.     They  accordingly  went ;  and 
having    propounded   the    queftion,     "  what  part  cf 
the  globe  Umbrage  lay   in  ?"   the  book  feller  took  a 
Gazetteer,   and,   having   fearched   it  diligently,   de- 
clared that  he  could    not  find    ir,  and    laid   he    wjs 
ajmofl;   fure  there   was  no    fuch   place  in  exiftence. 
To   this   the   two  aldermen,   with   a   contemptuous 
fneer,  aniwered  by  triumphantly  reading   the  pan- 
giaph  out  of  the  newlpaper.     The  bookseller,  who 
was  a   fhiewd    fellow,  and,    like  mod  of  his  coun- 
trymen, delighted  in    a  jell,   gravely    replied,   that 
the  Gazetteer  being  an   old  edition,    he    could  not 
antwer   for    it,    but    that   he  fuppofed   Umbrage  lay 
fomewhew;  on  the  coafb   of  Ameiics.      With    this 
the  wife  magiflrates  returned  home,  partly  (atisfied: 
but    what  words  can   exprels   their   chagrin    when, 
they  found   their  error — that  the  unlucky  bookfel- 
ler  had    fpread  the  flory   over   the  city — that   the 
newfpapers  were"  filled    with   fatirical    fquibs  upon 
it — nay,   that  a  caracature  print  of   themlelves  lead- 
ing the  city-watch  Jo  the  retaking  of  Umbrage,   was 
Ruck  up  in  every  fhop — and  finally,  that  they  couid 
icarcely  (albeit  aldermen)  walk  the  itreets,   without 


20  EFFECTS  OF  IGNORANCE. 

having  the  populace  fneer  at  them  about  the  taking 
of  Umbrage  ! 

Thus,  my  child,  will  every  one  be  mote  or  lcfs 
ridiculous  who  appears  obvioudy  ignorant  of  thdfe 
things  which,  from  the  rank  he  holds  in  life,  he 
fhou.ld  be  expected  to  know,  or  to  the  knowledge 
of  which  vanity  or  petulence  may  tempt  him  to 
pretend. 

I  am  fure  I  need  not  fay  more  to  you  on  this 
fubjeS  ;  for  I  think  you  love  me  too  well  to  ciifap- 
p'oint  me  in  the  fir  ft,  wifh  of  my  heart,  and  I  believe 
you  .have  too  much  manly  piide  to  iurh-r  io  degra- 
ding a  defect  as  indolence  to  expofe  you  hereafter 
to  animadverfion  or  contempt.  Remember,  that  as 
nothing  in  this  life,  however  trivial -or  worthlefs, 
is  to  be  procured  without  labour — fo,  above  all 
others,  the  weighty  and  invaluable  treafures  of  eru- 
dition are  only  to  be  acquired  by  exertions  vigor- 
ously made  and  unremittingly  continued. 

"  Quid  munus  reipublicee  majus  aut  melius  afferre 
;;  poflumus  quam  fi  juventutem  bene  erudiamus." — 
Thus  faith  the  matchlels  Tully.  If,  then,  the 
education  of  youth  interefls  fo  very  deeply  a  (late, 
can  it  lels  powerfully  interell  him  who  (lands  in 
the  twofold  connection  of  a  citizen  and  parent  ? 
It  is  the  lively  anxiety  of  my  mind,  on  this  point, 
tint  obliges  me  to  procraftinate  the  commencement 
of  my  narrative  to  another  letter,  and  induces  me 
to  entreat  that. you  will,  in  the  mean  time,  give 
this  the  confideration  it  deferves,  and  prepare  your 
mind  to  follow  its  inftruclions. 


MOTIVES  FOR  THE  JOURNEY.       2-1 


LETTER    III. 


il  VARIETY  of  unpropicious  circum- 
fiances  gave  rife  to  my  journey  to  the  Eaft.  Indies, 
while  domeftic  caLamity  maiked  my  departure,  and, 
at  the  very  ouifet,  gave  me  a  foretafteof  thofe  mile- 
lies  which  fate  had  referved  to  let  fall  upon  me  in 
the  fccjuel.  The  channels  from  which  1  drew  the 
means  of  fupporting  my  family  in  that  ftyle  which 
their  rank  and  connections  obliged  them  to  maintain, 
were  clogged  by  a  coincidence  of  events  as  unlucky 
as  unexpected  :  the  war  in  India  had  interrupted 
the  regular  remittance  of  my  property  from  thence  : 
a  fevete  {hock  which  unbounded  generofi'y  and 
beneficence  had  given  to  the  affairs  of  my  father, 
lendered  him  incapable  of  maintaining  his  uiual 
pun&uality  in  the  payment  of  the  income  he  had 
afligned  me  ;  and,,  to  crown  the  whole,  I  had  been 
deprived,  by  death,  of  two  lovely  children  (your 
brother  and  lifter),  whom  I  loved  not  lefs  than  I 
have  finee  loved  you  and  your  brother. 

It  was  under  the  prefluie  of  thole  accumulated 
afflictions,  aggravated  by  the  goading  thought  of 
leaving  my  family  for  fuch  a  length  or  tfme  £S  muft 
neceffarily  etapfe  before  I  could  again  fee  them,  that 
I  fet  out  for  India  in  the  month  of  May,  in  the 
year  1781,  with  a  heart  overwhelmed  with  woe, 
and  too  furely  predictive  of  mftfortunes. 

From  the  glodrny  cave  of  depreiTion  in  which  my 
mind  was  funk,  I  looked  forward,  to  leek,  in  the 
future,  a  gleam  of  comfort — but  in  vain  :   net  a  ray 


«      MOTIVES  FOR  THE  JOURNEY. 

appeared — Melancholy  had  thrown  her  fombre  fha- 
dow  on  the  whole.  Even  prefent  affliction  yielded 
up  a  (hare  of  my  heart  to  an  unaccountable  difmal 
presentiment  of  future  ill  ;  and  the  dilafters  and 
difappointments  I  had  palled,  were  loft  and  forgot- 
ten in  ominous  forebodings  and  inftin£tive  pieiages 
of  thofe  that  were  to  come. 

Of  all  the  weaknefTes  to  which  the  human  mind 
is  fubjecl:,  iuperftition  is  that  againft  which  I  would 
have  you  guard  with  the  utmoft  vigilance.  It  is  the 
mod  incurable  canker  of  the  mind.  Under  its  un- 
relenting dominion,  happinefs  withers,  the  under- 
ftanding  becomes  obfcured,  and  every  principle  of 
joy  is  blafted.  For  this  reafon  I  wifh  to  account 
for  thofe  prefages,  by  referring  them  to  their  true 
phyftcal  causes,  in  order  thereby  to  prevent  \our 
young  mind  from  receiving,  from  what  I  have 
written,  any  injurious  impiefiion,  or  fuperilitious 
idea  of  prefentiment,  as  it  is  fafhionably  denominated. 

If  the  mind  of  man  be  examined,  it  will  be  found 
naturally  prone  to  the  contemplation  of  the  future- 
its  flights  from  hope  to  hope,  or  fear  to  fear,  lead- 
ing it  infenfibly  from  objects  prefent  and  in  poiTef- 
fion,  to  thofe  remote  and  in  expectation — from 
pclitive  good  to  fuppofitious  better,  or  from  actual 
melancholy  to  imaginary  misfortune.  In  thele 
cafes,  the  mind  never  fails  to  lee  the  pro(pe£fc  in 
colours  derived  from  the  medium  through  which  it 
is  viewed  and  exaggerated  by  the  magnifying  power 
of  fancy.  Thus  my  mind,  labouring  under  all  the 
uneafinefs  I  have  deicribed,  faw  every  thing  through 
the  gloomy  medium  of  melancholy,  and,  looking 
forward,  f©ieboded  nothing  but  misfortune  :  acci- 
dent afterwards  fulfilled  thofe  forebedmgs  ;  but 
accident,  nay.  the  mofi  tiifling  cly'ng-  of  circum- 
flances,  might  poflibly  have  fo  totally  changed  the 
face  of  my  lublequent  progrels,  that  good  fortune, 
inftead  of  mi.advciKuie.  might   have  been  my  lot. 


MOTIVES  FOR  THE  JOURNEY.       23 

and  foall  mv  forebodings  been  as  illufory  and  falli- 
ble as  all  fuch  phantoms  of  the  imagination  really 
are.  Tpus  I  argue  no*' — and  I  am  lure  I  atgue 
truly  ;  but  if  rcafon  be  not  timely  called  in  and 
made,  as  it  were,  an  habitual  inmate,  it  avails  but 
little  againft  the  oveibearing  f<  ice  of  fupe/Jtuion 
who,  when  fhe  once  gets  polLflion  of  the  mind) 
holds  her  feat  with  unrelenting  tenacity,  and  call- 
ing in  a  whole  hofl  of  horrors,  with  def^air  at 
their  head,  to.  her  aid,  entrenches  herlelf  behind 
their  formidable  poweis,  and  bids  defiance  to  me 
afoul ts  of   realon. 

4  Thus  it  fared  with  me— Under  the  dominion  of 
a  gloomy  pretentiment,  I  IcFl  London  ;  and  my 
joijlney  down  to  Margate,  where  I  was  to  take 
^{^"g*  was,  as  Shakspeare  emphatically  lays, 
*8  aphantafm,  or  a  hideous  dream— and  my  hnle 
«■  flate  of  man  iuffered,  as  it  weie,  the  nature  of 
"  an  infuncaton  :"— the  chaos  within  me  forbade 
even  the  approach  of  di  criminate  rcfl,£t  on  ;  and 
I  found  myielf  on  board  the  packet,  bound  to  Of. 
tend,  without  having  a  fmgle  trace  let t  upon  my 
mind,  of  the  intermediate  Itages  and  incidents  that 
happened  fince  I  had  h  f ■  London. 

It  has  been  obferved—  and  I  wifli   you  always   to 
carry  it  in  memory,   as- one  of    the  beft  conlolaiions 
under    affl.a;on--that    human    fufierings,     like    all' 
other   things,    find  their  vital    principle    exhaufted, 
and  their  exti&.on  accelerated,  by  overgiowth  ;  and 
that,  at  the  moment  when  man  think*  himfelf  moft 
rmlerable,  a  benignant  Providence  is  preparing   re- 
lief,  in  fome    form   or   other,    for    him'.      So    i:,   in 
fome  fort,  happened  with  me  ;   for  I  was  fortunate 
enough  to   find    in    the  -acket    a    feliow-paffenger 
\vhofe  valuable  cor*v*-fation  and  agreeable  manners 
begu:red  me  infenfibiv  of  the  gloomy  contemplation 
Jn  wh.ch  I  was  abloibed,   and  afforded  my  tortured 
mind  a  temporary  fulpenfion  of  pain.     This  gen- 


#4  ACCOUNT  OF  THE 

tleman  was  General  Locrhart  :  he  was  going  lt> 
BrnflWs,  to  pay  his  court  to  the  Emperor  Joseph 
the  Second,  who  was  then  fhortly  expelled  in  the 
Low  Countries,  in  order  to  go  through  the  cere- 
monies of  his  inauguration.  As  Brufieis  lay  in  my 
way,  I  was  flattered  with  the  hopes  of  having  for 
a  companion  a  gentleman  at  once  fo  plennng  in  his 
manners  and  refp'£hb!e  in  his  chaia&er,  and  was 
much  comforted  when  I  found  him  as  much  difpo- 
fed  as  myielf  to  an  agreement  to  travel  the  whole  of 
the  way  thither  tog  iher.  Thus,  though  far,  very 
far  from  a  ftate  of  eale,  I  wa-,  when  landing  at 
Oftcnd,  at  leaft  lefs  mifeiabk  than  at  my  coming 
on  board  the  packet.  4r 

As  this  letter  is  already  fpun  to  a  Iengrh  too^Wf&t 
to  admit  of  any  matetial  part  of  the  defcriptiw*  I 
am  now  to  give  you  of  Ofler.d,  and  the  country  to 
which  it  b  longs,  I  think  it  better  to  ppftpone  it 
to  my  next,  which  I  mean  to  devote  entiiely  to 
that  fubj  6k.  find  thereby  avoid  the  confufion  that 
ariies  fjum  mixing  two  fiibj  £t>  in  the  lame  letter, 
or  breskmg  off  the  thread  or  one  in  order  to  make 
way  fci  ti.t  oiher. 

A-dicu,  my  dear  boy  ! — Forg-'t  not  your  brother 
John.  That  yqa  hiiay  both  be  good  and  happy,  is 
all  the  Willi  now  left  to,    &c. 


LETTER    IV. 


JL  HAT  country  to  which  I  am  now  to 
C?U  your  attention — I  mean,  the  Netbej lands — is 
marked  by  a  greater  number  of  political  changes, 
and  harafled  by  a  more  continued  train  of  military 


NETHERLANDS.  25 

operations,  than  perhaps  any  country  in  the  records 
of  modern  hiflory.  It  may  tiuly  be  called  the 
Ccckpit  Royal  of  Europe,  orj'  which  tyiants",  as 
ambition,  avarice,  pride,  cap^iccy  or  malignity, 
prompted  them,  pitted'-t  hop  lands,  and  hundreds  of 
thoufanclff  of  their  fellow-creatures,  to  cut  each 
other's  throats  about  fome  p^inAjr frivolous  as  regard- 
ing themfelves,  unimportant  to  mankind,  and  only 
tending  to  gratify  a  diabolical  luff,  for  dominion  ; 
Yet,  under  all  thefe  disadvantages,  (itch  are  the 
neural  qualities  of  this  country),  it 'has,  till  lately, 
been  in  a  tolerably  flcurifhing  ftate  jy- and  would, 
•  under  a  good  government  and  proper  picteciicn, 
e^ial  any  part  cf  Europe  for  richnefs. 

♦Flanders,    Eiiibart,  ard   the.  country  row  called 
the|tjnited    Netherlands,  were  in    general   known, 
by  the    name    cf    Netherlands,   Lew    Countries,  or 
Pais-has,    fr<  m  tl  eh  fituaticn,  as  it   is  hppofed,  in 
lefpeft    oT  Gernany.       Anciently,    they   fem  cc  a 
part  of  Be i^ic  Gaul,    of  which    you  Tray  len  ember 
to    have    read    an    account  in   the    Ccn  rrentaries  of 
Julius    Cesar,  who   cefoibes   the  inhabit?nts  as 
the  moft  valiant  cf  all  tit  Gallic  Naiicnr— "  Plorum 
*'   omnium    Belgae    iunt    fcitilTmi."       They   after- 
wards were  iurje£l  to  petty  princes,  and  n  sde  part 
of  the   German  Empire  ;  fro,  in  the  fifteenth  cen- 
tury,   became  Uljecl  to   Charles  the  Fifth  of  the 
Houfe    of   Auftna  ;    bit,    being   eppreffed   beyond 
endura  nee  by  his  fen,  Fwitip  the  Second  of  Spain, 
(that  blind  and  furious  Ligct),  they  openly  revolted 
— flew   to  arms  to  ailert  their  freedom  ;  and,   after 
a  iiruggle  as  glorious  in  efhft  as  virtuous  in  princi- 
ple--after  peifeiming  prodigies  of  valour,  and  ex- 
hibiting   examples  of  fonitue'e,  to  which  none  but 
men  fighting  in  the  godlike  caufe  of   Liberty  are 
competent — led  en  by  the  wifdem  and  valour  cf  the 
Prince  of  Orange,    and  aflifted  by  the  Sove- 
reign  of    Great    Britain — they  at  length'fo 

C 


26  ACCOUNT  OF  THE 

1     » 

far  fuccee^ed,    that  thofe  now  called    the  United 
Netherlands,     entered    into    a    folemn   league,    and 
forced  the  gloomy  tyrant  to  acknowledge  their  in- 
dependence.    But    that   part    to   which    I    am  now 
particularly    to   allude,    continued   annexed  to  the 
Houfe    of  Auftiia.      In  1787,    they   revolted,   and 
made  a  temporary    ftruggle   to  dilengage  tlumlelves 
from  the  dominion  oF  the  Emperor  ;   but,   owing 
to  fome  cabals   among  themselves,  and  the  temper- 
ate conduct  of  that    prince,     they  again  returned  to 
their  allegiance,   and  were  rewarded  with  a  general 
smnefty.       In    179-,   they   were    over-nin    by  the 
French  army  under  Genera!  DuMOURiER—open- 
ed  their  arms    to  thofe   republicans,    and  wer  ■   re. 
warded  for  it  by  opprefiion?   tyranny,  and  ti  juiticV. 
The  French,  however,   were  driven  b^ck  otr  of^he 
country  ;  and,  wonderful   t,6  relate,  they  again"e- 
ceived  their  old  matter,  the  Emperor,  with  fliong 
<lemOnfl!ations  of  joy,  and  mmifefled  thir  loyalty 
and   attachment   to  him    by  every   expreflicn  that 
abjeft  hypocrtly  could  fuggeft. 

«j  O  !  hew  unlike  their  Belgic  fires  of  old  i" 

Here,  could  I  flop  with  ftr?£r:  juftice,,  I  would — 
-But,  behold  !  the  French  again  came  ;  again  they 
opened  their  gates  to  receive  them;  and  again  they 
ver-:.  with  tenfold  fury  and  rapacity,  pillaged,  op- 
preiled  and  infilled  ;  and  at  the  very  time  I  am 
•Writing  this,  the  guillotine  is  doing  its  office — en- 
forcing the  payment  of  the  rhoft  exotbitant  and 
enormous  contributions,  and  compelling,  it  is  faid, 
one  hundred  thouianc  of  the  ill-fated  inhabitants 
to  take  the  field,   as  foUliers  of  the  republic. 

Human  opin'on  is  lo  chequered  and  uncertain, 
that  two  very  honed  men  may1  in  certain  cales  aft 
in"  direct  contradiction  and  hoflility  to  each  other, 
with  the  very  bell  intentions — He,  therefore,  muft 
have  but  a  cofcd  heart,  and  a  contracted  underftand 


NETHERLANDS,  1J 

ing,  who  cannot  forgive  the  man  that  acls  in  fuch. 
cales  erroneoufiy,  when  he  acls  hom  the  exaft  dic- 
tates of  hs  opinion,  and  upon  the  principle  which 
he  nas  confcientioufly  adopted  ;  but  when  a  wi;ois 
people  are  ieen  whitking  about  with  every  gufh  or 
fortune,  and  making  a  new  principle  for  evety  new 
point  cf  convenience,  we  inuft  diipife  them  even 
when  tiicy  happen  to  aft  right,  and  can  Icarcely  af- 
ford them  lo  much  as  pity  in  their  calamities.  The 
A  ifltrian  Netherlands  are  now  in  tjhat  fl-Ue  :  and, 
without  ptefuming  to  lay  in  which  of  their  tergiver- 
fationsthey  were  right,  I  will  venture  to  pronounce 
that  they  defcrve  purufhrnent,  and  I  believe  they 
»ie  in  hands  very  likely  to  give  tfiem  their  due. 

To    return — Otteud    is    a    fea-port    of    Aultrian 
Fianders,   and  is  (ituated  in  the  Liberty  of  Bruges. 
It    w<*s,  at   one    time,   the    ftrongefl   town  in  Flan- 
ders":  but  a  double  ditch  and  ramparts,   which  con- 
stituted   its    ftrength,   are   now    deflroyed  ;    and    in 
the  place  where  the  former  flood,   docks,  or  rather 
baions,   extremely  capacious  and  commodious,   are 
formed,  for  the  reception  of  {"hipping.    The  ground 
about  the  town  is  very  low  and  marlny,  and  cut  into 
a  number  of  fine  canals — into  iome  of  which,  fliips 
of  the  largeft  fize  may  enter — and  in  one  of  which, 
veflels    of  great    burthen    may   ride,   even    clofe  to 
Biuges.     The  harbour   here    is   (o   fortunately   cir- 
cumitanced,  that  it  was  once  thought,  by  engineers, 
en.irely    fecure   from  a  blockade  •,  and   its    prifline 
strength  can  in  no  way  be  fo  well  delcribed,  as  by 
a  relation   of  the   defence    it  made  in  the  four  firft 
years  of  the  feventeenlh  century — though,  near  the 
dole  of  the  iixteenth,   it   was  no  better  than  an  in* 
fignificant   filhing   town.      It    held   out  againfl  the 
Spaniards  for  three  years,   two  months,  and  fixtceu 

**  d-iys.      Eighty  thouland  men  toft  their  lives  before 
v,   while  fifty  thouland  Were  killed  or  died  within. 

■      it  at  lafl  lurrendeied,  but;   on  good  terms' j- and  not 


.48  ACCOUNT,  &c. 

for  want  of  men  or  provifions,  but  for  want  of 
ground  to  ftand  on,  which  the  enemy  took  from, 
them,  at  an  amazing  lofs,  Hep  by  flep,  till  they  had 
not  room  left  for  men  to  defend  it.  Three  hun  • 
«lred  thoufand  cannon-balls,  of  thirty  pounds  weight 
each,  were  fired  againfl  it ;  and  the  befieged  often 
filled  up  the  breaches  made  in  their  ramparts  witb 
heaps  of  dead  bodies. 

Such,  my  dear  boy,  are   the   miracles   that   men, 
animated    with   the   all-fubduing   fpirit  of  Liberty, 
can  perform — Liberty  !    that  immediate  jewel  of  the 
foul — that    firft    moving  principle  of  all  the  animal 
creation — which,  with  equal  power,  influences  the 
bird  to  beat  the  cage  with  its   wings,  and   the   lion 
to  tear  the  bars  of  his  imprifonrnent — the  infant  to 
fpring  from    the   tender  confinement  of  its  nurfe, 
and   the  lean    and.   fhxivelled    pantaloon,  to    crawl 
abroad,    and    fly    the    wafmth    and    repofe    of    his 
wholefome   chamber- — Liberty  !   which,   for  centu- 
ries  enthralled   by  artifice  and  fraud,  or  lulled  into 
a  {lumber  by  the  witching  fpirit  of  prieflcraft,  now 
rifes  hke  a.  giant   refrefhed  with.,  wine — in  its  great 
efforts   for   emancipation,    deftroys    and   overturns 
fyftems — but,  when  finding  no  reiiftance,  and  ma- 
tured by  time,  will,  I  fincerely  hope,  fink  appealed, 
into  a  generous  calm,  and  become  the  bleffing,  the 
guardian  and  proteftor  of  mankind  ! 

It  is  your  good  fortune,  my  dear  children,  to  be 
born  at  a  time  when  Liberty  feems  to  be  well  un- 
derftood  in  your  own  country,  and  is.  univerially 
the  prevalent  paflion  of  men.  It  is  alrnoft  needlefs, 
therefore,  for  me  to  exhort  you  to  make  it  the 
groundwork  of  your  political  morality  :  but  let  me 
remind  you  to  guard,  above  all,  againfl  the  defpo- 
tifm  of  certain  tyrants,  to  whom  rruny  of  the  great- 
etl  advocates  for  liberty  are  ftrangely  apt  to  fubmit 
—I  mean,  your  pafiions.  Of  all  other  tyrants,, 
they  axe  the  moft.  fubtle,  the  moft  bewitching  the 


JOURNEY  TO  BRUGES.  29 

mod  overbearing,  and,  what  is  worfe,  the  mod 
cruel.  Beneath  the  dominion  of  other  defpots, 
tranauility  may  alleviate  the  weight  of  your  chains, 
and  {often  opprefTion  ;  but  when  once  you  become 
the  flive  of  your  paflions,  your  peace  is  for  ever 
fled,  and  you  live  and  die  in  unabating  mifery. 


LETTER    V. 


JL  HE  pride  of  the  Englifh  is  remarked 
all  over  the  globe,  even  to  a  proverb  !  But  pride 
is  a  word  of  Inch  dubious  meaning,  fo  undefined 
in  its  fenfe,  and  drained  to  fuch  various  imports, 
that  you  fhall  hear  it  violently  execrated  by  one, 
and  warmly  applauded  by  another — -this  denouncing 
it  as  a  Tin  of  the  fir  it  magnitude,  and  that  main- 
taining it  to  be  the  moil  vigilant  guardian  of  human 
virtue,  Thofe  differences  in  opinion  wife  not  from 
any  defect  in  the  intellects  of  either,  but  from  each 
viewing  the  fubjeci:  in  that  one  point  in  which  it 
firft  ftrikes  his  eye,  or  belt  fuits  his  tafte,  his  feel- 
ing, or -hSs  prejudices.  I  have  no  doubr,  however, 
but  a  full  confide! alion  of  the  fubjeci;  would  ftteV, 
that  pride,  as  it  is  called,  is  only  good  or  bad  as  tho 
ohjeft  from  which  it  arifes  is  mean  or  magnificent, 
culpable  or  meritorious.  That  noble  pride  which 
Simulates  to  extraordinaiy  a£ts  of  generolity  and 
magnanimity,  fuch  as,  in  many  in  (lances,  has  dif- 
linguifhed,  above  all  others,  the  nobility  of  Soain, 
exacts  the  homage  and  admiration  of  mankind  ; 
But  1  fear  very  much  that  our  Englifh  pride  is  oi 
another  growth,  and  Imells  too  rankly  of  that  over- 
tliaiued  commercial  fpirit  which  makes  the  bafis  oi 
the  prelent  giandeur  of  Great  Britain,  but  which, 
in  my  humble  judgment,  railes  only  to  debafe  her 

C   2 


3<5  JOURNEY  TO  BRUGES* 

•—by  flaw,  fubtle  degrees,  poifons  the  national 
principle,  enflaves  the  once  bold  fpirit  of  the  peo- 
ple, detracts  from  their  real  folid  felicity,  and,  by 
confounding  the  idea  of  national  wealth  with  that 
of  national  profperity,  leads  it  in  rapid  ftrides  to 
its  downfall.  In  (hort,  we  are  approaching,  I  fear, 
with  daily  accelerated  fteps,  to  the  difpofuion  and 
fordid  habits  of  the  Dutch,  of  whom  Doftor 
Goldsmith  fo  very  pertinently  and  truly  ipeaks^ 
when  he  fays, 

"  Ev'n  Liberty  itfelf  is  barter'd  here  V 

Without  leading  your  mind  through  a  maze  of 
difquifuion  on  this  fubjeft,  which  might  fatigue 
with  abftrufenefs  and  prolixity,  I  will  bring  you 
back  to  the  point  from  which  the  matter  darted,, 
and  content  myfelf  with  remarking,  that  the  pride 
of  the  EngliQi,  fpeaking  of  it  as  a  part  of  the  nati- 
onal character,  is  the  meanefl  of  all  pride.  The 
inflation  of  bloated,  overgrown  wealth,  an  over- 
weening affection  for  money,  an  idolatrous  worfhip 
©f  gain,  have  abfolutely  confounded  the  general 
intellect,  and  warped  the  judgment  of  the  many  to 
that  excefs,  that,  in  eftimating  men  or  things,  they 
always  refer  to  li  what  is  he  worth  ?■"  or,  "  what 
will  it  fetch  ?"  This  fordid  habit  of  thinking  was 
finely  hit  off  by  a  keen  fellow,  the  native  of  a 
neighbouring  kingdom,  who,  for  many  years,  car- 
ried on  bufmefs  in  London,  and  failed  : — Sitting 
one  day  in  a  coffee-houfe  in  the  city,  where  fome 
wealthy  citizens  were  difcuffing  a  fubje£t  not  entire- 
ly unconnected  with  cafh  concerns,  one  of  them 
obferving  him  rather  attentive  to  their  converfation, 
turned  to  him,  and  faid,  "  What  is  your  opinion, 
Sir,  of  the  matter  ?" — "  's  blood,  Sir  !"  returned 
he,  peevilhly,  "  what  opinion  can  a  man  have 
in  this  country,  who  has  not  a  guinea  in  his 
pocket  ?" 


JOURNEY  TO  BRUGES,  ^V 

Under  the  influence  of  all  the  various  caprice* 
infpired  by  this  unhappy  purfe-pride,  I  am  iorry 
to  lay  our  countrymen  do,  when  they  go  abroad,. 
fo  play  the  fool,  that  they  are  univerially  flattered 
and  delpifed,  pillaged  and  laughed  at,  by  all  per- 
ions  with  whom  they  have  any  dealing.  In  France, 
Mi  Lor  Anglois  is,  or  at  leaft  was,  to  have  fix 
times  as  great  a  profufion  of  every  thing  as  any 
other  perlon,  and  pay  three  hundred  per  cent* 
more  for  it  ;  and  the  word  of  it  was,  that  a  Mi 
Lor  was  found  fo  conducive  to  their  intereft,  that 
they  would  not,  if  they  could  help  it,  iuffer  any 
Englifhman  to  go  without  a  title — nay,  would 
iometimes,  with  kindly  compulfion,  force  him  to 
accept  of  it,  whether  he  would  or  not  :  but  if  an 
Englishman  be,  above  all  others,  the  obje£t  of  im- 
position in  foreign  countries,  certainly  none  pillage 
him  fo  unmercifully  as  his  own  countrymen  who 
are  fettled  there.  In  all  the  places  through  which 
I  have  travelled,  I  have  had  occafion  to  remark 
(and  the  remark  has  been  amply  verified  by  every 
gentleman  I  have  ever  converled  with  on  the  fub- 
je&),  and  the  mod  extravagant  houfes  of  entertain^ 
ment  are  thole  kept  by  Englifhmen.  At  Oftend, 
as  well  as  other  places,  it  was  fo  ;  therefore,  as 
economy,  when  it  does  not  trefpafs  upon  the  bounds 
of  genteel  liberality,  is  the  belt  fecurity  for  happi- 
nels  and  reipett,  I  advife  you,  whenever  you  fh.all 
have  occafion  to  vilit  the  Continent,  in-  the  firfk 
place  to  avoid  all  appearance  of  the  purfe-proud 
oftentation  of  John  Bull  ',  and,  in  the  next  place, 
to  avoid  all  Englifh  houfes  of  entertainment. 

It  is  a  fingular  circumftance,  and  belongs,  I 
fhould  fuppole,  peculiarly  to  Oftend,  that  the 
charity-children  of  the  town  are  permitted  to  come 
on  board  the  vefiels  arrived,  to  beg  of  the  paffen- 
geiSj  one  day  in  the  wewk, 


32  JOURN'EY  TO  BRUGES. 

Before  I  bid  adieu  to  Oflend,  I  mult  reirfark  or^ 
heavy  di;adv3ntage.  under  which  it  labouis — the 
want  of  frefh  water  ;  ail  they  ufe  being  brought 
from  Brugc?.  In  going  from  Oftend  to  Bruges,  a 
traveller  has  it  in  his  choice  to  go  by  land,  or  water 
—If  by  land,  he  gets  a  good  voiture  for  about  ten 
fniliings  of  our  money  -fc  the  road  is  about  fourteen 
or  fifteen  miles — If  by  water  [the  mode  which  I 
adopted,  as  by  far  the  cheapen:  and  pleafanteft),  he 
travels  in  a  veiTel  pretty  much  re:etr,bling  our  Lord 
Miyor's  barge,  lomctimes  called  a  track  !chuyt,  but 
often  la  barcjue,  or  barke  :  it  is,  in  truth,  fitted  up 
in  a  ftyle  of  great  neat  nefs,  if  not  eiegince  ;  ftored 
with  a  large  Itock  of  provisions  and  refreshments  of 
all  kinds,  and  of  fupeiior  quality,  fur  the  accom- 
modation of  the  pafi'engcrs;  and  has,  particulai 
a  very  handfomc  private  room  between  decks,  for 
the  company  to  retire  to,  in  order  to  drink  I 
coffee,  &c.  &c.  or  play  at  cards.  In  this  comforta- 
ble, I  might  lay,  delightful  vehicle,  as  perfectly  at 
eaie  as  lying  on  a  couch  in  the  belt  room  in  Lon- 
don, ate  pailengers  drawn  by  two  holies,  at  ths 
rate  of  about  four  miles  an  hour,  for  about  ten 
pence,  the  lame  length-  of  way  that  it  would  co;"h 
fen  (hillings  to  be  tumbled  in  a  voiiure  over  a  rou-sh 
paved  road. 

The  country  between  O.lend  and  Bruges  is  ver/ 
level,  and  of  ccurie  dellitute  c  f  tho:'e  c.iaims  to  a 
mind  of  taffce,  which  abound  in  countries  tolled  by 
the  hand  of  Nature  into  hill,  dale,  mountain,  and 
valley  :  the  whole  face  of  it,  however,  is,  or  at  leatt 
then  was,  in  io  h:gh  a  date  of  cultivation,  and  fo 
deeply  enriched  by  the  hands  of  art  aod  induftiy, 
aided  by  the  natural  fertility  of  the  (oil,  thai  its 
appearance,  though  far  from  flriking  or  clel'ightfu), 
uas  by  fio  means  unoltofarit  ;  and  on  app: 
the  town  of  Bruges,    wc  panc-d    bet  wee:.  -w*3 

of  irtes.  beautiful,  iliadvj  and  of  Ic;  —form- 


JOURNEY  TO  BRUGES.  33 

jng,  with  the  (unrounding  objefls,  a  fcene,  which, 
if  not  romantic,  was  at  leaft  pi£turelque.. 

In  pauing  through  countries  groaning  beneath 
the  defpotic  fcourge  of  unlimited  monarchy,  where 
fubfidies  are  raifed,  and  taxes  laid  on  ad  libitum— 
where  guilty  diftrufl  and  fuipicion,  with  the  eyes 
of  a  lynx  and  the  fangs  of  a-  harpy,  (land  fentineLs 
at  every  gate,  to  fcrutinize  the  harmlels  paflfenger, 
awake  him  to  the  clanks  of  his  fetters,  and  awe 
him  into  compliance,  a  free-born  Briton  feels  a  cold 
horror  creep  through  his  whole  frame  :  his  foul 
recoils  at  the  gloomy  ferocious  and  infolently  drift 
examination,  with  which  a  centinel,  at  the  entry 
of  a  town,  flops,  inveftigates,  demands  a  paffport  ; 
and,  in  flaort,  puts  him,  pro  tempare,  in  a  ftate  of 
durance,  with  all  its  hideous  formalities  and  appen- 
dages, its  gates,  its  bars,  its  armed  ruffiins,  its  for- 
mal profetlions  of  laws,  and  its  wtter  violation  of 
reafon  and  of  juftice.  Entering  the  town  of  Bru- 
ges, We  were  (topped  by  a  centinel,  who,  with  all 
the  faucy,  lwaggenng  air  of  authority,  of  a  (lave  in 
office,  demanded  to  know,  whether  we  had  any- 
contraband  goods  ?  whether  we  were  in  any  mili- 
ry  capacity  ?  whence  we  came  ?  and  whither  we 
were  going  ?  with  a  variety  of  other  interrogato- 
ries, to  my  mind  equally  impertinent  and  deteflable, 
but  which  feemed  to  make  no  greater  impreffion  on 
thv;  good  Flemings  themfelves,  than  demanding  the 
toll  at  a  turnpike-gate  would  make  on  an  Englifh 
waggoner. 

Talking  over  this  fubjeft,  fincethat  time,  with  a 
gentleman  who  is  well  acquainted  with  all  thofe 
places,  he  informed  me,  that  in  the  war  between 
the  Emperor  and.  the  States  General,  fome  French 
officers,  travelling  through  Flanders  to  join  Count 
Maillebois,  were  flopped  at  the  gate  of  Bruges^ 
and,  by  order  of  the  Emperor,  fent  to  his  army, 
turned  into  the  ranks,  and   obliged  to  do  duty  is 


34  DESCRIPTION  OF  BRUGES. 

common  foldiers. — Here,  my  dear  Frederick, 
was  an  aft,  not  only  defpotic  in  itirlf,  hut  aggrava- 
ted by  circumftances  of  collateral  profligacy,  of  luch 
enormous  magnitude,  as  bids  defiance  to  all  powe*r 
of  amplification,  and  leave  eloquence  hopelcfs  of 
defcribing  it  with  greater  fnvce  than  it  derives  from- 
a  iimple  narration  of  the  fa£i  :  on  the  one  hand, 
the  inroad  upon  the  juft  perfonal  fights  of  the  in- 
dividual ;  on  the  other,  the  rights  of  a  nation  vio- 
lated. Some  men  in  England,  jiclging  fiom  their 
own  constitutional  i'ecurity,  •  may  d'fbslieve  the 
fact  :  but  let  them  confrier,  that  the  CTar.Mifl  de  fa 
Fayette,  an  alien,  taken  upon  neutral  gio^ind,  is 
tabW)  even  now,  held  in  ilftgat,  'Unj;.rt  ihraluorh, 
and  pei  locution — let  them,  1  lay,  •  remember  this, 
-and  let  their  incredulity  ceaie. 

-  Blefs  your  ftars,  my  denr  boy,  that  you  were  horh 
in  a  country  where  luch  outrages  as  thele  can  neveV 
•i>e  perpetrated  by  any,  and  will  never  be  approved 
«t  but  by-  a  few. 


LETTER    VI. 


T 

IN  my  laft,  I  carried  you  pad  a  ferocious, 
impertinent  ientinel,  into  the  town  of  Bruges  ;  and 
now,  having  got  you  there,  I  mull  endeavour,  from 
the  loole  materials  I  have  been  able  to  collect,  to 
g've  you  a  fnbrt  delcription  of  it. 

I  had  heard  much  of  Bruges,  its  grandeur,  and 
its  opulence;  you  will  guels  my  imprife  then, 
when,  on  entering  it,  I  found  nothing  but  an  oid- 
falhioried,  ill-built,  irregular  town  ;  the  (beets,  in 
general,  naVrow  3nd  dirty,  and  moll  of  the  houieji 
iUon^ly  expieifivt  cf  poverty  and  lu^ualid  wie: 


DESCRIPTION  OF  BRUGES.  35 

ednefs;   yet   this   was  anciently  a  moft .. flourishing 
city.      Did  the  difference  between  the  town  at  this 
time,  and  its  Ra'c  as  it  is  reptcfented  of  old,,  con  fill 
only  in  its  external  appearance,   we    might    readily 
account    Tor  that,   in   the  great  improvements  mace 
by    the   moderns  in  the  art  of  houle-building  ;  but 
its  pielent  inferiority  goes  deeper,  and  is  the  re.ult 
of  departed  commerce— commeiee.   that  fluctuating  . 
\vill-wiih-a-wifp,   that    leads    dates    in    hot    purfuit 
after    it,   to   entrap    them   ultimately  into  miies  a-d 
precipices,   and    which,   when    caught,    flays   till   it 
ex'inguifhes   the    fpirit   of  freedom  in  a  ration,  re- 
fines   its  people  into  feeble  (laves,  ana  there  leaves 
thtm  to  poverty  and  contempt. 

Perhaps  there  is  no  lubject  that  affords  an  ampler 
field  for  a  fpeculative  mmd  to  expatiate  npen,   than 
the    various,   and,.  I    may    lav,   incongruous  revolu- 
tions which  have  chequered  the  piogrtis  of  human 
fociety   from    the    firft    records  of   hiftory  dov.  n  to 
the  prefent  time.      It  is  indeed  a  lp  emulation  which 
•not  only  tends  to   improve    the    underftancm.g,   by 
calling   in   experiei.ee    to    correct    the    uiufioru>    of 
theory,  but  is  highly  initiuftive  in  a  moral  point  of 
view,   by    pointing    out.   the    in  (lability  ,cf  the  very 
heft  Iln'ctures  of  human    viidom.   arid    teaching    us 
how    little    reliance    is   to    be    placed    upon  humaa  , 
cilualties,  or  earthly  contingencies.    Look  to  Gieece, 
ore     the  i\  untain-heaci  of  arts,  eloquence,  ano  lear- 
ning,  ;md  the   mother  of  freedom — her  poets,   her 
legfluors   her    ioldiers,   and  her   patriots,    even    to 
this  dry  c<  r. fidered  the  b.i  ighleft  examples  of  c*rth- 
1^  g-ory  !--tee  her  no-w  lunk  in  flaveiy,  ignorance, 
h,   and    ir .reality,   below    any    petty    nation    of 
trope.      Lo .•  k  to  Uome—  in  her  turn,  the   queen 
of  arms  and  ans,   the  iand  of  liberty,  the  nurle  of 
he.  e   ftage  on  which  inflexible  patriots,  ac- 

complied    philofcphers,  and  a  free   people,  afted 
for  centuries  a  drama  that  elevated  man  alraoft  above 


36         DESCRIPTION  OF  BRUGES. 

his  natur-  !— fee  her  now  reduced  to  the  lafl  fiage 
of  contempubility— even  below  it,  to  ridicule  and 
laughter — Ivvayed  by  the  mod  contemptible  impof- 
ture,  and  lunk.  into  the  mcft  defpicabie  enleve- 
ment, both  of  perfon  and  opinion---the  offices  of 
her  glorious  fenate  performed  by  a  kind  of  hetero- 
clite  being,  an  hermaphroditical  impofture,  who, 
deducing  his  right  "from  the  very  dregs  and  offscour- 
ings of  fuperftition  and  fanaticifm,  and  aided  by  a 
fet  of  diiciples  woithy  of  iuch  a  matter,  rules  the 
people,  not  with  the  terrors  of  the  Tarpeian 
rock,  nor  yet  with  that  wh;ch  to  a  Roman  bo- 
fom  was  more  terrible,  banifhment— but  with  the 
horrors  of  tternal  damnation  ! — lee  her  valiant,  vi- 
gorous foldiery  convened  into  a  band  of  feeble  fid— 
lers  and  mufic-mafters,  and  the  clangor  of  her  arms 
into  fhrill  conceits  of  fqueakirg  caflratoes ;  thofe 
places  where  her  Cicero  poured  forth  eloquence 
divine,  and  pointed  out  the  paths  that  led  to  true 
morality---where  her  Brutus  and  her  Cato  mar- 
fhallcd  the  forces  of  freedom,  and  raifed  the  arm 
of  juftrtJe  againft  tyrants,  over-Tun  by  a  knavifh 
hoft  of  ignorant,  beggarly,  bald-pated  friars,  vomi- 
tirg,  to  a  crowd  of  gaping  bigots,  torrents  of 
fanatical  bombaft,  of  miracles  never  performed,  of 
gods  made  of  weed  or  copper,  and  of  faints,  that, 
like  themfelves,  lived  by  impoiture  and  deception  !  - 
—fee  her  triumphs  and  military  trophies  charged 
into  pncf{T:ons  of  piiefts  fmging  plalms  round  wa- 
fers and  wooden  crucifixes  ;  and  the  code  of  Fhilo- 
fophy  and  religion,  which  operated  fo  efTe&ually  up- 
on the  morols  of  her  people  that  there  was  rone 
among  them  found  fo  defperate  or  fo  bale  as.  to 
break  an  oath,  exchanged   for  the  Roman  Catholic 

blanch   of  the    Chriftian  Faith for    dilpenlaticns 

f  or  inceft,  indulgences  for  murder,  fines  for 
fornication,  and  an  exclufive  patent  for  adultery  in 
their   priefthood.     Then   look    to   England !— fee 


DESCRIPTION1  OF  BRUGES.         37 

h«r,  who  or.ce  (looped  beneath  the  yoke  of  Rome, 
whofe  chief.  Caractacus,  was  carried  therein 
chains  to  grace  his  conqueror's  triumphs,  while 
irerfelf  was  made  the  meaneft  of  the  Roman  pro- 
vinces, now  holding  the* balance  of  the  world,  the 
unrivalled  miftiefs  of  arms,  arts,  commeice — every 
thing. 

It  was  in  this  irrefiftible  mutation  of  things,  that 
Bruges  funk  from  the  high  ftate  of  a  molt  flounfh- 
ing  city,  where  there  are  ft  ill  (unlels  the  French 
have  deftroyed  them)  to  be  ieen  the  remains  of  fe- 
venteen  palaces,  anciently  the  refidences  ot  confuls 
of  different  nations,  each  of  which  had  diftinft 
houfes,  magnificently  built  and  furnifhed,  with 
warehoufes  for  their  meichandiies  :  and  fuch  was 
the  power  and  wealth  ef  the  citizens  in  thole  days, 
that  it  is  an  indubi'able  f?£t,  they  kept  their  fove- 
reign,  the  Archduke  Maximilian,  priloner,  af- 
fronted his  leivants,  and  abuied  his  officers  ;  nor 
Would  they  releale.  him  until  he  took  an  oath  to 
pieferve  inviolate  the  laws  of  the  ftate.  Even  fo 
late  as  the  tine  I  was  there,  Biuges  had  iome  trade 
—  indeed  as  g(rod  a  foreign  trade  as  mod  cities  in 
Fi^ndeis.  The  people  teemed  cheeiful  and  happy, 
and  the  markets  v  ere  tolerably  jupplied. 

Several  fine   canals  run  in  a  variety  of  dire ft'ons 
f  mm  Bruges  :   by  one  of  them,  boats  can  go,   in  the 
courle  of  a    fuuriwer's   day,     to    Ofterd,   Neupert, 
Fumes,  aid  Duivkwk  ;  ard  viTels  of  four  hundred 
tuns  can  float  in  the   baion  of  this  town.     Anorher 
canal  leads  to  Ghent,  another  to  Damme,   and  ano- 
ther to    S!uy«.      The  water' of  thoie   corals   is  ftag- 
nan',   without  the    leaft>  motion  ;    yet  they  can,  in 
half    an     four,     be    all    emptied,     and   frefh  water 
brought  in,   by  means  of  their  well-contrived  flui- 
ces.     Tois  water,  however,  is  never  ufed  for  drink- 
ing,  or  even  for    culinary    purpofes  ;    a  better  fort 
being  conveyed  through  the  town  by  pipes  from  the 

D 


33  DESCRIPTION  OF  BRUGES. 

N 

two  rivers  Lys  and  Scheldt,  as  in  London  ;  for 
which,  as  there,   every  lioule  pays  a  certain  tax. 

Although  the  trade  of  this  city  has,  like,  that  of 
all  the  Low  Countries,  been  gradually  declining, 
and  daily  fucked  into  the  vortices  of  Britifh  and 
Dutch  commerce,  there  were,  till  the  French  en- 
tered it,  many  rich  merchants  there,  who  met  every 
day  at  noon  in  the  great  market-place,  to  communi- 
cate and  tranlacr,  bufmefs,  which  was  chiefly  done 
in  the  Flemifh  language,  hardly  any  one  in  it  l'peak- 
ing  French  ;  a  circumftance  that  by  this  time,  is 
much  altered — for  they  have  been  already  made,  if 
not  to  fpeak  French,  at  lead  to  fing  Ca-ira9  and 
dance  to  the  tune  of  it  too,  to  fome  purpofe. 

The  once-famed  grandeur  of  this  city  confified 
chiefly,  like  that  of  all  grand  places  in  the  dark 
periods  of  Popery,,  of  the  gloomy  piles,  the  often- 
tatious  frippery,  and  unwieldy  maffes  of  wealth, 
accumulated  by  a  long  feries  of  monkifh  impoflure 
— of  Gothic  flruftures,  of  enormous  fize  and  fable 
afpect.,  filled  with  dreary  cells,  calculated  to  flrike 
the  fouls  of  the  ignorant  and  enthufiaftic  with  holy 
horror,  to  inlpire  awe  of  the  places,  and  venera- 
tion for  the  per'ons  who  dared  to  inhabit  them, 
and,  by  enfeeblmg  the  reafon  with  the  mixed  ope- 
rations of  horror,  woncier,  and  reverence,  to  fit 
the  credulous  for  the  reception  of  every  impofi- 
tion,  however  grois  in  conception,  or  bungled  in 
execution.  Thofe  are  the  things  which  conftituted 
the  greatr.efs  and  Iplendoi  of  the  cities  of  ancient 
Chriffendom ;  to  thoie  V.as  the  f  urdiefl  human 
v.^cur  and  intellect,  been  forced  to  bend  the  kn^es : 
they  were  built  to  enduie  the  outrages  of  time; 
and  will  fhnd,  I  am  fure,  long,  long  after  their 
power  (hall  have  been  annihilated. 

What  a  powerful  engine  has  luperflition  been,  in 
the  cunning  management  of  priefts  !  How  lamenta- 
ble it  is  to  think,,  that  not  only  all  who  believed, 


DESCRIPTION  OF  BRUGES.        ^0 

but  all  who  had  good  fenfe  enough  not  to  believe 
fhould,   for  fo   many   centuries,   have  been  kept  in 
prcftrate  fubmiirion  to  the  will  and  dominion  of  an 
old  man  in  Rome  !  —  My  blufhes  for  the  folly  and 
fupinenefs  of  mankind,  however,  are  loft  in  a  war:n 
glow    of  tranfport   at  the  preient  irradiation  of  the 
human  mind  ;  and  though  1  can  icarcely  think  With 
patience    of  that    glorious,   godlike  being,    Henry 
the  Second  of  England,  being  obliged  by  the  Pope 
to  lath   himfelf  naked    at   the    tomb    of  that    laucy, 
wicked    prieft,  Thomas   a    Becket,    1    felicitate 
myfelf  with   the    rehVcton,   t liar   the    Pope  is  now 
the   mod   contemptible    lovereign   in     Europe,   and 
that  the  Papal  authority,   which  was  once    ih&    ter- 
ror and  the  Icouige  of  rlic  e-uh,  is    Row    not   only 
not  recognitcd,  but  feMdTfl  thought  of,   ahd,    \ 
thought    of,    only    letvcs   to    excite     iaughici     oi 
difguft, 


TETTER    VII. 


T 


HE  town  of  Bruges,  although  the 
flreets  be,  as  I  have  already  defer  ibed'  them,  io 
mean,  narrow,  dirty,  and  irregular  in  general,  con- 
tains, neverthelefs,  fome  few  Pireets  that  are  tolera- 
ble, and  a  few  fquares  alfo  that  are  far  from  con- 
temptible.— I  fhould  think  it,  neverthelefs,  not 
worth  another  letter  of  description,  were  it  not 
that  the  churches,  and  church-curiofuies,  demand 
our  attention  ;  for  you  will  observe,  that  in  all  rich 
Popifh  countries,  every  church  is  a  holy  toy-fhop, 
or  rather  a  mufeum,  where  pictures,  flatties,  gold 
cups,  irlver  candlefticks,  diamond  crucifixes,  and 
gods,  of  various  forts  and  dimenfions,  are  hoarded 


40         DESCRIPTION  OF  BRUGES. 

up,  in  honour  of  the  Supreme  Being.  This  city 
having  been  for  centuries  the  fee  of  a  bifhop,  who 
is  fufFragan  to  the  archbifnop  of  Mecklin,  and  at 
the  lame  time  hereditary  chancellor  of  Flanders,  it 
is  not  to  be  wondered  at,  if  ecclefiaftical  induftry 
fhould  have  amailed  fome  of  thole  little  trinkets 
which  ccnftitute  the  chief  or  only  value  of  their 
church.  The  mitre  of  this  place  conveys  to  the 
head  that  wears  it  a  diocele  containing  fix  cities, 
from  the  names  of  which  you  will  be  able  to  form 
fome  lraall  judgment  of  the  opulence  of  one  poor 
fon  of  abftinence  and  mortification. — Thoie  cities 
are,  in  the  fir  ft  place,  Bruges  itfelf,  then  Ofiend, 
Sluys,  Damme,  Middleburgh  in  Flanders,  and 
Oudenbeich — not  to  mention  one  hundred  and 
thirty-three  boroughs  and  villages;  and  if  you 
could  compute  the  number  of  inferior  clergy  with 
which  the  ftreets  and  highways  aie  filled,  you 
would  be  thunclerflruck.  There,  and  in  all  thuie 
Popifh  countries,  they  may  be  leen,  with  giotelque 
habits  asd  bald  pates,  buzzing  up  and  down  hke 
bees,  in  fwarms,  (a  precious  hive  !) — and,  with 
the* mod  vehement  proteflations  of  voluntary  po- 
verty in  their  mouths,  and  e\es  uplifted  to  Hea- 
ven, Icianibiirg  for  the  good  things  of  the  earth 
with  the  eag.niels  of  a  pack  of  hounds,  and  the 
rapacity  of  a  whole  roll  of  lawyers!  With  loaqexl 
thighs  (I  might  lay,  loaded  arms  too,  for  they  have 
la  ge  pockets  even  in  their  fleeves,  for  the  conceal- 
ment of  moveables),  they  return  to  the  great  hive, 
where,  contrary  to  the  law  of  bees,  the  dione  lives 
in  idle  (late,  and  he  plunders  them  :  contrary,  too, 
to  the  habits  of  thoie  ufeful  infe&s,"  they  banifh  the 
queen-bee,  and  fufTer  no  female  to  approach  their 
cells,  but  keep  them  in  contiguous  hives,  where, 
under  cover  of  the  night,  they  vifit  them,  and  ful- 
fil in  private  that  which  they  deny  in  public — the 
great  command  of  Providence* 


DESCRIPTION  OF  BRUGES.  4* 

The  fir  ft  building  in  nominal  rank,  though  by 
no  means  the  firft  in  value,  is  the  great  cathedra!, 
which  has  at  lead  bulk,  antiquity,  and  gloomineis 
enough  to  recommend  it  to  the  faithful.  It  is  by 
no  means  unfurnifhed  within,  though  not  in  io  re- 
markable a  manner  as  to  induce  me  to  fill  a  letter 
with  it.  In  a  word,  it  is  an  old  Popifh  cathedral, 
and  cannot  be  fuppofed  wanting  in  wealth  :  at  the 
time  I  write,  it  has  been  {landing  no  lets  a  time 
than  nine  hundred  and  twenty-nine  years,  having 
been  built  in  the  year  865. 

The  next  that  occurs  to  me,  as  worthy  of  notice, 
is  the  church  of  Notre  Dame,  or  that  dedicated  to 
our  Lady  the  Virgin  Mary.  This  is  really  a  beau- 
tiful flruclure  of  the  kind — indeed  magnificent. 
Its  fleeple  is  beyond  conception  ftupendous,  being 
fo  very  high  as  to  be  feen  at  lea  off  Oflend,  al- 
though it  is  not  elevated  in  the  imallefr  degree  by 
any  rife  in  the  ground  :  for,  fo  very  flat  is  the 
Whole  intermediate  country,  that  I  believe  it  would 
puzzle  a  fkilful  leveller  to  find  two  feet  elevation 
from  high-water-ma; k  at  Odend  up  to  this  city. 
The  contents  of  this  church  are  conefpondenl  to 
its  external  appearance — being  enriched  and  beau- 
tified with  a  vail  variety  of  iacerdotal  trinkets,  and 
fine  tombs  and  monuments.  As  to  the  former,  the 
veftments  of  that  lame  Thomas  a  Becket  whom 
I  mentioned  in  my  laft,  make  a  part  of  the  cuiiofi- 
ties  depouted  in  this  church  :  this  furious  and  in- 
flexible impoflor  was  archbifbop  of  Canterbury  ; 
and  his  flruggles  to  en  {lave  both  the  king  and  peo- 
ple of  England,  an"d  make  them  tributary  to  the 
Pope,  have  canonized  him,  and  obtained  the  very 
honourable  depot  I  mention  for  his  veftments.  To 
dojuftice,  however,  to  the  fpirit  and  fagaciiy  of 
the  holy  fathers  who  have  fo  long  taken  the  pains 
to  preserve  them,  it  mud  be  commemorated,  that 
they  are,  or  at  leafl  were   fet  with  diamonds,  and 

D   2 


42  DESCRIPTION  OF  BRUGES. 

other  precious  ftones  !  Probably,  among  the  many 
priefts  who  have,  in  (o  many  centuries,  had  the 
cuftody  of  thofe  divine  relics,  fome  one,  more  fa- 
£acious  than  the  reft,  might  conceive,  that,  to  lie 
in  a  church,  and  be  feen  by  the  all-believing  eyes 
of  the  faithful,  a  little  coloured  glais  was  juft  as 
good  as  any  precious  ftone,  and  wifely  have  con- 
verted the  originals  to  fome  better  purpofe.  If  fo, 
it  will  be  fome  coniolation  to  Holy  Mother  Church 
to  rtfle£t,  that  die  has  bilked  the  Sans -culottes,  who 
certain! v  have  got  poffeffton  of  Saint  Thomas  a 
Becket's  facerdotol  petticoats  ;  and,  if  thev  have 
been  found  enough  to  ftand  the  cutting,  have,  by 
this  time,  converted  them  into  comfortable  cam- 
paigning breeches.  O  monftroas  !  wicked  !  abo- 
minable ! — that  the  Reyal  Mary,  filler  to  the  great 
Emperor  Charles  the  Fifth,  fhould,  lo  long  ago 
as  the  Refoimaiion,  have  bought  at  an  immenie 
price,  and  depofited  in  the  treafury  of  the  church 
of  cur  Lady  the  bleffed  Virgin  Mary,  the  veft- 
men'.s  of  a  faint,  only  to  make  breeches,  in  the 
year  1794,  for  a  French  foldier  !  The  time  has 
been,  when  the  bare  fuggeftion  of  fuch  facrilege 
would  have  turned  the  brain  of  half  the  people 
of  Chrifteudom  :  but  thofe  things  are  now  better 
managed. 

Of  the  tombs  in  this  church,  I  fliall  only  mention 
two,  as  diQinguifhed  from  the  reft  by  their  coftlU 
nels,  magnificence,  and  antiquity.  They  are  made 
of  copper,  well  gilt.  Ohc  of  them  is  the  tomb  of 
Mary,  heirefs  to  the  Ducal  Houfe  of  Burgundy  ; 
and  the  other,  that  of  Charles  (commonly  called 
the  Hardy),    Duke  of   Burgundy,    h«r  faiher. 

In  B.uges  there  were  four  great  abbeys,  and  an 
amazing  number  of  convents  and  nunneries.  The 
buildings,  I  prefume,  yet  ftand  ;  but  there  is  little 
doubt  that  their  contents,  of  every  kind,  have  been, 


DESCRIPTION  OF  BRUGES.  4$ 

before  this,  put  in  requisition,  and  each  part  of  them, 
of  courfe,   applied  to  its  natural  ufe. 

The  cliutch  once  belonging  to  the  Jefuits,  is  buiU 
in  a  noble  (tyle  of  architecture  :  and  that  of  the  D.r- 
minicans  has  not  only  its  external  merits,  but  its 
internal  value  ;  for,  befidcs  the  ufual  fuperabun- 
dance  of  rich  chalices,  &c.  it  poffelTes  iome  very 
great  curiofities — 

As,  firft,  a  very  curious,  highly  wrought  pulpit 
— beautiful  in  itlelf,  but  remarkable  for  the  top  be- 
ing fupported  by  wood,  cut  out,  in  the  mod  natu- 
ral, deceptive  manner,  in  the  form  of  ropes,  and 
which  beguile  the  fpe£titor  the  more  into  a  belief 
cf  its  reality,  becaule  it  arvlwers  the  purpofes  of 
ropes. 

Secondly,  a  picture — and  fo  extraordinary  a  pic- 
ture !  Before  I  defcribe  it,  I  mult  apprifeyou  that 
your  faith  muft  be  almoffc  as  great  as  that  of  a  Spa- 
nifli  Chriltian  to  believe  me — to  believe  that  the 
human  intellect  ever  lunk  fo  low  as,  in  the  firft  in- 
fUnce,  to  conceive,  and,  in  the  next,  to  harbour 
and  admire,  fuch  a  piece.  But  I  miftakf — it  has 
i;s  merit  ;  it  is  a  curiohty---the  demon  of  iatire 
himfelf   could  not  wifh  for  a  greater. 

This  picture,  then,  is  the  reprefentation  of  a  mar- 
riage !--but  of  whom  ?  why,  truly,  of  Jesus 
Christ  with  Saint  Catharine  of  Sienna.  Ob- 
f~rve  the  congruity — Saint  Catharine  of  Sienna 
lived  many  centuries  after  the  tranflition  of  Jesus 
Chr  ist  to  Heaven,  where  he  is  to  (it,  you  know, 
till  he  comes  to  judge  the  quick  and  the  dead  ! — 
But  who  marries  them  ?  In  truth,  Saint  Dominic, 
the  pation  of  this  church  !  The  Virgin  Mary 
joins  their  hands — :hat  is  not  ami  Is — But,  to  crown 
the  whole,  King  David  himfelf,  who  died  fo 
long  before  Christ   was   born,  plays  the  harp   at 


44  DESCRIPTION  OF  BRUGES. 

My  dear  Frederick,  I  (hall  take  it  as  no  fmall 
iti fiance  of  your  dutiful  opinion  of  me  to  believe, 
that  fuch  a  picture  exilled,  ?nd  made  part  of  the 
holy  paraphernalia  of  a  temple  coniecrated  to  the 
worfnip  of  the  Divinity  :  but  I  allure  you  it  is  a 
faft  ;  and  as  I  have  never  given  you  reaion  to  fuf- 
pt  6t  my  veracity,  I  exneft  you  to  believe  me  in  this 
inftance,  improbable  though  it  feems  :  for  iuch  a 
fan-ago  of  abiurdities,  fucn  a  jumble  of  incongrui- 
ties, impoflibilities,  bulls,  and  tnachronii'ms,  never 
*yet  were  compreffed,  by  the  human  imagination, 
into  the  fame  narrow  compafs. 

I  protract  this  letter  bevond  my  ufual  length,  on 
purpole  to  conclude  my  account  of  Bruges,  and  get 
once  more  upon  the  road. 

The  monaflery  of  the  Carthufians,  another  order 
of  friars,  is  of  amazing  fize.  covering  an  extent  of 
ground  not  much  lefs  than  a  mile  in  circumference. 
The  Carmelites,  another  order,  have  a  church  here, 
in  which  there  is  raifed  a  beautiful  monument,  to 
the  memory  of  Henry  Jermyn,  Lord  Dover,  a 
peer  of  England — But  the  monaflery  called  the 
Dunes,  a  {eft  of  the  order  of  Saint  Bernard,  is 
by  far  the  noblefl  in  the  whole  city;  the  cloifters 
■and  gardens  are  capacious  and  handfome;  the  apart- 
ment of  the  abbot  is  magnificent  and  (lately,  and 
thofe  of  the  monks  themfelves  unufually  neat. 
Thofe  poor  mortified  penitents,  fecluded  from  the 
pomps,  the  vanities,  and  enjoyments  of  life,  and 
their  thoughts  no  doubt  re  fling  alcne  on  hereafter, 
keep,  nevertheless,  a  fumptuous  table,  fpread  with 
every  luxury  of  the  fcafon — have  their  country- 
feats,  where  they  go  a  hunting,  or  to  refrefh  them- 
felves, and  actually  keep  their  own  coaches. 

Among  the  nunneries  there  are  two  Englifh  : 
one  of  Auguftinian  nuns,  who  aie  all  ladies  of 
quality,  and  who  entertain  flrangers  at  the  giate  with 
fweet-meais  and  wine  j  the  other,  called  the  Pcli- 


PASSAGE  TO  GHENT.  AS 

cans,  is  of  a  very  drift  order,  and  wear  a  coatfe 
dreis. 

To  conclude — In  the  chapel  of  Saint  Basil  is 
faid  to  be  kept,  in  perfect  prefervation,  the  blood 
which  Joseph  of  Arimathea  wiped  off  with  a 
fponge  from  the  dead  body  of  Christ.  Finis 
coronat  opus, 

I  fancy  you  have,  by  this  time,  had  as  much  of 
miracles  as  you  can  well  digeft  :  I  therefore  leave 
you  to  reflect  upon  them  and  improve- 


LETTER    VIII. 


Jjli 


.S  I  was  going  to  the  barque,  at  Bruges', 
to  take  my  departure  for  Ghenr,  the  next  town  in 
my  route,  I  was  furpriied  to  fee  a  number  of  ofrp- 
cious,  bui'y,  poor  fellows,  crowding  round  my 
effects,  and  feizing  them— fome  my  trunk,  fome 
my  portmanteau,  &c.  1  believe  two  or  three  to 
each  :  but  my  aftonifhment  partly  lubfided  when  I 
was  told  that  they  were  porters,  who  plied  on  the 
canal,,  and  about  the  city,  for  fubfidence,  and  only 
came  to  have  the  honour  of  carraying  my  baggage 
down  to  the  veffel.  Noting  their  eagerneis.  1  could 
not  help  f tailing.  I  know  there  are  thoie,  and  i 
have  heard  of  iuch,  who  would  bluffer  at  them  : 
but  my  mirth  at  the  buttling  importance  which  the 
poor  fellows  affected,  foon  funk  into  ferious  con- 
cern ;  I  laid  within  mylelf,  "  Alas,  how  hard  tnuft 
be  your  lot  indee 1  !"  and  my  imagination  was  in 
an  inflant  back  again  in  London,  where  a  porter 
often  makes  you  pay  for  a  job,  not  in  money  only,. 
but  in  patience  alio,  and  where  the  furlinefs  of  in- 
dependence Icowis  upon  his  brow  as  he  does  you-i' 


46  PASSAGE  TO  GHENT. 

work.  Every  one  of  my  men  demanded  a  remu- 
neration for  his  labour  :  one  man  could  have  eafilv 
done  the  vvoik  of  ftve---but  I  refolveu  not  to  Tend 
them  away  discontented  :  he  is  but  a  fordid  churl 
that  would  ;  and  I  paid  them  to  their  full  fatisfac- 
tion.  Here,  my  dear  Frederick.,  let  me  offer 
you  (fince  it  occurs)  my  parental  advice  on  this 
point— from  the  practice  of  which  you  will  gain 
more  lolid  felicity  than  you  can  poflibly  be  aware 
of  now  :  never  weigh  IcrupulouHy  the  value  of  the 
work  of  the  poor  ;  rather  exceed  than  fall  fhort  of 
rewarding  it  :  it  is  a  very,  very  fmall  thing,  that 
will  put  them  in  good  humour  with  you  and  with 
themfelves,  and  relax  the  hard  furrows  of  labour 
into  die  ioit  fmile  of  gratitude—a  fmile  which,  to 
a  heart  of  fenfibility  luch  as  yours,  will,  of  itfeif, 
ten-thouiand-fold  repay  you,  even  though  the  fre- 
quent practice  of  it  fhould  abiidge  you  of  a  few  of 
thole  things  called  plealures,  or  detraft  a  little  from 
the  weight  of  your  puife. 

Being  again  feated  in  my  barque,  I  fet  off  for 
Ghent,  a  city  lying  at  a  diftance  of  twenty-four 
miles  from  Bruges.  I  mud  here  remark  to  you, 
that  the  companv  one  meets  in  thofe  vefiels  is  not 
alwavs  of  the  firft  rank;  it  is  generally  of  a  mixed, 
motley  kind  :  but  to  a  man  who  carries  along  with 
him,  through  his  navels,  a  love  for  his  fellow-crea- 
tures, and  a  defne  to  iee  men,  and  their  cuftoms 
and  manners,  it  is  both  plealant  and  eligible— -at 
lead  I  thought  it  [oy  and  enjoyed  it.  There  were 
thofe  amongil  us  who  fpoke  rather  loftily  on  that 
{abject  :  I  laid  nothing  ;  but  it  brought  to  my  mind 
a  reflection  1  have  often  had  occafion  to  concur  in, 
v.z.  that  a  faftidious  ufurpation  of  dignity  (happily 
denominated  Jiatdinefs)  is  the  never-fading  mark  of 
an  unftait  or  a  blockhead.  The  man  of  true  digni- 
ty, lelf-ereft  and  ffrong,  needs  not  have  recourie. 
fuv  fuppen,  to  the  comparative  wrctchedneis  of  his 


PASSAGE  TO  GHENT.  47 

fellow-creature,  or  plume  himrelf  upon  fpurious 
Superiority.  Yi>u  will  underftand  me,  however  ! 
When  I  fay,  ii  the  man  of  true  dignity,"  I  am  far, 
very  far,  from  meaning  a  lord,  a  iquire,  a  banker, 
or  a  general  officer---!  mean  a  man  of  intrinfic 
\vorth---homo  emun&se  naris---one  who,  in  every 
flation  into  which  chance  may  throw  him,  feels 
firm  in  the  conlcioufnels  of  right— -who  can  lee  and 
chenfh  merit,  ihough  enveloped  and  concealed  be- 
hind a  ihabby  iuit  of  cloihes— -and  who  fcorns  the 
biown-up  fool  of  fortune,  that  without  fenle  or  fen- 
timen1',  without  virtue,  wifdom,  or  courage,  pre- 
fumes  to  call  himlelf  great,  merely  becaule  he  pof- 
feifes  a  few  acres  of  earth  which  he  had  neither  the 
induftry  nor  merit  to  earn,  or  becaule  his  great- 
great-gteat-grandfather  purchafed  a  title  by  perfidy 
to  his  country,  the  plunder  of  his  fellow-citizens, 
or  the  {laughter  of  mankind. 

Although  the  face  of  that  part  of  the  country 
through  which  we  are  now  paffing,  like  that  of  the 
preceding  flage  from  O  fiend  to  Bruges,  wants  di- 
ve; fry,  it  has  its  charms,  and  would  be  particularly 
delightful  in  the  eye  of  an  Englifh  farmer  ;  for  it 
is  covered  with  the  thickeQ  verdure  on  each  fide 
of  the  canal,  and  the  banks  are  decoraied  all  along 
by  rows  of  flalely  trees,  while  the  fields  in  the 
back  ground  are  cultivated  to  the  higheft  degree  of 
perfection,  and  bear  the  afpett  of  producing  the 
mod  abundant  harveft. 

You  will  be  able  to  form  a  judgment  of  the  trif- 
ling expence  of  travelling  in  this  country,  from 
my  expences  in  this  ftage  of  twenty- four  miles. 
I  had  an  excellent  dinner  for  about  fifteen  pence  of 
cur  money  ;  my  paffage  cod  me  but  fixteen  more, 
amounting  in  all  to  two  {hillings  and  ieven  pence  : 
compare  that  with  travelling  in  England,  where 
one  cannot  rile  up   from  an  indifferent  dinner,  in 


<$  PASSAGE  TO  GHENT. 

^71  inn,  under  five   {"hillings  at  the  lead,   arid  you 
milft  be  aftoniflied  at  the  difproportion. 

Ghent  is  the  capital  of  Flanders,  and  is  to  be 
reckoned  among  the  largeft  cities  of  Europe,  as  it 
covers  a  fpace  of  ground  of  not  lefs  than  feven 
miles  in  circumference-,  but  there  is  not  above  one 
half  of  that  occupied  with  buildings,  the  greater 
part  being  thrown  into  fields,  gardens,  orchards, 
and  pleaiurc-grounds.  Situated  on  four  navigable 
rivets,  and  interic&ed  into  no  fewer  than  twenty- 
fix  iflands  by  a  number  of  canals,  which  afford  an 
eaiy.  cheap,  and  expeditious  carriage  for  weighty 
merchandize,  it  rmy  be  confiirred,  in  point  of 
local  advantages  for  commerce,  {uper.or  to  moft 
cities  in  Euiope;  while  thofe  iflands  are  again 
united  by  about  a  hundred  bi idge?.  fotne  great  and 
feme  ImaiJ,  which  contrbute  much  to  the  beauty 
cf  the  ciry. 

To  a  man  ace  ftomed  to  mould  his  thoughts  by 
what  he  fees  in  G  eat  Britain,  the  ftrorg  fortifica- 
tions that  fur  round  almoft  all  towns  on  the  Conti- 
nent convey  the  moft  ciiiagreeable  lenlations---ie- 
mindmg  him  of  the  firft  mifery  of  mankind,  War  ! 
---denoting,  alas  \  roo  truly,  the  dilpofiuon  of  man 
to  v.olae  the  r:ghts  of  his  fellow-creatures,  and 
manifefHng  the  tyrannous  abufe  of  power.  On 
n.  ,  though  trained  and  accuftomed  to  militaiy  ha- 
b.  s,  th;6  "  dreadful  note  of  preparation"  had  an 
i  ■  1>  afing  ehe£t  ;  for,  though  born,  bred,  and  ha- 
1  .iated  to  tie  life  of  a  foldier,  I  find  the  feelings 
of  the  citizen  and  the  man  claim  a  paramount  right 
l         y  heart. 

Ghent  was  once  extremely  well  fortified,  and 
calculated,  by  nature  as  well  as  by  art,  to  repel  en- 
croachment. It  had  a  very  ftrong  caftle,  walls, 
and  ditches  ;  and  now,  though  not  otherwile 
ftrong,  the  country  may,  by  (hutting  up  the  flui- 
eei>,  be,  for  above  a   mile   round,    laid  in   a   veiy 


PASSAGE  TO  GHENT.  49 

fhort  time  under  water.  It  was  formerly  fo  popu- 
lous and  powerful,  that  it  declared  war  more  than 
©nee  againfl  its  fovereign,  and  railed  amazing  ar- 
mies. In  the  year  1587,  it  luffered  dreadfully  from 
all  the  ravages  of  famine,  under  which  a  number 
not  lels  than  three  ihoufand  of  its  inhabitants  pe- 
rifhed  in  one  week. 

This  town  is  diitinguifhed  by  the  nativity  of  two 
celebrated  charu&eis  :  one  was  the  famous  Johm 
of  Gaunt,  ion  of  K-ng  Edward  the  third  of 
England;  the  other,  the  Emperor  Chari.es  the 
Fifth,  who  was  born  there  in  the  year  1500. 

It  was  in  this  city  that  the  Confedeiation  of  the 
Slates,  well  known  under  the  title  of  the  Pacifica- 
tion of  Ghent,  which  united  the  Provinces  in  the 
mod  lafting  union  of  in'ereft  and  laws,  was  held  : 
this  union  was  chiefly  owing  o  the  vigorous,  un- 
remitted tfforts  of  William  the  Firfl,  Prince  of 
Orange,  to  whofe  valour  and  virtue  may  be  attri- 
buted the  independence  of  the  United  States. 

In  this  city  there  were  computed  to  be  fiftv  com- 
panies of  tradefmen,  among  whom  weie  manufac- 
tured a  variety  of  very  cunous  and  rich  cloths,  ftuffs, 
and  filks  :  it  is  certain,  that  the  woollen  manufac- 
ture flouri{b?d  here  before  it  had  made  the  Jmalleit 
progrefs  in  England,  whole  wool  they  then  bought* 
There  was  alio  a  •  ood  branch  of  linen  manufacture 
here,  and  a  pretty  brifk  corn  trade,  for  which  it 
was  locally  well  calculated.  You  will  obferve, 
once  for  all,  ;ha<  in  ipeaking  of  this  country,  I 
generally  uie  the  pall  tenle  ;  for,  at  prefent,  they 
are  utterly  undone. 

Ghent  was  the  lee  of  a  bifhop,  who,  ]:ke  the 
bifhop  of  Bruges,  was  iuffragan  to  the  archbilhop 
of  Mechlin.  Thus,  in  moil  Chriflian  countries, 
ore  the  intellect,  the  consciences,  and  the  cafh  too, 
of  the  people,  fhut  up  and  hid  from  the  light,  by 
prieft  within  dean,  and  dean   within  bifhop — like 

E 


$0  PASSAGE  TO  GHENT. 

a  ring  in  the  hand  of  a  conjurer,  bc.x  within  box 
—till  at  laft  they  are  enveloped  in  the  great  lecep- 
tacle  of  all  deception,  the  capacious  packet  of  the 
archbilhop.  Let  not  fcepteied  tyrants,  their  legi- 
ons, their  fcaffolds,'  and  their  {words,  bear  all  the 
infamy  of  the  flavery  of  mankind  !  Opinion, 
opinion,  uncei  the  management  of  fraud  and  im- 
pofture,  is  the  engine  that  forges  their  fetters  !  ! — 
Jansenius,  from  whom  the  Janienifts  took  their 
name,  was  the  fir  ft  bifhep  of  this  place  ;  and  the 
late  bifhop,  I  think,  may  be  reckoned  the  laft. 

The  municipal  government  of  this  city  is  con  eel:, 
and  well  calculated  to  lecure  internal  peace  and  or- 
der. The  chief  magiftrate  is  the  high  bailiff;  fub- 
ordicate  to  whom  are  burgomafters,  echivins,  and 
counsellors. 

Ghent  is  not  deficient  in  ftately  edifices  ;  and, 
true  to  their  lyftcm,  the  holy  fathers  of  the  church 
have  their  (hare,  which,  in  old  Popifh  countries, 
is  at  leaft  nineteen  twentieths.  In  the  middle  of 
the  town  is  a  high  tower,  called  Belfort  tower  : 
from  whence  there  is  a  delightful  profpect  ovet  the 
whole  city  and  its  environs.  Monafteries  and 
churches,  there,  are  without  number  ;  befides  hof- 
pitais  and  maiket-places  :  that  called  Friday's  mar- 
ket, is  the  largeft  of  all,  and  is  adorned  with  a  fta- 
tue  of  Charles  the  Fifth,  in  his  imperial  robes. 
The  ftadthoule  is  a  magnificent  ftru£hne — So  is  the 
cathedral,  under  wh-ch  the  reverend  fathers  have 
built  a  lubtenaneous  church.  What  deeds  are  thofe 
which  (hun  the  1  ght  !  Why  thofe  holy  patriarchs 
have  iuch  a  defire  for  buiying  themlelvcs,  and 
working  kike  moles  under  ground,  they  themfelves 
be  ft  know,  and  1  trunk  it  is  not  difficult  for  others 
to  to  jecture. 

This  cathedral,  however,  is  well  worth  atten- 
tion. 01  accoun  of  Come  capital  pictures  it  contains. 
The  marble  of  the  chuich  is  remaikably  fine,  and 


JOURNEY  FROM  GHENT,  &c.        51 

ihe  altar-piece  fplendid  beyond  all  poffible  defcrip- 
tion  :  and,  indeed,  in  all  the  others,  there  are 
paintings,  eminent  for  their  own  excellence,  and 
for  the  celebrity  of  the  mailers  who  painted   them. 

In  the  mo  nailery  of  Sr.  Pierre,  there  is  a  grand 
library,  filled  with  bosks  in  all  languages  ;  but  it  is 
chiefly  remarkable  for  the  fuperlative  beauty  of 
its  ceiling,  one  half  of  which  vyas  painted  by  Ru- 
bens. 

Thus  you  may  perceive,  my  dear  Frederick, 
the  charity  of  the  clergy  ! — how,  in  pure  pity  for 
the  tins  of  nnnkind,  and  in  paternal  care  of  their 
fouls,  they  exa£l  from  the  laity  fome  atonement  for 
their  crimes,  and  conftrain  them  at  leail  to  repent 
— and,  with  unparakeie.l  magnanimity,  take 
themielvcs  the  vice,-),  the  gluttony,  the  ?. v. 
and  the  fenfuality,  of  which  they  aie  lo  caiefui  10 
purge  their  fellow-creatures. 


LETTER    IX. 


H 


.AVTNG  given  you  a  general  outline 
of  the  city  of  Ghent,  1  fhall  now  proceed  to  give 
you  an  account  of  one  of  the  mo  ft  excellent,  and 
certainly  the  moft  interefting,  of  all  the  curiofities 
in  that  place.  It  is  indeed  of  a  fort  lo  immediately 
correfpondent  to  the  moft  exalted  fenfations  of  hu- 
manity, and  fo  perfcclly  in  unilon  with  the  moft 
exquifitely  fenfible  chords  of  the  feeling  heart, 
thac  I  relblved  to  refcue  it  from  the  common 
lumber  of  the  place,  and  give  it  to  you  in  a  fiefh 
letter,  when  the  ideas  excited  by  my  former  might 
have  faded  away,  and  left  your  mind  more  clear  for 
the  reception  of  fuch  refined  imprefiiens. 


J2  JOURNEY  FROM 

On  one  of  the  many  bridges  in  Ghent  Hand  two 
large  brazen  images  of  a  father  and  fon,  who  ob- 
tained this  diftinguifhed  mark  of  the  admiration  of 
their  fellow-citizens  by  the  following  incidents  : 

Both  the  father  and   the   ion  were,   for   lome  of- 
fence   againft  the  Mate,  condemned  to  die.      Some 
favourable  ciicumftances  appearing  on   the    fide   of 
the  Ion,   he  was  granted  a  remiffion  of  his  fhare  of 
the    fentence,   upon    certain    provifions — in   (horr, 
he  was  offered    a    pardon,   on   the   mod  cruel    and 
barbarous  condition  that  ever  entered  into  the  mind 
of  even  monkifh  barbarity,   namely,   that  he  would 
become  the   executioner  of  his  father  !    He  at  fiiffc 
rclolufely  refuied  to    prelerve   his   life  by  means  :o 
fatal  and  deteftablc  :     This  is  not   to   be    wondered 
at  ;   for  I  hope,   for  the  honour  of  our  nature,    that 
there   are  but  few,   very  few    fons,   who  would  not 
have  fpurned,   with   abhorrence,    life    fuftained  on 
lit  ions    I©    horrid,     io   unnatural.        The    fon, 
>  ;gh  long   inflexible,   was  at  length  overcome  by 
tl  •  crari  and    entreaties  of  a    fond    father,    who  re- 
p  r     meti  'O  him,  at   all   events,    his  (the  father's) 
],;     v    >  forffi  red.   and  that  it  would  be  the  greatefi: 
t   »lTib  :  conlolaiion  to  h  m,   ar  his  la  ft  monents,   to 
tj    •  k      hat  in  nib  death  he  was  the  inftrument  of  his 
fo-i's   >  reservation.     The  youth  confen'ed  to  adopt 
the  homble  meani  of  recovering  his  l;fc  and  liber- 
ty   ;    he  lifted  the  axe  ;  but.    as  it  was  about  to  fall, 
h  <  ,  rin  iunk  nervelefs,  and  the  axe  dropped    from 
his  haau  !    Ha.\  he  as  many  lives  as  hairs,  he  would 
have  yielded  them  all,    one  after  the   other,   rather 
than    again    even   conceive,   much    lefs    perpetrate, 
fuch  an  a&.      L.fe.    liberty,    every  thing,    vanifhed 
before  the    dearer    in'ereils  of  filial    affection  :    he 
fell  upon    his   father's  neck,    and,    embracing  him, 
triumphantly  exclii.ned,    ii  My  father,   my  father  I 
we  will  die    together  !*'   and   then  called    for    ano- 
ther cxjcxiouer  to  fuini  the  fentence  of  the  law. 


GHENT  TO  BRUSSELS.  S$ 

Hard  muft  be  their  hearts  indeed,  bereft  of  eve-* 
ry  fentiment  of  virtue,  every  fenfation  of  huma- 
nity, who  could  (land  infenfible  Spectators  of  Such, 
a  fcene — A  Sudden  peal  of  involuntary  applaufes, 
mixed  with  groans  and  fighs,  rent  the  air.  The 
execution  was  fufpended  ;  and  on  a  Simple  repre- 
sentation of  the  tranSactJon,  both  were  pardoned  : 
high  rewards  and  honours  were  conferred  on  the 
fon  ;  and  finally,  thole  two  admirable  brazen  ima- 
ges were  raifed,  to  commemorate  a  tranSa£lion  fo 
honourable  to  human  nature,  and  tranfmit  it  for 
the  inftru&ion  and  emulation  of  pofterity.  The 
flatue  reprefents  the  Ion  in  the  very  a£l  of  letting 
fall  the  axe. 

Lay  this  to  your  mind,  my  dear  Frederick  : 
talk  over  it  to  your  brother  ;  indulge  all  the  charm- 
ing Sympathetic  fenfalions  it  communicates  :  never 
let  a  mi'laken  fhame,  or  a  falfe  idea  (which  fome 
endeavour  to  imprefs)  that  it  is  unmaniy  to  melt  at 
the  tale  of  wo©,  and  Sympathize  with  our  fellow- 
creatures,  flop  the  current  of  your  fenfibility — no  ! 
Be  affured,  that,  on  the  contrary,  it  is  the  true 
criterion  of  manhood  and  valour  to  feel  ;  and  that 
the  more  Sympathetic  and  fenfible  the  heart  is,  the 
more  nearly  it  is  allied  to. the  Divinity. 

I  am  now  on  the  point  of  conducting  you  out  of 
Auftrian  Flanders — One  town  only,  and  that  com- 
paratively a  Small  one,  lying  between  Us  and  Bra- 
bant :  the  name  of  this  town  is  Aloft,  or,  as  the 
Flemings  Spell  it,   A  el  ft. 

From  Ghent  to  Bruflels  (the  next  great  ftage  in 
my  way),  I  found,  to  my  regret,  that  there  was  no 
conveyance  by  water  :  I  therefore  was  obliged  to 
go  in  a  voiture,  and  ftopt  at  Aloft,  as  an  interme- 
diate ftage  ;  ltd  mathematically  intermediate  it  is— 
for  it  lies  at  equal  diftance  from  Ghent  and  Bsuffels, 
being  exactly  fifteen  miles  from  each, 

E  2 


54       JOURNEY  FROM  GHENT,  &c. 

This  is  a  fmall,  but  exceeding  neat  (own,  fituated 
on  the  river  Dender  •,  and  being  a  remarkably  great 
thoroughfare  accommodations  of  every  kind  are  to- 
lerably good  in  it.  It  would  be  idle  to  fuppofe, 
that  Catholic  zeal  had  left  lo  many  fouls  unprotected 
and  undlfciplined,  where  there  were  fo  many  bo- 
dies capable  of  diudgery  to  pay  for  it.  In  truth, 
there  has  been  as  ample  provifion  made  for  the 
town  of  Aloft  in  the  way  of  facerdotal  bufi'nefs,  as 
for  any  other  town  in  the  Netherlands — regard  be- 
ing had  to  its  bulk  ;  for  there  were  feveral  convents 
of  friars,  and  of  courfe  feveral  of  nurvs  :  befides, 
there  was  a  Jefuit's  college  of  fome  note.  How 
they  all  Fare  by  this  time,  it  is  difficult  for  me  to 
determine. 

The  church  of  Saint  Martin  could  boaft  oF 
fome  excellent  pictures,  particularly  a  moft  capital 
piece,    li  La  Prfte,"  by  Rubens, 

In  a  convent  inhabited  by  a  let  of  monks,,  deno- 
mined  Gulielmite,  I  faw  the  tomb  of  Thierry 
Martin,  whofirft  brought  the  art  of  printing  from 
Germany  to  that  place.  His  name  and  fame  are 
tranfmitted  to  us  by  an  epitaph  upon  his  tomb, 
written  by  his  friend,   the  ingenious  Erafmus. 

This  tomb  of  Thierry  Martin  (lands  a  mon- 
ument, not  only  of  his  merit,  but  of  the  fhort- 
fightednefs  and  folly  even  of  monks.  Alas,  filly- 
men  !  they  little  knew,  that  when  they  granted 
Thierry  Martin  the  honours  of  the  convent, 
they  were  harbouiing,  in  their  hallowed  ground, 
one  of  their  greateft  enemies,  and  commemorating 
the  man  who  was  contributing  to  the  overthrow  of 
their  iacred  order  :  for  the  art  of  printing,  where- 
ever  it  reached,  illuminated  the  human  mind,  and 
fir  ft  kindled  up  that  light,  before  which  prieftcraft, 
and  all  its  pious  impoftures,  like  evil  fpectres,  have 
vanifhed.  To  the  art  of  printing  is  human  fociety 
indebted  for  many  of  the  advantages  which  it  pof- 


REVIEW  OF  AUSTRIAN  FLANDERS.  $S 

feffes  beyond  the  brute  or  favage  tribes — for  the 
perfection  of  arts,  the  extension  of  fcience,  the 
general  enlargement  of  the  mind,  and,  above  all, 
for  the  emancipation  of  perlon  and  property  from 
the  ihackles  of  defpotifm,  and  of  the  human  in- 
tellect from  the  fetters  of  Mine* eft  and  ignorance 
with  which  facerdotal  fraud  had  chained  it  for  cen- 
turies to  the  earth. 

The  territory  of  this  city  is  of  pretty  large  ex- 
tent, and  is  called  a  county,  having,  in  ancient 
times,  had  counts  of  its  own  ;  and  the  whole  of  it 
is  extremely  fruitful  in  pafture,  corn,  hops,  flax, 
and  mod  other  productions  of  thole  climes. 

I  made  but  a  very  fhort  flay  at  Aloft,  when  I 
proceeded  on  to  Bruflels  \  and,  having  thus  brought 
you  through  that  part  of  the  Netherlands  called 
Auftrian  Flanders,  I  think  I  ought  to  giv*e  you  a 
general  account  of  the  country  at  large,  as  I  have 
hitherto  confined  myfelf  merely  to  the  cities  and 
towns  of  it ;  but  as  this  letter  is  already  of  a  length 
that  will  not  allow  of  any  great  addition,  I  fhail 
poftpone  my  intended  description  to  my  next. 


LETTER    X. 


W 


ERE  mankind  to  be  guided  by  mo- 
deration, reafon,  and  juftice — were  there  no  luft 
for  territory  in  particular  dates — no  ambition  or 
defire  in  kings  for  an  undue  enlargement  of  their 
power — no  unjuftinable  infractions  attempted  by 
one  ftate  or  potentate  upon  the  peace  and  poflef- 
iion  of  another — no  armies  to  carry  defolaiion  and 
plunder  through  the  world,  nor  churchmen  more 
mild,  but  not  more  moderate,  to  drain  them  with 


56  REVIEW  OF  AUSTRIAN  FLANDERS, 

their  fub'le  deceptions — were  the  hufbandman,  the 
fifherman,  the  manufacturer,  and  the  labourer,  per- 
mitted io  make,  by  their  induftry,  the  beft  ule  of 
the  {oil  on  which  chance  or  nature  had  planted 
them,  and  to  Hit  the  fruits  of  their  labour  to  their 
own  lips — no  peo/'e  were  more  happy  than  the 
inhabitants  of  Auftrian  Fianders. 

This  country  is  bounded,  to  the  north,  by  the 
Scheldt ;  to  the  north-weft,  by  the  Northern  Sea  : 
to  the  fouth,  and  louth-weft,  by  Artois,  one  of  the 
fined  Provinces  of  France;  and  to  the  call,  by 
Brabant.  Its  greateft  length  is  leventy-five  miles  j 
and  its  greateit  breadth,  fifty-Eve.  The  air  is 
good  ;  but  it  is  faid  to  be  better  in  proportion  as  it 
recedes  from  the  (ea.  The  winters  are  fometimes 
long  and  fevere,  and  the  fumrners  iometimes  wet 
and  fultry  ;  yet,  in  general,  the  climate  is  agreea- 
ble. The  foil  is  in  moft  parts  fertils,  and  in  fome 
to  a  degree  equal  to  that  of  any  part  of  Europe. 
It  is  chiefiy  famous  for  its  paMurage  ;  in  confe- 
rence of  which,  great  numbers  of  black  cattle, 
hories  and  fheep,  are  bred  in  it,  and  immenfe  quan- 
tities of  butter  and  cheefe  made.  It  is,  befides, 
abundantly  productive  of  all  forts  of  culinary  vege- 
tables— fruit  in  great  quantities — corn  and  flax, 
which  laft  is  not  only  railed  in  great  plenty,  but  is 
celebrated  for  the  hnenefs  and  ftrength  of  its  flaple. 
It  is  true,  that  in  fome  parts  they  have  not  corn 
fufficient  for  the  inhabitants  :  but  this  is  well  re- 
compenfed  by  other  productions,  with  the  redun- 
dance of  which  they  purchafe  the  fupeifiuous  grain 
of  their  neighbours — for,  where  the  inhabitants  do 
follow  tillage,  the  produce  is  unequalled,  and  the 
luperfluuy  muft  of  courfe  be  great. 

The  iuperHor  fecundity  of  the  fheep  of  this 
country  is  very  remaikible,  and  difficult,  perhaps, 
to  be  accounted  for — a  ewe  here  bringing  forth, 
conftantly  three  lambs  at  a  birth,  iometimes  four, 


REVIEW  OF  AUSTRIAN  FLANDERS,   ft 

fometimes  five,  and  fome  have  been  known  to  pro- 
duce as  many  as  fix  and  ieven — no  (mall  inftance 
of  the  prodigality  of  nature  in  providing  for  this 
fpot. 

At  fome  di dance  from  the  fea-coaft,  the  face  of 
the  country  is  decorated  with  a  profufion  of  wood, 
fitted  either  for  timber  Or  for  fuel  ;  and  towards  the 
coaft,  where  nature  has  been  rather  niggaid  of  that 
blefling,  the  inhabitants  Iubllituie,  in  its  llead,  for 
fuel,  a  kind  of  turf,  which  they  find  at  the  depth 
of  four  or  five  feet  frem  the  lurface  of  the  earth, 
and  which  makes  a  fire,  not  only  cheerful,  plea- 
lant,  and  hot,  but  remarkably  whoieiome,  being 
free  from  the  deltru&ive  iulphurious  and  bitumi- 
nous vapour  attendant  upon  coal. 

Perhaps  no  part  of  the  world  is  better  fupplied 
th  n  this  province  with  all  Ions  of  filh,  as  well 
thoie  of  fea  as  fredi  water  :  fowl  and  venifon  were 
extremely  plenty  and  reafonable  ;  and  a  great  cit^l 
ol  excellent  beer  w.\s  brewed  in  it.  It  is  wafhed 
by  ieveral  rivers:,  four  of  which  are  noble  ftreatns, 
namely,  the  Scheldt,  the  Lys,  the  Scarpe,  and  the 
Dcnder;  and  there  are  feveral  canals,  the  chief  of 
which  is  that  be:  ween  Br  iges  and  Ghent. 

Thus  in  whatever  way  it  be  confidered,  nature 
feems  to  have  made  ample  provthon  for  the  hap  pi- 
nefs  of  the  people  :  how  far  they  are  fo,  you  (hall 
hear  when  I  come  to  give  a  general  view  of  the 
Netherlands — hat  which  is  applicable  to  Auftrian 
Inlanders  being  equally  lo  to  all  the  other  parts  of 
the  Netherlands,  excepting  thole  under  the  domi- 
nion of  the  Republic  of  the  United  Stares. 

The  States  of  this  country,  according  to  the  con- 
ftitution  it  once  poffeffed,  con  filled  of  ciergv,  tr.e 
nobility,  and  the  commoners.  The  clergy  were 
the  bifhops  and  abbots  :  the  nobility  was  compoled 
of  certain  families  holding  hereditary  offices  or 
baronies,  to  which  that  privilege  was  annexed;  and 


58  REVIEW  OF  AUSTRIAN  FLANDERS. 

the  commoners  were  made  up  of  the  burgomaflers, 
penfioners  and  deputies  of  the  cities  and  difln£ta. 
But  the  only  religion  profefled  or  tolerated  in  this 
country,   was  the  Roman  Catholic. 

Of  the  people  of  Auftrian  Flanders  a  celebrated 
Author  gives  the  following  account,  which  I  tranf- 
cribe  for  your  ufe,  the  rather  as  my  flay  there  was 
too  fhort  to  enable  me  to  make  any  material  obfer- 
vations  on  them,   or  their  manners. — 

ii  With  re  I  peel:  to  the  per  Tons  and  characters  of 
the  inhabitants,"  fays  he,  "  they  are,  generally 
fpeaking,  lufty,  fat,  and  clumfy — very  indufti ious, 
both  in  cultivating  their  lands,  and  in  their  trades 
and  manufactures — lovers  of  liberty,  and  enemies  to 
flavery — and  not  defective  in  good  fenfe  or  judg- 
ment, though  they  have  not  lo  lively  an  imagina- 
tion as  fome  other  nations.  Their  women  are  foir, 
handfome  enough,  and  hone  ft  by  .their  natural  con- 
stitution, as  well  as  from  a  principle  of  virtue  :  as 
they  cannot  pretend  to  wit  and  repartee,  they  do 
not  make  themfelves  ridiculous  by  the  nauieous 
afTe&aiion  of  them.  Both  fexes  are  great  lovers  of 
public  diversions;  and  every  city,  town,  and  vil- 
lage, have  their  kermifles,  or  fans,  in  which  all 
forts  of  fhews  are  exhibited." 

Many  arts  which  now  enrich  other  nations,  and 
the  importance  ©f  which  has  excited  contefts  and 
ftruggles  of  the  moll  ferious  kind  in  the  political 
world,  were  invented  or  improved  in  that  country. 
Weaving,  in  general,  though  not  invented,  was 
greatly  improved  ;  and  the  art  of  forming  figures 
of  all  forts  in  linen  was  firft  invented  there.  To 
the  Flemings  we  are  aifo  indebted  for  the  arts  of 
curing  herrings,  dyeing  cloths  and  fluffs,  and  oil- 
colours.  But  thole  arts,  and  the  manufactures,  have 
gradually  flid  away  from  lliem,  and  left  but  a  (mall 
fhare  behind,  when  compared  with  their  former 
flourishing   (late  :   they    have   fLown    to  a  land   of 


REVIEW  OF  AUSTRIAN  FLANDERS.  59 

liberfy  and  fecuriry.  where  hoftile  feet  never  tread, 
where  (Lveiy  corrupteCh  not,  wheie  war  aevoureth 
not,  nor  Prielts  nor  DeipoiS  bn  ak  in  and  ftei!# 
Neverthelefs,  h'k  couon  and  woollen  fluffs,  bi"C- 
aogrs,  camblets,  tapeftr.y,  linen,  and  lace,  aie  ftill 
man  Lectured  here  to  icme  imall  extent. 

This  province  had  counts  of  its  own,  from  the 
nin.h  century  up  to  the  Year  1369,  when  it  v.  as 
made  over,  by  marriage,  (1  ke  a  farm  of  cattle)  ro 
the  dukes  of  Buigundy  ;  and  afterwards,  again,  was 
by  them  made  over,  in  hke  wav  of  marriage,  to 
the  Houle  of  Auftria.  In  1667  France  icized  the 
fouchern  part  ;  and  the  States  General  obtained  the 
northern,  partly  by  the  treaty  of  Munfler,  and 
partly  by  the  Barrier  treaty  of  1715. 

To  reckon  upon  the  natural  endowments  of  this 
country,  one  would  fuppofe  that  it  fhould  be  a  ter- 
reftrial  paradile  :  yet  luch  is  the  wickedneis  of  man, 
and  the  outrageous  fpirit  of  power,  that  it  is  almoin 
the  la  ft  country  in  Europe  in  which  I  would  have 
property,  and  fix  a  permanent  refidence.  Juft 
now,  while  I  am  writing,  I  have  before  me  an  ac- 
count, that  the  French,  to  whom  they  have  opened 
their  gates,  have  plundered  them  to  the  lafb  atom* 
of  their  moveable  poff-ffions  ;  and  that  the  pro- 
perty of  the  unfortunate  people  is  now  in  waggons, 
on  its  way  to  Paris. 

Once  more,  my  boy,  I  fay,  blefs  your  God,  that 
planted  you  in  a  country  cheered  by  the  voice  of 
freedom,  defended  by  Britifk  valour,  and,  what  is 
•f  more  coniecjuencej  lurrounded  by  the  Ocean. 


to        DESCRIPTION  OF  BRUSSELS. 


LETTER    XI, 


H 


AV1NG  conduced  you  through  that 
part  of  the  Nethei lands  called  Auflrian  Flanders. 
we  are  npvv  to  dirrct.  our  attention  to  that  called 
Auftrian  Brabin*",  of  which  part,  as  well  as  of  the 
Netherlands  in  general,  BruflVls,  where  I  anivfd 
the  fame  day  I  left  Ghent,  is  the  capital,  giving  its 
name  to  a  q  ;aiter  or  teiritorv  that  iurrounds  it. 

In  all  parts  of   trfe  Nethet  lands  through  wh.ch  I 
travelled,    I    could    not    nelp   admiring  the  uniform 
decorations    of  the    roads,   rivers,  and  canals,   with 
rows   o(  lofty    trees.   wh:ch    foim  a  mod   agreeable 
fhad      from    the    iummei's  bu.ning  lur,  and  yet  do 
not  obftrttft  any  great  extent  of  proipeft,  the  coun- 
trv  •■>  to  ejttremely  flit.      And    one  thing  I  remark- 
ec:,   and  \vr  c  .  cettainly  feem^  at  fiift    view,  extra- 
ordinary, is,   that    in    the   gteat    extent    of  country 
through  which  we    have    hitherto  pa  fled,   from  Of- 
te-.d    !o   BrulT-  Is,   being    fixty-eight  miles,   I  fcaice 
iaw    one    nobitman    or    gentleman's    feat-— nothing 
-  above  'he  houte  of  a  fojfbandman,  a  curate,  or  fome 
pi  rlon    of  (mail  fortune  :   and   yet   the    country    is 
ex'remely    rich  ;   and  I  law    m2ny   fpots,  as  I  went 
a  <>r»g.    charming    beyond    delcripiion,     and  fuch  as 
tfbuld  nmp1,    1  fhould    think,  a   man    of  tafte  and 
•o      .'  i  ce  to  iettle  in  them.       This  muft  appear  un- 
a  a  un  aole    «..>  thofe  who  do  not    recolleft,    that  in 
a  country  luhjrft   l:ke  this  to  the   ravaging   incurfi- 
ons  of   contending  armies,    fortified  towns  are  con- 
ii.eied  ks  the  moft  pleating,    becauie  the  moil   fe- 
cuie  retreats  of  opulence. 


DESCRIPTION  OF  BRUSSELS.         6 1 

As  I  approached  the  city  of  Brufiels,  I  was 
flruck  with  a  mixed  i'enfation  of  furprife  and  de- 
light at  the  appearance  it  made — -none  that  I  had 
ever  leen  being  comparable  to  it,  and  not  one  in 
Europe,  by  the  account  of  travellers,  being  in  that 
refpect  fuperior  to  it,  Naples  and  Genoa  only  ex- 
cepted :  like  them,  however,  it,  when  entered, 
falls  far  fhort  of  the  expectation  raifed  by  its  ex- 
ternal appearance,  being  all  compoied  of  hills  and 
hollows,  which  noc  only  fatigue,  but  render  the 
appearance  of  the  flreets,  though  well  built,  con- 
temptible and  mean. 

Bruffels  (lands  on  the  beautiful  little  river  Senne, 
on  the  brow  of  a  hill.  The  city  is  about  feven 
miles  in  circumference,  has  feven  gates,  with  ex- 
tenfive  fuburbs,  and  is  encompafled  with  a  double 
wall  made  of  brick,  and  ditches  ;  but  its  fize  is  too 
great  for  flrength,  as  a  face  of  defence  of  luch  ex- 
tent could  not  poiiibly  hold  out  a  long  uege — a 
great  and  infuperable  defect  in  luch  a  country  as  I 
have  de(cribed„ 

Great  as  is  the  extent  cf  ground  on  which  this 
city  Hands,  it  is  neverthelefs  very  well  built,  and 
extremely  populous.  It  is  ornamented  with  no 
fewer  than  feven  fquares,  all  of  them  remarkably 
fine,  particularly  the  great  fquare  or  market  place, 
which  is  reckoned  to  be  perhaps  the  fined  in  Eu- 
rope. Around  it  are  the  halls  of  the  different 
trades,  the  fronts  of  which  are  adorned,  in  a  lu- 
perb  manner,  with  emblematical  fculpture,  with 
gilding,  and  a  variety  of  Latin  inscriptions.  One 
quarter  of  this  (qua  re  is  entirely  occupied  by  the 
town-houfes,  a  nobre  pile  of  building,  in  which 
there  were  apartments  where  the  States  of  Brabant 
met,  finely  adorned  with  tapeltry  in  gilt  frames, 
and  ioms  admirable  original  paintings.  At  th^ 
time  I  was  there,  the  whole  city  was  in  motion, 
preparing  for  the  Inauguration  of  the  Emperor, 
who  was  then  impatiently  expected,  and  whole  ap- 

F  ■ 


62        DESCRIPTION  OF  BRUSSELS. 

proqch  made  fuch  a  buflle,  and  promifed  fuch  a 
Ipeclacle,  as  made  me  regret  the  neceiTuy  1  lay 
under  of  proceeding  on  my  journey.  The  tov.n- 
houfe  was  put  into  the  higheft  order,  and  fubfe- 
quently  fell  a  facrifice  to  the  great  and  important 
event  for  which  it  was  prepared. 

The  fteeple  of  this  building  is  of  a  mod  flupen- 
dous  height — three  hundred  and  fixty-four  feet  ; 
and  on  the  top  of  it  is  erefted  a  flatue  of  Saint 
Michael  killing  the  Dragon,  of  the  enormous 
height  of  feventeen  feet  :  this  coloffal  flacue  is  fo 
conftructed  as  to  ferve  for  a  weather-cock  ;  and  be- 
ing made  of  copper,  well  gilt,  is  at  once  confpi- 
cuous,  magnificent,    and  ornamental. 

The  public  buildings  of  Bruflels.  particularly  the 
palaces  and  courts  of  the  leveral  princes,  counts, 
and  other  perfons  of  diftin&ion,  (and,  you  may  be 
fure,  the  churches  and  cloifters  too),  are  fpacious, 
expenfive,  and  magnificent.  Behir.d  the  imperial 
palace,  which  flood  in  the  higheft;  part  of  the  city, 
but  was  burnt  down  many  years  ago,  is  a  park,  well 
flocked  with  deer,  and  planted  with  trees,  like  St. 
Jalrocs's-park  at  London,  for  the  inhabitants  to  walk 
in.  At  the  farther  end  of  it  is  a  fine  pleafure- 
hou'e,  built  by  the  Emperor  Char  lis  the  fifth, 
after  his  abdication. 

The  palace  is  a  magnificent  flructure  :  the  rooms 
of  it  are  fir.i  fired  in  a  flvle  far  fuperior  to  thofe  of 
any  palace  in  England,  and  enriched  with  many 
fine  paintings:  that  of  the  family  of  Hector,  in 
the  council  chamber,  lays  claim  to  the  fir  it  rank  of 
eminence.  Of  the  other  buildings  (the  grandeur 
of  which  entitle  them  to  the  names  of  palaces), 
thofe  of  the  Prince  de  la  Tour  and  Taxis,  and  the 
Britifh  Earl  of  Aylefbury,  are  diflinguihe  eat 

beauty  and  magnificence.  Indeed,  in  all  the  pala- 
ces, there  are  collections  of  original  gs, 
by  the  mofl  eminent  mailers,  both  Italian  and 
Flcmifti. 


DESCRIPTION  OF  BRUSSELS.        63 

The  roval  library  of  Biuflels  claims  particular  at- 
tention, for  the  magnitude  and  liberality  of  its 
edablifhment,  containing  a  grand  collection  of  the 
mod  excellent  books  in  all  languages,  and  being 
open  all  the  year  on  Tuefdays,  'Thurfdivs,  and 
Saturdays,   to  public  acceis. 

The  arfenal  of  Bruffels  is  extramely  well  worth 
going  to  fee,  on  account  of  the  very  curious  antique 
arms  it  contains — of  which  it  is,  at  this  di usance  of 
time,  impofiible  for  rne  to  give  you  any  account 
worth  attention.  The  armour  of  the  Emperor 
Charles  the  Fifth,  together  with  the  furniture  of 
his  hoife,  and  fute  fword,  are  fhewn  :  I  could  fee 
nothing  either  novel  or  interesting  in  them — a 
flrong  mark  I  prefume,  of  my  want  of  tuPce  ;  but 
I  coafeis  my  organs  are  not  fo  refined  as  to  feel 
any  extraordinary  emotions  at  the  fight  of  a  heap 
of  inert  matter,  mearly  becaufe  it  once  enveloped 
the  carcale  of  a  tyrant  :  neither  were  they  fo  very 
co^rfe  or  dull  as  not  to  undergo  very  pointed  fenfa- 
tions  at  the  fight  of  the  armour  of  Montezuma, 
the  injured  Emperor  of  Mexico,  the  viftim  of  ava- 
rice and  rapine,  under  their  ufual  mafk,  religion. 
Why  Montezuma's  armour  fliould  make  a  part  of 
the  trophies  of  a  Popifh  flate,  ?nd  be  triumphantly 
exhibited,  is  hard  to  occount  for  in  human  folly  : 
why  that  fhould  be  exhibited  which  is  a  ftain  of 
the  deeped-damned  black,  in  their  black  code  of 
faith,  is  adonifhing,  unlei's  we  allow  the  truth  of 
the  old  faying,  4i  Quos  Df. us  vult  perdere.  prius 
dementat ;"  and  that,  after  having  violated  every 
principle  of  virtue,  morality,  and  human  feeling — ■ 
after  having  furpallcd  in  cruelty  all  that  we  know 
of-  the  word  mondersof  the  eaith,  cr  of  the  deep, 
the  fell  hyena,  or  the  ravening  fhark — after  hav- 
ing fuccefsfully  emulated  the  word  efforts  of  the 
moft  malignant  lpirits  that  are  laid  to  hold  counfel 
for  the  ruin  of  mankind  in  hell — they  were  defir- 
ous    to   transmit   the   ipoils  of  their  ravages  to  pof- 


64        DESCRIPTION  OF  BRUSSELS. 

teritv,  to  tell  them  what  glorious  things  have  been 
atehieved  in  days  of  yore,  for  th«  love  of  Christ 
— to  demon  ft  rate  what  benefits  are  to  be  derived 
from  a  religion  which  has,  for  to  many  hundred 
years,  given  iar.cYion  to  every  enormity  that  ftnkes 
the  ioul  of  man  with  horror,  and  thereby  to  make 
converts  to  their  principles.  Monflers  !  fools  I 
Away  with  your  idle  cants,  ye  hypocrites,  who 
-would  brand  the  cruelties  of  the  pteient  days,  the 
rmftacres  of  the  Jacobins,  with  the  crime  of  infi- 
delity, and  attribute  thofe  much  lamented  defec- 
tions from  humanity  to  a  falling  oft  from  the  Ghrif- 
tian  faith.  Look  to  Mexico! — fee  a  monfter,  a 
high  pried;  of  your  religion,  coile&ing,  by  fair  pro- 
fit Ues  and  fwect  purfuafion.  a  people  round  him; 
and,  when  a  plain  was  filled,  commanding  his  blood- 
hounds, armed  with  fword  and  crucifix,  to  fall 
upon  and  murder  them — becaufe  one  poor  creature, 
who  knew  not  what  a  book  meant,  had  acciden- 
i  lly  dropped  a  bible  from  his  hands  ! — ice  him  not 
i caring  age  or  fex,  but  butchering  all,  for  the  love 
of  Christ! — When  have  the  deluded  and  en- 
f^enzied  mob  of  France  perpetrated,  in  the  full 
torrent  of  popular  fienzy,  luch  atrocities  as  this 
cruel  nriefl  committed  in  cold  blood  ?  when  have 
they  hunted  down  their  fellow  creature?,  maffacred 
children,  and  given  their  yet  panting  members  to 
their  dogs  for  food,  as  pious  Cii.i  iftians,  headed  by 
a  pious  prieft,  have  done  in  Mexico?  Never  !  ne> 
ver  ! — Learn  wifclom.  then,  ye  hypocrites !  and  if 
you  cannot  convince  your  enemies  by  realon,  or 
conquer  them  by  force,  and  if  their  predatory  and 
wicked  progrels  is  not  to  be  (topped,  do  not  fanc- 
tify  their  eno:  rallies,  or  palliate  their  crimes,,  in  the 
eye  of  realon,  by  a  companion  with  thole  of  a 
deeper  dye  :  remember,  that  "  not  to  be  the  worft 
ftands  in  iome  rank  of  praife,"  and  that  the  Jaco- 
bin cruelties  of  Paris,  horrible  though  they  were, 
were   pity   and    lender    mercy,  compared  with  ; 


DESCRIPTION  OF  BRUSSELS.        C5 

Chriftian  butchery  in  Mexico,  in  Europe,  in  AGa* 
in  every  place  where  Popery  ever  fct  its  bloody 
hoof. 

You  are  not,  from  what  I  fay.  to  infer  that  I 
entertain  any  illiberal  animofuy  to  Popery,  as  many 
men,  and  more  women,  do,  merely  becaufc  its  ar- 
ticles of  faith  diifer  from  thofe  in  which  I  was 
bred  :  I  truft  my  heart  and  underftanding  are  above 
fuch  very  degrading  prejudices  :  but  I  abhor  every 
thing  that  militates  againft  human  happinefs — every 
thing  that  crufnes  the  operation*  of  intellect — every 
thing  that  (lops  the  current  of  opinion,  and  pre- 
vents its  courfe  from  enlarging  and  meliorating  our 
condition  :  I  abhor  the  impertinent  and  hypocriti- 
cal intrusion  of  all  churchmen  upon  national  or  do- 
me ilic  concerns  ;  the  more,  when  that  intrufion  is 
milchievous ;  and  more  ft  ill,  when  it  a  {fumes  the 
ma(k  of  piety — for  that  is  at  once  a  fraud  upon  mati 
and  an  abufe  of  God.  All  thole  caui'es  of  abhor- 
rence attach,  more  or  lefSj  to  all  fefts  of  the  Chrif- 
tian religion,  the  Quakers  only  excepted — but  to 
Popery  rather  more  than  to  any  of  the  others  ;  for 
it  is  obferved,  that  while  the  very  fiifr.  principles 
of  Chiiftianity,  as  originally  laid  down  in  theory, 
are  peace  and  good-will  towards  men,  warfare,  per- 
fection, and  bloodihed,  have  practically  marked  its 
fooifleps  wherever  it  has  trod,  and  its  very  erf? nee 
been  perverted  by  its  own  mini  iters,  who,  entrusted 
with  the  key  of  the  temple,  Pteal  the  vellmentj 
from  the  alter,  to  cover  the  deformed,  crookui  back 
of  vicr.  But  the  rays  of  downing  reafon  now 
break  with  fuller  light  upon  minkind  ;  and  it  haf* 
tens  10  meridian  reiplender.ee,  before  which  thofe 
phantoms  railed  by  pious  jugglers  will  vanifh,  and, 
li  like  the  bafelefs  fabric  of  a  vifion,  leave  not  a 
wreck  behind.5' 

F  2 


66        DESCRIPTION  OF  BRUSSELS. 


LETTER    XII. 


I 


II  the  arfenal  of  BrufTels  was  another  eu- 
r:ofity.  which  I  overlooked  in  my  lafl — a  model  of 
a  cannon,  conftructed  io  as  to  throw  feven  balls  a: 
oner.  It  is  fome  confobtion  to  philanthropy  to  re- 
fle£i,  that  of  ail  the  abominable  engines  and  inflru- 
ments  which  the  inventive  faculties  of  man  have 
difcovered  to  incrcafe  the  cruelty  and  carnage  of 
xvar,  not  one  has  been  of  late  times  adopted.  This 
model  lies  here,  therefore,  only  as  a  memorial  erf 
the  diabolical  genius  of  the  inventor. 

The  opera- houle  of  Brussels,  accounted  the  no- 
bled  and  largefl  in  Europe,  is  built  after  the  Italian 
manner,  with  rows  of  lodges  or  clofets,  in  mod  of 
which  are  chimneys.  One  of  thole,  which  belong- 
ed to  a  prince,  whofc  title  I  now  forget,  was  hung 
wi.-h  looking-glafTes,  in  which,  while  he  fat  by  the 
lire,  took  refrefnments,  or  reclined  on  his  couch, 
he  could  fee  the  whole  reprelentation,  without  be- 
ingexDofed  to  the  view  of  either  the  cttors  or  the 
audience. 

The  markets  cf  Biuuels  are  very  remaikable. 
The  dukes  of  St.  Pierre  paid  no  lets  than  forty 
thoufaud  Act  ins,  or  upwards  of  three  thouland 
bounds  S'.eiling,  for  four  piftuvesof  them,  painted 
by  Rubeks  and  SvKi>k* — Lewis  the  Fouiteenth 
of  France  offered  an  mm.enie  lura  of  money  for 
them  ;  but  they  font  d  their  way  at  l*ft  into  the 
cc  I  .1.  on  of  the  Britifh  Earl  of  Orford.  The  va- 
lue of  them  is  laid,  by  connoilfeurs,  to  be  beyond 
computation. 

BruflHs  is  extremely  well  fupplied  with  water  : 
for,   befides  the  riverj   it   has   twenty   public   foun- 


DESCRIPTION  OF  BRUSSELS.        Cj 

tains,  adorned  with  ftatues,  at  the  corners  of  the 
moil  public  ftreets  ;  and  the  lower  part  of  the  city 
is  cut  into  canals,  which  communicate  with  the 
great  one,  extending  from  Bruffels  to  the  Scheldt, 
fifteen  miles  :  by  means  of  this  canal,  winch  was 
finifhed  in  ^561,  and  cod  the  city  eight  hundred 
ihoufand  florins,  a  perfon  may  fail  from  Bruffels  to 
the  North  Sea  ;  and  barques  do  actually  go  twice  a- 
day  to  Antwerp,    and  back  again. 

This  city  is  full  of  chuiches,  of  which  the  men: 
remarkable  is  that  of  Saint  Michael  and  Saint 
Gudula,  commonly  called  the  cathedral.  It  is  a 
iuperb,  old  Gothic  (tincture,  and,  fiotn  its  celebia- 
ted  fituation,  a  mod  beautiful  ornament  to  the  city. 
It  is  not  only  grand  in  its  external  appearance,  but 
finely  adorned  within.  The  pillars  which  fupport 
the  roof  are  lofty  and  elegant  :  and  againfl  each  is 
a  flatue  of  ten  feet  in  height.  There  are  no  lei's 
than  fixteen  chapels  in  it  ;  and  each  chapel  is  en- 
riched with  abundance  of  Iplcndid  ornaments,  altar 
finery,  candle-Micks,  crucifixes,  &c.  and  with  iomc 
excellent  pictures  too  :  a  picture  of  Jesus  Christ 
prefenting  the  keys  of  Paradife  to  Saint  Peter, 
which  is  reckoned  among  the  chef-d'eeuvres  of 
Rubens,  hangs  in  one  of  thole  chapels.  There 
are  iome  monuments,  alio,  of  very  great  merit,  in 
the  choir  of  this  church.  But  that  which  I  think 
by  far  the  greateft  and  mod  admirable  curiofity  (I 
mean  of  human  workmanfhip)  in  the  church,  is  a 
pulpit — one  of  the  richeil  and  mod  exquifi  eiy 
wrought  pieces  I  have  ever  (cen  :  ai  the  bottom  are 
feen  Adam  and  Eve  as  large  as  life,  reprefented 
as  at  the  moment  when  the  angel  drove  them  out  of 
Paradise  :  in  both  of  their  faces  are  deeply  and  ex- 
prefFively  marked  the  traits  ef  a  mind  ago'niied  with 
anguiih   and  remorle  :     behind  Eve   is  a    figure   of 

uh,  which  follows  them  ;  and  on  the  top  of 
the  pulpit  are  feen  the  figures  "of -Jesus  Christ 
and    the   Virgin   Mary  crulaing  the  head  of  the 


68        DESCRIPTION  OF  BRUSSELS, 

Serpent.  The  flrong  cxprefhons  in  the  faces  oi 
all  thoie  figures,  and  the  exquifite  turn  of  the 
workmanfhip,  is  the  more  remarkable,  as  it  is  all 
cut  out  of  oak  wood. 

Of  fupernatural  curlofuies,  one  of  the  chapels 
in  this  cathedral  contains  fome,  that,  for  miracle, 
yield  to  none  in  the  long  catalogue  of  monkilh  de- 
vices. Three  hofts  or  wafers  are  daily  worfhipped 
by  the  people  ;•  which  hofts  or  wafers,  the  piiefts 
firmly  aiTert,  and  the  people  as  firmly  believe,  vvere, 
lb  long  ago  as  the  year  1369,  ftabbed  by  a  Jew, 
and  bled  profufely.  They  are  expoled  on  every 
feftival,  in  a  chalice  richly  fct  with  diamonds ;  and 
on  the  firft  Sunday  after  every  thirteenth  of  July, 
there  is  a  yearly  proceflion  in  memory  of  this  (tab- 
bing and  bleeding,  when  the  hofts  are  carried  in 
great  flate  round  the  city,  embellifhcd  with  all  man- 
ner of  precious  (lone?,  and  attended  by  all  the 
clergy,  fecular  and  regular,  the  nwgiftrates,  the 
courts  of  juflice,  and  even  by  the  governor  of  the 
province  :  the  chapel  where  they  are  kept  is  of 
marble,  and  the  altar  of  folid  ft  Iyer. 

Great  God  !  what  an  opprobium  to  the  human 
underfUnding,  that,  at  the  time  when  the  mind  of 
man  is  {efficiently  enlightened  to  avoid  the  weak- 
ness of  fhameful  credulity,  a  whole  people  fhould 
ftoop  to  fuch  extravagant  impofuion  1  what  a  fhame 
to  juflice  and  honejty,  that  thofe  who  are  trufted 
to  guard  the  rights  of  a  people,  and  who  certainly 
are  too  well  informed  to  yield  their  belief  to  luch  ^ 
trafh,  fhould  yet  join  in,  and  give  the  weight  of 
their  authority  to  lo  grofs,  lo  wicked  a  deception  ora 
a  community  !  The  magi  ft  rates,  the  courts  or  juflice, 
and  the  governor — they  walk,  100,  in  company  with 
the  bald-pated  impoftors — Good  God  I  can  mere 
be  laid  ?  volumes  of  comment  could  not  elucidate 
or  render  it  more  conlpicuoufly  abfuid  than  the 
bare  recital  of  the  fc£t  itfelf, 


i 


DESCRIPTION  OF  BRUSSELS.        6g 

It  is  impoflible  for  me  to  recount  to  you  the  num- 
ber of  nunneries,  of  various  orders,  in  which  un- 
fortunate women  were  cloiftered  up,  fome  from 
bigotry,  and  others  by  force,  in  this  city.  There 
were,  however,  two  of  them  Englifh — one  of  Do- 
minican ladies,  founded  by  Cardinal  Howard,  in 
the  reign  of  Charles  the  Second,  of  which  a  lady 
cf  the  noble  Houfe  of  Norfolk  was  always  abbefs  : 
the  other  is  of  Benedictine  nuns  ;  the  Beguinage 
of  the  latter  is  like  a  little  town,  furrounded  with  a 
wall  and  ditch,  and  divided  into  pretty  little  ftreels, 
where  every  Beguine  has  her  apartment  ;  the  num- 
ber of  them  amounts  in  general  to  leven  or  eight 
hundred,   ibmetimes  more. 

If  population  be  the  true  ftrength  of  a  nation, 
this  part,  of  Popery  is  very  impolitic.  The  iuc 
ceflion  of  women  in  this  one  convent  fince  the 
reign  of  Charles  the  Second,  mull  amount  to 
many  thoulandi.  Hau  thole  been  married,  and,  on 
an  average,  had  only  two  children  each,  with  the 
children,  grandchildren,  and  great-grandchildren, 
down  to  the  prefent  day,  in  all  the  ramifications  of 
defcent.  there  is  no  doubt  but  their  number  would 
equal  that  of  the  whole  people  of  fome  extenfive 
provinces.  What,  then,  mult  be  the  lofs  to  the  po- 
pulation of  the  earth,  arifing  from  the  celibacy  of  fa 
many  millions  of  males  and  females  as  have  been 
configned  to  fterility  in  the  catholic  countries,  ever 
nee  that  extraordinary  doclrine  came  fir  it  into 
afhion  ?  It  is  out  of  the  reach  of  calculation  :  not 
but,  now  and  then,  they  may  have  childier.--ir.deed 
they  certainly  have  but  thofe  are  generally  dilpoied 
of  in  a  way  not  to  bring  fhame  on  the  frail  Sifter- 
hood,  or  their  ConfeiTors. 

In  wading  through  fuch  a  torrent  of  ofFenfive 
ideas  as  the  innumerable  abfurdities  and  deceptions 
of  Popifh  countries  continually  raife  in  the  mind, 
it  is  a  pleafing  circum fiance  to  be  relieved  by  the 
contemplation  of  fome  really  ufeful.  humane  infiU 


70        DESCRIPTION  OF  BRUSSELS. 

tution  ;  and  fuch  a  one  prefents  itfelf  now  to  my 
recollection  :  At  Bruffels,  and,  I  am  told,  at  all 
great  towns  of  the  Netherlands,  there  is  a  public 
office  for  lending  money  at  a  very  moderate  intereft 
upon  pledges  :  it  is  called  the  Mount  of  Piety  ', 
and  was  eftablifhed  nearly  108  years  ago  by  the 
Archduke,  Albert,  and  Isabella,  his  wife. 
By  this  institution,  the  poor  aie  laved  from  the 
fleecings  and  frauds  of  pawn-brokers  :  and  to  ren- 
der it  dill  more  perfect,  in  accommodation,  there 
arc  private  parages  for  entrance  ;  fo  that  thole  who 
would  wifh  to  conceal  their  ncceflities,  are  exempt- 
ed from  the  mortification  of  being  feeti  publicly 
going  in,   or  coming  out. 

You  have  read.  I  prefume,  that  in  the  days  of 
Heatheniim,  the  Deities  of  that  curious  Mythology 
were  fuppofed  to  rejoice  in  the  number  Three. 
The  Popifh  Code  has  fix^d  upon  Seven  as  the 
lucky  number.  Thus  they  have  (sven  facraments,. 
feven  deadly  fins,  See.  &c.  Brufleis  has  improved 
upon  that  ;  and,  taking  the  hint  from  their  blcff.-d 
liturgy,  has  feven  grand  ftreets  ;  feven  parifh- 
ehurches  ;  feven  Patrician  families,  out  of  which 
the  Magi  (Ira  tea  are  or  were  elected  ;  leven  large 
fquares  ;  feven  midwives,  licenfed  and  Iworn  by 
the  Senate  ;  and  feven  gates,  leading  to  feven  pla- 
ces of  recreations  and  exercise,  one  to  a  place  pro- 
per for  fowling,  a  fecond  to  a  place  for  fifhing,  a 
third  to  one  far  hunting,  a  fourth  to  pleafant  fieids^^k 
a  fifth  to  paftime  grounds,  a  fixlh  to  ip'ings  und&i 
vineyards,  and  a  leventh  to  gardens.  Bolides  a'l 
which  (evens,  they  boait  of  having  once  had  the 
great  good  fortune  of  entertaining,  at  one  tur^e, 
leven  crowned  heads,  with  leven  thoufand  boric 
belonging  to  their  retinue.  If  there  wese  any  fpell 
in  the  number  Seven,  the  people  of  Bru'feis  luie- 
ly  mud  have  been  lecure  horn  all  mitchief ;  bat  the 
Hans-culottes  have  broken  the  chaiin,    diiperied  tiie 


INAUGURATION  OF  THE  EMPEROR.  71 

necromancers,  and  lowered  poor  number  Seven  to 
its  mere  arithmetical  value. 

The  inns,  or  eating  houfes,  in  this  city,  were 
equal  to  any  in  the  world  :  a  (Iranger  might  dine 
there  better  and  cheaper  than  in  any  place  perhaps, 
on  earth.  The  wines,  alio,  were  excellent  and 
chezp  ;  and  coach-hire  beyond  expectation  reafona- 
ble — And  here  I  recollect  to  rematk  to  you,  that, 
all  the  way  from  Oftend  to  Bruflels,  one  is  obliged 
to  fir,  dine,  &c.  in  bed-chambers  ;  a  circumftance 
which  is  extremely  difcordant  to  the  feelings  of  thofe 
■who  have  been  ufed  to  Britifh  inns,  although  the 
bed-chambers  are,  to  fay  the  truth,  large  and  com- 
modious. At  the  very  walls  of  Bruflels  begins  the 
famous  wood  of  Sogne,  from  which  the  inhabitants 
were  allowed  to  cut  wood  for  fuel  :  as  fad  as  the 
trees  were  cut  down,  frefh  ones  were  planted  in 
their  ftead  ;  by  which  means  the  wood  was  pre- 
ierved,  and  it  afTerded  a  continual  fupply  to  the 
poor. 

Bruflels  is  fo  very  remaikable  a  place,  that  I  have 
taken  more  than  my  uiual  .cope  of  delcription  of  it. 
Jufl  as  I  had  finifhcd  it,  I  read  a  paragraph  in  the 
public  papers,  dating  that  it  is  likely  to  be  annexed 
to  the  territories  of  the  French  Republic. 


LETTER     XIII, 


on 


JLXiTHERTO,  as  I  have  proceeded  « 
my  travels,  I  have  been  purpofely  very  paiticular 
in  my  descriptions  of  the  towns  through  winch  I 
pa  fled  on  my  way  -o  India,  in  order  to  give  your 
tnind  a  dnpofition  to  inquiry,  and  point  out  to  you 
an  evei  fkrwii  g  fource  of  improvement  and  delight. 
Having    io  iai   (hewn   you  how  amply  you  will  be 


72  INAUGURATION  OF  THE  EMPEROR. 

rewarded,  even  in  amufement,  by  the  trouble  of 
fearching  into  books,  for  the  accurate  topographical 
cefcriptions  of  towns,  cities,  buildings,  &c.  &c. 
I  think  I  may  fpare  myfelf  that  labour  for  the  fu- 
ture, and  confine  myfelf  to  thofe  points  that  mere 
immediately  apply  to  the  enlargement  of  the  mind 
— -I  mean,  the  government,  laws,  manners,  and 
character  of  the  people  of  each  fcoonfry  ;  and  01 
ufe  the  former  as  fubicrvient  to  the  latter  purpote, 
at  leaf!  until  I  come  to  ihofe  places  where,  the 
ground  being  but  little  trodden  by  Britifh  feet, 
more  precife  defcription  may  become  neceflory. 

But,  before  I  leave  the  Netherlands,  I  muft 
make  a  few  remaiks  upon  the  country  and  people, 
which  it  would  be  unpardonable  in  me  to  omit^fter 
having  been  already  lo  minutely  particular  in  tilings 
of  inferior  merit  to  the  lcope  of  my  plan. 

Although  pcrfonal  appeal ance  be,  in  the  eye  of 
Moral  Philofophy,  a  veiy  Inferior  confederation, 
and  mind  the  proper  ftudy  of  man  ;  yet  in  describ- 
ing a  prople,  I  cannot  think  it  altogether  unnecef- 
fary  to  include  their  perioral  appearance,  as  it  will 
be  found  that  there  exifts  a  greater  analogy  between 
tite  reiion  and  the  mind  of  men  than  is  generally 
perceived.  Thus  the  lively  hilarity,  the  reflleis 
activity,  the  levity  and  fantaftic  char?£ler  of  the 
French,  are  flrongly  pourtrayed  in  the  national 
perlon.  In  like  n  anner,  the  lufty,  fat,  clumly 
and  misfhapen  perion  of  the  people  of  the  Nethe] 
lands,  is  fliongly  llluftrative  of  the  temper  and  ha^ 
bit  of  their  mind,  intellefts  and  fpirits:  induilri- 
ous  and  heavy  ;  dull  of  underilancing,  but  not  de- 
\<  cYsve  in  judgment  ;  (low  in  woik— but,  perlever- 
ing  in  effort,  and  unerring  in  the  procefs,  they  are 
generally  iucceisful  in  the  end  :  in  war,  cold  and 
backward  at  offenfive  operat.ons,  but  inflexible  and 
terrible  in  refiftance  ;  like  the  bear  of  the  foiefr, 
they  leek  not  the  combat  with  any,  but  will  not 
go*  o\K  cf  their   way  to   decline   it  with  the  mod 


INAUGURATION  OF  THE  EMPERO?.  73 

powerful  :  their  appetites  and  delires  cooler  than 
other  naiions,  but  lefs  fubjecl:  to  change  or  caprice  : 
never  violently  in  love,  but  utionally  attached  to 
their  wives  ;  and  both  men  and  women  faithful  to 
their  conjugal  vow,  as  well  from  natural  tempera- 
ment,  as  from  a  principle  of  virtue. 

Thus  conftituted  by  nature,  the  effects  of  their 
indultry  are  wonderful  in  every  thing,  but  chiefly 
in  their  canals  and  flu  ices,  which  ferve  not  only 
for  the  fupport  of  their  com  Tierce,  and  the  Facility 
of  intercourle,  but  for  their  defence  again  ft  ene- 
mies; this  was  in  other  times ;  but,  alas!  the  for- 
mer of  thefe  ufes,  commerce,  has  fo  entirely  ab- 
foibed  all  their  in  lei  left,  and  porTeflfecl  their  very 
Joul?,  that  they  feem  almod  entirely  negligent  of 
the  latter  ;  and  from  being,  of  all  people,  the  mod 
wife  and  vigilant  in  deiermining  and  ascertaining 
their  lights,  the  mod  zealous  alien eis  and  defenders 
of  their  independence,  the  moil  ardent  friends  to 
liberty,  and  the  mod  determined  enemies  co  iLvc:y, 
thev  are  become  a  lortof  flrange,  in  con  ft  dent.  hofch> 
potch  politicians,  whem  ingenuity  itfelf  would  fir.d 
a  ciifliculty  in  describing.  They  retain  fo  much  of 
their  ancient  and  noble  vigilance  as  ferves  to  make 
them  fufpicious — fo  much  of  their  independence  as 
dilpofes  them  to  change — fo  much  of  their  jealoufy 
as  Simulates  them  to  re  ft  da  nee — out  not  one  parti- 
cle of  their  former  wifdom,  to  inftruft  them  where 
U;ey  fhould  attach  themfelves,  where  reft  ft,  or  where 
refolvc  to  set — nor  of  their  courage  to  carry  any  rc- 
folution  they  might  form  into  efTtct. 

In  the  year  1  78  r ,  the  Emperor  jo  s  :•:?  :i  the  Se- 
cond came  to  B  ruffe  Is,  in  ouier  to  n&tiig6  his  pa- 
ternal feeiings  as  a  monarch  with  the  contemplation 
and  view  of  his  fubjetls,  and  alfo  to  be  in  jd  ; 

and   perhaps    upon  no  cccDllon  that  has  ever  occur- 
1   the   mod  volatile  naiipn,    was    tneie  zieater 

■  pore  univerla'Iy  exprefled.  For  fomc  time  be- 
fore his  arrival,   the    whole  country  was  in  motion, 

G 


74  INAUGURATION  OF  THE  EMPEROR. 

and,  even  with  them,  domeftic  indufbry  flopped 
its  tifual  perfevering  pace,  lufpcnded  in  the  eager, 
anxious  expeftaiion  of  his  a: rival.  Every  thing  in 
the  birth,  education,  natural  diipofnion  and  perfon 
of  the  young  Emperor,  united  to  imprefs  his  fub- 
je6ls  with  the  moft  exalted  opinion  of  his  good n el's, 
and  to  inipire  all  ranks  of  people  with  the  moft 
fortunate  prefages  of  a  wiie  and  beneficent  govern- 
ment. Nor  did  he  diiappoint  them  :  his  conduft, 
when  among  them,  is  handed  over  to  remembrance, 
by  a  variety  of  aft*  of  benevolence  and  condefcen- 
fion,  which  fhowed  that  the  grandeur  of  the  mo- 
narch had  not  made  him  forget  the  nature  of  the 
man,  and  that  his  heart  was  better  fitted  for  the 
mild,  domeitic  enjoyments  of  a  fubjeft,  than  the 
Hern  and  unbending  kaidihood  fit  for  a  King  :  for 
I  am  perfe£l'y  of  opinion  with  the  celebrated  Ju- 
ki us,  that  there  are  virtues  in  a  private  man  which 
are  vices  in  a  King  ;  and  that  the  monarch  of  a 
country,  in  order  to  preferve  refpeft,  lliould  avoid 
familiarity,  and  keep  his  perfon  iacred  from  too 
general  observation.  Shakspeare  has  put  into  the 
mouth  of  his  Henry  the  Fouith,  a  beautiful  ex- 
preflion  on  this  lubjeft,  well  worth  the  attention  of 
Kings — 

"  Had  I  fo  lavifh  of  my  prefence  been, 

So  common  hackney 'd  in  the  eyes  of  men, 

Opinion,  that  did  help  me  to  the  Crown, 

Had  fiill  kept  loyal  to  poflemon, 

And  left  me  in  reputelefs  banifhment« 

A  fellow  of  no  mark,  nor  likelihood. 

By  being  feldom  leen.   I  could  not  ftir, 

But,  like  a  comet,   I  was  wonder'd  a;  : 

That  men  would  tell  their  children,  This  he  he.'' 

Of  the  number  I  have  heard,    I  wall  mention  one 
anecdote  only,    and    one    remarkably    expreflu 
Joseph's,  which  will   ferve    to   fh^w    in    its 
light  what  his  difpofition  was  ;  and  when  you 
fider  them  as  the  aft  and  fentiment  of  a  young 


INAUGURATION  OF  THE  EMPEROR.  J  $ 

nurfed  in  the  lap  of  deTpotlfm  and  pride,   you    can- 
not but  confider  them  as  Marvellous. 

In  his  journey  to  the  low  countries,  he  vifited 
Wurtzaurg  ;  and,  in  his  perambulating  alone  and 
incog,  {lopped  at  a  little  public-houle.  where  the 
people  were  bufily  employed  in  entertaining  them- 
ielves  :  he  went  in,  and  inquired  why  they  were  i'o 
merry — "  Sir,"  {aid  one  of  the  country  people, 
(i  we  are  celebrating  a  marriage."  *'  May  I  be 
permitted  to  join  the  company  ?"  faid  the  dilguifed 
Emperor.  The  hod  obtained  that  permiilion  for 
him.  When  he  entered  the  room,  the  married 
couple  were  prefented  to  him,  and  he  received 
them  with  great  gaiety,  fat  down,  drank  their 
health,  and,  having  informed  himfelf  of  their  fi- 
tuation,  took  leave  of  the  company  :  but  what  was 
their  aftonifhment,  when,  on  lifting  up  a  bottle  of 
wine,  they  found  a  draft  for  fix  hundred  florins, 
figned  Joseph,  and  payable  for  the  ufe  of  the 
married  couple. 

At  Luxembourg,  when  the  people  called  aloud 
on  Heaven  tofhower  down  blefhngs  on  him  for  his 
affability,  he  made  ule  of  this  remarkable  exprefft- 
on,  while  his  feelings  moiftened  his  eyes  i  "  I 
'.villi  I  could  make  you  as  happy  in  my  care,  as  I 
am  in  your  affection  !" 

The  affability  of  monarchs  has  often  been  magni- 
fied by  the  foolifti,  and  often  blamed  by  the  wife  : 
But,  if  all  the  inflances  of  eondefcenfion  pracliifed 
by  kings  were  like  that  I  have  recited  of  Joseph  ; 
if  they  aroie  from  a  found,  unqueftionable  fpirit  of 
philanthropy,  not  from  gaping  curiofity,  broad  fol- 
ly, orapeurile  inquifitive  habit;  and  if,  inllead 
of  conceiving  thoie  they  vifu  paid  for  their  intiu- 
lion  with  the  honour  of  having  converfed  with  ma- 
jelly,  and  leaving  them  churhihly,  they  would  ge- 
ne: oufiv  pay  them  with  hard  cafh,  as  the  good  Em- 
peror Joseph  did  ;  then,    indeed,    their  affability 


;£>  INAUGURATION  OF  THE  EMPEROR. 

might  defy  the  exaggeration  of  fool?,  and  muff  cer- 
tainly command  the  applauie  of  the  wile. 

On  the  13th  of  July,  the  ceremony  of  inaugura- 
tion took  place  at  Bruffrls.  Nothing  could  equal 
the  fplendour  of  the  place  but  the  general  joy  of 
the  people  :  the  crowds  were  beyond  all  conception 
imrocnfe,  and  every  thing  was  cauied  on  with  re- 
gularity till  evening,  whes,  in  playing  off  fome 
hre-woikr,  that  noble  building  the  town-houie 
lock  fite.  and  was  burnt  :  iix  unfoi lunate  perfons 
}o(t  their  lives,  and  twenty  were  dangerouQy  hurt- 
ed  :  thofe  who  peiifhed  were  abfolutcly  loaded, 
rnd  their  cries  were  beyond  defesiption  piejeing. 
To  (uch  a  temper  as  JosiPirs.  you  will  readily 
conclude  that  this  mult  be  a  rr.oft  afflicVng  circum- 
ftance — it  was  fo  ;  and  he  left  Brufleli  under  the. 
pteffare  of  ve;y  different  feelings  from  thole  with 
which  he  entered  it,  and  was  followed  by  the  pray- 
ers ar.d  biefTings  of  all  the  people. 

But  now  we  are  to  view  the  reverfe  of  the  me- 
li.e  found  of  their  prayers  for  his  welfare, 
?r.d  piaiies  of  his  goodneis.  had  hardly  died  away 
upon  their  lips,  ere  their  minds  turned  to  revolt 
and  rebellion.  I  will  not  lay  that  they  were  nut 
light  in  one  or  other,  or  which  of  thole  two  ex- 
tremes :  certainly  they  could  not  be  right  in  both  j 
much  leis  can  their  iuhfequent  conduct  be  ju (lifted,, 
or  accounted  for,  in  any  principle  of  human  nature,, 
but  that  of  the  moil  abject  meannefs,  daftardly  fee- 
blenefs,  and  grois  folly.  They  returned  to  their 
allegiance,  and  befought  forgiveneis  :  that  forgive- 
nels  was  g; anted.  How  they  have  behaved  lince, 
I  have  already  informed  you,  (lee  Letter  IV.)  ; 
ar.d  J  have  now  to  add,  that,  pillaged  by  the  French, 
and  likely  to  be  left  unprotected,  they  have  again 
held  their  necks  out,  foliating  the  protection  and 
the  yoke  of  Auflria,  and  have  actually  offered  to 
raiie  icOjOCO  men  for  the  Emperor,  if  he  will  ag 


INAUGURATION  OF  THE  EMPEROR.  J  J 

drive  the  French  out    of  their  territories— An  ex- 
cellent word  that  if  ! 

How  a  people,  once  formed  for  manly  pith  and 
love  of  freedom,  could  bend  lo  low,  is  unaccount- 
able. It  is  a  queftion  hard  to  be  determined,  whe- 
ther an  obftinate  adherence  even  to  a  bad  caufe,  is 
not  more  refpe£hble,  than  a  fickle,  alternate  dere- 
liction, and  adoption  of  right  and  wrong,  as  it  funs 
the  caprice  or  convenience  of  ihe  moment  ?  Of 
two  things  fo  very  contemptible,  I  think  the  for- 
mer the  lead  odious  and  leaft  unmanly. 

At  the  fame  time,  my  obfervations  on  the  coun- 
try led  me  to  conceive,  that  under  the  name  of 
freedom,  they  groaned  urider  the  yoke  of  tyranny  ; 
for,  though  the  country  was,  as  I  have  described  it, 
charming,  its  fecundity  unfurpaffed,  its  face  deco- 
ded with  the  bed:  gifts  of  Providence — I  mean, 
itniling  fields  and  bleating  plains-4—  though  Cera 
profufely  repaid  the  iabours  of  the  hufbandman, 
though  every  field  had  the  appearance  of  a  garden, 
and  though,  upon  inquiry,  I  found  that  land  which 
would  bring  in  England  five  pounds  an  acre,  rented 
at  eight,  nine,  and  ten  (hillings  of  our  money  at 
mod — yet,  in  fpite  of  all  this,  the  farmers  were 
rather  poor  in  general — not  even  one  of  them  to  be 
found  rich  and  lubftantial,  like  the  middle  rank  of 
that  cUfs  of  men  in  England.  They  wanted  the 
great  ftimulus  to  industry — fecurity  of  their  pro- 
perty :  they  were  liable  to  be  turned  out  by  their 
landlords  at  pleasure,  and  be  plundered  when  it 
Ino'uld  pleale  lome  monarch  to  make  war. 

The  fir  ft  of  thefe,  however,  you  will  obfervc,  is 
not  the  opprefiion  of  the  Emperor:  it  is  a  tyranny 
of  that  worft  of  all  conftituent  parts  of  a  (late,  an 
ar:ftocracy — a  vile  arillocracy  ! — that  univerfal,  that 
ev -ry-day  deipo  iim,  under  which  all  places  groan, 
more  or  lels — which  is  exerciied  in  all  the  various 
giadations  of  life  that  chequer  icc.tty,  from  the 
great  nun  who,  under  the  name  of  miniiler,  dorni- 

G   2 


7S  INAUGURATION  OF  THE  EMPEROR. 

neers  over  the  peer,   to  the  country  fox-hunting  fa- 

vage,  who  puts  a  poor  wretch  in  jail  to  pine  for 
yea  is,  (his  family,  the  while,  fupporred  bv  the  pi- 
rifh  charity),  only  for  doing  that  which  makes  the 
enjoyment  of  his  own  life,  killing  a  partridge  or  a 
hare  ! — that  ariilocratic  tyranny  which  is  lecn 
fcowling  on  the  brows  of  a  fwaggering  fellow  in 
power,  adopted  by  his  fecretary  with  increafe,  by 
him  handed  down  to  an  upRart  let  of  fellows  in 
office,  dependent  on  his  fmile,  and  by  them  dis- 
played in  all  the  niufeous,  defpicable  forms  which 
awksvaidnefsand  ignorance  lifted  above  their  Rati- 
ons, never  fail  to  alfume — the  cold  referve,  the  af- 
fected Rare,  the  liRlefs  nod,  the  feigned  deafnefst 
blindnefs,  absence,  and  other  fafhionable  peifeft:- 
ons,  which  ferve  as  vents  for  upRart  arrogance,  and 
indemnify  the  fycophant  for  the  vile  homage  and 
jubmiffion  which  he  has  before  paid  feme  wretchr 
mean  and  arrogant  as  himlelf  ! — I  tell  you,  my  dear 
Frederick,  it  is  this  ariftocia'.ic  uiurpa'ion  of 
power,  where  power  exiRs  not,  nor  is  neccfl"<ry — 
this  infuliing  affumption  of  luperiority,  this  hidden 
petty  opprefiion  which  rears  its  head  in  every 
manor,  nay,~-almoR  every  town  and  vili^ge  in  the 
kingdom,  that  put  the  nations  out  of  tune,  mars  the 
harmony  of  focial  arrangement,  and  renders  power 
in  the  aggregate  obnoxious.  Why,  our  veiy  wo- 
men have  their  faucy,  ariRocratic,  iuperciheus 
front,  their  haughty  Rare,  their  contemptuous  tit- 
ter ;  and  barter  the  winning  loftne'.sof  the  iex,  the 
dimples  where  the  loves  fhouW  dwell,  for  the 
haughty  lots  of  the  hend,  the  ill-natured  Cheer,  and 
the  infulting  H  color's  frown — And  thus  the  fpirit 
cf  ariRocracy,  like  a  poiionous  weed,  grows  and 
expands  from  one  to  the  other  with  baleful  luxuri- 
ance, gradually  overlpic-iding  the  whole  face  ol  hu- 
manity, Roppi»';gthe  wholelome  current  of  the  (oct- 
al atrnofphere.    and   choakmg   up  the  leis  tank  but 


CONSTITUTION,    &c.  79 

more  ufeful  plants — Thus  it  goes  rounfi  in  fhameful 
traffic  ;  and,   as  the  post  (ays, 

':  The  wh — re  fhe  kicks  her  cully, 
Court-waiters  ire  kick'd  at  call  ; 
Ws  are  all  kick'd,  yet  bully- 
While  infreft  kicks  the  ball." 

I  am  peifuaded,  that  if  the  grievances  of  the 
moft  deipotic  dates  were  fairily  eftimated,  and  al- 
figned  to  their  real  authors,  the  princes  of  iuch  dates 
would  be  found  reiponlible  for  a  very  (mall  fhare 
indeed,  when  compared  with  the  ariflocracy  :  and 
by  ariflocracy,  I  mean  not  merely  lords,  but  all  men 
who  convert  the  wealth  which  Piovidcnce  has  be- 
flovved  upon  them  to  the  purpoles  of  tyranny,  exac- 
tions, impofition  and  oppreffion — under  which  four 
heads  we  will  again  find,  not  only  impiifonmcnt  for 
hegging  alms,  impnionment  for  (hooting  a  par- 
tridge, but  often  ledu£lion,  adultery,  and  perfecu- 
tion  for  refilling  or  relorting  to  law  for  punifhment 
of  that  leduftion  or  adulteiy.  Of  all  thole  things, 
the  proofs,  I  fear,  in  all  nations,  are  abundant  :  I 
am  (ure  they  are  fo  in  the  heft  governed  flate  in 
Europe — I  mean*  England — ■ 

"  Qui  capit,  ille  facit." 

I  have  thrown  up  a  fool's  cap  :  how  many  are 
there  who  will  privately  put  it  on  ! 


LETTER    XIV. 

--    -  ■    ■•■'.■   ..     ..    -.    .jt. 


A: 


.S  the  time  of  my  departure  from  Bruf- 
fels  pproached,  I  fo  ind  the  bitter  lenlations  with 
which  I  left  London,   in  lome   measure,  returning* 


8o  CONSTITUTION  OF  THE 

My  fortunate!  encounter  with  General  Locxhart 
had  affoided  me  a  tempotaiy  lelpite  ;  but  now  I 
was  once  more  to  face  an  unknown  country  alone, 
without  the  chance  of  again  meeting  a  friend  to  io- 
lace  my  mind,  or  mitigate  my  woe,  on  this  fide  of 
India. 

Having  feen  as  much  of  B'ufTels  as  my  time  and 
occafions  would  at  all  allow,  and,  in  truTh,  having 
rather  trefbaffed  on  my  plan,  for  the  realons  juft 
mentioned,  1  determined  to  pufh  forward  as  faft  as 
it  was  poffible,  and  took  poll  for  Liege,  where  I 
artived,  after  palling  through  a  beautiful,  fertile, 
well-cultivated  country,  to  the  charms  of  which 
the  renewed  agony  of  my  feelings  redered  me  al- 
mofl  infenfible. 

As  we  have  now  almoft  the  whole  length  of 
Germany  before  us  to  travel  through,  it  will  be 
proper,  before  I  pioceed  further,  to  give  you  a  ge- 
neral idea  of  the  conflicution  of  this  vc'ft  empire — 
over  all  which,  while  one  great  monarch  nominally 
prefidcs,  there  are  fpread  a  number  of  petty  poten- 
tates, who  really  rule  after  as  diftit:£i  forms  of  go- 
vernment as  almoft  any  two  governments,  however 
remote  in  Europe. 

Confiderincr  the  nature  of  government  abftra&ed- 
lv,  one  would  fuppofe  that  it  aroie  from  the  general 
will  of  the  focety  governed,  and  was  foimed  for 
their  uie  and  benefit  alone:  but  if  we  view  the  dif- 
ferent iyftems  fcattered  over  the  civilized  part  of 
the  earth,  we  fhall  find  that  they  originated  from 
force  and  fraud  ;  and  that,  in  their  fiilt  formation, 
when  bodily  proweis,  not  intellectual  power,  bore 
iway — when  he  that  could  carry  the  iliongeft  ar- 
mour, and  ftiike  the  heavieff.  blows,  was  lure  to 
govern — when  mere  animal  flrength  and  ferocity 
tiiiinherned  reaion  of  her  rights,  and  lobbed 
her  of  that  alcendeucy  to  which  the  invention  of 
gunpowder,  aided  bv  the  art  of  printing,  has  fi 
in  iorne  iort  rcftored  her — the  bahs  upon  which 


GERMAN  EMPIRE.  Si 

governments  were  raifed  was,  one  man,  not  the 
whole  fociety  ;  the  point  then  was.  how  this  or  that 
flrong  ruffian  could  collect  muff  Haves  about  him, 
not  how  this  or  that  fociety  fhould  choofe  the  beO; 
head  :  if  he  has  flrength  to  carry  havoc  through  the 
ranks  of  their  enemies,  and  then  to  overawe  them- 
felves.  he  was  fure  of  dominion  over  the1  people, 
and  left  it  to  his  fon  ;  but  if  it  fo  happened  that  he 
did  not  alio  bequeath  to  him  bodily  prowefs  to  pre- 
ferve  it,  the  next  ftrong  ruffian  feized  the  reins,. 
fling  him  from  his  feat  and  kept  it  till  he,  or  fome  one 
of  his  heirs,  was  again  ferved  fo  in  his  turn  by  fome 
©:her  ufurper.  Hence  arofe  the  cabals  and  intrigues 
of  courts,  the  fpirit  of  party,  and  interline  commo- 
tion ;  till  at  length  the  people,  for  their  own  iecu- 
rity,  and  to  avoid  the  horrors  of  civil  war,  made 
choice  (from  difmal  neceffity)  of  fome  one  family 
to  rule  them.  As  fociety  advanced,  and  opulence 
held  forth  temptation,  fome  greater  ruffian,  follow- 
ed by  a  horde  of  needy,  famifhed  barbarians,  made 
incurfions  on  thofe  rulers  ;  and  being  i.trefiilible,  as 
well  from  numbers  firmly  connected,  as  from  the 
powerful  impulfe  of  neceffity,  under  whole  banners 
they  generally  robbed  and  ravaged,  was  fubmitted 
to  en  terms,  and  became  Lord  Paramount  of  a  num- 
ber of  petty  fovereigns.  who  did  homage  to  him, 
and  fleeced  the  milerable  fubjecls,  to  keep  him  in 
humour  ;  and  thus,  in  a  leries-of  time,  the  power  of 
both  took  root,  and  remained  immoveable,  unlefs. 
when  torn  up  by  fome  violent  leutpeft  that  convuf- 
ed  the  ftate,  and  fnook  it  to  its  foundations. 

Reading  this  account,  you  will  very  naturally  ex- 
claim, '■  Good  God  !  how  abfuid  !  how  irrational  1" 
Yet  fo  it  is  ;  and  from  this  fource,  muddy  though  it 
be,  is  modern  honour,  and  modern  greatnefs,  and 
modern  high  blood,  derived  :  from  this  foul  and 
turbid  fountain  have  mod  of  the  governments  of  the 
world  iflued  ;  from  thofe  ftrong  men  of  yore  have 
rood  of  our  modern  governors  descended  :  and  as  it 


82  CONSTITUTION  OF  THE 

generally  happens  (fo  equally  has  Providence  crif- 
tiibuted  the  gifts  of  nature)  that  the  ftrength  of  the 
intellectual  pait  is  in  'he  mverle  ratio  of  the  ani- 
mal, perhaps  that  is  the  reaion  why  monarchs  are 
formed,  in  general,  of  greater  bodily  vigour  than 
mental  endowments,  and  better  fitted  for  the  field 
than  the  cabinet — and  for  this  reafon  are  obliged  to 
take  from  the  puilne  ranks  of  their  fubjects  Tome 
aiTiflant,  fo  far  removed  from  the  great  ftandard  of 
antique  dignity,  as  to  pofleis  understanding  enough 
to  govern. 

Upon  a  retrofprctive  view  of  the  Riftory  of  Eu- 
rope, it  will  be  found,  that  for  a  long  time  af'.er 
the  birth  of  Christ,  Germany  was  divided  amor.g 
fuch  petty  rulers  as  1  have  defcriled,  who  each 
held  his  little  Rate  in  fovereignty,  and  was  called 
Princeps  in  Latin,  or,  in  plain  Englifh,  Prince. 
After  the  downfal  of  the  We  (tern  Empire,  a  nation 
called  Franks,  from  that  part  called  Fr&nronia, 
over-ran  a  great  part  of  Gaul  and  Germany,  and  in 
the  fifth  century  took  pofieiiion  of  that  part  of 
Gaul  which  lay  north  of  the  river  Loire.  In  the 
year  8oo,  Charlemagne,  the  fon  of  Pepin, 
their  king,  formed  an  i'mfoenfe  empire  in  the  weft, 
comprehending  a  great  part  of  Germany,  Fiance, 
Italy,  and  a  part  of  Spain.  About  eighty  years  af- 
terwards, the  petty  princes  of  Germany  (hook  off 
the  French  Carlovinian  race,  and  elected  an  em- 
peror of  their  own  from  the  Houfe  of   Bavatia. 

At  laft  Henry  the  Fourth,  having  difpleafed  that 
grand  arbiter  the  Pope,  was  put  under  the  ban,  and 
in  confequence  depoied  by  the  Mates  ;  on  which 
cccafion  his  Holinels  had  the  acdieis  to  make  i. 
great  dignity  elective,  he  having  uncontroled  pow- 
t !  uver  the  electors  ;  fince  which  ii  has  continued 
fo,  with  fome  modifications,  and  under  certain  re- 
gulations, formed  by  Charles  the  P'ourth.  at  the 
I  of  Nurembeig.  The  election,  however,  has 
been  always  fo  managed,  that  it  has   never  depaited 


GERMAN   EMPIRE.  8* 

from  the  regular  line  of  fucceiTion  but   when  there 
was  an  actual  want  of  heirs. 

In  a  country  over  which  the  Pope  had  fuch  in- 
fluence, it  might  reasonably  be  lap  poled  that  into- 
lerance is  carried  to  a  great  length  ;  but  it  is  not  fo, 
as  a  review  of  each  particular  (late  (hews.  The 
eftalimeo  rei  gi<  n,  in  general,  is  Popery.  Joseph; 
the  Second,  that  good  and  wife  raonarh,  di (played 
a  greater  ipirit  of  toleiation  than  any  other  Catholic 
prince  fince  Henry  the  Fourth  of  France.  He 
was  not  murdered  by  a  friar  for  ir,  it  is  true — thofe 
days  of  •  pious  barbarity  are  pad  ;  but  he  was  vifi- 
ted  on  the  occ  Hon  by  his  Holinefs,  who,  after  a 
variety  of  remonilrances  againft  the  relaxation  he 
give  to  religious  feverity  in  his  own  dominions, 
finding  him  unmoved  by  papers,  refolved  to  attack 
him  in  perfon  ;  but,  whether  it  was  that  the  pon- 
tifical amulet  loft  its  charm  when  out  of  the  air 
of  Rome,  or  that  his  Holinefs  was  not  properly 
anointed  before  (like  Hecate  in  Macbeth)  he  took 
his  flight,  ot  that  he  forgot  fome  of  thole  reliques 
which  were  expected  to  operate  on  Joseph's  mmd, 
lo  it  was,  that  the  good  emperor  continued  Inflexi- 
bly attached  to  his  former  refo'.ve  ;  and,  after  k:fT- 
in^  his  Holinefs'  toe,  and  a  thouland  other  pre  v 
politenefl.es,  fent  him  back  to  Rome  again  with 
finger  in  his  mouth  ;  and  a  (lory  to  relate,  that 
would,  at  one  time,  have  fet  all  Europe  in  a  fLme, 
and  fent  the  good  monarch,  like  Henry  the  Se- 
cond cf  England,  to  lafh  himielf  naked  over  the 
rotten  remains  of  fome  vagabond  f.  aucjuj^ent  juried. 

In  the  ele&icm  of  emperor,    the  laws  of  the  em- 
pire have  laid  down  no  opacification  but  that  w] 
ought  to  be  Cazjhie  qua  aori  of  all  p  iely3 

that  he  b?  jnfius.  bonus ,  ct  i.tiU.i — Neither  ha^ye  they 
made  any  limitation   in    regani    to  ,    nation, 

ftate,  or  age ;  neveriheleU,  the  jnajp  ity  pi  el.  Ct  >rs 
being  Pap; (Is,  a  Roman  Catholic  prince  isai-.vays 
cholen. 


84  CONSTITUTION  OF  THE 

The  rank  of  the  emperor  is  very  great  :  he  is 
looked  upon  by  all  crowned  heads  as  the  f>\  ft  Euro- 
pean potentate  ;  a  ..,  as  fuch,  precedence  is  always 
given  him  and  his  ambafhuiors  :  he  :s  the  fupreme 
head  of  the  German  empire;  but  his  powd  in  the 
admin  iteration  thereof  is  very  limited  indeed.  In 
ancient  fir  es,  the  emperor  had  considerable  do- 
mains rind  incomes;  but  warfare  and  prodigality 
have  diffipated  the  greater!  part  of  them,  and  they 
have  been  luccefiively  alienated  or  mortgaged,  io 
that  his  revenues  were  very  incoiifideiable  lately, 
arid  now,  fince  the  French  war,  are  almofl  as 
nothing. 

The  prefent  emperor  Franc  is  found  the  empire, 
vhen  he  was  elected,  incumbent  with  difficulties  or 
the  mod  enormous  magnitude — 3  war  on  which  'he 
exi  Hence  of  every  monaichv  in  Europe  fcemed  to 
depend,  an  exhaufted  treafury,  and  a  difpofition  to 
revolt  in  a  part  of  his  dominions,  the  Netherlands. 
Ar  this  prcient  time,  his  (ituation  is,  beyond  that  of 
every  other  prince,  lamentable  :---almoil  all  h is  re- 
iources  gone,  and  an  infolent,  formidable,  triumph- 
ant enemy,  proceeding  and  carrying  conqueft  by 
rapid  (Hides  through  his  country.  He  called  upon 
h:s  people  to  fupport  him.  The  ftates  of  the  Ne- 
therlands, in  (lead  of  afiifi.ing  him  to  flop  the  pro- 
greis  of  the  enemy,  invited  and  opened  their  gates 
to  them,  put  them  in  then  bofem,  and  were  (lung. 
Of  the  other  dates,  i'orr.e  refute  their  aid,  while 
lome  have  recourl'e  to  Feeble  expedients;  and,  to 
evade  the  weight,  temporife,  procr^ftinate,  and  fhuf- 
fl^.  till  at  length  will  come  the  French  army,  and 
force  them  to  do  for  their  enemy  ten  times  more 
than  (if  cone  timely,  and  with  a  good  grace)  might 
lave  the  empire  and  thcmielvcs.  The  King  of 
Prussia,  one  cf  thole  ftates,  on  being  called  up- 
on, lays  he  is  bufily  employed  in  iecuring  the  plun- 
der of  Poland,  and  cannot  come — while  the  tygcr 
is  glutting  in  the  biooci  of  the  haimlels  flocks,  the 


GERMAN  EMPIRE.  85 

huntfmen  are  coming  upon  htm,  to  cut  him  off, 
As  an  Englishman,  zealous  for  tnc  welfare  of  my 
country,  I  wifh  the  King  of  Prussia  may  not, 
by  his  attention  to  Poland,  facriftce  all  G  or  many  to 
the  French.  As  an  honed  man,  I  cmnot  a;lp  en- 
tertaining a  wifh,  that  the  fcandalous  and  outrage- 
ous wrongs  done  to  Polsnd,  and  this  treachery  to 
the  allies  whom  he  himfelf  brought  in*o  the  prelcnt 
difficulties,  may  be  expiated  by  any  calamity,  how* 
ever  great,  that  does  not  extend  to  the  intcreft  or 
wellbeingof  Europe. 

It  is  a  maxim  in  courts  of  equity,  that  a  man 
coming  to  demand  redress,  fhould  com*  with  clean 
hands,  and,  feeking  equity,  fhould  do  equity. 
This  maxim  has  unfortunately  never  yet  extended 
to  decisions  between  ftate^s  ;  power  is  their  right, 
and  force  decides — Yet,  in  a  conted  like  the  prc- 
fent,  the  very  foundation  of  which  is  hoftility  to 
-kings,  and  which  is  carried  on  in  the  twofold  way 
of  arms,  in  the  open  field,  and  private  negociation 
for  infurrcftion  ;  when,  for  the  intered  of  the 
caufe  thev  eipoule,  as  well  as  their  own  perfonai 
fafcty7  kings  Ihould  aflame  at  once  their  bed  form 
to  appreciate  them!elves,  and  diicredit  their  ene- 
mies in  the  eyes  of  mankind  —  in  fuch  a  Hate  of 
things,  I  lay,  for  the  King  of  Prussia  and  the 
Empress  of  .'Russia  to  take  the  pajt  thry  have 
done  with  regard  to  Poland,  is  io  extravagant,  that 
we  can  only  account  for  it  in  the  will  of  the  Al- 
mighty ptcdiipofing  them  for  Icme  ex  taoidinary 
cnh.s.  No  one  would  expect  them  to  depart  fron^lf 
the;r  accudomed  crooked  path  of  policy,  if  iafe'y 
did  not  loudly  call  upon  them  to  proceed  in  the 
duett  road.  It  is  mondrous-  to  fee  beings  endowed 
with  common  fenie,  expending  themieives  in  an 
unjid  druggie  for  aggrandizement,  while  the 
fword  of  extinction  is  iufpended  by  a  hair  over 
their  heads. 

H 


&6  REFLECTIONS  AT  LIEGE. 

But  to  return — in  this  Mate  is  the  young  emperor 
at  this  moment,  deferted  by  his  people  in  the  Low 
Countries,  unaided  by  his  Continental  ally,  and 
fupported  only  by  Great  Britain.  What  the  iffue 
may  be,  God  alone  can  tell  :  but  every  one  pof- 
feffing  a  heart  of  feeling,  or  a  fingle  fentiment  of 
honour  or  juftice,  mud  wifh  that  young  prince  a 
fortunate  delivery  from  the  difficulties  which  the 
impolicy  and  wickednefs  of  others  have  led  him  in- 
to, and  which  the  treachery  of  fome  of  them  make 
more  formidable,    if  not  utterly  infuperable. 


LETTER    XV. 


h 


JL  HE  various  diitri&s  or  territories  inte 
#Vuch  Germany  is  divided,  go  under  a  variety  of 
defignafions,  not  known  among  us  as  independent 
titles  to  power — principalities,  (eigniories,  counties, 
electorates,  margravates,  and  bifhoprics  lay  and  fpi- 
ritual.  Of  the  lay  bifhoprics,  Olnaburg,  the  prince 
bifnop  of  which  is  our  Duke  of  York,  makes 
one  :  and  Liege,  where  we  are  now  arrived  is  the 
teuitory  of  a  bifhop  lay  and  fpiritual,  or  fpiritual 
and  temporal,  one  of  the  faireft  kind  of  that  clafs 
— for  he  poffcfTes  temporalities,  and  enjoys  them  ; 
\vhere2S  their  lordfhips  merely  fpiriiual,  enjoy  and 
ave  the  ingratitude  and  impudence  to  renounce 
them  :  but  no  matter  for  that ;  the  bifhop  of  Liege 
poiTrfles  a  bifhopric,  fruitful  in  corn,  wine,  wood, 
and  pafture,  with  air  extremely  pleafant  and  tem- 
perate ;  and  while  the  latter  gives  his  teneftrial 
clay  health  and  appetite,  the  former  afford  him  the 
rreans  of  preferving  the  one,  and  indulging  the 
other,  with  true  fpiritual  comfort,  and  high  eccle- 
fiafticzl  voluptuoufnefs.     In  cales  of  repletion,  too, 


REFLECTIONS  AT  LIEGE.  By 

the  mineral  waters  of  the  bifhopric,  particularly 
the  well-known  one  of  Spa,  offer  their  aid  ;  and 
fome  of  the  bed  beer  in  the  world,  which  is  brew- 
ed in  thefe  territories  diveriiftes  his  Ipiritual  Lord- 
fhip's  cup,  and,  with  its  pungent  bitter,  fends 
back  his  palate  to  his  wine  with  renovated  reiifh. 

It  is  aftonifhing  how  incor.fiflent  with  them- 
felves,  and  how  diicordant  in  their  conftituent  prin- 
ciples, fome  very  wife  inftitutions  are.  Thus  cpi(- 
fopacy,  and  all  other  branches,  pods  or  rank?,  high 
or  low,  commidioned  or  non-com;niffioned,  of  the 
church,  publicly  and  fyltemat  lolly  profels  poverty, 
abftinence,  and  an  utter  indifference  to  temporal 
concerns,  while  their  livings  are  enormous,  and, 
themfelves  overfed.  Nay,  fo  cautioufly  has  eccle- 
fiaftical  law  provided  for  that,  even  in  our  liberal 
eftablifhments,  that  a  bifhop,  at  his  inftalment,  po- 
iitively  declares,  in  the  face  of  God,  at  the  holy 
altar,  that  he  is  averfe  to  being  a  bifnop — nolo  cpif- 
(Opari — Under  fuch  conditions,  what  mull  not  the 
charity,  the  condefcenfron,  the  mortifying  fubmif- 
fion  of  a  divine  be,  to  ftoop  to  a  bifnopric,  and 
fufTer  fuch  a  heavy  load  to  he  heaped  upon  his 
back — againft  his  will  \  Afiuredly,  the  impofing  a 
feilhopiic  upon  him  mull  be  a  great  act  of  violence 
on  his  inclinations  :  for  I  cannot  think  it  poffible 
that  a  Chriftian  divine  would,  in  the  fir  ft  place, 
commit  the  crime  of  fimony  by  fee  king  prefermen-, 
and  gaining  it  by  proftitution  ;  much  lels  can  I  be- 
lieve that  he  would  be  guilty,  at  the  holy  altar,  of 
a  folemn  aft  of  perjury,  by  {wearing  nolo  epifcopari, 
if  he  was  not  actually,  and  bondf.de,  averle  to  a 
bifhopric. 

The  bifhop  of  Liege,  however,  may  be  fairly 
acquitted  on  the  fcore  of  his  temporal  half,  for  the 
ff»3ie  of  tranfgreflkms  committed  by  his  Ipiritual' 
half.  And  unqueftionably,  asaChiiftian  diving 
he  mud  groan  in  Ipiritual  humiliation,  when  he 
ft&s&»  that  his  tide  is  emblazoned  with  the  gorge- 


REFLECTIONS  AT  LIEGE. 

«us  vanities  of  prinee  of  Liege,  duke  of  Bouillon, 
marquis  of  Franchemont.  count  of  Locz,  &c.  Such 
a  let  of  proud  .worldly  titles  ate  of  themielves  iuf- 
£cient  (putting  the  wine  and  beer,  and  repletion, 
Out  of  the  quedion)  to  annihilate  the  ipiriiual  me- 
rits of  the  biihop,  and  expunge  the  grace  of  Goo 
from  hi*  name  here,  if  not  from  himlelf  hereafter. 

Of  all  kinds  of  fiavery,  that  nation  groans  be-* 
r.rath  the  word,  which  has  the  name,  without  the 
rfferice,  of  a  free  conflitutton  ;  and  Germany 
abounds  with  fuch.  By  the  con  dilution  of  this 
bilbopric,  the  government  com  fills  of  three  Hates, 
the  fhft  is  the  chapter  of  Liege  ;  the  iecond,  lire 
nobility  •  and  ti.e  third,  the  deputies  of  the  towns 
ah  Thcie,  however,  ate  very  leidom  call- 
ed together,  except  to  ro.ijc  tcxts^  or  on  lome  fuch 
extraordinary  emergency  :  but  there  is  a  committee 
of  the  dates  who  meet  thiee  times  a-week,  and  in 
time  of  war  daily  ;  they  are  always  about  the  prince 
Lilhop.  to  make  remon  (trances,  and  demand  the 
ledicis  of  grievances — from  whence  we  may  rea- 
ibnabiv  infer,  tl.a  the  people  aie  well  protected, 
or  at  'e^tl  wcli  g<  v  roed  :  the  continual  inteicourfe 
between  the  committee  and  bifiiops.  no  doubt, 
tending  to  promote  a  very  happy  influence  in  fa- 
vour of  the  people  ! 

In  forming  this  conllitution.  fpecial  care  has  been 
taken  to  give  the  firfi.  ftaie  a  great  preponderance.. 
The  chapter  is  to  conii it  of  fiatty  perion?,  who  muit 
cither  prove  their  nobility  'for  four  generations, 
both  by  father  and  mother,  or  have  been  d  octets 
or  licentiates  of  divinity  tor  leven  years,  or  of  law 
for  five  years,  in  fome  famous  univetfity,  before 
they  can  be  admitted. 

..  How  is  it  that  the  profefTion  of  the  law  fhould 
bear  inch  potent  (way  in  aim  oft  all  countries — that 
even  in  Liege,  a  Catholic  countiy  and  ecclefiafUcal 
government,  live  yeans  ftudy  of  the  law  fhould  be 
ied  an  equal  qualification  of  leven  of  dv 


REFLECTIONS  AT  LIEGE.  89 

In  England,  and  its  dependencies,  the  afcendancy 
of  the  Ijw  is  flill  greater  ;  and  even  in  America, 
that  profeflion  is  the  hrll  Rep  to  Rate  honours. 
The  truth  is,  that  the  icience  of  the  law,  which, 
however  ciefpicable  in  practice,  is  the  nobleft  of 
human  fciences,  quickens  and  invigorates  the  un- 
derRanding  more  than  all  the  other  kinds  of  learn- 
ing put  together  ;  while  the  Rudy  of  divinity  (I 
do  not  mean  real  divinity  or  morality,  but  that 
whimfical  iumble  of  miracles  and  incongruities,  of 
fullorne  cant  and  ienieleis  rhapi'ody,  called  10  by 
churchmen)  contracts  the  undei  Randing,  and  benda 
it  into  a  kind  of  cro  >ked  cunning.  Formerly,  the 
clergy  were  the  dilpenfers  of  the  laws,  and  they 
alone  Rudied  it — Happy  times  !  happy  people  ! 
When  the  united  powers  of  both  lawyers  and 
priefts  were  lodged  in  the  fame  perionv  it  is  no 
wonder  that  they  were  able  to  enflave  the  perlons, 
when  they  had  got  poflfttTion  of  the  underRanding, 
of  the  people — that  we  at  this  day  fee  fo  many  Ru- 
pendous  monuments  remaining  of  their  pride  and 
power,  and  that  the  bloated  load  of  •  epil'copacy  dill 
has  its  votaries  ami  lupporiers. 

The  bifhopt  ic  of  Liege  is  very  populous  and  ex- 
tend ve,  containing  many  large  towns,  many  baro- 
nies and  ieigniories,  ieventeen  abbeys  for  men,  who 
mud  be  all  gentlemen,  and  eieven  for  ladies,  ex- 
clufive  of  (warms  of  inferior  note.  In  this  diRri- 
bution  of  the  abbeys,  maie  and  female,  I  do  not 
think  that  fufiicient  regard  has  been  had  to  eauality 
of  numbers  :  I  really  think  the-  fathers  have  beea 
ill  ufed.  The  ladies,  though,  I  dare  fay,  are  well 
enough  contented  with  the  arrangement. 

Although,  as  I  have  already  apprized  you.  I  do 
not  mean  to  enter  into  a  minute  defcripticn  of 
towns,  '0  very  eafily  found  in  many  volumes  of 
geography  and  hiitoiy,  there  occafionally  occur  cer- 
tain cunofities  in  fome  of  thole  towns,  which  it 
would  be  unuardoiuble  in  me  to  oafs  over,  as  ihcy 

H  2 


)*  REFLECTIONS  AT  LIEGE. 

mu'  not  pei haps  be  found  in   fuch    books    of  thofe 
fcicr.ces  as  fall  in  your  way. 

I/pf,  the  capiul  of  the  bifhopric,  is  unquefli- 
onably  a  beautiful  city,  of  immenle  (ize  :  its  opu- 
lence, i's  pleaiantneis,  its  plenty,  and  falubrity, 
may  be  calculated  fiom  the  name  it  has  long  been 
exnreisly  called  by  way  of  eminence — the  Paradifc 
&f  Pritfts. — Indeed,  it  mud  needs  be  a  holy  and 
happy  city  ;  for  it  is  chiefly  occupied  with  con- 
Vents,   churches,  and  other  religious  foundations. 

Tht  Paradife  of  Prief.s  /—Excellent  !  Why,  if 
the  genius  or  lenluality  himlelf  were  to  torture  his 
invention  for  centuries,  to  fliike  out  an  appella- 
tion for  the  grand  emporium  of  luxury,  voluptu- 
oulneis;  and  leniual  enjoyment,  he  could  not  have 
hit  on  one  io  tingularly  appropriate  as  the  Paradifi 
of  Pritjls. 

In  a  p.tand  cathedral  here,  are  five  great  Hlver 
ehrits  full  of  reliques,  beftdes  ieveral  filver  ftatuefr 
of  faints;  and  a  Saint  Geoice  on  horieback,  of 
rr.sify  gold;  and  in  Saint  William's  Convent, 
Without  {.he  city,  is  the  tomb  of  the  famous  Englifh 
traveller,  Sir  John  Masdevilli,  from  whom 
all  lying  travellers  have  been  fince  proverbially 
called  Mandeviltes — an  appellation  which,  I  pro- 
mile  you,  I  will  haxard  the  imputation  of  dulnefs 
lather  than  incur.  I  fuppole  it  was  for  his  truly 
pruftlike  powers  in  the  marvellous  that  he  was  ho- 
noured with  a  birth  among  their  rcveiences.  They 
have  thought  it  nectffiry,  however,  to  entieat,  by 
an  inlet  ipuon  in  bad  French,  all  perions  who  lee 
it,  to  pray  for  his  loul.  In  truth,  poor  Sir  John's 
marvellous  ftories  were  as  harmleis  as  ever  were 
invented,  and  entertaining  to  boot.  If  lo  much 
could  be  laid  for  their  reveiences,  they  might  ven- 
ture to  reft  their  future  fafety  on  their  own  inno- 
cence and  God's  mercy:  but  I  fear  their  rniiaclea 
cut  deeper,  and  will  be  found  to  go  to  a  mucil 
moie  important  and  ienous  account. 


ARRIVAL  AT  AIX-LA-CHAPELLE.     9* 

In  the  biftiopric  of  Liege,  twenty  miles  from 
the  capital,  (lands  the  famous  town  of  Spa,  {o  re- 
nowned for  its  excellent  waters,  that  it  has  become 
a  vulgar  name  for  almoft  all  mineral  watets  whatso- 
ever. Thofe  are  faid  to  open  obfttuftions,  concoft 
crudities,  dry  up  exceflive  moiftjre,  and  ftrengthen 
the  nerves  and  bowels  ;  and  luch  is  their  reputa- 
tion, that  prodigious  quantities  of  them  are  carried 
into  foreign  countries. 

Fortunate  coincidence,  to  have  fuch  a  choice  and 
eafv  panacea  for  intemperance  attached  to  the  Para- 
difi  of  Priefls  ! 


LETTER    XVI. 


A 


IX-la-Chafeli.e — The  imperial  city 
of  Aix-la-Chapelle,  by  the  Germans  called  Achen, 
lies  at  the  diftance  of  twenty-fix  miles,  nearly  eaft, 
of  Liege.  A>  it  was  a  moderate  fiage,  the  weather 
fine,  and  the  face  of  the  country  around  beautiful, 
I  found  my  journev  extremely  plealant,  and  enieiecl 
that  famous  city  in  as  good  a  dilpofition  to  he  pleaied 
with  it,  as  circumftances  and  reflections  io  melan- 
choly as  mine  (which,  in  lpite  of  every  effort, 
would  intrude  themielves)  may  be  fuppoled  to 
allow.  It  is  certainly  a  very  fine  city,  and  well 
defeives  the  reputation  it  has  in  all  parts  of  the 
wot  Id. 

Perhaps  no  city  in  Germany  has  a  fairer  claim  to 
antiquity  than  Aix-la-Chapelle  ;  for  it  was  famous, 
even,  in  the  time  of  the  ancient  Romans,  for  its 
waters,  and  was  by  them  oiled  Aquifgranum.  or 
XJrbs  Aqiienfis.  It  was  deftn.yeu  b>  the  H  tus, 
who,  like  the  Fiench  now,  dc  droved  and  turn  Ljd 
under  foot  every  vefti^e  of  itfinemcntj  Wherever 


92     ARRIVAL  AT  AIX-LA-CHAPEI  LE, 

they  canieri  their  conquefh;  and  it  lay  in  ruins  till 
it  was  icbuih  by  Charlbiagne.  who  made  i:  the 
feat  of  his  empire  on  this  due  of  the  Alps.  By 
him  it  was  oidained,  the  kings  of  the  Romans 
fhould  be  crowned  there:  and  it  has  been  famous, 
lince  that  time-,  for  councils  and  treaties,  particu- 
larly that  famous  one  between  France  and  Spain  in 
1663,  and  another  lately  between  Fiance  and  Great 
Britain. 

Although  there  are  many  Proteilants,  both  Lu- 
therans and  Calvinifts,  in  this  city,  they  are  obli- 
Iigetl  to  go  to  church  two  miles  off,  at  a  place  called 
Vaels,  in  the  dutchy  of  Limburg  ;  lo  that  Popery 
prevails  with  fome  portion  of  its  intolerance.  Here, 
as  in  all  other  places  fubjec~t  to  its  power.,  it  has 
railed  the  Gothic  gloomy  pile,  accumulated  enor- 
mous mafies  of  wealth,  and  hoarded  up  treafures, 
under  the  gulfing  pretexts  of  religious  parapherna- 
lia :  a  golden  cafket,  let  with  precious  flones  of 
ineftimable  value,  is  hoarded  up,  not  for  the  a&ual 
value  of  the  moveable,  but  as  the  only  fit  recepta- 
cle for  a  relique  it  contains — a  curious  one,  too, 
even  of  its  kind — a  bit  of  earth  [ — A  bit  cf  earth  ? 
yes  !  a  bit  of  earth,  common  ea>th  ! — only  with 
this  fortunate  circumdance  in  addition,  that  a  drop 
of  the  blood  of  Saint  Stephen  fell,  or  is  faid  to 
have  fallen,  upon  it,  as  he  was  Honed  to  death  I 
think  of  that,  mafter  Frederick  !  Why,  when 
thofe  things  occur  to  me-,  I  feel  myfelf  agitated  by 
a  whimfical  tumult  of  fenlations,  ierious  and  ludi- 
crous, for  row  fur  and  merry,  that  it  is  impolTible  to 
deicribe — lomething  like  that  flare  in  which  the 
fpirits  flutter  when  a  perfon  whimpers  between  a 
Isugh  and  ciy.  But,  to  cany  the  matter  farther, 
when  we  recolhct  that  lome  of  the  wiled  and 
blighted  of  mankind,  (ome  of  the  braved  wairiors, 
fterneft  philoiophers,  and  abled  datelmen,  that 
ever  ex  i  (ted,  have  been  the  dupes  of  thole  (hallow 
artificer?,  and  a&u&lly  have  knelt  in  devout  homage 


ARRIVAL  AT  AIX-LA-CHAPELLE.    93 

to  thefe  bits  of  earth,  bone,  flicks,  and  Hone,  &c. 
we  mud  allow  that  it  anfwers  a  great  and  noble  end, 
by  pointing  out  to  us  the  infirmity  of  our  nature, 
and  fhewing  us,  to  ufe  the  words  of  one  of  our 
brightefl  luminaries,  "  what  fhadows  we  are,  and 
what  fhadows  we  purfue  !" 

We  have  already  had,  and  are  likely  yet  to  have' 
fuch  a  clumiy  load  of  cathedrals  lo  attend  to,  that 
I  fhould  not  mention  that  of  Aix-la-Chapelle  (a 
large,  gloomy,  dreary,  o!d-fafhioned,  Gothic  pile), 
were  it  not  that  it  carries  along  with  it  tome  matters 
worthy  of  notice.  What  think,  you,  then,  of  an 
emperor,  a  pope,  and  three  hundred  and  iixtv-five 
bifhops,  in  one  company  ?  Oh  !  precious  alrjm- 
blage  !  But  where,  1  hear  you  afk — where,  in  the 
name  of  Gob,  collect  the  bifhops  ?  a  pope  and 
emperor  are  cafily  had  !  My  dear  Frederick, 
three  hundred  and  fixty-five  bifhops  might  cafily  be 
picked  up  in  Chriftendom.  and  leave  more  behind, 
too,  than  would  ferve  any  ufeful  purpole  to  the 
world. — Yes,  the  Emperor  Charlemagne,  and 
three  hundred  and  fixty-five  bifhops,  were;  prelent 
at  the  confecration  of  this  cahed  a)  by  Pope  Leo 
the  Third.  That  emperor  lies  now  in  great  (lata 
under  the  altar  of  the  choir:  Pope  Leo  rots  111 
Rom;  ;  arcd  for  the  bifhops,  they  are  gone,  per- 
haps,, as  HamUt  lays,   "  to  ftop  a  beer  barrel." — 

•*  Th*  imperial  Cesar,  dead,  and  turn'd  to  clay, 
Might  Hop  a  hole,  to  keep  the  wind  away  " 

From  fuch  a  fplendid  and  opulent  attendance  at 
the  conicciation,  one  would  naturally  expect  that 
this  cathedral  would  have  been,  at  the  very  outlet," 
enriched  with  coit/'y  and  valuable  trappings:  but 
no--- one  ima^e  of  that  of  Liege  would  pn  chafe  the 
whole.  It  fhould  be  recollected,  however,  that 
they  were  ali,  excepting  the  emperor,  Churchman 
—a  claf,,  whole  charity,  geneially  lpeaking.  ha*, 
iike  a-ringj  neither  end  nor  beginning  ;    or   at  leali 


94     ARRIVAL  AT  AIX-LA-CHAPELLE. 

ends  and  begins  in  itfelf,  where  nobody  can  fee  it  ; 
or,  according  to  the  old  proveib,   begins  at  home. 

To    compeniate,    however,    for    tnofe    worldly, 
worthlefs    vanities,    gold,    filver,    and   jewels,    his 
Holinefs,  and    their  three  hundred   and  fixty-five 
Graces,   prefented  the  cathedral  with    lome    exqui- 
site  pieces   of  relique,  of  more   ineftimable  value, 
by  their  account,   than  the  mines  of  Potofi  or  Gol- 
conda  :   the  firft,  an  old  covering — it  would  be  folly 
for  me  to  fay,   whether  gown,   petticoat,  or  fhift — 
but  they,  that  is   to   fay,   the    priefts.   fay,  and   the 
faithful  believe  them,  that  it  was  the  fhift  worn  by 
the  Virgin  Mary   at  the   birth  of  Christ — ho\\r 
their   HolineiTes  came  by  it,   is  hard  to  conjecture: 
—  in  the  next  place,  a  piece  of  coarfe  cloth,  which, 
they  alio  fay,  and  are  believed  when  they   fay,  was 
girt  about   Christ   on    the  crofs:   thirdly,  apiece 
of  cord,  with   which   they   fay   he    was   bound  :— » 
fourthly,  fome   of  the   blood    of  Saint    Stephen', 
now  eighteen  hundred  years   old  \ — and,   fifthly,  a 
pi&utc    of  the   Virgin   and    Child,   embofted  on  a 
jaiper,  by  Saint  Luke.      With  all  due  deference  to 
their  Reverences'  knowledge,    I  fhouid  think  a  do- 
zen flatues  in  gold  of  the  apoftles  would    be  rather 
a  more  valuable    gift,  and    more   ornamental,   than 
thefe  rags  and  cords,   which  1  dare  fay  did  not  coft 
altogether  fix   pence.     We   talk   here  of  our  blue 
libbons,  our  red  ribbons,  and  our  ftars  as  great  do- 
nations ;   but  I  think  the  prefents  of  the  Pope  and 
three    hundred  and  fixty-nve  bifeops  to  the  cathe- 
dial'of  Aix-la-Ghapelle,  beat  them  out  of  the  field, 
whether  we  confider  the  magnificence  of  the  gift, 
or  the  generofity  of  the  givers. 

But  that  which,  above  all  things,  renders  Aix. 
la-Chapelle  worthy  of  notice,  is  the  falubrity  of  its 
waters,  which  bring  from  England,  and  all  other 
European  nations,  a  van.  concouile  of  valetudina. 
rians,  who  contribute  at  once  to  the  gaiety  and 
©pulence  of  the  city  and  adjacent  country-     Some 


ARRIVAL  AT  AIX-LA-CHAPELLE.     95 

•f  thofc  waters  are  ufed  for  drinking,  and  others 
for  bathing,  reiembling  very  much,  in  their  qua- 
lity, the  virtues  of  thole  of  Bath  in  Somer .ferfnire, 
but  that  lome  of  them  are  ftill  hotter  and  fhonger: 
they  are  unplealant  to  the  tafle  till  ufe  reconciles 
the  palate  to  them,  and  mod  of  them  have  a  very 
offenfive  (mell ;  but  they  are  often  powerful  ia 
effe£t.,  and  give  relief  in  a  great  variety  of  mala- 
dies ;  and  they  are  rendered  ftill  more  palatable  by 
the  commodious  neatnefs  of  the  baths,  the  excel- 
lence of  the  accommodations,  and  the  great  plenty 
of  provifions,  which  are  at  once  good  and  reafona- 
blc  in  this  city. 

I  ftaid  fo  fhort  a  time  at  Aix-la-Chapelle,  that'  I 
could  not,  without  the  aid  of  lome  of  the  miracles 
wrought  by  the  faints  of  the  Romifh  church,  or 
Sir  John  Mandeville,  acquire  a  fufficient 
knowledge  of  the  people,  to  attempt  a  deienption 
of  them,  or  their  manners — but  it  and  Spa  are  fo 
well  known,  that  you  cannot  have  much  trouble  in 
finding  a  defcription  of  them  already  written. 

As  far  as  my  obiervations  enabled  me  to  judge, 
there  was  nothing  in  the  German  character  that  had 
the  power  either  to  create  intereft,  or  excite  great 
attention.— They  are  rather  to  be  approved  than 
admired;  and,  wanting  thofe  prominent  features 
that  fo  whimfically  chequer  other  nations  with  the 
extremes  of  bad  and  good,  majeftic  and  ridiculous, 
afford  little  fubjett  to  the  traveller  for  the  indul- 
gence of  fentimental  re{KQ:on,  or  to  the  phiioi* 
ph#r  for  the  cxerciie  of  moral  fpeculation. 


96         REFLECTIONS  AT  JULIERS. 


LETTER     XVII. 


B 


'IDDING  adieu  to  the  famous  city  of 
Aix-la-Chapelle,  which,  very  untraveiler-:ike,  I 
palTed  without  drinking  of  its  waters,  I  pufhed  on, 
and  loon  arrived  at  the  city  of  Juliers,  the  capital 
of  a  dutchy  of  that  name,  fixteen  miles  from  Aix« 
1  he  country  itielf  is  wonderfully  fruitful,  teeming 
with  abundance  of  all  forts  of  corn,  wood,  paflure, 
woad,  coal,  and  cattle  ;  above  all,  a  moft  excellent 
breed  of  hories,  of  which  great  numbers  are  ex- 
ported. 

As  to  the  city,  though  a  capital,  there  was  no- 
thing in  it  that  I  thought  worth  attention-— that  of 
neatne  s  is  its  greateft  praife.  It  is  not,  Ike  Liege, 
overloaded  wi  h  enormous  church  edifices  ;  but, 
what  is  much  better,  the  people  are  opulent,  the 
poor  well  fupplied,  and  all  happy.  In  all  likeli- 
hood, this  is  owing  to  the  inhabitants  being  a  mix- 
ture of  Protefbnt  and    Roman  Catholic  ;    for,  by  a 

-  y  between    the  Ele£tor  Palaiine    and    the    Em- 

>f    Brandenburg,   refpc  fling    the  iucceiTion  of 

ritoties    of   the    Duke  of  Cleves.  "both    the 

Li  herans    and    Calviniils  of  this   dutchy,   and   of 

Berg,   are  to  enjoy  the  public  exerciie  of  their  relt- 

■  d  all  other  religious  rites. 

If  txperiet  cc  would  allow  us  to  wonder  at  any 
thing  in  she  management  of  ihe  rulers  of  nations, 
i:  mufl  finely  be  natter  of  aftonifhrnent,  that  in 
an  aiticlc  of  fuch  confequence  as  eternity,  and 
Which  mull  be  directed  by  private  ientimens  alone, 
luch  violence  fhouid  ivfiematically  be  offered  to 
opinion,  and  that  mankind  fhouid  be  dragoone  ., 
as  they  have  been  for  io  many  weary  centuries,  into 


REFLECTIONS  AT  JULIERS.         97 

the  profeffion  of  particular  modes  of  faith.  Com- 
bating opinion  by  foice  is  lo  ablurd,  that  I  am  lure 
thole  who  attempted  it,  never  could  flatter  them- 
selves with  the  flighted  hopes  of  luccefr.  It  is 
therefore  clear,  that  it  was  in  motives  very  different 
from  real  willies  for  the  eternal  welfare  of  man's 
foul,  that  religious  persecution  originated.  Politi- 
cal nnefle  and  date  dratagem  are  the  parents  of 
perfecufion  :  and  until  every  conditution  is  clean 
purged  of  religious  prejudices,  it  mud  continue  to 
be  clogged  with  obdiuclions,  and  involved  in  con- 
fufion.  If  it  be  objected  that  certain  religious  feels 
are  hodile  to  certain  dates,  it  may  be  aufwered, 
that  they  are  fo  becauie  the  date  is  hodile  to  them. 
Ceafe  to  perlecute,  and  they  will  ceale  to  be  hof- 
tile— Sub'ata  caufa  tollitur  efftclus.  It  is  folly, 
broad  folly,  to  luppole  that  there  are  in  any  parti- 
cular religion,  feeds  of  hodility  to  government, 
any  more  than  in  any  particular  name,  complexion, 
itature,  or  colour  of  the  hair.  Put,  for  experi- 
ment, all  the  men  in  the  kingdom,  of  above  five 
feet  ten  inches  high,  under  teds  and  disqualifica- 
tions, (and  it  would  be  full  as  rational  as  any  other 
teds) — And,  my  life  for  it,  they  would  becume 
hodile,  and  veryjudly,  too;  for  there  is  no  prin- 
ciple, human  or  divine,  that  enforces  our  attneh- 
i  1  :nt  to  irfat  government  which  refutes  us  protec- 
tion, much  leis  to  that  wh;ch  brands  us  with  dis- 
qualifications, and  digmatiles  us  with  unmerited 
marks  of  inferiority.  « 

Tne  dates  of  this  dutchy,  and  that  of  Berg,  cm  - 
fid  of  the  nobilny  and  the  deputies  of  the  four 
chief  towns  of  each  ;  and  they  lay  claim  to  great 
privileges  in  their  diets — but  they  aie  tubjr-tr.  to  the 
6lor  Palatine,  to  whom  they  annually  grant  a 
Certain  turn  for  the  ordinary  charges  of  the  govern- 
ment be  fides  another  which  bear;;  the  name  of  a 
f:oe  gift. 

I 


98         REFLECTIONS  AT  JULIERS. 

Some  authors  fay  that  this  town  was  founded  by 
Julius  ;  others  deny  it  ;  the  difj>ute  h?s  run  high, 
and  is  impoflible  10  be  determined  :  fortunately, 
however,  for  mankind,  it  does  not  fignify  a  ftraw 
who  built  it  ;  nor  could  the  dccifion  of  the  quef- 
tion  an  Twer  any  one  end  that  I  know,  of  inflruction, 
profit,  or  entertainment.  Parva  leves  capiunt  animes. 
Thole  who  rack  their  brains,  or  rather  their  heads, 
for  brains  they  can  have  none,  with  fuch  finical 
impertinent  inquiries,  fhould  be  punifhed,  with  mor- 
tification and  dilappointment,  for  the  mifufe  of  their 
time.  But  what  elle  can  they  do  ?  You  fay,  Why, 
yes  ;  they  might  fit  idle,  and  refrain  from  waiting 
paper  with  fuch  execrable  ftuff  ;  and  that  would  be 
better.  By  the  bye,  if  there  were  two  good  friends 
in  every  library  in  Europe,  licenfed  to  purge  it, 
like  the  Barber  and  Curate  in  Don  Quixotte,  of  all 
its  ufelels  and  milchievous  fluff,  many,  many  fhelves 
that  now  groan  under  heavy  weights  would  fland 
empty. 

Travelling  over  a  very  even  road,  and  a  country 
extremely  flat,  (for  from  Aix-la-Chapelle  I  met 
with  but  one  hill),  I  arrived  at  Cologne,  the  capi- 
tal, rfot  only  of  the  archbifhopnc  of  that  name,  but 
of  the  Circle  of  the  Lower  Rhine.  My  fpirits, 
which  were  not  in  the  veiy  befl  tone,  were  not  at 
all  railed  on  entering  the  city,  by  the  ringing  of 
church-bells,  of  all  tones  and  fizes,  in  every  quar- 
ter. Being  a  flranger,  I  thought  it  had  been  a  re- 
joicing day  ;  but,  on  inquiiy,  found  that  it  was  the 
conftant  practice.  Never,  in  my  life,  had  I  heard 
fuch  an  infernal  clatter:  never  befofe  had  I  (een 
any  thing  fo  gloomy  and  melancholy — the  ftreets 
black — difmal  bells  tolling — bald-pated  friars,  in 
myriads,  trailing  their  long  black  forms  through  the 
ftreets,  rr.culding  their  faces  into  every  fhape  that 
art  had  enabled  them  to  a  flume,  in  order  to  excite 
commiferation,  and  begging  alms  with  a  melancholy 
fong  calculated  for  the  purpofe,  fomewhat  like  that 


REFLECTIONS  AT  JULIERS.         gc, 

of  oar  blind  beggars  in  London,  and  productive  of 
the  fame  difagreeable  cffecl  upon  the  ipiriis.  In 
fhort,  I  was  not  an  hour  in  Cologne,  when  thole 
circumftances,  conlpiring  with  the  iniuperable 
melancholy  of  my  mind,  made  me  with  myieif  out 
of  it. 

Neverthelefs,  Cologne  is  a  fine  city  ;  and  if  it  be 
any  Satisfaction  to  you  to  fpin  thole  fine  imaginary 
ligaments  that,  in  the  brain  of  the  book-worm,  con- 
nect the  ancient  and  modern  world,  I  will  inform 
you,  that  it  was  anciently  called  Colonia  Agrippin.j, 
becaufe  Agrippina,  the  mother  of  Nero,  was 
born  there,  and  honored  it  with  a  Roman  colony, 
becaule  it  was  her  birth-place.  The  mind,  forced 
back  to  that  period,  and  contemplating  the  ;nii— 
chiefs  of  that  rnonfter  Nero,  cannot  help  wiihing 
that  Cologne  had  been  burnt  the  nigth  of  her  birth, 
and  Mils  Agrippina.  buried  in  the  ruins,  ere  fhe 
had  lived  to  give  birth  to  that  fcouige  of  the  world. 

Although  the  eftablilhed  religion  here  be  the 
Roman  Catholic,  extraordinary  as  it  may  appear, 
they  are  very  jealous  of  power  ;  and  though  the 
elector,  by  his  officers,  administers  juftice  in  all 
criminal  caufes,  they  will  not  permit  him,  in  per- 
Jon,  to  refide  above  three  days  at  a  time  in  the  citv, 
nor  to  bring  a  great  train  with  him  when  he  vifits 
it ;   for  this  reaion  he  commonly  refides  at  $onne. 

Cologne  has  a  very  conilderable  trade,  particularly 
in  Rhenifh  wine  ;  and  its  gin  is  reckoned  the  belt 
in  the  world,  and  bears  a  higher  price  than  any 
other  in  all  the  nations  «f  Europe. 

Like  all  great  Roman  Catholic  cities,  it  has  a 
profusion  of  churches,  crolTes,  miracles,  faints,  and 
church  trinkets  ;  and  I  really  think  it  has  more 
ftceples  and  bells  than  any  two  cities  in  Germany. 
As  Liege  was  called  the  Pajadiie  of  Priefts,  this 
ought  to  be  called  the  Golgotha  of  Skulls  and 
Skull-caps.  In  the  church  of  Saint  Ursula,  they 
ihevv,  or   pretend  at  leaft   to  foew,  the  bone*  of 


lOO       REFLECTIONS  AT  JULIER&. 

eleven  thoufand  virgin  martyrs.     The  fkulls  of  forne 
of  thole  imaginary    virg'ns   are   in   fi'ver  cales,   and 
others  in  fkuli-ccips,  of  cloth,   of  gold,   and  velvet. 
And   in   the   church  of  Saint  Gerion,   are  no  lefs 
tiizn    nine   hundred   heaos  of  Moonfh  cavaliers,  of 
the  army  of  the  Ernpeior   Constant  ine.   (previ- 
ous to  that  iaint's  converfion  to  Chnitianitv),   who 
they    lay    was   beheaded    for  re  f  lift  rig  to  laei  ficc  to 
idols:    by  the  bye,  the  Popifh  divines  bum.  inftead 
of  beheading,    for    not    facrificing  to  idols — Every 
one  of  thole    heads,   however,   has  a  cap  of  icailct, 
adorned  with  pearls.      The   whole  forms  a  fpeclacle 
no  doubt  equally  agreeable  and  edifying.      It  fhuck 
me,   however,   as  an  extremely  ludicrous  fight,  rftal- 
gie   the   felemnity   of  lo  many   death's  heads:   and. 
when  their  ftory  was  recounted.    I  could    not    help 
ernaily  chuckling,  and  faying  (rather  pur.ning'y, 
to    be    lui'e),   '•  Ah  !    what    Ho'ckfoadi  yc  rr.u-ft  have 
•  n,  to  iu-fer  vourlelves  to  be  feparated  f?<  ?n  your 
fnug  warm  bodies,  rather  than  drop  down  and  wor- 
ih?p   an   idol,    in  wnich  fo  many  good  Chriitian  di~ 
have    {hewn    you    an    example!"   This,  you 
nclucle,    I  laid  to  mylelf :   an   avowal    of  rnv 
fentiments   in  that  place  might  ha\e  given  my  bend 
a  title  to  a  fcarlet  cap  and  pearls  :   and  as  I  had  lome 
further   life   for  it,    I  did    not  think,  it  expedient  to 
leave  it  behind  me  in  the  church  of  Saint  Geriox 
— -fo,    very  prudently,   kept  my  mind  to  myiclf. 

Coming  out  of  the  church,  a  multitude  of  beg* 
gars,  all  in  canonicals,  or  Undent's  habits,  fur- 
rounded,  befeeching  me  fo^blms — one.  pour  1'amour 
?%  Dieu  ;  another,  pour  farceur  de  !a  Sainte 
Vierge  :  a  third,  pour  !e  falut  de  notre  Feeder? 
teur  ;  a  fourth,  pour  l'amour  de  Saint  Glrio 
and  fo  on  i 

When  I  had  gone  as  far  qs  I  wifhed  in  donation", 
another  attacked  me  ;  though  I  told  him  my  cha< 
riiy-bar.k  was  cxhaufted,  he  peifevercd,  and  was 
ttricotamoniy   Jolicitout — till  at   length,   having  ea.- 


REFLECTIONS  ONT  COLOGNE.      IOI 

haufted  the  whole  catalogue  of  faints  that  arc  to  be 
found  in  the  calendar,  he  tailed  his  voice  from  the 
miferable  whine  of  petition,  and  exclaimed  with 
great  energy,  "  Par  les  neuf  cent  tetes  des  Cavaliers 
Maures  qui  font  fan&ifies  au  Ciel,  je  vous  conjure 
de  me  faire  l'aumone  !"  This  was  too  formidable  an 
appeal  to  be  flighted;  and  fo,  in  homage  to  the 
fkulls  and  red  caps,  I  put  my  hand  in  my  pocket, 
and  flopped  his  clamours. 

Thole  miferable  modes  of  peculation  are  the  rood 
pardonable  of  any  produced  by  the  church;  we 
have  no  right  to  regret  a  trifle  iacrificed  at  the 
fhrine  of  companion,  even  when  that  compalTion 
is  miftaken  ;  but  our  reafon  revolts  at  impofition, 
when  it  calls  coercion  to  us  aid,  and  ailumes  the 
name  of  right. 

Without  any  national  predilection,  which  you 
know  I  am  above,  I  think  our  church  affairs  ia 
Scotland  are  sruuged  upon  a  better  iyitem  than  any 
oilier  that  J  know  of:  hence  their  clergy  are  in. 
general  examples  worthy  of  imitation,  for  learning, 
piety,  and  moral  conduct 


LETTER    XVIII. 


L 


(ABOURED  invefligations  to  eftablifh 
connections  between  thetbiftory  of  the  ancient  and 
bufinels  of  the  modern  world,  and  virulent  difputek 
about  trifles  of  antiq  nty,  iuch  as  in  what  year  this 
place  was  built,  or  that  great  man  was  born,  whan 
and  where  ]ui.  ius  Casar  landed  in  England, 
whether  he  palled  this  road  or  that,  what  route 
Hannieal  u.ok  over  the  Alps,  and  Juch  like,  are 
io  effeuiially  uniniesetting,  ufelefs,  and  unimpor- 
tant,   io    unpiofuaDle,    and,  one    would    think,  fo 

I     2 


102      REFLECTIONS  ON  COLOGNE. 

painful  too,  that  it  is  wonderful  how  fo  miny  men 
of  great  learning  have  been  unwife  enough  to  em- 
ploy their  lives  in  the  refearch. 

It  does  not  follow,  however,  that  when  informa- 
tion that  tends  to  recall  to  our  minds  the  great  men 
of  antiquity  is  prefrnted  to  us,  we  fhould  reje£t  it. 
A  man  of  claffical  tafte  and  education  feels  a  delight 
in  thofe  little  memorials  of  what  gave  him  pleafure 
in  his  youth.  1  know  a  gentleman,  who.  being  at 
Seville^  in  Spain,  travelled  to  Cordova,  for  no  other 
purpoie  but  to  fee  the  town  where  Llcan  and  Se- 
neca were  born  :  and  I  dare  fay,  that  if  you  weie 
at  Cologne,  you  would  be  much  pleafed  to  fee  the 
town-houie.  a  great  Gothic  building,  which,  con- 
tains a  variety  of  ancient  infcriplions  ;  the  fii/t  to 
commemorate  the  kind  nets  of  Julius  C/Zsax  to 
the  L'bii,  who  inhabited  this  place,  and  of  whom 
you  have  found  mention  made  by  him  in  his  Com- 
mentaries, and  alio  his  bi.ilding  two  wooden  bud.es 
•vet  the  Rhine:  a  Second  corn  memora  res  Augus- 
tus lending  a  colony  heie.  There  i:>  alio  .  tx\  - 
bow  ^)f  whalebone,  twelve  feet  long,  eight  broad, 
and  four.inches  thick,  which  ihey  who  (peak  of  it 
cotij-.  £t.ire  to  have  belonged  to  the  Em^t  ior  Maxi* 
MiN.  Theje  are  alio  io'ne  Roman  inscriptions  in 
the  arfena!,   the  impou  of  which  I  now  forget. 

It  is  veiy  extraordinai  v,  but  certainly  a  t,  ct,  that 
there  are,  about  Cologne,  families  yet  exifring,  who 
indu'ge  the  lent  ieis  ambition  of  pietenuing  to  be 
dicended  from  the  ancient  Romans,  ana  who  actu- 
ally produce  their  genealogies,  tarried  cown  from 
the  fiiit  time  this  ci.y  wa.v  maac  a  color.y  of  trie 
Roman  empiie.  Or  ah  kmas  of  vanity,  this  is 
perhaps  the  molt  ex'raviigciiu  :  for,  if  ant  q  iity 
merely  be  the  o!  j<£L  all  ate  tq  ;ally  high,  fince  ail 
muft  have  oiig  nated  from  t i.c  lame  (lock  ;  and  if 
it  Le  the  pi  ch  ot  belonging  to  a  particular  famj  v 
who  were  d  liniguilheo  fa(  vaioui  or  virtue,  a  claim 
wincn  phe«  oniy  icrves  to  ptovc  the  dcgeneiacy  of 


REFLECTIONS  ON  COLOGNE.       1 03 

tl  ■  claimant,  it  could  not  apply  in  the  cafe  ©f  a 
tile  people  :  but  this  is  among  the  fiailties  of 
h  ifr&nity  ;  and  we  are  often  io  dazzled  with  the 
fttlendour  of  tenefirial  glory,  tliat  we  endeavour  to 
be  allied  to  it  even  by  the  moll  remote  and  ridicu- 
lous conne&ions.  1  heard  of  a  man,  whole  pride 
and  bouft,  when  drunk,  was,  that  Dean  Swift 
had  ence    thrown    his    mother's   ov(l«:  Was  a* 

oyiter-wench)  about  the  ftreet,  and  then  gsve  her 
half  a  crown  as  an  atonement  for  the  injury.  On 
the  flrength  of  this  afiinity  did  he  call  the  Dean 
nothing  but  C oufin  Jonathan,  though  the  Dean  was 
dead  before  lie  was  born  ! 

But  of  all  the  {lories  1  have  ever  freard  as  illu- 
flrative  of  this  ft  range  ambition,  that  to  hifch  the  late 
Lord  Anson  has  left  us  is  the  molt  finking.  When 
that  great  man  was  travelling  in  the  E^lL  he  hired. 
a  vefiel  to  vifit  the  ifhnd  of  Tenedos  :  his  pilot,  a 
modern  Gteek,  pointing  to  a  bay  as  they  lailed 
along,  exclaimed  in  great  triumph,  ■<  There,  a  v. 
thete  it  was  that  our  fret  lav.5' — <;  What  fle£t  ?" 
interrogated  Anson—  ;i  Why,  our  Grecian  fl^er, 
at  ihe  fiege  of  Ttoy,"  returned  the  pilot. 

Wlule  thole  doughty-  deicendan's  of  the  ancient 
Romans  indulge  the  cheeiiefs  idea  of  their  great 
and.iiluftrious  line  of  ancient  aneeiby,  the  prince 
who  rules  them  felicitates  himfelf  with  the  more 
fuhftantial  dignities  and  emoluments  of  his  modern 
offices.  As  eltClor  and  archbifhop  of  Cologne,  he 
has  dominion  over  a  large,  fruitful,  anci  opulent 
-  country  :  he  is  the  molt  powerful  of  the  ecc'.efi  -flr- 
ca;  electors  :  he  has  many  iuiiragan  j  nicer,  1  y  and 
(pnitual.  under  him  ;  and  he  is  archchaucn'-or  of 
the  Holy  Roman  Empire.  The  revenues  of  Iris 
archb'.ihopric  •  amount  annually  to  one  hundreu  nd 
thii t y  thouiand  pounds  Sterling  ;  and  as  eicct -;,  he 
is  poll. lied  of  leveial  other  greac  benefices.  I  ;  re- 
lume, becauie  lie  is  a  prince,  that  he  is  a  m  <  of 
fenic  ;  and,  1  -will  venture  10  iay,  that,  ai  iuch,  he 


104      REFLECTIONS  ON  COLOGNE, 

would  not  barter  thofe  good  things  for  the  power 
to  demon  ftrate  that  Lucretia  was  his  aunt,  Bru- 
tus his  grandfather,  and  the  great  Julius  Ca:sar 
himfelf  his  coufin-german. 

Chr  ist  chofe  his  dilciples  out  of  fifhermen.  The 
Chapter  of  Cologne  is,  perhaps,  on  the  contiary, 
the  very  mod  anrtocratic  body  exi fling,  being  corn- 
poled  of  forty  canons,  who  arc  princes  or  counts 
of  the  empire — Of  thofe,  twenty-five  chooie  the 
archhifhop,  and  many  advance  one  of  their  own 
body  to  that  great  and  wealthy  dignity,  if  they 
pleale. 

Fiom  Cologne  I  proceeded  to  the  town  of  Bonne, 
which  is  laid  to  take  its  name  from  the  pleaiantneis 
of  its  fituation.  Here  the  elettor  rcf.de?,  and  bos  a 
very  fine  palace.  The  country  aiound  is  extremely 
fiuitful  and  pleafant,  and  is  bit  lT^d  with  moft  of  the 
good  things  which  render  the  rich  magnificent  and 
hippy,  and  remind  the  poor  of  their  mfettofity  and 
M'fetchednefs — particularly  wine,  which  is  here  re- 
maikably  excellent.  It  contains  chutches,  priefts, 
convents,  cloiftcis,  &c.  ;  but  1  need  not  mention 
them — what  place  could  exifr,  without  them  ? 

I  (hould  not  furget  to  tell  you,  that,  at  this  piece, 
Julius  Casar  built  one  of  his  bridges  aeiois  the 
Rhine — wo;  ks  which  would  have  handed  down  t*> 
poileriiy  the  name  of  a  common  man,  for  the  mag- 
nitude of  the  (tii.&ure  and  ingenuity  of  the  contri- 
vance, but  are  loft  in  the  crowu  of  aftcnifhing  talents 
which  di(lir.gu:ilied  that  brighteft  of  morals.  The 
greatcft  biogiapher  of  antiquv.  y  iay>  of  him,  that  lie 
was  as  greac  a  general  as  Hannibal,  as  great  an 
oratoi  as  Cicero,  and  as  great  a  politician  as  Au- 
gustus ;  but  it  might  be  aadt-c,  thai  he  was  among 
the  hi  It  poets  of  his  day — that  he  was  of  the  hilt 
mechanical  genius,  and  the  nneft  gentleman,  in 
Rome. 

Nature  feems  to  have  formed,  in  Cesar,  a  com- 
pendious union  of  all   human   talents,    as  if  to  de- 


REFLECTIONS  ON  COLOGNE.      105 

mo-'jftra'e  how  unavailing  *hey  were  when  oppofed 
to  fli:6l  t'g'.d  honeily  and  virtue  in  the  character  of 
Brutus. 

To  go  from  Bonne  to  Frankfort,  there  are  two 
ways — one  over  the  mountains  of  Wetterania,  the 
other  up  the  river  K.une.  I  made  no  rietftatitin"  to 
adopt  the  latter,  and  was  rewarded  for  my  choice 
with  the  view  of  as  fine  a  country,  inhabited  by  js 
fine  a  race  of  people,  as  I  had  ever  leen.  Valleys 
filled  with  herd?,  plains  enamelled  with  corn-fields,, 
and  the  hiils  covered  with  vineyards,  regaled  the 
eye,  and  conveyed  to  the  mind  ail  the  felicitating 
ideas  of  plenty,  natural  opulence,  and  true  proipe- 
rity.  My  anxiety,  however,  to  get  forward,  and 
ddengage  mylelf  from  a  fpecies  of  lolitade  in  a 
country  where,  though  travelling  is  cheap,  accom- 
modations of  moft  kinds  in  the  public  houfes  are 
bad,  induced  rWe  to  pufh  on,  without  taking  the 
time  necelldiy  for  making  accurate  oblervalions  on 
the  country  as  I  palled  ;  io  that,  gliding,  as  it  were, 
imperceptibly,  through  a  number  or  towns,  of 
which  J  lecolkft  nothing  diltmclly  but  the  names 
of  Coblentz  ana  Mentz,  I  arrived  at  the  great,  free, 
and  imperial  city  of   Frankfort  on  the  Maine. 

Here  I  fhall  (top,  for  a  fhort  time,  my  relation, 
in  order  to  give  you  time  for  jufl:  reflection  and  ex- 
amination of  what  I  have  already  written  :  and  as, 
in  the  latter  part  of  it,  I  have  Ikimmed  very  lightly 
over  the  country,  I  deft  re  that  you  will  lupply  the 
deficiency  of  my  information  by  cloie  reiearch  in 
books  ;  inform  yourlelf  of  the  great  outlines  of  the 
Germanic  Conflitution  ;  look  back  to  its  origin,  its 
prog  re  Is,  and  its  eftabhih  merit  ;  thence  proceed  to 
the  difiinft  parts,  or  inferior  ftatcs,  of  which  it  is 
com  poled  ;  ponder  them  all  well  ;  and  from  thole 
draw  your  own  inferences,  and  let  me  hear  what 
they  are  with  fieedom  :  (hould  they  be  wrong,  I 
win  endeavour  to  let  them  right  ;  but  Ihould  they 
bcrjght,  they  will  afford  me  the  moft  liveiy    fatijfc. 


lob         FRANKFORT  DESCRI  BEJX 

faction  ;  for  they  will  (erve  to  correct  one  of  the 
great  eft  errors  under  which  youth  labours — 3n  over- 
weening, fanguine  imagination,  that  things  in  this 
life  are,  or  at  leaft  can  be  modelled  into  perfection  •, 
whereas  experience,  and  a  juft  oblervation  of  the 
hi  (lory  of  mankind,  will  (hew,  that  on  this  bail 
things  will  never  be  as  they  ought,  but  muft  remain 
«»s  they  are — imperfect. 


LETTER    XIX. 


X.  HE  country  about  Frankfort  is  delight, 
ful,  rich  and  fruitful,  and  watered  by  the  beautiful- 
river  Maine,  which  divides  the  city  into  two  parts,. 
that  on  the  north  being  called  Frankfort,  and  that 
on  the  fouth,  Saxenhaufen,  from  the  Saxons,  who 
are  fuppofed  to  have  been  the  founders  of  it.  The 
city  itfelf  is  large,  populous,  and  rich,  and  difttn- 
guifhed  for  being  the  place  where  the  emperor  and 
king  of  the  Romans  is  elected — though,  by  the  ap- 
pointment of  Charlemagne,  Cologne  has  a  fupe- 
jior  claim  to  that  honor.  The  magiftrates,  and  great 
part  of  the  inhabitants,  are  Lutherans  or  Calvinifts; 
notwithstanding  which,  moft  of  the  churches  are  in 
the  hands  of  the  Roman  Catholics — a  laudable  in- 
ftance  of  the  true  tolerant  f pi rit  of  a  wife  and  virtu- 
ous institution,  and  a  heavy  reflection  upon,  as  well 
as  a  noble  example  to  the  Popifh  Powers  of  Europe. 
The  territory  belonging  to  Frankfort  is  of  very 
eonfiderable  extent;  and  the  trade  carried  oa 
ihtough  it,  by  means  of  the  rivers  Rhine  and 
Maine,  of  very  great  importance,  not  only  to  the 
country  iilelf,  but  to  other  coaimeicial  nations,  and 
particularly   to   Great   Britain,   whole  manufactures 


FRANKFORT  DESCRIBED.  107 

-are  Tent  to  Frankfort,  and  thence  circulated  through 
the  Con  tine  jt,    in     na       »  quantities. 

The  ort  are  talked  of  all  over  Eu- 

rope— of  fuch  importance  are  they  in  the  world  of 
Co  nmcicp,  They  arc  held,  one  at  Eafter,  and  ano- 
ther in  September1,  and  Continue  for  three  weeks, 
d  in  g  which  time  the  refbrt  of  people  there  from 
all  quarter*  is  aftonifmng.  Every  thing  is  done  by 
the  government  to  lender  them  as  atli active  to  mer^ 
chancs  as  poffible  ;  and  ta;:es  or  duties  are  extrcm-ly 
low — -a  b.iie  ol  ue  of  ten  or  twenty  thoufand 

crowns  paying  dutv  only  abojt  ten  or  eleven  pence 
or  our  mon< :  v.  A!'  commodities  from  all  partb  >f 
the  world  are  told  there,  and  circulated  through  the 
empire  ;but,  particularly,  bo  ;k>  art*  iold  in  prodi- 
gious quamit  res'.  After  the  fairs  are  over,  the  {hojs 
of  the  foreign  merchants  are  fhut  up,  and  their 
names  written  over  their  doors. 

To  give  an  idea  of  the  great  importance  thefe 
fairs  are  to  comme.ce,  1  need  only  mention,  that 
in  the  prefent  war,  the  impediments  thrown  by  the 
French  in  the  way  of  the  t  ran  fit  of  goods  up  the 
Rhine,  and  the-  (hutting  up  that  fair,  gave  a  moft 
alarming  paralyns  to  the  manufacturing  eftdh.ifh- 
ments  of  England,  and  a  (hock  to  public  credit  in 
Cpnfequc  c.  ,  that  would,  but  for  the  timely  inter- 
ference of  Parliament,  have,  in  all  probability,  been 
fatal  to  the  national  credit. 

Frankfort  is  in  many  refpefts  a  pleafant  place: 
the  merchants  are  extremely  convivial  and  fociable, 
and  form  clubs,  where  they  meet  to  drink  tea  and 
coffee,  and  play  at  cards.  There  is  a  playhoufc 
alio,  a  g'ear  number  of  coffee-houfes,  and  other 
lioules  of  entertainment  in  abundance.  The  coun- 
try around  is  cohered  with  woods  and  vineyards, 
and  he  c  icumjacent  villages  are  very  pleaiant,  and 
well  fnpplied  with  houles  of  entertainment,  to 
which   the   inhabitants   of   the   city   refort    in    the 


lo8  FRANKFORT  DESCRIBED. 

S^m-rer  feafon  :  ana  the  inns  in  Fiankfort  are 
excellent. 

A  fmgular  cnftom  prevails  here,  which  I  think 
worth  mentioning:  Taverns  are  clenotea  by  pine- 
trees  planted  before  the  doors  of  them  ;  and  the 
different  piices  of  the  wines  in  their  teliais  are 
marked  in  ophers  on  the  door-pods. 

In  the  town  heie  is  preiented  the  orig'nal  Gol- 
den Bdl,  or  Pope's  Authority,  which  contains  the 
rules  and  orcers  to  be  obierved  at  the  election  of 
the  Emperors.  The  Golden  Bull  is  never  fhown 
to  Grangers  but  in  the  prelence  of  two  of  the  coun- 
cil and  the  enetary — It  is  a  little  manulcripi  in 
quarto,  conf.  fling  of  forty-two  leaves  of  parch- 
ment, with  a  gold  leal  of  three  inches  diameter,  of 
the  value  of  twenty  ducats,  hung  to  it  by  a  cord  of 
yellow  (ilk.  It  is  fa  id  to  be  written  in  Latin  and 
•Gothic  charrcters,  without  diphthongs;  and  kept 
In  a  black  box  together  with  two  wiitten  tianfla- 
tions  of   it  into  the  German  language. 

It  is  laid  of  Frank !ort,  that  the  Roman  Catholics 
polTcfs  the  churches,  the  Lutherans  the  dignities, 
and  the  Calvinifls  the  riches.  It  is  therefore  one 
of  the  few  places  in  Chriflendom  where  the 
churches  and  the  riches  do  not  go  into  the  lame 
hands. 

From  Frankfort  to  Augfbirgh,  I  pafled  through 
a  number  of  towns,  all  of  them  io  very  inconliuer- 
able  as  not  to  merit  any  particular  deloription.  The 
way  lies  from  the  Palatinaie  though  the  Ciicle  of 
Suibia.  In  the  extreme  end  of  the  Palatinate,  and 
immediately  before  entering  the  Duichy  of  Wir- 
tcmberg,  the  country  is  covered  with  fir-tiees,  and 
money  is  lo  icarce  in  it,  that  a  loal  ol  wheaten 
bread,   weighing  eight  pounds,  cofts  but  two  pence. 

This  city  of  Au^Iburgh  is  the  c<p>tal  of  a  biih- 
opric  of  that  name  in  the  Circle  of  Suobia,  and  is 
worthy  of  the  attention  of  the  ci.ifTical  travpUei  for 
its  antiquity.     About  twelve  years  befoie  the  birth 


FRANKFORT  DESCRIBED.         IC9 

c/  Christ,  Augustus  Ccsar  fubdued  all  this 
country,  and,  on  the  place  where  Augfburgh  now 
ftands,  formed  a  colony,  gave  the  town  the  name 
of  Auguftfl  Vindelicorum,  and  put  it  under  the 
government  of  Drusus  the  broiher  of  Tiberius, 
afterwards  emperor  of  Rome.  The  inhabitants  of 
this  place  were  the  Vindelici,  a  branch  of  the 
Jliyrians.  But,  ancient  though  it  be,  it  has  little 
more  of  antiquity  to  entitle  it  to  notice  than  the 
bare  name  ;  for  it  has  been  pillaged  io  often,  par- 
ticularly by  that  monfter  Attila,  that  there  are 
fcarcely  any  remains  of  its  antiquity  to  be  found. 

Augfb  irgh,  is  now,  however  a  handfome  city — 
the  public  buildings  in  general  magnificent,  and 
sdorned  with  fountains,  water  engines  of  a  curious 
conftrucVon,   and  liatues. 

The  mod  rich  and  fplendid  part  of  the  town 
belongs  to  a  family  of  the  name  of  Fuggeks  (ori- 
g-naly  defcended  fiom  a  weave;),  who  enriched 
themfelves  by  commerce,  and  one  of  when  render- 
ed not  only  himfelf,  but  the  whole  family,  conlpi- 
cuous,  by  enertaining  the  emperor  Charles  the 
Fihfj  in  a  fuperb  manner,  and  lupplying  him  with 
money,  and  then  throwing  his  bond  into  the  fire  ; 
in  return  for  which,  the  emperor,  made  him  a 
count  of  the  empire. 

This  citv  is  remaikable  for  goldfmiths'  ware  ;  and 
its  mechanics  are  equal  to  any  in  the  world,  for 
wotks  in  gold,  ivoiy,  clocks,  and  time-pieces;  and 
they  engrave  better  than  any  people  in  Germany, 
which  brings  them  conficlerable  profis.  But  what 
they  are,  above  all  other  people,  eminent  fdr,  is 
the  manufacturing  fteel- chains  io  prodigioufiy  fine, 
that  when  one  of  them,  of  a  fpan  in  length,  h;;> 
been  put  about  the  neck  of  a  fiea,  it  lifts  up  the 
whole  of  it  as  it  leaps  ;  and  yet  thoie  are  iold  for 
let's  than  a  (hilling  of  our  money  a  piece. 

Controveriy,   and  difference  in  ret  gious  options. 
which  has  almoft,  ever  fence  the  commencement  of 

K 


110  FRANKFORT  DESCRIBED. 

Chriftianity,  difgraced  the  human  underflanding, 
and  defaced  fociety,  impofes  upon  the  liberal,  well- 
thinking  traveller,  the  office  of  iatirift  but  too 
often.  Augfburgh,  however,  is  a  fplendid  ex- 
ception, and  holds  up  a  mod  glorious  fpe&acle  of 
manly  fenfe,  generous  lentimem,  juftice,  and  I  will 
lay  policy  too,  var.tjuilhing  that  fhark-jawed  enemy 
of  mankind,  bigotry.  The  magiflracy  of  Augf- 
burgh is  compofed  of  about  an  equal  number  of 
Proteflants  and  Roman  Catholics — their  fenate  con- 
fifiingof  twenty-three  Roman  Catholics  and  twenty- 
two  Lutherans,  and  their  common  Council  of  a 
hundred  and  fifty  of  each  :  The  executive  power 
is  lodged  in  the  fenate — the  legiflative  authority  in 
both  bodies.  But,  what  is  hardly  to  be  found  any 
where,  they  all,  as  well  as  the  people,  agree  toge- 
ther in  the  moll;  perfect  harmony,  notwithstanding 
the  difference  of  religion  ;  and  at  all  tables  but  the 
communion  table,  they  aflbciate  together,  dip  in  the 
iame  difh,  and  drink  of  the  fame  cup,  as  if  they  had 
never  heard  of  the  odious  diftincliou  of  Papifl  and 
Proteftant,  but  as  being  bound  to  each  other  by  the 
great  and  irrefragable  bond  of  humanity  :  fellow- 
creatures,  afiecled  by  the  fame  feelings,  impelled  by 
the  lame  paiTions,-  labouiing  under  the  lame  necef- 
fities,  and  heirs  to  the  fame  iufTerings,  their  means 
of  sffuaging  the  one,  gratifying  or  refitting  another, 
and  fupplying  the  third,  are  the  lame,  though  che- 
quered and  varied  a  little  in  the  mode — the  load 
alone  different,  the  ends  alike.  Is  it  not  cruel, 
then — is  it  not  intolerable,  that  the  calamities  inse- 
parable from  humanity  fhould  be  aggravated  with 
artificial  ftings,  and  the  nakednels  of  human  nature 
expuled,  and  rendered  more  offenlive,  by  factitious 
calamities  of  human  contrivance?  Curled  v\tre 
thole  who  fir  ft  fomented  thole  cilputes,  and  c 
thofe  apples  of  dilcord  through  the  wot  Id  :  blind 
were  they  who  firft  were  leduced  fiom  the  paths 
of  peace  by  them  ;    and   more    curfed,    and   uiore 


ADVENTURE  AT  AUGSBURG  H.      1 1 1 

blind,  mud  they  be,  who,  in  this  time  of  intellect 
and  illumination,  continue  on  the  one  hand,  to  keep 
up  a  iyftem  io  wicked  and  io  deteftable,  or,  on  tie 
other,  to  iubmit  to  error  at  once  lb  foolifh  and  io 
fatal. 


LETTER     XX. 


X  OR  the  reafons  mentioned  in  rny  I  a  ft, 
Augfbjrgh  is  a  mod  agreeable  place  to  live  in. 
Touched  with  the  sent.'',; ions  natural  Io  a  man  who 
loved  to  fee  his  fellow-cieatuies  happy,  my  heart 
expanded  to  a  iyftem  of  peace  and  harmony,  com- 
prehending the  whole  globe  :  my  mind  expatiated 
involuntarily  on  the  blefiings  and  advantages  deiiv- 
ed  from  fuch  a  fyftem  ;  and,  taking  flight  from  the 
bounds  of  practicability,  to  which  our  feeble  nature 
is  pinned  on  this  earth,  into  the  regions  of  fancy, 
had  reared  a  fabric  of  Utopian  mold,  which,  I  ve- 
rily believe,  exceeded  in  extravagance  the  works 
of  all  the  Utopian  architects  that  ever  conftrucled 
caftles  in  the  air. 

Hurried  on  by  this  delightful  vifion,  my  perlon 
paid  an  involuntary  obedience  to  my  mind  ;  and 
the  quicknefs  of  my  pace  increafing  with  the  im- 
petuolity  of  my  thoughts,  I  found  myfelf,  before 
I  was  aware  of  ir,  within  the  chapel-door  of  the 
convent  of  the  Carmelites.  Obferving  my  error, 
1  fuddenly  turned  about,  in  order  to  depart,  when 
a  friar,  a  goodly  perlon  of  a  man,  elderly,  and  of 
a  benign  aipecl;,  called  me,  and,  advancing  towards 
me,  afked,  in  terms  of  polite  nefs.  and  in  the  French 
language,  why  I  was  retreating  io  abruptly — I  was 
confuted  :  but  truth  is  the  enemy  before  whom 
confuhon  ever  flies  ;  and  I  told  him  the  whole 
<ef  my  miftake,  and  the  thoughts  from  which  they 
arofe. 


112     ADVENTURE  AT  AUGSBURG H. 

The  good  father,  waving  further  difcourfe  on  the 
fuhjeft,  but  with  a  fmile  which  1  thought  earned  a 
mixture  of  benevolence  for  mylelf,  and  contempt 
for  my  ideas,  brought  me  through  the  church,  and 
fhewed  me  ail  the  curiofities  of  the  phce,  and  par- 
ticularly, pointed  out  to  me,  as  a  great  curiofity,  a 
fun-dial  made  in  the  form  of  a  Madonna,  the  head 
enriched  with  rays  and  liars,  ar\d  in  the  hand  a 
Icepire  which  matked  the  hours. 

Quitting  the  chapel,  >$nd  going  towards  the  re- 
fectory, the  friar  flood,  and,  looking  at  me  with  » 
le  of  gaiety,  (aid,  "  I  have  yet  fomething  to 
fiiew  you,  which,  while  lady  Madonna  marks  the 
t;ir,e,  will  help  us  to  pals  it  ;  and,  as  it  will  make 
its  way  with  more  force  and  iubtiety  to  your  fenfes 
than  thofe  I  have  yet  (hewn  you,  will  be  likely  to 
ice  logger  retained  in  remembrance." 

He  ipoke  a  few  woids  in  German,  which  of 
•couvfe  I  did  not  underftand,  to  a  vifion  bearing  the 
flhape  of  a  human  creature,  who,  I  underftood, 
was  a  lay-brother  ;  and,  turning  down  a  long  alley, 
brought  me  to  his  cell,  where  we  were  foon  fol- 
lowed by  the  aforcl'aid  lay-brother,  with  a  largQ 
earthen  jug  of  liquor,  two  giotfesj  and  a  plale  wita 
fome  delicately  white  bilcuit. 

"  You  muft  know,"  faid  the  friar,  "  that  the 
convent  of  Carmelites  at  Augfoutgh  has  for  ages 
been  famed  for  beer  unequalled  in  any  part  of  the 
woild  ;  and  I  have  brought  you  here  to  have  your 
opinion — for,  being  an  Englifhman,  you  muft  be 
a  judge,  the  Bri'uns  being  lamed  for  luxury,  and  a 
perfect;  knowledge  of  ihejcavoir  yiyre."  lie  pour- 
ed out,  and  drank  to  me  :  it  looked  Uker  the  clear- 
ed Champaigne  than  beer — I  never  tailed  any  thii^j 
to  equal  it  ;  and  he  ieemed  highly  gratified  by  my 
expre  {lions  of  praife,  which  1  Lavished  upon  it,  as 
well  from  politeneis,   as  regard  to  tiuth. 

After   we   had  drank  a  glafs  each,    {i  I  have  beerv 
r c EL' £U :<£,."  faid   the  friar,  *•  on  the  lingular  fi^hi, 


ADVENTURE  AT  ArGSBURGH.     1 1  3 

of  fancy  that  directed  your  fleps  into  this  convent-^- 
Your  mind  was  diieafed,  my  ion  !  and  a  propitious 
iuperintending  Power  has  guided  your  fteps  to  a 
phyfician,  if  you  will  but  have  the  goodnefs  to  take 
the  medicine  he  offers. " 

I  flared  with  vifible  marks  of   aftonifhment. 

"  You  are  furprifed,"  continued  he  ;  {1  but  you 
fhall  hear  !  When  firft  you  difcloied  to  me  thole 
fick'.y  (lights  of  your  mind,  I  could  on  the  inftanc 
have  answered  them  :  but  you  are  young — you  are 
an  Englifhftjan — two  chara&crs  impatient  of  re- 
proof :  the  dogmas  of  a  orielr,  I  thought  there- 
fore, would  be  fufiicienily  difficult  to  be  digefled 
of  themfelvcs,  without  any  additional  drftafte  caught 
from  the  chilling  aufterity  of  a  chapel  i" 

I  looked  unintentionally  at  the  earthen  jug,  and 
smiled. 

{:  It  is  very  true,"  (aid  he.  catching  my  very  in- 
mofl  thoughts  from  the  exprefiion  of  my  counte- 
nance— "  it  is  very  true,  j  good  doclrine  may,  at 
certain  times,  and  with  Certain  periens,  be  more 
effectually  enforced  under  the  cheering  influence  of 
the  (ocial  board,  than  by  the  authoritative  declama- 
tion and  formal  far.cttty  of  the  pulpit  ;  nor  am  I, 
though  a  Carmelite,  one  of  thoie  who  pretend  to 
think,  that  a  thing  in  it  lei  f  good,  can  be  made 
bad  by  decent  hilarity,  and  the  animation  produced 
bv  a  moderate  and  wife  ulc  of  the  goods  of  this 
earth." 

I  was  aftonifhed- — 

li  You  fell  into  a  reverie,"  continued  he,  "  pro- 
duced by  a  contemplation  of  the  happmels  of  a 
fociety  exiilmg  without  any  difference,  and  where 
no  human  breath  Jhould  be  waded  on  a  figh,  no 
ear  tortured  with  a  groan,  no  tears  to  trickle,  no 
griefs  or  calam'tics  to  wring  the  heart." 

:-  Yes,  father  !"  fa;d  I,  catching  the  idea  with 
my  former  enthufiafm  ;  "  that  would  be  my  wiiu — 
that  my  gteatefl,   iirit  defrre*V 

K   2 


l  14     ADVENTURE  AT  AUGSBURGfl. 

*;  Then  feefl:  thou,"  interrupted  lie.  c;  the  ex- 
tent of  thy  wifh,  fuppofe  you  could  realize  if, 
which,    thank  God!   you  cannot." 

"  What!  thank  God  that  I  cannot?  are  the fe 
your  thoughts  ?" 

':  Yes,  my  Ton  ;  and  ere  Madonna  marks  the 
progrefs  of  ten  minutes  with  her  fecptre,  they  will 
be  your's  too." 

IS   Impoirible  !" 

?'  Hear  me,  my  fon  ! — Is  not  death  a  horrible 
precipice  to  the  view  of  human  creatures  ?" 

"  Affuredly,"  laid  1 — "the  mo  ft  horrible  :  hu- 
man laws  declare  that,  by  reforting  to  it  for  punilh- 
rr.ent,  as  the  ultimatum  of  ali  terrible  inflictions." 

14  When,  then,"  laid  he,  M  covered  as  we  are 
with  mifery,  to  leave  this  world  is  lb  infupportable 
to  the  human  reflection,  what  muft  it  be  if  we  had 
nothing  but  joy  and  felicity  to  tafte  of  in  this  life  ? 
Mark  mc,  child  !"  faid  he,  with  an  animated  seal 
thdt  gave  an  exprefBon  to  his  countenance  beyond 
any  thing  I  had  ever  ieen  :  ii  the  miieries,  the  cala- 
mities, the  heart-rendfngs,  and  the  tears,  which 
are  lo  intimately  interwoven  by  the  gieat  artifl  in 
our  natures  as  not  to  be  ieparated  in  a  fingie  in- 
ilance,  are  in  the  Erfi,  place  our  iccurity  of  a  future 
flate,  and  in  the  next  place  lerve  to  Hope  the  way 
before  us,  and,  by  gradual  operation,  fit  our  minds 
for  viewing,  with  iome  lori  of  fortitude,  that  hi- 
deous chain  that  lies  between  us  and  that  ftate-— 
death.  View  thoie  miieries,  then,  as*  lpccial  acts 
of  mercy  and  commileration  of  a  beneficent  Crea- 
tor, who,  with  every  calamity,  melts  away  a  link 
of  that  earthly  chain  that  fetters  our  withes  to  this 
difmal  world.  Accept  his  bleilings  and  his  goods, 
when  he  fends  them,  with  gratitude  and  enjoyment  : 
receive  his  afflictions,  too,  with  as  joyous  accept- 
ance, and  as  hearty  gratitude.  .Thus,  and  not  other- 
wife,  you  will  resize  all  your  Utopian  flights  of 
acfue,  by  turning  eveij  thing  lo  matter  of  comfort^ 


ADVENTURE  AT  AUGSBURGII.     1 15 

and  living  contented  with  difpenfations  which  you 
cannot  alter,  and,  if  you  could,  would  moil  cer- 
tainly alter  for  the  woiie." 

I  iat  abioibed  in  reflection — The  friar,  after  ferae 
paufe  proceeded — 

4i  Errors  arifing  from  virtuous  diipefuions  and 
the  love  of  our  fellow- creatures,  take  their  com- 
plexion from  their  parent  motives,  and  are  virtu- 
ous. Your  wifli.es,  therefore,  my  ion  !  though  er- 
joneouSj  merit  reward,  and,  1  trull  will  receive  it 
horn  thai  Being  who  lees  the  iecelles  of  the  heart  -r 
and  if  the  truths  I  have  told  you  have  not  failed  to 
make  their  way  to  your  underftanding,  let  your 
adventure  of  to-day  imprels  this  undeniable  maxim 
on  your  mind — lo  limited  is  man,  fo  imperfect  in 
his  nature,  that  the  extent  of  his  virtue  borders  on 
vice,  and  the  extent  of  his  wiidom  on  error." 

I  thought  he  was  inipired  ;  and,  jull  as  he  got  to 
the  laff.  period,  every  organ  of  mine  was  opened  to 
take  in  his  words. 

s,"  'Tis  well,  my  fon  \"  fcid  he—"  I  petceive  you 
like  my  doctiine  :  then"  changing  his  manner  of 
f peaking,  his  expreilive  countenance  the  whole  time 
aimed  anticipating  his  whole  woids,  4i  take  fome 
more  of  it,"  (aid  he  g<nly,  pouring  out  a  fieih  glats. 
1  pleaded  the  fear  of  inebrieiy — '•  Fear  not,"  laid 
he  ;  "  the  beer,  of  this  convent  never  hurts  the  in- 
tellea." 

Our  Converfaticn  continued  till  near  dinner-time  ; 
for  I  was  fo  delighted,  I  icaiceiy  knew  how  to 
fnaieh  myielf  away  :  fuch  a  happy  melange  of  piety 
and  pleafantry,  grave  wiidom  and  humour.  1  had 
never  met.  At  length,  the  convent-beil  tolling.  I 
roie  :  he  took  me  by  the  hand,  and,  in  a  rone  of  the 
moft  complacent  admonition,  laid,  "  Remember, 
my  child  !  as  long  as  you  live,  remember  the  convent 
of  the  Carmelites  ;  and  in  the  innumerable  evils 
that  certainly  await  you  if  you  are  to  live  long,  the 
words  you  have  heard  from  old  Friar  Augustine 
will  afford  you  comfort.'* 


Ii6  ARRIVAL  AT  THE 

"  Father!"  re?urned  I,  M  becflured  I  carry  away 
from  you  a  token  that  will  never  fuffer  me  to  forget 
'"the  hofpitality.  the  advice,  or  the  politenels  of  the 
good  father  Augustine.  Poor  as  I  am  in  natural 
mcanf,  I  can  make  no  other  return  than  my  good 
willies,  nor  leave  any  impreflion  behind  me:  but  as 
my  efteem  for  you,  and  perhaps  my  vanity,  make 
me  wifh  not  to  be  forgotten,  accept  this,  (a  iea!  ring, 
with  a  device  in  hair,  which  I  happened  to  have  on 
my  finger;  :  and  whenever  you  look  at  it.  let  it  re- 
mind you  of  one  of  thoie,  I  dare  lay  innumerable, 
inlianccs,  in  which  you  have  Contributed  to  the 
happinds  and  improvement  of  your  fellow-crea- 
ture?/' 

The  good  old   man    was  affected,   took    the  rina, 

I  attended  me  to  the  convent  gate,    pronouncing 

many  blefiings,  and  charging  me  to  make  A'.gib  .r.;h 

my  way  back  again  to  England  if  pofiible,  and  take 

o:jc  glais  more  of  the  convent  ale. 


\ 


LETTER     XXI. 


L, 


/EAYING  Augfburgh,  I  travelled  thro' 
Bavaria  a  long  way  before  I  1  cached  the  Tyrol 
Countiy,  of  the  natural  beauty  of  winch  I  had  heard 
much,  and  which  I  therefore  entered  with  great 
expectations  of  that  fublime  grar.  fication  the  beau- 
ties of  nature  never  fad  to  afford  me.  I  was  not 
dilappo:nt-:d  ;  indeed,  my  warmed  expectations 
were  exceeded. 

i     i  fir  ft  thing  that  (hikes  a  traveller  from  Bava- 
ria, on  entering  it.  Is  the  Fort  of  Cherink,   built  ;    - 
two   inacceiiible   rock?  winch  feparate  T       I 
frx  n   me  b  in  .      So  ampl 

nature  provided  Tor  the  iecurity   of   this  c 


TYROL  COUNTRY.  1 1 J 

againft  the  incurfion  of  an  enemy,  that  there  is  not 
a  pafs  which  leads  to  it  that  is  no'  through  iome 
narrow  defile  between  mountains  almofr.  inaccr fii- 
ble  ;  and  on  the  rocks  and  brows  of  thole  paries, 
the  emperor  has  conftru&ed  forts  and  citadels,  (a 
advantageoufly  placed,  that  they  command  all  the 
valleys  and  avenues  beneath. 

After  a  variety  of  windings  and  turnings  through 
mountains  of  ftupendous  'height  and  awful  afpett,  I 
began  to  delcend,  and  entered  the  moft  delightful 
valley  I  had  ever  beheld — deep,  long,  and  above  a 
mile  in  breadth — furrounded  with  enormous  piles 
of  mountains,  and  diverhiied  with  the  alternate 
beauties  of  nature  and  cultivation,  fo  as  to  form  an 
union  rarely  to  be  met  with,  and  delight  at  once  the 
eye  of  the  fatmer,  and  the  fancy  of  him  that  has  a 
true  tafte  for  rural  wildneis.  From  the  heights  in 
deicending,  the  whole  appeared  in  all  its  glory  ; 
the  beautiful  river  Inn  gliding  aiong  through  it 
Jongitudinally,  its  banks  (ludded  with  the  mo  ft  ro- 
mantic little  villages,  while  a  number  of  inferior 
ftreams  were  feen  winding  in  different  courfes,  and 
haftenicg  to  pour  their  tribute  into  its  bolom. 

Here  I  felt  my  heart  overwhelmed  with  lenlations 
of  tranfport,  which  all  the  works  of  art  could  never 
infpire  :  here  nature  rufhed  irrefiftibly  upon  my 
lenies,  and,  making  them  captive,  exacted  their  ac- 
knowledgement of  her  fupremacy  :  here  vanity, 
ambition,  luff,  of  fame  and  power,  and  all  the  tin 
ielled,  gaudy  frippery  to  which  habit  and  worldly 
euftom  enflave  the  mind,  retired,  to  make  way  for 
fentiments  of  harmony,  purity,  fimphcity,  and  truth  : 
here  Providence  leemed  to  (peak  in  language  moll 
perluafive,  "  Come  filly  man,  leave  the  wild  tumult, 
the  encilels  fituggle,  the  glittering  follies,  the  fai 
and  Ipurious  pleaiuies  which  artifice  creates,  to  fe- 
duce  you  from  the  true — dwell  here,  and  in  the  lap- 
of  natute  ftudy  me  :"  Here,  oh!  here,  exclaimed  I, 
in   a   aanJport   which   bereft  me,   for  the  time,  of 


2  1 3  ARRIVAL  AT  THE 

every  other  confideration.  here  will  I  dwell  forever. 
The  charm  was  too  finely  fpun,  to  withstand  the 
hard  tugs  of  facl  ;  and  all  its  precious  delufions  va- 
nifhed  before  a  heft  of  gloomy  truths — deranged 
affairs — family  far  off,  with  the  diftance  daily  increa- 
sing— the  hazards  and  the  hardfhips  of  a  long  untried 
journey — and  the  Eaft  Indies,  with  all  its  hsrrors, 
in  the  rear.  I  hung  my  head  in  for  row  ;  and,  of- 
fering up  a  prayer  to  proteel  my  family,  ftrengthen 
my  lei  f,  and  bring  us  once  more  together  in  fome 
fpot  heavenly  as  that  1  pa  (Ted  through,  was  pro- 
ceeding on  in  a  {late  of  dejection  proportionate  to 
my  previous  traniports,  when  I  was  routed  by  my 
poflillion,  who,  pointing  to  a  very  high,  fteep 
rock,  dciired  me  to  take  notice  of  it.  I  did  lb  ; 
but  feeing  nothing  very  remarkable  in  its  appear- 
ance, afked  bim  what  he  meant  by  directing  my  at- 
tention to  it — He  anfwered  me  in  the  following 
manner,  which,  from  the  lingularity  of  the  narra- 
tive, and  his  ftiange  mode  of  telling  it,  I  think  it 
would  injure  to  take  out  of  his  own  words:  I  will, 
therefore,  endeavour,  as  well  as  I  can.  to  give  you 
a  literal  transition  of  it  ;  and,  indeed,  the  im- 
preflion  it  made  on  my  memory  was  fuch,  that,  I 
apprehend,  I  fhall  not  materially  differ  from  his 
words  : 

"  You  muff  know,  Sir,  (for  every  one  in  the 
world  knows.it),  that  all  thefe  mountains  around  us, 
are  the  abodes  of  good  and  evil  fpirits,  or  genii— , 
the  latter  of  whom  are  continually  doing  eveiy  ma- 
licious thing  they  can  devile,  to  injure  the  people 
of  the  country, — fuch  as  leading  them  affray — 
fmothering  them  in  the  fnow — killing  the  cattle  by 
throwing  them  down  precipices — nay,  when  they 
can  do  no  worle,  drying  up  ihe  milk  in  the  udders 
of  the  goats — 3nd,  iomeiimes,  putting  between 
young  men  and  their  Ivveet-hearts,  and  flopping 
their  marriage.  Ten  thouiand  curies  light  upon 
them!    1  ffiould  have  been  married  two  years  ago^ 


TYROL  COUNTRY.  119 

end  had  two  children  to-day,  but  for  their  fchemes. 
In  fhort,  Sir,  if  it  were  not  for  the  others — the 
good  on  js — who  are  always  employed  (and  the 
bi:  fled  Virgin  knows  they  have  enough  on  their 
hands)  in  preventing  the  mifchiefs  of  thole  devils, 
the  whole  place  would  be  deftioyed,  and  the  coun- 
try left  without  a  living  thing,    man  or  goat  !" 

Here  I  could  not,  for  the  life  of  me,  retain  my 
gravity  any  longer,  but  burft,  in  fpite  of  me,  into 
an  immoderate  fit  of  laughter,  which  fo  diiconcert- 
ed  and  offended  him,  that  he  lullenly  refuted  to 
proceed  with  the  (lory  and  farther,  but  continued 
maiking  his  forehead  (his  hat  off)  with  a  thouiand 
erodes,  uttering  pious  ejaculations,  looking  at  me 
with  a  mixture  of  terror,  diftruft,  and  admiration 
and  every  now  and  then  glancing  his  eye  cfkance 
toward  the  hills,  as  if  fearful  of  a  defcent  from  the 
evil  (pints. 

My  curiofity  was  awakened  by  the  very  extraor- 
dinary commencement  of  his  narrative  ;  and  I  de- 
termined, if  pofftble.,  to  hear  it  out  :  io,  afluring 
him  that  I  meant  nothing  either  of  flight  or  wick- 
nefs  by  my  laughter — that  I  had  too  ferious  ideas  of 
fuch  things  to  treat  them  with  levity---and.  what 
was  more  convincing  logic  with  him,  promifing  to 
reward  him  for  it-— he  proceeded  with  his  (lory  as 
follows  : 

"  Well,  Sir,  you  fay  you  were  not  fporting  with 
thofe  fpirits— and  fortunate  it  is  for  you  :  at  all 
events,  Saint  John  of  God  be  our  guide,  and 
bring  us  fafe  to  lnnlpruck.  J"A  fo  the  great 
Maximilian  was  wont  to  laugh  at  them;  and 
you  fhall  hear  how  he  was  pumlhed  for  it-  -and 
that  was  the  flory  I  was  about  to  tell  you.  The 
Emperor  Ma ximili an,  that  glory  of  the  world, 
(he  is  now  in  the  lap  of  the  bl? flVd  Virgin  in  Pa- 
radife),  or.ee  on  a  time,  before  he  was  emperor, 
that  is  to  fav,  when  he  was  archduke,  was  al- 
ways   laughing    at    the   country    people's   fears   of 


120         '  ARRIVAL  AT  THE,  &c. 

thofe  fpi.its — and  an  old  father  of  the  church 
forewarned  him  to  beware,  left  he  fhould  luffer 
for  his  rafhnels  :  fo  one  day  he  went  out  hunting, 
and  at  the  foot  of  tn3t  mountain  a  mod  beautiful 
chamois  darted  before-  him  .;  he  fhot  at  it,  and 
milled  it — (the  fir  ft  fhot  he  had  m-ffed  for  ma- 
ny years,  which  you  know  was  warning  enough 
to  him)— however,  he  followed,  (hooting  at  and 
miffing  it,  the  animal  ftanriing  every  now  and 
then  till  he  came  up  within  fr.ot  of  it  :  thus 
he  continued  till  near  night,  when  the  goat 
disappeared  of  a  fudden,  and  he  found  himlelf 
buried,  as  it  were  in  the  bowels  of  the  mountain  : 
he  endeavoured  to  find  his  way  out,  but  in  vain  ; 
eveiy  ftep  he  took  led  him  moie  aftrav,  and  he  was 
for  two  days  wandering  about,  Christ  lave  us  I 
in  the  frightful  holfcws  of  thole  mountains,  living 
all  the  time  on  wild  berries:  on  the  lecond  night 
be  bethought  jhimfelf  of  his  want  of  faith,  and  of 
the  faying  of  olJ  Father  Jerome  :  and  he  fell  on 
his  knees,  and  wept  and  prayed  all  night  ;  and  the 
Virgin  heard  his  prayers,  he  being  a  good  man, 
and,  above  all,  an  emperor— God  bleis  you  and 
me!  we  fhould  have  peiifhed--- In  the  morning  a 
beautiful  young  man,  dieffed  in  a  pealant's  hab;r, 
came  up  to  him,  gave  him  vi&uaU  and  wine,  and 
defired  him  to  follow  him,  which  he  did,  you  may 
be  lure,  joyfully — but,  On  bltfud  Viigin  !  think 
what  his  iurprife  miaft  have  been,  when,  getting 
again  into  the  plain  out  of  the  mountain,  the 
young  man  diiappeared  and  vamfhed  ail  of  a  fud- 
den. juft  at  the  foot  of  that  deep  rock  which  I 
fhewed  you,  and  which  ever  fiucc  goes  by  the 
name  of  the  emperor's  rock---You  lee  what  a  dan- 
gerous place  it  is,  and  what  dangeious  fpirits  they 
muft  be  that  would  not  fpare  even  the  holy  Roman 
emperor.  In  my  mind,  the  belt  way  is  to  lay  no- 
thing againll  thole  things,  as  iome  faithless  people 
do,  and  to  wotfbip  the  Virgin  ;>nd  keep  a  good  con- 
science, and  then  one  will  have. the  lets  to  fear." 


REFLECTIONS  ON  THE,  &c,       121 

By  the  time  he  had  ended  his  narrative,  we  were 
in  light  of  Innfpruck,  when  I  annoyed  and  teiri- 
£ei  him  afrefh,  by  laughing  immoderately  at  the 
end  of  his  ftovy — but  asoned  in  iomc  mcalure  for 
it,  by  giving  him  half  a  flotin. 

On  inquiring  at  Innfpruck,  I  found  that  Maxi- 
milian nad  actually  loft  his  way  in  the  mountain, 
and  had  been  conducted  out  of  it  by  a  peafant,  who 
left  him  fuddenly  ;  the  reft  was  an  exaggerated  ir.:- 
duionary  tale,  irUing  from  the  •fuperftiiious  fears  of 
the  country  people. 


LETTER    XXII. 


IN    all   nations  under   Heaven,  and   at  all 

times  (ince  the  creation  there  have  been  men  form- 
ed to  make  a  noile  in  the  world — to  increaie  or 
impede,  to  direft  or  d;fturb,  the  calm,  fober  pro- 
gress of  focial  life — and,  in  the  eagernefs  and  vio- 
lence of  their  efforts  to  reach  the  goal  of  fuperio- 
rity,  oveiturn  or  thruft  out  of  their  ordinary  path 
the  reft  of  mankind,  till  either  they  provoke  again  ft 
them  a  general  conlpiracy  of  their  fellow-creatures,* 
or,  till  reaching  the  point  of  their  purfuit,  they 
become  elevated  obje&s  of  homage  and  admiration. 
Such  men  are  generally  compofed  of  great  materials 
for  mifchief: — having  ftrong  natural  talents  and 
violent  ungovernable  fpirits  ;  according  to  the  di- 
rection thefe  get,  they  are  harmlefs  or  mi  chievous 
— but,  like  morbid  matter  in  the  animal  {yftem,  if 
not  let  loofe  by  iome  channel  01  other,  they  never 
fail  to  diftutb  the  whole  economy  of  the  body  they 
belong  to,  and  produce  fatal  conlequences  to  it  and 
to  therr.relves  :  Colonial  poil\  fhons  have  therefore, 
in  force  views,  been  of  ufe  (as  America  formerly  to 

L 


122  REFLECTIONS  ON  THE 

England)  to  draw  off  thofe  dangerous  fpirits,  who, 
though  they  are  in  times  of  peace  belter  at  a  clif- 
tancc,  in  times  of  war  are  found  to  be  the  tougheft 
finews  of  a  nation. 

The  country  of  Tyrol,   fuch  as  I  have  defcribed 
it,  formed    by  nature  for  the  refidence  of  the  Syl- 
van  deities,  rich   in  the  produces  of  the  earth,  the 
people    contented    and    happy,  and    the  whole  the 
region  of  peace  ;  manufactures,  the  firfl  root  of  low 
vices,  and  commerce,   the  great   inftigator  or  war, 
have  fcarcely  been  able  to  fet  their  feet  there  :  hence 
it  happens,   that  there  is  no  channel  through  which 
thofe  exuberant    fpirits  I  have  alluded    to  can  take 
their  courfe,  or  expand  their  force.      Home,  theie- 
fore,   is  no  place  for  thofe  of  the  Tyroleic,  who  are 
curled  or   bleiTed    (call   it    which    you  pleaie)  with 
thole    very    combuftible    qualities;     and    they    are 
obliged    to   roam  abroad   in  feaich  of  opportunities 
of  diftinguifhing   themfelves,  giving  vent   to  their 
fpirits,    and    manifefting    their    talents.     They    are 
found,   therefore,   fcattered  all  over  the  Continent  : 
and  as  it  rarely  happens  that  opportunities  occur  in 
life  of  frgnalifing    iuch  talents   in  a  dignified  line, 
rather   than   be   idle   they  do  what  they  can,  and 
apply   to  chicaneiy   as  a  wide  and  appropriate  field 
for  their   genius   and  vigour  to  woik  on — the  emi- 
giant    Tyrolefe   are,   therefore,  by    moft  nations  of 
the   continent,  reckoned    among    the   mod  expert 
and   acccmplifned  (harpers  in  the  world — the  peo- 
ple, however,   who   remain    at   home,  are  of  a  dif- 
ferent character — they  are,  generally  fpeaking.   tall, 
robufl,  and  vigorous;  the  women  ftrong    and  very 
fair;  and  both  lexes  exhibit  a  very  pleafir.g  mixture 
of  German    phlegm    and   Italian    fprightlmels  ;  or, 
to  lpeak   more  properly,    they  are  a  meaR  between 
thofe  two  extremes. 

Innfpruck,  though  a  fmall  city,  is  handfome  and 
agreeable,  (landing  in  a  very  beautiful  valley,  iur- 
rounded  with  mountains,  which,  while  their  lower 


TYROLESE.  123 

ports  are  well  cultivated,  are  capped  on  the  tops 
witri  perennial  [now.  The  caRle  formerly  the  reli- 
4ence  of  the  Auftrian  princes  is  (lately  arid  magni- 
ficent, adorned  within  with  fine  paintings,  and 
decorated  without  by  natutal  and  artificial  foun- 
ta.^s,  ftatues,  pleafant  gardens,  groves,  walks,  and 
coveied  galleries,  leading  to  five  different  churches. 

Apropos — Let  me  not  forget  the  churches  !  In  a 
chapel  of  the  Francifcan  church,  there  is  an  image 
of  the  Virgin  Mary  as  big  as  the  life,  of  folid 
Giver,  with  many  other  images  of  faints  of  the 
larne  metal.  If  icme  of  thole  filver  deities  were 
transfeued  to  Paris.  1  fear  their  divinity  would  not 
iave  them  from  the  hands  of  the  faci ;:<"^ious  Con- 
vention. One,  thijjg,  however,  is  uui  woti-h  the 
attention  of  travellers,  pariicuiaily  thefe  who  Willi 
to  wipe  away  the  fins  of  a  deceafed  friend,  and  get 
them  a  direft  paifport  to  happinels — This  Erancif. 
can  church  is  held  to  be  one  of  the  mod  iacred  and 
venerable  in  the  world,  on  account  of  the  indul- 
gences granted  to  it  by  feveral  popes  ;  fo  that  one 
fingle  mals  laid  in  it,  is  declared  to  be  fufficient  to 
deliver  a  foul  from  the  pains  of  purgatory.  When 
we  confider  the  great  and  important  extent  of  their 
power  in  that  refpect.,  we  cannot  wonder  if  they 
had  all  the  faints  in  the  calendar,  and  the  Virgin 
Mary  to  boot,  in  folid  hiver,  even  of  the  f:ze  of 
the  Coloflus  at  Rhodes. 

Hall,  the  fecond  city  in  Tyrol,  Hes  one  league 
from  Innfpruck  :  it  is  famous  for  its  lalt.-works, 
and  for  a  mint  and  filver  mines,  in  which  leven 
thoufand  men,  women,  and  children  are  conflantly 
employed. 

At  a  royal  palace  and  caflle  called  Ombras.  lying 
at  equal  difhnce  from  Innipruck  and  Hall,  there 
is  an  arfenal,  famous  for  a  prodigious  collection  of 
curiofities,  fuch  as  medals,  precious  Hones,  fuits  of 
armour,  and  flatues  of  feveral  princes  on  horfeback, 
in  their  old  rich   fighlirg   accoutrements  5  beftdes 


i  24  REFLECTIONS  ON  THE 

great  variety  of  military  fpoils  and  trophies  taken 
by  the  Houle  of  Auftna  ;  in  particular,  a  ftatue  of 
Francis  the  Fiift  and  his  horfe,  juft  as  they  were 
!;>ken  at  the  battle  of  Pavia,  and  two  others  of 
Tutkiih  bafhaws,  w;-h  the  coftiy  habits  and  appoint- 
with  which  they  were  taken,  embellifhed 
th  gold,  filver,  and  precious  ftones.  But,  above 
aril  their  curiohties,  the  meft  extraordinarv  is  an  o<ik 
mc  he   body  of  a    deer:   this   laft,   however 

tmaCcotmtabfce,  is  f aft  ;  arid  equals,   I  thirk,  any  of 
the  wonders  in  the  metarnorphotes  of   Ovid. 

Leaving  Innlpruck,  I  proceeded  on  my  journey, 

d    loon   entered    into   the  mountains,   which    arc 

there  of  a  terrible  height— -I  was  the  beft  part  of  a 

afcending  them  :   as  I  got    near  the   top,   I  wag 

,  by  my  diivcr,  the  [pot  where  Ferdinand, 

kng  of  Hungary,   and   the  Emperor  Charles  tne 

Fifth,  met,  when  he  returned  fiom  Africa,  in  the- 

year  1510.      It    is    ma'ked    with    an   inlcriptiun    to 

that    eiicft,   arid    his    grown    into   a    little    village, 

which,    from   that  circumitance,   beats  the  name  of 

the  S  dutat  on. 

this  mountain,   called  Brerr.enberg  (or 
covered     with     (now    tor    nine 
yew,  it  is  inhabited  to  the  ve;y  top,, 
and    produces    eorh    and    hay    in  abundar.ee  ;   at  tne 
I    part    there   is  a  p:  it-houe.   a  tavern,  and  a 
5   where   the    traveller    is  accommodated  with, 
f._ih  horfes,  provifion.*,  and,  if  he  chooies,  a  mouth- 
ful  of   •  •         s— 1    availed   myielf  of  the  two  hid  ;. 
bur  the  ratter  being    not    altogether    in    my    way,    I 
te:i:::^  it,    (br  ivhieh  I  could  perceive  that  I  was,, 
by  every  mouth  and  eye  in  the  place,   coniigned   to 
perdition  as  a  heretic. 

Juft  at  this  (pot  there  is  a  fpring  of  water  which 
falls  upon  a  rock,  _and  divides  into  two  currents, 
which,  at  a  very  (mall  diftance,  a  flu  me  the  appear- 
ance, and,  in  (n£it  the  magnitude  too,  of  very  large 
rivers.     The  mountain  is  iomettmes  difEcu-k  to  pa'^,. 


TYROLESE.  125 

fometimes  abfolutely  impracticable— I  was  fortunate, 
however,  in  this  rclpeci;  ;  for  I  got  over  it  without 
any  very  extraordinary  delay,  and  on  my  way  was 
legaled  with  the  moll  delicious  venifon  that  I  have 
ever  tailed  in  my  life  ;  it  was  faid  to  be  the  flefh  of 
a  kind  of  goat. 

Although  it  is  but  thirty-five  miles  from  Inn- 
fpruck  to  Brifen,  it  was  late  when  I  reached  the 
latter  ;  and  as  it  contained  nothing  worth  either  the 
trouble  or  delay  attending  the  learch  of  it,  I  fet  oat 
the  next  morning,  and,  travelling  with  high  moun- 
tains on  one  fide,  and  a  river  all  along  upon  the 
other,  arrived  at  a  town  called  Boliano,  in  the 
biihopric  of  Trent.  The  country  all  along  was 
thickly  inhabited,  and  the  mountains  perfectly  cul- 
tivated and  manured  even  to  their  highell  tops. 
On  entering  the  valley  of  Bolfano,  I  found  the  air 
becoming  obviouily  tweet,  delightful,  and  tempe- 
rate ;  the  vineyards,  and  all  the  trees  and  fhrubs, 
olives,  mulberries,  willows,  and  ro!@s,  &c.  of  all 
the  naoft  lively  green,  and  every  thing  marking  the 
moll  luxuriant  vegetation. 

Bolfano  is  a  fmall,  but  extremely  neat  and  plea- 
fant  town — but  nothing  1  law  about  it  pleafed  me 
fo  much  as  their  vineyards,  which  are  planted  in 
long  terraces  along  the  fides  of  the  hills,  and  are 
formed  into  the  moll  beaatiful  arbours,  one  row 
above  another. 

From  Bolfano  to  Trent,  is  fifty-one  miles,  a  good 
day's  journey  :  almofl  the  whole  of  it  lies  through 
the  valley  of  Bollano,  a  mod  fruitful  and  pleafant 
— indeed,  delightful  road,  which  made  the  day's 
journey  appear  to  me  much  fhorter  than  it  really 
was. 

Perhaps  no  part  of  the  habitable  globe  is,  within 
the  lame  comparatively  fmall  compafs  of  earth,  (o 
wonderfully  diverfified  by  the  hand  of  natuie  in  all 
her  extremes,  as  ihat  through  which  I  have  juft 
carried  you.     There,  under   almofl  the  fame  glance 

L  2 


126  BISHOPRIC  OF 

of  the  eye,  were  to  be  feen  the  ftupendous,  the 
rugged,  the  favage,  and  the  inacceflible — the  mild, 
the  fruitful,  and  the  cultivated.  Here,  the  moun- 
tain capped  with  perpetual  fnow,  gradually  falling 
in  blended  gradations  of  fhade,  far  beyond  the  reach 
of  the  artift's  pencil,  into  the  green  luxuriant  val- 
ley ;  and  there,  the  vineyard,  the  olivary,  and  the 
rich  corn-field,  burfting  at  once  from  rugged  rocks 
and  inacceflible  faftneffes  :  the  churlifh  alpeft  of 
the  tyrant  winter  for  ever  prowling  on  the  moun- 
tain's head  above — perpetual  fpring  ftniling  with  all 
her  faicinating  charms  in  the  plains  below.  Such, 
fcenes  as  thefe  would  baffle  all  efforts  of  the  poet'* 
pen  or  painter's  pencil  :  to  be  conceived,  they 
muft  be  ieen.  I  fhall  therefore  cloie  my  account  of 
them  with  a  ftrong  recommendation  to  you,,  that 
whenever  you  travel  for  improvement,  you  go 
through  the  Country  of  Tyrol,  and  there  learn  the 
great  and  marvellous  working  of  nature 


LETTER    XXIII. 


P; 


ERHAPS  the  learned  unwife  men  of  the 
world,  who  ipend  their  lives  poring  after  impoflV- 
bilities,  have  never  met  with  a  more  copious  lub- 
j  ft  of  puzzle-pated  enjoyment  than  the  derivation 
of  the  names  of  places.  In  all  dilputed  cafes  on 
this  fubjeft,  the  utmoft  within  human  reach  is  con- 
jecture ;  but  the  joke  of  it  is,  that,  fortunately  for 
mankind,  the  certainty  of  it  would  not  be  of  a 
{ingle  button  advantage  to  them,  even  if  it  could 
be  acquired  by  their  fearch.  Doctor  Goldsmith, 
in  his  Citizen  of  the  World,  fias  thrown  this  matter 
into  high  lid.cule;  and  I  recommend  it  to  your 
perufalj  led   this  fhadow  of  literature  ftiould  one 


TRENT  DESCRIBED.  127 

day  wheedle  you  from  more  refpe£table  purfuits. 
Trent  has  afforded  vaft  exercife  to  book-worm  con- 
jectures in  this  way  ;  for,  while  lome  pronounce  it 
to  be  deiived  from  Tridentum,  and  for  this  pur*- 
pofe  will  have  it  that  Neptune  was  worfnipped 
there,  though  fo  far  from  the  lea — others  claim  the 
difcovcry  of  its  derivation  from  Tribus  Torren- 
tibus,  or  three  dreams  which  run  there.  Now,  as 
to  the  firff,  exclufive  of  forcing  Neptune  all  the 
way  from  the  Gulph  of  Venice  to  their  temples, 
I  cannot  find  any  fuch  fimilarity  in  the  found  of 
Trent  and  Trident  to  warrant  the  inference  ;  and 
as  to  the  Tribus  Torrentibus,  they  might  as  well 
jay  that  a  primmer  or  hornbook  was  found  there, 
and  that  thence  it  was  derived  from  the  alphabet, 
iince  the  fame  analogy  fubfifled  between  them, 
namely,  that  the  letters  t,*,e,n,t  are  to  be  found 
in  both.  But,  in  the  name  of  God,  what  fignifies 
what  it  was  called  after  ?  Its  name  is  Trent  ;  and 
if  it  had  been  Putney,  or  John  o'  Groat's  houfe, 
the  town  would  be  neither  the  better  nor  the  worfe, 
nor  the  treafures  of  literature  iuffer  any  defalcation 
from  the  difference. 

The  bifhopric  of  Trent  is  about  fixty  nr.les  long, 
and  forty  broad — fertile,  and  abundant  in  wine,  oil, 
fruit,  and  paflure — and  pleafant,  the  beautiful  river 
Adige  meandering  through  the  whole  of  it  from 
noith  to  fouth.  The  inhabitants  are  bigoted  Ro- 
man Catholics — you  will  the  lefs^  wonder,  then, 
that  the  bifhop  fhouid  have  fo  extenftve  a  princi- 
pality, and  an  annual  revenue  of  forty  thouiand 
crowns. 

As  I  receded  from  Germany,  and  advanced  to- 
wards Italy,  1  found  the  air.  the  perfons,  and  the 
manners  of  the  people,  to  difplay  a  very  great  dif- 
ference, and  to  referable  thofe  of  the  Italians  more 
than  thole  of  the  Germans.  Though  Popifh  big- 
otry be  pretty  (Irong  in  many  parts  of  Germany, 
it  no  where  there  affumes  the  gloomy,  detcftable 
afpeft  that  it  does  in  Italy. 


128  BISHOPRIC  OF 

And  now,  fince  I  have  happened  to  mention  the 
characters  of  thele  two  peopie,  I  may  as  well,  once 
for  all,  more  particulaily  as  we  aie  got  to  the  verge 
of  both,  give  you  them  in  full  ;  in  both  which  I 
am  warranted  in  laying,  that  all  who  know  the  two 
will  agree  with  me. 

reihaps  contiaft  was  never  more  perfectly  exem- 
plified than  in  a  comparifon  between  the  Germans 
and  Italians  ;  and  that  contraft  ftrikes  more  forcibly 
and  fuodenly  in  palling  from  one  countiy  to  the 
other,  than  it  would  in  io  fhort  a  Ipacc  beiween 
any  two  people  exifling.  The  Italians,  jealous, 
revengeful,  treacherous,  diflembiing,  lervi'ie,  vici- 
ous, fanguinary,  idle,  3nd  lenfual.  The  Germans, 
on  the  contrary,  open,  good-natured,  free  from 
malice  and  iubrlety,  laborious,  fincere,  honeft,  and 
hoipitable — and,  with  thole  valuable  qualities,  pro- 
perly complaifanr.  So  happy  is  the  chai^eler  of 
this  people,  that  to  be  German-hearted  has  long 
been  a  phrafe  fignifying  an  honeft  man  who  hated 
diOimulation  :  and  their  holpitaliiy  was,  even  in 
the  davs  of  Tulius  C^isar,  rcmaikable  :  for  we 
icarn  from  him,  that  thc*r  houfes  woe  open  to  all 
roen — that  they  thought  it  mjuflice  to  affront  a 
traveller,  and  made  it  an  article  of  their  religion  to 
proutt  thole  who  came  under  their  roof.  D  d  not 
intemperance  in  eating  and  drinking  detratt  from 
their  virtues,  no  people  on  earth  would  bear  com- 
parifon with  them  for  intrinhc  worth,  and  particu- 
larly for  integrity  in  dealing. 

The^city  of  Trent,  though  not  very  large  in  cir- 
cumference, is  populous.  The  high  mountains 
which  lurround  it,  iubject  it  to  all  tne  inconveni- 
ences of  heat  and  cold — rendering  the  air  excefTive- 
}y  hot  in  hummer,  and  extremely  cold  in  winU  .  ; 
befides  which,  they  expole  the  town  to  dreadful 
inundations — the  torrents  that  dece nd  from  the 
mountains  being  iomstimes  fo  im;  et^aus  as  to  roll 
large  pieces  of  lock  with  them  into  ir.  a. id  having 
feverai  times  laiu  the  whole  place  wafte. 


TRENT  DESCRIBED.  129 

There  are  in  Trent  many  (lately  palaces,  church- 
es, and  religious  houfes.  The  only  one,  however, 
that  I  will  particularize,  is  that  of  Saint  Mary 
Major,  noted  for  a  prodigious  large  organ,  which 
can  be  made  to  counterfeit  all  (oris  of  mufical  in- 
ftruments,  together  with  the  finging  of  birds,  the 
cries  of  feveral  beads,  and  the  iounds  of  drums 
and  trumpets,  fo  exactly,  that  it  is  difficult  to  dif- 
tinguifh  between  the  imitation  and  the  reality.  To 
what  an  end  fuch  an  inflrument  fhould  be  let  up 
in  a  place  of  worfliip,  1  am  at  a  lois  to  divine,  un- 
lefs  it  be  to  add  to  the  rich,  uielefs  lumber  that  fills 
all  thofe  of  Popifh  countries. 

But  that  which  diftinguifhes  this  church  Mill  fur- 
ther, is,  that  it  is  the  place  where jthe  famous  Coun- 
cil of  Trent  was  held,  concerning  the  Reformation, 
at  which  four  thouland  perlonsofa  public  chaiacVr, 
laymen  and  ccclefiaftic*,  aflifted.  This  Council  iat 
eighteen  years  before  it  did  any  thing  ;  but  at  la  it 
the  Pope  contrived  to  get  the  aicendant  ;  and,  after 
debating  and  deliberating  fo  long,  not  only  the  Pro- 
teiLnts,  but  even  the  German  and  French  naiions, 
lefufed  to  receive  its  decrees.  Certain  of  the  cler- 
gy, finding  the  aicendancy  that  the  negotiation  of 
the  Pope  was  getting  in  this  council,  laid  that  the 
Holy  Ghoft  had  been  fent  there  from  Rome  in  a 
doakbag  ! 

Trent  once  boafted  a  curiofity — which  indeed 
ftill  remains,  though  out  of  uie— -that,  I  think, 
would  be  found  Serviceable  in  rnoft  towns  in  Chrif- 
tendom,  and  ellewhere  too,  and  particularly  at 
Bath,  and  iuch  places.  It  was  a  tower  on  the  river 
Adige,  into  which  the  ftream  was  conduced,  for 
the  purpofe  of  drowning  luch  of  the  clergy  as  werfe 
convicted  of  having  been  too  familiar  with  their 
neighbours'  wives  and  daughters' 

The  people  of  Trent  ipeak  promifcoufly,  andin- 
diiferentiy,  both  the  German  and  Italian  languages  ; 
but  wiiether  well  or  not,  I  was  not  adept  enough 
to  di {cover. 


ItO  BISHOPRIC  or 


J 


My  next  (lage  was  Badano,  a  town  in  the  terri- 
tory of  Viacenza  in  Italy,  fuuated  at  the  end  of  a 
very  long  norrcw  valley.  It  is  watered  by  the  river 
Brenia,  which  wafhes  that  very  rich,  fertile,  lerene, 
healrhy,  and  plentiful  diftrici  of  Italy,  lo  celebrated 
for  its  admirable  wines,  as  well  as  for  its  fine  pa{- 
ture-grounds,  rich  corn-ficldb,  and  prodigious  abun- 
dar.ee  of  g<ime,  cattle,  and  mniberi  v-i  iee:>  ;  from  all 
which  it  is  called  the  Garden  and  Shambles  ot  Ve- 
nice. 

The  next  dav  I  arrived  at  an  eaily  hour  at  Ve- 
nice, the  acicription  of  which  I  fhall  not  injure  by 
commencing  *t  with  the  mutilated  fragment  of  a 
letter,  and  ihall  therefore  poltpone  it  to  my  next. 

Thus,  rny  dear  Frederick,  have  I,  in  order  to 
pteiei  ve  the  unity  and  order  of  my  prrgiefs,  brought 
yoa  through  Germany  with  a  precile  regularity,  that, 
if  I  was  not  wifhing  for  your  improvement,  might 
be  difpenfed  with — yet  have  left  much,  very  much 
indeed,  untouched,  in  the  confidence  that  you  will 
younelf  have  the  induftry  to  find  it  out. 

I  confefs,  my  dear  boy,  that  1  have  often,  as  I 
wrote,  detected  myielf  in  excurfions  from  the  road 
into  moral  reflection — but  I  could  not  ftop  :  your 
improvement  was  my  object  in  undertaking  the  bu- 
fineis  j  and  I  could  not  refrain  from  endeavouring  to 
inculcate  fuch  leffons  as  the  progrefs  of  the  work 
luggefted,  and  as  imprelled  my  mind  with  a  con- 
viction of  their  truth  and  utility. 

Vou  mud  have  obierved,  that  there  are  two  to- 
pics on  which  I  dwell  very  much — one,  Liberty 
——the  other,  an  abhorence  of  bigotry  and  fupeiiti- 
tion.  But,  before  I  proceed  further,  1  muit  call 
to  your  remembrance  what  I  have  often  la:d,  that 
by  liberty  I  do  not  mean  that  which  lome  people 
now  give  that  name  to---nor  do  I  mean  religion 
when  I  lpe^k  of  bigotry  ;  for  true  liberty  is  (till 
more  incompatible  with  anarchy  than  with  dei^ol- 


DESC1PTION  OF  VENICE.  131 

*fm,  and  fuperftition  is  the  greateft  enemy  of  reli» 
gion.  Let  the  fiift  obje£t  of  your  heart  and  loul  be 
true  morality—the  next,  rational  liberty  :  but  re- 
member, that  the  one  is  not  to  be  found  indepen- 
dent of  religion,  nor  the  other  over  to  be  enjoyed 
but  under  the  retraining  hands  of  wholefome  laws 
and  good  government— fuch  as  England  now  boafts. 
In  theie  times,  when  human  opinion  is  actually 
polled  on  the  two  extremes  of  political  judgment, 
J  know,  that  to  fpeak.  rationally,  is  to  incur  the 
cenfure  of  both,  or  to  be,  as  Pope  fomewhere  fays, 
•*  by  tories  called  a  whig,  by  whigs  a  toiy  :"  but  I 
care  not — I  Ipeak  my  opinion  with  the  fair  face 
of  independence  ;  nor  would  leruple  to  tell  the 
King  of  Prussia  my  hatred  of  celpotifm,  or  the 
Convention  of  France  my  abhorrence  of  anarchy-— 
between  bo*h  of  which  the  true  and  genuine  point 
of  liberty  lies;  and  England,  thank  God]  draws 
the,  line* 


LETTER    XXIV. 


A: 


.S  I  approached  Venice,  I  was  much 
delighted  with  its  appe  .ranee.  Its  ftately  fteeples 
and  noble  buildings  ieemed  a^  if  jift  emerging  from 
the  iea,  and  floating  on  the  furface  of  it  ;  a  id  it 
required  no  great  flretch  of  fancy  to  imagine,  that 
it  undulated  with  the  agitated  waves  of  its  parent 
the  Adiiatic.  On  all  the  furrounding  coafb.  na- 
ture and  ait  feemed  to  have  vied  with  c.Tch  other  in 
pouring  the  greateft  profufiun  of  their  gif  s,  while 
thou  lands  of  mails,  icattered  like  for^its  over  the 
furrounding  bays,  denoted  that  Venice,  not  cort* 
tent  with  her  own,  fhared  in  the  wealth  and  luxu- 
ries of  oiher  climes. 


132         DESCRIPTION  OF  VENICE. 

It  is  indeed  difficult  to  conceive  a  more  extraor- 
dinary and  pleafing  appearance  than  this  city  makes 
at  a  diflance,  whether  you  approach  it  from  the  lea 
or  irom  the  continent.  Built  not  like  towns  in 
Holland,  where  immenfe  moles  and  walls  pufh  the 
iea  forward,  and  encroach  on  his  dominion,  it 
(lands  on  piles  ere£led  in  the  lea  ;  and  the  founda- 
tions of  the  houfes  almofl  touching  the  water,  gives 
it  the  appeatance  of  floating  on  its  furface.  The 
fleeples  are  feen  at  fea  at  the  diftance  of  thirty  miles  ; 
and  the  prolpe£l  becomes  more  beautiful  the  nearer 
it  is  appioached — preienting  in  many  views  the  ap- 
pearance of  floating  iflands. 

To  ere£l  a  city  thus  upon  the  water,  while  (o 
many  thouiands  of  acres  (land  unoccupied,  at  ftrft 
irght  fcems  extraordinary — but  all  thofe  great  and 
flrange  deviations  from  the  ordinary  path  pre  Tented 
by  nature,  have  their  fource  in  neceflity  :  and  it  is 
not  till  long  after  the  nect  fiity  has  been  fir  ft  lament- 
ed, and  afterwards  obviated,  that  experience  comes 
into  aid,  and  demoftrates,  that,  from  her,  lecurity 
and  utility  have  often  aiiien.  Thus  it  is  with  Ve- 
nice, who,  notified  by  her  local  lituation  (the  eiToit 
of  nccelTi:yj,  fi:s  iecuie,  and  bids  defiance  to  the 
wot  Id. 

The  place  where  Venice  now  {lands,  is  fuppofed 
to  havr  been  formerly  a  matfhy  gtound,  on  which 
the  Adriatic  Sea  had  gradually  encroached,  leaving 
the  more  elevated  parts  of  it  above  water,  and  there- 
by forming  a  vaft  number  of  little  iflands,  hence 
called  Lagunes  :  on  thofe  the  (ifhermen  of  the 
neighbouring  fhores  bult  their  huts  ;  and  when 
Italy  was  invaded  by  the  Goths  under  Alaric, 
and  afterwards  by  that  barbarous  race  the  Huns,  un- 
der Attila,  both  of  whom  {pread  ruin  and  def- 
lation wherever  they  came,  vafk  numbers  of  pcot  le 
from  the  circumjacent  fhores  of  the  Adriatic,  par- 
ticularly fiom  Padua  and  Aqudeia,  fled  hither,  and 
brought  alot.g  v,  iui  them  immenle  wealth.     Here 


DESCRIPTION  OF  VENICE.         133 

they  laid  the  firft  foundations  on  feventy-two  dif- 
tinft  little  iflands,  and  certainly  with  huts,  of  a 
city  which  afterwards  flood  almoll  foremoft  in  the 
naval  and  commercial  world  :  as  thofe  iflands  were 
built  upon,  and  became  over-people,  they  gradually 
pufhed  forward  their  piles,  and  built  upon  therrt 
aga  n,  till  the  whole  became  one  vaft  city,  extend- 
ing to  many  more  of  thole  iflands  beyond  the  ori- 
ginal leventy-two. 

As  it  was  indebted  in  a  great  meafure,  for  its  rife 
and  importance  to  the  commerce  of  the  Eaft,  which 
then  was  carried  on  by  way  of  the  Red  Sea  and 
Alexandria,  when  the  palT-jge  by  the  Cape  of  Good 
Hope  was  dilcovered,  that  trade  declined  and  Ve- 
nice declined  gradually  along  with  it. 

It  is  amazing,  what  an  extent  of  territory  and 
accumulation  of  power  the  Venetians  once  poll  f- 
fed.  Befides  their  preient  poffisflions,  which  com- 
prehend the  territories  of  Padua  and  Verona,  the 
Vmcentine,  the  Breicians,  the  Bergamales,  the 
Crernaico,  the  Polefm  of  Rovigo,  Marca  Trevi- 
giana,  the  Patria  del  Friuii,  and  Iftria,  they  had 
under  their  dominion  the  iflands  of  Rhodes,  Scio, 
Samos,  Mytilene,  Andios,  Candia,  the  Motea, 
and  the  cities  of  Gallipoli  and  Thedilonica  :  b. fides 
which,  theyj  in  conjunction  with  France,  took. 
Conftantinopie,  and  remained  for  feme  time  mailers 
of  that  part  of  the  Empire  ;  and  difputed  the  do- 
minion of  Sclavonia,  Croatia,  Moriachia  aild  Dal- 
ixialia,  with  the  Kings  of  Hungary,  atui  contended 
with  the  Genoefe  fo*  the  empire  of  the  lea  :  but  of 
a  gieat  part  of  theie,  and  their  other  conquefts, 
have  iince  been  (tripped,  almoll  entirely,  by 
the  Turks. 

As    to  the   government  of   Venice,    I   fhall  not 
enter  into  any  particulars  of  its  hiflovy — It   is  call- 
ed a   republic,    and   wag  ence   a  democracy.     The 
name    remains,   while  that    which  gave    it    is  g 
It  is,  certainly,  now  a  downright  anflocracy — the 

M 


134         DESCRIPTION  OF  VENICE. 

privilege  of  fitting  in  the  great  Council  being 
confined  to  the  nobility  ;  and  the  doge,  under  the 
name  of  head,  being  no  rr.ore  than  a  gaudy  flave, 
loaded  with  fetters  :  yet,  (uch  is  the  idle  iondnefs 
of  man  for  fuperficial  pomp,  that  this  office  is 
lought  after  with  avidity  ;  for  though  his  power 
be  Imail,  his  ftate  is  very  Iplendid.  Hence  it  is 
faic),  that  the  doge  of  Venice  is  a  king  in  his  robes, 
a  fen?tor  in  council,  a  priloner  in  the  city,  and  a 
private  man  out  of  it  ;  and  what  is  more  extraordi- 
nary, is,  that  though  he  may  be  depofed,  he  cannot 
refign — nor  even  decline  the  office,  if  he  be  once 
cholen,  without  expofing  himfelf  to  banifhment, 
and  his  effects  to  confifcation. 

The  efUb  .ihed  religion  of  this  ftate  is  the  Ro- 
man Catholic  ;  but  the  Venetians  are  not  bigots, 
and  reject  the  iupremacy  of  the  Pope.  Jews,  Ar- 
menians, Greeks,  and  Pioteftants,  are  allowed  the 
exercife  of  their  religion  there  :  and,  provided  they 
do  not  intermeddle  with  ftate  affairs,  of  which  they 
are  extremely  jealous,  even  their  priefts,  monks, 
and  nuns,  may  take  almcft  any  liberties  they  pleafe 
—a  privilege  that  you  may  be  affured  is  not  neglect- 
ed by  any  of  them. 

As  few  places  have  excited  greater  admiration 
and  attention  than  Venice,  fo  none  have  been  more 
copioufly  defcribedby  travellers,  every  one  of  whom 
may,  when  he  returns  to  his  native  country,  give 
a  very  accurate  account  of  the  public  buildings, 
curiofities,  paintings,  &c.  by  only  trarflating  the 
book  given  to  him  by  his  valet  de  place,  or  cice- 
rone, on  his  arrival  there — It  is  certain,  Venice 
abounds  with  all  thofe,  particularly  paintings  ;  but 
1  had  not  the  time  minutely  to  inveftigate  ;  nor 
fhould  I  have  the  inclination,  if  1  did,  to  defcnbe 
fuch  things:  they  are  open  to  you  in  many  well 
written  \ Glumes,  which  I  recommend  to  your  pe- 
iinual.  S;ch  things,  however,  as  flrike  me  for 
their  novelty,    or   difference  from  thole  in  other 


DESCRIPTION  OF  VENICE.         135 

places,   I  will,  as  well  as  I  can  rccollecl  them,  give 
you  ?n  idea  of. 

To  their  local  filiation  they  own  their  fecurity — 
feparated  from  terra  Jtrrna  by  a  body  of  water  of 
five  miles  in  breadth,  too  deep  to  be  forded,  and 
too  (hallow  for  ve{T:ds  of  force  to  pals  ;  and  on  the 
other  Tides,  by  fcaitered  (hallows,  the  channels  be- 
tween which  arc  marked  out  by  fUkes,  whrch,  on 
the  appearance  of  an  enemy,  they  can  take  aw..y  ; 
they  bid  defiance  to  hoftile  army  or  navy,  and  have 
not  been  reduced  to  the  neceflity  to  erecting  walls 
or  fortifications  for  their  defence. 

The  firft  peculiarity  that  iinkes  me,  as  ariftng 
immediately  f;otn  their  living,  I  miy  fay,  in  tlve 
lea,  is  the  total  exclufion  of  all  lort  of  carnages  ; 
for  thofe  flreets  that  are  on  firm  ground  are  ex- 
tremely narrow  and  crooked  ;  and  on  moft  of  the 
canals,  fo  far  from  having  a  quay  on  either  fide  to 
walk  on,  the  water  comes  up  to  the  doors  of  the 
houfes  ;  fo  that  walking  is  but  little  known,  for 
they  get  into  a  boat  off  their  threfhold,  and  their 
nift  flop  out  of  it  again  is,  ten  to  one,  on  the 
threfhold  of  another.  This  circumftar.ee,  thous.h 
in  fome  re f peels  it  has  its  uies,  is,  in  others,  ex- 
tremely dilagreeable,  as  weil  as  injurious  ;  for-, 
though  thole  who  have  occafion  to  labour  have  u 
fufficiency  of  exercife,  thofe  whole  condition  ex- 
empts them  from  labour,  and  who,  therefore,  m 
all  other  countries,  reiort  to  artificial  labour  (exer- 
ciie)  for  the  promotion  of  health,  are  here  entirely 
cut  off  from  all  iuch  means  of  it  as  we  praclile, 
having  neither  hunting,  {hooting,  riding,  bowling, 
&c.  &c.  nor  can  they  have  them,  unlels  they  go  to 
the  Continent  for  them*  The  chief  amafements  of 
the  Venetians  aie  referved  for  the  carnival  time, 
which  commences  about  a  week  after  Chriftmas, 
and  which,  therefore,  I  could  not  fee  ;  but,  from 
the  concunent  teft'.mony  of  all  travellers  and  the 
people  ihemlelves,  as  well  as  from  the  evidence  of 


l$6         DESCRIPTION  OF  VENICE. 

try  own  obfervation  on  the  manners  of  the  people, 
I  am  well  warranted  in  laying,  ate  feflivals  of  de- 
bauchery, riot,  and  licentiouinel.«.  This  is  a  fub- 
ject  on  which  I  am,  neverthelels,  diipoied  to  be- 
lieve, that  more  has  been  laid  than  truth  will  bear 
out  —  yet,  a  bare  flatement  of  the  truth,  would,  I 
fear,  bear  hard  enough  upon  the  moral  chaiatter,  oc 
at  Icaft  ihe  piety,  of  the  Venetians. 

That  maiquerades  are  the  very  worft  fchools  of 
vice,  the  private  anecdotes  of  the  beau  mondc  even 
in  England  might  iuffice  to  demonftrate — That 
courtezans  are  found  iolt  to  all  fenie  of  mode  ft  y  and 
common    decency,    the    ftreets    of    London    afford 

nightly    pioofs Therefore,     that     malquerading 

(which  is  the  smuiement  of  the  Venetians)  fhould 
cloak  many  crimes,  and  that  their  courtezaus  (hould 
be  fhamelefs  and  their  women  lewd,  is  no  fuch 
wonder,  feeing,  as  we  do,  thoie  things  in  this 
Northern  clime;  but  we  may,  without  any  illibe- 
raliiy,  Cup  pole,  that,  from  phyGcaj  tauies  of  the 
molt  obvious  kind,  they  aie  carried  to  a  gieater  ex- 
tent there  than  here  :  though  one  of  the  mofi  en- 
lightened and  amiable  of  all  travellers  lays  it  would 
be  hard  to  be  picvetl,  yet,  with  deference  to  h.m, 
I  think  it  may  be  rationally  luppoied. 

There  is  an  active  principle  in  the  mind  of  nv.n 
which  will  not  (offer  it  to  rcfl  ;  it  miift  have  feme 
materials  to  woik  upon.  Men,  enlightened  by  ici- 
ence,  have  wiihm  themlelves  a  fund,  and  can  never 
want  food  for  contemplation  ;  but  the  many,  in 
thole  hours  when  a  iulpenfiou  qf  laboui  or  woilaly 
bufineis  diives  them  to  expedients  for  the  employ- 
ment of  th*ir  time,  aie  but  too  prone  to  leave  the 
mind  to  the  guidance  of  the.  lenies.  and  to  cognate 
on  vice  till  they  wifli  to  practiie  it.  Hence  that 
homely  hut  tiue  laying,  ;'  Idlenels  is  the  loot  of  all 
cv.l."  In  England  we  have  a  variety  of  expedi- 
ents which  the  Vene:ians  want,  whole  minds  be- 
ing befides  naturally  more  vivklj  arc  more  prompt 


REFLECTIONS  GN  THE.  &c.        137 

to  give  a  loofe  to  the  warm  illufions  of  fenfual 
fancv.  Thus  prepared,  they  meet  the  carnival, 
when  every  thing  conlpires  to  give  circulation  to 
indulgence  ;  and  when  thole  operations  of  the  mind 
which  with  us  have  lo  many  channels  to  difcharge 
themielves,  with  them,  like  a  vail  dream  luddenly 
confined  to  one  narrow  channel,  burft  forth  with 
an  irrefiflable  torrent,  and  carry  away  before  them 
every  bond  that  religion  or  morality  has  laid  down 
as  reftraints  on  the  exhuberance  of  human  pafRon. 
The  cuftoms  and  habits  of  the  place  and  time  con- 
tribute to  it ;  for,  while  the  ievere  retlriclions  of 
the  female  lex  for  the  reft  of  the  year  fharpen  both 
inclination  and  invention  on  the  one  hand — on  the 
other,  the  unbounded  licenie,  the  univerfai  change 
of  habits,  cuftoms  and  laws — the  total  lufpenfion 
of  all  distinction,  care,  or  bufinefs  which  take  place 
at  that  time,  aided  by  perpetual  maiquerade — and 
thofe  mod  convenient  of  all  receptacles,  the  gon- 
dolas, with  thofe  mod  expert  and  forward  of  all 
pandars,  the  gondoliers — afford  ample  icope  to  their 
willies,  and  form  altogether  a  mals  of  circumilawces 
in  favour  of  vicious  indulgence,  not  to  be  found 
in  any  other  part  of  Chrifteridom  ;  to  rend  which, 
they  muft  be  more  virtuous  than  any  other  people 
— a  point  never  yet  laid  to  their  charge  by  thebeft- 
naiuied  and  mod  extenuating  of  all  thoie  who  have 
written  upon  that  iubjcdt. 


LETTER    XXV. 


JL  ROFLIGATE  though  the  people  of 
London  are,  1  will  not  allow  that  it  is  fo  vicious  a 
city  as  Venice.  That  there  aie  in  it,  and  indeed 
in   all    capitals,  individuals  who  have  reached  the 

M  2 


138  REFLECTIONS  ON'  THE 

higheft  acme  of  fhamelefs  debauchery  and  depra- 
vity, it  would  be  foolifh  to  deny  :  but  that  concu- 
binage is  practiled  in  the  lame  open  way,  fo  gene- 
rally, or  fo  lyftematicaHv  as  at  Venice,  no  one  will 
Venture  to  aflfert.  I  truft  the  day  of  depravity  and 
indelicacy  is  far  removed  from  us,  that  will  exhibit 
a  Britifh  mother  arranging  a  plan  of  accommodation 
for  her  Ion,  and  bargaining  for  a  young  virgin  to 
commit  to  his  embraces — as  they  do  in  Venice — 
not  as  wife,  but  as  concubine.  On  that  one  cul- 
toin  of  the  Venetian  ladies  I  reft  my  pofnion  ;  and 
have  no  hefitation  to  avow,  that  all  the  private 
concubinage  of  London  amounts  not  to  fuch  a  fla- 
grant  confumm*  tion  of  moral  turpitude  and  fhame- 
lcis  indelicacy  as  that  practice  to  which  I  allude. 

The  Venetian  men  are  well-featured  and  well- 
{haped — the  women,  well-fhaped,  beautifal,  and, 
it  is  faid,  witty  :  but  I  had  that  within  which  rob- 
bed every  object,  of  its  charms;  and  I  might  lay 
witri  Hamlet,  that  *;  man  delighted  not  me,  nor 
woman  either." — In  Lhort,  not  all  the  beauties  and 
novelty  of  the  place,  not  all  the  plealures  that  flare 
the  traveller  in  the  face,  and  folicit  his  enjoyment,, 
not  all  the  exquifue  looks  of  the  ladies,  could  rcufe 
my  mind  ftom  its  melancholy,  or  fix  my  attention — 
I  grew  weary  of  Venice  before  I  had  been  many 
hours  in  it,  and  determined  to  grafp  at  the  very  fit  it 
©oportunity  that  offeted  for  my  departure. 

I  had  arranged,  in  my  own  mind,  a  plan  to  pro- 
ceed to  Latichea,  a  considerable  fea-port  town  in 
Syria,  and  thence  to  Aleppo,  whence,  as  it  was  a 
great  Eaftern  mart,  1  entertained  hopes  that  I 
ihould  find  a  fpeedy,  or  at  lead  a  certain  convey- 
ance, by  a  caravan,  acrofs  the  deferts,  to  Baflorah, 
and  little  doubted  but  that  I  Ihould  find  a  veilcl  at 
fome  of  the  Venetian  ports,  either  bound,  or  be- 
longing to  a  fea-port  of  fuch  commercial  conie- 
quence,  upon  which  I  could  procure  a  paflage— 
But  in  this  I  was  difappointed  ;  for,  on  the  fullcft 


VENETIANS.  159 

inquiry  that  I  could  make,  I  found  that  there  was 
only  one  (hip  ready  to  laji;  and  no  probability  of 
any  other  for  a  considerable  time  after — I  did  every 
thing  1  could  to  avail  mvfelf  of  this  conveyance, 
but  was  difappointed,  owing  to  a  young  lady  being 
palfengcr,  who  was  daughter  to  the  owner  of  the 
veffel — and  the  old  gentleman  did  not  approve  of 
an  Englifh  officer  being  of  the  party  with  his  daugh- 
ter. 1  uled  every  argument  without  iuccels,  ur- 
ging the  reiident,  Mr  Strange,  who  had  behaved 
very  politely  to  me  during  my  fhort  residence  at 
Vemce,  to  irue.eft  himielf  about  it  :  I  likewife 
entreated  Mrs.  Strange,  an  affable,  pleaiant  wo- 
man, to  exert  her  endeavours,  and  made  her  laugh, 
by  propoiing  to  her  to  give  me  a  certificate  of  my 
behaviour,  and  to  pledge  herfelf  to  the  old  gentle- 
man that  the  happinefs  or  honour  of  his  family 
would  not  be  diftuibed  by  me  during  the  paflage. 

Heating,  however,  that  a  fhip  lay  at  Trie  fie, 
which  was  to  fail  thence  for  Alexandria  in  Egypt, 
I  determined  to  embrace  that  opportunity,  and,  in- 
ltead  of  my  former  intended  route,  go  to  Grand 
Cairo,  thence  to  Saez,  and  !b  down  the  Red  Sea, 
by  way  of  Mecca,  to  Moca,  and  thence  to  Aden, 
which  company's  v^fTeis,  or  India  country  traders 
are  always  to  be  found  going  to  one  or  other  «f 
the  Biitifh  fcttlements. 

I  accordingly  let  out  for  Triefle,  with  all  the  im- 
patience of  a  fanguine  mind,  anxious  to  change 
place,  eager  to  pufh  forward,  and  full  of  the  new 
loute  I  had  laid  down — the  charms  of  which,  par- 
ticularly of  feeing  Grand  Cairo,  the  Land  of  Egypt, 
and  the  Pyramids,  were  painted  by  my  imagination 
in  all  the  glowing  exaggerated  colours  of  lomance. 
The  captain  of  the  veilel  was  then  at  Venice,  and 
I  accompanied  him  to  Tiieile,  which  is  about  fixty 
miles  from  Venice. 

Soon  after  our  arrival  at  Triefle,  I  had  the  mor- 
tification to  find,   that  the  vellei  was  by  no   means 


140  REFLECTIONS  ON  THE 

likely  to  keep  pice  with  the  ardour  of  my  mind, 
and.  that,  awing  <o  lomc  unfoieleen  event,  her  de- 
pai  cuie  was  to  be  delayed  ;  lo,  after  a  few  of  thoie 
erLdions  which  may  be  iuppofed  on  luch  an  ecc?ft- 
on  to  elcape  a  man  of  no  very  cool  temper  hanging 
on  the  tenter-hooks  of  expedition,  I  found  it  ne- 
cefiary  to  fit  down,  and  patiently  wait  the  revolu- 
tion of  time  and  event,  which  nothing  could  either 
impede  or  accelerate. 

It  has  often  been  remarked,  and  is  held  as  a  point 
of  faith  by  Predeftinarians,  that  tome  men  are 
doomed  by  fate  to  dilappointment — and  that,  when 
they  are  lo,  no  wildom  can  obviate,  no  vigilance 
provide  againft,  nor  no  relolution  re  ft  ft,  her  de- 
crees ;  bur,  that,  in, {pile  of  all  the  efforts  of  realnn 
and  induftry,  a  leries  of  ftniiier  events  dial!  purlue 
them  through  life,  and  meet  ihem  at  every  turn 
they  attempt  to  take.  Such  has  been  my  lot  for 
the  greater!  part  of  my  life-— but  1  have  neither 
faith  enough  in  predeftination,  nor  felf-love  enough 
fo  far  to  blind  me  to  my  own  faults,  as  to  iuppole  that 
lady  fate  had  any  thing  at  all  to  do  with  it.  No, 
no  ;  it  was  often  owing  to  a  temper,  waim,  impa- 
tient, and  uncontroled.  which,  in  almoft  all  caics 
of  momentary  embarraffment,  chaied  reaion  from 
her  office,  ulurped  her  place,  and  decided  as  chance 
directed.  Let  every  man  examine  the  grounds  of 
all  his  lerious  dilappointments  in  life  with  candour, 
and  he  will  find  phyfical  cauies  to  which  to  aflign 
them,  without  retorting  to  iupernatural.  For  my 
part,  when  I  hear  a  man  fay  that  he  has  been  all  his 
life  puriued  by  ill-fortune,  I  direclly  conclude,  that 
either  he  has  been  a  blundeier,  or  thoie  he  dealt 
with,  brutes.  In  the  ordinary  operation  of  earthly 
contingencies,  miichances  will  happen  ;  but  an 
uniform  life  of  milchance  can  only  arife  from  mif- 
managerrent,  or  a  very  extraordinary  chain  of  human 
injustice.— • 


VENETIANS.  141 

Thefe  reflections  arofe  from  the  following  in- 
cident : 

I  had  procured  a  fervant  to  attend  me  on  my 
journey,  who,  from  my  Short  oblervation  of  him, 
promiied  to  contribute  very  considerably  to  my 
comfort,  my  convenience,  and,  indeed,  to  my  Se- 
curity, as  he  was  apparently  honeft,  fincere,  active, 
and  clever  in  his  duty,  and  mailer  of  Several  lan- 
guages, and  particularly  of  the  lingua  Franca,  a 
mixture  of  languages,  peculiarly  uieful  in  travel- 
ling through  the  Eaft.  Finding  that  I  was  likely 
to  be  delayed  at  Tiiefte,  and  conceiving  that  in 
this  interim  letters  from  England,  for  which  I  moffc 
ardently  longed,  might  have  arrived  at  Venice  for 
me,  I  imprudently  and  impetuoufly  Sent  him  to 
Venice,  for  the  purpofe  of  taking  them  up,  and 
carrying  ihem  to  me.  But  gueis  what  mult  have 
been  my  feelings  when  I  found,  ahnoft  immedi- 
ately after  his  departure,  that  the  vefTel  wa^>  prepar- 
ing to  fail,  and  that  1  mud  either  lole  my  paffage  or 
my  iervant  :  anxious  though  I  was  to  get  forward, 
and  grievous  though  my  former  delay  had  been  to 
me,  I  hefitated  which  to  do  ;  but  prudence,  for 
once,  prevailed  over  inclination  ;  and  I  determin- 
ed, at  all  events,  to  depart,  under  all  the  embanarT- 
ment  attending  the  w.;nt  of  a  iervant  and  lmgu.ft, 
and  all  the  poignant  feelings  of  having  been  accel- 
fary  to  the  dilappointment,  and  perhaps  the  injury 
of  a  poor  fellow,  whom  I  really  conceived  to  be  a 
peilon  ot  merit.  In  our  palT-jge  to  Alexandria  we 
touched  at  Zir  te.  an  ilbnd  on  'he  coaft  of  Greec, 
belonging  to  Venice  ;  it  was  anciently  called  Za- 
cynthus — is  about  frity  miles  in  encurnference,  and 
Contains  fifty  thoutand  inHb;  ants.  Never  before 
had  I  tafted  any  thing  equal  to  the.  delicious  flavour 
of  the  fruits  of  this  lfland— the  grapes  exq  nfue, 
and  the  melon)  and  peaches  of  prodigious  o.gnefs 
and  unequalled  flavour.  The  ifland  is  abundantly 
fruitful  in  wine,  currants,  oil,  ngs,  and  corn,  but 


142       REFLECTIONS  ON  THE,  &c. 

is  very  fubjt-£t  to  earthquakes.  Near  the  f-a-port 
which  we  entered  is  as  great  a  curioluy  in  nature  as 
is  any  where,  I  believe,  to  be  found*  Two  Spring 
wells  of  clear  frefh  water  throw  up  large  pieces  of 
leal  pitch  in  fuch  quantities,  that,  it  is  faid,  the 
people  collect,  one  year  with  another,  one  hundred 
barrels  of  it,  which  they  ufe  in  paying  their  fhip* 
ping  and  boats. 

In  the  fii  ft  ftages  of  melancholy,  confolation  is 
i ejected  by  the  mind  as  premature.  The  hearr,  in- 
tent, as  it  were,  upon  Tupping  full  of  woe,  dif* 
claims  all  advances  of  comfort,  and  feeds  on  grief 
alone.  Hence  the  truly  Wilful  in  the  human  heart 
tonddtr  premature  conization  is  an  aggravation  of 
w  ■.)?,  and  COmfaft  only  with  condolence,  well  know, 
ing  that  the  tide  of  guef  mull  take  its  courfe,  and 
that,  until  u  bf  nrft  full,  no  hopes  can  be  had  of 
itl  retiring.  The.  full  force  of  this  I  began  now 
to  feel.  The  difquietude  of  domeftic  embarraff- 
jnent---the  bitterneis  of  reparation  from  all  I  loved 
---the  folitary  ladnefs  of  my  fituation,  wandering 
through  unknown  countries— -myfelf  unknown  and 
unfriended— aggravated  at  length  by  the  lofs  of  my 
iervant,  who  was  a  fort  of  pi*  p  to  my  fpirits— - and 
my  being  call  into  a  {hip  among  a  people  whofe 
language  I  little  underitood,  without  any  foul  or 
one  circumflar.ee  to  mitigate  mv  lonow,  or  coniole 
me  under  it  ;  all  thefe,  I  f»y.  had  wound  up  my 
feelings  to  the  higheft  pitch  of  fortune — Mute 
tnifeiable  I  could  not  be  when  the  ifland  of  Zan'.e 
received  me.  and,  for  the  fu  ft  time  for  a  fad  feries 
of  days,  raiicd  me  with  the  tranlpoi  ting  louud  of 
an  Englifh  voice, 

I  have  promiied  my  Frederick,  to  give  you  1 
candid  relation,  in  hopes  that  you  will  improve  by 
it  :   but   if   1    thought,    th  the    contrary,   any 

thing  I  faid  mould  tend  to  raife  in  your  mind  a  ien- 
timent  injurious  to  your  principles,  or  reflective  on 
your  father's  conduct,  but  to  be  an  example  and  ad- 


ADVENTURE  AT  ZANTE.         143 

monitory  guide  to  your  own,  I  fho<ld  condemn  my 
and  curie  the  hour  t i .at  I  wrote — but,  I 
truft  to  your  good  fenfc  and  tiiipoii tion,  with  my 
care  to  dire£t  them  ;  and  Lull,  but  not  witnout  he- 
fitaticn,  proceed.  But,  as  I  have  already  iprun  out 
this  letter  to  luch  an  extent,  I  wdi  defer  my  fur- 
ther relation  to  another. 


LETTER.    XXVI, 


A- 


-T  the  time  I  Pet  out  upon  my  journey 
over  land  to  India,  I  was  (though  married,  and  the 
father  of  children)  very  young,  n&turally  of  a  (anguine 
condttution  :  my  attachment  to  the  fair  lex  was  no 
ways  diminifhed  by  a  military  education  ;  and  a 
warmth  of  temper,  an  ardent  fenfibility  of  mind, 
and  a  frank  unfufpicious  difpofition,  left  me  but  too 
often  to  regret  the  facility  with  which  I  yielded  to 
the  charms  of  women.  But  the  regret  for  each 
error  was  wilfully  (mothered  in  vain  determinations 
of  amendment — and  the  prcmiied  amendment  aoain 
broken  in  upon  by  fome  new  error.  Thus  it  was, 
till  riper  years  and  c  ire  um  Ranees  of  weight  ftrength- 
ened  my  reafon,  and  gave  it  in  fome  greater  degree 
that  dominion  it  mould  have  over  my  a&ions. 

Ciicumftanced  as  I  have  in  my  la  it  letter  defcribed 
myfelf  to  be,  and  con  diluted  by  natuie  and  educa- 
tion as  I  have  mentioned  above,  I  landed  in  the 
charming  ifhnd  of  Zante,  where  nature  he  felf 
ieerns  to  hive  cOnfjyired  againft  chafiity--makinor 
the  very  air  breathe  nothing  but  ttaniport  and  de- 
light. There  1  met  3  young  lady,  a  native  of  Eng- 
land— extremely  pretty,  highly  accomplifhed,  a. -id 
captivating  in  the  extreme  :  {he  had  been  at  Venice 
fur  r.er  education — was  a  comoiete  miitiels  of  mufic, 


144         ADVENTURE  AT  ZANTE. 

and  expreffed  an  intention  of  following  it  profefii- 
onally  on  her  arrival  at  England,  whither  was  going 
paffenger  in  a  veffol  bouna  there  from  Zante.  To 
have  accidentally  met  with  a  native  of  England, 
even  of  my  own  lex,  in  (uch  a  diftant  coiner  of  the 
world,  under  luch  circumstances  as  mine,  jult  elcap- 
ed  from  the  horrid  life  I  had  for  iome  time  led, 
nvuft  have  filled  me  with  joy  :  allowance,  therefore, 
nv.y  be  made  for  my  feelings  on 'meeting  this  young 
lady,  and  for  my  thinking  of  fome  expedient  to 
p-event  our  leparation.  Stie  laboured,  pnhaps,  un- 
der the  preffure  of  feelings  as  dilagreeablc  as  my 
o.vn,  and  expreffed  her  fatisfacYon  at  meeting  with 
a  countryman  io  very  unexpectedly.  Reierve  WbS 
loon  thrown  oft  on  both  fides  :  we  entered  into  a 
converlation  interefting  and  confidental,  which  in- 
crealed  my  anxiety  to  keep  her  with  me,  and  in  or- 
der to  periuade  her  to  accompany  me,  1  pointed  out 
in  the  ftrongeft  colours  poiTible,  the  great  advan- 
tages fhe  might  derive  from  her  accomplifhments  in 
I'fidia,  where  her  mufical  talents  alone,  exclufive  of 
her  various  captivating  qualities,  would  be  ah  inex- 
hauftible  mine  of  wealth.  In  fhort,  1  io  very  eagerly 
enforced  mv  piopofal  to  accompany  me,  and  time 
was  !o  very  fhort,  that  fhe  contented,  and  in  two 
hours  we  had  arranged  every  thing  for  our  depar- 
ture together---and  here  with  fhame  and  honor  I 
confeis  (nor  (ball  ever  ceafe  to  regret  u),  that  i.his 
ecclaireciffement  communicated  the  fir  ft  ray  of  lub- 
ftantial  pleafure  lo  my  heart  that  it  felt  fince  I  left 
London. 

Thus  far,  our  prejeft  failed  before  the  wind  : 
wayward  imagination  had  decked  it  out  in  the  moffc 
aluiing  drapery  that  fancy  could  fabricate,  and 
prevented  us  from  feeing  the  irr.ri  Cl  cability  pf  it, 
as  it  flood  in  the  nakednels  of  truth  j  and  when  it 
came  to  be  carried  into  execution,  a  ihoulaqd  c;i!i- 
culties  occurred,  that  the  wildnefs  of  paiTion,  and 
the  warmth  of  oui  feelings,    hau  before   Concealed 


ADVENTURE  AT  ZANTE.         145 

from  our  view.  In  the  firft  place,  it  was  neceffary 
for  her  to  obtain  the  conient  of  a  lady  to  whofe 
care  and  prote&ion  (he  was  committed  :  in  the  next 
place,  accommodations  were  to  be  procured  for  her 
in  the  fame  fnip  with  me — a  circumftance  of  moft 
arduous    difficulty  ;     belides    which,     a    variety    of 

r  impediments — infuperabie  indeed — concur- 
red to  fruftrate  our  views,  and  put  an  end  to  our 
piej.ct.  If  my  pleafure  at  meeting  her  was  great, 
my  anguifh  at  parting  with  her  was  inexpreiiib'e. 
I  had  once  more  to  face  the  woild  alone  ;  and,  on 
the  lecond  day  of  my  iojourning  at  Zante,  errd  a.  ked 
with  a  heavy  heart,  and  iet  lail  for  Alexandria, 
The  lafL  difappo'.ntments  we  undergo,  feem  alwai  s 
the  heavieft  ;  and  this  at  Zarue  1  thought  at  that 
time  to  be  the  greateft  of  my  life.  But — oh  !  flic  t- 
fighted  man  !  bubble  of  every  delufive  fhadow  !  I 
never  refk&ed,  as  I  have  fince  clone,  what  lerious 
mifchiefs,  what  endlei's  milery,  what  lofs  of  time, 
means,  and  reputation,  I  may  by  that  providential 
disappointment  have  efcaped — for  ihefe  are  the  al- 
mofi  never-failing  confeq.uences  of  f'uch  affairs.  It 
too  often  happens,  that  the  fyren  who  deludes  a 
man  into  her  inares,  is  the  very  perfon  who  infiifta 
the  deadly  wound  into  his  heart.  Avo;d,  my 
Frederick!  avoid  all  iuch,  as  you  would  avoid 
plague,  peftilence,  or  ruin — fteel  your  heart  by 
I  v  reflection  againft  their  advances.      In  all  your 

trania&ions   with    women,   like   a    good    general  }r\ 

.re,    fecure   for  your  heart  a  ieueat  ;   for  it 
be    too   lare    to    find   that    they  aie  unworthy  v 
your   heart  is  enfnared — and   when   you  find  . 
worthy    of  your  affection,   it   will   be   time  enough 
to  g:ve  a  lcoie  to  the  lenfibility'  of  your  heait. 
virtuous   woman    is    beyond    all    calculation    to    be 
valued,   when   {he   is   found  ;   but,   alas  !    in  finding 
her,   you    may    pafs  through    i'o   many    fiics   ordeal, 

run  fuch  danger,  that  it  is  aimrfl  a  doubt,  whe- 
ther a  wife   man  (if  he  cart  fetter  his  paflions)  had 

N 


146       ARRIVAL  AT  ALEXANDRIA. 

not  better  difpenfe  with  the  blefiing,   than  run  the 
hazard  of  learching  for  it. 

On  my  arrival  at  Alexandria,  I  found,  to  my 
frtfh  mortification,  that  the  plague  was  raging  all 
over  Egypt — and  as,  if  this  was  not  of  itfelf  luffi- 
cient  to  block  up  my  intended  route,  an  irruption 
of  'he  Arabs,  who  in  formidable  bodies  infeRed 
all  the  roads,  put  a  period  to  all  my  hopes  of  kemg 
Grand  Cairo,  and  viewing  the  curiofnies  of  that 
counlry9  which  all  who,  like  us.  have  the  Bible 
pjt  eariy  into  their  hands,  are  taught  to  venerate 
as  foon  as  they  are  taught  to  re<id.  Here  I  thought 
to  have  viewed  the  pyramids,  whole  antiquity,  ori- 
gin, or  intended  ufe,  have  baffled  the  learned  and 
ingenious  inquiries  of  lo  many  ages — of  beholding 
Mount  Sinai,  the  flone  of  Moles,  the  tract  of  the 
Ihaclites.  all  of  which  are  laid  to  be  clearly  pointed 
out,  and  geography  by  that  means  biought  into  the 
iupportof  Sacied  Hiiloiy.  Theie.  and  many  things, 
I  cid.  wifli  to  fee — they  are  worth  it  :  but  I  have 
had  fince  reafon  to  believe,  that  my  ill  luck  was 
not  fo  great  as  I  then  thought  it  ;  for  the  iearch  is 
dangerous,  and  made  prodigioufly  expenuve  by  the 
exactions  of  the  Mahomedan  magiftiates.  It  is  as 
well,  therefoie,  to  travel  c;ver  this  country  in  bocks, 
which  afford  us  good  information,  and  more  of  it, 
at  an  eafier  rate  than  you  could  pur  chafe  it  in  the 
country. 

Alexandria  was  built  by  Alexander  the  Great, 
foon  after  the  overthiow  of  Tyre,  ;-Lout  333  years 
bcfce  Christ,  and  is  fituateu  on  the  Mediterra- 
nean, twelve  miles  well  of  that  n.outh  of  the  Nile, 
arcien'lv  calico  L  cum.     A  very  extraordinary 

cir  cum  dance  is  related  a?  a  proof  of  the  luddenneis 
of  Alexander's  resolution  fo  buiid  it  :  Aft 
had  d^refho  the  number  of  public  ftnctures,  and 
.fixed  the  places  where  they  were  to  (land,  there 
vec  no  in  ft  rumen  ts  at  hand  proper  tor  marking 
out   tne  walls,    according  to  the   cuftom  of  thole 


ARRIVAL  AT  ALEXANDRIA.       147 

times  :  upon  this,  a  woikman  advifed  the  King  to 
ct  what  meal  was  among  the  ioiciiers,  and  1. ft 
it  in  lines  upon  the  ground,  in  order  to  mark,  out 
the  circuit  of  the  walls  :  the  advice  was  followed, 
and  the  king's  foothfayer  interpreted  it  to  be  a  pre- 
face of  the  future  proiperity  and  abundance  of  the 
cuy.  This  prophecy  was  certainly  afterwards  ve- 
rified ;  for  it  iuon  became  the  emporium  of  com- 
merce, of  arts,  and  of  (ciences. 

tiy  the  defcriplion  of  Strabo    and   other    anci- 
ents,  it  appears  that  this  city  was  built  upon  a  plan 
worthy  me  vail  mind  of  its  founder;   and   the 
nents  of  its  ornaments  afterwards  made  part  of  the 
grmu-  it  erabeliiiTim<tiis  of  Rome  and  Couftaui 

lr.  the  muleum  of  the  royal  palace,  which 
occupied  a  fouith  part  of  the  city,  the  body  of 
Aizxancer  wos  depofued  in  a  golden  coffin — 
but  the  ce'.eftable  Seleucus  CiBYOf actes  viola- 
ted the  monument,  took  away  the  golden  coflin, 
and  fub diluted  a  glafs  one  in  its  place. 

This  city  like  moll  others  of  antiquity,  has  been 
the  fecne  of  terrible  malfacres.  About  two  hun- 
ched years  after  its  foundation,  it  was  totally  depo- 
sed by  Ptolemy  Physcon — the  very  lew 
efcaped  (laughter,  flying  into  other  countries* 
trous,  iic;vever,  not  to  reign  over  empty  houfes, 
be  feduced  inhabitants  from  the  neighbouring  coun- 
tries: and  again,  for  fome  flight  offence,  deteirnin- 
ed  on  a  gcneial  maifscte  of  the  young  men  ;  and 
accordingly,  when  they  were  one  day  aflembled  in 
the  Gyoanafiuna,  or  place  of  public  exerciie,  he 
ordered  it  to  be  fet  on  fire,  Jo  that  all  perifhed, 
either  in  t he  flame*,  or  by  the  (words  of  his  mer- 
cenaries, whom  he  had  placed  at  ali  the  av  er-ues. 
Afterwards,  in  the  year  of  Christ  235,  the  Em- 
peror Caracalla,  having  been  lampooned  by  lomc 
of  the  inhabitants,  ordered  a  general  maffacre  by 
his  numerous  troops,  who  were  difperfed  over  the 
city.     The  inhuman   orders   being  given,  ail  were 


148       ARRIVAL  AT  ALEXANDRIA. 

murdered,  without  diflin&ion  of  age  or  fex  •,  fe 
that,  in  one  night's  time,  the  whole  city  floated  in 
blood,  and  every  houfe  was  filled  with  carcaies: 
the  monfler  himfelf,  retiring  to  the  temple  of  Se- 
rapis,  was  ail  the  time  imploring  the  protection  of 
the  Deity — a  proof  that  practical  devotion  and  the 
rnofl  atrocious  inhumanity  may  meet  in  the  fame 
boiom.  As  if  this  had  not  been  fufficient  ven- 
geance, he  Gripped  the  city  of  all  its  ancient  pri- 
vileges— ordered  all  {hangers  who  lived  there  to 
depart — and,  that  the  few  who  remained  might 
not  have  the  (atisfa&ion  of  feeing  one  another,  he 
cut  off  ail  communication  of  one  flreet  with  ano- 
by    walls  built    fur   the  put  pole,   and  guarded 

in  (landing  thefe  ir.avTicres,  Alexandria  again 
recovered     its    former    lulendour—and    ws 

:d  by  Ambov,  the  m famous  Saracen — an 
the  intrepid  youth  of  the  city  pet;fhed  vwth  arms 
in  their  hands.  The  mngnihcer.ee  of  the  city  may 
be  eftimated  from  the  account  wri'ten  by  Amrou 
[fo  the  Caliph  :  "  1  have  taken,"  laid  he,  <;  in* 
City  of  the  Weft  ;  it  is  of  an  immenie  extent  ;  I 
cannot  defcribe  to  you  how  m?ny  wonders  it  con- 
tains, there  are  4.C00  palaces,  4COO  baths,"  &c.  &c. 
The    great    advantages    of  the    Eaft    India   trade, 

h  was  then  carried  on  by  the  Red  Sea,  pre- 
fer ved  Alexandria  through.  fever;il  revolutions  ;  but 
having  fallen  under  the  dominion  of  the  Turks, 
and  the  pufTage  round  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope 
being  diicoveied,  a  f j tat  blow  was  given  to  its 
commerce,  arvd  it  ins  hnce  fallen  to  decay.  It  is, 
however,  even  now,  worth  the  attention  of 
ela&ical  traveller*  Entering  the  harbour,  we  paf- 
fed  by  the  lfland  of   Pharos,   were   Ptolemy 

not -nous  tower  which  was  once  the  wonder  of 
the  wotjd  ;   and,   when  riding  within  the  port,   no- 
be   more   gratifying    than    to   lee 
llicnce   that  mixture  ci  ana  mudciu  n. 


ARRIVAL  AT  ALEXANDRIA.       IJ9 

ments   that    prefented  themfelves  to   the  view,  0:1 
which  ever  fide  the  eye  could  be  turned. 

Of  myriads  of  antiquities  which  this  place  af- 
fords  for  the  infpection  of  the  curious,  I  (hall  men- 
tion only  two — One,  the  column  of  Pompey,  on 
viewing  of  which,  the  remembrance  of  that  great 
and  good  man's  mod  unmerited  and  cruel  fate  ex- 
tracted a  ftgh  from  the  bottom  of  my  heart  :  this 
pi  Liar  engages  the  attention  of  all  travellers  ;  it  is 
compo[ed  of  red  gianite  ;  the  capital  is  Corinthian, 
with  palm  leaves,  and  not  indented  ;  the  fliaft  and 
the  upper  member  of  the  bafe  are  of' one  piece, 
ninety  feet  long  ;  ?.nd  nine  in  diameter;  the  bale, 
a  iquare  of  fifteen  feet  on  each  fide  ;  the  whole 
column  is  one  hundred  and  fourteen  feet  high, 
perfe6tly  well  polilhed,  nnd  only  a  little  ihivcred 
on  the  eaftern  fide.  Nothing;  can  equal  the  mated v 
of  this  monument  :  teen  from  a  diilance  it  over- 
tops the  town,  and  ferves  as  a  lignal  for  vetTels  ; 
approaching  it  nearer,  it  produces  an  aitonifhmcni 
mix?d  with  awe:  one  would  never  he  tired  of  ad- 
miring the  beatitv  of  the  canital,  the  length  of  the 
fhaft,  nor  the  exraordinary  Simplicity  of  the  pe- 
deftal.  Some  years  ago.  a  party  of  Englifh  feamen 
contrived,  by  flying  a  kite,  to  draw  a  line  over  the 
pillar,  and  by  mat  means  made  a  kind  of  a  fhroud, 
by  which  they  got  up,  and  on  the  very  top  of  it 
drank  a  bowl  of  punch,  to  the  utter  aftonifhment 
of  a  multitude  who  came  to  fee  them;  they  broke 
off  one  of  the  volutes  of  the  column,  but  amply 
cornpenla'.ed  for  this  m  Tchief  by  a  difcovery  they 
made,  as,  wirhout  their  evidence,  the  world  weald 
nut  haVe  known,  at  this  hour,  that  there  wai  ori- 
ginally a  lt..ue  on  this  Column,  one  foot  and  ancle 
or  which,  '.A  ehormou!  fize,  -.re  flill  remaintnjr. — 
Tf'.e   other  is   the    0  i    Cleopatra,  of  irri- 

n;c  fize,   and  of  one    .  gar- 

ble.     Mere    I    ob  too,    a    th;ck    wall,    w 

towers  moulclerir.-  unc  er  extreme  age,   which  con- 

K    2 


l  $q  ARRIVAL  AT  CYPRUS. 

aired,  in  its  face,  fragments  of  architecture  of  the 
rr.oit  exquinte  woikmanfhip,  fuch  as  broken  co- 
lumns, friezes.  &.C.  ;  thole  were  the  antique  ruins 
of  iome  fallen  pieces  of  antiquity,  at  the  time  that 
tr  is  ant:que  wall  was  built  :  what  then  mud  be  the 
length  ({  time  (ince  they  had  firft  undergone  the 
hands  of  the  woskman?  Thefe  citcumftar.ces  tend, 
to  demonftrate,  that,  far  back  beyond  the  reach  of 
our  calculation,  the  arts  flourifhed  :  and  when  one 
thinks  of  the  miraculous  maffes  of  work  done  ia 
foimer  ages — the  magnitude  of  the  pieces  of  which 
thoi'e  wo;ks  were  corrrpcied,  fuch  as  whole  columns 
and  obelifks  of  a  fingle  bleck  of  marble — the  Co- 
h  iT-is  of  Rhodes,  mace  of  brafs,  one  foot  of  which 
was  p!?ccd  on  one  fine  of  the  harbour,  and  another 
on  the  other  fide,  lb  that  (hips  paffed  between  its 
legs — we  cannot  help  yielding  up  the  palm  to  the 
ancient?  for  ilupendous  magnificence,  however  wg 
may  furpafs  them  for  the  uieful,  the  elegant,  and 
good. 

At    Alexandria   I    remained    about    twelve-  days, 

till,   wearied    of  the    confined    (late    I  lived    in    on 

account   of  she    plague.    1    reiolved  to  devife  iome 

means,   if  poflible,  to  get  away,  and  at  length  hired 

to   carry   rr.c    to  the  iftand  of   Cyprus,  fiorn 

.nee  I  concluded,   that  I  fhould    find   no-.ort  of 

in  procuring  a  conveyance  to   Latichea, 

;    (o    proceed  by  irt-y  ft  ft  intended  route.      1  ac- 
co:  arrived  at  Cyprus  in  perfect  wnre, 

to  ir.y  great  for  row  and  aitonifhmen?,    I    found   Uiat 
an  eai  fever,  equal  in  its  efre£ts  to  3  plaj 

e vailed  :  however,  there  was  no  alternative  ;  I 
mud  run  the  riique,.  and  I  di  far  fled  the  boat  that 
carried  me  from  Alexandria. 

Although  the  etymologies  of  the  names  of  places 
are   of  very   little  importance,  at  d  moft  frequently 
uncertain,    I    think   it   picbable  that  the  ieanied  are 
r.   who  auert  the  name  of  this  is  derived  fi 

efs — \--iih   v  nc! 


ARRIVAL  AT  CYPRUS.  151 

abounds.  It  had,  in  ancient  times,  a  number  of 
other  names — one  cf  which  was  Pt;phia,  whence 
Venus,  who  was  worfhipped  in  ir,  was  called  the 
Paphian  Goddefs.  It  lies  thirty  miles  weft  of  Sy- 
ria, whither  I  was  bound,  ftretchinp  from  the 
iouth-weft  to  the  norlh-eaft,  one  hundicd  and  fifiy 
miles  in  length,  and  feventy  in  breadth  in  the 
wide  ft  part  of  it. 

This  ifland  holds  a  very  high  rank  in  cb-ffic  lore 
—It  gave  birth  to  lome  great  philosophers  and  con- 
iiderable  poets — The  Apoftle  Barnabas  was  a  na- 
tive of  it,  and,  aflitted  by  St.  Paul,  fi.'ft  intro- 
duced Chriftianity  among  them.  FVmngufta,  a  town 
on  the  eaftern  pait  of  the  ifland,  op  polite  to  the 
fhore  of  Syria,  is  the  ancient  Salamis,  built  by 
Teucer.  the  fon  of  Telamon,  and  bicther  of 
A  j  ax. 

Symiflo,  on  the  fonth-eaft,  the  bed  Dort  in  Cy- 
prus, is  the  Amathus  mentioned  by  Virgil,  in 
his  jEneid,  and  by  Ovid  in  his  Metamoi  pholes. 
And  BafTo,  on  the  Weftern  coaft,  is  ;he  Paphos  of 
antiquity,   famous  for  the  Temple  of  Venus. 

As  the  branches  of  an  empire  moft  remote  from 
the  gteat  leat  of  government  arc  always  more  def- 
potically  governed  than  thole  near  the  iouice  of 
redreis,  Cyprus  has  been  continuallv  ruled  with  a 
rod  of  iron  fmce  it  came  into  the  bands  of  the 
Turks.  While  it  was  under  the  dominion  of 
Chriftians,  it  was  well  peopled,  having  no  lefs  than 
eight  hundred  or  a  thouiand  villages  in  it,  betides 
feveral  handlome  cities  ;  but  the  Turks  have  ipread 
ruin  and  defoiation  over  the  country,  and  it  is  new 
fo  thinly  inhabited  that  more  than  half  the  lands 
lie>  uncultivated. 

The  air   of  this  ifnnd   is  now  for  the  moft  pmt 

unvvh^lciomc,   owing  to  the  damps  ariiing  from  the 

noany    ftnr>  and    marines   with    whicii   the   country 

jnds — while,    there    being    but    few    fpviijgs    or 

livers  in  tue  nlano.  the  want  of  a  plentiful  fall  of 


152  ARRIVAL  AT  CYPRUS. 

rain,  at  proper  periods,  diftieiles  the  inhabitants 
very  much  in  another  way  ;  and  by  means  of  the 
uncultivated  ftate  of  the  country,  they  are  greatly 
infefted  with  poiionous  reptiles  of  various  kinds. 

The  mod  remarkable  mountain  in  Cyprus  is  cal- 
led Olympus — a  name  common  to  feveral  other 
mountains  in  Greece,  particularly  to  that  in  Theffa- 
ly,  fo  famous  in  the  poetry  of  the  ancients.  That 
in  Cyprus  is  about  fifty  miles  in  ciicumference  : 
great  part  of  it  is  covered  with  woods  ;  and  at  the 
foot  of  it  are  fine  vineyards,  which  produce  admi- 
rable wine,  not  only  in  a  lutiiciency  for  their  own 
confumption,  but  lome  alio  for  exportation.  And 
although  the  greater  part  of  the  ifland  lies  unculti- 
vated, as  I  have  before  obferved,  it  produces  a  fuf- 
ficient  quantity  of  corn,  unlefs  in  leaions  when 
their  harveft  fails,  in  which  c^fe  the  people  are  eafi- 
!y  fupplied  riom  the  continent.  They  have,  bc- 
{ides,  cattle  enough  for  their  own  confumption. 
Many  parts  of  the  count iy abound  in  wildfowl,  and 
feveral  forts  of  game,  and  they  have  plenty  of  fifh 
upon  the  iea  co  fls. 

The  trade  of  Cyprus  is  not  inconfiderable,  and 
carried  on  chiefly  by  Jews  and  Armenian*  :  the 
commodities  in  which  they  deal  ate  wine,  oil,  cot- 
ton, wool,  fait,  filkj  and  turpentine — befides,  it 
produces  feveral  forts  of  earth,  fit  fci  the  ule  of 
painters,   particularly  red,   b  :>ck,  and  yellow. 

Its  mot!  wonderful  production,  however,  is  the 
famous  (lone  (Afbeuos)  inexiinguifhable,  or  (Ami- 
antos)  impollutus,  fo  ciicd  from- its  extraordinary 
property  of  N -.filth;/.  fVre.  It  is  related  that  tr  an- 
cients made  out  of  this  Hone  a  kino  of  in  read  that 
would. remain  ui  led  in  the  moft    interne   fire. 

It  is  even  faid,   thai    fome   ex-periwer   s    b 
;.        •  in  modi    .  - 

ed  that   the  thing  rs  t;or.. 

dir.arv  o  ie  ftic  ns  '  ly 

coau'uuiu.  1  always  1  .  u;i>g 


ARRIVAL  AT  CYPRUS.  1 5 


5 


flronger   than  mere    afiertion  is  offered  to  convince 
me. 

There  is  one  dreadful  mischief  to  wh:ch  this  ifland 
is  fuhjeft.  In  the  hot  feafon,  locufts  come  from 
the  Continent,  in  fwarms  (o  vaft  and  io  thick  as  to 
darken  the  fky  like  clouds.  Tho.re  would  certainly 
devour  all  the  fruits  of  the  earth,  if  they  were  not 
driven  to  fea  by  a  north  wind  that  ufually  blows  at 
the  time  of  their  coming.  When  that  wind  hap- 
pens to  fad,  which  fortunately  is  feldom,  the  conie- 
quence  is  a  total  demolition  of  the  fruits  of  the 
country. 

The  whole  ifland,  as  well  as  particukr  towns, 
was  entirely  coniecrated  to  the  goddefs  Venus, 
w Ho  thence  was  called  Venus  Cypria,  or  Dea 
Cypria,  and  is  represented  by  the  poets  as  taking 
a  1  eculiar  plea  Cure  in  viliiing  it  ;  and  this  unquefti- 
onably  arofe  from  the  loofe  habits  and  lafcivioul 
temperament  of  the  women  thete,  who  certainly  are, 
at  this  time,   not  remarkable  for  chaility, 

I  mull  confefs,  however,  that  I  felt  great  plea- 
fure  in  entering  Cvprui  ;  it  was,  as  I  have  already 
flared,  claffie  ground,  and  dedicated  to  the  Q  »een 
of  Love.  But  a  traveller  who  viiit-s  it  with  hopes 
of  amuiement.  will  be  much  difappoimed  •,  for  in 
no  one  particular  did  k  (ecm  10  me  to  refemble  that 
Cyprus  famed  in  the  Heathen  Story  and  Mytholo- 
gy. Of  the  Cyprian  queen's  favours  the  ladies 
teemed  to  boafl  no  one  maik.  hive  the  mod  naufeou?, 
dilgufting  lewdnels  ;  ana  the  natural  fertility  of  the 
foil  is  half  loft,  beneath  the  opprefiive  yoke  of  the 
fervants  of  the  Turkiih  government.  Thus,  in  the 
extraordinary  revolutions  that  human  affairs  are  in- 
ccffantly  undergoing,  that  iflmd  which  for  its  fupe- 
rior  beauties  was  luppoied  to  be  the  re  fide  nee  of 
love,  which  gave  birth  to.  the  philosophers  Zeno, 
Appo  lion  lis,  and  Xe  nop  11  on',  is  now  a  raife* 
vated  Ipot,  peopled  with  a  mixture 
of  Wietched  iuiks,  Jews,   Giecks,  arid   Chiiftians 


154        ARRIVAL  AT  LATICHEA. 

— —groining  under  the  tyranny  of  a  barbarous  defpo- 
tic  abufe  of  delegated  power— infcftcd  with  locufts 
which  devour  the  fruits  of  the  earth— -and  dilgiaced 
by  a  race  of  ignominious  women,  who  cfteem  it  to 
be  an  a£l  of  religion  to  proftuutc  themfeives  to  all 
fl  rangers. 

Our  Richard  the  Fir  ft  mane  a  conquefr.  of  t,hii 
ifiand  on  his  way  to  the  Holy  Land,  and  conferred 
the  royalty  of  it  on  Guy  Lusicnan,  king  of  • 
rufaiem.  The  Venetians  poffv.ifed  the  mi  elves  of 
it  in  the  year  1480 — but,  in  the  iixtcenth  centuiy, 
the  Turks  difpolTenea  them,  and  have  ever  iince 
kept  it  under  the  yoke--- 1  fiiould  have  remained 
that  their  wine  is  excellent. 

mi  nut  ng  my  route,  I,  hired  anmbei  boat,  after 
only  forty-eight  hours  (lay  at  Cyprus,  and  proceed- 
ed for  Latichea,  which,  as  1  have  lomewhere  be- 
fore mentioned,  is  a  confiderable  lea-port  town  of 
Syria,  built  on  a  promontory  of  land,  which,  run- 
ring  into  the  iea,  occafions  its  being  continually 
refrefhed  with  breezes.  Fortune,  who  had  hither- 
to been  not  veiy  liberal  in  her  difpeniations,  now 
favoured  me  ;  for,  juit  as  1  arrived  at  Latichea,  a 
C3ravan  was  preparing.  The  coniul  of  the  Turkifh 
Company  at  Cyprus  leceived  me  with  gieat  polite- 
nefs  and  hofpitalit) — gave  me  a  letter  to  the  refident 
at  Latichea  ;  and  by  his  inftiuction  and  afiiftance, 
after  a  very  fhoit  flay,  I  let  out  on  my  way  to  Alep- 
po with  the  cat  a  van. 

As  I  fhall  hereafter  have  crcafion  more  particular- 
ly to  deferibe  the  nature  or  thole  caravans,  I  (hail, 
for  the  preient,  tell  you,  that  this  was  compoied  of 
no  other  beafts  of  burden  than  mules  and  aifes,  of 
which  there  wete  not  ids  than  three  or  four  hundred 
in  number. 

Mounted  on  a  mule,  1  travelled  along,  well 
plea  fed  with  the  fertile  appearance  of  the  country, 
and  delighted  with  the  ieienity  of  the  air — We 
were,  as  well  a*  I  c..n  now  recollect,  near  ten  ti.iyt 
on  the  toad  ;  during  which  time  we  travelled  only 


ARRIVAL  AT  ALEPPO.  155 

injhe  morning  early,  and  in  the  heat  of  the  day 
repoled  under  the  fhade  cf  trees. 

I  was  informed,  that  if,  in  (lead  of  going  to  Lati- 
chea,  I  hid  gone  to  Scandaroon  (otherwile  Alexan- 
dria), I  fhould,  in  the  road  from  thence  to  Aleppo, 
have  travelled  through  a  country,  in  which  the  mo  ft 
lingular  and  extravagant  cu  Proms  prevail  that  exift 
in  any  country  emcigcd  from  barbarifm — Several  of 
thofe  I  heard  ;  but  one  in  particular  was,  that  the 
men  proftituted  their  wives  and  daughters  to  ail 
comers — and  that  this  originated  fiom  a  principle  of 
religion,  though  there  was  everv  realdn  to  believe, 
tha1,  like  many  of  their  religious  institutions,  it  was 
mad„  atlaft  fubfervient  to  the  gratification  of  avarice. 

On  rrv  way  to  Aleppo,  I  was  met  by  a  Mr.  — t 
an  Englilh  g*  nt'.eman,  who  had  heard  of  my  coming, 
and  who,  in  the  mod  kind  and  hofpitable  manner, 
infifted  upon  my  living  at  his  houle  inftead  of  the 
Brinfh  conful's,  wheie  I  ihould  otherwiie  have  le- 
iideu  during  my  Hay  there;  and  his  manner  of 
afkh:g  me  was  io  engaging,  interefting,  and  impref- 
iive,   that  I  found  it  impoifible  to  refufe   him. 

As  the  great  pub^c  caravan  had  departed  from 
Aleppo  before  my  arrival,  and  the  expence  of 
forming  a  private  one  on  my" account  was  too  great, 
as  I  was  travelling  on  my  own  account,  and  had  no 
dif patches  to  author! fe  or  enforce  my  departure,  or 
bear  me  out  in  the  expence  ;  I  was  conftrained  to 
remain  at  Aleppo  till  tome  eiig;ble  mode  of  tiavel- 
1  in g  occurred,  or  another  public  caravan  was  foimed.. 
This  delay  gave  me  an  opportunity  of  reeing  and 
informing  myfelf  of  the  ciry  and  lurrounding  coun- 
try ;  the  reiua  of  which,  1  fhall,  in  as  fhort  a  man- 
,ner  as  pofiible,  relate  to  you  in  a  future  letter.  It 
alfogave  occafion  to  one  of  thofe  unhappy  incidents 
whrcij  1  have  often  had  occafion  to  lament,  not  from 
any  eonfeioufnefs  of  diic£l  criminality,  but  for  the 
fcope  u  gave  to  mifreprefentation,  and  the  injury 
which  that  mifreprefentation  did  me  in  the  opinion 
of  iome  of  izry  inends.         (End  of  Fart  Firji.J 


JOURNEY  TO  INDIA,  &c. 

FART     II. 


LETTE  R    XXVII. 


My    dear    Frederick, 


UO  long  as  the  route  of  mv  journev  lay 
through  European  regions,  little  piefented  itlelf  re- 
fpefting  human  nature  of  luch  very  g:eif  novelty  as 
to  excite  admiration  or  awaken  curiofity.  In  all  the 
various  nations  through  which  we  have  patted,  a 
certain  parity  of  ientiment,  arifing  from  the  ore 
great  fubflratum.  Chnftianity,  gave  the  fame  general 
colouring  to  all  the  i'cenes,  i  -■.  they  might  differ 

fiorn  each  oiherin  their  various  fhadings.   Whatever 
di'flifnilitude  the  influence  of  accident,  climate,  'or 
local  circumfUnce,  mav,  in  the  revolutions  of  agc^s, 
have  introduced  into  their  manners,  cu Horns,  rr.unU 
cipal  laws,  and  exterior  forms  of  w  or  (hip — the  gvca£ 
code  of  religion  and  moral  Ientiment  remains  neaily, 
the  fame  with  all  :   and  right  and  wrong,    good  and^ 
evil,   being  defined  by  the  (Vrne  piinciples  of  reafon,  \ 
and  afcertained  by  the  fame  boundaries,     bring    the-l 
rule  of  concuft  of  each  to  lo  c!ol"  an  appioxmation 
wi'h  that  of  the  others,   thai,   when  compared  vith, 
thoie    we  are  now  to  attend  to,   they    ma)  be 

coufidered  as  one  and  the  lame  people. 


DESCRIPTION  OF  ALEPPO.         I  $J 

In  the  empire  now  before  us,  were  we  to  leave 
our  judgment  to  the  guidance  of  genera!  opinion  of 
Chnftian  nations,  we  fhould  have,  on  the  contiaiy, 
to  contemplate  man  undsr  a  variety  of  foims  and 
modifications,  fo  entirely  different  from  thole  to 
which  habit  has  familiariled  our  minds,  as  ar  fiift  to 
imprels  us  with  an  idea  of  a  total  disruption  from 
cur  nature,  and  induce  us,  as  it  rus  already  the  ge- 
nerality of  our  people,  to  divorce  'hem  ftom  a  par- 
ticipation of  all  thoie  fympathetic  feelings  which 
ierve  to  enforce  the  difcharge  of  mutual  ^ood  offices 
among  men.  Deducing  all  their  principles,  lot 
only  of  moral  conduct,  but  municipal  governmenr, 
from  a  religion  radically  different  fiom,  and  ?ff-nti- 
ally  adverle  to,  our  ;  deluded  h\  that  fyftem  into  a 
variety. of  opinions  whic  i  liberality  ntelf  mud  think 
abfurd  ;  unaided  by  that  enlightened  philolbphy 
when  teaming,  and  learned  mon,  act'ng  under  the 
influence  of  comparative  freedom,  and  a  flirted  by 
the  art  of  printing,  have  diffined  through  the  mafs 
of  Europeans  ;  and  living  uncle r  a  climate  the  molt 
unfavourable  to  intellect ,ial  or  bodily  exertion,  they 
exhibit  a  fpefticle  wh  i  kofophic  arid  liberal 

mind  b  5W   with    d       (probation,   regret,  and 

pity — the  illiberal  fieice  Cnn&iao  with  unequal) fl- 
ed deteftation  and  diiguft  :  While,  on  their  parr, 
bigoted  to  their  own  principles  ai  nions,   they 

look  on  us  with  abhorrence,  and  incu  ^ge  as  conici- 
^enaous  a  contempt  of,  and  antipathy  to  Chi  ifti.ins, 
which  I  apprehend  no  lapfe  of  un  r.  v.  itLoui  a 
great  change  of  circumfUnce.  jf*ill  he  able  to  eradi- 
cate. Should  MahemedaoiiSi  and  CKriflianity  ever 
happen  to  merge  .*,  Deiim  (hut  noi  otherwise),  the 
inhabitants  of -Svi  a  and  Jiuiope  v\  II  c.g<ee  tc  con- 
fider  each  oilier  even  as  fellow-creatures^  In 
SjMJn  and  Portugal,   Jew,  Tuik.   ar  ■■•zd  Iio- 

teftant,  are  without  diPnfticn  called  hogs.  In 
Turkey,  Jews  and  Chi'.iliaps  are  diicritnigtataiy 
called  dogs  ;    each  thinking  the  ether  completely 

O 


158       DESCRIPTION  OF  ALEPPO. 

excluded  from  the  pale  of  humanity,  and  well  wor* 
thy  the  dagger  of  any  true  believer  who  would 
have  the  piety  to  a  poly  it. 

You  will  allow,  my  dear  Frederick,  that  itmuft 
have  been  rather  an  important  contemplat  onio  your 
father,  to  have  perhaps  two  thoufands  nvlcsto  travel 
through  the  irnmenfe  and  almoft  tracklefs  wilds  of  a 
country  inhabited  by  fuch  people,  without  the  ccn- 
folation  of  any  others  to  accompany  him  in  his  jour- 
ney ;  for,  unlefs  a  public  diipaich  was  to  overtake 
me,  there  was  little  probability  of  my  having  a  An- 
gle European  partner  of  my  fatigue  and  perils. 

However,  as  the  period  \v»  not  yet  arrived  at 
which  I  was  to  go  forward,  or  even  determine  my 
mode  of  travelling,  I  endeavoured  to  feothc  my  mind 
as  much  as  I  could  into  content,  and  to  take  advan- 
tage of  my  ftay  at  Aleppo,  to  acquire  all  the  know- 
ledge pofiible  of  the  place,  that  is  to  lay,  of  that 
cry  in  particular,  and  of  the  Turkifh  government 
and  manners  in  geneta!. 

A  diflant  view  of  Aleppo  fills  the  mind  with 
expeftations  of  great  fplendour  and  magnificence. 
The  mo  que?,  the  towers,  the  large  ranges  of 
hcufes  with  flat  roofs,  rifing  above  each  other,  ac- 
cording to  the  doping  hills  on  which  they  (land, 
the  whole  variegated  with  beautiful  rows  of  trees, 
form  altogether  a  fcene  magnificent,  gay,  and  de- 
lightful :  but,  on  entering  the  town,  all  thofe  ex- 
pected beauties  vanifh,  and  leave  nothing  in  the 
ilieets  to  meet  the  eye,  but  a  diimal  fuccetifion  of 
high  (tone  walls,  gloomy  as  the  recedes  of  a  con- 
vent or  ftate  prifon,  and  unenlivened  by  windows, 
errbellifhed,  as  with  us,  by  the  human  face  divine. 
The  ftreets  themfelves,  not  wider  than  lome  of  the 
ireaneft.  alleys  in?  London,  overcaft  by  the  height 
of  the  prifon-houfes  on  either  fide,  are  rendered 
ftill  more  fotmidably  gloomy  by  the  folitude  and 
filence  that  pervade  them  ;  while  here  and  there 
a  lattice  toward*  the  top,  barely  viUbie,    flrikcs  the 


DESCRIPTION  OF  ALEPPO.        159 

"  foul  with  the  gloomy    idea    of  thraldom,   coercion, 
and  imprilonment. 

This  delegable  mode  of  building,  which  ow^s 
its  origin  to  jealouly,  and  the  Icandalous  re&ratnts 
every  man  is  empowered  by  the  laws  and  religion 
of  the  place  to  impole  upon  the  women  confi^ujd 
eitner  by  iale  or  birth  to  his  tyranny,  ex;e:K;s  not 
to  the  in  fide  of  the  houfes,  many  of  which  are 
magnificent  and  hand  fame,  and  ail  admirably  failed 
to  thi  exigencies  of  the  climate,  and  the  domed. c 
Curlomfi  and  manner  of  living  of  the  inhabitants. 

The  citv  is  adorned,  it  is  iruc,  here  and  there, 
with  rnofq  ics  and  appendant  towers,  called  Mina- 
rets, from  which  cryers  call  the  faithful  to  pray  ens  ; 
and  in  fotne  of  the  ftreets  there  are  arches  built  at 
certain  distances  from  each  other,  loas  to  carry  the 
eye  dire&ly  through  them,  and  form  a  vifta  of  con- 
fiderable  grandeur  :  but  all  thefe  are  far  from  lufii- 
cent  to  counteibalance  the  general  alpeel  of  gloo- 
minefs  and  lolitude  which  reigns  over  the  whole, 
and  renders  it  fo  peculiarly  di. gliding,  particularly 
at  Hrft  light,  to  an  £nglilhman  who  ha?  enjoyed 
the  gaiety  and  contemplated  the  freedom  of  a  city 
in  Great  B;!:ain. 

The  mofqi.ies  (Mahomedan  templet)  are  extreme- 
ly numerous  in  this  city  ;  indeed  airaod  as  much 
fo  as  churches  and  convents  in  the  Popifn  countries 
of  Chndendom.  There  is  nothing  in  their  exter- 
nal appearance  to  attract  the  notice  of  the  traveller, 
or  indulge  the  eye  of  the  architect  :  they  are  almoft 
all  of  one  form — an  oblong  quadrangle  :  and  as  to 
the  in  fide,  I  never  had  an  opportunity  of  feeing 
one  ;  none  but  Muffulmen  being  permitted  to  enter 
them,  at  lead  at  Aleppo, 

The  next  buildings  of  a  public  '  kind  to  the 
moiqies  that  deferve  to  be  particularly  mentioned, 
are  tne  caravanleras — buildings  which,  whether  we 
confider  the  fpirit  of  beneficence  and  charity  that 
fit  it   lug^eited   them,   their  national  importance,  or 


160        DESCRIPTION  OF  ALEPPO. 

their  extenfive  utility,  may  rank,  though  not  in 
fplendour  of  appearance,  at  lead  in  true  value, 
with  any  to  be  found  in  the  world. 

Caravanieras  were  originally  intended  for,  and 
are  now  pretty  generally  applied  to,  the  accommo- 
dation of  Grangers  and  travellers,  though,  like  evety 
other  good  inftitulton,  iometirnes  peiverted  to  the 
purpoies  of  private  emolument  or  public  job:  they 
are  built  at  proper  difiar.ees  through  the  roads  of 
the  Turkifb  dominions,  and  afford  the  indigent  r 
weary  traveller  an  aiylum  from  the  inclemency  of 
the  weather;  ^re  in  general  veiy  large,  arid  built 
of  the  mo:  and  aurabie  materials;   have  com- 

moniy  one  ftory  above  the  ground  floor,  th.e  lower 
or  which  is  arched,  and  ferves  for  warehoules  to 
ftow  goods,  for  lodgings  and  for  {tables,  while  the 
upper  is  uled  merely  fur  loggings  ;  besides  wh  chr 
they  are  always  accommodated  witn  a  fountain,  and 
have  cooks  fhops  and  other  conveniences  to  {du- 
ply the  wants  of  the  budgets.  In  Aleppo  tne 
(iaravanferas  are  .airooft  exclusively  occupied  by 
merchants,  to  whom  they  are,  hke  other  houies, 
cd. 

The  fuburba  of  Aleppo,  2nd  th;>  Surrounding 
country,  are  very  handlome,  plealant,  and,  to  a 
peiion  coming  out  of  the  gloomy  city,  in  fome  re- 
jp.  tls  ir.ieren.ing.  Some  loffed  about  into  hill  and 
vailcy  lie  under  the  hands  of  the  hufbandman;. 
others  are  covered  with  handfome  villas  ;  and  others 
again  laid  out  in  gardens,  whiiher  the  people  of 
Aleppo  occasionally  reiort  for  amuleraenu 

i  he  roofs  ot  ail  the  houies  aie  fbt,  and  formed 
of  a  com|iouiion  which  refilts  the  weather  efTectu- 
ally.  On  thole  mod  of  the  people  fleep  in  the 
very  hot  weather  :  they  are  ieparatea  from  each 
other  by  walls;  but  the  Franks,  who  live  contigu- 
ous to  u;:e  another,  and  who,  itom  their  uiiagieea- 
ble  c i re ura fiances  with  ieg<ud  to  the  Turks.- are 
Under    tne   uecefiity    of  keeping   up  a  hieudly  and 


DESCRIPTION  OF  ALEPPO.         161 

harmonious  intercourfe  together,  have  coors  of 
communication,  which  are  attended  with  theie  for- 
tunate and  pleafing  advantages,  that  they  can  make 
a  large  circuit  without  defcending  into  the  ilreets, 
and  can  vifit  each  other  during  the  plague,  with- 
out running  the  rifk  of  catching  the  infection  by 
going  among  the  natives  below. 

There  is  a  caftle  in  the  city  which  I  had  nearly 
forgotten  to  mention — The  native*  conceive  it  to 
be  a  place  of  great  ftrength.  It  could  not,  how^ 
ever,  withftand  the  fhock  of  a  few  pieces  of  ord- 
nance for  a  day.  It  is  eileemed  a  favour  to  be  per- 
mitted to  fee  it  ;  and  there  is  nothing  to  rccom- 
penie  one  for  the  trouble  of  obtaining  permJTion, 
unlefs  it  be  the  prolpe£t  of  the  iuiroundin^  coun- 
try, which  from  the  battlements  is  exteniive  and 
beautiful. 

Near  this  caftic  ftands  the  feraglio,  a  large  old 
building,  where  the  bafhaw  of  Aleppo  lelides  :  the 
whole  of  it  feemr.d  to  me  to  be  kept  in  very  bad 
repair,  confi  Jering  the  importance  of  lite  place.  It 
is  (urrounded  by  a  (Irong  wail  of  g:eat  height :  be- 
fides  which,  its  contiguity  to  the  cattle  is  very  con- 
venient ;  as,  in  cafe  of  popular  tumults,  or  inteftine 
commotions,  the  bafhaw  finds  an  aiylum  in  the  latter, 
which  commands  and  overawes  the  city,  and  is  ne- 
ver without  a  numerous  garrtlon  under  the  command 
of  an  A<£a. 

Such  is  the  fummary  account  I  have  been  able  to 
colledi  of  Aleppo,  the  capital  of  Syria  ;  which, 
mean  though  it  is  when  compared  with  the  capitals 
of  European  count,  ies,  is  certainly  the  tnird  city 
fo;  ipieudour,  magnificence,  and  importance,  in  the 
vaft  extent  of  the  Ouom&n  Empire  —  Condaotinople 
^d  Giand  Cairo  only  excelling  it  in  thole  poinis, 
and  no  other  bearing  any  lort  of  competition,  with 
it. 

O   s 


162         TURKISH  CONSTITUTION 


LETTER    XXVIII. 


H, 


.OWEVER  faftion  may  agitate  or  abuf« 
iiritate  the  minds  of  men  again  ft  the  executive  branch 
of  their  government,  the  people  of  everv  nation 
under  Heaven  are  difpofed  to  think  their  own  con- 
ftitutional  fyftem  the  Left;  and  the  artful  intertextuie 
of  religion  with  governments  coufiitns  them  in  that 
opinion,  and  often  cor.figns  the  underftanding  to 
unalterable,  error  and  illiberal  prejudice.  It  would 
be  wonderful,  then,  if  the  Turkifh  confcitution, 
founded  on  the  Koran,  was  not  looked  upon  with 
abhorence  by  the  bulk  of  the  Chriflian  world  ;  and 
more  wonderful  lull,  if  the  outrageous  zealots  of  the 
Chnltian  church,  who  for  fojmany  centuries  engroff- 
ed  all  the  learning  of  Europe  lo  themfelves,  fhould 
net  have  handed  clown  with  exaggerated  mifrepre- 
fentation  every  circumftance  belonging  to  the  great 
enemies  of  their  faith.  But  that,  at  this  clay  of  in- 
tellectual illumination,  mankind  fhould  be  envelo- 
ped in  fuoh  error  and  dark ne Is.  with  regard  to  the 
government  of  fo  large  a  portion  of  the  globe  as 
Turkey,  is  extraordinary  ;  and  only  to  be  accounted 
for  by  a  reference,  in  the  firft  piece,  to  thole  reli- 
gious prejudices  which  we  luck  in  from  our  nurfe, 
and  which  habit,  incetfant  document,  and  eveiy  part 
of  our  education,  tend  to  confirm  in  our  muid  ; 
and  in  the  next,  to  that  indifpohtion  the  human 
mind  feels  to  part  with  its  old  prejudices,  and  the 
general  indolence  and  incapacity  ot  men  to  acquire 
knowledge  by  the  arduous  and  iatiguing  paihs 
of  ftudy. 

The    Turkifh  government  is  grofsly  mifrepr<f  Ten- 
ted.    Were  our  opinions  to  be  directed  by  the  gen- 


AND  GOVERNMENT.  1 6 

cral  belief  of  Europeans,  we  fhould  fuppofe  that 
the  life  and  property  of  every  being  in  that  vail  em- 
pire were  irremediably  at  the  mercy  of  the  Grand 
Seignior — and  that,  without  laws  to  proteft,  or 
any  intermediate  power  whatever  to  fhield  them, 
they  were  entirely  fubjtft  to  the  capricious  will  of 
an  inexorable  tyrant,  who,  ftimulaled  by  cruelty, 
fharpened  by  avarice,  and  unreflrained  by  any  law 
human  or  divine,  did  everv  thing  to  oppreis  his 
fubjefts,  and  carry  defln.ftion  among  mankind. 
1  firmly  believe,  that,  from  the  combination  of  ideas 
anting  from  thole  prejudices,  there  are  few  Cuniti- 
ans  who  think  or  hear  of  the  grand  Turk,  that  do 
not,  by  an  involuntary  aft  of  the  mind,  iuftanily 
think  of  blood  and  murder,  fit-angling  with  bow- 
flrings,   and  dicing  off  heads  with  cimeiers. 

As  there  is  no  part  of  your  education  more  near 
my  heart  than  the  eradicating  illiberal  prejudices 
from  your  mind,  and  fortifying  you  againlt  ihcir 
aiuults  ;  1  find  it  impoiiible  to  refrain  from  giving 
you  my  opinion  of  the  Turkiih  government,  which 
I  have  been  at  ibme  pains  to  colleft,  as  well  from 
oral  information  as  from  the  belt  authors  ;  and 
which,  though  very  far  from  what  a  generous  arid 
universally  philanthropic  difpofition  would  wifh 
them  to  have,  is  very  different  from  that  which  is 
generally  attributed  to  them,  and  ui.queilionably 
far  more  limited  in  its  powers  than  the  government* 
of  leveral  Chnitian  countries  I  could  mention* 

Theconllitutiou  of  that  country  is  laid  down  cx« 
prelsly  in  the  Koran.  The  emperor  of  Turkey 
(commonly  called  the  Grand  Seignior)  is  a  deice. id- 
ant  of  Mahomet,  who  pretended  he  had  the  Koran 
from  Heaven  ;  and  he  is  as  much  bound  by  the  in- 
ft  ;uies  of  that  book  as  any  lubjeft  in  his  realm — as 
liable  to  depolinon  as  they  to  puuiinment  lur  breach 
of  them,  and  indeed  has  been  mare  than  once  cio 
poiVd,  j3ud    the    ue.v  .cctiieu    railed   fa*    tile 

tnione.     Thus   far,    it   is   odviou^,    uis   power    is 


164        TURKISH  CONSTITUTIOM 

limited  and  under  control.  But  that  is  not  all — It 
is  equally  certain  that  the  Tuikifh  government  is 
partly  republican  ;  for,  though  the  people  at  large 
have  no  fhare  in  the  legiQation,  and  are  excluded 
by  the  Koran  from  it  (which  Koran  has  eftablifhed 
and  preci.'ely  afcertained  their  rights,  privileges, 
and  perfonal  fecurity),  yet  there  is  an  intermediate 
power  which,  when  louied  to  exertion,  is  flronger 
than  the  Emperor's,  and  (lands  as  a  bulwark  be- 
tween the  extremes  of  defpotiim  and  them.  This 
body  is  the  Ulama,  composed  of  all  the  members 
of  the  Church  and  the  law,  fuperior  to  any  nobi- 
lity, jealous  of  their  rights  and  privileges,  and 
partly  taken  from  the  people,  not  by  election,  but 
by  pro fe fli on  and  talents.— In  this  body  are  com- 
prifed  the  Moulahs,  the  hereditary  and  perpetual 
guardians  of  the  religion  and  laws  of  the  empire  : 
they  derive  their  authority  as  much  as  the  Emperor 
fiom  the  Koian,  and.  when  neceilaiy,  a£i  with  all 
the  firrnnefs  reiulting  from  a  conv.&ion  of  that  au- 
thority ;  which  they  often  demonfliate  by  oppofing 
his  mcafures,  not  only  with  impunity,  but  lucce!;. 
Their  peifons  are  facred  ;  and  they  can,  by  means 
of  the  unbounded  relpcft  in  which  they  are  held, 
1  «nfe  the  people  to  arms,  and  proceed  to  depofe. 
But,  what  is  much  more,  the  Empeior  cannot  be 
depoled  vvithoat  their  concurrence. 

If,  by  this  provifion  of  the  constitution,  the 
power  of  the  monarch  is  limited,  and  the  perfonal 
fecurity  of  the  (uhj:-6t  afcertained,  on  the  one  hand  ; 
the  energv  of  the  empire  in  its  external  cpetations 
is,  on  the  other,  very  frequently  and  iatally  pained 
by  it.  Declarations  of  war  have  been  procrasti- 
nated, till  an  injurious  and  irrecoverable  :  ci  of  hof- 
tility  has  been  iuftained  ;  and  peace  often  protraJSb- 
ed,  when  peacr  would  have  teen  advantageous. 
The  Ulama  being  a  numcioti  body,  it  nan  been 
found  always  difficult,  often  impoflible,  'o  uni'e 
fo  many  different  opinions  j  ana  nufciung    being  to 


AND  GOVERNMENT.  165 

be  done  without  their  concurrence,  the  executive 
power  finds  it  often  impoflible  to  take  a  decitive 
ftep  in  a  crifis  of  advantageous  opportunity.  But 
as  this  code  of  laws  and  government  is  received  as 
a  divine  revelation,  binding  both  prince  and  peo- 
ple, and  fupooied  to  be  iealed  in  Heaven,  the 
breach  of  it  would  be  fufEcient  to  confign  even  the 
monarch  to  depofition  and  death. 

As  U)  the  military  force,  which  in  the  hands  of 
all  Deipots  has  been  made  the  imtrument  of  the 
people's  flavery,  that  of  the  Tuik  could  avail  him 
nothing  ;  and,  whenever  it  does  interfere,  a£U 
onlv  to  his  oveithrow.  The  very  reverer.ee  they 
have  for  his  perlon  arifing  from  obedience  ;o  their 
religion,  they  are,  a  fortiori,  governed  by  if",  not 
him.  He  holds  no  communication  with  them  ; 
and  the  (landing  force  of  the  JaniiTjries  is,  com- 
pared with  the  mats  of  the  people,  only  a  handful. 
Some  wild  accounts,  indeed,  have  ftated  it  at 
300:000  ;  but  the  bed  informed  fix  it  beiovV 
60. coo.  of  which  a  great  part  confifts  of  falfe  mul- 
ters  and  sbules — great  multitudes  being  enrolled  to 
obtain  ceitain  privileges  annexed  to  the  office  of 
Janiffary.  Tne  fact  is,  that  the  chief  force  of  the 
empire  is  a  militia  compofed  of  the  people  ;  who, 
with  reipect  to  obeaience  and  fuborriinaiion,  are  fo 
looie  that  they  leave  their  duty  whenever  they  pleafe, 
without  receiving  any  punifhment.  How  far  the 
people  of  Turkey  are  protected  from  the  encroach- 
ments of  power,  will  appear  from  the  recital  of  a 
fact  related  by  one  of  the  belt  and  molt  liberal  of 
our  hiftorians  on  that  fubje&,  and  which  is  of  too 
great  notoriety  to  be  doubted. 

In  the  year  1755,  the  Porte,  as  it  is  called,  or 
PaLce  of  the  Grand  V.z.'r  at  Constantinople,  was 
burnt  down  :  in  laying  the  plan  for  rebuilding  it 
on  le  form.t  (ite,  the  leading  conn dciai tan  was, 
how  to  con!  rive    matters   Jo  a>    to  re  I  itcure 

ficai  accidents  of  a  like  nature   in  futons  i    ana  it 


l66         TURKISH  CONSTITUTION 

was  determined  that  the  only  certain  means  to  c« 
fo  was,  to  leave  a  Ipace  of  cle3r  ground  all  round 
it,  for  which  purpoie  the  cont/guous  houies  fnouid 
be  purchaled  from  ihe  proprietors,  and  demolished. 
All  the  owners  of  the  houfes  agreed  to  the  (ale, 
except  one  old  woman,  who  pettinaciOdfly  refused  : 
fhe  faid  fhe  was  born,  and  had  lived  all  her  life, 
111  that  fpot.  and  would  not  quit  it  for  any  one. 
Now,  in  England,  for  ihe  convenience  of  i  pi 
canal,  the  P«ili3n>e*  I  would  force  her  to  icil. 
what  did  they  (ay  in  Tuilcc)  ?  When  all  the  p- 
criod  ou>,  "  Why  does  not  the  Sulian  uie  his  au- 
thority, and  take  the  house,  end  pay  her  the  va- 
lue ?"  No!  aniuered  the  magtfirates  and  the 
Ulama,  it  is  impofiible  !  it  cannot  he  done  !  it  is 
her  property.  While  the  power  of  the  monarch  is 
thus  limited,  and  the  rights  of  the  people  thus 
afcertained  by  the  Koran,  and  in  things  manil-ft 
and  open  to  view  rigidly  adhered  to,  jufhce  be- 
tween man  and  man  is  rarely  adminifttied  ;  for, 
though  the  laws  themfelves  are  good,  the  corrupt 
adminiflration  of  them  diiarms  therr  effect,  and 
Giftorts  them  from  their  purpofe.  The  venaTiiy  ©f 
the  judges  is  beyond  conception  flagitious  and  bare- 
faced ;  and  their  connivances  at  fatfe  witneffes  fo 
fcandaloufly  habitual,  that  teflirr.ony  is  become  an 
article  of  commerce,  and  can  be  procured  with  a 
facility  and  at  a  price  that  at  once  ftamps  an  appro- 
brium  on  the  country,  and  furniOies  matter  of 
wnnuer  to  ;he  confederate  mind,  how,  if  judges  are 
fl.'gtious  and  fhamele!s  enough  to  be  guiky  of  it, 
the  people  can  bear  luch  a  pernicious  fyftem  io  long. 
Hence  flow  alt  the  cen lures  on  the  laws  and  govern- 
ment of  thai  country — hence  mod  of  the  imp 
ments  under  which  its  commerce  and  agriculture 
lauguiih  ;  while  the  a£haal  written  Uwi  of  the  realm 
are,  if  culy  admin iftered,  lutHciently  adequate  io 
the  iecuruy  of  property,  the  regulation  of  com- 
merce, the  repreihon  of  vice,  and  \hc  pukiiu 
and  prevention  of  crimes. 


D  GOVERNMENT.  l6y 

In  endeavouring  to  guard  your  mind  againft  an 
illiberal,  vulgar  prejudice,  I  have  dated  to  you 
what  tne  Turkifh  constitution  is,  and  what  the 
laws  ;  but  you  muft  not  carry  what  I  have  faid  to 
an  ovet drained  or  forced  interpretation.  I  would 
not  have  y©u  infer  that  the  people  are  well  govern- 
ed ;  I  only  fay,  that  their  conftituiion  contains 
within  it  the  means  of  better  government  than  is 
fup poled.  I  would  not  have  you  infer  that  property 
is  always  fecure  ;  I  barely  fay  there  are  laws  written 
to  fecure  it.  This  too  I  wifh  to  impreis  on  you, 
that  the  common  people  are  more  free,  and  that  pro- 
perty and  life  are  better  fecured,  in  Turkey,  than 
in  fome  European  countries.  I  will  mention  Spain 
for  one.  Like  the  country  we  are  now  contempla- 
ting, fear  keeps  them,  as  difunited  individuals,  un- 
der pafftve  obedience  inordinary  cafes  ;  but,  unlike 
the  Spaniards,  when  notorionflv  aggrieved  :  whea 
their  property  or  religious  code  is  forcibly  violated  : 
when  the  prince  would  riot  in  blood,  and  perfift 
in  an  unfucceusful  war  :  the  Turks  appeal  to  the 
law  ;  they  find  a  ch'ef  ;  the  fo'diery  join  their 
ftandarcl,  and  depole  or  deftroy  him.  not  on  the  fu- 
rious pictext  of  popular  hatred,  but  upon  the  legiti- 
TfiUe  ground  of  the  Koran,  as  an  infidel,  and  a  vio- 
lator of  the  laws  ef  God  and  -Mahomet — They  al- 
ways, however,  place  his  regular  fucceffor  on  the 
throne.  Yet,  notwithstanding  the  generll  venality 
which  pollutes  the  fountains  of  juftice,  and  not- 
withstanding the  great  abufe  of  power  to  which  I 
have  alluded,  their  internal  policy  is,  in  many  re- 
fpe£t>,  excellent,  and  may  be  compared  with  ad- 
vantage to  that  of  any  nation  in  Europe.  Highway- 
robberry,  houfe-breaking,  or  pilfering,  are  little 
known  and  rarely  pra&ilcd  among  them  ;  and  at  all 
times  the  roads  are  as  fecure  as  the  houies.  Ample 
provifions  too  are  made  again  ft  thole  petty  iecret 
ftauds  which  many  who  carry  a  fair  face  in  England 
and  would  bring  an   aftion  for  damages  again'ft  on 


1 68  MORAL  CHARACTER 

that  fhould  call  (hem  rogues,  pra&tfe  every  day. 
Bakers  are  » he  mo't  frequent  victims  of  j  iftice,  and 
are  not  unfnfqu^ntly  teen  hanging  at  their  own 
doors.  1  hcv  lr«  naui£ted  aug  baftinadoed  for  the 
fiijft  aT-d  fecQnd  offence,  and  on  the  third,  a  itaple 
isiiiven  up  inlo  then  ooor-cafe,  2nd  they  are 
hanged  fiom  '.'.  Noiwirhftanding  which,  men  are 
conftantly  t<  ody  enough   10  purine   the  fame 

courle  of  praet.  \r.  :  »rod  this  ks  more  exiraordir.uty, 
as  the  police  is  to  ftti&ly  auiiideo  to,  that  the  ba- 
fhaw  or  v  zi.  himteli  g •  e^  about  to  diigaile,  in 
ord^r  to  difcovei  r  aucls  and  detctl;  the  conr.'vances 
of  Hie  inic.!..!  oftic  rs  of  juftice.  Bui  what  will 
our  gieat  la  h  =  -s,  Wh©  Coniume  ineir  nights,  deftroy 
their  con  ft  i  tut  ion,  and  fquandei  then  h  fb 
prfepertv  in  gambling;  who  afterwards,  to  repair 
then  (battened  finances,  have  lecouife  to  the  infa- 
mous expedient  of  keeping  gaming-houles,  ana  en- 
deavour to  recover  by  degrading-mean*  what  they 
have- 1  oft  by  fofly-,  to  the  dngrace  of  thcmielves  and 
family,  and  the  fhaine  of  then  icx  and  rank — \\  hat 
will  they  fay  when  I  tell  them,  thai  gaming  is  held 
among  the  Tuiks  to  be  as  infamous  as  th -  ft,  and  a 
game  ft  er  looked  upon  with  more  deteftatien  than  a 
iway  robbei  ?  The  Tu'k'fh  ambaflador  and  ns 
will,  on  their  iciutn  to  their  country,  have 
to  teii  a  cu;;ous  tale  of  this  much-famed  iflana,  111 
that  and  oiKer  reflects. 


sacs: 


LETTER     XXIX. 


?■ 


REJUDICE,  that  canker  of  the  hu- 
man hear*,  ha  injured  mankind  by  impeding  per- 
ional  i.  I'c     and  thereby  clogging  the  cha-ni  el 

of  intellc&uai  improvement  :  it  icibids  that  inter- 


OF  THE  TURKS.  169 

change  of  fentiment — that  reciprocal  communica- 
tion of  opinion — that  generous  circulation  of  intel- 
lectual wealth,  which,  while  it  enriches  another, 
advances  i  tie  If — it  diiTcvers  the  bond  of  lucial  un- 
ion, and  makes  man  fit  down  the  gloomy,  felfiiri 
poffeflor  of  his  own  rniferable  mite,  with  too  much 
hatred  to  give,  and  too  much  pride  to  receive,  thole 
benefits,  which  Providence,  by  leaving  our  nature 
f'o  unaccommodated,  has  pointed  out  as  neceffary  to 
pafs  between  man  and  man  :  under  its  influence  we 
ipurn  from  us  the  good,  if  we  dill.ke  the  hand 
that  offers  it,  and  will  rather. plunge  into  the  mire 
than  be  guided  by  the  light  of  any  one  whole  opin- 
ion is  at  variance  with  our  own. 

Thus  it  is  between  the  Turks  and  us — the  little 
of  their  affairs  which  the  prejudice  of  the  Maho- 
medans  have  allowed  themielves  to  communicate, 
or  fuffered  others  to  glean  among  them,  has  been 
in  general  lo  miiufed,  dittorted,  and  m;i  ..*.cd 

by  the  prejudices  of  the  Chrifiians,  that  it  is  not 
going  beyond  the  truth  to  fay,  theie  exift  not  a 
people  in  the  civilized  world  yvhofe  real  hi  (lory 
and  genuine  fta:e  arc  io  little  known  as  thole  of 
the  Tmks  :  and  the  woifl  of  it  is,  that  not  one 
'  milreprefentation,  not  one  tingle  miilake  htl  fallen 
on  the  generous,  charitable  fidt-  ;  but  ail,  all  with- 
out exception  tcivi  to  rep  re  lent  the  Turk  in  the 
mod  degraded  and  deteftabie  point  01  view.  As 
the  punty  of  the  Chritlian  does  not  allow  him  to 
be  guilty  of  a  wilful,  uncharitable  minepu.entation, 
we  mould  attrj  unavoidable  error,    were  it 

not  that,  till  fpme  hie  authors  whole  liberality  d 
them  honour,  they  all  walked  in  the  very  lame 
track,  and  could  hirdiy  nave  been  fo  uniformly 
erroneous  from  defign.  We  mull  therefore  atl 
bu^c  it  to  religious  zeal  and  oiiftak.cn  piety  ;  in 
Which,  in  this  infr,.aiice  alone,  they  feem  to  be 
reputable  competitors  with,  the  Turks.  The  mo- 
roJericTs,  the   animofuy,  artd   the    lupercilious  ' 

P 


170  MORAL  CHARACTER 

poflcflion  of  the  bigot,  each  holds  in  common  with 
the  other. 

One  ftriking  feature  in  the  conftitution  of  Tur- 
key is,  that  neither  blood  nor  Iplendid  birth  are  of 
themfelves  fufficient  to  recommend  a  man  to  great 
offices.  Merit  and  abilities  alone  are  the  pinions 
which  can  lift  ambition  to  its  height.  The  cottager 
may  be  exalted  to  the  higheft  office  in  the  empire; 
at  lead  there  is  no  abfolute  impediment  in  his  way  ; 
•  nd  I  believe  it  has  often  happened.  Compare  this 
with  France  under  its  late  monarchy,  where  no 
merit  could  raife  a  man  from  the  Canaille  :  this,  I 
fay,  is  one  of  the  criterions  of  a  free  conftitution, 
and  Turkey  is  fo  far  democratic. 

The  very  firft  principle  ingrafted  in  the  minds 
of  the  Mahomedan  children,  is  a  high  contempt  of 
all  religions  but  their  own  ;  and  from  the  minute 
babes  are  capable  of  diftinguifhing,  they  are  taught 
to  call  Chriftians  by  the  name  of  Ghiaour,  or  Infi- 
del :  this  grows  up  in  their  manhood  lo  ftrong  in 
them,  that  they  will  follow  a  Chriftian  through  the 
flreets,  and  even  juftle  againft  him  with  contempt, 
crying,  Ghiaour!  Ghiaour!  or,  Infidel!  I: .fidel  .'  — 
Men  of  dignity  and  rank,  indeed,  will  treat  ChriT- 
tians  with  courtefy  ;  but  as  loon  as  they  are  gone 
©ut  of  hearing,  will  call  them  dog  !  This  is  mon- 
flrous!  But  let  us  recollect  how  a  Turk  would  be 
treated  in  Spain  or  Portugal,  and  we  fhall  fee  that 
inhuman  bigotry  may  be  found  in  a  greater  degree 
among  Chriftians  than  even  Mahomedans.  In  Spain 
cr  Fortugal  they  would  treat  them  thus: — the  com- 
mon people  would  call  them  hogs  ;  they  would  juf- 
tle  them  alio  in  contempt  ;  and  what  is  more,  they 
would  ftab  them  (it  has  often  happened)  por  amor 
dt  Dios  ;  and  as  to  the  people  of  rank,  they  would 
very  confcientioufly  confign  them  to  the  Inquifi- 
tioD,  where  the  pious  fathers  of  the  church  would 
very  piouQy  confign  them  to  the  flames,  and  coolly 
go   to  the  aitar,  and  pray   to  God  to  damn  them 


OF  THE  TURKS.  17  I 

hereafter  to  all  eternity.  So  far  the  balance,  I 
think,  is  in  favour  of  the  Turks.  Need  I  go  fur- 
ther ?— I  will. — 

The  Mahomedans  are  divided  into  two  fe&s,  as 
the  Chriflians  are  into  many.  Thofe  are  the  fe6t  of 
Ali,  and  the  feft  of  Omar.  Now,  I  have  never 
heard  among  them  of  one  feci  burning  the  other  de- 
liberately: but  the  Roman  Catholics,  even  now, 
burn  Proteftants  by  juridical  lentence — burn  their 
fellow  Chriflians  to  death  for  differing  from  them 
in  a  mere  fpeculative  point  of  dccVine.  Which 
then  are  the  better  men?  I  am  fine  it  is  unneceU 
iary  to  (ay  :   though  bad  are  the  beft. 

The  Tuiks  are  allowed,  by  thofe  who  know  them 
beft,  to  have  fome  excellent  qualities;  and  I  think, 
that  in  the  prodigality  of  our  cenfure,  which,  tho' 
flow  acquainted  with  them,  we  are  forward  to  be- 
little, it  would  be  but  fair  to  give  them  credit  for 
many  of  thofe  good  qualities,  which  even  among 
ourfelves  it  requires  the  greatefl  intimacy  and  the 
warmed  mutual  confidence  and  efteem  to  dilclofc 
or  diicover  in  each  other.  That  they  have  many 
vices  is  certain.  What  people  are  they  that  have 
not  ?  Gaming  they  detefl  ;  wine  they  ufe  not,  or 
at  lead  ufe  only  a  little,  and  that  by  flealth  ;  and  as 
to  the  plurality  of  women,  it  can  in  them  be  Icarcely 
deemed  a  vice,  fince  their  religion  allows  it.  One 
vice,  and  one  only,  of  a  dark  dye  is  laid  to  their 
charge  ;  and  that  has  been  trumpeted  forth  with 
the  grievous  and  horrid  addition,  that  though  con- 
tradictory to  nature,  it  was  allowed  by  their  reli- 
gion. This  I  have  reafon  to  believe  is  one  of  the 
many  fabrications  and  artifices  of  Chriflian  zealots, 
to  render  Mahomedanifm  more  odious  :  for  I  have 
been  informed  from  the  moll  competent  and  re- 
ipe£lable  authority,  and  am  therefore  perfuaded,  that 
the  deteflable  crime  to  which  I  allude,  is  forbidden 
both  by  the  Koran  and  their  municipal  laws;  that 
it   is  openly  condemned   by   all,  as   with  us ;  and 


1/2  MORAL  CHARACTER 

!hat,  though  randour  mutt  allow  there  are  many 
who  practice  it  (bv  the  bye  there  are  too  many  in 
England  w;  o  ar^  fuppofed  to  do  the  fame),  there 
are  none  hardy  cr  fhamelefs  enough  not  to  endea- 
vour  to  eottceali  t  :  and,  to  flu  it.  that  it  is  apparently 
as  much  reprobated  there  as  any  where  ;  which,  at 
all  events,  refcues  t lis  laws  and  religion  of  the 
country  from  that  fl:gma. 

Perhaps  there  is  no  part  of  the  world  where  the 
flame  of  parental   nfFeelion   burns  with  more,  ardent 
and  uijextinguifhable  ilrength,  or  is  more  faithfully 
returned  bv    reciprocal   tenciernefs   and  filial  obedi- 
ence, thnn  Tin  key.    Educated  in  the  mcfl  unaffect- 
ed deference  and  pious  iubmiflion  to  their  parents' 
wifi  ;    trained    both    by  precept  and  example  to  the 
greateft    veneration  for   the  aged,  and   !epa  ated  al- 
rrr  their  infancy  from  the  women,   they  ac- 
j  a  modefiv  to  their  fuper:o<s,  and  a  bafhfulnefs 
il  department  to  the  weaker  lex,  which 
never  eeafe  to  influence  them  through  life.    A  Tuik. 
ing  a  woman  in  the  flreet.  tiVins  his  head  from 
her.   art  if  looking  at  her    were   criminal  :   2nd  there 
is  nothing  they  dete.fi;  Jo  much,  01  will  more  fedul- 
ihah   an   impudent,    audacious   woman. 
stter  of  ?.  Tuik  tht  there   i 

irtlier  nee*.  iT.ry,   than  to  let    flip  a  virago  at 
si  iie  inftantly  retreats. 
Since  the  arrival    of    the    Tutkifh    an  -r  in 

London,  I  have  bati  frequent  occafion  to  obfefve.. 
that  the  people  of  his* train  have  been  already,  by 
the  good  example  of  our  Britifh  belles  arid  beaiix, 
pretty  much  cafed  oi  their  rational  mcdcfly. 
c::n  look  at  '.lie  women  with  ?s  broad  and  intrepid 
a  fhre,  as  trie  g'ealcil  puppy  in  the  metropolis, 
eir   hahftual    lei  feience  fc  . 

fair  I  c  it    fpeaks  much  for  their  manly 

lantry,   tnuft  be  allowed  by  candour  to  be  can: 
an     exceis   extravagant    and    irrational.       It    is    tn« 
grcatcft  dif^cace  lo  me   chara&er  of  a  Tu 


OF  THE  TURKS.  1 73 

his  hand  to  a  woman:  this  is,  doubt'efs,  right, 
with  fome  limitations  ;  but  they  carry  it  fo  far  as  to 
allow  no  provocation,  be  it  what  it  may,  iufficient 
to  juftify  ufing  force  or  ftrokes  to  a  woman  ;  the 
utmoft  they  can  do  is,  to  fcold  and  walk  off.  The 
confequence  of  this  is,  that  the  women  often  run 
into  the  moll  violent  excefles.  There  have  been 
inftances  where  they  have  been  g a i h y  of  the  mod 
furious  outrages  ;  where  they  have  violated  the 
laws  in  a  collected  body,  and  broke  open  public 
ftores  of  corn  laid  up  by  the  government  :  the  ma- 
gistrates attended,  the  Janiflaries  were  cailed,  and 
came  running  to  quell  the  riot — but,  behold  they 
were  women  who  committed  it  :  they  knew  no 
way  of  refilling  them,  unlefs  by  force  ;  and  force 
they  could  not  ufe  :  fo  the  ladies  were  permitted 
quietly  to  do  their  work  in  defiance  of  magiftrates, 
law,   right,   and  rea(on. 

Among  the  variety  of  errors  and  moral  abfurdi- 
tirs  faliely  afcribed  to  the  Mahomedan  religion,  the 
exc'ulion  of  women  from  Paradile  holds  a  vciy 
conspicuous  place,  as  a  charge  equally  falfe  and  ab- 
furd  ;  on  the  contrary,  the  women  have  their  fails, 
their  ablutions,  and  the  other  religious  rites  deem- 
ed bv  Mahomedans  nec«(Tary  to  ialvation.  Not- 
withstanding, it  has  been  the  practice  of  travellers 
to  have  recourfe  to  invention,  where  the  cufloms 
of  the  country  precluded  pofitive  information  ; 
and  to  give  their  accounts  rather  from  the  fuggefti- 
ons  of  their  own  prejudiced  imagination,  than  from 
any  fair  inferences  or  conclufions  drawn  from  the 
facts  that  came  under  their  observation. 


P  1 


174  TURKISH  MORALS 


LET  r  E  R    XXX. 


r, 


HE  fuly  -61  I  touched  upon  in  my  lad: 
three  leers,  and  on  which  this,  and  probably  Tome 
Jliccc:  s,    w:ll  turn,    is  attended    with    cir- 

ftanc«f  o{  gieat  delicacy,  and  may  pofiibly  bear 
the  afpect  of  at  lea  ft  a  dubious  import,    as  touching 
the  great  point  of  religion.      I  will    therefore,   be- 
fore    I    proceed    further,     explain    to    you    (left    it 
quite  explanation)  the  whole  icope  of  my 

[eel  throughout  the  whole  of  what  I  have 

faid  lefpe&ing  the  Turks,   is  to  war  with  prejudice,. 

r.oi  to  draw  companions  : — lo  fhew  that  where  the 

s  aie  vicious  or  en  (laved,    it  is  not  the 

n  or  their  laws: — to  convince 

Tmks    arc    not  the    only    people    in    the 

woilu.    v.  ho.  under  ail  the  external  fo:ms  of   fancti- 

tv  a:,  on,    are  capable  of  the   mod  deteftable 

te$,   uuerly    bereft    of  all   pre- 

t.-i  r.OA3  i  •    t  i3  i  ;t  y — :t;d  t'-,bt.  while  they  have  been 

pcrpetua)  luhjrcl:  of  reproach    and  ac- 

.   they  were   combining,  only  jjuli  the  fame 

pence  might  lave  jetoitedon  their 

lowance  can  be  at  all    made  for  hif- 

.  we  may  perhaps  be  diipo- 

fccj  t0  pi  .  :iat  of    t:-  ignorant  Catholic  mi  ill- 

bnaries  of  the  e.  s,  as  entitled  to  iome  excuie, 

Toe    intemperate    zeal    of 

the  fall  exerciie  of  the  rational 

I  ics  :   but  in  this  ngc  of  illumination  and  libe- 

..  he  that  falfifies  from  polemical  malice  {hould 

meet  little  quartet  and  lei's  belief.      And  it  mull  be 

ten  of  viitueand  religion  to  rcJ 


ASD  RELIGION.  175 

tint  churchmen,  difciples  of  the  Chriftan  church, 
which  mould  be  the  fountain  of  purijy  and  truth, 
have  been  fotemoft  in  the  lift  of  falfifiers. 

The  difficulty  of  obtaining  information  of  any 
kind  in  Turkey,  is  very  great  ;  of  their  religion 
chiefly  they  are  extremely  tenacious  ;  and  as  to  their 
women,  it  is  allowed  by  the  bed  informed  men, 
who  have  li'.vl  there  for  manv  yeais,  in  departments 
of  life  that  gave  them  the  be  ft  means  of  obtaining 
information  Eurooeans  an  have,  thai,  at  bell:,  but  a 
very  imperfect  knowledge  can  be  had  of  them.  Yet 
travellers  who  probably  never  migrated  farther  than 
"  ftom  the  green  bed  to  the  b:own,"  have  given  us 
diffule  accounts  of  their  religion  ;  and  adventurers 
who  never  were  beyond  the  purlieus  of  Drury, 
have  fcaled  Seraglio  walls,  and  cairied  off  the  favo- 
rites of  Sultans. 

The  truth  is,  my  dear  Frederick,  the  Tusks,- 
like  all  other  people,  have  their  {hare  of  vices,  but 
are  by  no  means  countenanced  in  them  by  their  re- 
ligion;  and  from  what  1  have  been  able  10  colleft, 
as  well  from  my  own  inquiries  ?.nd  obi'ei  vations,  a-s 
iror$  reading  the  beft  h;  dorian  s,  I  am  psrluaded 
thai  they  have  not,  in  the  whole  icope  of  I\lahome- 
daniim,  one  do&nne  fo  fubverfive  of  virtue,  or  fo> 
encouraging  to  the  indulgence  of  vice,  as  many  that 
ate  to  be  found  in  that  curious  code,  Popery. 

The  mahce  of  oar  inlempeiate  zealots  againfl; 
Mahomed aniim  has  been  of  courle  extended  to  its 
founder  with  more  than  common  exaggeration  and 
additions.  They  have  represented  M  ah  ©met  to  bs 
a  man  of  mean  oiign,  potyefllng  a  mind  unenlight- 
ened by  fciencc  or  literaiuie,  and  an  underftauding 
and  faculties  naturally  grofs.  All  thole  fuggedions 
aie  undoubtedly  falie  ; — he  fpiung  f;om  tHe  mod 
noble  of  all  the  Arabian  tribes — the  Corailhites  :  at 
his  time,  poverty,  lo  far  from  be.ng  a  reproach 
among  them,  was  a  mark  of  every  tumg  thai  was 
<i'c*t  und  dignified,  if  kipported  wirh  magrfcmmity 


Ij6  TURKISH  MORALS 

and  fortitude  ;  and  the  two  firft  caliphs  lived  as 
poor  as  Mahomet  himfelf.  although  they  had  im- 
menfe  revenues,  commanded  vaft  armies,  and  were 
lords  of  gteat  provinces.  As  to  his  underflanding 
1  can  only  fay,  that  perhaps  he  was  the  very  lafl  man 
in  the  world  whofe  intellectual  powers  fhould  be 
called  in  queftion.  His  genius  was  unbounded, 
his  fpirit  enterprifing,  his  powers  of  addrefs  were 
unequalled,  he  was  allowed  to  be  the  greateft  ora- 
tor of  his  time  ;  and  yet,  with  all  theie  qualifica- 
tions, his  underftanding  was  flighted.  It  is  a  logi- 
cal truth,  that  when  people  prove  loo  much,  they 
prove  nothing  at  all  :  our  Chriitian  zealots,  in  this 
inflance,  have  overfhot  the  mark,  and  thereby 
rendered  all  their  other  information  at  lealr.  doubt- 
ful. Perhaps  the  coniummation  of  all  policy  was 
Mahomet's  pretending  to  be  an  id  ot,  in  order  to 
make  his  great  and  wonderful  effufions  appear  to 
be  the  immediate  infpiration  of  Heaven — He  call- 
ed bimielf   the  Idiot  Prophet.* 

The  whole  of  Mahomedanifm  may  be  reduced 
{imply  to  this  one  article  of  faith — "  There  is  but 
one  God,  and  Mahomet  is  the  prophet  ;"  but 
upon  this  they  have  fuperinduced.  from  time  to 
time,  fuch  a  variety  of  ablurdities  as  would  require 
volumes  to  delcjibe  :  however,  in  fit  ft  candour  let 
us  reflect.,  and  afk  our  own  hearts  the  que  {lion, 
"whether  fprinkling  with  holy  water,  or  worlhipping 
a  bit  of  white  wafer  as  God,  can  be  exceeded,  or 
are  lels  abfurd  than  trie  ^etiodicai  ablutions  of  the 
Turks,  or  their  going  on  a  pilgrimage  to  Mecca  ? 

With  regard  to  the  women,  I  have  faid  before 
that  the  belt  information  we  can  obtain  is  very  im- 
porfeft;  all  I  have  been  able  to  coiltct,  you  (hall 
have.  They  cie  foimed  in  a  ftyte  of  the  moil  ex- 
q  lifite  fymmetry,  particularly  about  ihe  cheft  and 
Dofom  :  they  Lave  delicate  fkins,  regular  features, 
black  hair  and  eyes>  and  are,  above  aii  other  beings, 
•  Mohammed. 


AND  RELIGION.  177 

cleanly  and  neat  in  their  perfons,  bathing  twice  a 
day  regularly,  befides  on  other  occafions,  and  not 
fuffeving  even  the  (mallei!  hair  to  remain  upon  their 
bodies.  Thev  are  keot  in  the  mod  rigoious  con- 
finement, and  only  perfons  of  ill  fame  paint.  Wo- 
men of  character  are  there  chafle — nor  is  their 
chaftity  to  be  attributed  to  reftraint  merely,  for, 
from  their  infancy  they  are  trained  to  difcretion  and 
(elf-fubjeclion,  and  the  modefty  natural  to  the  lex 
is  chenfhed  from  its  fir  ft  dawnings.  When  they 
grow  up,  they  are  nor,  like  our  women  here,  fub- 
j~£tcd  to  the  contagion  of  infamous  gallantry;  nei- 
ther are  the  men  trained  to,  nor  do  they  priele 
themielves,  like  fome  among  us,  on  the  arts  of  de- 
duction. In  fact,  that  practice  makes  no  part  o-f 
the  accomplifhrnents  of  their  fine  gentlemen  ;  nay, 
it  is  held  by  them  to  be  infamous.  There  are  no 
fiich  characters  to  be  found  in  Turkey  as  your  box- 
lubby  loungers — none  of  your  upPurt  cubs  like 
tliofe  who  doucllc  the  beft  part  of  the  day  through 
rail-Malt,  St.  James's- fi.ree\  and  Bond-itreet  ;  who, 
without  birth,  wealth,  education,  or  parts,  fancy 
ihemfelves  fine  fellows,  and  powder  their  nofes  in 
I.idies'  head-d  ire  fifes,  whimpering  them  in  order  to  get 
the  reputation  of  gallantry  ;  who  ilsut  like  Bantam 
:r-,  and  affum.c  a  fierce  air  to  conceal  their  con- 
fcious  want  of  (pint  ;  and  dreiled  in  a  iuit  of  regi- 
mentals ho;;ght  by  papa,  at  maau's  requ.eft,  to  ex- 
hibit fweel  Mafler  jscky  to  advantage  in  the  Park — ■ 
though  nevei  to  He  lolled  with  gunpowder,  or 
fona^ed  with  a  bait  in  the  nafly  field  of  battle!  1  !  — 
my  dear  Frederick,  I  have  often  told  you  that 
you  (hall  make  choice  of  yow  own  profefTion.  If 
you  should  chooie  any  of  the  learned  profeffions, 
you  may  fail  in  it  without  difhonour  ;  for  many  of 
the  jbleft  men  have  failed  before  :  but,  maik  m:  i 
avoid  the  military  as  you  wo  Ud  ruin,  unjefc  you 
have  the  requih.es  ;  let  not  the  glitter  of  a  leailet 
coa.^  or  the  empty  na&e  oi  a  f«iaTer?  fcinpt  you  to 


178 


TURKISH  MORALS 


be  like  one  of  thofe  miferable  animals  I  have  de- 
scribed. There  may  be  charafters  more  wicked — I 
know  none  Jo  utteily  contemptible. 

All  extremes  aie  bad  :  but  the  exceedings  of 
virtue  ever,  where  they  mn  into  error,  are  flill 
preferable  to  vice.  However  luclricous  it  may  ap- 
pear, we  cannot  absolutely  defpife  or  condemn  the 
prudery  of  the  Tuikifh  women,  though  it  runs 
into  (uch  extravagance,  that,  when  feeding  their 
poultry,  they  keep  carefully  vieled  if  there  hap- 
pens to  be  a  cock  among  them,  fo  faitidioufly 
avetie  are  they  to  the  odious  male  creature  feeing 
their  pretty  facei. 

When  the  circumftances  under  which  the  Tur- 
kifti  women  fland  are  considered,  it  mult  appear 
amazing,  that  chaflity,  from  principle,  is  univerfal 
among  them,  as  it  is  confeffed  to  be  :  the  nature  of 
man  urges  him  to  defire,  wiih  greatell  ardour,  that 
which  is  moft  forbidden  ;  and  women  whoaie  much 
confined,  may  well  be  fuppofed  to  have  their  paf- 
fions  inflamed  by  the  exaggerated  workings  of  the 
imagination.  Infidelity,  however,  to  the  marriage- 
bed,  is  much  leis  frequent  among  the  men  there, 
than  among  true  women  here  ;  and  the  tide  or  fafh- 
ion.  which  in  this  conntry  gives  iuch  a  rapid  and 
JrreTiftible  circulation  to  vice  and  adulteiy,  runs 
there  in  an  oppofite  direction  j  and  contrary  to  our 
cufloms,  no  man  is  fo  unfafhionable  in  luikey  as 
lie  that  has  interrupted  the  domeftic  peace  of  a  fa- 
mily by   fedu&ion. 

Among  the  many  virtues  which  may  with  drift 
juftice  be  aictibed  to  the  Turks,  hofpitality  holds  a 
conspicuous  place.  It  is  not  confined  to  common 
civility,  it  extends  to  perfonal  protection.  Many 
deem  it  absolutely  their  duty  to  rifk  their  lives  in 
defence  of  their  gu  fts  •,  nor  will  any  motive,  how- 
ever cogent,  be  allowed  to  jufhfy  the  violation  of 
it.  Nay,  to  fuck  a  fyftem  M  it  carried  up,  that  an 
engagement  with  a  (hanger  1$  accepted  as  an  exculc 


AND  RELIGION.  179 

for  not  obeying  the  fummons  of  a  great  man,  when 
no  other  apology,  not  even  lhat  of  indilpofuion, 
would  be  admitted. 

While  the  Turks  abhor  and  defpife  all  other  re- 
ligions but  their  own,  their  government  is  by  no 
means  intolerant  in  fpiritual  concerns.  The  exer- 
cife  of  all  religions  is  free,  and  at  Constantinople 
(we  are  told)  Monks  drefs  in  their  habits,  and  arc 
allowed  at  funeral  pi oce Axons  to  elevate  the  crofs, 
which  is  more  than  the  Engiifh  tyranny  allowed 
the  Roman  Catholics  of  Ireland  to  do,  till  very 
lately  :  a  Turkr  however,  convi&ed  of  apoflacy, 
could  not  by  any.  means  elcape  death.  Meantime 
it  muft  be  oblervecd,  that  if  they  keep  up  a  decent 
femblance  or  the  forms  of  their  religion,  no  intru- 
five  inquiry  is  made  unto  their  real  faith  :  and 
though  it  is  one  of  the  injunctions  of  Mahomet  to 
endeavour  to  convert  unbelievers,  and  they  iome- 
times  in  obedience  to  that  command  lolicit  the  con- 
version of  Chriftians  and  others  ;  they  never  fail 
to  confider  any  renegado,  or  perfon  who  becomes 
a  convert,   with  contempt,  if  not  diiT.ke. 

I  will  conclude    this  letter    with  an  ex'ra&  from 
that  moft  valuable  and  accuiate  work,  Ruffei's  Hift- 
ory  of  Aleppo,   which    will  give    you  a  better,   be- 
caule  a  true,   notion  of   Tuikiih   morals,    than    vu 
are  likely  to  receive  from  general   opinion.      " 
on  the  whole,"  fays  he,  "  whethei  it  be  afjeribed  to 
the   influence    of  their  political    confti'.ution,   or.  to 
the  abfence  of  various   temptations,     which  i.i  Eu- 
rope often  lead  to  the  violation  ol  bev:er  laws  ; 
are    perhaps   few   great   cities   where    many    oJ 
private  and    domeflic  virtues   aie  in   general    more 
prevalent  than  at  Aleppo." 


l3b  VINDICATION  OF  THE 


LETTER    XXXI. 


JL  PIE  ufe  of  periodical  Hated  times  of  de- 
votion is  univerfally  admitted,  and  the  neceflity 
of  adopting  them  makes  a  part  of  the  Chriftian  code. 
The  Mahomedan  religion,  however,  exceeds  it 
far  in  the  rigid  attention  to,  and  frequency  of,  de- 
votion. There  are  no  leis  than  five  flated  times 
of  prayer  in  evety  twenty  four  hours,  fixed  as  in- 
dilpenlable,  at  none  of  which  a  true  believer  fails  ; 
and  the  fervency  of  their  praying  exceeds  even  th« 
frequency,  i  have  heard  it  aliened,  that  if  the 
houl'e  Mas  to  take  fire  while  they  are  at  their  devo- 
tion, they  would  not  break  off  ;  and  io  rigidly  in- 
tent do  they  conceive  it  their  duty  to  be  during 
the  time  of  prayer,  that  if  in  the  mid  ft  of  it  they 
were  interrupted  by  a  fit  of  lneenng  or  co.ughing, 
they  confhier  all  already  done  as  gone  for  nothing, 
s  begin  them  again.  And  to  tell  a  truth 
cf  them,  if  the  Chriftians  cutle  thern,  they  aie  pret- 
ty even  with  them  in  leturn,  never  failing  to  t>ray 
for  ciiico/d,  enmity,  and  diffenfion  among  the  r 
enemies,  as  well  as  health  and  proipenty  to  them- 
jfelves ;  and  to  the  efficacy  of  thoie  prayers  they 
fondly  attribute  all  the  wars  and  di  (Tenuous  which 
inceffantly  harafs  Chriftendom.  A  bell  tolls  as  a  " 
public  notice  of  prayer  ;.  and  when  a  true  JvJdhome- 
dan  hears  it,  let  him  be  where  he  will,  whether  at 
home  or  abroad,  in  the  highway  or  In  the  market, 
be  the  place  dirty  or  clean,  wet  or  dry,  he  imme- 
ditely  tails  down   and  woiihips. 

As  lubfidiary  to  prayer  they  have  their  ablutions, 
in  which  they  are  full  asfcrupuloufly  punctual  as  in, 
their  piayers.    Gne  is  piepaiaiciy  to  prayer,  another 


TURKS  CONTINUED.  l8i 

after  cohabitation  with  women,  a  third  before  eat- 
ing, and  another  again  t incidental.  Thole  they 
never  negleft  to  perform,  unlels  tome  innumerable 
obftacle  lie*  in  the  way.  Charity,  that  mod  glo- 
rious doctrine  of  any  religion,  is  enjoined  by  the 
TCoran  under  the  mod  heavy  denunciation  of  hea- 
venly vengeance,  in  cafe  of  neglect;  and  by  it 
they  are  charged  to  regard  no  bounds  in  liberality 
to  the  poor.  Many  MulTuImen  in  their  zeal  to 
difcharge  this  duty  have  given  a  fourth,  many  a 
third,  and  fome  one  half  of  their  property.  Nay, 
the  inftances  are  not  unfrequent  of  men  giving 
away  their  all,  and  living  afterwards  themielves 
upon  alms.  To  do  drift  juftice  it  mud  be  laid, 
that  poverty  is  no  where  lo  relpeetfully  attended  to, 
honoured,  or  reverenced,  as  among  the  Mahome- 
tans ;  who  have  a  laying  among  them,  "  that  the 
fear  of  want  is  a  mark  of  the  judgment  of   God." 

Abftinence  is  considered  as  a  virtue  among  them, 
and  very  ftriclly  enjoined  as  a  religious  duty.  The 
great  fail  appointed  by  the  Koran  continues  for  the 
inonth.  of  Ramedan,  during  which  time  they  nei- 
ther eat,  drink,  nor  converfe  with  their  wives, 
from  fun-rile  till  the  dars  appear,  or  the  lamps  are 
hung  out  at  the  moiques.  Any  man  who  breaks  it 
is  punifhed  with  deaih  ;  but  the  worft  of  it  is,  that 
they  will  not  ahow  even  travellers,  the  lick  or  the 
woanded,  to  plead  a  ugh:  to  exemption  :  fome  of 
the  Turks,  however,  and  all  the  Chndians,  have 
hit  upon  expedients  to  pats  the  month  without 
much  mortification  ;  that  is,  deeping  in  bed  all  day, 
ana  lilting  up  and  caroufing  all  nignt,  to  evade  tne 
reitramt. 

The  foft  ^nd  greated  ordinance  of  their  religion 
is  the  pilgrimage  to  Mecca.  which  when  once  ac- 
complished .is  iuppoied  to  be  a  dire  it  paifpott  to 
Heaven  ;vand  thete  are  few  of  them  who  do  not  a 
one  time  or  other  of  their  lives  take  mat  painful 
and  hazardous  journey.     As   thU  is  a  very  imeieit- 


l32  VINDICATION  OF  THE 

ing journey,  however,  to  travel  in  the  cUfet,  as  it 
includes  the  defcription  of  a  caravan,  and  ferves  to 
ihew  to  what  extremeties  enthuftalm  can  influence 
men,  I  will  give  you  a  defcription  of  it  as  handed 
to  me  by  a  very  accurate  and  ingenious  perlon,  on 
v.  i.cfe  precile  veracity  I  can  rely  ;  fird  making  lorne 
remaiks  upon  the  preceding  part  of  this  letter. 

You  will  obferve  from  what  I  have  already  faid, 
that,  excepting  the  mere  points  of  religious  faith, 
the  moral  ordinances  of  Mahomedaniim  compre- 
hend mod  of  thole  parts  of  the  Chridian  religion, 
on  the  practice  of  which  the  reputation  of  piety  is 
founded  ;  and  that  for  drift  obedience  to  thofe 
ordinances  the  Mahoraedans  are  more  remarkable 
than  we  are.  Adultery  is  not  frequent  among 
them  ;  wine  is  feldom  or  never  ufed  ;  theft  is  little 
known  j  io  is  murder.  Then  in  the  practical  parts 
of  devotion,  there  are  in  the  fir  ft  place  prayers; 
fecondly,  abdinence  or  fading  ;  thirdly,  charity. 
Thofe  are  all  Chriftian  doctrines,  more  eealoufly 
obierved  by  them  than  by  us.  Their  ablutions  aic 
at  lead  no  injury  to  the  caufe  of  morality  or  piety  ; 
but  raiher,  being  done  as  a  religious  exercife,  ferve 
to  keep  up  the  ienes  of  intercourie  which  fhould 
ftibfift  between  the  creature  and  his  Creator  :  be- 
fides,  1  cannot  help  thinking  with  our  inimitabla 
poet  Thomfon,  that 

from  the  body's  purity,  the  mind 

Receives  a  fecret  fympathetic  aid.     Seasons — Summer. 

And  as  to  the  pilgrimage  to  Mecca,  however  ina- 
tional  it  may  appear  to  us,  it  is  at  lead  recommended 
by  fincerity  and  z~a!,  and  is  doubtlcls  in  the  eye  of 
an  Bii.-feeing  Providence  meritorious.  He,  we  aie 
to  fuppofe,  will  judge,  not  by  the  value  of  the  act, 
but  the  purity  of  the  motive;  and  will  accept  it 
as  the  offering  of  a  frail,  blind  mortal,  bending  in 
obedience  to  that  which  he  conceives  to  be  the  will 
of  Heaven.  Refides,  for  the  life  of  me  I  cannot 
fee  why  a  pilgrimage  to  Mecca  is  at  all  more  culpa- 


TURKS  CONTINUED.  183 

ble  than  a  pilgrimage  to  Jerufalem  ;  not  to  mention 
the  tboufand  other  holy  places  to  which  well-mean- 
ing Chriftians  go,  for  their  foul's  fake,  at  imminent 
hazard  of  their  lives,  and  certain  mortification  and 
hardfhip  to  their  bodies. 

Ban ifh  then,  my  Frederick!  banifh  from  your 
heart  all  illiberal  and  uncharitable  prejudices,  if  any 
have  yet  found  their  way  to  it.  Revere  and  cling 
to  your  religion  as  "the  bed:  and  mod  conducive  to 
eternal  and  temporal  happinefs  ;  and  the  more  good 
becaule  it  enjoins  us  to  be  charitable  even  to  the 
Jews  as  well  as  to  the  Gentiles  :  but  never  think 
that  you  advance  the  caufe  of  that  religion,  or  do 
fervice  to  your  God,  by  waging  war  agninft  your 
fellow-creatures  for  opinions  they  can  no  more  help 
entertaining  than  you  can  help  having  yours,  or  by 
denouncing  againft  them  that  eternal  lenience  which 
reds  with  the  Almighty  alone  to  judge  of  or  to  pro- 
nounce. 

To  a  benevolent  mind  the  animofities  of  mankind 
prefent  a  mod  afR:c~ting  picture;  and  the  frivolous 
pretexts  upon  which  thole  animofities  are  grounded 
render  it  only  the  more  horrible.  One  would  think 
that  the  fubftantial  traffic  of  life,  and  the  flrugglc 
of  mankind  for  the  fuperfluities  of  it.  of  themfelves 
afforded  ample  materials  for  Icufflc,  without  refort- 
ing  to  the  fhadows  of  fpeculation  for  contention. 
Yet  experience  has  (hewn  us  that  opinion  is  a  much 
more  copious  fource  of  animofity  and  warfare  ;  and 
that  for  one  man  who  has  been  curled,  murdered, 
or  deflroyed  by  his  fellow-creatures  in  a  contefl  for 
property,  there  are  a  thoufand  who  have  fallen  la- 
crifices  to  the  vengeance  of  hofhlc  opinion. 

Were  it  poffible  that  I  could  obtain  from  the 
bounty  of  Heaven  a  grant  ef  the  firft  wifh  of  my 
heart,  that  wifh.  fhould  be  to  fee  all  mankind  in 
haimony  and  mutual  good  will,  ranging  without 
diftinction  under  the  one  great  name  of  man  and 
brother.     As   thote  who  foment  the  dilunion  be- 


184  VINDICATION  OF  THE  TURKS,   &c. 

tween  them  are  the  mod  pernicious  wonders  of 
fociety,  fo  he  who  endeavours  to  bring  them  one 
ftep  nearer  to  a  gencial  accommodation  of  fentiment, 
who  drives  to  inculcate  the  principles  of  mutual 
toleration,  and  encourage  the  growth  of  reciprocal 
aft\.ftion  between  men  as  fellow  beings,  may  be 
judly  ranked  among  the  befl  friends  of  mankind, 
and  the  mod  faithful  fervants  of  Him  who  gave 
being  to  all. 

Among  the  grofs  mifreprefentations  of  which  I 
complain,  and  which  for  the  lake  of  mankind  I 
lament,  is  that  general  faliehood,  the  infidelity  of 
theTurkifh  women.  The  refpe&able  author  whom 
I  have  before  taken  the  freedom  of  quoting,  I 
mean  Dr.  RuflM,  declares  that  in  twenty  years  re- 
(idence  at  Aleppo,  he  did  not  remember  a  public 
inftance  of  adultery  ;  and  that  in  the  piivate  walks 
of  fcandal  the  fa  he  heaid  of  were  among  the  low- 
er! claf 5,  and  did  not  in  number  exceed  a  dozen. 
i;  In  refpeft  to  the  Franks  (continues  be)  the  un- 
dertaking is  attended  not  only  with  luch  rifk  to  the 
individual,  but  may  i-n  its  eon'equences  Co  Jerioufly 
involve  the  whole  fettlement,  that  it  is  either  ne- 
ver attempted,  or  is  concealed  with  a  iecrecy  un- 
exampled in  other  matters.  I  have  reaion  to  be- 
lieve that  Euiopean  travellers  have  lometimes  had 
a  Greek  courtelan  impoied  on  them  for  a  iultana  ; 
and  after  having  been  heartily  frightened,  have 
been  induced  to  pay  fmartly,  in  order  to  prelerve 
a  fecret  which  the  day  after  was  known  to  half  the 
fiil-rrhood  in  town."  He  remarks,  however,  that 
at  Conflaniinople  the  flate  of  gallantry  is  different* 

On  the  fubjeft  of  the  Turkiih  moral  char  after, 
I  have  endeavouied  to  be  as  concrie  as  jutlice 
would  allow  me  to  be  ;  and  yet  I  find  that  1  have 
gone  to  !ome  length.  I  cannot  however  difmiis  it 
without  giving  you  a  trait  to  which  the  mod  obfti- 
nate  polemical  prejudice,  and  the  mod  inveterate 
haired,   muik  in    ipite  of  them   pay   the  tribute  of 


DESCRIPTION  OF  A  CARAVAN.     185 

applaufe.  Their  treatment  to  their  flaves  is  beyond 
ail  example  among  us  humane,  tender,  and  gene- 
rous, and  luch  as  may  well  bring  a  blufh  into  the 
faces  of  Chriftian  dealers  in  human  flofh.  When, 
young  (laves,  male  or  female,  are  bought  by  a 
Turk,  they  feem  to  be  introduced  into  the  family 
rather  in  the  condition  of  an  adopted  child  ;  they 
receive  the  fame  education,  perform  nearly  the 
fame  offices,  and  are  bound  to  no  greater  marks  of 
refpeft  than  their  mafter's  own  children — and  in 
fa£t  feel  none  of  the  galling  circumftances  of  a  (late 
of  fervility  ;  the  very  word  treatment  they  ever  re-^ 
ceive  is  to  be  put  on  a  footing  with  the  menial  do- 
medics,  or  ordered  to  the  lame  duty  as  a  valet  or  a 
page.  It  olten  happens,  on  the  other  hand,  that 
they  are  married  into  the  family,  and  very  fre- 
quently are  promoted  to  high  offices  in  the  date. 
If  they  adopt  the  religion  of  their  mailers,  it  is 
always  fpontaneouily  ;  and  even  to  flaves  taken  in 
war,  no  compulfion  is  ufed  to  make  them  change 
their  faith. 

The  following  is  the  bed  defciiption  I  am  able 
to  give  you  of  an  Ejdern  caravan.  It  exactly  co- 
incides with  my  own  observations,  and  with  the 
various  accounts  I  have  had  from  others.  I  owe 
it,  as  well  as  the  account  of  the  proceedings  of  the 
pilgiims  at  Mecca,  to  the  kind  offices  of  a  friend, 
who  took  the  pains  to  procure  them  for  me. 


DESCRIPTION  OF  A  CARAVAN. 

Jndofed  in  the  preceding  Letter, 

A  CARAVAN,  which  is  Co  often  mentioned  in 

the    hiltory  and    defcription  of  the  Ead,   and  in  all 

the  tales  and  dories  of  thoie  countries,  is  an  aiTem- 

blage  of  travellers,  partly  pilgrims,  pat  tiy  merchants, 

.who  collect  together  in  order  to  conlolidate  a  i'uf- 


lS6     DESCRIPTION  OF  A  CARAVAN*. 

ficieit  force  to  protect  them,  in  travelling  through 
the  hideous  wilds  and  burning  delerts  over  which 
y  arc  conftrained  to  pals  for  commercial  and 
cr  purpofes  :  thofe  wilds  being  infefted  with 
»bs,  who  make  a  profeflion  of  pillage,  and  rob 
In  moft  formidable  bodies,  fome  a!mo(t  as  large  as 
mall  armies.  As  the  collection  of  luch  a  number 
Requires  time,  and  the  embodying  of  them  is  a  ieri- 
ous  concern,  it  is  concerted  with  great  care  and 
preparation,  and  is  never  attempted  without  the 
per  mi  (lion  of  the  prince  in  whole  dominions  it  is 
to  be  formed,  and  of  thole  alfo  through  whole  do- 
minions it  is  to  pais,  expreiTed  in  writing.  The 
exacl  number  of  men  end  carriages,  mules,  horles, 
and  other  bea Its  of  burthen,  are  Ipeeified  in  the 
licenle;  and  the  merchants  to  whom  the  caravan 
belongs,  regulate  and  direft  every  thing  appertain- 
ing'to  its  government  and  police  during  the  journey, 
'and  appoint  the  various  officers  neceffaiy  for  con- 
ducing it. 

Each  caravan  has  four  principal  officers  :  the  firft, 
the  caravanbachi,  or  head  of  the  caravan  ;  the  fe- 
co'nd,  the  captain  of  the  march  •,  the  third,  the 
captain  of  the  flop  or  reft ;  and  the  fourth,  the 
captain  of  the  distribution.  The  firft  has  the  un- 
contrclable  authority  and  command  over  all  the 
others,  and  gives,  them  his  orders  :  the  fecond  is 
abfolute  during  the  march  ;  but  his  authority  imme- 
diately ceales  on  the  (topping  or  encamping  of  the 
caravan,  when  the  third  affumes  his  fhare  of  the 
authority,  and  exerts  it  during  the  time  of  its  re- 
maining at  reft:  and  the  fourth  orders  the  dilpofi- 
tion  of  every  part  of  the  caravan,  in  -cafe  of  an 
attack  or  battle.  This  laft  officer  has  alio  during 
the  march  the  infpe£tion  and  direction  of  the  dis- 
tribution of  -provifions,  which  is  conducted  under 
his  management  by  leveral  inferior  officers,  who  are 
obliged  to  give  fecurity  to  the  mafter  of  the  cara- 
van ;  each   of  them   having  the  care   of  a  certaia 


DESCRIPTION  OF  A  CARAVAN1.     187 

numbei  of  men,  elephants,  dromedaries,  camels, 
Sec.  Sec.  which  they  undertake  to  conduft  and  fur- 
nifh  with  provifions  at  thei'  own  ri'que,  accord- 
ing to  an  agreement  ftipulated  between  them. 

A  fifth  officer  of  the  caravan  is  the  pay-mafter  or 
treafurer,  who  has  under  him  a  great  many  clerks 
and  interpreters,  appointed  to  keep  accurate  jour- 
nals of  all  the  material  incidents  that  occur  upon 
the  journey.  And  it  is  by  thefe  journals,  figned 
by  the  fuperior  officers,  that  the  owners  of  the  ca- 
ravan judge  whether  they  have  been  well  or  ill 
ferved  or  conducted. 

Another  kind  of  officers  are  the  mathematicians, 
without  whom  no  caravan  will  preiume  to  fet  out. 
There  are  commonly  three  of  them  attached  to  a  ca- 
ravan of  large  fize  ;  and  they  perform  the  offices 
both  of  quarter-mailers  and  aides-de-camp,  leading 
the  troops  when  the  caravan  is  attacked,  and  affign- 
ing  the  quarters  where  the  caravan  is  appointed  to 
encamp. 

Tnere  are  no  lefs  than  five  diftinft  forts  of  cara- 
vans; fir  ft,  the  heavy  caravans,  which  are  compoi- 
ed  of  elephants,  dromedaries,  camels  and  horles  ; 
iecondly,  the  light  caravans,  which  have  but  few 
elephants  ;  thirdly,  the  common  caravans,  where 
there  are  none  of  thofe  animals  ;  fourthly  thehorfc 
caravans,  where  there  are  neither  dromedaries  nor 
camels  ;  and  laflly,  fea  caravans,  con  filling  of  vef- 
iels  ;  from  whence  you  will  obf^rve  that  the  w®rd 
caravan  is  not  confined  to  the  land,  but  extends  to 
the  water  alio. 

The  proportion  obferved  in  the  heavy  caravan  is 
as  follows  :  When  there  are  five  huudred  ele- 
phants, they  add  a  thoufand  dromedaries  and  two 
thoufand  horles  at  the  ieaft  :  and  then  the  efcort  is 
corn po fed  of  four  thculand  men  on  horfeback. 
Two  men  are  required  for  leading  one  elephant, 
five  for  three  dromedaries,  and  leven  for  eleven  cam- 
els.    Tki$  multitudaof  fervants,  together  with  the 


I  88     DESCRIPTION  OF  A  CARAVAN. 

cfficeis  and  palTengers,  whofe  number  is  uncertain, 
fiive  to  lupport  the  efcort  in  caie  of  a  fight,  and 
render  the  caravan  more  formidable  and  lecure. 
The  palTengers  are  not  absolutely  obliged  to  fight  ; 
nut  according  to  the  laws  and  ulagesof  the  caravans, 
if  they  refulc  to  do  lb,  they  are  not  entitled  to  any 
provifions  whatever  from  the  caiavan,  even  though, 
they  fhould  agree  to  pay  an  extravagant  price  for 
them. 

Every  elephant  is  mounted  by  what  they  call  a 
n:ck  :  that  is  to  fay,  a  young  lad  of  nine  or  ten 
years  old,  brought  up  to  the  bufinefs,  who  drives 
the  elephant,  and  pricks  it  with  a  pointed  iron  to 
animate  it  in  the  fight;  the  fame  lad  alio  loads  the 
fire-arms  of  the  two  ioldiers  wHb  mount  the  ele- 
phant,   with  him. 

The  day  of  the  caravan  felting  out  being  once 
fixed,  is  never  altered  or  poftponcd  ;  Co  that  no 
difappointment  can  poiTibly  enlue  to  any  one. 

One  would  fuppofe  th-.u  fo  enormous  and  power- 
ful a  body,  fe  well  armed,  tpigrrf  be  certain  of  mov- 
ing forward  without  fear  of  being  robbed  ;  but  as 
raoft  of  the  Arabian  princes  have  no  other  means 
to  fubfrft  but  by  their,  robberies,  they  keep  fpies 
in  all  parts,  who  give  them  notice  when  the  cara- 
vans let  out,  which  they  way-lay  ;  and  (ometime* 
attack  with  fuperior  force,  overpower  them,  plun- 
der them  of  all  th^ir  ticalure,  and  make  flaves  of 
the  whole  convoy — foreigners  excepted,  to  whom 
they  generally  ilirw  more  mercy.  If  they  are  re- 
pulled,  they  generally  come  to  lome  agreement  ; 
the  conditions  of  which  are  pretty  well  obierved, 
efpectally  if  the  aiTidants  are  native  Arabians.  The, 
carrying  on  of  rotberiss  with  loch  armies  may  ap- 
pear aftunifhmg  ;  but  when  the  temptation  is  con- 
sidered, and  when  it  is  known  that  one  caravan 
only  is  iometimes  enough  to  enrich  thoie  prince?, 
much  of  our  lurprife  vanifhes. 


DESCRIPTION  OF  A  CARAVAN,     l  $9 

They  are  obliged  to  ufe  great  precautions  to  pre- 
vent the  caravan  from  introducing  '  that  dreadful 
diftemper,  the  plague,  into  the  places  through  which 
they  pafs,  or  from  being  themfelves  infe&ed  with 
it.  When  therefore  they  arrive  near  a  town,  th« 
inhabitants  of  the  town  and  the  people  of  the  ca- 
ravan hold  a  folemn  conference  concerning  the 
ftate  of  their  health,  and  very  fineerely  communi- 
cate to  each  other  the  ftate  of  the  cafe,  candidly 
informing  each  other  whether  there  be  danger  on 
either  fide. — When  there  is  reafon  to  fufpeel:  any 
contagious  diftemper,  they  amicably  agr«e  that  no 
communication  whatever  fhall  take  place  between 
them  ;  and  if  the  caravan  ftanda  in  need  of  provi- 
fions,  they  are  conveyed  to  them  with  the  utmoft 
caution  over  the  walls  of  the  town. 

The  fatigues,  hardfhtps,  and  hazards,  attending 
thofe  caravans,  are  fo  great,  that  they  certainly 
would  never  be  undertaken,  if  the  amazing  profits 
did  not  in  fome  meafure  counterbalance  them.— 
The  merchant  who  travels  in  them  muft  be  con- 
tent with  luch  provifions  as  he  can  get,  muft  part 
with  al!  his  delicacies,  and  give  up  all  hope  of  eafe  ; 
he  muft  fubmit  to  the  frightful  confufion  of  lan- 
guages and  nations;  the  fatigues  of  long  marches 
over  fands,  and  under  a  climate  almoft  fufHcientiy 
hot  to  reduce  him  to  a  cinder :  he  muft  fubmit 
cheerfully  to  exorbitant  duties  fraudulently  levied, 
and  audacious  robberies  and  lubtle  tricks  pratliled 
by  the  herd  of  vagabonds  who  follow  the  caiavans 
— for  preventing  which,  the  merchants  have  a  va- 
riety of  well  contrived  locks,  that  can  only  be 
opened  by  thoie  who  know  the  knack  of  them. 

B  it  in  tome  tracks  of  caravans  there  are  dangers, 
and  horrible  ones  againft  which  no  human  fore  fight 
or  power  can  provide,  and  beneath  which  whole 
caravans  fink,   and  are  never  after  heard  of. 

The  Egyptian  caravans  are  particularly  iubje6f.  to 
hazards  in   the   horrid  tracks  they  are  neceilanly 


Jcp     DESCRIPTION"  OF  A  CARAVAN. 

obliged  to  take  through  fand)  defer's,  where,  for 
boundlefs  extents,  nature  has  denied  one  fingle 
circumftance  of  favour;  where  a  blade  of  grafs  ne- 
ver grew,  nor  a  drop  of  water  ever  ran  ;  where  the 
icoiching  fire  of  the  fun  has  banifhed  the  kindly 
influence  of  the  other  elements  :  where,  for  feve- 
ral  days  journey,  no  objsft  meets  the  eye  to  guide 
the  parched  traveller  in  his  way  ;  and  where  the 
cafual  track  of  one  caravan  is  doled  by  the  moving 
fands,  before  another  can  come  to  take  advantage 
of  it.  In  thole  vair  plains  of  burning  fands,  if 
the  guide  fhould  happen  to  lofe  his  way.  the  pro- 
vifion  of  water,  fo  neceffary  to  carry  them  to  the 
place  where  they  3re  to  find  more,  mud  infallibly 
fail  them  :  in  fuch  a  cafe  the  mules  and  bodes  di« 
with  fatigue  and  third  ;  and  even  the  camels,  n'*f- 
withftanding  their  extraordinary  power  to  fubf.  d 
without  water,  foon  perlfl?  in  the  fame  manner, 
together  with  the  people  of  the  caravan,  wander- 
ing in  thofe  frightful  deferts. 

But  more  dreadful  ftill,  and  dill  more  inevitable, 
is  the  danger  when  a  fouth  wind  happens  to  rife  in 
thofe  fandy  deferts.  The  lead  mifchicf  it  occafions 
is,  to  dry  up  the  leathern  ba^s  which  contain  the 
provifion  of  water  for  ihe  journey.  This  wind, 
to  which  the  Arabs  give  the  epithet  of  poiioned, 
often  ftifles  in  a  moment  thofe  who  have  the  mis- 
fortune to  meet  it  ;  to  prevent  which,  they  are 
obliged  to  throw  themieives  immediately  on  the 
ground,  putting  their  faces  clofe  to  the  burning 
fasds  which  iurround  them  on  all  fides,  and  cox- 
ing their  mouths  with  fome  linen  cloth,  left  by 
breathing  they  fhould  {"wallow  indantaneous  death, 
which  1  his  wind  carries  with  it  wherever  it  ex- 
tends.—  Bcfides  which,  whole  caravans  are  cfien 
buried  under  moving  hi' Is  of  burning  land,  railed 
by  'he  agitation  of  the  winds. 

All    thofe   horrors  and   dangers  are  fo  exquifitely 
described   by   our  charming  bard  Thomson,   thai  I 


DESCRIPTION  OF  A  CARAVAN.     191 

cannot  refrain  tranfcribing  the  pafTige,  as  bringing 
them  more  immediately  home  to  the  understanding 
and  the  heart,  than  volumes  of  common  defcrip- 
tion  could  do. 

— — Breathed  hot 

From  all  the  boundlels  furnace  of  the  fky, 

And  the  wide  glittering  walle  of  burning  (and, 

A  luffocating  wind  the  pilgrim  i'mites 

With  inftant  death.      Patient  of  third  and  toil, 

Son  of  the  Delert !  even  the  camel  feels, 

Shot  through  his  withered  heart,   the  fiery  blaft. 

Or  from  the  black-red  either  buritmg  broad 

Sallies  the  fudden  wirlwind.     Straight  the  fands, 

Commov'd  around,   in  gathering  eddies  play  ; 

Nearer  and  nearer  flill  they  darkening  come  ; 

Till,   v\  ith  the  general  all-involving  ftdrm 

Swept  up,  the  whole  continuous  wilds  arife; 

And  by  their  noon-day  fount  dejecled  thrown, 

Or  funk,  at  night  in  fad  difaftrous  flcep 

Beneath  defcending  hills,  the  caravan 

Is  buried  deep.      In  Caro's  crowded  ftreets 

Th'  impatient  Merchant  wondering  waits  in  vain, 

And  Mecca  faddens  at  the  long  delay. — 

Yet,  notwithfbanding  all  thofe  horrible  circumftan- 
ces  of  terror  and  danger — trade,  and  the  defne  of 
gain,  on  the  one  hand,  induce  multitudes  of  people 
to  run  the  hazard. 

Impiger  extremos  currit  Mercator  ad  Indos, 

Per  marc  pauperiem  fugiens,  per  iaxa,  per  ignes. 

Horace. 

And  on  the  other  hand,  enthulialm  and  religious 
zeal  tend  thouiands  10  tempt  their  fate,  and  take  a 
paffage  to  Heaven  through  thole  horrid  regions. 
Thus  we  fee  in  what  various  ways  delufion  ope- 
rates.— The  merchant  might  find  a  livelihood,  and 
the  bigot  his  way  to  divine  favour,  jull  as  well  tey 
flaying  within  the  confines  of  their  own  native 
home. 


192     DESCRIPTION  OF  A  CARAVAN, 


ACCOUKT      OF    THE     CEREMONIES    OBSERVED      Br 
PILGRIMS    ON    THEIR    ARRIVAL    AT    MECCA. 

The  caravans  are  generally  To  ordered,  as  to  arrive 
at  Mecca  about  forty  days  after  the  Faft  of  Ramedan, 
and  immediately  previous  to  the  Corban,  or  Grea: 
Sacrifice.  Five  or  fix  days  before  that  feftival,  the 
three  great  caravans,  viz.  that  from  Europe,  that 
from  Aha  Minor,  and  that  from  Arabia,  unite  ;  and 
all,  confiding  of  about  two  hundred  thouiand  men, 
and  three  hundred  thouiand  beafts  of  burthen,  en- 
camp at  fome  miles  from  Mecca.  The  pilgrims 
form  themlelves  into  fmall  detachments,  and  enter 
the  town  to  arrange  the  ceremonies  preparatory  to 
the  Great  Sacrifice.  They  are  led  through  aftreet 
of  continual  afcent,  till  they  arrive  at  a  gate  on  an 
eminence,  called  the  Gate  of  Health.  From  thence 
they  fee  the  gi eat  mofque  which  inclofes  the  Houie 
of  Abraham.  They  ialute  it  with  the  moft  pro- 
found refpe£l  and  devotion,  repeating  iwice,  "  Sa- 
lam  Alek  Irufoui  Allah  !'"  that  is  to  iay,;i  Peace  be 
with  the  AmbafTidor  of  Gcd  !"  Thence,  at  fome 
diilance,  they  mount  five  fteps  to  a  large  platform 
faced  with  ftone,  where  they  offer  up  their  pray- 
ers :  they  then  deicer\d  on  the  other  fide  of  it,  and 
advance  towards  two  arches,  of  the  lame  kind  of 
dimenfions,  but  at  fome  diftance  from  each  other, 
through  which  they  pais  with  great  filence  and 
devotion.  This  ceremony  tnaa  be  performed  le- 
ven  tunes. 

From  hence  proceeding  to  the  great  mofque 
which  indoles  the  Houle  of  Abraham,  they  enter 
thj  mofque,  zi)d  walk  lever,  times  round  the  little 
building  contains,  within  it,  faying,  "  This  is  the 
Houle  of  GoiJ,  and  of  his  fervant  Abraham."  Then 
killing  with  great  veneration  a  black  ftone,  laid  to 
have  delcendtd  white  from  Heaven,  they  go  to 
the  famous  well  cahed  Zun  Zun,  which   the  angel 


DESCRIPTION  OF  A  CARAVAN,     193 

fhewed  to  Hagar  when  fhe  was  di  ft  re  fled  in  the  de- 
leit,  and  could  find  no  water  for  her  iom  Ifhmae!, 
and  which  the  Arahs  call  Zem  Z  m.  Into  this 
well  they  plunge  wiih  all  their  cloches,  Tepeat*ng 
"  Toba  Alia,  Toba  Alia  !"  that  is  10  feys  "  For- 
givenets,  God  !  Forgiveneis,  God!"  They  drink, 
a. draught  of  .  that  fee. id,   turbid  wener,    ar.d  depart. 

The  duty  of  bathing  and  drinking  hey  are  oblig- 
ed to  pais  through  ence  ;  but  thole  who  would  gain 
Paradiie  bofore  the  others,  muff,  rrpeat  it  once  a 
-day  during  the  fhy  of  toe  caravan  at  Mecca. 

At  fifteen  miles  from  the  town  of  Mecca  there 
is  a  hill  called  "  Ghiabal  Atafata,"  or  "  the  Mount 
of  Fotgivenefs."  It  is  about  two  miles  in  citcum- 
ference — a  mo  ft  delicious  ipot.  On  it  Adam  and 
Eve  met,  after  the  Lord  had,  for  their  tranigrcf- 
iions,  feparated  them  ioity  years.  Here  they 
cohabited  and  lived  in  excels  of  happinefs,  having 
built  a  houfe  on  it,  culled  "  Beith  Adam,"  that  is 
to  fay,  ;:  the  Houfe  of  Adam."  On  the  eve  of 
•the  day  of  Sacrifice,  the  three  caravans,  ranged  in 
a  triangular  form,  iui round  this  mountain — dating 
the  whole  night  the  people  rejoice,  clamour,  and 
riot — firing  off  cannon,  mufkeis,  piftols,  and  firc- 
woiks,  with  an  inceffant  iound  of  drums  and  trum- 
pets. Ac  loon  as  day  breaks,  a  piofound  filence 
lucceeos  —  they  ilay  their  fheep  and  offer  up  their 
facrifice  on  the  mountain  with  every  Uemonftration 
of  the  mo  ft  profound  devotion. 

On  a  ludden  a  icheik  (or  head  of  the  templet, 
a  kind  of  prela  ;e,  ruihes  from  amidft  them,  mounted 
on  a  camel  —  lie  aicends  five  fteps,  rendered  practi- 
cable for  the  purpofe,  and  in  a  ftud.ed  feunpn 
preaches  thus  to  tne  people  : 

t:  Return  prase  and  thanks  for  the  infinite  and 
immente.  benefits  granted  by  God  to  Mahomedans, 
tltrougii  the  mediation  of  his  mod  beloved  friend 
and  piophet,  M-dtomet  :  for  that  he  has  deliver*  d 
them  frotn  the  fid  very  and  bondage  of  iin  and  ica- 

R 


194     FREQUENT  BROILS  AT  ALEPPO. 

latry.  in  which  they  were  plunged  :  has  given  them 
the  Houfe  of  Abraham,  from  whence  they  can  be 
heard,  and  their  petitions  granted  ;  aifo  the  moun- 
tain of  forgivenefs,  by  which  they  can  implore 
Him,  and  obtain  a  pardon  and  remiflion  of  all 
their  fins. 

"  For  that  the  bleffed,  pious,  and  merciful  Gon, 
giver  of  all  good  gifts,  commanded  his  fecretary, 
Abraham,  to  build  himlelf  a  houfe  at  Mecca,  whence 
his  defcendants  might  pray  to  the  Almighty,  and 
their  defires  be  fulfilled. 

"  On  this  command  all  the  mountains  in  the 
world  ran,  as  it  were,  each  ambitious  to  aflift  the 
iecretary  of  the  Lord,  and  to  furnilh  a  (lone  to- 
wards erefting  the  holy  houfe;  all,  except  this 
poor  little  mountain,  which,  through  mere  indi- 
gence, could  not  contribute  a  (lone.  It  continued 
•  therefore  thirty  years  grievoufly  afflicted  :  at  length 
the  Eternal  God  obierved  its  anguifh,  and,  moved 
with  pity  at  its  long  fuffering,  broke  forth,  laying, 
I  can  forbear  no  longer,  my  child  !  your  bitter  la- 
mentations have  reached  my  ears  ;  and  I  now  de- 
clare, that  all  thofe  who  go  to  vifit  the  houfe  of  my 
friend  Abraham  fhall  not  be  ablolved  of  their  fins, 
if  they  do  not  fir(t  reverence  you,  and  celebrate  on 
you  the  holy  Sacrifice,  which  I  have  enjoined  my 
people  through  the  mouth  of  my  prophet  Maho- 
met !   Love  God  !   Pray  ]   Give  Alms  1" 

After  this  fermon  the  people  ialute  the  Moun- 
tain, and  depart. 


LETTER    XXXII. 


I 


* 
:N   my  laft   letters  I  endeavoured   to  give 
you  an  account  of  the  Turkifh  government,  laws, 


FREQUENT  BROILS  AT  ALEPPO.      195 

and  conftitution  in  general,  fo  far  as  I  was  able  to 
collecl:  information  on  the  fubjjft.  I  will  now 
proceed  to  a  deicription  of  thoie  particular  parts 
of  that  vaft.  empire  through  which  I  had  occafion 
to  travel. 

During  ray  flay  at  Aleppo,  I  experienced  much 
politeneis  and  hofpitality  from  the  European  gen- 
try relident  there,    and  particularly  from  Mr.  , 

at  whole  houfe  I  entirely  refided  ;  and  as  the 
Franks  live  on  a  very  good  footing  with  each  other, 
the  time  paffod  lo  agreeably,  that  were  it  not  for 
ri  that  within,"  I  fhould  have  been  happy  enough 
•> — We  rode  out  occasionally,  fometimefi  hunting, 
fomtuimes  merely  for  the  ride  lc;ke.  Sometimes 
with  an  intelligent  native  whom  I  got  to  walk  with 
me,  or  with  iome  of  the  Franks,  I  walked  about 
ihe  town,  in  order  to  amufe  away  the  time  and  lee 
what  was  going  forward,  notwithftanding  the  cry 
of  «  Frangi  Cucu  1"  or  ;;  Cuckold  Fiank  ["  which 
frequently  followed  us  for  the  length  of  a  ftreet. 
Sometimes  we  went  of  evenings  to  fome  of  the 
outlets,  where  preperation  was  made  for  our  recep- 
tion by  fervants,  previoufly  difpatched  for  the 
purpofe,  and  there  regaled  with  coffee,  wine, 
fruits,   &c. 

The  fir  ft  day  we  went  on  a  party  of  the  laft  men- 
tioned kind,  Mrs.  did  us  the  honour  to  ac- 
company us  :  tne  place  appointed  was  in  a  range  of 
beautiful  rural  gardens  that  lie  along  the  fide  of  a 
river;  where  the  well  cultivated  earth  teeming  with 
a  vail  abundance  of  the  belt  efculent  plants,  flow- 
ers, flowering  fhrubs  and  fruit-trees,  afforded  a  moft 
delicious  regale  to  the  ienfes  ;  and  the  plane,  the 
willow,  the  afh,  the  pomegranate,  and  a  variety  of 
other  trees,  cluttered  together  in  aimoft  impervious 
thickets,  yielded  a  delightful  fliady  retreat  fiom 
the  piercing  rays  of  the  lun.  It  was  on  this  occa- 
fion that  1  got  the  firft  fpecimen  of  Turkiih  illibe- 
rally,  which,   as  I  was  entirely  unprepared  for  it 


196     FREQUENT  BR&ILS  AT  ALEPPO. 

confounded  me,  and  nearly  deprived  me  of  temper 
and  o^  prudence.      As  we  walked  along,  1  cblerved 

ievei  2I  Turks  addrefling  themfelves  to  Mrs. 

and  me,  who  walked  arm  in  arm,  and  (peaking 
with  a  loudnef6  of  voice,  contortion  of  countenance, 
and  violence  of  gefticulation,  attended  with  a  dap- 
pling of  hands,  which,  though  1  dsd  not  underftand 
their  language,  I  could  plainly  peiceive  carried  the 
appearance   of  a    menace  or  inlult.      I  was  at  a  lols 

what  to  think  of  it  ;    Mrs.  : —  blufhed.   and 

teemed  much  huit :  Mr. and  the  other  gen- 
tlemen were  filent,  and  betrayed  not  the  leaft  maik 
rt  emotion  o'  refentrnent,  At  length,  when  we  got 
from  them,    I  ;>f*ud  what  it  meant  ?    and   was  told,. 

that  it   \va,  all  aimed  .»'  Mrs.  - — .  or  at  leaft 

occananed  by  l.ci  :  that,  bigoted  n>  lUe  cuftoms  of 
their  own  country,  and  utterly  i^noiant  of  thofe 
of  any  other,  'hoy  were  aife&ed  wtth  great  indigna- 
tion at  her  drefs,  oecaHonal  derangement  of  her 
veii,  and,  above  all,  at  the  {hameiefs  ar.d  un pardon- 
ably wicked  circumftance  of  a  woman  walking  fa 
openly   and    familiarly    in    the  company  of   men.— - 

Talking  of  this  affair  afterwards  with  Mr.  j 

the  lady's  hufb-and,  he  affured  me.  that  there  was 
not  an  opprobrious  and  infamous  epithet  which  the 
vulgar  ingenuity  of  the  brighreft  quean  in  Billings- 
gate could  ihink.of,  that  they  had  not  huddled  up- 
on us.  I  was  beyond  meafure  aftonilhed  at  the 
coolnefs  with  which  he  bore  it,  and  laid,  that  if  I 
had  underftood  what  they  had  (aid.  I  ihould  moft 
cenainly  have  been  unable  10  reflrrain  myieif,  and 
would  have  knocked  one  of  trvem  down  as  an  ex- 
ample to  the  reft.  Had  you  done  fo,  returned  he, 
you  would  certainly  have  repented  it  :  for,  if  you 
eiciped  being  ftoned,  or  put  to  death  upon  the 
fpo:,  the  legal  pun  i  foment  for  an  infidel  finking  a 
truj  believer,  you  could  not  efcape  ;  and  probably 
we,  and  all  the  Franks  in  the  city,  would  (offer  for 
it :   it  would  at  all  events  cauie  a  dreau'i  ui  con  vulftou 


FREQUENT  BROILS  AT  ALEPPO.     197 

in  the  place,  and  you  would  yourfelf  fall  a  facrifice 
to  it. 

Not  long  fince  I  was  convening  on  this  fubjecl: 
with  a  gemleman  of  my  acquaintance,  and  menti- 
oned it  with  fome  afpcrity,  as  anting  from  a  fpirit 
of  bigotry  peculiar  to  Mahomedans.  "My  good 
Sir,"  faid  he,  "  let  me  undeceive  you  !  the  very 
fame  would  be  done  in  mod  parts  of  Spain.  I  was 
one  day,"  continued  he,  M  walking  in  a  town  in 
Spain,  in  company  with  the  wife  of  a  gentleman 
who  re  Tided  there,  who  were  both  well  known, 
and  bore  the  moft  unexceptionable  character.  See- 
ing mo  however  walking  with  her,  the  populace,  as 
we  pailed,  held  up  two  fingers  figruficantly,  and 
cried  to  her,  What  a  cuckold  is  your  hufbinri  !  and 
concluded  with   *  Todas  las  Inglefis  Ion  putas,'   or, 

w  All    Englifti   women    are  s."      He  added, 

"  that  he  was  even  in  Cadiz,  where  commercial  in- 
tercourfe  renders  them  rather  more  liberal  than  in 
other  part  of  the  country,  frequently  ■Bcoftea  by 
little  children  themfelves,  with  '  Crees  in  Dios  ?' 
Do  you  believe  in  God  ?  and  fometimes  forming  a 
crofs  with  the  thumb  of  the  light  hand  and  the 
forefinger,  *  Crees  en  efte  ?  Crees  en  efhe  ?  No  ! 
No!  Ahjudio!  Moro  !  Barbaro  !  Bruto  !  Pro- 
teftante  !  Puerco  !  Voia  al  los  Infernos  !  •'  In 
Englifh — Do  you  believe  in  this  ?  Do  you  believe 
in  this  ?  No  !  No  !  Ah  Jew  !  Moor  !  Burbarfan  \ 
ProteRant  !    Hog  !    Go  to  Hell  !  !" 

So  much  for  human  beneficience  and  charity, 
under  the  follering  aufpices  of  religion  ! 

The  houfe  of  Mr.    ,   where  I  was  fo  hof- 

pitably  lodged,  was  a  magnificent  edifice,  built  in 
ail  the  fulnefs  of  Eaftern  grandfur  and  luxury,  and 
furnifhed  with  all  the  fplendour  and  (late  of  Tur- 
key, united  with  the  tafte  and  opulence  of  Great 
Britain.  It  was  indeed  a  houfe  in  which  voluptu- 
oufneft  itfelf  might  fit  down  with  fatisfaftion — The 
mod  unaffected   hofpitality   aed  generous    benevo- 

R  2 


igS     FREQUENT  BROILS  AT  ALEPPO. 

lence  fpread  the  board,  and  politenefs  and  affability 
prefided  over  all.     Never   fhall  1    forget  it — never 
fhall  I  think  of  it  without  gratitude  and   eftcem. 
A  gentleman  of  the  opulence  and  conlequence  of 

Mr. ,  wiih  a  houle  fuch  as  I  have  described, 

and  a  dipohtion  tofocial  enjoyment,  was  not,  you 
will  conclude,  without  a  relort  of  company  and 
friends  ;  in  truth,  he  had  friends  even  among  the 
better  fort  of  Turks.  Parties  of«  pleaiure  had  no  in- 
tcrmifTion  while  I  was  there  ;  and  as  the  ladies  of 
Europe  or  of  European  extraction  in  that  countiy 
are  highly  accompliihed,  fpeak  many  languages,  are 
indefatigable  in  their  efforts  to  pleafe,  and  receive 
ftrangers  from  Europe  with  a  joy  and  fatisfaftion 
not  to  be  described,  Aleppo  would  have  been  ts» 
me  an  Elyfium,  if  the  pleafures  of  the  place  did  not 
from  the  beginning  fufTer  diminution  from  my  own 
painful  fenfations,  which  were  aggravated  at  laft  by 
an  incident  that  arofe  from  my  intercourfe  there — 
of  whicrafcore  hereafter. 

While  1  lemained  at  Aleppo,  I  walked  as  I  be- 
fore told  you,  frequently  about  the  ftreets  ;  and  I 
think  I  never  was  witnefs  to  fo  many  broils  in  all 
my  life  put  together,  as  I  was  in  my  wanderings 
there — Not  a  time  I  went  out  that  I  did  not  obferve 
one,  two,  three,  and  fometimes  half  a  dozen  or  more, 
They  have  nothing  terrible  in  them  however,  and, 
we%e  it  not  extremely  difgufling  to  fee  men  fcold, 
flfl(M  be  very  entertaining  ;  for  I  will  venture  to 
lay  that  a  (licet  battle  "  a  la  Turque"  is  one  of  the 
mod  ludicrous  exhibitions  in  the  world.  The  par- 
ties approach  to  each  other,  and  retreat  mutually, 
as  the  aft'on  of  the  one  gives  hopes  to  the  other  of 
vi&ory,  lifting  their  hinds,  and  flourifhing  them  in 
the  iir,  as  if  ready  to  flrike  every  moment,  grinning, 
and  gnafhing  their  teeth,  while  their  beard  and 
whifkers  befprent  with  the  fpume  of  their  mouths, 
and  wagging  with  the  quick  motion  of  their  lips 
and  ghallly   contortions  of  their  jaws,  prefent  the 


FREQUENT  BROILS  AT  ALEPPO.     199 

moil  ridiculous  fpechcle  imaginable.  They  remind- 
ed me  at  the  time  of  a  verfe  in  an  old  Engiifti  baU 
lad:— 

'Tis  merry  in  the  half, 

When  beards  wag  all. 

Nothing,  in  fact,  can  exceed  the  extravagance  of 
their  gefture:  the  vehement,  loudnefs  of  their  voice, 
or  the  whimfical  diftortions  of  their  countenances, 
in  which  are  difplayed  iometimes  the  quickeft  vicif- 
fitudes  of  fear  and  fury,  and  fcmetimes  the  mod 
laughable  combination  of  both.  All  this  time, 
hoACVer,  not  a  fingle  blow  is  actually  (truck  ;  but 
they  compenfate  for  the  want  of  bodily  prowels  by 
the  exercife  of  the  t©ngue,  denouncing  vengeance 
agiinft  each  other,  threatening  in  Plant  demolition, 
Lvilhing  every  bitter  reproach,  every  filthy  epithet, 
and  every  horrible  imprecation  that  they  can  think 
of,  and  both  boafling  occafionally  of  their  patience 
and  forbearance,  which  fortunately  enabled  them  to 
refrain  from  annihilating  their  adverl-iry.  At  hft 
the  fray  gradually  decays  :  exhaufted  wTth  fatigue, 
and  half  choaked  with  dud  and  vociferation,  they 
retreat  gradually  backwards  to  their  own  doors  ; 
where  lumming  up  all  their  malignity  into  a  mod 
horrid  execration,  they  part  for  the  time,  and  retire 
to  vaunt  in  empty  threat,  and  growl  away  their  rage, 
in  the  recefles  of  their  haram. 

Yet  thole  people  are  found  terrible  in  battle  by 
the  Chii(l:an  troops  that  have  from  time  to  time 
been  of)po:ed  to  them  :  here,  if  proof  be  wanting 
of  the  eflefts  of  religion  on  the  human  mind,  is  an 
incontrovertable  one  of  its  powerful  operations. 
Under  the  influence  of  their  faith,  which  tells 
them  that  they  go  to  Paradile  inftantly  if  killed  in 
battle  with  Infidels,  they  perform  prodigies  of  va- 
lour fighting  againft  Chrift.ans;  while,  ioibidden 
by  that  faith  to  imbrue  their  hands  in  the  blood  of 
a  true  believer,  their  paiTions  have  been  gradually 
brought  under  the  dominion  of  theii  religion,  till 


200        MANNERS  OF  THE  TURKS. 

that  which  at  full  W3S  faith  at  Uft  becomes  habit, 
and  the  appropriate  energy  and  courage  of  the  man 
has  funk,  into  the  degrading  and  emafculant  efforts 
of  the  woman. 

The  pra&ice  of  fighting,  or  perfonal  confli&s 
between  individuals  of  the  fame  focicty,  feems  to 
have  been  condemned  by  the  universal  confent  of 
all  leligions.  The  Gentoos,  as  well  as  all  the  other 
fe&s  of  the  various  parts  of  the  Ealt  through  which 
I  have  travelled,  give  vent  to  their  pafiion  in  near- 
ly the  fame  manner  as  the  Turks.  The  Chriftians 
too  are  mofl  ftri£lly  forbidden  to  ftrike  one  another 
by  the  great  Author  of  their  faith  :  but  it  is  their 
good  fortune,  that  they  not  oYily  have  the  beft  reli- 
gion in  the  woild  for  their  guidance,  but  that  they 
are  the  only  people  in  the  world  who  claim  exemp- 
tion Irom  the  penalties  of  that  religion,  and  think 
themfclves  wronged  and  their  perlonal  rights  in- 
fringed, if  they  are  refuted  the  privilege  of  break- 
ing through  its  rules  whenever  thole  rules  are  at 
variance  with  their  convenience. 

Be  it  your  care,  my  dear  child,  to  fortify  your 
mind  with  the  fpirit  of  true  religion  and  found 
morality,  and  let  your  practice  in  life  be  ever  guid- 
ed by  their  precepts. 


LETTER    XXXIII. 


T, 


HE  avidity  with  which  human  crea- 
tures fearch  for  fomething  to  recreate  the  mind  and 
keep  it  in  exeicife,  is  of  itfelf  a  convincing  proof 
of  the  natural  att-.vity  of  our  intellectual  faculties, 
and  fnews  that,  like  the  different  parts  of  the  bo- 
dy, they  were  given  by  Providence  to  be  called 
fnto  effort  and  improved  by  practice,     As  they  who 


MANNERS  OF  THE  TURKS.        201 

by  the  favours  of  opulence  are  exempted  from  the 
necefiity  of  attual  bodily  labour,  are  obliged  to  have 
rccourfe  to  artificial  labour  called  exercile  ;  fo  they 
who  have  the  misfortune  to  be  precluded  from  the 
employment  of  the  mind  by  bud  net's,  are  obliged 
to  feek  mental  exercife  in  a  variety  of  expedients, 
fome  of  which  are  criminal,  fome  foolifh,  and  fome 
good  for  nothing  or  indifferent.  Cards,  dice,  and 
games  of  chance  are  (according  to  the  extent  to 
which  they  are  carried)  of  the  two  former — talc 
and  novel-reading  of  the  two  latter.  Thofe  how- 
ever ferve  to  occupy  the  vacant  hours  of  all  the 
idle  and  unemployed,  And  when  letters  deny 
their  friendly  aid,  we  find  among  curfelves  the  de- 
ficiency fupplied  from  the  lefs  ample  refources  of 
the  memory  ;  arid  (lory- telling,  love  tales,  fairy 
tales,  and-  goblin  and  ghqft  adventures,  are  recited 
round  the  villager's  fire  or  the  kitchen  bearth  in 
as  great  numbers,  with  as  much  ingenuity,  and  to 
as  great  efrV£V,  as  they  are  to  be  found  written  in 
the  innumerable  volumes  on  the  (helves  of  our  cir- 
cuhting  libraries. 

In  Turkey,  where  the  art  of  printing  has  not  yet 
been  known,  were  the  circulation  of  literary  pro- 
ductions is  chained  down  within  the  narrow  compafs 
of  manu'feript,  and  where  therefore  the  efforts  of 
genius  are  rep  retted  by  diicouragement,  the  bufinefs 
of  ftory-telling  makes  in  itfelfa  profefiion,  which, 
srs  it  is  acquired  by  ft  jdy  and  p'oiecuted  with  art, 
is  followed  with  cohftde'rabty  profit. 

One  day  a  friend  (a  French  gentleman)  who  ef- 
corted  me  through  the  town  called  to  diaw  me  out 
with  him  for  a  walk  ;  he  laid  he  wilhcd  to  fhew  me 
Jome  of  the  caravanferas.  obterving  that  he  thought 
I  fhould  be  entertained  with  a  view  of  them.  I 
agreed  to  go  :  and  he  brought  me  to  two,  which  af- 
ter he  had  fnewn  to  me  and  explained  their  princi- 
ple, police,  and  e!  quette,  I  could  not  help  admi- 
ring and  approving.     To    both  tirefe  were  attached 


202        MANNERS  OF  THE  TURKS. 

eating-houfes  and  coffee-houfes,  and  every  appen- 
dage that  could  render  them  convenient  and  com- 
fortable. As  we  were  about  leaving  the  laft  I 
obferved  my  friend  (lop  and  liflen  attentively. 
*'  Come  hither,"  faid  he,  after  a  minute's  pau;c — 
*;  come  into  this  coffee-houfe,  here  is  ibme thing 
going  foj  ward  that  may  amule   you." 

We  accordingly  entered  the  coffee-houfe,  where 
we  fa,w  a  number  of  people,  fome  ieated  in  the  Tur- 
kifh  fafhion,  iome  on  low  (tools,  and  fome  {land- 
ing ;  and  in  the  middle  a  man  walking  to  and  fro, 
(peaking  in  an  audible  voice,  (onetimes  (lowly, 
iomeiiti.es  with  rar  i::iiy,  varying  occasion- 

ally with  all  the  inflections  of  a  c  onuing  lenfe, 

I  could  not  i  ud    him,   bui  lie    feemefi  to  me 

to  (peak  with  t;  good  emphafis  and  good  d: 
tion  :"  his  a£t;on  was  eafy  to  him,  though  expref- 
fiveand  empha'.ical  y  and  his  countenance  ex1  :  ited 
ilrong  marks  of  elcq.ient  expreflion.  I  could  not 
help  (taring  with  ailoniihment  at  a  fcene  fo  new  tcr 
me,  and  felt  great  approbation  of  the  tones  and 
manner  of  this  extraordinary  orator,  though  I  could 
not  underftand  a  hnole  word  he  (aid.  He  was  lift- 
ened  to  by  all  with  great  attention,  and  the  Turks 
(albeit  not  uied  to  the  laughing  mood)  frequently 
betrayed  ftrong  iymptoms  of  ritibility  :  but  in  the 
height  and  torrent  of  his  fpeech  he  broke  fuddenly 
off,  Icamoered  out  of  the  door  and  diiappeard.  I  let 
it  down  that  he  was  a  maniac  or  lunatic  of  an  inge- 
nious kind,  and  was  for  going  away.  "  Stay,"  lays 
my  friend,  "reft  where  you  are  for  a  few  minutes, 
let  us  hear  further." 

The  orator  had  icarcely  been  gone  three  minutes 
when  the  room  was  liiied  with  the  buzz  of  conver- 
fation,  a  word  of  which  I  could  not  under(tand9 
but  which  my  guide  iiitened  to  very  attentively. 
At  length  the  buzz  be^an  to  grow  loud,  and  loon 
jncfeaU  d  into  clamour  ;  when  a  lcene  enlued  of  io 
very    iudncious  a  kind  as  forced   me  to   cr2m  my 


MANNERS  OF  THE  TURKS.       20 


j 


nandkerchief  into  my  mouth  to  fupprefs  a  laugh,  or 
at  lead  fo  to  Rifle  it  as  to  avoid  obfervation.  la 
fhort,  they  were  difputing  violently,  and  the  beards 
were,  as  I  once  before  mentioned  to  you,  all" 
wagging.  I  became  more  convulied  3vith  mirth  ; 
and  my  friend  feeing  that  I  was  likely  to  give  of- 
fence, took  me  under  the  arm  and  hurried  me  out 
of  the  coffee-houie  :  we  retired  into  a  porch  in  the 
caravanfeia,  where  i  gave  vent  to  my  fupprcfled 
laughter  till  my  fides  were  fore  and  my  eyes  ran 
tears. 

"  In  the  name  of  God,  my  friend  !"  faid  I,  "  tell 
me  what  is  the  meaning  of  all  that  extravagant  fccne 
to  which  we  have  jufl  now  been  witnefs  :  who  is 
that  madman  that  lpoke  lo  much  ?  and  why  did 
they  all  quarrel  after  he  went  away  ?" 

"  Come,  come,"  faid  he,  "  let  us  retire  to  my 
houfe,  and  I  will  there  explain  the  whole  of  it  te 
you,   from  begining  to  ending." 

I  accordingly  accompanied  him  home,  where  we 
found  a  very  gay  circle  affembled,  to  whom  he  de- 
fcribed  my  aftonifhment  ;  recounting  my  immode- 
rate laughter,  till  they  all  laughed  very  nearly  as  im- 
moderately as  myfelf.  "  You  muft  know,"  faid 
he,  addrefling  himfelf  to  me,  "  that  he  whom 
you  took  to  be  a  madman,  is  one  of  the  moft  cele- 
brated compoiers  and  tellers  of  (tories  in  Afia,  and 
only  wants  the  aid  of  printing  to  he  perhaps  as  emi- 
nent in  reputation  for  making  Contes,  as  Mar- 
montei  or  Madame  D'Anois.  As  we  paffi  i  ah  ng 
I  heard  his  vo'ce,  and,  knowing  it,  relolved  to  let 
you  fee  him,  and  bronght  you  in  for  the  purpofe. 
lie  was  enteitaining  the  company  with  a  very  curi- 
ous, intereftin'g,  and  comical  (lory  ;  the  .bjsctof 
which*  was  avarice  :  the  hero  a  rriiier  of  the  name 
of  CafTem.  His  milery  and  avarice  are  represented 
in  it  as  bringing  him  into  a  variety  of  fcrapes,  which 
wafte  his  wealth  ;  and  his  character  is  diaWn.with 
fuch  ftrenglh  of  colouring,  ana  marked   whh'-'fUch' 


O04       MANNERS  OF  THE  TURKS. 

grotefque  lines  of  humour — he  related  it  moreover 
with  lo  much  wit,  in  iuch  admirable  language,  and 
embellifhed  and  enforced  it  with  (uch  appropriate 
a£bon,  utterance,  and  emphafis — that  it  nvited,  as 
you  faw,  the  attention  of  all  his  auditors,  and  ex- 
torted laughter  even  from  Tur.kifh  gravity," 

"  But  how  came  he  to  break  oft;  i'o  iuddenly  ?." 
faid  I. 

<s  That.,"  returned  my  friend,  u  is  a  part  of  the 
art  of  his  profeftion,  without  which  he  could  not 
live  ;  juft  as  he  gets  to  a  mod  interefting  part  of 
the  ftoiy,  when  he  has  wound  the  imagination  of 
his  auditors  up  to  the  higheft  climax  of  expectation, 
he  purpoiely  breaks  oft  to  make  them  eager  for  the 
reft,  lie  is  lure  to  have  them  ail  next  cay,  uiih 
additional  numbers  who  come  on  their  lepoit,  and 
l)e  makes  his  terms  to  fimfh  the  ftory." 

*'  Why. then,"  interrupted  I,  "  why  did  they'who 
remained  behind  fall  dilputing  ?" 

"  That  1  will  expiate  to  you,'*  faid  he.     Jufl  as 

he   broke    oft,   Call  m    the  miller  'who,  as  far    as  I 

heard,   teems  as  well   drawn   as  Molieie's   Avars) 

having  already  fuftertd  a    thoutand    whim  deal    mil- 
ts / 

fortunes  and  dilapidations  ol  fortune,  is  biought  be- 
fore the  cadi  for  digging  in  his  garden,  on  the  pre- 
emption tha;  he  was  digging  foi  tiealure.  As  loon 
as  the  btftorian  was  gone,  they  full  applauded  him, 
and  then  begin  so  diicuts  his  {lory — wh:ch  they 
one  ana  all  agreed  in  prailing  highly  and  when 
they  came  to  talk  oi  i  he  utobable  iffue  of  the  leq.iel 
of  it,  there  were  almoft  as  many  opinions  as  there 
were  men  in  company  ;  each  maintained  his  own, 
and  they  went  lo  loggei heads  as  you  law  about  it — 
when  the  chance  is  a  thouland  lo  one,  that  not  one 
of  them  was  neai  the  maik.  One  in  paiticular.  lur- 
miled  that  Caftem  woulo  be  married  to  the  cadi's 
daughter  J  which  gave  great  offence  to  lome,  and 
rouled  another  ol  the  company  to  declare,  that  he 
was  well    afluitd    in    his    couioiei.ee    that    C  after* 


MANNERS  OF  THE  TURKS.        205 

would    be    brought   to   the   baftinado  or   the  flake, 
or  elfe  hanged,   in  the  fequel." 

44  And  is  it  poflible,"  laid  I,  "  that  a  group  of 
twenty  or  thirty  rational  beings  can  be  lo  far  bereft 
of  all  common  fen  lie,  as  to  dilpute  upon  the  refult 
of  a  contigency,  which  ablolutely  depends  on  the 
aibitrary  fancy  of  an  acknowledged  fabricator  of 
falfehoods?" 

"  C'ejl  yrai,  Monfieur  ?  and  thereby  they  de- 
mon ftrate  the  power  of  the  poet  (for  poet  we  may 
call  him)  ;  and  entrt  nous,  I  doubt  whether  ft  is  not 
more  rational,  as  wrell  as  more  fair,  to  dilpute  what 
the  denouement  ought  to  be  before  than  after  the  in- 
ventor of  the  piece  has  diipoled  of  it.  as  is  the 
practice  with  us.  When  he  has  once  finifhed  his 
fable,  you  will  find  them  ail  content,  and  the  voice 
of  ciiticifm  filent.  Now  in  France  or  England, 
our  critics  lie  perdue,  in  orc.cr  to  attack  the  poet, 
let  him  iimth  hi  perfoimance  how  he  may.  But 
you  will  recollect,  Monfieur,  that  in  Tv\ key  ciiti- 
cifm is  the  honed  fpotitaneottfi  iffue  of  the  heart, 
and  with  us  is  a  "lade,  where  fomcthnes  lucre,  lotne- 
times  vanity,  but  <  i'tener  than  both,  envy  and«na- 
lice  direct  the  decifion,  and  diipolc  to  cav.f  and 
cenlure. 

"  But  we  will  go  again  to-morrow,"  continued 
he,  i;  prcb.tbly  he  w;,i  be  there  to  conclude  or  pro- 
ceed further  v  itory  ;"  I  agreed  to  this  and 
we  paried. 

On  the  next  dn'  we  went,  and  not  feeing 
orator  in  his  place,  lounged  about  the  carav^r. (m, 
and  going  to  another  coffee-houfe  found  him  de- 
ming  with  all  his  might,  My  fncud  told  me 
that  the  ftoty  he  was  now  on  was  quite  different 
from  the  former  :    .  cd  his  motions 

fo  effectually  that  we  got  the  conclusion  of  i.  1 
ftory  of  Caffetn,  which  completely  uilappcnted 
the  ptognoftics  of  tne  two  cot  fl  ct:ng  Turkifh 
critics;  for  CaiTcm  was  neither  bakinadoed.  fiuksd, 

S 


2o6        MANNERS  OF  THE  TURKS, 

or  hanged,  nor  married  to  the  cadi's  daughter,  hut 
lived  to  he  that  extreme  avarice  was  folly  ;  and  to 
be  fenfible  that  to  make  the  pioper.ule  of  the  goods 
of  this  life  is  to  er.joy  them. 


LETTER    XXXIV. 


M 


-Y  laft  let'er  has  fhewn  you,  that  the 
conceptions  of  genius,  though  they  may  want  the 
aid  ©f  the  preis  to  bring  them  in  full  and  perfeft 
diiclorure  to  the  world,  will  yet  burft  through  their 
bounds,  and  find  fome  means  of  communication 
with  mankind  ;  for  though  the  art  of  printing  he 
unknown  in  Turkey,  the  emanations  of  (uperior 
intellect  and  fancy  find  their  way  to  the  general  ear 
through  the  medium  of  public  declamation  in  cof- 
fee-houles.  This  letter  will  leive  to  {hew  you  that 
malverfation  in  office,  public  delinquency,  and  all 
thole  ctimes  of  i he  great,  which  with  us  ate  cog* 
nizable  by  no  tribunal  but  that  of  the  purlic  piels, 
are    not   altogether  lo  exempt  from  the  d  ex- 

poiure  ol  the  fatirift  in  Turkey,  as  the  want  or 
that  great  palladium  of  freedom  would  oiipoie  us 
to  believe  ;  and  that,  incredible  as  it  mav  appear, 
the  magiftrates  are  held  up  to  lidiculc  in  public 
exhibition,  htiriied  with  a!l  the  extravagant  vul- 
garity of  coarie  humour  and  un^oiiihed  wit,  and 
cxpofed  with  ail  the  biuer  exaggerations  pi  enven- 
omed geniu.-. 

1  he  French  gentleman  whom  I  mentined  to  you 
in  my  laft,  as  having  procured  me  that  plea-lane 
repaft  at  the  coftce-houie,  called  on  nc  a  morning 
or  two  after  that,  and  leminded  me  how  higi.iy  1 
feemed  to  be  entertained:  laid,  there  weie  often 
to  be  iccn,   by  walking  about  and  going  into  public 


MANNERS  OF  THE  TURKS.        207 

s,  a  variety  of  things,  which  however  wovth- 
fels  and  unentertainir.g  in  themlelves,  might,  froiq 
the  novelty  of  their  appearance,  and  their  urilike- 
iinefs  to  any  thing  feen  in  Europe,  ferve  either  to 
•divert  by  their  oddity,  or  promote  the  conception 
•of  new  ideas  in  the  mind  :  he  therefore  recom- 
mended it  10  me,  with  a!!  the  zeal  of  a  perfon  who 
look  an  interest  in  my  happinefs,  to  keep  on  my 
legs  and  in  the  (beets  while  I  lemained  at   Aleppo. 

You  will  conclude  that  I  readdy  complied,  and 
we  tallied  out  directly  in  quell  of  adventure.  We 
imocv  ;!~  erefore,   to  one  of    the  before  menti- 

oned coltee-i'.Oiies,-  wheie,  as  my  rVrenct  ablerved 
to  me,  though  tiicre  were  no  people  of  gre^t  rank, 
there  was  generally  lomething  to  afford  contempla- 
tion or  -amulement  ;  and  where,  if  nothing  ell® 
occurred,  the  motley  appearance  of  the  company 
was  tufricient  to  excite  a  variety  of  whimficai  emo- 
tions, and  fuggeft  numberiefs  ludicrous  images  to 
the  imagination  of  an?  Englifh  or  French  man. 
As  there  was  no  orator  at  work  declaiming,  I  had 
time  to  indulge  myfelf  with  a  more  accurate  view 
than  I  had  before  taken  of  the  group  that  lurround- 
ed  us  :  and  lurely  never  was  ponderous  gravity 
more  ludicrouilv,  or  in  more  various  forms  depiCted 
by  any  caricaturift  in  the  world. — Here  it  was  to  be 
leen,  in  ail  its  ihadings,  from  the  ielf-important 
nod  of  lerious  cogitation,  down  to  the  ioporihe 
alpett  of  t\olid  ftupidity.  Not  a  rnufcle  was  mo- 
ved Hi  way  of  mirth,  not  a  facj  dilgraced  wich  a 
imile,  and  I  could  not  help  thinking  all  the  time, 
mat  if  every  nation  of  the  earth  was  to  take  fome 
animal  for  its  inhgnia,  as  the  Btitiih  aflame  the 
lion,  and  the  Pruiiim  the  e;;g!e,  the  Turks  might 
be  divided  m  their  choice  becweea  the  appropriate 
claims  of  the  owl  and  the  als. 

Soon  after  we  entered,  a  band  of  what  they 
called  malic,  (truck  up  a  concert.  And  here  again 
the  notion  3  f  the  owl  and  the  als  ftruck    me  with 


208        MANNERS  OF  THE  TURKS. 

increafed  force,  as  peculiarly  prefixing  over  their 
mufic  :  for  no  other  combination  of  founds  that  I 
know  on  earth,  but  the  fcreeching  of  the  one.  and 
the  braying  of  the  other,  could  form  any  thing  to 
refemble  this  concert,  with  which  the  auditory 
fcemed  vauMy  pleaied,  though  I  was  obliged  to  be- 
take myfelf  to  flight,  in  order  to  get  relief  from 
the  torture  it  give  me.  The  Turks,  however,  as 
I  retreated,  honoured  me  with  a  few  remarks, 
which  as  1  did  not  understand,  I  could  not  pre- 
cifely  feel  ;  my  friend  however  told  me,  thev  were 
to  the  efle£t  that  we  were  Frangi  Dumus  (Frank 
Hog),  and  had  no  more  ear  than  that  filthy  ani- 
mal for  nunc. 

Come,  laid  my  friend,  don't  be  diicoura^ed  !  — 
But  the  nxufic — the  m^nc  !  interrupted  I. — Well 
then,  laid  he,  the  r^uhc,  or  rather  the  founds  were 
execrable  to  be  fure  ;  they  have  at  leaft  ferved  to 
blilh  this  certainty,  that  there  is  nothing,  how- 
cv-jr  dilcoidant  or  det-ftable,  which  habit  will  not 
reconcile  us  to.  Doubt  not,  laid  he,  that  the  belt 
ce  of  Handel  or  Correll'.  performed  by  i  he  belt 
bar*!  in  Rome,  would  appear  s  to  !hem, 

as  treir  concert  did  to  us. 

~    vifued  many  ceiFee-hc.ifes    in  the  courfe  of 

.  Y.   in  every  one   of  which    we   found    fome- 

::g  to  divert  or  dilguft  us  ;     at   length   as  we  en- 

teied  one,    my  fi.ualy  guide   turning    to   me  with 

iajtUfa&on    in    his   ccuivewar.ce,     iriid    4C    Here    is 

fenu  thing  about  to  go  forward   that 

Ltd"  than  the  concert  of  mulic.'*'  What  is  it 
fauj  I  ?  A  drama,  returned  he  ;  a  drama,  to  yfU 
mod  certainly  of  a  new  and  extraordinary  kind  ; 
and  I  dp  <■  iiuif*  \na  liraf  fo  zealous  am  I  to  pic  core 
you  entertainmet.t,  1  won  id  rarhcr  than  a  c  u  l« 
of  louisNyou  could  underfLand  what  rs  gr>«1 
ward  :  your  hearty  mirth  and  la>:ghier,  added 
arc  u.fficicnt    to   put    one    in  kpirits.      H  d;» 

recteu  my  attention  to  a  fellow  who  wss  bufily  \ 


MANNERS  OF  THE  TURKS.        209 

ployed  in  ere&ing  a  ilage,  which  he  accomplifhcd 
in  a  time  incredibly  (hort.  The  light  of  the  iun 
was  completely  excluded,  and  a  puppet  fhew  com- 
menced, which  gave  great  delight  t*  all  the  audi- 
ence, and  ignorant  as  1  was  of  the  language,  plsa- 
led  me  very  much. 

I  was  altonifhed  when  informed  that  one  man 
oniy  {poke  for  all  the  perfonages  of  :he  drama,  for 
lo  artfully  did  he  change  his  tone  of  voice,  that  I 
could  have  fworn  there  had  been  as  many  peopl« 
to  {peak,  as  there  were  chaiacters  in  the  piece. 
The  images  were  not  a&ually  puppets,  commonly 
£0  called,  but  fhadows  done  in  the.  manner  of  Al- 
ley's Ombres  Chinoifes.  They  were,  however,  far 
inferior  to  his  in  execution  and  management, 
thuugh  the  dijlogue  and  incident  evidently  appear- 
ed even  10  me,  10  be  executed  with  a  degree  of  the 
vis  comica  far  iuperior  to  any  1  ever  (aw  in  a  thing 
of  the  kind  in  Europe  ;  indeed  to  perfect  was  the 
whole,  that  though  I  knew  not  a  word  of  the  lan- 
guage, 1  comprehended  clearly  the  plan  of  the 
piece,  and  many  of  the  Ihokes  of  humour  con- 
tained in  the  dialogues. — The  plan  was  obvioufly 
taker,  horn  a  ftory  which  1  have  read  in  fome  of  the 
Euflern  tales,  I  believe  the  Arabian  Nights  Enter- 
tainments, and  it  is  founded  on  the  Law  of  the 
counity,  that  a  man  may  repudiate  his  wife  twice, 
anu  take  her  back  again  ;  but  in  the  event  of  a 
ihrc  divorce,  cannor.  retake  her  to  his  marriage- 
ued.  unlets  ihe  be  previously  married  and  divorced 
by  anotner  man.  To  obviate  wh-ch,  hufbanus 
who  repent  having  divorced  their  wives  a  thiid 
lime,  employ  a  man  to  myrry  them,  and  re  (lore 
her  back  again  ;  and  he  who  does  this  office  is 
i  a  Hullah. —  In  the  piece  before  us,  however, 
the  L^dy  and  the  Hullah  1  ke  each  other  lo  wen, 
hey  jj.^  not  to  leparale  ;  the  hufbjnd  brings 
them  both  before  the  cadi  to  enforce  a  feparation  ; 
and  the  fcene  before  the  ca-ji  was  as  iudiciouSj  and 

S   2. 


«10  N-NER-3  OF  THE  TURKS. 

"as  keen  a  f?tire  upon    thofe   magistrates  as  can  well 
be  conceived.    though  of  the  Tow  kind. 

The  piece  was  introduced    with  a  grand   nuptial 
proccfiion,  if  which  the  maftcr  diiplaycd  the  pow- 
ers of  his  voice   bv  uttering   a  varietv  of  the    troll: 
oppofite  tores   in   the    whole    gamut  of  the  human 
voice  ;   fometimes   fper-king,    fometimes    (queaking 
like  a    huit  child,     fometimes  hazzung   as  a   man,  a 
woman,   or  a    child  ;     lometirses    neighing    like   a 
horfe,   and    fometimes   interfpeifing    it    with    other 
fvich  founds  as  commonly  occur  in  crowds,   in  fuch 
a  manner  as  aftonifheJ  me  :    while  the  concomitant 
aftion    of    the    images,   grotefque   beyond    meafure, 
kept' up  the  lairgh  ;    hories    k'eking    and  throwing 
their  riders,   ailes  biting  thole  near  them,  and  kick- 
ing thofe  behind  them,   who    retire  limpir  g    in  the 
moll  ridiculous  manner  :  while  their  great  Handing 
character  in  z\\    piece?,    Kara-ghusk    (the  fame  as 
our  Pufrch),    raifed    a    general    roar  of  obflreperous 
mirth  even  frosn    the    Turks,   with    his    whimfical 
action,   if  which  I  muft  fay   that,   though    noniefi- 
cal,   though  indecent,   and  fometimes   even  difgufl- 
ing,   it  was    on    the    whore   the  mod  finifhed  com- 
pofitr6n  of  low  ribaldry  and    fun     that    I    ever  be- 
hold. 

When  they  come  before  the  cadi,  he  is-  feated  in 
his  divan  of  juflice  ;  but  as  loon  as  the  complaint 
is  opened  and  anfwered,  he.  rifes  and  comes  for- 
ward between  the  contending  parries  :  here  he 
turrfs  to  one    and    den  h  a    terrific   tone  what 

he  has  to  fay,  while  the  err"her  puts  cafh  in  his  hand 
behind,  and  in  proper* ti^n  as  thr  feaih  is  counted  in, 
increases  the  terror  of  his  voice  ;  fte  irvn  pockets 
the  tnonev.     a-  \a  other,    irtd  de- 

mands what  he  hss  to  i  I  h    e  in    Ike   nvnner 

he  •  the    bnbes  from  his  ao>vr!aiy  and  p. 

it  in  an  op-  clre  pocke^   :    this  a!r.  ,  rj/licairon 

lads    i  ll    t..e    |  rre  |xfi  when, 

rng  a  great  groefr,  he  reti-res  on';  r.e  Hue  to  icck- 


MANNERS  OF  THE  TURKS.        211 

6f!  trie    money    of  each    from   a  pccket  he  has   on 
ei'::ier  fide,    one  caHed  plaintiff,    and  the  other  de- 
fendant >   when    balancing  them,    he  finds  plaintiff 
better  By   one    nfper   (or  three- halfpence)    than  de- 
fendant, and  pronounces  his  judgment  accordingly. 
The  defendant   appeals  to  the  b-.fi.2w  ;   they  go  be- 
fore him  :    Kara-ghuss    (Punch)    however,   takes 
the  defendant  afic!c,   and   in   a  dialogue,    which  my 
friend  allured  me    was   pointed,  witty,   ai*d  bitteily 
fatirical,  develops  to  him  the  whole  fyfcem  of  ma- 
gifhatical  injuilicc,  adviies  him  to  bi.^e  the  bafhaw, 
and  declaring  his  zeal  for  all  young  people    fond  of 
amorous  enjoyment    (which    he  is  at    forne  pains  to 
enlarge  upon  to    the  excels    of    indelicacy),     offers 
him  the  aid  of  his  purfe.      The  advice  is  followed  ; 
the  bribe  is  accep'ed  ;  the  cadi's  decree  is  uveried, 
and  himfelf  difgraced,    and   the  mcb    at  once  huffie 
him  and    bear    the  Hullah  home  to    his    bride  with 
clamours  of  joy.      Here  again  the  mailer  fhe wed  his 
extraordinary  powers,   giving    hot  only,     as  befc 
diilinft  and  oppofi'c  tones  of  voice,   but  huddlng  a 
number  of  different  founds  with    iuch  fkill    and  ra- 
pidity together,  that  it  Was  tea reefy  pcfhb-le  to  refill 
the  per!u.ifto:i    th::t  they  were    the    iffue    of  a  large 
and  tumultuous  crowd   of  men  and  animars.      With 
this"  extravagant  melingz  the  cuitain  dropped,    and 
the  pet forrrn nee  ended. 

Returning  home  we  converfed  together  on  ihc 
fubjeft  of  the  piece,  which  I  confets  I  coula  not  get 
Out  of  my  head  for  forne  time.  My  friend  explain- 
ed to  me,  as  well  as  he  c^uld  recoiled,  a  great  part 
of  the  dialogue,  and  iffbred  me,  that  the  freeuem  of 
fpeech  of  Monfteur  Kara-giiuss  had  from  time  to 
time  created  a  great  deal  of  uneahne:s,  not  only  to- 
private  offending  individuals,  but  ro  the  mugiftracy 
itfelf— -:hat  no  offender,  however  intrenched  behind 
power,  or  enfhiined  in  nnk,  couli  eicape  him — that 
bafhaws,  cjdis,  nay  the :  janiffr.  ici  ..i  -;n. elves,  *vere. 
often   Tirade  the  fport  or    rr.s  iury  ;  thai  he  was  not 


2  12        MANNERS  OF  THE  TURr.x 

more  retrained  in  tire  effufions  of  obfcenity  whitrt 
lie  uteied,  than  in  his  iatire  ;  t H ^ t  he  was  alw; 
well  teceivcd  and  applauded,  even  veneiated  (as  we 
venerate  the  liberty  of  the  pre.s^  as  a-  bold  teller  of 
trutn,  who  with  Utile  nulchief  does  a  graat  deal  of 
good,  and  often  loules  the  Lethajgjc  pubiic  mind  to 
a  ienle  of  public  dangers  and  injuiies.  He  adc. . 
that  in  lome  ca.es  the  in2gillrate.  had  been  obliged 
lo  intetfere  ;  and  tne  baiUaw  hiruicif  was  ieriou'dy 
.led  upon  at  times  to  nop  the  licentious  tongue  of 
ti-iis  champion  or  r \eedo-m,  Kaka-gk  u  jc 

"Well  then."  laid.  I.  "it  appeais  upon  the  whci.2 
that  Monfieur  Kara-ghuse  is  h  very  great  b'dLK- 
guatd,  but  a  very  witty,   and  a  vei\    honeii  on-.' 

';  You  have juft.  hit  it,"  laid  he  ;  "and  if  Mailer 
Kara-ghufe  was  to  take  iuch  liberties  in  France, 
Spain,  Poitugal,or  Germany;  all  his  wit  and  noneity 
vsouict  not  kve  hirn  irom  punuhment.  In  England 
you  do  not  want  hicr,  ;  every  man  there  is  a  Kaua- 
ghuse,   and  every   newipaper  a  puppet-fhew." 

"  And  yet."  returned  I,  •'  we  co::;pia:n  iadly  of 
want  of  libei  i  y  !" 

tl  That  is  natural, "  icturnec  my  fagrcious  French- 
man, "  peifectiy  natural.  Liberty  is  like  money  ; 
tne  nrtore,  we  ;ave  of  it,  the  more  covetous  we  grow." 
"  Very  true,  Monheur,"  laid  1,  pleaied  with  his 
compliment  to  car  happy  conflitution,  ana  to  cnncn 
his  oiiei  vatio::.  gwe  a  Latin  quotation,  which  when 
»  c:  ild  I  go;  out  of  Lillys  G».j-m:r.ar,  '•  Creicit  amor 
Qunami,  quan'.um  lpla  pccunia  cit-ie:'  ;"  andti.cit 
ciian^.ug  in;  mm  us-  for  huertas,  "  Crcfcit  amor  fy* 
beiU'.iSj  quan:um    i;>.a  Libertas  cre:c:;." 

"  "lis  very  well,  Monfieur.''  laid  he  ;  and  to 
cany    on    your  s'lunou,    may  we  not  -it  they 

q   :;  it   know  when  :hey   have  enough,,  are  as 
geroufl",     wrong    in.  trie  one   caie,    as    I 
fay  we  '  .    t    .  ate  in  the  oihei  -.n- 

ftliiJM  cpmn  of  th-j  want    of  liberty,  -ds 

me  of  the  coi£ce,-iK>u»re  oidLof  j  ...jiy  oijCUTeiOj  who, 


DISAGREEABLE  ADVENTURE.     213 

■wallowing  in  wealth,  loft  it  ail  in  the  wild  purfuit 
of  more. — I  hope  however  that  they  never  will, 
like  him,  lole  their  flock,  in  vain  endeavours  to  in- 
creafe  it." 


LETTER    XXXV. 


W 


7 

)/  HILE  I  was,  in  the  manner  I  have 
already  mentioned,  endeavouring  to  pals  away  the 
time  as  cheerfully  as  poffible,  till  a  caravan  was  for- 
med, or  Company's  difpatches  were  coming  over 
land,  of  which  I  might  'avail  myfelf  ;  I  found  my 
(ituation  in  the  houfe  of  Mr.  'growing  ex- 
tremely critical.  That  gentleman,  ■  of  whole  good 
fenfe,"  and  tiuly  excellent  difpofition,  t  had  too 
rnamfo'd  proofs  to  call  them  in  queftion,  had, 
though  fallen  into  the  vale  of  years,  married  his  la- 
dy at  a  very  tender  age.  She  was  then  young,, 
beau  ifu),  full  of  fenfibility.  and  gifted  with  fuch. 
natuiai  endowments  both  of  mind  and  perion,  ac- 
companied with  all  thoie  accdrnptiihments  which 
helped  to  cirefs  them  to  advantage,  that  (he  might 
well  Be  acq  ittteJ  of  vanity,  even  though  fancy 
fug^Med  to  her  fhe  was  fit  to  grace  and  confer  hap- 
pinefson'a  younger  bed  ;  while  reft .  £Von  on  the 
obvious  dif  parity  of  the  match  (which  the  cool  tem- 
per of  fatiety  poflibiy  fuggefted  to  him)  might  per- 
haps have  alarmed  his  mind  to  circumftances  of 
probable  danger,  that,  before  wedlock,  were  all 
hid  behind  the  deceptive  veil  of  pafliorv.  Whe- 
ther thc'.e  were  the  private  fentiments  that  influen- 
ced tVth  or  ei;  her  of  them,  I  cannot  prelume  to 
determine,  though  I  think  it  probable  :  for  I  was 
not  long  in  the  houie  till  I  plainly  perceived  they 
were   on  a  very   bad    fooling  with  each  other,  and 


214     DISAGREEABLE  ADVENTURE. 

in  fhort  that  difagreement  was  become  habitual  tj> 
them.  At  fir  ft,  that  is  to  lay,  for  a  few  clays  after 
my  becoming  an  inmate  of  their  houie,  decency  cn- 
Jc;ced  concealment,  and  the  ebullitions  of  pcvifh- 
nets  were  Milled  by  the  chelates  of  prudence  ;  but 
the  animohdies  of  the  connubial  ftate  are  thofre  which 
of  all  others  are  the  mod  impatient  under  control  ;■ 
and  as  time,  by  producing  familiarity,  relaxed  ie(l- 
raint,  the  pent-up  palnons  began  to  force  their  way, 
and  open  bickering  tuck  place  in  mv  pvelence. 

It  is  but  barely  doing  juflice  to  rnyfelf  10  lay.  that 
I  felt  the  rr.oft  poignant  concern  at  iecing  a  couple, 
each  lo  perfectly  amiable  in  all  b|hei'  reipetts  hluil- 
h'ig  the  hours  : ; iac  fhould  be  given  to  harmony  and 
love,  in  jarring  reproach,  and  recrimination  ;  and 
1  would  have  given  ail  I  was  worth  that  I  had  ne- 
ver had  occafion  to  efteem  them  fo  much,  or  that 
I  could  give  them  that  peace  which  feemed  to  have, 
flown  them  for  ever.  Fain  would  i  Gift  a  veil 
over  the  whole  tronfaclion  fain  would  I  bury  it 
even  from  myfeif,  in  oblivion  :  but  it  has  been 
made  by  my  enemies  the  lubject  of  triumphant  {lan- 
der; and  to  do  juftice  to  mylelf,  and  diiclaim  the 
ex'ent  of  guilt  which  they  would  impute  to  me,  I 
am  reluctantly  obliged  to  avow  the  fr>s;e  1  Lao, 
and  declare  how  the  matter  really  flood.  I  muit 
ipeak  the  truth,  and  hope  you  will  not  conceive 
that  I  delignedly  lean  too  heavily" upon  any  one,  to 
eaie  rnyfelf  of  my  fnare  of  the  load. 

Whatever  domestic  Ltneafinefs  may  fubfift  be- 
tween a  married  pair,  the.  mar),  if  prudent,  v 
endeavour  to  conceal  it  ;  and  the  woman,  if  truly 
virtuous,  will  cuke  cue  to  do  lo  :  fhould  great  dis- 
parity of  age  (as  in  the  piefent  ihftancej  be  the 
caie,  the  lady  is  more  particularly  bound  to  conceal 
arty  up.eafinels.  left  it  fhould  be  attributed  tcj  that 
clue  which  people  are  in  fuch  cafes  too  pio;;e  to 
Juipccr,  diflike  lo  her  hufbmd;  and  before  young 
B.en,  abo\  t  foe  fhould  be  [Raft  exemplary. 


DISAGREEABLE  ADVENTURE.      215 

fhe  mud  well  know  that  their  natural  vanity,  com- 
bined with  the  leading  idea  of  her  averfion  and 
infidelity  to  her  hufband,  fugged  ideas  to  them 
from  whence  (heir  w?rm  imaginations  draw  infer- 
ences of  a  nature  too  pleahng  to  be  parted  with, 
and  too  probable  not  to  be  put  in  pr^tt^ce,  or  at 
lead  attempted.  Here  then  a  woman  at  once  lays 
herfelf  fairly  open  to  the  a{Taults  of  illicit  love.  I 
think  it  will  not  be  denied,  that  the  woman  who 
promulgates  the  disagreements  between  her  and  her 
hufband,  particularly  if  fhe  fuffers  a  young  man  to 
be  privv  to  ir,  is  either  extremsly  ignorant,  or  in* 
tcntionally  vicious,   or  both. 

That  the  lady  I  allude  to  m3y  in  fome  refpecl;  be 
acquitted  of  this  impu-tation,  I  mufl  tell  you,  that 
ilie  was  only  eighteen  years  .of  age  ;  her  tender,  in- 
experienced mind  had  not  vet  ariived  to  that  matu- 
rity which  gives  found  j  nSgme'nt  ;  and  though  of 
good  natural  talents,  highly  cultivated  (for  fhe  ipoke 
fluently  Engl'ia,  Fret.ch,  Italian,  Aiibic,  Per  Man, 
and  the  Greek  arnd  Tuikifh  languages],  fh<:  yet  was 
inapte,  irftiocrttt,  uninformed  in  the  ways  of  the 
woili,  and  incapable  of  realoning  from,  caules  up 
to  confebuehces.      But  unfortunate  timplicity 

is  attenaed  with  as  much  mrfchief,  l:  o  gh  not 
£<»ilt,  as  the  wiiful  mvfcondr.cl:  of  the  more  expe- 
rienced ;  it  haji  the  fame  bdieful  eft.  eta  with  the 
hearers,  inipues  the  lj;nc  confide;!  ce,  emboldens 
with  the  lame  hopes,  and  leads  to  the  lam^.  perni- 
cious pi  aft  ces. 

I  have  already  mentioned,  and  will  now  remind 
you,  that  1  was  then  *oung.  Perhaps  it  was  owing 
to*  a  Congeniality  pointed  out  bv  pur  age,  perhaps 
to  a  compaffionate  politencis  j&mo'tfniing   to    ten  Ler- 

S,  which  I  always  diiciofed  on  thofe  unhaj  py 
occasions,  joined!  perhaps  id  the  ardent  lex  k  of 
youth  kindled  lv  the  imaginations  to  which  this 
imprudent    conduct   mienlib!  ,  .,   th.it.  'he 

y  thought  ore -per  to  take  the  veiy  hazardous  fie  > 


2l6      DISAGREEABLE  ADVENTURE. 

of  msking  a  confidant  of  a  young  man  and  a  foldier 
- — and  revealing  to  me  the  whole  tale  of  her  griev- 
ances,  with  a  pathetic  eloquence,    that  would  have 
made  an    impreflion   upon  a  much   lefs   luicepiiblc 
heart   than   mine.      I   declare  it  mofr.  folemely,   that 
though    this  extraordinary   mark  of  confidence  and 
efleem  communicated  to  my  heart  ftrong   ienfations 
of  unjuflifiable  pl.eafure  ;   I   fo  fV.r  got  the  better  of 
myfelf  at    firft,  as    to    receive   the  whole  with  the 
fame    appearance    of  tranquility,  as  if  I    had  been 
only  a  confidential  female   friend.      I    pitied,    it    is 
true  ; — I    expreffed   my  pity  ; — I  adviied,   not  trea- 
cheroufly    but    faithfully  ; — I    (a;d    fuch    things    as 
occurerl  to  me  to  be  moft  likely  to  affuage   and   ex- 
tinguish the,  flame  of  diicord,   and  lead  to  an  amca- 
ble    adjustment  ;   and  1  parted   foi    that    time   with 
her  to  go  to  a  felf-apritoving   pliiovv,   where,   while 
my  fancy  was  inflamed  and  lickled  by  the  flattering 
maik  of  regard  (hewn  me  bv    lo  all-accomplifhed  a 
ptrion,    I  had  the  Toothing  nelightful  conlciouinefs 
of  having,  as'far  as  1  was  ible,  done  r.v  duty,   and 
efcaped  'he  corroding  refkclon  of   having  violated 
the  lights  of  hofpirali  v. 

Not  an  opportunity  however  afterwards  ofTered, 
that  the  farr  :  unhappy  point  -.vas  not  the  lubp*ct  of 
cfifcuffii  n,  and  unfortunately  thole  opportunities  but 
too  frequei.lly  occurred  ;  till  at  length  we  began  to 
feel  that  they  w<  s  rhc  iwecteft  minutes  of  our 
lives,   and  wei  ht   for  with  in du&riti js  avidi'.y 

by  both     f  us.      No  human  refolution  was  Sufficient 
to   v-i;..,       -    fllcJj   an   unlucky  concui-.^r.cc  ol    cir- 
cum fiances  :     from   lamenting  the    grievance*,    we 
wiflied    to    remove    them  ;    from   v.  firing,    we  | 
cteded    to    conhcier    the  means:   and  when  v\  e 
got    that   length,    ihe    flight    was    not  far  to  the  ex- 
treme end — the  execution  cf  it.      My  ]  ;>ur- 
ried    me  before    themj   my  expreflions  grew  gradu- 
ally   more  and    mo'e    unguarded,  our    conUefia 
became  more  intercfting  una  warm;  and  th 


DISAGREEABLE  ADVENTURE.     217 

Telt  and  ftruggled  to  be  guided  by  the  ftrvft  princi- 
ples of  honour,  and  formed  a  ihoufand  resolutions 
not  to  tranfgrefs  the  laws  of  hofpitality,  by  injuring 
the  man  who  had  treated  me  with  luch  kindneis, 
the  ftruggle  became  too  fe verve  for  me — the  defire 
of  "pie.  ifing  a  lovely  woman,  who  had  repo'ed  iuch 
unbounded  confidence  in  me,  and  who  ieemed  to 
expect  nnd  require  of  me  to  alleviate  her  mifery,  at 
length  bore  down  all  the  oppofttions  fuggeded  by 
realon  and  principle,  and  1  agreed  to  become  th-s 
inftrument  of  her  removal  from  this  unhappy  iitua- 
tion.  We  fell — but  not  intirely.  There  is  one 
length  to  which  no  earthly  confederation — no  al- 
lurement however  dazzling  could  tempt  me — it  is 
now  the  moll  cordial  confutation  to  my  mind  ;  I 
never  fuffered  myfelf  to  think  of  trefpaiTmg  on  the 
decorum  of  his  houie,  nor  did  we  in  any  fmgle  in- 
ftance  carry  our  intercourfe  to  a  direct  violation  of 
his  bed.  Though  the  tranfports  of  youthful  paf- 
fion  hurried  us  into  conventions  and  reflections  en 
the  iubject  of  her  determination  to  be  feparated 
from  her  hufband,  yet  tli3t  paflion  was  of  too  deli- 
cate a  kind  %o  fink  into  the  brutal  fordid  indulgence 
of  difhonourable  ftoien  embraces.  She  wilhed  for 
that  feparation,  rather  as  a  fubterfuge  from  incefiant 
diurnal  mifery,  than  as  a  prelude  to  any  vicious  or 
illicit  enjoyment  ;  and  we  looked  with  pleaiure  to 
the  event,   but  we  looked  no  further. 

It  is  thus  that,  in  the  down-hill  path  of  vice, 
we  are  hurried  on  ftep  by  ftep,  fondly  imagining 
that  each  iucceffive  obj.-cl,  which  bounds  our  fight, 
will  flop  our  headlong  career;  while  alas!  every 
ftep  we  advance  gives  additional  rapidity  to  our  de- 
icent  :  like  the  centripetal  force  of  a  projectile,  our 
pace  incieales  with  uniformly  accelerated  motion — 
till  diidaming  all  control,  and  bieaking  down  every 
impediment  tuat  leaion,  morality,  or  honour  throw 
in  the  way  to  refcue  us  or  retard  our  lain,   we   pic- 

T 


21  8      DISAGREEABLE  ADVENTURE. 

cipitate  unexpectedly  into  the  lad  gulph  of  vice 
and  infamy. 

Fortunately,  however*,  an  incident  intervened  in 
the  prefent  cafe,  which  arretted  our  progrefs  down 
this  hideous  defcent,  2nd  referved  us  both  I  hope 
to  conviction  of  our  folly,  and  repentance  of  our 
error.  And  I  have  the  confolation  to  reflect,  that 
out  of  fuch  a  hoft  of  dangers  and  temptations  as  I 
was  befet  with,  I  have  cicaped  without  the  actual 
perpetration  of  a  deed,  which  would,  had  it  hap- 
pened, in  all  probability  have  embittered  my  life. 

While  we  hugged  ourfelves  in  the  fecurity  and 
fecrecy  of  exprefiing  our  genuine  fentiments,  her 
hi  {band  dilcovered  our  wifhes,  and  all  at  once 
took  the  neceflary  meafures  for  preventing  them. 
So  that,  overwhelmed  with  grief  and  fhame,  I 
directly  formed  the  reiolution  to  leave  Aleppo,  and 
proceed  in  the  bell  manner  1  could  on  my  decli- 
nation. 

Thus  you  fee,  my  dear  Frederick,  was  your 
father,  by  failing  to  refill:  the  firfl  imprefiions  of  an 
unlawful  and  difnonourable  pafhon,  infenfibly  led 
to  the  very  brink  of  a  precipice,  the  bare  remem- 
brance of  which  now  makes  him  fhudder  with  hor- 
ror. The  ftory,  by  means  unneceflary  for  me  to 
mention,  took  wind.  The  folly  of  fome,  the  ma- 
lice of  others,  and  the  unaccountable  propenfity  to 
fa'iehood  of  more,  trumpeted  it  about  with  many 
exaggerations  to  my  injury,  and  I  was  held  up  *0s 
the  deliberate  fedi;cer  of  innocence  :  but  the  whole 
tranfaftion  is  exr.ct.ly  as  I  have  ftated  it  ;  and  tire 
difr.<*reements   previous   to  my   arrival    at   Aleppo, 

lich,  in  telling  the  ftorv,  they  puryofcly  left  out, 
were  of  fuch  public  notoriety,  that  every  European, 
even  the  ccniul  himfelf,  was  fully  acquainted  with 
them.  This  is  the  coniequence  or  a  deviation 
from  the  (i\:xt  rule  of  right.  Treafure  it  up  in 
v  if  mind,  my  child,  never  to  be  forgotten  ;  and 
.t  operate  as  a  caution  to  you,   how  you  entangle 


DISAGREEABLE  ADVENTURE.      1 1  9 

yourfelf  in   the  fnares   of    women  :    recolieft    I 
my   efeape   was    angularly   fortunate,  and   th 
efieft   of  accident;    and   {biter    not   youiielf,   I 
becaufe   accident    leived  in  one  caie  it   will  hi  ano- 
ther.     Providence    has,   for  the  wile  ft  of  purpo. 
imulanted  in  our  nature  a  fondnefs  for  the  fair  lex  : 
and    fo   long   as  it  is  ufcd  prudently  and  virtuouflv, 
it  conftitiites  the  hi  ft  happinefs  of  life;  but   if  on 
the-  contrary!   it  ftimulates    us    to   excefs,   impels   to 
injure    our    fellow    creature,   or  break   in  upon  the 
repofe  of  a  family  ;   it  is  our  reproach,   our    Hume, 
ir   curie,   and   very   frequently   our  utter  and  irre- 
mediable   ruin  ;    add    to    this,    that    there    is    in    the 
general    character    of    women,    a    capiicioufnefs,    .1 
levity,   and  a  vanity,   under  tj  which 

they  fport  With  men,  only  to  di 
and  evince  the  force  of  their  chasms,  which  m?k  s 
the  cultivation  of  their  good  graces  in  any  way 
hazardous.  To  adopt  the  idea  of  an  old  epigram — 
t;  There  is  no  living  with  them,  nor  without 
them." 

As  your  happinefs,  my  dear  boy,  is  the  fit  ft  ob~ 
j eft  of  my  life,  my' efforts  fhall  be  turned  to  the 
g  tiding  of  your  greener  years  from  any  premature 
imprefiions  ;  and  when  reafon  and  matured  age  fit 
you  for  the  cultivation  and  enjoyment  of  female 
focietfl,  be  it  mine  to  direft  your  fteps  away  from 
that  clafs,  who  think  rank  a  fufEcient  fanftion  for 
vice,  who  flare  in  all  the  bronze  of  ariftocratic 
aiTurance,  under  a  load  of  obloquy,  beneath  wh;. 
the  pooreft  peafant's  wife  would  link  ;  who  think 
that  wealth  and    rank  confer  a  riff ht  to    co.nmtt   ex- 

o 

ceffes  that  would  degrade  the  meaneft  of  the  cr- 
naille  ;  and  felicitate  themfelves  with  the  reflection, 
that,  under  the  protection  of  family  or  an  infamous 
hufbind,  they  may  indulge  in  enormities,  for 
which  the  lowed  of  their  lex  ate  beating  hemp 
in  15  ride  well. 


220      DEPARTURE  FROM  ALEPFO.- 


LETTER    XXXVI. 


T 

A  HE  difcovery  to  which  I  alluded  in  my- 
j'afl  letter,  furpriled  and  grieved  me  very  much  ;. 
and  indeed  it  afionifhed  me  the  more,  fYom  the 
manner  in  which  it  was  communicated. 

One  day  I  received  a  polite  meifrge  from  the 
Eritifh  conful,  faying,  he  wifhed  to  fpeak  to  me 
as  iocn  as  poflible,  upon  a  bufinefs  of  great  confe- 
quence.  J  thought  at  firft,  thai  it  might  be  fome 
plan  for  my  proceeding  on  my  journey — perhaps 
Company's  difpaiches  that   had  znived  to  go  over 

i  ;  and  at  intervals,  fomething  like  apprehenfi- 
ons  of  the  true  motive  of  his  fending  for  in e  flew 
iicrofs  my  rni>:d.  I  however  went  to  him,  when, 
after  fome  little  introductory   converiauon,    he  told 

me,  that  my  hoft  Mr. had  been  with  him 

that  morning,  laying  before  him  a  complaint  of  a 
mod  extraordinary  and  ferious  nature,  of  wh:chr 
as  it  immediately  concerned  me,  he  thought  hitai- 
ielf  bound  to  inform  me,  in  order  that  I  might 
either  contradict  fo  grofs  a  calumny  if  it  were  un- 
true, or  find  means  to  avoid  the  obvioufty  neceffa- 
ly  refult  if  founded  in  fact. 

He  then  proceeded   to  relate  to  me.    that    Mr. 

• had   informed  him  of  a   ednfpiracy  having 

been  meditated  againfl  his  peace  and  honour,  be- 
tween his  wife  and  the  Englim  gentleman  whom 
he  had  entertained  in  his  houfe  ;  that  their  plan 
was  nothing  lels  than  an  elopement,  and  that  he. 
did  not  know  how  loon  it  might  be  catried  into 
execution,  if  not  timely  prevented  ;  and  finally, 
thai  he  had  demanded  the  affiltance  of  the  con 
and  his  iateielt  with  the  Turkiih  magiftiale  to  p. 


DEPARTURE  FROM    ALEPPO.     221 

vent  it,  by  granting  him  an  armed  force  fur  the 
protection  of  hishoule. 

I  was  much  furpihed  to  find  th.it  conversions 
fo  very  guarded  as  ours  w,ere  di (covered,  and  more 
fo  that  the  aggrieved  perlon  did  not  think  proper 
to  Jpeak  to  myfelf,  and  charge  me  in  pet  Ion  with 
the  offence;  never  reflecting  the  while,  that  all  my 
ideas  were  military,  und  his  merely  commercial  :  I 
was  alio  much  at  a  lols  to  conj  cture  how  he  came 
to  make  the  dilcovery — hut  this  I  found  afterwards 
he  owed  to  a  female  lervan:,  who  had  been  im- 
providently  intruited  by  her  miftrels  with  tne 
fee  ret. 

Finding,  however,  that  by  whatever  means  he 
became  acquainted  wiih  the  affair,  it  was  a  certain 
fact  that  he  was  apprifed  of  it,  1  directly  acknow- 
ledged the  whole  truth  with  the  utmoft  candour  to 

o 

the  conlul  ;  told  him  the  affair  ffep  by  ffep  a>  it 
arofe,  a  {Turing  him  (which  I  really  thought  to  be 
the  cafe)  that  pity  for  the  lady's  deplorable  fitua- 
tion  made  me  liflen  to  luch  a  meaiure  ;  and  tliat 
unlawfui  paffion  had  fo  little  to  do  with  it,  that  in 
all  our  private  conferences  we  had  never  tranf- 
greffjd  the  limits  of  purity  ;  and  that  her  perlon 
was,  at  lea (l  refpe£ting  me,  and  I  firmly  believed 
all  mankind,  fpotlels  and  inviolate.  I  adcled,  that 
great  allowances  were  to  be  made  for  a  young  crea- 
ture barely  eighteen  years  of  age,  configned  by  the 
wickedneis  of  avaricious  parents  to  the  embraces  of 
a  man  of  fixty-five  ;  who,  amiable  and  worthy 
though  he  wos,  in  fecial  intercourfe  with  me 
world  (which  I  knew  hiin  to  be),  was  yet  in  the 
mod  indifpenfable  point  of  connubial  felicity  lb  • 
U'terly  defective,  as  neceffinly  to  create  diiguft 
and  abhorrence  in  a  youthful  mind.  I  remuked 
to  h:m,  thai,  in  the  forming  of  laws,  it  as  plainly 
appeared  on  their  face,  who  made  them  among  lb 
the  English,  as  it  docs  on  the  face  of  the  G;ntoo 
laws,  that  they   were  made  by  the  Bratnins  :     for, 

T  2 


222       DEPARTURE  FROM  ALEPPO. 

as  by  $,he  latter  the  penally  of  a  few  puns*  of  coti- 
ries  (not  value  a  (hilling)  is  annexed  to  the  perpe- 
tration of  a  crime,  for  which  thofe  of  another 
clais  loofc  their  lives  ;  fo,  among  us,  it  appears 
that  our  laws  are  made  by  the  aged,  the  decrepid, 
the  fenfua),  and  the  rich.  Elfe  it  could  never  hap- 
pen that  there  were  in  the  fame  code,  laws  to  pun- 
ifh  marriage  between  the  young  and  vigoious,  and 
enable  the  brutality  of  a  parent  to  take  its  full 
fcope,  and  confign,  as  in  the  prefent  inflance, 
youth,  beauty,  health,  and  every  perlonal  attraction, 
to  the  arms  of  age,  infirmity,  and  impotence.  And, 
I  concluded  by  faying,  that  all  parties  aiding  in 
fuch  an  unnatural  confederacy  fhould  be  punifhed. 
The  coniul  fairly  acknowledged  there  was  too 
much  truth  in  what  1  had  faid  ;  but  remarked 
withal,  that  it  was  rather  a  hazardous  experiment, 
;md  he  was  lure  it  would  be  an  endlefs  one,  to 
correct  all  the  abufes  to  which  the  fallibility  of 
.  and  his  incompetency  to  form  any  thing  per- 
fect, neceifirily  left  iociety  and.  their  laws  liable— 
that  the  law  was  written,  and  it  was  the  duty  of 
every  individual  to  obey  it — and  that  in  cafes  of 
adultery,  the  offence  could  be  juftificd  on  no  folid 
grounds  whatever,  for,  independent  of  the  feel- 
ings of  the  bufband,  which  perhaps  were  more 
poignant  in  old  3ge  than  youth,  the  injury  tb  his 
family  was  not  to  be  got  over,  in  probably  giving 
to  him  an  heir  no  way  a-kin  to  him.  "  It  would 
be  right,  I  think."  faid  he,  "  to  Hop  fuch  dilpro- 
portionate  matches  ;  yet,  once  made,  they  fhould 
be  as  religioufly  obierved  inviolate  as  thole  of  love, 
among  which  we  almoft  as  frequently,  as  in  thofa 
of  compulfion,  lee  intlances  of  infidelity.  If  you 
doubt  this,"  laid  he,  "  lead  the  records  of  Dodura' 
Commons*" 

*  Couries,  a  kind  of  fmall  (hells  ufed  in  India,  as  a  circu- 
lating medium  in  place  of  coin,  in  value  much  below  the 
imalle  It.  copper  com — a  Pun  is  a  certain  number  of  them. 


DEPARTURE  FROM  ALEPPO.      223 

I  agreed  to  the  juftice  of  what  he  faid,  at  the 
fame  time  allured  him,  that  my  intentions  went  no 
farther  than  \v idling  the  lady  to  be  refcued  from 
her  thraldom,  which  I  told  him  was  dreadful. — 
"  I  am  lure,*'  faid  the  conful,  "  that  Mr.  Camp- 
bell thinks  lo,  becaufe  I  am  convinced  he  would 
not  otherwife  fay  Co.  But  may  nor,"  faid  he,  fmi- 
l^ng,  "  may  not  Mr.  C.  have  deceived  himfelf  ? 
thcie  are  things  in  which  the  paflions  are  ftrangely 
apt  to  hoodwink  the  understanding.  However," 
continued  he,  breaking  off  pleaiantlv,  "  I  muft 
give  you  all  the  comfort  that  truth  \v.!i  allow  me 
to  do  :  I  am  fure  that  the  poor  lady  is  condemned 
to  great  wreichednefs  ;  partly  from  my  own  obfer- 
vation.  partly  from  public  report,  and  partly  from 
her  own  mouth  :  for  you  muft  know  (he  has  feve- 
ral  times  complained  to  me  of  her  feufband's  pee- 
vifhncls  and  tyranny  ;  and  even  Iw! ought  me  to 
ufe  my  influence  and  authority  to    relieve  her  from 

her  milery.       Mr.  ,"    continued  he,     "  is  a 

man  whom  on  all  other  accounts  I  efteem,  and  va- 
lue highly.  In  this  inftance  he  has  ened,  and  I 
cannot  pity  him,  even  though  he  iuifers  all  the 
torments  of  jealoufy  :  and  as  there  are  laws  f»r 
punidnng  with  death  premature  intercourie  with 
the  fex,  I  cannot  (ee,  any  more  than  you,  why  the 
fact  -(Being  youth  to  extreme  old  age  fhouid  not  be 
equally  pumfhed,  for  I  am  furc  it  is  equally  unna- 
tural, and  Mill  more  injurious  to  a  (late.  Theleare 
my  lentiments,"  continued  he  ;  •*  but  let  not  this 
declaration  induce  you  to  think  that  I  the  lets  dif- 
approve  of  your  intermeddling.  You  have  allowed 
me  the  privilege  of  a  friend,  and  I  will  not  iufier 
it  to  be  made  an  empty  one.  You  were  more  cul- 
pable than  many  young  men  would  be  ;  full,  be- 
cause you  are  married,  and  fhouid,  upon  the  com- 
mon principle  of  doing  as  you  would  be  dope  by, 
have  1  e framed  ;  and  next,  becauie  you  were  en- 
joying the  tweets  of  hoipitaluy  in  his  home,  and 


224      DEPARTURE  FROM  ALEPPO. 

fhould  have  dafhed  from  his   lips,   rather  than  held 
to  them,    the  deepefl  cup  of  bitiemeis." 

"  But,  mv  dear  hi,"  faid  I,  "  1  do  not  attempt 
tojuftify — 1  only  endeavour  to  mitigate  the  matter, 
and  you  will  recclleft  that  the  very  ciicumftance 
wn.c'.i  in  one  point  of  view  aggravates,  in  another 
alleviates  the  fault  :  the  living  in  his  houle  afforded 
tro!e  interviews  and  expoled  me  to  thofe  tempta- 
tions under  which  I  was  near  finking — I  fhould 
never  have  fought  them  :  but  he  muft  be  more  or 
Is  than  man,  that  could  have  refitted  them  :  and 
though  I  have  a  bigti  len(e  of  Mr.  Conlul's  ihict 
honour  and  virtue,  as  well  as  prudence,  he  mult 
excufe  me,  though  I  doubt  whether  he  could  hi 
iclf  hive  refilled  io  long  and  fo  effectually  as  I  <: 
J  am  lure  there  ate  many  who  will  cenlure,"  that 
could  not." 

The   conful   finiled,  and,   turning    the    difee 
fiorn  its  direct  line,   obferved,   thai  it  was  absolutely 
neceiTary  I  fhould   defift,   elle   he  would  be  (obliged 

tp  uie  his. influence  and  power  fo  pio'ect  Mr. . 

In  anfwer  to  this,  I  gave  him  my  honour  in  the 
firfl  place,  that  1  would  proceed  no  farther  in  t  .e 
bufingfs ;  and  that,  on  the  contrary,  I  was  deter- 
mined to  let  out  upon  my  journey  to  India  dire&ly, 
.if  means  could  be  contrived  for  my  conveyance  ; 
adding,  that  I  fhould  coufider  it  as  a  great  favour, 
in  addition  to  thole  I  had  already  leceived  at  his 
ids,  if  he  would  contrive  Lome  means  to  fet  ms 
forward  in  my  route. 

To  this  he  aniwered,  that  as  the  making  up  of  a 
caravan  would  be  extiavagantly  expenhve,  he  knew 
no  means  that  were  not  attended  with  ceita-n  hard- 
ship and  eventual  danger;  but  finding  me  deter- 
mined at  almoft  any  danger  or^iazard  to  fet  off.  he 
piopoied  to  tend  for  a  man  who  knewjCjj^flpPPf 
iouice  in  thai  way,  and  when  he  j^wie  would  talk 
on  the  bufinefs  ;  and  in  the  mean  time,  re- 
commended great  ciicumipe&ion'  ^>  me    while  I 


DEPARTURE  FROM  ALEFPO.      225 

eoutinued  at  Mr.  's  houfey  to  which  I  very 

iolemnly  pledged  my  word. 

Being  now  conftrained  by  every  confederation,  as 
well  of  prudence  and  decency  as  of  inclination,  to 
leave  Aleppo  immediately;  I  determined  that  no 
common  impediments  fhould  flop  me,  and  waited 
with  impatience  the  arrival  of  the  perfon  On  whom 
the  conful  refled  his  hopes  of  diipatching  me. 

He  came  in  the  evening,  and  after  a  conference 
with  the  conful  he  introduced  him  to  me,  and  ac- 
quainted me  that  he  was  a  Tartar,  and  one  of  the 
vail  number  of  that  defcription  who  are  employed 
by  the  Turkifh  (late  in  carrying  difpatches  from 
coi:vt  to  the  various  viceroys  and  bafhaws,  and  in- 
terchangeably between  them  again  j  that  they  were 
men  on  whole  fidelity  the  utmoft  reliance  could  be 
had  ;  and  that  this  man,  who  had  an  excellent  cha« 
ia£ler,  had  agreed  to  take  me  to  Bagdad,  provided 
J  would  fubmit  to  the  difguife  of  a  Tartar. 

The  agreement  between  us  I  entirely  (ubrmtted 
to  the  dilcretion  of  the  conful,  who  had  the  good- 
nefs  to  fettle  it  thus: — The  Tartar  was  to  deliver 
me  fafe  at  Bagdad  ;  to  fupply  me  and  my  fervanrr 
who  acted  as  interpreter,  with  an  ample  fufSciency 
of  provifions  and  horfes  on  the  road;  to  exchange 
my  horie  for  me  as  often  as  I  plealed,  and  to  go  at 
iuch  a  rate,  whether  fafter  or  flower,  as  I  thought 
proper  :  for  this  he  was  to  receive  one  hundred 
pounds:  and  I  further  promifed,  as  an  encourage- 
ment to  him,  that  if  he  acted  to  my  falisfaeYion,  I 
would,  on  our  arrival  at  Bagdad,  add  a  douceur  of 
twenty  pounds. 

The  next  day  he  came,  and  1  had  a  diftinft  view 
of  this  my  new  fellow  traveller  and  fuppoled  matt- 
er, for  in  leverai  places,  I  was  to  pais  for  his  Have. 
He  was  one  of  thole  Itriking  character  figures  that 
a  painter  would  like  to  take  a  {ketch  of — and  me- 
thought  Tartar  was  written  legibly  in  every  line- 
ament of   his   countenance  and    perfon. — He  was 


226      DEPARTURE  FROM  ALEPPO. 

tall,  mufcular,  and  bony — his  figure  befpoke  grcrt 
hardihood,  ftrength,  and  activity — r.or  could  the 
trowfers  which  he  wore  conceal  the  Heiculean  tex- 
ture of  his  limbs — his  {boulders  were  expanded  to 
an  enormous  breadth — he  was  unincumbered  with 
flcfh,  or  indeed  lather  extremely  lean — his  fore- 
head, though  partly  concealed  beneath  his  turban, 
was  very  high — his  nofe  large,  hoiked,  {harp,  and 
prominent — a  pair  of  f  nail,  fierce,  bLck,  pem- 
eyes,  barely  feparated  bv.the  role,  arid  a  formidable 
pair  of  muftachiof,  which  he  caiefully  Hacked  with 
pomatum  into  a  point  refembling  an  awlblade,  and 
which  mcved  like  the  whifkers  of  a  runing  car, 
with  every  word  he  fpoke,  gave  a  whimfical  fero- 
city to  the  countenance,  bevond  the  reach  of  tie- 
icrip-ion.  and  rendered  him  akogeihei  as  dlfcour 

6dental  friend,  as  ever  a  Chriftian  truir- 
ed  his  life  to  fmce  Mahomet  firft  let  up  the  trade 
of  a  prophet.  .He  iurveyed  me  with  gi  eat  atten- 
tion— opened  his  mouth  two  or  three  times  like  a 
gafping  pike,  as  if  to  fpeak — ftroaked  his  whifkers 
as  of: en — and  at  lad  pronounced  that  he  would  un- 
dertake to  conduct  me  ;  adding,  in  allufion  to  my 
black  hair  and  dark  complexion,  that  I  looked  more 
1-ke  a  native,  than  any  Frank  he  had  ever  lecn. 
He  ordeied  me  to  cut  my  hair  quite  fnort,  to  pro- 
vide myfelf  with  the  Tartar  dreis  and  cap,  in  the 
fafnion  of  his  own-;  and  laying  he  would  call  c:i 
me  in  proper  time,   departed. 

Thus  equipped,  we  iet  out,  not  without  great  pain 
.  regret  on  my  part  ;  p^in  at  leaving  a  rood  beau- 
1    young    woman,   whom  I.  pitied. unci  cileerned, 
fubjeftto  ;he  re  fen  J merit  of  a  hufbi'nd,  at  once  jea- 
m  nature,    pec^'iih  from  h^bit.   and  enraged 
from  her  01  a  uneflujyo^al  demor)ftrati< 

f-giei  a  g   been  behaved  b) 

ch  a  ve  is  dilemma, 

:  :uie    (u  )po,  this  affiir  \ 

re^. .  in  -  variety   of   unfavourable 


ARRIVAL  AT  DIARBEKER.       227 

die  different  new  comers  from  England  ;  and  as  a 
ftory  is  that  commodity  which  of  all  others  honed 
people  do  not  love  to  fleal  any  thing  from,  in 
its  pailage  though  their  hands,  it  found  its  way  in 
various  forms  (none  of  them  however  tending  to 
foften  it)  to  many  of  my  friends  and  connections, 
thole  from  whom  of  all  others  I  wifhed  to  conceal 
it.  Labouring  under  fuch  calumnies,  it  cannot  be 
confidered  as  a  violation  of  decorum,  or  unneceffa- 
ry  infraction  upon  delicacy,  if  I  ftate  the  truth, 
in  order,  though  I  cannot  acquit  myfelf  of  cen- 
surable conduct,  at  leaft  not  filently  to  lubmit 
to  unlimited  calumny,  and  charges  of  crimes  which 
I  hope  1  have  too  much  honour  and  integrity  to 
commit. 

I  mull  add,  that  previous  to  my  departure  the 
conful  did  every  thing  that  it  was  poilible  for  him 
to  do,  conducive  to  my  fafety  and  accomodation  on 
the  road,  which  as  we  wefe  obliged  to  g«  to  the 
city  of  Diarbeker,  a  great  length  out  of  our  way, 
he  obferved  would  be  long,  dreary,  fatiguing,  and 
hazardous  ;  he  piocurcd  me  from  others,  and 
gave  me  himfelf,  a  number  of  letters,  and  at  pai- 
ring defired  me  to  comfort  myfelf  with  the  reflect- 
ion, that  when  I  arrived  at  my  journey's  end,  I 
fhould  have  to  boaft,  that  I  went  to  India  by  a 
route  never  travelled  by  an  European  before. 


LETTER    XXXVII. 


xjLS    I  became    familiarifed   to  my  Tartar 

guide  I  found    his   character  ditclbfe    much,   be-'ter 

traits  than  his  firii:  appearance  befpoke,  and  I  began 

nubility    to    think  t;m  a  very  entertaining   fel- 

iciving    That     I  wa's    very    low  Ip'ritei' 


2^8        ARRIVAL  AT  DIAR3EKER. 

and  thoughtful,  he  exhibited  manifeft  marks  of 
companion  ;  and  taking  it  into  his  head  that  I  was 
actually  removed  for  ever  from  my  friends  and  my 
family,  he  fpoke  in  a  flyle  of  regret  and  feeling,  that 
didgrear.  honor  to  his  heart :  and  to  fay  the  truth,  he 
did  every  thing  in  his  power  to  alleviate  my  feelings, 
converting  with  me  either  by  means  of  the  inter- 
pretei,  or  in  broken  lingua  franca  ;  fupplyingall  my 
wants  cheerfully  and  abundantly  ;  changing  holies 
with  me  as  often  as  1  peafed,  and  going  flow  or 
golloping  forward  jufl  as  bed  luited  my  inclination 
or  humour. 

The  firft  object  he  feemed  to  have  in  view  on 
our  journey,  was  to  impieis  me  with  a  notion  of  his 
conlequence  and  authority,  as  a  meilenger  belong- 
ing to  the  Sultan.  As  all  thofe  men  are  employed 
by  the  fn  ft  magiftrates  in  the  country,  and  aie,  as 
it  were,  th«  links  of  communication  between  them, 
they  think  themfelves  of  great  importance  in  the 
flate;  while  the  great  men  whole  bufineis  they  are 
employed  in,  m^ke  them  feel  the  weight  of  author- 
ity, and  treat  them  with  the  greateil  contempt  : 
hence  they  become  habitually  fervile  to  their  fuperi- 
ors,  and  by  natural  conlequence  infolent  and  over- 
bearing to  their  inferiors,  or  thofe  who  being  in 
their  power  they  conceive  to  be  fo.  As  carriers  of 
difpaches,  their  power  and  authority  wherever  they 
go  is  infome  pcints  undiiputed  ;  and  they  can  com- 
pel a  fupply  of  provifion5,  horfes,  and  attendants, 
wherever  it  luits  their  occafions  ;  nor  dare  any  man 
refill  their    richt  to  take  the  hoife  from    under  him 

.O 

to  proceed  on  the  Emperor's  bufinefs,  be  the  owner's 
occafion  ever  lo  prefling. 

My  feelings,  which  I  can  tell  you  were  altoge- 
ther of  the  mod  unplealant  kind,  letved  as  a  ftimu- 
lus  to  my  mind,  and  increaied  my  anxiety  to  get 
forward  ;  I  therefore  pufhed  on  as  fad  as  tiie  hoiles, 
which  were  in  general  excellent,  could  cany  me  : 
and  as  we  halted  at  a  number  of  itages  to  gei  fiefh 


ARRIVAL  AT  DIARBEKER,         229 

hoi  fes  and  provifions,  my  Tartar  guide  bad  frequent 
opportunities  of  indulging  his  felf-irnpoit?nce,  and 
-displaying  his  great  aathority  and  power.  As  foon 
as  he  flopped  at  a  caravanfera,  he  immediately  cal- 
led luibly  about  him  in  the  name  of  the  Sultan, 
demanding  with  an  imperious  and  menacing  tone 
of  voice,  frefh  horfes,  victuals,  &c.  on  the  indant. 
The  terror  of  this  great  man  operated  like  magic  ; 
nothing  could  exceed  the  activity  of  the  men,  the 
brifknels  of  the  women,  and  the  terror  of  the  chil- 
dren ;  for  the  caravanleras  are  continually  attended 
by  numbers  of  the  very  lowed  claffe*  of  the  people  ; 
but  no  quickneis  of  preoaration,  no  effort  or  in- 
dud:y  couid  latisfy  mv  gentleman  ;  he  would  (hew 
ins  his  power  in  a  (till  more  finking  point  of  view, 
ami  fall  belabouring  them  with  his  whip,  and  kick- 
ing them  with  all  his  might.  J  mud  coo f<  Is  1  was 
much  hurt  at  this  extravagant  abufe  of  update  low- 
er, an->  was  two  or  three  limes  on  the  porqt  of  in- 
terfering ;  but  fortunately,  lecoliected  that  <■  would 
neither  oe  in  character,  nor  have  any  g\ad  t  ft'  cl, 
anci  »hat  it  I  prelumed  to  (peak,  my  gu  de  -vould 
be  obliged  in  my  defence  >o  give  me  a  d->gg',ng  in 
order  to  prevent  lulpicion. 

Tlvs  inconfidetite  tyranny  and  cruelty,  I  had 
afterwards  reaion  to  believe,  was  by  no  means  a 
part  of  his  natural  difpohtion  ;  but  vanity,  to  which 
To  m^ny  .among  us  in  Europe  fall  vicVms.  n-^ed 
him  ro  excefiVs,  which  I  dare  fay  his  heart  private- 
ly condemned. 

It  was  on  the  fifth  or  fixth  day  (I  cannot  pre- 
ci  ely  lay  which.)  after  oui  leaving  Aleppo,  thai  we 
got  to  the  city  "of  DiarWeker,  the  capital  of  the 
province  of  tha:  name,  having  palled  over  an  ex- 
tent of  ccuntiy  of  nctwecn  three  and  four  hundred 
milei.  moil  of  u  blefled  with  the  greated  fertility, 
producing,  in  the  tew  cultivated  paits,  giain,  fruits 
ot  various  kinds,  and  fi!k  in  great  variety  and 
abundance,  and  abounding  with  as  rich  padures  i.$ 

U 


230        ARRIVAL  AT  DIARBEKER. 

I  ever  beheld,  covered  with  numerous  herds  and' 
flocks.  The  air  was  charmingly  temperate  in  the 
day-time,  but,  to  my  feeling,  extremely  cold  at 
night. 

Yet  notVvithfhnding  the  extreme  fertility  of  this 
country,  the  bad  adnnni  ft  ration  of  government,  con,- 
fpiring  with  the  indolence  of  the  inhabitants,  leaves 
it  unpopulous  and  uncultivated.  Diarbeker,  pro* 
per,  called  alio  Mefopotamia,  from  its  lying  be- 
tween the  two  famous  rivers  Tigris  and  Euphrates, 
and  by  Mofes  called  Padan  Aram,  that  is  to  'ay 
— *^The  fruitful  Syria;"  abounds  with  corn,  wine, 
o  1,  fruits,  and  ail  the  neceff-.nes  of  life.  It  is  iup- 
poled  to  be  the  ieat  of  the  E-rthly  Paiadife,  and  all 
geographers  agree  that  it  was  there  the  deicendants 
of  Noah  firft  lettled  after  the  flood. 

Inugmftcant  as  U.oie  ciicumftances  may  appear  to 
mere  calculators  of  p refit  and  lols,  it  canrx  t  be  de- 
nied that  they  have  a  powerful  and  pleafing  eficft 
on  the  refined  imagination.  To  be  Heading  that 
ground  where  Abraham  trod;  where  Nahor  the  fa- 
ther of  Rebecca  lived  :  and  where  Lnban,  to  whom 
Jacob  fled  to  avoid  his  brother  Eiau's  iclentment, 
and  whom  he  ferved  fourteen  yeais  for  the  love  1  e 
bore  to  Rachel,  was  to  me  a  ciicumftance  produc- 
tive of  delightful  ienlations.  How  finelv  has  that 
giant  of  the  pen,  Johnfon,  jnftihed  thole  ienta- 
s  in  his  Tour  to  the  Highlands  of  Scotland  and 
A  :flern  lflancs  ; — defcribing  his  emotions  on  vilit- 
ing  the  4  mous  ifland  of  Iona,  or  Colombkill,  he 
day: — '*  \A  e  were  now  treading  that  illuftrious  ifland 
ch    was   once    the  Luminary  of  the   Caledonian 

ano  rovms  baibarians 
o 

e-ge,  and  bleflings  of 
re!  ;j:cn;  To  abftract  the  mind  from  ail  local  emo- 
tic;.,  v-  I  uld  be  im]  ofiible  if  it  were  endeav 
and  would  be  foohfh  if  it  were  pofiible.  V\  hat- 
ever  withdraws  us  fiom  the  power  ot  our  let.:t  — 
whatever  makes  the  ^aft,  the  aidant,  or  the-iuu 


ARRIVAL  AT  DIARBEKER.         23  [ 

predominate  over  the  prefent,  advances  us  in  lhe 
dignity  of  thinking  beings.  Far  fio:n  me,  and 
from  my  fiiends,  be  Inch  frigid  philoionhv.  as  my 
eondutt  us  indifFerent  and  unmoved  over  any 
ground  which  has  been  dignified  by  wifdom,  b  a- 
nery,  or  virtue  ! — that  man  is  little  to  be  envi*  d 
fe  parriotifm  would  not  gain  foice  upon  \hz 
i  of  Marathon,  or  whoifc  piety  would  nut  grow 
warmer  among  the  ruins  or    lona." 

The  city  ok   D.aib^ker  itfeii    is  (ituated  in    a  de- 
lightful p4ain  on  the  banks  of  trie  river  Tigns.^r.d 
rly    ai  its    h?ad  ;   itis  one    of-  the   ri  moft 

popu!  :  Tur- 

key ;  i  with   many   pi  zzats  and   mar- 

ket places  in  the  Turk i til  Hyie,  and  a  large  magni- 
ficent moque,  formerly  a  Chriftian  church  ;  for 
Chriftianity  flourifhed  over  this  country  to  late  zs 
the  fixth  century.  There  is  even  now  a  feci:, 
whole  patriarch  flill  refides  here  :  and  they  Chew 
on  the  road  near  the  town,  a  chapel  where  the 
holy  man  Job  is  laid  to  be  buried.  This  city  is 
fupphed  amply  with  water  by  a  canal  cut  from  the 
Tigris,  and  has  many  caravanleras  on  both  iides  of 
the  river. 

Few  countries  in  the  world  exceed  that  about 
this  city  for  natural  richnefs  and  beauty  : — ihe 
bread  and  wine  are  excellent — the  fruit  bevond 
conception  'delicious — and  my-  friend  the  Tartar 
took  ore,  under  pretence  of  fupercilioas  hauteur, 
to  tear  in  pieces  a  couple  of  fowls,  and  hand  me 
now  a  leg,  now  a  wing,  till  I  made  the  mod  deli- 
cious repaft  1  ever  remember  to  have  eat  in  my 
life. 

It  is  computed  that  there  are  refident  in  this  city 
no  lels  than  twenty  thou  land  Chriftian  inhabitants, 
iome  of  whom  are  of  the  Church  of  Rone  ;  — mi 
perhaps  it  is  owing  to  that  mixture,  that  trie  fair 
iex  have  more  freedom,  and  the  men  more  polite- 
and  affability,  than  thole  of  any  other  city  in 


2$2        ARRIVAL  AT  DIARBEKER. 

the  empire  : — the  chief    bufinefs  there,   is  making 
that  fine  leather  commonly  called  Turkey  leather. 

Figure  to  yourielf,  my  dear  Frederick,  my 
Tartar  guide,  who  was  an  admirable  actor,  fitting 
at  a  caravaniera  in  Rate  at  his  dinner,  devouring 
excellent  fowlsj(Jbpice  pillaws,  and  delicious  fruit, 
in  as  great  pomp  as  a  bafhaw  ;  .and  in  order  to  keep 
up  the  lemblance  of  authority  over  me,  to  favour 
jny  di [guile,  handing  to  me,  who  fat  at  humble 
ciiitance,  a  part  of  his  provisions.  You  may  form 
to  yourielf  an  idea  of  the  Icene  ;  but  all  the  ef- 
forts of  imagination  mud  fail  fhort  of  thi  manner,, 
the  figure,  the  words,  the  looks,  and  the  actions 
of  the  Tartar  ;  lometimes  a  ft, -cling  contemptuous 
pity,  lometimes  lupercilious  anoyance  •,  lometimes 
brutal  fternels,  and  lometimes  the  gentle  biandilh- 
ments  of  conlcious  fuperiority  ;  and  all  in  luch  a 
mafto  ly  ftile  of  performance,  that  I  doubt  whe- 
ther Garrick  btmieif,  with  all  his  powers  of  coun- 
tenance, couid  outdo  him.  Critical  though  my 
fitaaiion  \>?c.  a::d  much  as  I  was  har railed  -.villi  the 
corrosions  ©f  mental  paioj  the  extravag  nt  sciion 
and  ludicrous  pom  polity  of  this  nun  frequently 
overboie  my  prudence,  and  corhpeHe  I  rr.e  to  laugh 
incontinently  and  loudly  ; — en  all  fuch  ic.a.ions 
he  would  put  his  hands  a-kimbo,  draw  up  his  eye- 
brows to  his  t  urban,  'crew  down  tile  corners  of  his- 
mouth  in  the  mofl  rueful  manner,  atid  give  a  loud 
whew  !  with  his  eyes  fixed  in  a  lime  at  me,  ijll 
entirely  overcome  with  laughter,  anu  ready  to  link 
under  it,  I  clipped  my  face  between  mv  hands,, 
and,   b:  i  co.ild,    bowed  in  token  of   lorrow 

and  lion  ;   whe    ,    th reatnifg^ me  vehement Iyr 

ana  at  rt>e  lane  tunc  uuertng  a  h  .icnuu.e,  exprefii- 
on  of  doub  that  he  was  afraid  ne  had  iiaa  a  i  idiot 
impofed  on  ..im,   he  wo  .Ad  huft  a  about,  the 

horiis    to  be    got    readv,     and    order   me  to  get 
horteback,      with    many    denunciations    of 
trea:mc:i%   and  a  taouiaud    fLpurilhes    of 
•  Ye*  my  head. 


CONDUCT  OF  THE  TARTAR,  &c.     233 

As  I  have  rode  along  muling  upon  ihe  contemp- 
tible {lratag*ms  to  which  I  was  reduced,  in  order  to 
get  "through  this  country,  for  no  other  reafon  but 
becaule  I  was  a  Chriftiafl,  I  could  not  help  reflect- 
ing with  forrow  on  t.hc  melancn^W  efiedts  of  iuper- 
fluion,  and  regretting  that  trWFplace,  whica  in 
the  times  of  primitive  firnplicity  was  called  the 
Terreftrial  Paradife  ;  that  place  where  God  hrft 
planted  man  after  the  flood  ;  wheie  the  god-like 
Abraham  and  the  holy  Job  breathed  the  pure  air  of 
piety  and  firnplicity  ;  that  place  which  from  ail 
thoie  circumftances  ought  to  be  confidered  above 
all  others  as  the  univerial  inheritance  of  mankind, 
fhould  now  be  cutofr  from  all  but  a  horde  of  lenfe- 
lels  bigo's,  barbarous  fanatics,  and  inflexible  ty- 
rants. And  I  could  not  help  confidering  with 
melancholy  concern,  the  blindneis  and  infatuation 
of  men,  who,  lefs  earned  to  accon;moda!e  thern- 
felves  than  injure  otheis,  flint  out  their  feilow- 
cteatures  from  that  which  they  themfelves  will  not 
uie,  and.  while  they  fuller  millions  of  the  richeft 
acres  in  the  univerfe  to  be  untilled,  and  fpend  their 
fweetnefs  in  the  defert  air,  with  wicked  jealouly, 
snd  envy  more  than  diabolical,  begrudge  to  others 
the  little  fpot  on  which  they  ftand,  and  chafe  them 
as  they  would  a   lavening  tiger  ftom  their  country. 


LETTER    XXXVIII. 


A  v 

.ZjlS  we  advanced  towards   the  fouthward 

and  eaftward,    in   our    w«jy  from  D=aibckerto 

■id,   1  found   the  a-r    become    feufibly  waj 

obferved    that    the    dilpofuipn   of.  the   people 

moreand  more  brutal.      My    guide's   conduct 

£or  he  knew  them    well]  became    pioporuoniely 

U  2 


3  CONDUCT  OF  THE 

artful,  and  my  manners  were  of  courfc  to  grow  fo 
much  the  humbler.  I  obferved,  however,  that  his 
authority  continued  the  fame,  and  that  he  leemed 
to  exert  it  with  greater  rigour  ;  not  in  feverity  or 
chattiiement.  but^n  exafting  implicit  obedience. 
Yet  ftiil  he  eviddJP^  atfced  with  great  caution  and 
circumlpeclion  ;  for,  in  feme  diftri£b,  he  either 
avoided  the  little  villages  by  a  circuitous  route,  or 
dallied  through  them  at  a  very  quick  pace,  while 
the  gaping  multitude  confideied  us  as  on  a  difparch 
of  hafte  and  importar.ee — in  others,  he  entered  the 
towns  without  reierve,  and  left  it  to  chance  to  de-~ 
cide  whether  we  fhould  be  difcovered  or  not.  At 
lome  caravanleras  he  treated  me  with  affefted  neg- 
ligence, at  others  he  made  me  eat  with  him  and 
drink  wine,  Oi  which,  in  lome  places,  he  hitnfelf 
drank  copioufly,  and  at  others  as  fcrupuloufiy  re- 
frained from.  And  lomeiimes  we  lay  at  night  out 
in  i he  open  air,  rather  than  enter  a  town  ;  on 
which  oc-cafions  I  found  the  weather  as  piercing 
cold  as  it  was  diltrefsfully  hot  in  the  day  lime. 
Bred,  as  the  man  was,  a  mixture  of  Have  and,  ty- 
rant, 1  can  fuppoie  iome  parts  of  this  conduct  to 
8rife  from  capt:ce  ;  but,  as  he  was  naturally  kind, 
as  tnany  of  thole  aberrations   from  the    ufual    mode 

travelling  were  aUtended  with  hardfhip  and  in- 
convenience to  himfclf,   and  as  my  lervant  and  the 
ir  were   cleaiiy  of  opinion  he  was  right,. 
I  arri  rather    diipoied    to    believe    that    he,   on    the 

ole,    acted  from    principles    of  found  lenle  and 
policy. 

He    frequently   advifed   mc   again  ft  indulging  in 
it  was   unmanly,   indecorous,   incon- 
•  h    the  gravity  becoming  a  wiie  man.  and 

,CJrUS. 

One  evening   we  came  to  a  caravantera  much  fa- 
.  y   being  ex  rem<  ly  hot,  and  we  hav- 
rie    very    hard — whether    it   w,      caprice   or 
.  fuggeftion  of  policy  that  move 


TARTAR  GUIDE.  235 

I  cannot  fay,  but  he  was  certainly  more  cUfpofed  to 
play  the  tyrant  than  I  had  ever  before  feen  him. 
He  flogged  the  men  who  took,  the  hories,  kicked 
every  one  he  met,  made  the  houfe  ring  with  hij 
enormous  voice  ;  directed  luppej^to  be  got  ready, 
ate  growling,  and  finding  fauif^Ph  every  thing  ; 
and  under  pretence  of  difliking  the  ingiedients  of 
an  excellent  piiiaw,  handed  it  over  to  me,  faying, 
c;  Here,  Jsmmel  (the  name  he  called  mc),  here, 
take  this  filth,  and  cram  it  down  thy  coarje  throat-, 
it  is  only  fir  for  a  Frank" — I  took  it  with  bed  air 
of  humility  I  could  aflame  ;  and  tearing  the  meat 
with  my  fingers,  which  I  alio  uled  inftead  of  a 
ipoon  to  eat  the  rice,  fwaliowed  it  eagerly  ;  he 
watching  me  ail  the  time  attentively.  When  I  had 
finiihed  it,  I  gave  him  a  hint  in  the  Frank  lan- 
guage, that  I  fhould  like  to  wafh  it  down  with  fome 
wine  ;  but  he  did  not,  or  rather  would  not  under- 
stand me. 

Supper  done,  he  ordered  a  fervant  to  attend  lrrrt 
with  lome  water,  and  directed  him  to  waih  his  feet  ; 
while  that  operation  was  performing,  he  continued 
menacing  every  one  about  him.  My  fervant,  who- 
iat  next  me  and  behind  him,  interpreted  every  thing 
he  faid.  "  Yes,  ye  {Lives, "  laid  he,  as  he  lolled 
back  upon  His  cufhion,  "  yes,  I  will  make  the  bed 
of  you  wafh  ray  feet  ;  for  who  fnail  refute  to  waili 
the  feet  or  him,  who  reprelents  the  Sultan  of  the 
World,  the  Sv>n  of  Muhoinet,  the  Mcflcnger  of 
the  Lord  ?"  The  poor  fellow  proceeded  ia^his 
humble  office,  and  only  interrupted  him  by  /a^Jm  *, 
"  Blcfled  ne  my  Lord  the  lulun,  and  gK>ry  be  to- 
the  Lord  our  God,-  and  Mahomet  Ins 
"  Yes,  yes,*'  continued  my  Tartar,  '•  bleis  Gotland 
the  prophet,  and  pray  for  his  fervant  our  tulfan, 
and  all  who  lepretent  him  1  ke  me,  that  flives^f 
your  description  are  permitted  10  live  :  nay,  thou 
afh  this  Frank's  led  :"  il  -  1  rnin^  ,'o  me 
trjihau  air  of  magi  fterial    tejadsfnefs,    M  Jimmei," 


236 


CONDUCT  OF  THE 


faid  he.  tt  hold  forth  thy  feef,  and  let  them  be; 
wafhed  by  this  difciple  of  Al/ — 1  fay,  hold  iorth 
thy  feet." 

Scaiccly  able  to  refrain  from  laughter  at  this 
Bom  Sardinian  o^ihe  E'ift,  and  his  pompous  man- 
ner of  i filling  Worders,  I  drew  up  my  trowfers 
and  took  off  my  boots — the  man  brought  frelh  wa- 
tci,  and  feii  to  rubbing  my  feet*  with  great  good 
will  and  humility  ;  yet  evidently  felt  i'o  much  hurt 
at  the  humiliation,  that  1  was  ferry  for  it,  and 
would  rather  have  difpenied  with  the  wa  thing, 
though  it  was  a  luxmy. 

In  the  midfl  of  this  operation,  the  Tartar,  who 
was  j;cl:ning  on  his  Ctt&ion,  imoking.  joie  up, 
and  ftalking  two  or  three  times  acrofs  the  room, 
with  the  n  :crous  a;r  of  ieif-conccit  and   im- 

portance, took  his  tobacco  pipe  from  his  mouth, 
Lrandiihed  it  in  oftentatiojs  parad\  and  in  the  tone 
and  manner  12  her  of  one  that  wa^  raving  than  of  a 
man  in  his  fober  ienies,  burtl  out  with  anemphati- 
cal  exprefiion  of  fatisfa&ion,  and  (aid;  ;-  This  it  is 
to   be    proie&ed    by  a  great  man  :  Imen  ialani 

to  him  ana  w.lh  his  feet." 

The   extravagance   of  this    fentimenr.  the  ar 
dity   of  its    application,   and    the   conlequential    to- 

5nity    of  his   ttlion    and   countenance   while    he 
ke,   altogether  rufhed  upon  me  with  inch   impe- 
tuous fojee,   that  1  could  not  re ii tt  it,   and,   in  fpite 
of  i  effort"  to    reftrain    myielf,    bur  ft   into   an 

imn.  fit  of  laughter. 

he  pencil  of  Hogarth,  the  pen  of  Shake- 
fpeare,  or  the  powers  of  a  Garrick,  1  might  attempt 
to  g  !    his  coun  enance,   when,    turn- 

ne    cor.vu  led    with   lai  I 

l   it,   1  fa;  I  could  not  do  it  jui- 

t:c  .      Such   1  oombin  I    ludicrous  .ion 

I  neve  1      ras    indeed    an    epitome    of  ail 

I  was  rifibie  fury— it  was  fjiy    I 


TARTAR  GUIDE.  237 

rather  grinned  than  frowned  ;  though  under  it  were 
to  be  ieen  fhame  and  mortification,  iorrow  and  re- 
ientraent,  price  and  degradation,  filly  bafhrulnels 
'and  decayed  importance.  For  lome  time  he  flood 
transfixed  to  the  Ipot,  his  eyes  gliitening  like  thole 
of  a  rat  in  a  trap  ;  his  pointe^tayh  ikeis  moving 
with  the  contortions  of  his  lips,  and  his  mouth; 
every  now  and  then  opening  l;ke  tne  beak  of  a 
\v6unded  hawk.  To  utter  his  ieniations  he  was 
unable  ;  and  he  continued  in  this  ftate,  not  only 
til!  my  laughter  was  abated,  but  till  I  had  lime  to 
refi.ft  and  be  ferioufly  concerned. 

At  length,  without  iaying  a  lentence,  he  wheel- 
ed about,  threw  off  ins  dippers,  drew  on  his  boots, 
vociferated  till  he  brought  ail  the  people  of  the 
caiavanlera  about  him,  and  ordered  holies  to  be 
ready  jnftanily.  A-  orders  iiom  iuc:i  a  perton 
were  not  likeiy  to  He  diipbfeyed,  the  horfes  were?1 
got  ready.  1  law  that  I  muft  either  proceed,  or 
come  to  an  open  rupture  with  hirn  ;  lo  recohect- 
ing  that  I  was  myieif  in  Fault,  that  a  d  p*ite  might 
be  fatal,  and  thai  at  aii  events  it  was  only  the  1- 
mour  of  the  moment,  I  lre>y  on  my  boots  too, 
and  was  ready  lo  go,  though  I  was  m  ich  fitter  tot 
a  twelve  hours'  nap  than  for  3a  -hour's  travelling. 
on  horfeback. 

We  mounted  immediately,  and  it  was  my  good 
fortune  to  have  the  beft.  hoiie.  lie  let  out  ur>on 
the  gallop,  the  moon  filming  as  aright  almofi  as 
day  ;  I  put  forward  my  hoiie,  and  kept  rather  oe- 
foie  him,  which  vexed  him  lo,  that  he  bed  t.fre 
poor  animal  he  rode  on  raoft  unmeiciruily.  At  length 
after  about  eight  or  ten  miles  riding,  he  catt;^  a 
halt — demounted,  and  laid  he  would  ie(t  there  all 
night.  I  law  it  was  <h  re  lent  men  t  ;  nut  knowing 
that  it  would  be  in  vain  to  lernonitrate,  I  de- 
mounted too  ;  and,  judging  thai  the  belt  way  to 
tify  him  in  return,  was  to  comply  with  afLcfced  • 
approbation,   turned  to   my    iervant  and   told  i> 


23S*     CONDUCT  OF  THE  TARTAR,  &c. 

(knowing  that  it  would  go  from  him  to  the  Tartar) 
that  I  was  delighted  with  the  beauty  of  the  night  ; 
remarking  at  the  lame  time,  that  lying  in  the  iweet 
fa'u  j;ious  air  was  far  preferable  to  being  confined 
in  the  lultiy  hhh  of  a  catavanlera. 

As  foon  as  this^as  communicated  *o  the  Tartar, 
he  remarked,  ih.t  the  open  air  was  tfie  fitted  place 
for  the  beads  of  the  fore  ft,  and  therefore  fuitable 
to  a  Fjank  :  but  for  his  parr,  he  had  much  rather 
repoie  on  a  cufhion,  which  he  {hoard  have  dune, 
had  it- not  been  for  my  accurfed  rifible/faculti 

Here  the  converfation  refted,   and  we  fell  afleepi 

w  hours  he  awoke  us,   and    «.*  e  fet  forwi     !  : 

after   fome   paufe,   he    began    in  the  following  m;   .- 

ner,   which    was   interpreted   to  me,   as   he   ipoke, 

by  my  fervant  : 

"  Surely  God  made  laughter  for  the  derifion  and 
fhame  of  mankind,  and  gave  it  to  the  Franks  and 
the  monkies  ;  for  the  one  ha,  ha,  ha's,  and  the 
other  he,  he,  he's,  and  both  are  malicious,  mil- 
ch ievous,  and  good  for  nothing  but  to  fret  and  tan- 
talize all  that  come  acrofs  them." 

Here  lie  paufed,  as  waiting  for  fomething  to  be 
faid  :  however,  I  remained  filent.  At  length,  he- 
continued  :  li  Not  but  that,  with  all  their  laughter, 
they  have  the  wifdom  to  lake  fpecial  care  of  them- 
fe  vzs  ;  for  half  a  dozen  monkies,  will  he,  he,  he, 
£iid  empty  a  whole  orchard  of  its  fruit  in  the  reck- 
oning of  a  hundred  ;  and  a  Frank  will  ha,  ha,  har 
and  eat  you  up  pillaws  and  poult ly  like  a  wolf,  and 
drink  ut>  wine  with  ihe  lame  moderation  that  a 
oamel  drinks  up   water." 

thought  I  fhould  have  ehoaked  with  fmothered 
laughter  :  1  would  not  however  interrupt  him, 
and  (o  contrived  to  keep  it  to  myfeif  :  he  proceded 
to  apothegmar.ie  : 

"   Bin  with  all    the'.r   he,  he,    he's,  and    ha.  ha, 
ha's,   ii     I-  met  mes  turns    cut  that  they  are  c-1 
the  monkty  is  ieszed  in  a  trap  and  ca^ed  or  knot 


REFLECTIONS,  &c.  239 

ed  in~the  head,  and  the  Frank  is  put  in  jv'I,  and 
baftinadoed  or  hanged  ;  and  then  the  tune  i^  chan- 
ged, and  it  is  Oh,  ho,  ho  ]"  -H.  ie  he  began  to 
mimic  crying  fo  admirably,  and  at  the  lame  time  fo 
ridiculoufly  ;   that  I  bur  ft  out  laughing  agatp. 

"  Oblerve,  Jimmel,"  laid  he  haftily,  "  .be-ve* 
you    can't  refrain  !    Bui  by  our  holy    c  "  laid 

he  ieiioufly,  "  it  may  end  as  1  laid  :  io  look  to  your-* 
felf,  and  avoid  laughter  in  catavanferas,  or  we  : 
for  there  arc  places,  a.id  that  was  pue  of  ther 
night,  where  lulpicion  would  ruin  you.  And  if 
you  loft  your  life,  what  fhouid  1  lay  for  myieU  on 
my  return  to  Aleppo  ?  Eh,  what  fljould  I  fay  for 
myfelf  ?  Ha  ha,  ha  !  would  not  do.  No,  no,  they 
would  not  believe  it,  and  I  ihouid  lofe  my 
chan&er. " 

<;   Why  don't  you  laugh  yourfelf    ?"  faid  I. 

"  Very  feldom,  or  rather  neve:,"  rem  rud-he  ; 
Si  at  leaft  I  would  not  in  time  ot  danger.  No,  no, 
none  but  Chiiftians  and  monkies  makes  a  pra&ica 
of  laughing — Tuiksand  Tartais  are  wi:er."  I  pro- 
mi  fed  him,  thaf  I  would  u>  fu<ure  like  more  care  ; 
and,  by  way  of  appealing  him  Willi  a  ihtle  flat.ery, 
(aid,  that  he  played  his  part  fo  admirably,  it  was 
impoflible  10  red  ft  the  jmpulle.  But  h.qjanfweredi 
wiih  a  grave  face,  that  his  a£t;on  in  that  caie  was  of 
too  ferious  uature  to  be  made  a  object  of  merriment 
- — and  adviled  me  to  believe  it  .0. 


LETTER     XXXIX. 


T 

A  HE  folic itude  of  my  guide  for  my  fafety 
was  the    eaineftueis    of   a  man  of   bufineis    zealous 

the  utmoft    punctuality    the  1 
be  hau  utiueriauen  ;  and  I  muft  oblerve  to  you. 


24©  REFLECTIONS  ON  THE 

the  whole  of  his  conduft  evinced  a  precifton  and 
pui:&ua!lv  of  dealing  rarely  found  hi  out  ntetcourfo 
with  mankind.  Previous  to  It  ving  Aiep  o.  he  f  ad 
undertaken  to  convey  me  fafe — he  \v.  s,  as  \ou  may 
already  perceive,  indefatigable  and  unremitting  in 
his  endeavouts  'o  go  ;o;  he  nad  proonfed  to  iup- 
ply  me  with  foe  I —  o  he  di rl,  in  the  rrofl  ample 
manner  ;  he  promifed  i«>  -,o  as  I  pteafed  fart  or  flow 
—  fo  he  did  ;  he  prom  f  d  t<»  change  her  s  with 
me,  as  often  as  I  thought  propei  to  cleiire — he  did 
fo.  Bit  beyoi  d  this,  he  hemed  to  carry  h  -  cae 
cf  n:e  no  farther  than  lo  ;n\  bale  i>f  good?  he  -  ight 
have  in  his  chaige.  He  was  bound  to  deliver  me 
fafe,  in  good  order  a:vo  cond  u-n.  ai  B^dad  :  fo 
much  he  was  determined  to  do,  and  i.o  more  did 
he  think  of.  1  had  got  iett-  rs  to  the  bulhaws  of 
fome  of  the  towns  thi  -  to  pais  ; 

but  as  :  very  of    a  \<  iter  is,    30  the 

coftoin  of  that  country  always  ac  comparted  with  a 
prefen*,  I  tho  gut  it  better  to  decline  delivering 
then,  except  \\  ..en  necefiry  Compelled — though 
the  ft-te  or    the   country  was    to  unh  hat  we 

often  bad  occafion  for  x  gv 

As  'he  ren  flair 

was  1  little  decayed^   the   Tartar  h  nto 

gr  ir,  arc  to  falk  with  his  ultra  rce  ; 

for    m    "  5,    according   to    th<   f!   w  1  f 

fpints,  either  (ul!<  nt  01  ex 

ciou^.    His  tongi  e  might  be  cou<. d» 
mc<c:.    hv    wh'icrr   the    warmth    or    c  his 

temper  might  be  co'culated,  and  th  <  ::  lemes,  of 
^garrulity    and   taciturnity    we-ie  .      His 

c  nvniaticn.  however,  wsm  very  circuinferibed,  and 
contifKd  chiefly  of  (loi.es  of  him  cf  anu  hi;  hone, 
th*  amazing  journeys  he  maae,  and  the  ft 
hood  lie  potoftoed.  One  ciicunnlai.ee  1  mud 
juftice  mention,  as  I  thir.k  it  marks  ftrongiy  :nc  ha- 
bitual del  ;  .u  modefty  oi  ibis  pe  i  .  Al- 
though he  frequently  lumenieamy  b.  .  nt  frotn 


SLAVE  TRADE.  241 

my  family}  and  although  we  were  for  eighteen  clays 
■continually  converting  on  a  variety  of  occafions  that 
might  lead  to  the  fubjeCc,  he  never  once  talked  of 
women  ;  never,  in  all  his  pity  for  my  fituation, 
glarced  even  remotely  at  the  pofiibili'y  of  my  get- 
ting a  lubftitute  in  that  way  ;  never  hinted  that  he 
thought  of  them  himfelf.  On  feeing  women,  co- 
ming to  the  wells,  they  remined  me  of  lome  of  the 
dories  in  the  Old  Teflamcnt.  I  mentioned  it,  but 
it  went  no  farther  ;  for  whenever  the  fubjefl  was 
flarted,  he  threw  cold  water  on  it. 

That  he  conceived  me  to  be  in  fome  refpe£ts  a 
parcel  of  property,  1  have  good  reafon  to  believe  : 
for  I  obierved  that  at  fome  caravanleras  the  people 
collected  round  me,  and  regarded  me  with  ftrong 
fymptoms  of  furprife  and  pity  ;  lome  viewed  me 
with  commiieration,  fome  with  contempt  ;  but  not 
one  creature,  however  wretched  or  abject,  feemed 
to  envy  my  fituation. 

I  was  the  more  confirmed  in  this  opinion  by  an 
incident  that  happened  between  Diarbeker  and 
Moful.  One  morning  I  was  unu(uaily  overcome 
with  the  fatigues  of  the  preceding  day  :  the  Tar- 
tar called  me,  iummoned  me  to  horie  ;  and  finding 
that  I  gave  no  anfwer,  nor  fhewed  any  token  of 
awaking,  he  lifted  me  in  his  arms  bodily  from  my 
couch  (iuch  was  his  (Irength  that  he  did  it  without 
any  difficulty),  carried  me  out  without  the  leuft 
ceremony,  and,  befoe  I  was  fo  completely  awake 
as  to  be  lenfible  of  my  fituation,  had  me  fixed  up- 
on a  horle  read)  to  clepait. 

A  tran faction  lo  very  lingular,  you  may  well  con- 
clude, furpriied  me  at  the  time,  and  would  not 
readily  be  forgotten  :  fuch  a  crowd  of  fbange,  con- 
fufed,  and  incongruous  thoughts  and  ienlations  as 
occurred  to  me,  I  never  before  experienced  :  they 
were  painful, 'they  were  furpri.fi  ng — but  I  was  in 
fi'cb  a  ftate  that  I  could  not  afterwards  analyfe 
tiism.     The  chief  reflection  that  arofe  from  it  was, 

X 


242  REFLECTIONS  ON  THE 

that  human  fcntiment  mud  be  in  a  deplorable  /late 
of  degradation  indeed,  when  luch  a  ciicumftance 
could  occur  from  the  notion  that  a  man  was  as 
much  an  aflet  or  piece  of  property,  could  be  tranf- 
fcrred  by  the  fame  means,  and  moved  in  the  fame 
unfeeling  manner,  as  any  portion  of  inert  matter 
that  makes  up  a  bale  of  merchandize.  Of  the 
truth  of  this  pofition  I  had  loorf  after  a  melancholy 
proof,  in  an  incident  which,  though  lamentable, 
was  attended  with  fuch  ludicrous  circumflances, 
that  even  now  I  never  think  of  it  without  fmiling 
— -fmiling,  as  I  did  then,  with  a  heart  bleeding 
with  pity. 

One  morning  I  was  awakened  before  day-break 
with  a  buftie  in  the  caravanlera  where  we  lodged. 
I  conjectured  that  the  Tartar  was  preparing  to  get 
foiward,  and  role  in  order  to  loie  no  fine.  I  was 
io  far  right  in  my  conjectures  :  the  hoi  [e&  wexe  rea- 
cv,  and  I  came  out  to  moj^nt,  and  was  very  much 
iurpriled  to  perceive  (everal  holies  before  me 
loaded  with  fomething  which  flood  erect  from  their 
backs,  and  which  I  had  barely  light  to  dilcern 
were  not  men.  I  concluded  ihat  they  were  bales 
of  merchandize  packed  in  a  particular  fo>m,  and 
d  no  queftions  till  full  day-light  diicloled  tome 
that  they  were  human  c.eatuies  tied  up  in  lacks, 
and  fattened  aitride  on  the  holies'  backs.  Tneie 
"was  a  ftrange  union  of  horror  and  oddity  in  the 
conception,  that  ftruck  me  at  once  with'  a  mixed 
emotion  of  indignation,  pity,  and  mirth. — The 
former  however  got  the  better,  and  I  afkea  rr.y 
iervant  with  iome  warmth  what  it  meant — He  l  >:d 
that  the  lacks  contained  iome  yqupg  women  w 
the  Tartar  bad  bought.—  "  Good  God  !'•'  faid  J, 
"  is  it  pofuble  that  he  can  have  bought  wretched 
females  to  treat  them  with  fo  little  tendernels  ?" 
«  He  lias  bought  them,"  returned1  my  Iervant. 
tk  in  the  way  of  Uafcc.   not  for  picture." 


SLAVE  TRADE.  243 

"  Suppofe  he  has,"  fa'td  I,  "  fuppofe  even  they 
were  met),  not  to  mention  young  women,  how  can 
he  imagine  trtat  they  will  iurvive  this  ?  Tied  up 
and  Iweltered  in  a  lack — fattened  crois-legs,  on  a 
horfe,  and  driven  at  inch  an  arri«fe:ng  Mte  (for  by 
ti:is  time  we  had  let  forward,  and  another  Tartar 
was  whipping  the  hones  up  all  the  time,  and  dri- 
ving them  on) — how  is  it  pofiible  they  can  lur- 
viva  ?  They  mud  be  (mothered — they  mud  be 
(haltered  to  pieces — tney  rnud  tie  iii  .pped,  e:;co- 
jiated,    and  tortured  to  death  !'" 

"  If  L  might  prefarrte  to  advife,'*  faid  he,  "  I 
would  fay  that  you  rnd  belter  make,  no  remarks 
upon  it  :  it  would  only  get  them  perhaps  worie 
treated,  and  raiie  his  anger  again  it  you," 

To  conclude,  I  took  his  advice,  ami  kept  my 
mind  to  myfelf.  The  unfortunate  women  were  in 
this  manner  carried  fift^aniles,  at  the  end  of  which 
their  tender-hearted  puWnaler  difpofed  of  them  in 
lb  me  way  of  keeping  till  his  return  •,  when  I  tup- 
poie  they  wete  to  be  carried  back  in  facks  aftride 
upon  horles,  all  the  way  to  Aleopo,  there  to  hi 
fold  to  the  higheft  bidder. 

To  us,  my  Frederick.,  who  live  in  a  country 
where  an  hour's  detention  in  a  houfe  Rgainft  our 
will  is  punidied  as  unlawful  imprisonment,  and 
who  feel  and  value  the  rich,  treafure*  of  liberty 
above  all  elu.thiy  bieffings,  the  bare  idea  of  (iavery 
appears  horrible  ;  when  the  mifenes  of  fiavery  are 
iharpened  by  cruelty,  our  indignation  burns  at  the 
offence  :  but  (uch  a  complicated  piece  of  enormity 
as  that  I  have  mentioned,  almoft  tranfeernis  belief* 
and  indignation  is  ioft  in  amazement.  There  are 
but  few  men,  even  in  our  bracing  climate,  whom 
fifty  miles  riding  would  not  {hake  to  pieces,  and 
torture  almoft  to  death.  No  woman  would  think 
of  it.  But  when  to  that  is  fuperadded,  hrfl  the 
compuMio.i — then  the  forry  and  at  bed  painful 
equipage  of  the  horles — the  tender  perlons,  unac- 
cu(toiri;d  to  riding,  of  the  wcmen--the   fmoihcc- 


.244  REFLECTIONS  ON  THE,   &c. 

ing  heal  of  the  fack-— and  above  all  ihe  horrid  cli- 
mate, burning,  with  an  almoft  vertical  heat  (vertical 
.it  lead  compared  with  our  oblique  iun)-— it  will  be 
allowed  to  be  a  wonder,  almoih  approaching  to  a 
miracle,  that  they  furvived  one  half  of  their  jour- 
ney.     The  wonder- woi  king  hand  of  Omnipotence 

ne   could  bring    them    through  it  ;    and  when  I 

.  *d  in  the  evening  whether   they   v.rere  dying  or 

dead,   and    was  toid    that   they   were  not  only  alive 

in  perfeft  health,   I    could    not    help    repeating 

that  mod  beauttful   expreflion  put   into  the   mouth 

of  Maiia  by  the  inimitable  Sterne,   "  God  tempers 

wind  to  the  fide  of  the  fhorn  lamb." 

This  affair  tended  to  prejudice  me  ftronglv  again  ft 

Tartar   guide,   and  I  was   for    iome  time  that  I 

could    not    look    upon    him  without  horror:   but  at 

my  refentment  abated;   and  realbn,  resuming 

r    leal    of  c<  rifiooj^told   me,   that  though  it 

i  a  crime   and  a  g;  icvoWone,   he   was  riot  io  re- 
ble    for  it  as  thofe    who,    knowing  better,  au- 

xiied  it  by  their  concurrence,  gave  it  the  fap.&ion 
of  law,  and  made  it  familiarly  practiced;  he  only 
did  that  which  he  had  been  even  from  his  mothers 
bread  indru£ted  to  do,   and  fhouid  therefore  not  be 

ged  by  thole  rules  which  a  Briton  would  lay 
down  for  the  government  of  luch  cales. 

A  Briton  !  —  Hold  !  Have  I  not  now  been  utter- 
ing a  mod  levere  fa  lire  upon  the  BritJfh  nation  ? 
Yes!  imputing  to  men  a  virtue  which  they  want, 
is  the  woi  ft  kind  of  fatire — I    meant   it   not  at   the 

re,  but  will  not  retract  what  1  have  written — 
Britons  deferve  the  lafli  of  lathe  !  They  deserve  a 
v.orfc  lafn  :  for  the  traffic  in  human  bodies  Mill 
Hands  a  bloody  brand  of  infamy  on  her  great  na- 
tional councils*  Their  biother's  blood!  the  blood 
of  millions  of  murdered  Africans,  like  that  of 
Abel,  cries  to  Heaven  sgainii  them,  and  will  not, 
1  fear,  cry  in  vain. 


EXTRAVAGANT  CONDUCT,  &c.     245 

Great  God  ! — What  a  horrible  thought  I — what 
an  indelible  (tigma  f  that  a  legifl.uor  thai',,  in  the 
cold  blood  of  commerce,  make  a  calculation  of  the 
probable  profit  upon  human  lives — put  commercul 
expediency  in  the  balance  againd  murder — arid 
make  convenience  the  excufe  for  crime! — Why, 
t he  robber  may  do  fo  ! — But  fhall  Britons,  generous 
Britons,  who  boadful  claim  precedence  of  the 
world  in  freedom,  humanity,  and  juftice — fhall 
they  look  on  and  lee  inferior  nations  fpuming  from 
them  with  horror  the  debaiing  traffic;  and  itirnu- 
lated  by  avarice,  or  milled  by  wicked  policy,  retain 
the  blot  that  other  dales  have  wiped  away,  and 
live  at-once  the  curfe  of  one  part,  and  the  fcorn  of 
the  red  of  mankind  ? — Forbid  it  mercy  !  Forbid 
it  Heaven  ! — And  oh  !  may  that  virtuous  man, 
who;  difdaining  the  malignant  taunts  of  the  ba;e 
and  interefied.  bol.ri.Iy  fteps  forth  tha  advocate  or 
man  and  of  his  count^  ar.d  feflion  after  feflion 
iprings  from  the  couch  of  repose  which  opulence 
prelents  him,  to  break  the  fetters  and  the  Icourges 
which  improbity  and  avarice  have  forged  for  our 
fellow  creatures — may  he  fucceed  and  bear  down 
a.l  h;s  oppofers  !  aud  may  the  juftice  of  his  coun- 
try make  his  triumph  and  his  glory  as  certain  and 
complete  here,  as  the  juftice  of  tha:  Being,  under 
whole  direction  he  atti,  wHl  uoubtlels  make  them 
hereafter  ! 


LET  fER     XL, 


E 


ROM    the   confident  ions  I  have, 
pretty  fully  mentioned,    my  mind  was  by  no  m   ans 
ai.  eaie.      The  inceffant  travelling  for  fo  many  days, 

at  the  rate  of  icvev^-n   e   mile*  a  d.ty}   to    be    coa- 

X    2 


2+6        EXTRAVAGANT  CONDUCT 

tinued  I  knew   not    how  longn  increafed  my  anx- 
iety:  and  the  appreheniions  of  accident,   interrup- 
tion, and  above  all  ficknefs,  intercepting  me  on  my 
way,   haunted    my    imagination   with  all  its  tenors. 
I  was  befides  approaching  faft  to  that  region   where 
the  winds  (hike  all  living  things  that  draw  them  in. 
ihftantly   dead  :   and  conceiving  that  the  more  ex- 
peditious I    was    in    getting   over  the  journey,   the 
greater  chance  I  had  of  elcaping  thole  mifchiefs;    I 
pushed    heartily   forward,   and  urged  the  Tartar  till 
he  at  la  ft  exprefTed  his   aflonifhment   and    approba- 
tion ;   paid    me   the  compliment  to   fay,   that  I  was 
almofr.   equal    to   himfelf  for  enduring  fatigue  ;  and 
concluded  with  a  very  fagacious  lurmile,   that  in  all 
probability  I  had  been  my  lei  f  a  carrier  of  difpatches 
rig  the  Frank  governments. 
One  day  after  we  had  rode  about  four  miles  from 
a  caravanlera,  at   which  we  had  changed  our  cattle, 
I    found  that  a  moil  execrrole  bad  horie  had   fallen 
to  my  lot  :   he  was  ftifl,   feeble,   and  foundered  j   in 
COhfcquence  of  which  he  Humbled  very  much,  and 
1  every  minute  expe&ed  that  he  would  fall  and  roll 
sr  me.      I  therefore  propoted  to  the  guide  to  ex- 
in'ee    with   me:  a    favour  he   had  hitherto  never 
lefufed,   and  for  which.  1   was  the  more  anxious,   as 
the   beaLt.  he  iode  was  of  the  very   bed   kind.     To 
tr.y  utter  afronithment  he  peremptorily  refufed  ;  and 
a:   this  had  been  a  day   of  unufual  taciturn  ty  on  his 
part,    1  attributed  his   refufal    to  peevifhnels  and  ill 
per,   and    was  refolvcd  not  to  let  the  matter  reft 
e.      I    therefore  de fired    the   interpreter  to   in- 
j    him,   that    as    he    had    at    Aleppo    agreed    to 
inge    horfes    with    rne    as    often   as    1    pleated,    I 
.  ..  conlider  our  agreement  infringed  upon  if  he 
not  comply,   and  would  write  to  the   Cpnfu] 

As  foon  as  this  was  conveyed  to  him,    he  fesmed 
ftrongly  agitated  by  anger  ;   vet  endeavoured  to  c 
.  his  emotions  under  bffe&ed  contempt  and  der'.- 


OF  THE  TARTAR.  247 

fion,  which  'produced  from  him  one  of  the  moft 
fingular  grins  that  ever  yet  marred  the  human  phy- 
fiognomy.      At  length  he  bio';e  forth: 

"  You  will  write  to  Aleppo,  will  you?  Foolifh 
Frank  !  they  will  not  believe  you  I  3y  Mahomet, 
it  would  be  well  done  to  hear  the  complaint  of  a 
wandering  Frank,  againft  Haflan  Artaz---HaITan  the 
faithful  and  the  juft,  who  for  ten  years  and  more 
has  been  the  meffenger  of  an  emperor,  and  the 
friend  and  confidant  of  cadis,  bafhaws-,  and  vice- 
roys, and  never  yet  was  called  fo  much  as  liar  f 
Who,  think  you,  poor  mifguided  one  !  who,  think 
you,   would  belive  that  I  broke  my  promife  ?'r 

"  Why  do  you  not  then,"  faid  I,  interrupting 
him,  "  why  do  you  not  perform  it  by  changing 
horfes,  when  you  are  convinced  in  your  conference 
(if  ynu  have  anv)  that  it  was  part  of  your  agree- 
ment ?"—-•'  Once  for  all  I  tell  you,''  interrupted 
he,  "  I  will  not  give  up  this  horie.  There  is  not," 
faid  he  gafconadingly,  u  there  is  not  a  Muffulman 
that  ever  wore  a  beard,  not  to  talk  of  a  wretched 
Frank,  that  fliould  get  this  hoi  fe  from  under  me  ; 
I  would  not  yield  him  to  the  commander  of  the 
faithful  this  minute,  were  he  in  your  place  :  I 
would  not,  I  tell  you  Frank— and  I  have  my  own 
reafons  for  it." 

iS  I  dare  lay  you  have,"  returned  I  ;  "  love  cf 
your  eafe,  and  fear  of  your  bones." 

At  hearing  this,  he  grew  quire  outrageous---cal- 
led  Mahomet  and  Alla  to  witnefs  that  he  did 
not  know  what  it  was  to  fear  any  thing—declared 
that  he  was  convinced  that  fome  infernal  Spirit  had 
that  day  got  pofleflion  of  me---and  indeed  ieemed 
well  difpofed  to  go  to  logger-heads.'  At  length 
oblerving  that  I  looked  at  him  with  fneenng  con- 
temptuous defiance,  he  rode  up  along  fide  of  me— 
I  thought  it  was  to  ftrike,  -4od  prepared  to  rlc 
myfeif.  I  was  ho  .v  ever  mi  (la  ken  ;  he  fna'.caed  the 
reins  out  of  my  hand,  and  caught  hold  of  them 


24$         EXTRAVAGANT  CONDUCT 

colle&ed  clofe  at  the  horfe's  jaw  ;  then  fell  flogging 
my  horfe  and  ipurring  his  own.  till  he  got  them 
both  in  fall  fpeed  ;  nor  did  he  (lop  there,  but  con- 
tinued to  belabour  mine  with  his  whip,  and  to  fpur 
his  own,  driving  headlong  over  every  impediment 
that  came  in  our  way,  till  I  really  thought  he  had 
run  mad,  or  defined  to  kill  me.  Several  times  I 
was  on  the  point  of  finking  him  with  my  whip, 
in  order  to  knock  him  off  his  horfe-.-but  as  often 
patience  providentially  came  to  my  afTi fiance,  and 
whifpered  to  me  to  forbear  and  !ee  it  out.  Mean 
time  I  coniidered  mvfelf  as  being  in  fome  danger  ; 
?nd  yet  fuch  was  the  power  he  had  over  the  cattle^ 
that  I  found  it  impolTiblc  to  (lop  him  :  fo  refigning 
the  event  to  the  direction  of  Providence,  I  fufteied 
him  without  a  further  effort  to  proceed  ;  I  calling 
him  every  opprobrious  name  I  could  think  of  in 
lingua  Franca,  and  he  grinning,  and  calling  me 
D-:ivjs.  Jihafh,  Burhl  (i.  e.  hog,  £ts,  mule),  in 
rjpid  a;.d  impetuous  vehemence  of  tone  and  utter- 
ance. 

Ke  continued  this  for  a  length  of  I  dare  fay  fome 
miles,  over  an  uncultivated  tra£L  here  and  theie  in- 
terjected with  channels  formed  by  rills  of  water  in 
the  periodical  rains  •,  thickly  fet  with  low  fuiZ'*, 
ferns,  and  other  dwarf  buaies,  and  broken  uo  and 
down  into  little  hills.  His  horfe  carried  him  clean 
ever  all  :  and  though  mine  was  every  minute  ftum- 
blinz  and  nearly  down,  yet  with  a  dextetity  inex- 
preiliple,  and  a  vigour  altogether  amazing,  he  kept 
him  up  by  the  bndle,  and  I  may  lay  carried  him 
gallantly  cv"r  every  thing.  I  was  a  (ton  idled 
much  at  all  this,  and  towards  me  er.d  as  much 
fed  a:  Ched  ;    which  he  perceiving,    critc  out 

ijeqjently   and    triumphantly,     "    O,    la    1 
Heii  !    Heli  !    Frangi  !"    and  a«  lad  dr* 

s,  flopping  ihoit,    ai.o  looking  me        .    in 
face,     exc  a  med    ri    lingua    Franca, 
Frangi— Que  dice  ?" 


OF  THE  TARTAR.  249 

For  fome  time  1  was  incapable  of  making  him 
any  anfwer,  but  continued  furveying  hiin  from  head 
to  foot  as  the  molt  extraordinary  favage  I  had  ever 
beheld  ;  while  he  fhoked  his  whifkers  with  great 
(elf-complacency  and  compofure,  and  nodded  his 
head  every  now  and  then,  as  much  as  to  lay,  Ay, 
ay,  it  is  f©  I  look  at  me  !  am  not  I  a  very  capital 
fellow  ?---"  A  capital  fellow  indeed  you  are."  laid 
I,  <;  but  I  wifh  I  was  well  out  of  your  confound- 
ed clutches." 

We  alighted  on  the  brow  of  a  fmall  hill,  whence 
was  to  be  leen  a  full  and  uninterrupted  profpetl  cf 
the  country  all  round.  The  interpreter  coming 
up,  he  called  to  him  and  defired  him  to  explain  to 
me  carefully  the  meaning  of  what  he  was  about  to 
fay  ;  which  I  will  give  you  as  nearly  as  I  can  in 
his  own  words,  as  they  were  tranflued  by  the 
linguift  : 

<J  You  fee  thofe  mountains  yonder,"  faid  he, 
pointing  to  the  call  ;  M  thole  are  in  the  province 
of  KurdefiLin,  inhabited  by  a  vile  race  of  robbers 
called  Jefides,  who  pay  homage  to  a  God  of  their 
own  called  Jefid  (Jefus),  and  wo:  fhip  the  Devil 
from  Rar.  They  live  by  plunder,  and  often  de- 
fcend  from  thofe  mountains,  croft  the  Tigris  which 
runs  between  them  and  us,  and  plunder  and  ravage 
this  country  in  bands  of  great  number  and  formida- 
ble ftrenglh,  cairying  away  into  {livery  all  they 
can  catch,  and  killing  all  who  refill  them.  This 
coufttry  therefoie,  for  lome  diftbnee  round  us,  is 
very  dangerous  to  travellers,  whole  only  lafety  lies 
in  flight.  Nov;  it  was  our  misfortune  this  morning 
to  get  a  very  bad  horfe,  for  which,  pleafe  Alla 
(flicking  his  whifkers),  fome  one  fnall  receive  the 
baftinado.  Should  we  meet  with  a  band  of  thofe 
Curds,  what  could  we  do  but  fly  ?  And  if  you, 
Frangi,  rode  this  horle,  and  I  that,  we  could  neve* 
efcape  ;  lot  I  doubi  you  c  -id  not  keep  him  up 
fiom  falling  under  me,  as  I  citd  under  you  :   I  1-hould 


250        EXTRAVAGANT  CONDUCT 

therefore  come  down  and  be  taken — you  v/tfulcl 
loie  your  guide,  and  miis  your  way,  and  all  of  us 
be  undone.  Berkles,"  continued  he.  '•  there  are 
many  villages  here  where  people  live,  who,  if 
r/hey  only  lulpe&ed  you  were  a  Frank,  would  fol- 
low and  Cacrifjce  you  if  they  could  u>  Mahomet, 
and  where  of  cousle  you  mult  run  for  it." 

As  Toon  as  the  interpreter  had  explained  this  to 
me,  "  Well,'5  continued  the  Tartar,  *;  what  does 
he  lay  now  to  it  ?':  Then  turning  to  me,  and  toi- 
fing  up  his  bead — I*  Que  dice,    Frangi  ?" 

i;  Why,    I  fay,"  returned  1,  '•  that  you  have  fpo- 
^ood  fenfe  and    luund  reaion  >  and  I  am    obli- 
ged to  you." 

This,  when  interpreted  fully,  operated  mod  plea- 
v  upon  him  5  his  fea  ures  relaxed  into  a  b*oud 
look  of  i'atisfattion.  and  he  Hid  : — i;  I  will  do  every 
:  I  can  to  mike  you  eafy  and  contented  :  and 
when  I  am  obftinate,  don't  i  -u'l — for  be  a  (fared  I 
have  reafon  for  it  ;  and  above  all  things  avoid  laugh- 
ing in  my  piefencc.  But  we  fhail  reach  Molul  by 
and  bye,  and  probably  then  we  may  have  no  more 
rides."  For  I  expected  to  get  down  the  river  Ti- 
gris from  Moful  to  Bagdad,  and  had  told  him  ios 
and  lie  encouraged  me  with  the  expectation. 

That  night  we  came  to  a  caravanfera  which  lay  at 
feme  di fiance  from  a  village.  Here  the  Tartar, 
pleafed  with  himfelf  for  the  conduct  of  the  day,  and 
plea'ed  with  me  for  my  approbation  of  it,  or- 
dered a  moil  admirable  iopper  :  and  not  only,  as 
was  very  common  with  him,  rej?£f.ed  the  bed  difh 
in  order  to  prefent  it  to  me,  but  alio  fel?£led  for  me 
the  choiceft  bits  of  ihofe  upon  the  table.  He  then 
vine,  observing  thai  the  fatigue  of  a  gov- 
ernment meffengef  demanded  indulgence  :  and 
uhr.g  a  faivo  of  my  ijggefhon  on  a  former  cccafion, 
that  the  Prophet  would  not  be  offended  with 
travellers  more  than  with  the  lick  for  taking  it  as  it 
were  medicinally. 


OF  THE  TARTAR.  2$f 

We  accordingly  had  wine,  and  admirable  it  was, 
though  by  no  means  equal  to  that  we  drank,  at  the 
city  of  Diaibeker.  I  took  little  however,  and  the 
Tartar  was  much  furprifed  at  my  abftemioufnefs  ; 
-remaiking,  that  he  never  iaw  a  Frank  before  that 
was  not  a  downright  hog  when  he  got  the  cup  to 
his  lips.  My  taking  it  in  Small  portions,  while  he 
thank  it  as  we  do  table  beer,  particularly  aftonifhed 
him.  Before  he  lay  down  on  his  couch,  he  gave 
oicieis  for  horfes,  threatening  the  people  with  fevere 
caftigition  if  they  gave  bad  ones  ;  holtiiug  up  as  an 
example  the  perfon  that  gave  us  the  (tumbling  horfe 
th.t  day,  who  he  declared  fhould  be  ballinadoed  as 
foon  as  he  returned,  it  there  was  a  cadi  with  ill  ten 
leagues  of  nirn  ;  and  I  dare  to  iay  that  he  kept  his 
word   moft   reli-ioullv. 

The  next  morning  we  hid  excellent  cattle  ;  fear 
produced  wonders  among  them,  and  ;ve  let  forward 
jufl  as  the  fun  rofe.  Ai  we  entered  the  nrft  vil- 
lage. I  was  fomewhat  alarmed  by  perceiving  my 
gnidq  draw  up  his  horde — deliberate — mutter  to 
himielf — and  fee  in  rather  unealy  while  he  viewed 
a  crowd  that  was,  up  the  flreet  before  us  :  fome  of 
whom  I  perceived  to  be  agitated  with  lome  t  x'ra- 
ordinary  motions  of  the  body,  while  one  man  flood 
in  the  middle,  roiling  his  body  into  a  variety  of 
ftrange  contortions. — The  Tartar,  for  a  minute  or 
two,  leemed  to  be  debating  within  himielf  whether 
he  fhould  proceed  or  turn  about  :  at  length 
putting  me  on  his  left  hand,  he  let  forward  at  full 
Ipeed.  leaving  the  crowd  on  his  right,  who,  feeing 
the  rapidity  of  our  pace,  flew  en  one  fide,  and  let 
ds,  We  foon  however  heard  fhouting  behind 
u -.,  and  Gould  hear  plainly  the  words,  f:  Ghiaour  ! 
gi  Cucu  !"  and  looking  back,  perceived  feve- 
ral  'i^gturnen  like  lavages  purfuing  us,  lifting  (tones 
Qccaliona  -  ca fling  them  after  us  with  all  their 

t.  The  Ipeed  of  our  horfes  at  laft  got  us  out 
ot  both  fight  and  hearing  ;  and  I  plainly  perceived.. 


252  BIGOTRY. 

and  was  for  the  fir  ft  time  convinced,  that  my  guide's 
conduct  was  directed  by  found  fenfe,  fpirit,  good 
faith,  and  integrity. 


LETTER    XLI. 


T 


HE  extraordinary  occurrence  which  I 
mentioned  in  my  lad  letter  required  explanation, 
and  my  Tartar  friend  was  not  backward  in  giving 
it  ;  for  he  loved  exceedingly  to  hear  himfelf  talk, 
and,  on  anv  fubjccl:  within  1  he  compafs  of  his  know- 
ledge, was  fhrewd,  perfpicuous,  aud  even  naturally 
eloquent  :  he  had  moreover  on  that  occafion  afted 
the  part  of  a  fkilful  general  ;  and  as  I  applauded  his 
prudence  and  addrels,  he  was  extremely  kind  and 
communicative,  and  gave  me  a  full  account  of  that 
affair,  his  moiives,  his  deliberations,  and  the  ur- 
grncyofthe  cafe;  and.  irr  ffeorr,  every  thing  that 
could  elucidate  the  circumftance,  or  aggrandize  his 
own  importance.  It  would  be  a  pity  to  take  it  out 
of  his  own  words  :  I  fhali  therefore  relate  'hem  to 
you.  a?  I  ii3<i  them  through  the  medium  of  our  lin- 
guift,  for  they  made  an  lmpicflion  on  my  memory 
i:o:  er.fily  fc.  be  eiafed. 

fi  You  mud  know,"  faid  he,  ".  that  there  are 
fprcad  over  the  face  of  this  great  and  glorious  em- 
pire ?  number  of  dervifes  of  different  kinds— -holy 
men,  who  1  enounce  the  enjoyments  and  pleaJures 
of  the  world  to  converfe  with  Mahomet  and  wor- 
ship Alia.  Some  of  thofe  are  very  good  men,  in- 
deed faints,  and  never  do  any  thing  had  ;  preaching 
and  praying,  without  hurting  any  thing,  even  a  rat 
or  a  fnake  ;  nav,  they  would  not  hurt  a  Chriftian. 
There  a:e  others  again,  of  whom  I  have  heard  our 
baftiaws  and  ciTendis,  and  even  the  Maazcen,  declare 


BIGOTRY.  253 

i}fit  they  are  forbid  by  the  Koran  ;  nr.d  yet  the 
common  people  (the  lower  fort  you  know  have  no 
fenfe)  teverence  and  worth ip  them — they  are  called 
Santons  ;  live  by  themlelvss,  fometimes  under 
ground  like  rabbits,  end-  fometimes,  in  the  thickets 
and  woods.  They  go  where  they  pleafe,  take  the 
befl  feat  in  any  man's  houfe,  cram  themtelve^  with 
meat  and  drink,  and  yet  none  relift  them  ;  for  iome 
will  not,  and  others  dare  not.  Nay.  they  often 
pollute  women  in  thr  ck;<  n  ftret  ts — and  they  never 
•let  their  eyes  on  a  Gh'riftiati  01  a  Frank,  that  they 
will  not  kill,  if  poffiWe.  For  my  parr,  I  think 
that  they  ought  io  be  hanged,  every  one  of  them 
that  hud  a  head  to  he  hanged  by — or  rather  flaked 
—for  no  punifhmeiu  is  too  great  for  th^m  :  but 
1  dare  not  lay  o  in  that  town — if  I  aid,  I  fhould 
be  Atoned  to  deaih  by  the  rabble. 

"  A>  oon  as  i  perceived  the  crowd,  and  the  raf- 
ctfls  dancVng,  1  knew  th?t  they  were  (an tons,  ?nd 
was  lure  thai  tnry  wo  .  us  in  order  to  extract 

jnpney  ftotn  us  ;  in  which  cal'e  they  would  moft 
pii  bab!y  have  difcovered  you — for  they  have  the 
e\  ^s  of  the  devil.  Nothing  tlaen  corld  lave  your 
life  ;  the  crowd  would  join  mem.  and  vour  brains 
would  have  been  beat  ou;  with  Clones.  I  had  a 
mind  to  turn  back  and  go  lound  the  -own,  but  that 
might  have  canfed  fufpicioo,  2nd  got  us  pernr.ps 
inter  ccp'eJ  ;  lo  I  determined  to  pufn  by  them 
boldiy,  which  I  did,  you  can  tcftify,  like  a  brave 
man.  You  faw  enough  ydurfelf,  to  i  •  nvince  you 
of  the  danger  ycu  have  escaped,  and  cf  my  wildorn 
and  valour  ;  lei  me  therefore  entreat  you  to  be  en- 
tirely guided  by  me,  and  above  all  things  avoid  that 
accuried  propentity  to  laughter.'1 

Since  I  firft  formed  the  refolution  of  writing  this 
account  of  my  journey,  I  have  been  at  fome  pains 
to  dip  into  the  Deft  hitlories  of  that  country,  and 
I  find  that  in  every  in0an.ee  my  Tartar  guide's  in- 
formation was  coneft.     Thofe   fantoiis,    as  well  as 

Y 


2J4  BIGOTRY. 

other  dalles  cf  dervifes  and  fheihs,  travel  about 
the  country,  and  levy  contributions  on  ihe  inhabi- 
tants :  lome  are  really  what  they  pretend  to  be, 
and  ^re  as  pure  and  as  pious  as  tne  monks  of  t^e 
ptimitive  Chriitjan  church  ;  but  the  iantons  are 
monfteis,  who  ex  it  only  by  the  barbirous  cieduii- 
ty  and  more  than  iava^e  ignorance  of  rhe  lower 
order  of  .he  people — though  reprobated,  and  in- 
i.  cxec.a'ed,     ly    the    belter    lort    of   Turks. 

They  ai  ~'~  fo  be  crmentated  (whtch  v  ith  the 
M  ins  .     the  grcateft  mark  of  fanftiiy),    and 

under  covet  of  tl.^  madnefs  commit  every  excefs. 
and  enormity,  not  ms.:  ly  with  impunity,  but  with 
applaufe.  S.ch  is  the  mc: :.c'ioly  ftate  of  degrada- 
tion, to  which  the  weight  ot  ■  erftition's  chains 
bends  the  mind  of  man  !  It  is  n>  long  fince  I  had 
a  very  pleafing  difcuiilon  of  tins  extraordinary  fub« 
jeer.,  with  a  gentleman  of  mv  acq  n^xe,  for 
ofe  veracity  I  have  great  refr>e&»  i  perflation 
and  credulity  very  n.'r.MTil i)  led  U  a  cqni  ieration. 
of  the  Turkifh  religion,  and  I  expr^rfe.  v  iatis- 
facr.ion,  that  the  word  exciefcerees  of  the  Chriflian 
fchifrcs  could  not  be  compated  with  the.  Turkish, 
faith  in  their  dervifes.  He  faid,  that  he  agreed  it 
did  not  go  quhe  the  length  of  the  ianton-:  ;  but  he 
related  to  me  a  conv-M'./.on  bew ■  ::n  Jutn  and  a 
Roman  cathoiic,  not  more  than  twontly-i  ur  miles 
from  the  ^lightened  city  of  Dublin,  v.  iiich  iur- 
prjled  me  much. 

t*  I  was,"  .aid  he,  *{  when  a  youth,  very  free  in 
cenfuringaJJ  religions*  and  chic-fly  Popery  ;  for, 
be^ng  bred  among  Roman  catholics,  I  hid  the 
greater  oppou^nu.  of  feeing  their  ab!uid:;ies, 
which  I  treafared  up  as  fc  n  uch  gfrin,  without  ever 
taking  into  account  their  many  virtue-,  of  vvh: 
they  have  tlu.i    t  .">:    .      One  day  I    was  on  a  paity 

of    pleaiure,  at  a  place    ca    .6  ,    aud  in  pre- 

fence  of  a  poor  country  iolltiw  ridiculed  the  prieit- 
hood,   attiibuling  to  them  many  vices,  and  particu- 


BIGOTRY.     •  255 

larly  fornication  and  adultery.  The  man  refilled 
rrre,  and  declared  it  was  impoflibie,  Then  I  lup- 
pofe,  (aid  1,  if- a  pried:  and  a  woman  were  locked 
up  in  a  room  together  for  a  year,  and  the  woman 
in  a  week  after  coming  'forth  was  brought  to  bed 
of  a  child,  you  would  not  beiieve  it  to  be  the 
piieit's.  No,  laid  he,  I  would  not.  Then  how 
comes  the  child  ?  1  don't  know,  replied  he — any 
way  but  by  him.  In  ihort,  he  would  believe  in 
felf-impregnation,  or  preternatural  viiitation,  rather 
than  allow  a  pried  to  be  capable  of  fornication." 

<;  But,"  faid  I,  «  you  fuppoled  a  cafe— if  the 
fellow  was  fhrewd -enough  to  lay,  no  fuch  caie 
could  at  all  happen,  he  would  have  put  you  down  ; 
that  was  what  he  meant,  though  he  knew  not  how 
to  go  about  expreiling  it.    / 

The  difficulties  and  hazards  of  the  journey,  whicli 
deemed  to  thicken  upon  us  as  we  advanced,  made 
me  pant  for  a  fpeedy  conclufioti  to  it ;  and  the  ad- 
venture of  the  lad  day  opened  more  clearly  to  my 
view  the  dangers  we  had  to  encounter,  which  were 
ftill  likely  to  increafe  as  we  got  to'the  eaftward  and 
fouthward,  where  the  ¥ury  gf  bigotry  raged 'with- 
out remorfe ;  where  the  gre^|^gi^i«(t!ance*  f  r£sm*the 
feat  of  government  made  the  populace  morelaw- 
lefs,  and  the  magiftrate  more  corrupt  "and  tyranni- 
cal ;  where  the  total  ieclufion  fiom  all  ye\\  ordered 
fociety  rendered  the  manners  barbarous;  where 
ftrangers  were  feldom  feen,  and  when  feed  fleeced 
and  perfecuted  ;  and  where  particularly  1  had  rea- 
fon  to  believe,  fcarcely  any  Englifhm,tn  had  ever 
fet  his  foot  ;  and  above  all,  where  the  very  winds 
that  blew  were  charged  with  deftr*£tion,  and  car- 
red  ir.ftant  death  upon  their  wings.  1  therefore 
earneftly  longed  to  reach  Moful,  where  the  proba- 
bility was,  I  (hould  get  at  leatl  the  more  comforta- 
ble and  commodious  conveyance  of  water  carr^e 
and  where  I  might  refrefh  myieif  completely,  aiter 
the  fatigues  of  io  many  days  journey  ;  and,  if'  th^rc 


556  BIGOTRY. 

wns  occafion,  claim  a  guard  and  protection,  having 
along  with  me  a  letter  to  the  bafhaw,  which  L 
might  withhold  or  deliver,  juft  as  heft  fuited  my 
inclination  or  convenience. 

I  could  not  help  viewing  with  a  fad  and  melan- 
choly eye  my  prefent  (late  ;  wandering,  I  may  fay 
alone,  unaccommodated  and  wretched,  through  an 
inhofpitab'e  region,  and  more  inholpitable  people  ; 
where  danger  belet  me  in  a  thoufand  forms,  and  , 
every  ftep  I  took,  1  took  in  hazard  of  my  life;  and 
comparing  it  with  thole  fcenes  of  opulence  and 
comfort  which  I  had  once  experienced,  wheie  every 
lawful  w'!h  met  with  its  accomplishment  ;  where 
every  necellity  was  fupplied,  and  every  difficuhy- 
obviated  ;  where  tender  love  and  attachment  antici- 
pated every.delire  ;  and  loothed  every  care  :  where 
tie  mutual  endearments  and  reciprocal  accommoda- 
tions of  tender  relatives,  wife,  children,  faithful 
friends,  and  kindlv  intimates  gave  a  zeft  to  life, 
made  me  feel  that  my  exigence  was  of  interefl  to- 
others as  well  as  to  myklf.  and  communica^ed  a 
conicipus  importance  which  the  ilolatecl,  iohtary, 
felfifh  man  can  never  fee!  :  I  co'jld  not  help  lot-k- 
ing back  with  gi ief  and  mortification,  to  think  that 
I  once  poffVifed  thofe  bieiliags,  ana  fnouid  perhaps 
poileis  them  no  more;  but,  on  the  contraty,  might 
peiilh  unknown,  unheeded,  and  unl.m.nted,  in 
an  unknown  corner  of  the- wilds  of  an  unknown 
hoftile  country,  without  one  friend  to  iolace  or  to 
cher  me,  or  tell  to  thofe  who  loved -or  took  ihare  . 
in  my  concern?,  the  place  where  I  lay,  or  the  par- 
ticulars of  my  fate. 

Nor  in  )his  difmal  train  of  reflections  was  Aleppo 
forgotten.  It  made  the  great  connecting  link  be- 
tween my  former  happineis  and  picient  mifery  ;  it  ■ 
was,  as  it  were,  the  d:>or  through  which  I  palled 
when  I  took  my  lall  farewell  of  comfort  :  when  it 
c  led  and  fhut  me  out,  the  proipect  was  indeed 
bloomy;  nor  did  1  after  foci  one  happy  lenlatu 


BIGOTRY.  2$7 

milefs  the  convulfive  tranfports  of  a  laugh,  and  the 
boifterous  fleeting  mirth  artfing  from  the  fingulari- 
ties  of  my  guide,  which,  as  the  ("urge  raifed  by  the 
tempeft  above  its  proper  height  lifts  up  the  fhat- 
tered  bark  onlv  to  call;  it  on  the  beach  and  leave  it 
fhip-wrecked,  elevated  my  fpirits  for  the  moment 
beyond  their  proper  pitch,  to  retire  quickly,  and 
leave  them  in  the  horrors  of  ten  times  deeper 
melancholy. 

Perceiving  how  much  cafl:  down  I  was,  my 
friendly  Tartar  began  to  rally  me  :  "  Jimrnel,"  faid 
he,  ';  the  fantons  have  frightened  you  : — but  don't 
be  afraid — Hassan  Artaz  is  no  boy  :  he  can  bring 
you  through  greater  difficulties  than  thole,  fhould 
they  befall  us." 

t%  But  how  comes  it,"  faid  I,  "  Haffan,  that  you, 
who  have  lo  much  power  at  the  caravanieras,  have 
not  povvvir  to  refill  thoie  ralcally  fantons,  or  the 
mobs  of  a  village  ?" 

;;  Why,  as  to  the  mob,"  faid  he,  "  if  I  was  by 
myfelf,  or  had  only  a  true  Believer  with  me,  I 
would  m^ke  them  fly  before  me  like  the  duft  be- 
fore the  wind.  As  to  the  lantons,  no  one  can  re- 
fift them  :  the  Great,  who  hate  them,  are  obliged 
to  bow  them  re (p eft  :  and  the  bafhaw  of  Aleppo, 
nay  the  Commander  of  the  Faithful  himlelf,  could 
not  lave  you,  if  one  of  them  called  on  the  mob  to 
ftone  you,  or  tear  you  to  pieces.  However,  be  of 
good  cheer;  for,  pleare  Alla,  I  will  deliver  you 
fafe  and  found  to  the  Coja  at  Bagdad  :  befides,  we 
fhall  very  foon  be  at  Moiul  from  whence  we  wiii 
go  down  by  water,  which  will  be  very  plealant  : 
and  the  chief  danger  then  will  be  in  fair  fighting, 
which  is  better  than  being  cut  off  by  fantons. — 
Should  there  be  occafion,"  laid  he,  locking  inoft 
ferocioufly  anu  brandifhing  his  whip — :J  iliould  we 
be  attacked  by  Cuvqs  or  Robbers,  you  fhall  lee — 
vou  fhall  lee,  Jimmel — Oh  !  holy  Prophet,  how 
Til  fight!" 

Y  2 


2$S  ARRIVAL  AT  MOSU  L. 


LETTER    XL1I. 


I 


T  was  early  in  the  evening  when  the 
pointed  turrets  of  the  city  of  Molui  opened  on 
our  view,  and  communicated  no  very  unplealnnt 
fenfations  to  my  heart.  I  found  myielf  on  Scrip- 
ture ground;  and  could  not  help  feeling  fome  por- 
tion of  the  pride  of  the  traveller,  when  I  reflected; 
that  I  was  now  within  fight  of  Nineveh,  renowned 
in  Holy  Writ.-— The  city  is  fea'.ed  in  a  very  barren 
fandy  plain,  on  the  batiks  of  the  river  Tigris,  em- 
bell  ifhed  with  the  united  gifts  of  Pomona,  Ceres, 
and  Flora.  The  external  m  view  of  the  town  is 
much  in  its  favour,  being  encompafTed  with  {lately 
walls  of  foi'td  ftone,  over  which  the  fterples  or 
rr.i  narets  of  other  lofty  buildings  are  (een  with  im- 
cieaied  effect.  Here  I  fit  ft:  law  a  large  caravan  en- 
camped, halting  on  its  march  from  the  Gulph  of 
P^jfia  to  Armenia  ;  and  it  certainly  made  a  m 
noble  ?ppeaiance,  filling  the  eye  with  a  multitude 
of  grand  cbje&s,  all  uniting  to  foim  one  magnifi- 
cent whole. 

But  though  the  omfide  be  io  beautiful,  the  infide 
is  moft  detcftable  :  the  heat  is  10  intenle,  that  in 
the  middle  of  the  dav  there  is  no  (lining  out  ;  and 
the  ua!h  of  ti  e  houfes  are  io  heated 
by  the  ddv's  fun,  js  to  produce  a  diiagreeabl p  heat 
to  rhe  body  at  a    foot  or  even  a  yard  d. (tai.ee    from 

m.      How. -ver.    i  entered  it  with  i pints,   becauie 
I  coi  fi  i^ied  it  as  th     latt  it  ge  of  the  word  part  of 
zrv    pi  igt  image.      B-rt,   alaf  !    L    was  dnappom'ed  in 
my  exptftation  ;   for  the  Tigr  s  was  dried  ui   hv  I 
hi  t  :he  rvca  .  1    unutuaUy  l<>n  1  hi  ; 

ana  I   was  obliged  to  take  the  matter  with  a  \  .. 


ARRIVAL  AT  MOSUL.  259 

#mig,  and  accommodate  my  mind  to  a  journey  on 
horfeback,  which,  though  not  io  long  as  that  I  had 
already  made,  was  likely  to  be  eq/.i^lly  dangerous, 
and  which  therefore  demanded  a  full  exertion  of 
fortitude  and  resolution.— There  are  a  t:\ouiand  la- 
tent energies  in  every  man,  which  only  want  the 
powerful  voice  of  necefli:y  to  call  them  out  :  and 
now  drawn  to  the  top  of  my  bent,  1  prepared  my 
mind  to  fet  oat  in  the  morning,  with  as  much  cheer- 
fulnets  as  if  the  hopes  of  water  carriage  to  Baodad 
had  never  once  occured  to  my  mind- 
It  was  ftiif  the  hot  fealon  of  the  year,  and  we 
were  to  travel  through  that  country,  ov-r  which 
the  horrid  wind  I  have  before  n*e  flip  one  d  i  weeps 
its  con'urning  blafls :  it  is  called  by  the  Turks  fa- 
miel,  is  mentioned  by  holy  Job  under  the  name  of 
the  Eafl  Wind,  and  extends  as  ravages  aii  the  way 
from  the  extreme  end  of  the  Gulph  or  Can; 
up  to  Moful  ;  it  carries  along  with  it  fleaks  of  lire, 
like  threads  of  (ilk  ;  inilaniiy  (hikes  dead  thefe 
that  breathe  it,  ard  eon-fumes  t;:em  inwardly  to 
alhes  ;  the  flrlh  loon  becoming  black  as  a  coa',  and 
dropping  off  from  t he  bones.  Philotop  ie.is  c<  .u- 
der  it  as  a  kind  of  electric  fire,  proceeding  from 
the  iulphureous  or  nitrous  exhalations  which  are 
kindled  by  the  agitation  of  the  winds..  The  only 
pollible  means  of  efcape  from  its  fatal  efL.cts,  is  to 
fall  flu  on  the  ground,  and  theieby  prevent  the 
drawing  it  in:  to  do  this,  however,  it  is  necefJary 
fiift  to  tee  it,  which  is  not  always  practicable.. 

B.i'  be  fides  this,  the  ordinary  heat  or  the  climate 
is  extremely  dangerous  to  the  blood  and  lungs,  a;;d; 
even  to  the  (km,  which  it  bh iters  and  peels  away 
from  the  fl  :fh,  aflc&ing  the  eyes  io  much  that  tra- 
vellers are  obliged  to  >wear  a  transparent  covering 
over  them  to  k'-ep  the  heai  orf. 

That  night,  H,ifni  laid,  tua,  as  we  muft  proceed 
to  Bagdad  on  horeoack,  he  wo. Id  ltay  the  nexr  at 
Ivloiui  to  leiieiii  u&  j  which  i  objected  to  ;  he  then 


a6o  ARRIVAL  AT  MOSUL. 

fpoke  of  the  fucceeding  part  of  the  journey  as  a 
thing  of  nothing:  we  had  already  come  near  nine 
hundred  miles,  and  had  not  above  five  to  go  :  be- 
sides, as  the  weather  was  warmer,  we  would  navel 
more  in  the  night,  and  lie-by  in  the  day-time,  in 
places  with  which  he  was  well  acquainted. 

In  fhort,  the  poor  fellow  ieemed  to  take  an  in- 
terefl  in  my  fafety,  and  to  wifii  to  alleviate  the 
pains  of  my  mind  ;  and  he  always  concluded  with 
a  remonfliance  againft  laughing,  which  from  fre- 
quently hearing  I  now  underfcood  even  in  his  own 
language. — w  .Don't  laugh,  Jimmel,  don't  laugh," 
he  would  lay  with  great  iolemnity. — By  the  bye,  I 
oblerved,  that  when  he  was  well  dilpoled  to  me  he 
always  called  me  Jimmel  (a  name  which  I  prcf-une 
he  conftru&ed,  with  my  fervant's  a  iTi  fiance,  from 
the  lelemblance  of  found  between  Campbel  and 
Camel,  Jimmel  being  the  Turkifh  for  that  animal)  ; 
and  when  angry,  he  called  me  Frangi,  with  all  its 
gradations  of  Tuikifh  abufe,    Dumus,  Cucu,  &c. 

That  evening,  as  we  lat  in  the  caravantera,  a 
man  entered  and  fpoke  to  HafTan,  who  feemed  to 
pay  great  attention  to  what  he  was  laying. ---He 
was  a  well  made  man---below  the  middle  fize— and 
had  that  kind  of  countenance  which  befpeaks 
fhiewdnefs,  ingenuity,  and  mirth.  At  length  he 
retired  ;  and  foon  after  H.dfan  bade  us  rite  and 
follow  him  :  he  went  into  a  fort  of  public  room, 
where  a  number  of  people  were  collected,  fitting 
as  is  the  cuftom  in  coffee-houles  on  low  flools. 
H.ffan  pointed  to  me  to  fit  down,  which  I  did  : 
then  placing  the  Interpreter  near  us,  he  lat  himielf : 
and  Itraight  I  perceived  the  little  man,  who  had 
juft  been  ipeaking  to  him,  flep  forth  from  the 
prowd  and  begin  to  pronounce  a  fort  of  .  prologue, 
which  I  neither  underflood  nor  wifhed  to  ui.utr- 
fland  ;  it  appeared  from  his  cadences  to  be  metrical, 
and  ieemed,  by  the  little  impreflion  it  made  on  his 
auditors,  to  have  nothing  particular  to  recommend 


ARRIVAL  AT  MOSUL.  261 

it*  Ac  length,  however,  he  paufed,  and.  hem- 
ming feveral  times  to  clear  his  pipes,  begin  again 
to  hold  forth.  •'  He  is  going  to  tell  a  (lory,"  laid 
the  Interpreter,  The  attention  of  all  was  fixed 
upon  him,  and  he  proceeded  with  a  modulation  of 
tones,  a  variety  of  a£tion,  and  an  energy  of  ex- 
predion,  that  I  think.  I  have  never  heard  or  feen 
excelled  :  his  a£tion  indeed  was  fingularly  admira- 
ble ;  and  I  Could  perceive  that  he  was  occasionally 
fpeaking  in  the  tones  of  a  man  and  a  woman  :  in 
which  latter  character  he  gave  a  picture  of  whining 
ludicrous  diltrels,.  that  moved  the  rifible  mufcles 
of  all  the  company.  I  looked  at  HalTan.  and  he 
was  grinning  as  merrily  as  could  any  monkey  or 
Frank  in  Afia.  The  Linguift  occ*liouaily  inter- 
preted what  the  (lory-teller  was  laying  •,  and  I  iocn 
began  to  fufpett  that  it  was  a  ftofy  I  had  more  than 
once  read  in  the  Arabian  Nights,  though  altered, 
and  in  fome  meaiure  dramatized  by  the  Ipeaker.  I 
looked  leveral  times  archly  at  HaiTm,  and  he  re- 
turned my  glance,  as  much  as  10  lay,  You  lee  I 
don't  laugh  at  all  this.  At  length,  however,  the 
orator  came  to  a  part  where  he  was  to  mimic  a  poor 
little  hunchback  (for  I  now  discovered  rt  to  be  the 
ftory  of  little  Hunch-back)  choking  with  a  bone  1 
he  threw  up  his  back  ;  lqueezed  till  all  the  blood 
in  his  body  feemed  colle&ed  in  his  face,  his 
eyes  rolled  in  their  fockets,  his  knees  knocked,, 
he  twilled  and  folded  his  body,  putting  his 
fore- finger,  and  thumb  into  his  throat,  and  pull- 
ing with  all  his  might,  as  if  to  pull  (omething 
out  :  at  length  he  grew  weaker,  ftretched  his 
arms  down,  and  his  lingers  back,  like  thoie  of  a 
perfon  (tranggl:  ng—  -kicked,  fell,  quivered,  and 
died.  It  is  impoflihle  for  any  delcription  to  do 
juftice  to  the  perfection  of  his  acting  ;  and  what 
rendered  it  the  more  extraordinary  was,  that  though 
it  was  a  fcene  of  death,  and  well  acted  death,  lie 
taued  to  render  it  l'o  ludicrous  in  ctrcumltances,. 


&fo  ARRIVAL  AT  MOSUL. 

zs  to  fufpend  the  audience  between  a  laugh  £nd 
crv.  They  did  not  remain  long  fo  ;  for  he  ludden- 
bounifed  up,  and  began  the  mofl  doleful  lamen- 
tation of  a  woman,  and  exhibited  fuch  a  fcene  of 
burleiq'ie  diitreis  as  1  never  witneifed.  All  burft 
out  in  torrents  of  laughter,  HaiTan  as  well  as  the 
reft---!  alone  remained  purpoiely  lerious  ;  and  the 
orator,  according  to  cuftora,  broke  off  in  the  mid- 
dle of  an  interesting  fcene. 

When  we  returned  to  the  caravan fera,  I  rallied 
the  Tartar  on  the  fcore  of  his  laughter  :  he  growled, 
and  faid,  "  who  could  avoid  it  ?  Whv  did  not  you 
lau^h  as  you  were  wont  ?'"' — "  Becaufe,"  faid  I, 
*''  he  did  not  aft  as  comically  as  you." — M  No," 
returned  he,  '*  but  becaufe  Franks  and  monkies  on- 
ly laugh  for  rr.ifchief.  and  where  they  ought  not* 
No,  Jimmel,  you  will  never  fee  me  laugh  at  mif- 
chief." — **  What,"  faid  I,  M  not  at  a  poor  man's 
being  choked  to  death  !" — "  Nay,"  faid  he,  **  I 
feldom  laugh,  Yet  I  could  not  avoid  it  then."  That 
very  hour,  however,  a  puppet-fnow  was  exhibited 
in  the  lame  room,  and  my  grave  guide  laughed  till 
the  tears  ran  down  his  cheeks,  and  his  voice  funk 
into  a  whining  treble.  Kara  ghufe  was  certainly 
extravagantly  comical,  though  filthy  ;  and  frighten- 
ed a  c*di  with  a  whole  troop  of  Janiffaries,  by  letting 
fly  at  them  a  (hot  or  two — a  parte  peji 

The  next  day  we  fet  out  well  mounted,  and  pufh- 
cd  on  with  renovated  lpirits  towards  Bagdad. -- 
Ha  {fan  could  no  more  have  the  affurance  to  cenfure 
laughing  and,  as  I  was  little  difpoted  to  do  it  in  time 
of  danger,  we  were  likely  to  agree  well.  In  fhort, 
we  began  to  like  one  another's  company  ;  and  if  I 
brought  him  to  be  a  greater  laugher  than  he  ufed  to 
be,  he  gave  himfelf  the  credit  of  having  made  me 
much  more  ferious  than  I  had  been  before — I  pro- 
fited by  his  inftrucVons. 

It  would  be  an  effort  as  idle  and  fruitlefs  on  my 
part,  as  unentenaining  and  uninterefting  on  you 


ARRIVAL  AT  MOSUL.  263 

to  attempt  to  give  you  a  regular  detail  of  our  pro- 
gress from  Moful  to  Bagdad  ;  the  lame  general  cau- 
tions were  obierved,  with  the  fame  occasional  re- 
laxations. K..ir.'i  iiiil  continued  to  treat  me  with 
a  repetition  of  h'.mfeit  and  his  horfe,  his  own  feats 
and  hi&horfe's  feats  ;  to  be  filen!  when  ill-tempered, 
and  Loquacious  when  gay  j  to  flog  the  attendants  at 
the.  carr.vanieras  ;  order,  the  belt  horfes,  and  eat  the 
be  ft;  v.cruals,  and  to  give  me  the  bed  of  both  ;  and 
finally  we  had  our  fallings  out  and  fallings  in  again  : 
but  I  had  not  the  mortification  ot  ieeing  any  more 
women  lied  in  facks  on  horfe's  backs,  and  excoria- 
ted with  a  ride  of  fifty  miles  a  day. 

As  we  rode  along  we  overtook  feveral  times 
ftraggling  oallenders,  a  kind  of  Mahomedan  monks, 
profefs  poverty  and  great  fanctity  ;  they  were 
d  re  fled  all  in  rags,  covered  with  filth,  carried  a 
gourd,  by  way  of  boitle,  for  w  t:r — I  prefume 
Comet  m.s  for  wine  too — and  bore  in  their  bands  a 
long  >ole  decorated  with  rags,  and  pieces  of  cloth. 
or  v  nous  colours.  T^ey  are  luppoted  by  the  vul- 
gar to  have  (upernatural  powers  :  but  Haflan,  who 
Jeemed  to  have  caught  ail  his  ideas  from  his  betters, 
cxpjefled  no    fort  oi  won  of  them  ;    \\?falam'd 

to  them  and  gave  the.::  none-y,  however.  It  was 
extraordinaiy  enough,  tint  they  were  all  in  one  fie- 
ry— all  were  going  on  a  pilgrimage  to  Mecca — or, 
as  they  cali  it,  Hadje. 

As  loon    as    ever  v/e  got   oat  of  their   figV.:   and 
hearing,    HafTan     fhook     his    head,      and    repeated 
w   Hadje,    Harlje  !:?   feveral  times  doubling!-/,    and 
grinned,  as   he  v  as  accuftomed  to  do  when  he   was 
diipieaied,   without    being  able    to    manifc*'. 
"   Hadje    !"   he  would   cry,   '■    Hadje,  ~H 
afked  him  what  he  meant  ;v.nd  h(    laid,    that    thefe 
fellows  were    no  moie  going  fo  Mecca   than  I  was. 
(l  I  have  a  thoufand  and  a.tho  wind  time  5"  (aid 
u  met    calenders  on  the    road,  and    always    found 
them  facing  towards  Mecca.     If  1  am  going  fouth- 


264  ARRIVAL  AT  MOSUL. 

■ward,  I  always  overtake  them  ;  if  northward,  I 
meet  them  ;  and  all  the  time  they  are  going  where- 
ever  their  bufinels  carries  them.  I  overtook,"  con- 
tinued he,  "  pne  of  them  one  day,  and  I  gave  him 
alms  and  pafled  him  by  ;  he  was  coming  he  faid, 
after  me,  towards  Mecca  :  but  I  halted  on  purpole 
for  a  day,  and  he  never  pafled  ;  and  a  merchant 
arriving  at  the  fame  caravaniera  informed  ire,  he 
had  met  the  very  fame  fellow  four  leagues  farther 
noithwaid  ;  who  had  aniwered  him  with  the  fame 
(lory,  and  ftill  had  his  face  turned  towards  the 
fouih." 

Fifty  years  ago,  ro  man  in  Turkey  would  have 
dared  to  hold  his  language  ;  hut  every  clay's  tx- 
pc 'er.ee  evinces  that  the  light  of  reafon  l-jreaus  its 
rays  f.. it  through  the  worlu — even  through  Turkey  ; 
2r:<~i  ft.;;,  fh.es  a  well  founded  hope,  that  in  another 
half  century  even  rr.or»4clfh  impoftoi  (I  mean  real 
im,''it<jt.)  whether  they  he  Mahomedari  mo.  ks, 
01   GhiiO  an    ri  !  be  chafed    fron     fo<   rty, 

£i»a  forced  to  apply  to  honed  means  lor  fnbuiienoe. 


END    OF    PART    II. 


A 

JOURNEY  TO  INDIA,  Sec 


PART     III. 


LETTER    XLIII. 


My  Dear  Frederick, 


A, 


-FTER  paffing  thiough  an  immenfe  tm£t 
of  country,  diibnguifhed  by  nothing  that  could 
ferve  even  as  a  circumltance  to  mark  and  remember 
our  riaily  journeys,  but  which  I  obferved  to  grow 
tnan-fe  fitly  worle,  both  in  lbil  and  climate,  as  wc 
proceeded  Southward,  we  came  in  fight  of  the  fa- 
mous city  of  Bagdad,  on  the  ieventh  day  from  that 
on  which  we  left  Moiul,  and  on  the  eighteenth 
frem  that  of  my  depaiture  from  Aleppo  ;  in  which 
eighteen  diys  we  had  rode  fourteen  hundred  miles, 
partly  through  a  route  which  no  European,  I  have 
realon  to  bcheve,    ever  took  before. 

On  entering  the  city,  I  defired  my  guide  to  con- 
duct me  to  the  houle  of  a  Merchant,  to  whom  I 
had  got  letters  of  credit  £nd  introduction.  He  took 
me  accordingly  through  the  windings  of  feveral 
ftreets.  and  at  laft  flopped  at  the  door  of  an  Arme- 
nian Merchant,  or  Coja,  where  he  made  me  alight, 
and  come  in.  I  was  received  with  great  politenefs ; 
and,  on  producing  my  letter,  found  that  he  was 
not  the  perlon  to  whom  it  was  chre&sd  ;  I  accord- 

Z 


266  ARRIVAL  AT  BAGDAD. 

ingly  made  a  fuitable  apology,  and  was  for  retiring 
to  find  the  houfe  of  the  proper  perfon,  for  which 
purpoie  the  Armenian  offered  me  a  fervant,  when, 
to  my  great  aftonifhment,  my  Tartar  interfered  ; 
laid  that  it  was  to  this  Merchant  he  brought  all  his 
goods,  and  that  I  muft  remain  where  I  was  ;  at  the 
fame  time  ordering  the  Armenian,  in  a  peremptory 
tone,  to  take  charge  of  me,  and  ufe  me  well.  It 
Was  in  vain  that  the  Armenian  endeavoured  to  ex- 
plain to  him  the  nature  of  the  bufinefs,  aud  that  I 
infilled  I  muft  go  to  the  other  Merchant — Hassak 
was  peremptory,  and  declared  that  I  fhould  not. 
It  was  fo  extiemely  outre  and  ridiculous,  that  I 
could  not  be  angry  ;  and  the  good  Armenian  unit- 
ing his  voice  with  that  of  the  Tartar,  and  entreat- 
ing me  to  favour  him  with  my  company,  I  acqui- 
cfced,  and  indeed  remained  in  his  houle  all  the 
time  I  was  at  Bagdad.  This  was  proof  pofitive,  if 
any  other  than  1  alieady  had  was  wanting,  that  he 
considered  me  merely  as  a  piece  of  merchandise, 
which  he  was  bound  (according  to  the  language 
of  Merchants)  to  deliver  in  good  order  and  con- 
dition. 

I  had  undertaken,  before  leaving  Aleppo,  to 
give  the  guide,  if  he  afted  conformably  to  my 
wifhes,  and  behaved  well,  twenty  pounds  over 
and  above  the  hundred  provided  by  the  agreement : 
1  therefore  fentior  him,  to  fettle  finally,  and  part. 
He  had  heard  that  I  was  a  perfon  different  from 
what  he  had  iuppoled  me  to  be  :  but  it  did  not 
alter  his  conduft,  as  might  be  expe&ed,  or  make 
him  floop  to  cringing;  he  if  ill  fpoke  with  the  fame 
honeft,  bold  familiarity ;  and  when  I  gave  him  the 
promifed  twenty  pounds,  he  never  hinted,  cringed 
for,  or  even  looked  as  if  he  expected  more  :  but 
when  we  came  to  part,  the  feelings  he  diiclofed, 
and  ^hofe  I  myfelf  felt,  convinced  me,  that  Man 
is  not  naturally  that  brute  which  prejudice  lias 
made  him  :  and,  when  left  to  his  own  operations, 


ARRIVAL  AT  BAGDAD.  l6y 

tne  human  heart  would  be  uniformly  kindly,  affec- 
tionate, and  fympathetic  :  the  poor,  rough,  uii- 
polifhed  Turk,  betrayed  the  ftrongeft  marks  of 
ienfibility,  and  I  myfelf  once  more  felt  the  uneaft- 
nels  of  parting. 

I  think  this  is  the  proper  place  to  give  you  my 
opinion  of  the  Turks,  while  the  recollection  of 
honed  Hassan  is  frelh  in  my  mind  ;  and  I  cannot 
do  it  better  than  by  quoting  the  words  of  an  excel- 
lent French  Writer — 

•'  The  Tuiks  (fays  M.  du  Loir)  are  naturally  a 
good  people,  which  is  not  to  be  afcribed  to  the  cli- 
mate ;  for  the  Greeks  born  in  the  fame  climate  have 
very  different  difpofitions,  and  retain  only  the  bid 
qualities  of  their  anceflors,  v:z.  roguery,  tre.nchciy, 
and  vanity.  The  Turks,  on  the  contrary,  priding 
themfeLves  on  their  integrity  and  modefty,  are  dit- 
tirguifhed  in  general  by  an  open,  ingenuous  fim- 
plicity  of  manners;  courtiers  only  excepted,  who, 
in  Turkey,  as  every  where  elfe,  anr  the  Haves  of 
ambition  and  avarice." 

The  name  of  Bagdad  has  been  fo  renowned  in 
Eaftern  tlory,  and  is  the  fcene  of  fo  many  of  thola 
bewitching  tales  which  we  find  trarfhted,  or  pre- 
tended to  be  tranfhted,  from  the  Arabic  and  Per- 
llan,  that  I  felt  great  pleafure  in  feeing  it,  and  con- 
ceived myfelf  to  be  at  the  very  fountain-head  of 
marvellous  adventure  and  romance.  Fraught  with 
this  idea,  I  was  impatient  to  go  forth  into  the 
town  ;  and  notwithstanding  the  weather  was  ba- 
yond  conception  hot,  I  paraded  a  number  of  flreets  : 
but  never  did  I,  in  the  courfe  of  my  life,  lee  a 
place  fo  calculated  to  belie  the  opinion  one  would 
form  of  it  from  the  eaftern  tales.  It  appeared  to 
me  to  be  among  the  moft  difagrecable  cities  of  the 
world,  and  has  no  one  circumftancc  that  I  could 
difcover  to  recommend  it  :  the  heat  is  fo  great, 
that  in  the  Summer-time  the  inhabitants  are  forced 
to  keep  their  markets  in  the   night,    and    to   lie 


268  ARRIVAL  AT  BAGDAD. 

all   night   in   the  open  air,  on  the  terraces  of  th»ir 
hou  fes. 

The  Armenian  with  whom  I  refided,  did  every 
thing  in  his  power  to  render  the  place  agreeable  to 
me  ;  and  1  fhall  always  retain  a  lively  fenfe  of  his 
gpoclnefs  and  hofpitality  :  he  was  not  only  generous 
and  polite,  but  well  informed,  and  pleaffng  in  con- 
verfation.  I  took  occafion  to  exprefs  to  him  the 
difappointment  I  felt  at  finding  Bagdad  Uj  very  dif- 
ferent from  what  I  expected  ;  and  told  him  that  I 
had,  when  a  youth,  learned  to  think  highly  of  itK 
or.ather  romantically,  from  reading  Ealtern  tales. 
This  led  to  a  converlation  on  the  Arabian  Nights 
Eitertainments,  a  copy  of  which  he  had  in  the 
Arabic,  and  produced  it  :  he  then  fhewed  me,  with 
great  triumph,  a  French  translation  of  them,  print- 
ed at  Paris,  which  he  had  read,  and  declared  that 
the  transition  was  nothing  at  all  in  comparison 
with  the  original.  I  believe  he  was  well  qualified- 
to  judge  j   for  he  was  a  periect  mr.ir.er  of  the  French 

H^Wc  talked  of  the  Eaftern  tale  of  the  Glafs  Man,, 
who,  in  a  reverie,  inci  talcs  his  (lock  till  he  gets 
fo  rich  as,  in  imagination,  to  marry  the  Cadi's 
ighter,  &c.  &c.  and  in  kicking  his  wife,  kicks 
aril  his  glaffes  about,  and  deftroys  the  whole  of  his 
vifionary  foit  une.  I  praifed  the  humour  of  it  much 
— *;  Sir,"  Idid  he,  "  there  is  nothing  in  it  that  nuy 
not  be  experienced  frequently  in  actual  life  :  ihofe. 
waking  dreams  are  the  ulual  concomitants  of  opium  :. 
a  mm  who  has  accuftomed  himieif  to  the  pernici- 
cious  pr.£tice  of  eating  opium,  is  conftantly  lub- 
j  61  to  them..  I  have,  in  the  courie  of  my  time,. 
round  a  thoufand  of  thole  dreamers  holding  forth 
in  I  iiude   of  imaginaiy  powei.      I  have  feen 

a  common  por:er  become  Cadi,  and  order  the  bafti- 
nado.  i  have  ieen  a  wretched  tailor  railed  by  the 
.effects  01  opium  to  the  office  of  Aga  of  the  Janil- 
tarieiSj  denoting  the  Sultan,   and  ordering  the  j:v- 


ARRIVAL  AT  BAGDAD.  269 

firing  to  all  about  him.  I  have  feen  fome  indulg- 
ing in  the  blandifhmerits  of  love  with  Prihceffes, 
and  others  wallowing  in  the  wealth  of  Gclconda. 
But  the  mod  extraordinary  vifionary  of  this  kind 
I  ever  met  with,  was  one  who  imagined  himfelf 
tranfbted  to  Paradife,  co-equal  to  Mahomet,  and 
fitting  by  the  fide  of  thar  prophet,  arguing  with 
him  in  defence  of  the  uleof  wine  and  opium  :  he 
argued  mod  ingenioufly,  lidened  in  lilence  to  the 
fuppofed  arguments  of  his  adverfary,  -  anfwered 
them,  replied,  rejoined,  and  dill  argued  on — till, 
growing  at  la  ft  angry,  he  fwore  that  he  was  as  good 
a  prophet  as  him,  did  not  care  a  fig  for  him,  and 
called  him  fool  and  falfe  prophet.  A  Turk,  who 
was  prelent,  in  the  fu!nefs  of  his  zeal,  laid  a  flick, 
very  heavily  acrofs  his  thoulders,  and  put  an  end 
to  the  vilion  :  and  never  did  1  fee  a  wretch  fo 
abjeft,  fo  forlorn,  or  lo  miferably  defponding  ; 
he  put  his  forehead  to  the  ground,  which  he  wet 
with  his  tears,  crying,  Mercy,  Mahomet  !  mercy, 
holy  Prophet  !  mercy,  Alia  ! — nor  could  he  find 
relief  (luch  is  the  ruin  of  opium)  till  he  got  a  frefh 
fupply  of  it  in  his  mouth,  which  foon  gave  him  a 
temporal y  relpite  from  the  horrors  of  his  fi  tuition." 
Unqueftionably,  Bagdad  was  once  a  great  city, 
of  flouiifhing  commerce  ;  but  the  Sultan  Amu- 
rath  the  Fourth,  when  he  made  himfelf  mailer 
of  it,  put  the  richefb  Merchants  fettled  there  to 
death  ;  and  it  has  ever  fince  gradually  declined. 
About  two  days  journey  from  it,  lie  the  ruins  of 
the  once  famous  city  ot  Babylon.  1  was  much  dif- 
poled  to  go  to  fee  it,  and  thence  drop  down  the 
Euphrates  to  B^flTora  :  but  my  Armenian  hod  told 
me  theie  was  nothing  in  it  to  recompenfe  a  perfori 
for  half  the  trouble  ;  for,  of  that  magnificent  city, 
which  was  fixty  miles  in  circumference,  wh>cii 
was  encompailed  with  walls  eighty-feven  feet  in 
thicknefs,  and  three  hundred  and  fifty  in  height, 
nothing  was  to  be  feen  but  the  bare  foundations  of 

Z  2 


2JQ  ARRIVAL  AT  BAGDAD. 

fome  great  edifices.  The  Tower  of  Belus,  and  tha 
Palace  of  Nebuchadnezzar,  lie  with  the  reft  in  un- 
did in guithed  ruin.  The  greateft  curiofities,  then, 
were,  in  the  firft  place,  the  ruins  of  a  building 
faid  to  be  the  famed  Tower  of  Babel,  which  ap- 
peared te  have  been  half  a  league  in  compafs  ;  and 
the  remains  of  a  vafl  bridge  over  the  Euphrates,, 
where  it  is  half  a  league  broad. 

I  was  not  more  anxious  to  arrive  at  the  city  o£ 
Bagdad  than  I  was  to  leave  it  ;  and  having  written; 
letter?,  and  put  them  in  a  way  of  being  forwarded 
to  Europe,  I  took  leave  of  my  friendly  hofpitabie 
Armenian,  and,  with  a  thouland  acknowledgments. 
for  his  kindneis,  let  out  on  horleback  to  a  place  oa 
the  Tigris,  where  I  embarked  in  a  boat,  in  order, 
to  proceed  to  BaiTora.  This  river,  known  fince, 
the  firft  records  of  human  exiftence  by  Gepgra- 
pliers,  is  remarkable  for  its  rapid iiy,  whence,., 
Pliny  fays,  it  has  the  name  of  Tigris,  (in  the 
Median  language,  a  dart)  ;  and  for  its  extraoidinary 
courfe,  which  is  in  many  places  under  ground,, 
riles  in  Armenia,  finks  into  the  earth  near  mount. 
Taurus,  and  runs  under  a  mountain — then  rifing  at 
the  other  fide,  follows  its  courle  through  the  lake 
Theipites — again  finks  frequently  under  ground, 
and  continues  hid  at  one  time  for  a  {pace  of  twen- 
ty-five miles  •,  where,  once  more  emerging,  it 
glides  along  with  a  very  rapid  ilream.  meets  the. 
Euphrates  at  a  place  called  Korna,  paries  ihiou^h 
B«ffora,  and  falls  into  the  Per  flan  Gulph.. 

As  the  boat  in  which  I  took  my  paffage  had  no> 
convenience  for  excluding  the  violence  of  the  fun,, 
except  an  awning,  I  fuffered  extremely  from  the 
heal.  The  River  itfelf  was  grand  ;  but  the  banks,, 
and  contiguous  country,  contained  nothing  to  <»t- 
iTcGt  notice — no  obje£l  to  diver  (if w  the  dreary,  de- 
fer: ed  afpect  of  the  [cene — nothing  to  afioid  room. 
for  itfi-ci.on.  or  give  biith  to  a  new  idea,  1  do 
not   remember  to  have  ever  pafied  through  luch  a 


ARRIVAL  AT  BASSOR A.         27? 

vaft  extent  of  country,  fo  uniformly  dull  and  unin~ 
terefting.  The  only  thing  that  ierved  to  keep  the 
mind  alive,  was  the  apprehenfion  of  robbers,  who, 
in  great  numbers,  hover  over  this  river,  and  plun- 
der  paffengers.  We  had  taken  care,  on  leaving 
Bagdad,  to  be  well  provided  with  fire-arms  ;  and 
they  did  us  yeomen's  fervice — for  we  were  fre- 
quently attacked  by  robbers  with  a  view  to  plun* 
der,  but  found  that  a  {hot  or  twodifperled  and  fent 
them  off  in  confternation*  One  night,  however, 
in  palling  a  creek,  we  perceived  (everal  boats  iffu- 
ing  from  it,  in  gieat  order,  and  in  a  manner  that 
evinced  method  and  premeditation  1  we  fiiently 
prepared  for  their  reception,  and  were  completely 
ready  to  meet  them  warmly,  while  they  thought  us 
quite  unprepared,  and-  unconicious  of  their  ap- 
proach :  they  fir  ft  endeavoured  to  board  us  by  fur- 
pnfe  :  wifhmg  rather  to  frigh'en  than  to  kill  them, 
we  began  by  firing  over  their  heads  ;  on  which  they 
let  up  the  moft  horrible  fhouts,  and  rulhed  on  with 
a  tumultuous  rapidity,  making,  the  moft  terrible, 
noife  in  order  to  intimidate  us  :  they  were  by  this 
time  quite  near  us  ;  we  therefore  took  aim  at  them,, 
and  let  fly,  and  immediately  perceived  them  in  great 
confufion,  fome  of  the  boats  lofing  their  helm,  and 
falling  with  the  dream  on  the  others  :  at  la  ft  we 
faw  them  fheer  off,  and  they  gave  us  no  farther 
trouble. 


LETTER    XLIV, 


A, 


FTER  eight  or  ten  as  difagreeable  days 
as  I  remember  to  have  fpent  in  my  life,  weakened 
with  ineeifarit  watching,  hsfcrtfTed  with  bodily  fa- 
tigu4|  and    melted  with  the    CKceflivs  heal  of  the 


27^  ARRIVAL  AT  BASSORA. 

fun,  I  arrived  at  the  c;ty  of  BafTora,  where  I  was 
received  with  the  utmoft  holpitality  by  Mr.  La- 
touch  e,  the  Company's  Refident  from  Bombay, 
who  aid  every  thing  poflible  for  my  accomodation, 
and  procured  me  every  inftruftiori*  refpc&ing  my 
further  progrefs. 

This  city,  as  well  as  Bagdad,  is  famous  in  mar- 
vellous flory.  The  country  about  it  is  confidered 
by  the  natives  as  the  bed  fpot  in  Afis,  though  the 
burning  winds  annoy  and  frequently  deftrov  tra- 
vellers, overwhelming  them  with  mountains  of  hot 
fand,  driven  like  waves  of  the  fea,  before  the  tem- 
peft  out  of  the  neighbouring  deferts.  It  carries  on 
a  great  trade,  and  is  inhabited  by  vaft  numbers  of 
Christians  and  Jews.  The  Englifh  and  Dutch  have 
factories  here,  ss  well  for  the  purpole  of  commerce, 
as  the  t  ran  fit  of  difp^tches,  by  way  of  Damafcus  and 
Aleppo,  tu  Europe.  The  Richeft  rnerchandile  of 
India  and  Europe  are  brought  here  in  caravans  ; 
and  its  opulence  is  greatly  incieafed  by  the  caravans 
of  Pilgrims,  who  pafs  through  it  o n  their  way  to 
Mecca,  and  pay  great  duties,  battering  for  many 
rich  commodities.  The  holies  of  this  place  are  ce- 
lebrared  for  their  fu  per  for  excellence  :  it  is  laid 
that  they  will  run  thirty  hours  without  meat  or 
drink — I  doubt  the  fsrftj  and  {hould  be  (buy  to  fee 
fo  inhuman  an  experiment  tried. 

One  comfortable  cucumflance  attending  BafTora 
is,  that  at  night  the  (beets  may  be  walked  with 
per  feci:  fafety  at  all  hours.  It  is  fubject  to  an  Arab 
Prince,  who  is  tributary  to  the  Tuik,  and  whole 
revenue  is  very  great,  as  well  from  the  above-men- 
tioned caules,  as  becaule  he  gives  full  liberty  to  all 
Nations  to  come  and  trade  to  his  capital. 

From  BalTora  I  took  my  paflage  in  a  date-boat 
going  to  Muflcat,  expecting  to  get  from  thence  a 
fpeec'y  pa  Mage  to  Bombay  :  but  the  boat  ipiung  a 
leak  at  lea,  and  we  were  obliged  to  run  into  Bui- 
heer,  where  I   was  very  hol'ptubly  received  and 


ARRIVAL  AT  BASSORA.  275 

entertained  by  Mr.   Galley,  the   Company's  Rc- 
fident. 

There  really  feemed  to  be  an  unufual  fatality  at- 
tending me  throughout  the  whole  of  my  journey.. 
You  will  recollect,,  in  the  firft  inftance,  I  was  pre- 
vented, by  the  war  with  France,  from  going  by 
the  direct  route  which  I  fhould  otherwise  have 
taken,  and  obliged  to  pafs  through  the  Low  Coun- 
tries and  Germany — In  the  next  place,  at  Venice 
I  was  dilappointed  in  obtaining  a  palTage  to  Lata- 
chaea  ;  and,  immediately  on  the  heels  of  that,  loft: 
my  fervarjt  at  Triefte,  by  fending  him  for  letters  to 
Venice — Afterwards,  when  I  had  gone  to  Alex- 
andria with  expectation  of  travelling  through  Egypt, 
and  viewing  that  interefting  part  of  the  world,  I 
found  myfelf  prevented  by  the  unhappy  circum- 
ftances  of  the  country — he  pkague  raging  in  Alex- 
andria, and  all  the  roads  being  blocked  up  by  an 
incurfion  of  the  Arabs..  Thus  mortified  and  dis- 
appointed, I  turned  about,  in  order  to  make  my 
way  in  another  direction  ;  and  arriving  ac  Cyprus, 
found,  to  my  infinite  furprite  and  regret,  that  an 
epidemic  difeafe,  little  fhort  of  the  plague,  pre- 
ra  led  there,  a/id  fwept  off  the  inhabitants  in  great 
numbers  :  when,  after  lurmounting  all  thole  obibt- 
cles,  I  arrived  at  Aleppo,  the  firft  information  I 
got  was,  that  the  caravan  was  gone,  and  that  it 
would  he  a  long  time  before  another  would  be 
ready  ;  and  my  departure  from  Aieppo  was  attended 
with  ci  ream  fiances  no  lefs  inaulpicious  than  my  en- 
trance— At  Moiul  I  experienced  another  di {ap- 
pointment, by  the  river's  being  dried  up,  and  ren- 
dered imptacVcable  by  boats — My  paflage  from 
Baffora  to  Mulkat  was  impeded  by  the  vefiel  fprtng- 
ing  a  leak — And  now,  when  at  la  ft  I  hoped  to  get 
from  Bulneer  to  Bombay,  I  was  flopped  by  the 
intelligence  that  the  Gulph  was  blocked  up  by 
French  privateers,  ipfomuch  as  no  vefiel  could  hope 
to  eicape..     I   was   therefore   obliged  to   remain  at 


2/4         ARRIVAL  AT  BASSORA. 

Bufheer,  till  a  Company's  frigate,  commanded  by 
Captain  Hardy,  and  loon  expe&ed  fhould  afford 
me  an  opportunity  of  proceeding  to  Bombay. 
Time,  however,  brought  that  period  about;  and 
I  rook  my  paffage,  and  arrived  fafe  at  Bombay, 
where  I  toon  after  embarked  on  board  a  Portuguelc 
veueJ.  being  the  only  conveyance  that  offered  for 
me  to  proceed  to  Madras  :  fhe  was  fir  ft  bound  to 
Goa,  and  we  anivetl  iafely  at  that  ifland,  where  I 
was  received  with  great  politenels,  asd  'reated  with 
the  mofr  friendly  attention,  by  Mr.  Henshaw, 
the  Englifh  Refident. 

Goa  belongs  to  the  Portuguefe  :  the  Viceroy  of 
the  Nation  lives  there  in  great  pomp.  It  was  once 
the  icene  of  the  molt  abominable  ciuelties,  exer- 
cifed  by  that  flagkious  peop-e^on  the  natives,  under 
pretended  zeal  for*  Chriftianity — I  lad  read  the 
Abbe  Raynai.'s  glowing  description  of  it  ;  and  as 
I  trod  the  ground,  my  fume  trembled  at  the 
thoughts  of  the  maffiCres  perpetrated  there. 

I  was  impatient  to  get  from  Goa,  and  yet  I  look- 
ed forward  to  my  departure  with  a  lecret  uneafi- 
nels,  for  which  1  was  entirely  unable  to  account — 
I  wifhed  to  prcceed,  and  yet  fome  (ecret  foreboding 
w  hifpered  to  my  heart  that  I  was  on  the  verge  of 
Calamity  :  fo  powerful  was  it,  and  fo  obftinate, 
that  I  could  neither  reafon  away  its  admonitions, 
nor  leftft  it's  impreflions  ;  and  fome  thing  inccftant- 
ly  told  m?,  in  as  plain  language  as  if  a  human  be- 
ing fpoke,  that  I  ffcould  fuffer  a  dreadful  misfor- 
tune. As  I  had  all  my  life  been  an  enemy  to 
fuperftition,  1  felt  my  fp'.vit  infulted,  and  my 
Uwderjiand  ng  degraded,  by  the  involuntary  viftoTy 
jflHP  I  alioweu  to  this  impreflion — I  combated 
:  ,  with  rid'cule,  with  feif-contempt 
•— 1a!i  i  :  vain  :  in  ip-te  of  me,  I  became  the  very 
flaw  of  gloomy  preientiment  ;  and  iri  order  to  get 
the  fccccddneoms  aid  of  a  friend's  reafon,  as. well 
as  to  be  prepared,  I  communicated  the  fiate  of  my 


ARRIVAL  AT  BASSORA,  ty$ 

feelings  to  Mr.  Hens  haw.  In  vain  he  endea- 
voured to  cheer  me  :  all  he  could  do  was  to  gjvtl 
me  his  counfel  ;  in  confequence  of  which  I  actu- 
ally fettled  all  my  affairs  up  to  that  day,  made  my 
will,  left  it  with  Mr.  Henshaw,  and,  full  of 
dreadful  forebodings  of  (hip wreck,  went  on  board 
a  Portuguefe  inow  bound  to  Madras. 

It  was  now  the  eighteenth  day  of  May  when 
we  failed  from  Goa.  The  hemisphere  had  been 
for  fome  days  overcaft  with  clouds  :  forne  light 
fhowers  of  rain  had  fallen  ;  and  you  may  conclude 
that  it  did  not  tend  to  raife  my  fpirits,  or  fiee  me 
from  ominous  apprehenfions,  to  hear  that  thofe 
circumftances  indicated  an  approaching  gale  of 
wind.  I  obferved,  moreover,  that  the  velfel  was 
much  too  deep  in  the  water,  being  greatly  over- 
loaded— that  ihe  was  in  many  reipecis  defective, 
and,  as  the  feamen  lay,  ill-found,  and  in  fhort  ve- 
ry unfit  to  encounter  a  gale  of  wind  of  any  vio- 
lence. I  fcorned,  however,  to  yield  to  thofc 
united  imp  re  {lions,  and  determined  to  pinceed. 

On  the  nineteenth,  the  fky  was  obfcured  by 
immenle  fleeces  of  cloud>,  furcharged  with  infl  im- 
mable  matter  ;  and  in  the  evening,  the  rain  fell  in 
torrents,  the  firmament  darkened  apace,  iudden 
night  came  on,  and  the  horrors  of  extreme  dark- 
nefs  were  rendered  dill  more  horrible  by  the  peals 
of  thunder  which  rent  the  air,  and  the  fieq<:ent 
flalhes  of  lightning,  which  ferved  only  to  {n^w  us 
the  honor  of  our  htuation,  and  leave  us  in  increa- 
sed daiknefs  ;  mean-time  the  wind  became  mors 
violent,  blowing  on  the  ihore ;  and  a  heavy  fea, 
railed  by  its  force,  united  with  it  to  make  our  date 
more  formidable. 

By  day-light  on  the  morning  of  the  twentieth, 
the  gale  had  encreafed  to  a  furious  tempeft  ;  and 
the  lea,  keeping  pace  with  it,  ran  mountain-high  ; 
and  a.,  it  kept  invariably  to  the  fame  point,  the  Cap- 
tain  and  Officers  became  ferioufly  alarmed,  ahcf  al- 


Zj6  ARRIVAL  AT  BASSORA. 

moft  perfuaded  that  the  South-Weft  Monfoon  had 
fet  in,  which,  if  it  were  lo,  would  tender  it  abolute- 
ly  impoflible  for  us  to  weather  the  coaft.  All  that 
day,  however,  we  kept  as  clofe  as  the  violence  of 
the  weather  would  allow  us  to  the  wind  ;  but  the 
fea  canted  her  head  fo  to  leeward,  that  {he  made 
more  lee  than  head-way  ;  and  the  rigging  was  fo 
iltained  with  the  work  that  we  had  lihie  hope  of 
keeping  off  the  fliore,  unlefs  the  wind  changed,  of 
which  there  was  not  now  the  imalleft  probability. 
During  the  night  there  was  no  intermifHon  of  the 
ftorm  :  many  of  the  (ails  flew  into  ribbons  ;  Jome 
cf  the  rgging  was  canied  awav  ;  and  fuch  exertions 
were  made,  that,  before  morning,  every  flick  that 
could  pofiibly  be  ft  ruck  was  down  upon  the  deck. 
About  (even  o'clock  on  the  morning  of  the  twen- 
ty-firft,  I  was  alarmed  by  an  unlual  noile  upon 
the  deck,  and  running  up,  peiecived  that  every 
remaining  Jail  in  the  wild,  the  fore-fail  alone  ex- 
cepted, was  totally  carried  away.  The  fight  was  hor- 
rible :  and  the  whole  veffel  ptefented  a  ipc£bcle  as 
dreadful  :o  the  feelings  as  mortifying  to  human  pride. 
Fear  had  produced,  not  only  all  the  helpleffi  eis  of 
defpondency,  but  all  the  miichievous  freaks  of  in- 
sanity. In  one  place  flood  the  Captain,  raving, 
(tamping,  and  tearing  his  hair  in  handfuls  from  his 
heid — here  fome  of  the  ciew  weie  caft  upon  their 
knees,  clapping  their  hands,  and  praying,  with  all 
the  extravagance  of  houor  painted  in  their  faces 
— there,  others  were  flogging  their  images  with  all 
their  might,  calling  upon  them  to  allay  the  ftorm. 
One  of  our  paflVngere,  who  was  Purfer  of  an  En- 
gl;fh  Eaft-Indiaman,  had  got  hold  of  a  cale-bottle 
of  rum,  and,  with  an  air  of  diftradlion  and  deep 
defpair  imprinted  in  his  face,  was  {talking  about  in 
his  fhirti  I  perceived  him  to  be  on  the  point  of 
ferving  it  about,  in  large  tumblers,  to  the  few  un- 
dilmayed  people  ;  and  well  convinced,  that,  fo  far 
from 'alleviating,   it  would  fharpen   the   horror*  of 


ARRIVAL  AT  BASSORA.  277 

their  mind,   I  went  forward,  and  with   much  diffi- 
culty prevented  him. 

Having  accomplifhed  this  point,  I  applied  my- 
felf  to  the  Captain,  and  endeavoured  to  bring  him 
back  (if  pofiible)  to  his  recollection,  and  to  a  fenfe 
of  what  he  owed  to  his  duty  as  a  commander,  and 
to  his  dignity  as  a  man  :  I  exhorted  him  to  encou- 
rage the  Tailors  by  his  example  ;  and  ftrove  to  raife 
his  fpirits,  by  faying  that  the  dorm  did  not  appear 
to  me  by  any  means  fo  terrible  as  fome  I  had  before 
experienced. 

While  I  was  thus  employed,  we  fhipped  a  fea 
on  the  (larboard  fide,  which  I  really  thought  would 
have  lent  us  down.  The  vellel  feemed  to  fink 
beneath  its  weight,  fhivered,  and  remained  motl- 
onleis — it  was  a  moment  or  critical  fufpenle  :  fancy 
made  me  think  I  felt  her  gradually  defcending — I 
gave  rnyfelf  up  as  gone,  and  fummoned  all  my  for- 
titude to  bear  approaching  death  with  becoming 
manhood. 

Juft  at  this  crifis,  the  water,  which  ruflied  with 
incredible  force  through  all  parts  of  the  veHel, 
brought  out  floating,  and  nearly  fuffocate^  ativ 
Englifh  palTenger,  who  was  endeavouring  to  take 
a  little  repoie  in  a  fmall  cabin  boarded  off  from  the 
deck  :  he  was  a  very  Trout  young  man,  and  full  of 
true  fpirit.  Finding  that  the  veliel  was  not,  as  I 
had  thought,  going  immediately  down,  he  joined 
me  in  exhorting  the  captain  to  his  duty  :  we  per- 
fuaded  him  to  throw  the  guns  overboard,  as  well  as 
a  number  of  trunks  and  packages  with  which  the 
veiTel  was  much  encumbered  ;  and  with  fome  little 
exertion,   we  got  the  pumps  fet  agoing. 

Here  I  w:li  Hop,    knowing  the  warm  fenfibility 
of  my  Frederick's  mind;    and,   convinced 
his  fympathctic    heart    will    go    hand-in-hand    \ 
his  Father's  lurTering's,     I    will    not    overcharge  it 
with   grief  by    an    immediate    continuation  of  the 
bufinels,   but.  defer  it  to  anothei   Letter, 

A  a 


278  SHIPWRECK. 


LETTER      XLV. 


X  IIE  name  of  the  Engliih  paffenger, 
tvnom  I  mentioned  to  you  in  my  lad  Letter  as  aflTi  fl- 
ing me  in  getting  the  Captain  and  Mariners  to  do 
their  duty,  was  Hall.  He  was  a  young  man  of  a 
inofl  amiable  difpofition,  and  with  it  poiTefled  all 
that  manly  fpirit  that  gives  prefence  of  mind  in 
exigences  of  danger.  He  and  I  having,  with  great 
difficulty,  got  fome  hands  to  flick  ?o  the  pumps, 
flood  at  the  wheel,  at  once  to  ailiit  the  men,  and 
prevent  them  from  quitting  it  ;  and,  although 
hopelefs,  determined  that  no  effort  practicable  on 
our  parts  fhould  be  wanting  to  the  piefervation  of 
the  veiTel.  The  wa'er,  however,  gained  upon  the 
pumps,  notwithftanding  every  effort  ;  and  it  evi- 
cvidently  appeared  that  we  could  not  keep  her 
long  above  water. 

At  ten  o'clock  the  wind  feemed  to  increafe,  and 
amounted  to  a  downright  hurricane  :  the  iky  was 
fo  entiielv  ohfeuted  with  black  clouds,  and  the 
rain  fell  lo  thick,  that  obje&s  were  not  difcemable 
from  the  wheel  to  the  ihip's  head.  Soon  the 
pumps  were  choaked,  and  could  no  longer  be 
worked  :  then  diimay  feized  on  all — nothing  but 
unutterable  c-etpair,  fiient  anguifh,  and  horror, 
wiought  up  to  frenzy,  was  to  be  (een  ;  not  a  fin- 
£le  loul  was  capable  of  an  effort  to  be  uleful— -  all 
teemed  more  deiuous  to  cxtinguffti  their  calamities 
by  embracing  death,  than  willing,  by  a  painful 
exertion,    to  avoid  it. 

At  .'bout  eleven  o'clock  we  could  plainly  diftin- 
guifli    a   dreadful   roaring  naife,   reienibling  tfc 
waves  rolling  again  ft  rocks  ;    but   the  daikneis  of 


SHIPWRECK.  2^9 

{he  dav,  and  the  accompanying  rains,  prevented 
us  from  Teeing  any  diitance  ;  and  if  they  were 
rocks,  we  might  be  actually  da  (lied  to  pieces  on 
ihcm  before  we  could  perceive  them.  At  twelve 
o'clock,  however,  the  weather  cleared  up  a  little, 
and  both  the  wind  and  the  lea  feemed  19  have  aba- 
ted :  the  very  ex  pan  fum  of  the  proipccl  round  the 
(hip  was  cxhiieratmg  ;  and  as  the  weather  grew 
,  and  the  lea  ieis  furious,  the  ienies  of  the 
people  returned,  and  the  general  flupeftttion  be- 
gan to  decreafe. 

The  weather  continuing  to  clear  up,  we  in  fome 
\\ind  discovered  breakers  arid  large  rocks  without 
fide  of  us  ;  fo  that  it  appeared  we  mull  have  paffed 
quire  clole  to  them,  and  were  now  fairly  hemmed 
in  between  them  and  the  land. 

In  this  very  critical  juncture,  the  Captain,  en- 
tirely contrary  to  my  opinion,  adopted  the  danger- 
ous relolutiou  of  letting  go  an  anchor,  to  bring  her 
up  with  her  head  to  the  lea:  But,  though  no  fea- 
rinn,  my  common  (tn(e  told  me  that  ihe  could 
never  ride  it  out,  but  mufc  direchy  go  down.  The 
event  nearly  justified  my  judgment  :  lor  fhe  had 
icarcely  been  at  anchor  before  an  enormous  lea 
roiling  over  her,  overwhelmed  and  filled  her  with 
Water,  arsd  every  one  on  board  concluded  that  fhe 
was  certainly  linking — On  the  inflant,  a  Lalc.v, 
with  a  presence  of  mind  worthy  an  old  Eogliih 
mariner,  look  an  axe,  ran  forward,  and  cut  the 
cable. 

On  finding  jierfelf  free,  the  velTel  again  floated, 
and  made  an  effort  to  light  heneif  ;  but  (he  was 
atmofl  completely  water-logged,  and  heeled  to  lar- 
board io  much  that  the  gunnel  lay  under  watef. 
We  then  endeavoured  to  fteer  as  fail  as  we  could 
for  the  land,  Which  we  knew  could  not  be  at  any 
gteat  dittance,  though  we  were  unable  to  difcover 
it  through  the  hazy  weather  :  the  forelail  was  loof-^ 
ci&d;  by  great  cHoiis  in  bailing,  ited  a  lit- 


2§o  SHIPWRECK. 

tie,  her  gunnel  was  got  above  water,  and  we  fcud- 
<!ed  as  weil  as  we  could  before  the  wind,  which 
ftill  blew  hard  on  Chore  ;  and  at  about  two  o'clock 
the  land  appeared  at  a  imall  diftance  a  head. 

The  love  of  life  countervails  all  other  confidera-* 
tions  in  the  mind  of  man.  The  unceitainty  we 
were  under  with  regard  to  the  {hoie  before  us, 
which  we  had  reafon  to  believe  was  part  of  Hyder 
Alli's  dominions,  where  we  fhculd  meet  with 
the  mo&  rigorous  treatment,  if  not  ultimate  death, 
was  forgotten  in  the  joyful  hope  of  laving  life  ; 
and  we  (cudded  towarcs  the  fhore  in  all  the  exult- 
ing transports  of  people  juft  fnatched  from  the 
pws  of  death* 

This  gleam  of  happinefs  continued  not  long  :  a 
tremendous  lea  rolling  after  us,  broke  over  our 
ftem,  tore  every  thing  before  r,  (love  in  the  fleer- 
age,  carried  away  the  rudder,  fhivered  the  wheel 
to  piece?,   ?.nd   toie   up   the    very   ring-bolts  of  the 

ck — conveyed   the    men   who   Hood  at  the  wheel 

and   fwept  them  overheard.      I  was  ftand- 

e    t  me,    near  the   wheel,   arc!    fortunately 

Id  of  the  trffaicl,  which  enabled  me  to  refift 

in  parr  the  weight  of  the    wave.      I  was,   however, 

pt   off  my   feet,   End   dafhed   again  ft    the    main- 

e    jeik    from    the  tafiarel,    which   I   held 

very    tenacioufiy.   feemed  as  if  it  would  have  diflo- 

cated  my  arms  :   however,   it   broke  the   impetus  of 

my    motion,   and    in    i  lity    laved  me  fiom 

being  dafhed  to  pieces  againft  the  mad. 

I  floundered  about  in  t lie  water  at  the  foot  of 
the  malt,  till  st  length  I  got  on  my  feet,  and  ieiz- 
ed  a  rope,  which  I  held  in  a  (late  of  great  embar- 
raffment,  dubious  what  I  mould  do  to  exfr:c^:e 
iriyfelf.  At  this  inftant  I  perceived  that  Mr.  Hall 
had  gor  upon  the  capitern,  and  was  waving  his 
hai.d  to  me  to  follow  his  example:  this  1  wifhed 
to  iio.  though  it  was  an  enterprise  of  Ionic  rifk  and 
v  ;   for,  if  I   led   the   hold  1  had,  a   finglc 


SHIPWRICK.  281 

motion  of  the  veftVi,  or  a  full  wave,  would  cer- 
tainly carry  me  overboard.  I  made  a  bold  puih, 
however,  and  fortunately  accompliihed  it.  Having 
attained  this  Ration,  I  could  the  better  furvey  the 
wreck,  and  faw  that  the  water  was  nearly  brea It- 
high  on  the  quarter-deck,  (for  the  veffel  was  dcep- 
w  .rifted);  and  I  perceived  the  unfortunate  Englilh 
Purler  tlandinj  where  the  water  was  moll  {hallow. 
as  if  watching  with  patient  expectation  its  rifirrg, 
and  awating  death  :  1  called  to  him  to  come  to  us, 
but  lie  fhook  his  head  in  defpair,  and  faid,  in  a. 
lamentable  tone,  M  It  is  all  over  with  us!  Gob 
have  mercy  upon  ua!" — then  seated  himfelf  with 
iceirnng  compoiure  on  a  chair  which  happened  «.« 
be  rolling  about  in  the  wreck  of  the  deck,  and  in 
a  few  minutes  afterwards  was  waflied  into  the  fea 
along  with  it,  where  he  was  fpcedily  releafed  from 
a  ii.ate  ten  tfroufand  times  worie  than  death. 

During  this  universal  wreck  of  things,  the  hor- 
ror i  was  in  could  not  prevent  me  (win  observing  jl 
very  curious  c'rrcumftance,  which  at  any  other  time 
-would  have  excued  laughter,  though  now  it  pro- 
duced no  other  emotion  than  lurpriie — We  ha*-'- 
pened  to  be  in  pari  Udci*  wan  mangoes,  of  which 
the  ifiand  of  Goa  is  known  to  product  ll>e  Hoeft 
in  the  world;  lorne  of  them  lay  in  baG:ets  on  tie 
poop  ;  a  little  black  boy,  in  the  moment  of  gveateft 
danger,  had  got  feated  by  them,  devouring  them 
voricioufly,  and  crying  all  the  tune  molt  bitterly  at 
the  horrors  of  his  liiuaiion  ! 

i  I  c  veffel  now  got  completely  water-fogged  ; 
and  Mr.  Hall  and  I  weie  employed  |n  forming 
conjectural  calculations  how  many  minutes  file  could 
keep  above  water,  and  confoting  one  another  on  the 
unfortunate  c.icumilinces  under  which  we 
lamenting  that  fate  h.  d  bus  brought  us  acquainted 
only  to  make  us  witneifes  of  each  other's  ntifery^ 
and  then  to  ice  one  another  no  more. 

A  a  2 


2Sl  SHIPWRECK. 

As  the  larboard  fide  of  the  vefTel  was  gradually 
going  down,  the  deck,  and  of  courle  the  capftem, 
became  too  nearly  perpendicular  for  us  to  continue 
on  it  :  we  therefore  forefaw  the  neceflity  of  quit- 
ting it,  and  got  upon  the  (larboard  fide,  holding 
fad  by  the  gunnel,  and  allowing  our  bodies  and 
legs  to  yield  to  the  !ea  as  it  broke  over  us.  Thus 
wc  continued  for  fome  time  :  at  length  the  feverity 
of  the  labour  (o  entirely  exhaufled  our  ftrength  and 
fpirits,  that  our  bcfl  hope  feemed  to  be  a  (pecdy 
conclufion  to  our  painful  death  ;  and  we  began  to 
have  ietious  intentions  of  letting  go  our  hold,  and 
yielding  ourfelves  up  at  once  to  the  fury  of  the 
waves. 

The  veflfel,  which  all  this  time  drifted  with  the 
fea  and  wind,  gradually  approximated  the  fhore, 
and  at  length  fcruck  the  ground,  which  for  an  in- 
ilant  revived  our  almofb  departed  hopes  ;  but  we 
loon  found  that  it  did  not  in  the  (mailed:  degree 
better  our  Situation — Again  I  began  to  yield  to 
utter  defpair — again  I  thought  of  letting  go  my 
hold,  and  linking  at  once  :  It  is  impoflible  thought 
I  ever  to  efcape — why,  then,  prolong,  for  a  few 
minutes,  a  painful  existence  that  mull  at  laft  be 
given  up  ?  Yet,  yet,  the  all-fubduing  love  of# life 
iuggefled,  that  many  things  apparently  impoflible 
had  come  to  pafs  ;  and  I  laid  to  mylelf,  If  life  is 
to  be  loft,  why  not  lofe  it  in  a  glorious  (truggle  ? 
Should  I  lurvive  it  by  accident,  life  will  be  rcn- 
deied  doubly  fweet  to  me,  and  I  (till  more  worthy 
of  it  by  perievering  fortitude. 

While  I  was  employed  in  this  train  of  reflection, 
I  perceived  fome  oi  the  people  collecting  together, 
talking,  and  holding  a  consultation — It  immedi- 
ately occurred  to  me,  that  they  were  devTing 
c  plan  for  elcaping  from  the  wieck,  and  gct- 
|i;.  ve:   and.  io  natural  is  it  for  man  to  cling 

to  creature    for   fupport    in    difficult    or 

genets^  I   propoied  to  Mr.  Hall  ;o 


SHIPWRECK.  283 

join  them,  and  take  a  fhare  in  the  execution  of  the 
plan — obferving  to  him  at  the  fame  time,  that  I  was 
determined  at  all  events  to  quit  the  veflel,  and  trull 
to  the  prote&ion  and  guidance  of  a  luperintending 
Providence  for  the  reft. 


LETTER    XLVI. 


S  prodigality  of  life  is,  in  fome  cafes, 
the  excefs  of  virtue  and  couiage — lo  there  are 
others  in  which  it  is  vice,  meannefs  and  cowardice. 
True  courage  is,  according  to  the  circumftances 
under  which  it  is  to  operate,  as  rigidly  tenacious 
and  vigilant  of  life  in  one  cafe,  as  it  is  indifferent 
and  regardlefs  in  another  ;  and  I  think  it  is  a  very 
flrange  contradiction  in  the  human  heart  (although 
it  often  happens),  that  a  man  who  has  the  rnoft  un- 
bounded courage,  in  feeking  death  even  in  the  can- 
non's mouth,  fhall  yet  want  the  necetTary  reiolu- 
..  tion  to  make  exertions  to  lave  his  life  in  cafes  of 
ordinary  danger.  The  unfortunate  Englifh  Purfer 
could  not  collect  courage  lufficient  to  make  an  effort 
to  lave  himielf  ;  and  yet  I  think  it  probable  that  he 
would  have  faced  a  battery  of  artillery,  or  expofed 
himfelf  to  a  piftol-fhot,  if  occafion  required,  as 
foon  as  any  other  man.  Thus  it  appears  at  fir  ft 
view  :  but  may  not  this  feeming  incongruity  be 
explained  by  laying,  that  perlonal  courage  and  for- 
titude are  different  qualities  of  the  mind  and  body, 
and  depend  upon  the  exercile  of  entirely  different 
functions?  t 

Be  that  as  it  may,  I  argued  with  myfelf,  in  the 
height  of  my  calamitous  fituation,  upon  the  fub- 
jectof  fortitude  and  dejecYiqn,  courage  and  cow- 
ardice j  and,  noth  with  (landing  the  ierious  afpsct  of 


*S4  ' 


SHIPWRECK, 


affairs,  found  myfelf  liftening  to  the  fuggcftirinsof 
pride  :  What  a  pahiy  thing  to  yield,  while  ftrength 
is  left:  to  ftruggle  1  Vanity  herfelf  had  her  hint, 
and  whifpered,  "  Should  I  clcape  by  an  effort  of 
my  own,  what  a  glorious  theme  of  exultation  ! " 
There  were,  I  confefs,  tranfitory  images  in  my 
mind,  which,  co-operating  with  the  natural  at- 
tachment to  ielf-pvsici  valicn,  made  me  oerievere, 
and  reiolve  to  do  fo.  while  one  veftige  of  hope 
was  left  for  the  mind  to  dwell  on. 

Qbferving,  as  I  told  you  before,  the  people  ccn- 
fulting  together,  and  refolving  to  join  tiiem,  I  made 
an  efiort  to  get  to  the  lee  fnrouds,  svhere  they  v.  ere 
ftanding,  or  rather  clingfng  ;  but  before  I  could 
sccomplUb  it,  I  loll  my  hold,  fell  dou  n  the  hatch- 
way (the  gratings  having  been  carried  a  v. 
the  long-boat),  and  was  for  iome  minutes  entangled 
there  amongfi   a  heap  of  packages,   wh  vio- 

lent fluctuations  of  the  water  had    c  '  on  the 

lee  ficie.  As  the  veffel  moved  wi(h  the  lea,  ami 
ihe  water  flowed  in,  the  package:  and  I  weie 
ed  together — fometimes  one,  (bmetirnes  another, 
lippcrmofl  ;  fo  that  I  began  to  be  apprehennve  1 
fhould  not  be  able  to  extricate  myielf  :  by  the 
mere  ft  accident,  however,  I  grafped  fomething 
thai  lay  in  my  way,  made  a  vigoious  fpring,  and 
gained  the  lee  fhrouds.  Mr.  Hall,  who  followed 
me,  in  ieizing  the  fhrouds,  came  thump  again  ft 
me  with  iuch  violence  that  I  could  Scarcely  retain 
rny  hold  of  the  rigging.  Compelled  by  the  peti- 
lou..  fituation  in  which  I  flood,  I  called  out  to  him 
1  r  God's  fake  to  keep  off,  for  that  I  was  renucied 
quite  breathlefs  ancl  worn  out  :    he  ge 

ured    to  make  way  for  me,    ana,   in  cloir. 
unfortunately  loft  ins  held,   and  went  down  under 
the  fhip's  fide.      Never,   never    ihall    I    forge:    my 
fen  far  ions    at  this   melancholy  .- — 1   would 

have  given  millions  of  worlds  that  I  could  have 
recalled    the  words  which   made   him  move  ;  my 


SHIPWRECK.  285 

mind  was  wound  up  to  the  lad  pitch  of  anguifh  :  I 
may  truly  Tay,  that  this  was  the  mod  bitter  of  all 
the  bitter  moments  of  my  life,  compared  with 
which  the  other  circumftances  of  the  fhipwreck 
feemed  leffened — for  I  had  infenfibly  acquired  an 
unufual  efteem  and  warm  attachment  for  him,  and 
was  doubtful  whether,  after  being  even  the  inno- 
cent occafion  of  his  falling,  I  ought  to  take  fur- 
ther pains  to  preferve  my  own  life.  All  thole 
fenfations  were  palling  with  the  rapidity  of  light- 
ning through  my  thoughts,  when,  as  much  to  my 
adonifhtnent  as  to  my  joy,  I  faw  him  borne  by  a 
returning  wave,  and  thrown  among  the  very  pack- 
ages from  which  I  had  but  jud  before,  with  fuch 
labour  and  difficulty,  extricated  myfelf — In  the 
end  he  proved  equally  fortunate,  but  after  a  much 
longer  and  harder  druggie,  and  after  iudaining 
much  more  injury. 

I  once  more  changed  my  (ration,  and  made  my 
way  to  the  poop,  where  I  found  my  lei  f  rather 
more  fheltercd — I  earneftly  wifhed  Mr.  II all  to 
be  with  me,  whatever  might  be  my  ultimate  fate 
— and  beckoned  to  him  to  come  to  me  ;  but  he 
only  anlwered  by  fhaking  his  head,  in  a  feeble, 
defponding  manner — flaring  at  the  iame  time  wild- 
ly about  him  :  even  hfs  Ipirit  was  lubdued  ;  and 
defpair,  I  peiceive<^^ad  begun  to -take  poflefiion 
of  his  mind. 

Being  a  little  more  at  eafe  in  my  new  Ration  than 
I  had  been  before,  I  had  more  time  to  deliberate, 
and  more  power  to  judge,  1  recollefted,  that,  ac- 
cording to  the  courfe  of  time,  the  day  was  far  gone, 
and  the  night  quickly  approaching  :  I  refle&.'d, 
that  for  any  enterprize  whatloevei,  day  was  much 
preferable  to  night  ;  and  above  all  I  conlidered, 
that  the  veflcl  could  not  hold  long  together — I 
therefuie  thought,  that  the  bed  mode  I  could  adopt 
would  be,  to  take  to  the  water  With  the  fird  boyant 
thing  1    could  fee  ;  and,  as    the    wind   and  water 


£60  SHIPWRECK. 

both  feemcd  to  run  to  the  fhore.  to  take  my  chance 
in  that  way  of  reaching  it.  In  puriuance  of  this 
retaliation,  I  tore  oil  rr.y  fnirt,  having  before  iV. 
thrown  off  the  other  parts  of  my  drels— I  looked 
at  my  lleeve  buttons,  in  which  was  fet  the  hair  of 
my  departed  children — and.  by  an  involuntary  a& 
or  the  imagination,  afked  mylelf  the  queftion, 
'*  Shall  I  be  happy  enough  to  meet  them  where  f 
am  now  about  to  go  ? — fhail  thole  dear  la(t  remains, 
fcoo,  become  a  prey  so  the  devouring  deer*  ?" — In 
that  in  ft  ant,  realon,  iu'pended  by  the  horrors  of 
the    iceiie,   gave    \\ \-.\  to  inftin6fc  :   and  1  my 

ii.ii  t  up.  and  very  carefully  insult  it  into  a  hole 
between  decks,  with  the  w  rid  hopes  that  the  ilteve 
buttons  might  yet  elcape  untouched.  Watching 
my  ope  ortunity,  I  faw  a  log  of  wood  floai-  g  near 
the  vefifci,  and,  waving  my  hand  to  Mr.  Hall  as 
a  I  a  ft  adieu,  j  imped  after  it.  Here,  again,  I  was 
Cdinieo  to  ;  r^avated  hardfhips — I  had  icarcely 
touched  the  log  when  a  great  (ea  iratcbed  it  ficm 
my  bprd  ;  (till  as  it  came  near  me,  I  grafped  at  it 
inefleclually,  till  at    ia ft   it  was    completely    carried 

iy,  but  not  before  it  had  cut  and  battered  and 
bruiird  me  in  feyeral  places,  and  in  a  m .inner  mat  at 
any  other  time  I  fhould  have  thought  dreadful. 

Death  feemed  inevitable.^^d  all  that  occured  to 
me  now  to  do.  was  to  acomie  it,  and  get  out  of 
its  pangs  as  fpeediiy  as  poiTfWe  ;  for,  though  I  knew 
iiow  id  fwiin.  the  tremendous  turf  rendered  lw-m- 
miug  ufeleis,  and  all  hope  from  it  would  have  been, 
rediculous.  I  there foie  began  to  fwallow  as  much 
water  as  poiCrble  ;  yet,  ftill  rinng  by  the  the  boyant 
principle  of  the  waves  to  the  furfacc,  my  former 
thoughts  began  to  recur  ;  and  whether  it  was  that, 
or  natural  iultinct,  which  furvived  the  temporary 
Jroprefiions  of  de.'pair,  I  know  not — but  i  endea- 
voured lo  Iwim,  which  1  had  not  done  1< 
)  again  diicovered  the  log  of  wood  I  had  lo 
ing  near   me,  and   with    ioaje  difficulty  U  ; 


SHIPWRECK.  2S7 

Iwtrdlyhad  It  been  an  inftant  in  my  hands,  when, 
by  the  fame  unlucky  means,  I  loft  it  again.  I  had 
often  heard  it  laid  in  Scotland,  that  if  a  man  will 
throw  himielf  flat  on  his  back,  in  the  water,  lie 
quite  ftra-igh-t  and  ft  iff,  and  fuffer  himfelf  to  fink 
nil  the  water  gets  into  his  eats,  he  will  continue  to 
float  fo  for  ever  ;  this  occured  to  me  now,  and  I 
cktei  mined  to  try  the  experiment  ;  fo  I  throw  my- 
felf  on  my  back,  in  the  manner  I  have  deienbed 
and  left  myfelf  to  the  difpoial  of  providence  :  nor 
was  it  long  till  I  found  the  truth  of  the  laying — for 
I  floated  with  haidly  an  effort,  and  began  for  the 
firfttime  to  conceive  fomething  like  hopes  of  pre- 
fervation. 

er  lying   in    this   manner,   committed   to   the 

^|j|tt^non  or  the  tides,    I  foon  law  the   veffrl — (aw 

jP^^WBwas   at  a   confiderabie   diftance    behind  me. 

Livelieft  hope    began  to    play    about  my  heart,   and 

joy    fluttered    with   a  thouiand    gay    fancies  in    my 

mind  :    1  began   to  form  the    favourable  conclufion, 

at     that  the  tide  was  carrying  me  rapidly  to  land    from 

•^   the  veffel,  and  that  I  fhouldioon  once  more   touch 

itrra  ji  r  ma. 

This  expectation  was  a  cordial  that  revived  my 
exhaufted  ipirits  :  I  took  courage,  and  left  myleif 
Hill  to  the  fame  all  diiecVmg  Power  that  had  hitherto 
preferved  me,  fcarcely  doubling  thai  I  ihould  1 
reach  the  laad.  Nor  was  I  mi  flak  en  ;  for,  in  a 
fhqrt- time  more,  without  effort  or  exertion,  and 
witflbut  once  turning  from  off  my  back.  I  f.  •  d 
xnylcif  (trike  again  ft  the  (andy  beach.  Ove:j  05 
as  y^  may  well  luppoie,  to  the  higheft  puc,y  of 
tranfp^rt  at  my  providential  deliveranc  .  i  made  a 
convulfive  fpring,  and  ran  up  a  little  diftance  on 
the  ihoie  ;  but  was  fo  weak  and  worn  down  by  fa- 
tigue, and  fo  unable  to  clear  my  flomacb  of  the 
water  with  which  it  was  loaded,  that  I  fold  ily 
g!e-.v  deadly  fick,  and  aporehended  that  I  had  only 
exchanged  on?  death  for  another  ;  and  in  a  minute 
or  two  fainted  away. 


2$8  MADE  PRISONER. 


LETTER     XLVII. 


T 


HAT  admirable  man  and  fagacious  pe- 
netrating philofopher,  Dr.  Franklin,  has  left  us, 
among  innumerable  inflruciions  for  the  conduct  of 
human  life,,  and  for  remedying  many  of  the  griev- 
ances of  it,  directions  for  going  a  voyage  at  fea,  and 
has  paiticularly  enforced  the  folly  ot  quitting  fhips 
haftily.  and  yielding  one's  feif  up  to  defpair.  I 
am  convinced,  thai  nine  tenths  of  the  people  who 
perifh  by  fhipwreck.  perifh  from  the  want  ot  pre- 
sence of  mind,  and  (efficient  fortitude  tobe^Rnenr* 
out.  The  unhappy  pi. tier,  who  fat  deliberately  in 
a  chair,  and  fullered  himfelf,  without  a  ftruggle,  to 
be  carried  overboard,  is  an  inftance  in  point.  The 
feeble  conduct  of  the  captain  and  crew  is  another. 
Had  he,  inftead  of  tearing  of  his  hair,  raving,  and 
acting  the  part  of  a  bedlamite,  encouragrd  his  men, 
and  -..ken  vigorous  meafures  in  time;  and  had  they, 
inftead  of  whimpering  prayers  on  their  knees,  and 
whipping  their  images,  made  all  clear,  and  prepared 
for  the  word  ;  in  fhort,  had  they,  according  to 
the  moral  of  the  old  fable,  put  theii  fhoulderto  the 
wheel,  inftead  of  calling  on  Her cules,  it  is  not  im- 
poflible  but  the  vetTel  might   have  been   favedj 

As  for  my  part,  the  joy  of  elcaping  immediate 
death  made  me  blind  to  the  other  miferiesl^f  my 
fituation.  Naked,  moneylefs  and  friendlefs,  upon 
an  unknown,  and  probably  inhcipitable  coaft,  what 
re? (enable  caule  had  I  to  rejoice  ?  Perhaps  the  re- 
verfe.     But  that  remains  to  be  feen. 

How  long  I  continued  in  the  fwoon  into  which 
I  had  fallen,   it  is  impoffible  for    me    to   tell  ;  b 
when  I  recovered,   1   found   myfelf  furro'jnded 


MADE  PRISONER.  2Z9 

a  guard  of  armed  foidiers,  fepoys,  and  pikemen. 
1  k'iew  thrm  immediately  to  be  the  troops  of  Hy- 
de r  Alli,  and  almoft  willed  mvfelf  back  into 
the  waves  again.  Looking  round,  I  faw  that  the 
people  and  effects  that  had  been  laved  from  the 
wreck  w:re  cojl.e&ed  all  together  along  with  me. 

In  this  Rate  we  remained  till  it  was  dark.  A 
Lafcat*  belonging  to  the  veffel,  perceiving  that  my 
nakednefs  gave  me  great  concern,  tore  into  two  a 
piece  of  cloth  which  he  had  tied  round  his  waift, 
and  gave  me  one  part  of  it,  which  afforded  a  fhort 
apron.  This  fimple  aft  of  a  poor,  uninformed 
black  man,  whom  chriftian  charity  would  call  an 
idolator,  methought  had  more  of  the  true  and  ef- 
fential  fpirit  of  charity  in  it,  than  half  the  oftenta- 
tious,  parading  newfpapef  public  charities  of  Lon- 
don— the  (lough  of  purfe-proud  vanity,  and  un- 
wieldy bloathed  wealth.  Of  all  the  a6ls  of 
beneficence,  that  I  ever  met  with,  it  (buck  me  the 
mod  forcibly  :  it  had  kindnefs,  dif-intereftednefs 
and  delicacy  for  its  bafis  ;  and  I  have  never  fince 
jhlhttught  of  it  without  wiftr'ng  that  I  could  meet  the 
man,  to  reward  him  for  his  beneficence  with  a 
fubiiflence  For  1  ife.  The  lower  order  of  people 
of  a  certain  country,  1  know,  would  think  a  rmn 
in  fuch  circumftances  as  I  was  then  in,  a  fitter  ob- 
ject of  pleafautry  than  pity. 

The  vaft  quantity  of  fait  water  I  had  {"wallowed, 
Mill  made  me  deadly  lick  iu  the  flomach  :  how- 
ever, after  fome  time,  I  threw  it  up,  and  got  gteat 
relief.  I  had  hardly  felt  the  comfortable  effects  of 
this,  before  I  was  oidered  to  march  :  nme  of  u«, 
all  Lalcars  except  mvfelf,  were  conveyed  to  a  vil- 
lage at  a  few  miles  diftaoce  on  the  fca-i'uie,  where 
we  were  for  the  night  put  into  a  Iqaare  place, 
walled  round,   open  to  the  inclemency  of  the  vvea- 

*  Natives  of  India,  employed  foroeumes  2»  failors,  fome- 
iirrfs  tor  inferior  orhces  in  ..he  army,  luch  as  pixhing  ter.ti,. 
drawing  guusj»&c. 

B  b 


290  MADE  PRISONER. 

thcr  above  and  below,  and  filled  with  large  logs  of 
wood  ;  it  blew  mod  violently,  and  the  rain  fell  in 
toi rents — while  not  one  fmooth  pUnk  coald  be 
found  on  which  to  ftretch  our  fatigued  and  wafted 
bodies.  Thus,  naked,  fick,  exhaufled  with  tV'g-je 
and  fading,  denched  with  v\e;,  and  unable  to  ire 
down,  our  mifeiy  might  bt-  (uppofed  10  be  inc.* 
ble  of  iucreafe.  Bu«,  alas  !  where  are  the  be  ll  5 
which  we  can  fet  to  human  wot  ? — Thin!,  1 
moil  dieadful  of  pains,  cccafionea  by  the  drench- 
ing with  (alt  wafer,  (e  zed  us  :  we  begged,  we 
entreated,  we  clamoured  tor  water  ;  but  the  inhu- 
man wretches,  deaf  to  the  groans  and  (creeches  of 
their  fellow-creatures,  (for  fome  grew  delirious 
with  the  agony  of  thirft),  refufed  them  even  the 
cheap  and  miferable  indulgence  of  a  drop  of 
Water  ! 

The  influence  of  the  mind  upon  the  body  has 
been  much  infiftcd  on  by  philolophers  and  phy- 
ficians,  and  I  believe  will  be  admitted  by  all  wife 
men.  I  was  myfelf  in  this  inftance,  a  ftriking 
proof  of  it  ;  for,  though  I  had  fwallowed  and^ 
thrown  up  fo  much  fait  water,  though  my  thirft  had 
exceeded  any  thing  I  had  ever  before  felt — yet, 
finding  that  water  was  not  to  be  had  or  expe&ed, 
I  compofed  my  mind  to  do  without  it,  diverted 
my  thoughts  from  it  by  the  contemplation  of  the 
many  ether  eviis  which  befet  me,  and  paffed  the 
night  without  that  horrible  agony  experienced  by 
the  others. 

IrMced,  a  night  of  more  exquifite  horror  cannot 
be  imagined.  The  thoughts  of  being  a  prifoiwr  to 
Hvder  Alli,  was,  of  it i el f,  fufficient  to  render 
me  completely  u  .happy  :  but  my  utter  want  of 
clothes  aimpfl  put  me  befide  myfelf  j  and  lying 
expofed  to  ihe  oprn  air,  wheie  I  was  glad  to  (it 
clofe  to  the  Lafcars  to  receive  a  little  heat  from 
their  bodies,  and  to  hold  open  my  mouth  in  order 
t«  catch  a  drop  of  the  defcending  rain,   was  a  ft.ale 


MADE  PRISONER.  29  I 

that  might  be  confidered  as  the  higheft   refinement 
Upon  mifery. 

About  four  o'clock  in  the  morning,   a  little  cold 
rice  was  brought  us  to  eat,   and  water  was   dug  out 
of  a  hole  near  the  fpot  for  us  ;    but  as  all  things  in 
this    life  are   good  or   bad    merely    relatively,   this 
wretched  fare  was  fome  refrefhment  to  u?.      I  was 
then  removed  to  the  ruins  of  a  toddy-hut,*  i'epara- 
led  from  the  reft,  and  a  guard  fet  over  me.     Here 
1  had  full    room  for   reflection,  and  could    "  medi- 
tate e'en  to  madnefs."     The  whole  of  my  Situation 
appeared  before  me  with  all  its  aggravating  circum- 
ftances  of  lienor  ;    and    to   any  one  who  cdpfiders 
i:,   1  believe  it  will  appear  that  it  was  hardly  poili- 
ble  to  fill  the  bitter  cup  of  calamity   fuller.     Oh  ] 
what  were  my  thoughts  !    My  family  bereft  of  him 
on  whole  efforts  they  were  in  a  great  meafure  to  dc 
pend  for  fupport  and  protection — you,  then  a  little 
innocent  cherub,  appeared  to   my  diftracied  imagi- 
nation twining  round  your  mother's  neck,    and,  in 
infant  clamour,  callin"  YGU!"  father— while  he.   in  a 
dreadful  captivity,    compared   with   which   even  a 
cruel    death*  were  mercy,  lay  wafting,    naked  and 
forlorn,  perifhing  with  the  inclemency  of  the  wea- 
ther, wanting  even   food  fit   for   his  lupport,    and 
expofed  to  the   Icourge  of  every  pttty  tyrant  that 
barbarous    power   might   employ   to  guard  him   !— 
Such   wer«   my   reflections  :    they  were   in   reafon 
well  founded  ;  for  there  was  no  probability  of  my 
Lz:::g  ever  FoU£»rodj  So  my    captivity   was   unlikely 
to  be  known  to  my  country,   or  by  my  friends. 

In  this  ftate  I  was,  when,  to  my  utt«r  aftonifh- 
ment,  and  to  my  no  lefsjoy.  the  amiable  companion 
©f  my  fhipwreck,  Mr.  Hall,  appeared  before  me. 
X  lcarcely  knew  how  to  think  his  appearance  reali- 
ty, as  1  undcrftood  that  the  Laicars  then  along  With 

*  A  fmall  temporary  hut,  where  toddy  [z  liquor  extra&cd 
from  the  cocoa-nut  tree)  \%  Told. 


292  MADE  PRISONER. 

me  weie  ail  that  were  faved  from  the  wreck  ;  and 
he  was,  at  the  time  1  parted  from  him,  fo  exhaufc- 
ed  both  in  body  and  mind,  that  I  thought  he  would 
b?  the  kit  who  could  efcape.  He,  however,  Hook 
me  by  the  hand  ;  arid,  fitting  down,  told  me  thac 
he  had  given  me  up  for  loft,  and  remained  with  the 
veffel  until  the  ticie,  having  ebbed,  left  her  al  mo  ft 
Or) — ;hat,  immediately  on  getting  2  (ho  re,  and  be- 
n.g  taken  prisoner,  he  made  inquiries  about  me,- 
and    hea-rd    that    I    had    been    faved — that,    finding 

s,   his  j-  y  was  fuch  as  to  make  him  alfcolt  forget 
his  own   misfortunes — and,   exciting   ail  his  entrea- 
ties not  to  be  fepatated  fionJ  me,   they  had   been    fo- 
far    indulgent    to  him,   and  had  biought  him  to  me, 
i    we   m  ght    be   companions   in    bondage.     He 

ji'd,  that  out  c>f  eleven  Europeans  and  fifty- fix- 
La  (cars  who  were  on  board,  only  he  and  1  of  the 
foiraer.  and  fourteen  of  the  latter,  were  faved  from 
the  tl:c  reft   having   been    dinwned    in    fhc 

t.  excepting  Tome  who,  overcome  with  ter- 
ror, h  and  anxiety,  and  exhaulled  with  fa* 
tigue,  iiad  bid  a  fo;  mal  adieu  to  their  companions, 
le;  go  their  hold,  and  calmly  and  voluntarily  given 
thernfelves  up  to  the  deep. 

1  here  took  occafnn  to  remark  to  him,  what  I 
have  already  laid  to  you,  that  thousands  lo-e  their 
lives  for  want  of  perleveiat.ee,  fortitude,  and  cou- 
rage to  prefcrve  them — Had  the  E-nglifh  Purler 
coiiccled  courage  enough  to  hold  fa  ft  till  the  tide 
ebbed,  he  might  have  been  fafe  on  (hot©  as  \»% 
were,  as  he  was  fuperior  to  either  of  us  in  bodily 
ftrttigth. 

'*   Ah!   my    friend!"   laid    he.    Peaking   his  head. 
defponcingh— li  is  he  worse  where  he.  is?    I  doi.bt 
•   i  rah  is  not  far   preferable  to  our  preient 
piolpects." 

'*  Come,  come,"  faid  I,  perceiving  he  was  me- 
hnchcly,  though  I  mylelf  laboured  under  all  the 
horror s  he  exprtffed — i:  come.  Let  us  not  think  j  a.l 


SENT  UNDER  A  GUARD,  Ac.         293 

will  yet  be  well  :  I  forefee  it  will;  and  you  muft 
knovMi  I  have  fomething  of  the  prophet  in  my 
nature — rperhaps  the  fecond  fight.5'  I  then  told 
him  my  prefentiments  on.  leaving  Goa,  which. 
much  allonifhed  him-*— dill  more  when  I  acquaint- 
ed him  with  the  formal  a£b  I  had  done  in  confe- 
quence  thereof,  by  Mr.  PIekshaw's  advice,  and 
with  his  privity. 

In  fact,  our  joy  at  meeting  was  reciprocally  great, 
and  in  feme  reipect  cheered  us  for  the  time  under 
all  our  miferies  in  hand,  and  ^the  dreary  profpect  of 
thofe  yet  to  come. 

Perceiving  that  he  flood  as  much  in  need  of  re 
lief  as  I  did  when  the  Lafcar  relieved  me  by  divid- 
ing his  cloth,  I  took  mine  off,  tore  it  in  two,  and 
gave  him  half  of  it:  you  may  '.veil  conceive  our 
mifery  from  this,  if  other  circumftances  were  wantf 
ing,  that  fuch  a  thing  .as  a  rag  of  linen,  not  worth 
fix  pence,  was  a  very  material  accommodation  to 
us  both. 


LETTER    XLVIII. 


Y 


OUR  letter,  occ.ifioned  by  the  account 
of  my  (hi pw reck  and  fubiequent  dilafler,  gave  me, 
my  amiable  boy  !  as  great  pleafure  as  thole  diiatlers 
gave  me  pain.  Your  account,  too,  of  John's 
bur  (ling  into  tears  on  the  reading  of  it  to  him,  had 
almo(l  a  (imiur  effect  upon  myfelf :  and  I  truft  in 
the  Almighty  dilpoier  of  events,  that  that  excel- 
lent turn  of  mind  will  be  lo  fafhioned  by  the  edu- 
cation I  give  you,  as  to  make  it  the  lource  of 
boundlels  gratification  and  true  great nefs  (by  which 
1  mean  goodneis)  here,  and  of  never-fading  feli- 
city hereafter.     You  (ay  you  cannot  account  for  it, 

B  b  2 


£9-1-  SENT  UNDER  A  GUARD 

but  you  found  more  happir.efs  at  my  efcape,  tharr 
mifery  at  my  misfortunes.  I  hail  that  circumftar.ee 
as  the  (Irongeft  mark  of  perfect  exceilence  of  dif- 
pofition.  A  great  moral  philofopher  has  laid  it 
down  as  a  m3xim,  that  it  is  the  furer  mark  of  a 
good  heart  to  lympathifc  with  joy  than  with  for- 
row;  and  this  inftar.ee  onJ.y  comes  in  aid  of  that 
opinion  of  you  which  my  fond  hopes  have  always 
nourifhed. 

At  the  fame  time  I  nrufl  declare  to  you,  that  my 
plea  Pure  at  elcaping  fhip wreck  was  by  no  means  as 
great  as  the  agony  my  mind  underwent  as  the  prof- 
pe&  now  before  me  wds  poignant.  I  have  already 
laid,  and  indeed  with  truth,  that  I  fhould  have 
with  much  gretter  pleafure  embraced  death  :  I,  who- 
had  been  already  fome  years  in  India-,  and  had  op- 
portunities of  hearing,  as  well  from  my  father  as 
from  other  ofhceis  in  the  fcivKre,  what  the  dif por- 
tion of  the  tyiant  in  whofe  power  I  hod  now  fallen 
wus,  knew  tco  well  the  horrors  of  my  fituation  to 
feel  any  thing  like  hope.  The  unmet  ciful  difpofi- 
tion  of  Hvder,  and  all  thole  in  autnority  under 
him,  and  the  ciucl  policy  of  the  Eaftern  chiefs, 
making  the  li-fc  of  any  one,  particularly  a  Britifh 
prifoner,  at  tne  be  ft  a  precarious  tenure,  I  dni  not 
know  the  moment  when  death  might  be  infl&cd 
upon  me  with  perhaps  a  thouiand  aggtavating  cir- 
cumflances  :  and  at  ail  events,  the  affairs  which 
demanded  my  prefence  in  India  fo  very  importu- 
nately as  to  urge  me  to  ail  the  fatigues  and  hard- 
fhips  of  a  paffage.  over  land,  were,  of  themlelves, 
lufheient  to  make  my  mind  unealy;  but  tneabjr 
(late  of  want  and  nakedneis  in  which  it  (eemed  I 
was  likely  to  remain,  llvuck  a  deep  and  cbmp  hor- 
ror to  mv  hc-a:t,  and  aimoli  unman'd  me. 
'  Mi.  Hall  and  I,  however,  endeavoured  with 
all  our  might  to  ftem  the  headlong  torrent  of  our 
fate — Melai  choly  preyed  deeply  and  openly  upon 
him,  wrnie  1  concealed  mine,  and  endeavoured  to 


UP  THE  COUNTRY.  295 

cheer  the  finking  fpirits  of  that  noble  ydfith,  who, 
I  perceived  was  the  prey  rather  of  ex'iemc  ferft- 
bility  tnan  feeblenefs  of  mmd.  All  the  horrors  of 
fhivering  nakednefs,  though,  to  a  rnmd  dilicate 
like  his,  and  a  perfon  reared  ir.  the  lap  of  luxury, 
fufficieotlv  goading,  appeared  as  nothing  when 'cut.-. 
pared  with  one  lots  he  had  fu  framed  in  the  depre- 
dations with  which  fhipwreck  is  conftamly  fol- 
lowed up.  In  the  cruel  fufpenie  between  life  and 
death,  which  I  have :  already '  defcribed,  previous  to 
my  getting  on  (bore,  this  amiable  young  man  had 
fee u red  and  treafured  next  his  heart,  as  the  infepe.- 
rabie  companion  of  his  fate,  a  miniature  portrait  of 
a  young  lady  ;  it  hung  round  his  neck,  and  was,  by 
the  unfeeling  villains  who  feized  him  on  hrs  land- 
in  or,  taken  away.  This  cruel  deurivaiion  was  an 
inceflant  cononve  to  his  mrnd — the  copious  fource 
of  anguifh  to  his  heart— the  hourly  theme  of 'the 
mod  pathetic,  affl  cVng  exclamations.  "  H-tri  I," 
he  would  cry,  *«  oh  1  had  I  had  but  the  good  for- 
tune to  have  gone  to  the  bottom  while  yet  it  hung 
about  my  neck,  I  mould  have  been  happy  ;  but 
now,  feparated  from  the  heavenly  original,  and 
bereft  of  the  precious  image,  what  is  life  ?  what 
would  be  life  were  1  yet  lure  of  it  ?  What  plea- 
fure,  what  common  content,  has  the  world  left  for 
mc  ?  None — oh!  none,  none!  Never  {hall  this 
heart  again  know  comfon  ! 

I  did  every  thing  1  could  to  confole  him,  and, 
as  far  as  I  could,  prevent  him  from  dwelling  0:1 
thofe  gloomy  lubjetb.  Our  converfations  were  in- 
teresting and  pathetic  ;  but,  alas  !  the  piciure,  at 
every  paufe,  chafed  away  the  flight  impreifions  of 
the  preceding  converfe  :  no  i'uffe rings  of  the  bo.dy 
Could  countervail  that  lois — no  confolation  mitigate 
it  ;  and  amidft  the  hoi !  id  reflections  which  unpa- 
ralleled calamity  impofed  upon  his  mind,  the  lo.'s 
of  thit  one  dear  relic  role  paramount  to  all — and  as 
every  thought  began,  io  it  ended,  with  the  picture. 


296  SENT  UNDER  A  GUARD 

For  fome  days  we  lay  in  this  place,  expofed  ta 
the  weather,  without  even  the  {lender  comfort  of  3 
little  flraw  to  cover  the  ground  beneath  us — our 
food,  boiled  lice,  ferved  very  fparingly  twice  a-day 
by  an  old  woman,  who  juft  threw  a  handful  or 
more  of  it  to  each  upon  a  very  dirty  board,  which 
we  devoured  with  thofe  fpoons  nature  gave  us. 

At  the  end  of  that  time,  we,  and,  along  with 
us,  the  Lafcars,  were  ordered  to  proceed  into  the 
country,  and  drove  on  foot  to  a  ronfiderable  d'f- 
tance,  in  order  to  tender  up  an  account  of  ourfelves 
to  per  Ions  belonging  to  government,  authorised  to 
take  it.  It  was  advanced  in  the  morning  when  we 
moved,  without  receiving  any  fort  of  luftenance  ; 
and  were  marched  in  that  wafting  climate  eight 
hours,  without  breaking  our  fall  ;  during  which 
time  we  were  expofed  alternately  to  the  icorchiug 
heat  of  the  fun  and  heavy  torrents  of  rain,  which 
raifed  painful  bliilers  on  our  fkin  :  we  had  often 
to  (land  expofed  to  the  weather,  or  to  lie  down, 
under  the  preffure  of  fatigue  and  we^knefs1  on  the 
bare  ground  ;  then  watt  an  hour,  or  more,  at  the 
door  of  fome  infolent,  unfeeling  monfter,  until 
he  fimfhed  his  dinner,  or  took  his  afternoon's  nap  ; 
and  when  this  was  over,  drove  forward  with  wan- 
ton barbarity  by  the  people  who  attended  us. 

You,  my  Frederick!  who  only  know  the 
mild  and  merciful  dilpofuion  of  the  people  of 
Great  Britain,  where  government,  religion,  and 
long  habit,  have  reduced  charity  and  benevolence 
fo  completely  to  a  lyftem  that  they  leem  to  be  in- 
nate principles  of  the  mind,  can  have  no  concep- 
tion of  a  people  who  will  not  only  look  upon  the 
word  human  aQiftions  with  indifference,  but  take 
a  lavage  delight  in  the  miferiei.  of  their  fellow- 
creatures,  even  where  no  pofiible  advantage  can 
be  reaped  from  their  inhumanity,  and  where  the 
only  reward  they  can  propole  to  themlelvesfor  their 
ciuelty  is  the  plcai'urc  of  contemplating  human  iuf» 
ferings. 


IP  THE  COUNTRY.  £97 

Such,  lorry  am  I  to  fay  it,  is  the  difpofition  of 
fome  parts  of  the  Efcft  Indies  that  I  have  been  in  ; 
and  although  thofe  parts  under  the  dominion  of 
Great  Britain  owe  their  emancipation  from  the 
moil  galling  yokes  to  the  Engiifh — and  though, 
lander  their  aufpiees,  they  live  in  a  flate  of  greater 
happineis  than  ever  they  did,  and  greater  freedom 
even  than  Britons  tiiemfelves — yet  fuch  is  the 
wicked  ingratitude  of  many  of  them,  fuch 
the  inflexible  animofity  arifing  from  a  contra- 
dictory religion,  that  the  death  or  luffering  of  an 
Englifhman,  or  any  misfortune  that  may  befal  him, 
ofien  ferves  only  as  matter  of  fport  or  amuiement 
to  thern.  It  would  be  well  if  it  refled  there—- 
but  unfortunately  they  are  worfe  again  ;  for  in  ge- 
neral they  have  the  like  coldnefs  and  indifference,, 
or  indeed,  to- f peak,  more  properly,  the  like  avcr- 
fion,  to  each  others  good  ;  and  the  fame  diabolical 
principles  of  felfifhnefs  and  treachery  pervade  the 
greater  number  in  thofe  vatl  regions,  almolt  bound- 
lefs  in  extent,  and 'aim oft  matchlefs  in  fertility. 

Two  days  after  this,  we  were  moved  again,  and 
marched  up  the  country  by  a  long  and  eircuitious 
route,  in  which  we  underwent  every  hardfhipthat 
cruelty  could  inflict,  or  human  fortitude  endure— 
now  blillered  with  the  heaf,  now  drenched  with 
the  rain,  and  now  chilled  with  the  night  damps 
— deftitute  of  any  place  but  the  bare  earth  to  reft  0£ 
lay  our  h«adao-,  with  only  a  fcanty  pittance  of  boil- 
ed nee  for  our  (upport — often  without  water  to 
quench  our  thiiil,  and  conftantly  goaded  by  thfj 
guards,  who  pricked  us  with  their  bayonets  every 
now  and  then,  at  once  to  evince  their  power,  en- 
tertain the  fpeStators,  and  mortify  us.  We  arrived 
at  Hydcinagur,  the  metropolis  of  the  province 
of  Biddanore — a  fort  of  confidereble  itrength, 
mounting  upwards  of  feventy  guns,  containing  * 
large   ganifon  of   men,  and  poflefied  of   iinnxenia 

WSdltll, 


29$        SENT  UNDER  A  GUARU,  &c. 

It  was  about  two  o'clock  in  the  morning  when 
we  arrived  at  Bicidanore  :  the  day  was  extremely 
hot,  and  we  were  kept  out  under  the  full  heat  of 
that  broiling  fun  till  hx  o'clock  in  the  evening,  be- 
fore we  were  admitted  to  an  audience  of  the  Je- 
madar, or  governor  of  the  place,  without  having 
a  mouthful  of  victuals  offered  to  us  after  the  fati- 
guing march  cf  the  morning. 

While  we  flood  in  this  forlorn  (late,  a  vail  con- 
i.~cui  i'e  of  people  collected  about,  and  viewe  J  us  with 
euiioiuy.  Looking  round  through  thoie  who  flood 
r-careil.  I  obferved  lome  men  gazing  at  me  with 
frrong  minks  of  emotion,  snd  a  mixture  of  wonder 
ar;d  concern  pourtraytd  in  their  countenance*. 
Surpnfed  to  fee  (uch  iymptorns  of  humanity  in  a 
Mylorian  Indian,  I  looked  at  them  with  more  fcru'.i- 
inizing  attention,  and  thought  that  their  faces 
were  familiar  to  me.  Catching  my  eye,  they  locked 
at  me  fignificantly,  as  though  they  would  exprefs 
lheir  regard  and  refpect  for  me,  it  they  dared  ;  and 
I  then  began  to  recoilctt  that  they  were  formerly 
privates  in  my  regiment  of  cavalry,  and  were  then 
prisoners  at  large  with  Hydkr. 

I  was  not  leis  furpiifed  that  thofe  poor  fellows 
fiiould  recognile  me  in  my  prefent  milerable  fallen 
ftate,  than  affected  at  the  lympathetic  feeling  they 
difclofed.  I  returned  their  look  with  a  private  nod 
of  recognition  ;  but,  feeing  that  they  were  afraid 
to  fpeak  to  me,  and  Tearing  1  mtgni  ii.jur©  ii.C^l 
by  difclofmg  our  acquaintance,  I  forbore  any  thing 
more.  The  guilty  fouls  of  defpotic  governments 
are  perpetually  alive  to  fufpicion  :  everv  look  alarms 
them  ;  and  alarm  or  lufpicion  never  fails  to  be  fol- 
lowed up  with  prolcripiion  or  death. 

Men,  when  in  the  fuilnefs  of  power  and  pride 
of  office,  very  (eldom  give  themlelves  time  to  reflect 
upon  the  in  (lability  of  human  greatneis,  and  the 
uncertainty  of  earthly  contingencies.  When,  in- 
veiled   wilh  alU  the  trappings  of  authority,  1  com- 


COMMITTED  TO  PRISON.         299 

irianded  the  regiment  to  which  thofe  poor  fellows 
qed.  I  would  have  thought  that  he  fpoke 
wilciiv  indeed  who  would  have  alledged  that  it  was 
Boflible  I  could  ever  become  an  object  of  their  pity 
r  I  inould  ftand  n*ked  and  degraded  before 
fhem,  and  ihev  be  afraid  to  acknowledge  me  ;  bur, 
thdagh  I  fh'/uld  hive  thought  Jo  then,  ft  was  yet 
feme  comfort  'o  me,  when  that  unfortunate  event 
did  come  to  pals,  to  reflect,  that,  when  in  power, 
1  -Made  h-cfi  ule  of  it  as  to  excite  emotions  in  their 
boloms  «>f  affe&ion  and  reipe£h  Did  the  tyrant 
and  overbearing  infolent  chiefs  confider  this,  and 
govern  themfr.lves  by  its  inftru&ions,  they  would 
go  into  the  field  with  the  conloling  reflection,  that 
no  (»un  would  be  levelled  at  their  head  except  that 
of  !ne  common  enemy— a  thing  that  does  not  al- 
ways happen. 


LETTER    XLIX. 

■  ,    r.  .     :  ' ■  ~ — ~    ■  -,  _     u  B 


H 


.AD  we  been  made  priloners  of  war  in 
battle  agairifl  an  enemy,  there  is  no  law  of  nature  or 
nations,  no  rule  of  reafon  or  principle  of  equity, 
that  could  palliate  fuch  treatment  as  that  which 
we  now  received  :  but,  -  oft  by  misfortune 
and  fhip-wreck  on  their  fhoie,  we  were  entitled  to 
folace  and  protection.  The  word  wretches  who 
hang  out  falfe  beacons  on  the  weflern  coafts 
of  England,  to  alluie  (hips  to  their  deftru&ion, 
would  not  be  cruel  without  temptation  ;  and,  if 
they  did  not  expect  to  gain  Tome  profit  by  it,  would 
rather  decline  knocking  their  f'llow-creatures  in  the 
head  :  but  thofe  barbarians,  without  any  profit  but 
V  hat  a  malignant  heart  derives  from  the  miferies  of 
others,  or  any  pleafure^but  what  proceeds  from  their 


SCO         COMMITTED  TO  PRISOls. 

pain,  exercifed  upon  us  the  moft  wanton  cruelty. 
Compared  with  focb  treat  men,  irftar.t  death  would 
have  I  een  an  act  of  mercy  to  us  ;  and  we  fhould  have 
had  rcaion  to  b!e!s  the   hand  that  inflated  it. 

Mortifications  of  one  fott  or  other — the  inceffant 
tortuiiijg  of  the  mind  on  the  tack  of  fuipenle — the 
injuries  to  the  animal  fyftern,  occafioned  by  con- 
ftant  expolure  to  the  weather,  and  '.he  want  of  food 
— all  conipiied  to  reduce  me  to  the  dimenfions  and 
feeblenefs  of  a  fkeleton.  I  had  grown  daily  weaker 
and  weaker,  and  was  now  neai  ly  exhaufted,  and 
quite  faint  ;  while,  on  the  other  hand,  my  amiable 
companion  in  affliction  was  reduced  by  a  dyfentery, 
which  attacked  him  foon  after  our  (hipwreck,  and 
which  the  torments  of  his  mind,  the  want  of  medi- 
cine and  comfortable  food,  and,  above  all,  the  alter? 
Date  violent  changes  from  profufe  perfpiration  in 
walking  to  chilling  cold  at  night,  had  increafed  to 
iuch  an  alarming  degree,  that  he  was  obliged  to  be 
carried  the  two  laft  days  journey  : — In  this  Mate, 
we  appeared  to  each  other  as  two  Ipc&res  hanging 
over  the  brink  of  the  grave  :  and  in  truth,  perceiv- 
ing the  rapid  progrefs  he  was  making  to  his  diflblu- 
tion,  I  was  affected  to  a  degiee,  that,  while  it  really 
exa.'perated  my  own  worn-down  (late,  deprived 
me  of  all  attention  to  the  rapid  decline  I  was  fall- 
ing into,  and  almoft  entirely  engrofied  my  care.  In 
my  progiefs  through  life,  I  have  had  occafion  to  try 
ieveral  men,  and  have  found  among  them  many 
0  were  every  tiling  that  a  good  heait  could  with 
to  find  :  but  this  young  gentleman  had  at  once  fo 
much  fuavity  and  fpirit —  iuch  gentlenefs  and  forti- 
titude — his  luiTerings  (thofe  of  his  mind,  as  well  as 
thole  of  his  body)  were  fo  exqu.iite,  and  he  bote 
them  with  Iuch  roeeknels,  tempered  by  fuch  unin- 
terrupted good  humour,  and  concealed  and  managed 
with  lo  much  delicacy,  that  I  do  not  tranlgrels  the 
bounds  of  truth  when  I  fay  I  never  met  one  who 
fo  entirely  in  tc  relied  my  feelings,  and  attached  . 


COMMITTED  TO  PRISON.         301 

friendfhip  fo  unalterably,  upon  principles  of  in- 
flinct.ive  imoulfe,  as  well  as  reafon.  Impelled  by 
the  irrefiftible  claims  he  had  upon  my  approbation 
and  efteem,  I  entered  with  all  the  warmth  of  a 
bro  o  his  fu Seringa,  and  can  aflert  with  truth 

that  they  conflituted  the  fevereft  trials  I  underwent 
during  my  whole  imprifonment. 

, tie  we  Rood  in  the  court,  waiting  to  be 
brought  before  the  Jerrrsdar.  we  prefented  a  fpe&a- 
cle  that  would  have  wrung  pity,   one  wc  nk, 

from  the  heart  of  a  tiger,  if  a  tiger  was  endued 
with  reflection.  At  length  we  were  furomoned  to 
appear   before   him,  and  brought  s  prefe-.. 

1  had  made  up   my   mind    for   the   oc  W> 

mined    to   deport    myielf  in  a  manly,   c  -3n- 

—  l'.id  to   let   no   confidera  ion   what ioever  lead 
me  to  any  thing  difgraceful  to  my  re  .   or 

unworthy    mv    fituation    in    life  ;  and,    fi  !:ad 

prepared  myielf  to  meet,  without  fhrink 
ever    misfortunes    might    yet   be    in    (lore    for 
or  wn^cver   cruelties   the   barbarous  or 

wicked  policy  of  the  Tyrant  might  t;  to 

inflict. 

On  entering,  we  found  the  Jemadar  in  f 
bar.*      He    was   then   occupied  with  the  ,  of 

difpatches,   and  in  traniacY;ng  other  public  h 
We  weie    placed  directly    oppohte    to   h  ere 

we    flood    for    near  an  hour,   during  which  I 
never  caft  his  eyes  towards  us;   but  when  ■*. 
had  concluded   the    bufineis,   in   which    I  : 
gaged,   and  deigned  to  look  at  us,   wc  were  1 
to  pioftrate  ourfelves  before  him:    tire    La  fears 
mediately  obeyed   the  order,   and  threw  » 

On  the  ground  ;   but  I  contented  myftif    . 
ing  a  faiam,   in  which  poor  Mr.  Hall,    \ 
Oot   tire   Eaftern    manner  as    I    did,    follow 
example. 

*  Court. 
Cc 


5*2         COMMITTED  TO  PRISON. 

As  foon  as  this  ceremony  was  over,  the  Jemadar 
(who  was  no  other  man  than  the  famous  Hyat 
Sahib  that  has  made  fome  noile  in  the  hitlory  of 
that  war)  began  to  queflion  me.  He  defired  to 
know,  who  1  was  ? — what  my  profeffion  was  ? — 
what  was  the  caufe  and  manner  of  my  approaching 
the  country  of  Hyder  Alli  ?--To  all  thofe  ques- 
tions I  gave  anlwers  that  feemed  to  iatisfy  him. 
He  then  afked  me,  what  news  I  had  brought  with 
me  from  Europe  ? — inquired  into  the  Mate  of  th« 
army,  and  number  of  recruits  difpatched  in  the 
fhips  of  that  feafon — was  minute  and  circumflantiai 
in  his  queftions  refpe&ing  the  nature  and  fuccefs  of 
the  war  in  Europe — and  examined  me  clofely, 
touching  the  refources  of  the  Eafl  India  Company. 
I  faw  his  drift,  and  was  cautious  and  circumfpe& 
in  my  anfwers,  and  at  the  fame  lime  contrived  to 
ipeak  with  an  air  of  candour  that  in  iome  fort  latis- 
fied  him. 

Having  exhaufled  his  whole  firing  of  queftions, 
he  turned  the  difcourfe  to  another  1  u bj e 61 — no  lefs 
than  his  great  and  puiffant  Lord  and  Mailer,  Hy- 
der, of  whom  he  had  endeavoured  to  imprefs  me 
with  a  great,  if  not  terrible  idea — amplifying  hi* 
power,  h  s  wealth,  and  the  extent  and  opulei.ce  of 
his  dominions — and  delcribing  to  me,  in  the  mo  ft 
exaggerated  terms,  the  number  of  his  troops — his 
military  talents — his  vaft,  ana,  according  to  his 
Recount,  unrivalled  genius — his  amazing  abilities 
in  conquering  and  governing  Nations — and,  above 
all,  his  many  amiable  qualities,  and  iplendid  en- 
tnents  of  heart,   no  lels  than  undei {landing. 

Having  thus,  with  equal  zeal  and  fidelity,  en- 
deavoured tp  imprefs  me  with  veneration  for  his 
Lord  and  Mailer,, and  for  that  purpofe  attributed 
to  him  every  perfection  that  may  be  iuppofed  to  be 

-ided  among  all  the  Kings  and  Generals  that  have 
lived  fincc  the  birth  of  Christ,  and  given  each 
their  due,  he  turned  to  the  Englifh  Government, 


COMMITTED  TO  PRISON.         303 

tnd  endeavoured  to  demonflrate  to  me  the  folly  and 
inutility  of  our  attempting  to  reiift  his  progrefs, 
which  he  compared  to  that  of  the  ies,  to  a  tempeft, 
to  a  torrent,  to  a  lion's  pace  and  fury — to  every 
thing  that  an  Extern  imagination  could  fuggeft  as 
a  figure  proper  to  exemplify  grandeur  and  irrefifti- 
ble  power.  He  then  vaunted  of  his  Sovereign's 
iuccefles  over  the  Englifh,  fome  of  which  I  had 
not  heard  of  before,  and  did  not  believe  ;  and  con- 
cluded by  a  {Turing  me,  that  it  was  Ryder's  deter- 
mination to  drive  ail  Europeans  from  Indoflan, 
which  he  averred  he  could  not  fail  to  do,  coniider- 
ing  the  weaknels  of  the  one,  anci  boundleis  power 
of  the  other.  This  part  of  Hyat  Sahib's  dii- 
courfe  is  well  worth  your  remembering,  as  it  will 
ferve  to  make  a  very  diverting  contrail  with  his 
fubfequent  conduct. 

After  having  expended  near  half  an  hour  in  thit 
manner,  he  called  upon  me  to  come  over  near  him, 
and  caufed  me  to  feat  myfelf  upon  a  mat  with  a 
pillow  to  lean  upon — encouraged  me,  by  every 
means  he  could,  by  the  moft  gentle  accents,  and 
the  moft  Toothing,  mollifying  language,  to  ipeak  to 
him  without  the  leaft  referve — exhoiied  me  to  tell 
him  the  truth  in  every  thing  we  fpoke  of — and 
hinted  to  me,  that  my  falling  into  his  hands  might 
turn  out  the  moft  fortunate  event  of  my  life. 

I  was  at  a  lols  to  what  motive  to  attribute  all  thofe 
lingular  marks  of  indulgence  ;  but  found  that  he 
had  learned  whofe  Ion  I  was,  and  knew  my  father 
by  reputation  from  the  prifoners,  our  Sepoys,  who 
were  now  prifoners  at  large  here  :  and  as  rank  and 
office  are  the  chief  recommendation  in  the  Eaft,  as 
well  as  ellewhere,  or  rather  much  more  than  any 
where  elfe,  the  fagacious  Hyat  Sahib  found  many 
claims  to  efteem  and  humanity  in  me  as  the  ion  of 
a  Colonel  Campbell,  which  he  never  would  have 
found  in  me  had  I  been  the  fon  of  a  plain  humblt 
farmer  or  tradefman  in  England. 


304        COMMITTED  TO  PRISON. 

After  a  full  hour's  audience,  in  which  Hyat 
Sahib  treated  me  with  diitinguiihed  marks  of  his 
favour,  confidering  my  fituation,  he  difmiffed  me 
with  the  ceremony  of  beetle-nut,*  roie-water,  and 
other  compliments,  which  are  in  that  country  held 
e  ftrongeft  marks  of  politenefs,  refpeft,  and 
good-will. 

Leaving  the  Durbar,    I  was  led  to  the   inner  fort 

or  citadel  :  and  the  officious  zeal  of  thofe  about  me, 

-ling  to  let  me  remain    ignorant  of  that  which 

conceived  to  be  a  mod   fortunate   turn   in  my 

■'       «%  •   the   coup    dc  grace  to  my   mileries  ab  I 

by  congratulating  me  on  the  favourable 

he  jemadar  had  formed  of  me,  and 

[acne   time   that  1  would  foon  be 

'  .pechbie  command  in  Ryder's 

• 

>  before,  this  intimation  entire- 
remnant  of  peace  or   hope.      I 
i  ihouland  deaths  -foener  than 
ile    to   Great  Britain — but  dill 
t,    whole    country,   nature  and  princi- 
.    I rever  think  of  without 
a  I  judged,    triat  if  iuch  an 
ilea    it;     my  life 
,  to   the  and  diiappoint- 

,   v..   .. :  lei  ft    1  fhould    live  a  life    of  imprifon- 
ment,    and    nevei     more    behold    country,   family, 
.  ne&ions,   cr  any   thing  that    I    valued 
in  life. 

That  night  the  Jemac  c  an  excellent  fup- 

per,  of  nor  lefa  than  fix  is  own  table  ; 

and  although  I  had  been  .  famifliing  with  the 

want  of  wholeibme  foo  ea  of  beiiig  enlilled 

in  the  fervice  of  Hyder  ftruck  me  with  luch  hor- 
ror, that  I  left  all  appetite,  and  was  scarcely  able 
to  eat  a   mouthful.      Mr.    Hall    and    I,    however, 

*  An  aromatic  nut  which  the  Eaft  Indians  chew ;  it  is  warn*, 
and  aftringent,  and  couiidcred  by  them  a  great  refiorative. 


COMMITTED  TO  PRISON.         305 

were  feperated  from  the  Lafcars,  who  were  releafed 
and  forced  to  work. 

Notwithstanding  the  favourable  intentions  mani- 
fefted  towards  me  by  the  Jemader,  as  I  have  alrea- 
dy mentioned,  no  mark  of  it  whatfoever  appeared 
irf  our  lodging.  This  confided  of  a  fmall  place, 
exactly  the  fize  of  our  length  and  breadth,  in  the 
zig-zag  of  one  of  the  gates  of  the  citadel  :  it  was 
open  in  front,  but  covered  with  a  kind  of  a  fhed 
on  the  top  ;  and  a  number  of  other  prifoners  were 
about  us  :  e^ch  of  us  was  allowed  a  mat  and  pillow, 
and  this  formed  the  whole  of  our  local  accommoda- 
tions. Upon  my  remarking  ir,  we  were  told,  that 
in  conformity  to  the  cuftom  of  the  Circar,*  we 
muft  be  treated  fo  for  fome  time,  but  that  our  ac- 
commodations would  afterwards  be  extended,  and 
made  more  agreeable  to  our  wifhes  :  even  this  was 
better  than  our  fituation  fince  we  landed. 

In  addition  to  this  luxury,  we  were  allowed  to 
the  value  of  four  pence  halfpenny  a  day  for  our 
maintenance  ;  and  a  guard  of  Sepoys  was  put  over 
us  and  a  few  more  priloners,  one  of  whom  was  di- 
rected to  go  and  purchaie  our  victuals,  and  do  fuch 
offices  for  us. 

This  guard  was  changed  every  week — a  ftrong 
mark  of  the  fulpicious  and  wary  tempers  of  thole 
people,  who  could  fear  intrigues  and  cabals  between 
wretched  prifoners  like  us  and  their  ioldiers. 

In  two  or  three  days  after  this,  Hyat  Sakib 
fent  for  me,  treated  me  with  great  kindnefs,  gave 
me  fome  tea,  and  furnilhed  me  with  two  or  three 
fhirts,  an  old  coat,  and  two  pairs  of  breeches, 
which  were  (tripped  from  the  dead  bodies  that 
were. thrown  aihore  from  trje  wreck — every 'thing 
that  was  iaved  from  e  lent  to  Biddanore.   At 

this    interview    he  trea-cd    me  with  great  refpe£t-- 
gave   me,    behues   the   articles  already  mentioned, 

*  Country  or  Pi-ovince. 
C  c  2 


3°6 


COMMITTED  TO  PRISON. 


thirty  rupees — and,  upon  my  going  away,  told  me 
that  in  a  few  days  a  verv  flattering  propolal  would 
be  made  to  me.  and  that  my  fituation  would  be  ren- 
dered not  only  comfortable,   but  enviable. 

It  is  impofublc  for  me  to  exprefs  to  you,  my  dear 
Frederick  !  the  horror  I  felt  at  the  idea  of  this 
intended  propofal — for  I  knew  but  too  well  what 
it  meant.  It  was  the  fource  of  bitter  mifeiy  to  my 
mind  :  neverthelefs,  I  determined  to  refill  every 
eftoit  that  fhould  be  made,  whether  blandifhment, 
intreaty,  or  menace — to  lay  down  my  life  it  (elf, 
though  in  oblcurity,  with  honour — and  to  carry 
alcrg  with  me,  go  where  I  would,  the  conicioui- 
neis  of  having  done  my  duty. 

I  have  in  the  courie  of  my  life  met  with  many 
people,  who,  under  the  plaufible  pretext  of  libe- 
rality and  greatneis  of  mind,  have  called  themfelve* 
citizens  of  the  world,  and  declared  that  the  coun- 
try where  they  lived,  be  that  what  country  it  might, 
was  their's,  and  demanded  their  allegiance  and  pro- 
tection :  but  I  have  always  fhrewdly  fufpefted,  that 
fuch  men  aft  from  a  confeiouinefs  of  being  outcafts 
of  their  own  country— -and.  fcorned  and  rejected 
by  their  fellow-citizens,  would  retaliate  by  affe&ing 
to  deny  their  natural  attachment.  There  are  men 
who  nei  heir  love  father,  mother,  fitter,  brother, 
or  connection  :  fuch,  however,  are,  thank  God  ! 
very  thinly  fown  in  this  world  ;  but,  except  it  be 
a  few  fuch  unnatural  people,  I  am  convinced  that 
there  is  no  one  whole  heart  does  not  confefs  the 
patriotic  paiTion,  and  burn  with  a  flame,  more  or 
lei's  ardent,  of  love  for  his  country.  My  predi- 
lections that  way  are  naturally  ftrong,  and  I  am 
now  happy  to  rtfieft  that  1  evinced  them  by  the 
mo  ft  unequivocal  proofs  :  had  I  not,  I  were  in- 
deed, in  my  own  opinion,  fit  forany  punifhment, 
however  ignominious  :  and  to  all  fuch  as  lift  their 
arms  againtt  theii  jconntry,  as  to  Parricides,  I  will 
fay,  in   the  words  of  the  poet, 


HISTORY  OF  HYAT  SAHIB.         307 

"  Never  pray  more — abandon  all  remorfe  : 

•'  On  horrors  head,  horrors  accumulate; 

'!  Do  deeds  to  make  Heaven  weep — all  earth  amaz'd ; 

**  For  nothing  can'il  thou  to  damnation  add, 

«  Greater  than  that." 


LETTER    L. 


V_>/N  the.  evening  of  that  day  on  which 
the  Jemadar  Hyat  Sahib  had  honoured  me  with 
an  audience,  given  me  clothes  and  money,  and 
informed  me  that  a  propolal,  which  he  called  flat- 
tering, would  be  made  to  me,  I  was  lent  for  to 
attend,  not  at  the  Durbar,  but  at  the  houfe  of  a 
man  high  in  office.  As  I  expected  to  meet  Hyat 
Sahib  himfelf,  and  trembled  at  the  thoughts  of 
his  expe&ed  proportion,  1  was  furprifed,  and  in- 
deed pleated,  to  find  that  it  was  with  one  of  his 
people  only  I  was  to  have  a  conference.  This 
man,  whofe  name  I  now  forget,  received  me  with 
great  kindnefs,  encouraged  me,  made  me  fit  down 
with  him,  and  began  to  fpeak  of  Hyat  Sahib, 
whom  he  extolled  to  the  fkies,  as  a  perion  endowed 
with  every  great  and  amiable  quality  ;  informing  me 
at  the  fame  t;me,  that  he  was  pofTefTed  of  the  friend- 
ship and  confidence  of  his  matter,  Hyder  Alli, 
in  a  greater  degree  than  any  other  perion— Tip  poo 
Sahib,  his  own  fon,  not  excepted  :  he  then  gave 
me  the  private  hiftory  of  Hyat— faying,  that  he 
was  born  a  Gentoo  prince,  of  one  of  the  provin- 
ces of  the  Malabar  coair,  which  had  fallen  beneath 
the  irrefiftible  arms  of  Hyder,  and  had  been  by 
him  annexed  to  the  vail  Myforean  Empire.  Hy- 
at, he  (aid,  was  then  only  a  boy  of  eleven  or 
twelve  years  of  age,  of  a  moll  promifing  genius, 
and  a  quickneis  of  mind  unul'uaily  met   with  in 


3o3         HISTORY  OF  HYAT  SAHIB. 

one  of  thofe  tender  years.  Hyder,  who  was  ixt 
all  refpe&s  a  man  of  unrivalled  penetiation,  thought 
he  faw  in  the  boy  that  which,  if  properly  culti- 
Yated,  would  turn  out  of  vad  ule  to  a  date  ;  and 
as,  in  all  Mahomedan  governments,  unconnected, 
ifolated  boys,  oft-times  flaves,  are  bred  up  in  the 
feraglio  to  fucceed  to  the  great  offices  of  the  date, 
Hyder.  adopted  the  boy,  had  him  made  a  Mahome- 
dan, and,  in  faff.,  treated  him  as  if  he  had  been  the 
iiTue  of  his  own  loins,  and  brought  him  up  with  all 
the  affecVon  ard  tendernels  of  a  fend  parent.  I  am 
the  more  particular  in  dating  this  part  of  Hyat'i 
hidory  to  you,  as  fome  refpefb.ble  hiftorians1,  de- 
ceived by  erroneous  report,  have  faid  that  he  was 
the  illegitimate  offspring  of  Hyder.  The  iultan, 
however,  ves  not  difappointed  in  the  expectations 
he  had  formed  ;  for  Hyat  Sahib  had,  in  zeal,  fi- 
delity and  attachment,  as  well  as  in  intellectual  facul- 
ties and  talents  for  governing,  even  luipaffed  the 
warmed  hopes  of  his  mafter. 

Having  given  me  this  concife  account  of  the 
Jemadar,  he  proceeded  to  inform  me,  that  the 
Arcot  Sepoys,  whom  I  have  before  mentioned  to 
you,  had  dfcoveied  to  Hyat  Sahib  who  I  was, 
given  him  a  full  account  of  my  Family,  and  inform- 
ed him  that  I  had  comma-nded  a  regiment  of  cavalry 
in  the  fervice  of  the  Nabob  of  At  cot,  together 
wi}h  a  corps  of  infantry  and  artillery  attached  to 
it.  In  confeq  lei  ce  of  this  report,  Hy  at  Sahib, 
he  faid,  had  ini  :r<  fted  himfeif  very  warmly  in  my 
favour,  a. .J  exrpelled  an  anxious  defne  to  render 
me  a  fervice. 

Thus  far  the  difcourfe  plea  f-d  me.  Nothing  was 
faid  in  it  to  give  m<  alarm  ;  on  the  contrary,  I  in- 
dulged a  hope,  that,  knowing  my  ranic,  and  the 
rank  of  my  father,  he  would  no  longer  enteitain  a 
hope  of  my  enter  ng  into  the  fervice  of  Hyder, 
and  for  the  time  I  i/vas  'o  be  in.t  rifoned,  treat  mc 
with  fuitable  indulgence.  But  i  flattered  m/ielf 
too  foon  ;  or,  as  the  old  faying  is,  4;  reckoned  with- 
out wy  hod." 


HISTQRY  OF  HYAT  SAHIB.         309 

When  he  had  finifhed  his  hiftory  of  Kyat  Sa- 
sib,  which  he  overcharged  with  fulfome  panegyric, 
he  told  me,  with  a  face  full  of  that  triumphant  im- 
portance which  one  who  thinks  he  is  conferring  a 
great  favour  generally  affumes,  that  it  was  the  inten- 
tion of  Hyat  Sahi&,  for  and  on  behalf  of  his  maf- 
ter  the  Sultan,  to  give  rre  the  command  of  five 
thoufand  men — an  offer  which  he  fuppoied  I  coald 
not  think  of  declining,  and  therefore  expe&ed  no 
other  anfwer  but  a  profusion  of  thanks,  and  ftrong 
manifestations  of  jjy  on  my  part. 

It  is  not  pofiible  for  me  to  defcribe  to  you  my 
difmay  at  this  formal  propoial,  or  pourtray  to  you 
the  various  emotions  that  took  poiTcffion  of  my 
breafh  Refentment  had  its  [have — the  pride  of  the 
foldier,  not  unaccompanied  with  the  pride  of  fami- 
ly and  rank,  while  it  urged  me  to  fpurn  from  me 
fuch  a  bafe  accommodation,  made  me  cociider  the 
offer  as  a  great  infult.  1  therefore  pauled  a  little,  to 
fupprefs  my  feelings  ;  and  then  told  him  my  firm 
xejblution,  never  to  accept  of  fuch  a  propoial  ;  and 
upon  his  exniefiing  grc^:  aftonifhment  at  mv  de- 
1  fraught  with  advantage,  I  laid 
do'-.v;'.  i..  the  beft  manner  I  could,  my  reaions  ; 
and  1  muft  fay,  fhat  he  listened  to  all  the  objections 
I  Parted  with  gteat  patience  ;  but,  in  the  conclu- 
iion,  laid  he  had  little  doubt  of  finding  means  to 
overcome  mv  reluctance. 

He  difmiffed  me  for  the  prefent,  and  I  returned 
to  my  pri(on,  where  I  related  to  my  companion, 
Mr.  Hall,  every  thing  that  palled  between  us  : 
we  canvailed  the  mntter  fully,  and  he  agreed  with 
me,  that  it  was  likely  to  turn  out^  moil  dreadful 
and  cruel  perlecution.  It  was  on  this  cccalion  that 
I  firft  felt  the  truth  of  the  principle,  that  persecu- 
tion never  fails  to  be  lubverfive  of  its  own  end,  and 
to  promote  that  which.it  is  intended  to  deft: 
There  is,  in  the  human  mind,  an  inn ite abhorrence 
oi    compulfion  ;  and  perlecution  always  gives  new 


310        HISTORY  OF  HYAT  SAHIB. 

ftrengthjand  elafticity  to  the  foul :  and  atlaft,  whea 
drained  to  its  utrroft  extent,  makes  man  furmount 
difHculties  which  at  fir  ft  feem  to  be  beyond  the 
reach  of  humanity. 

Piqued  by  th.:  idea  of  perfecuticn,  I  began  to 
feel  a  degree  of  enthufiafm  which  I  was  before  a 
ftranger  to  :  I  looked  forward,  with  a  kind  of 
gloomy  pleafure,  to  the  mileries  that  brutal  tyranny 
might  ir.flifl:  upon  me,  even  to  death  it  fell  ;  and 
already  began  to  indulge  the  exultation  of  martyr- 
dom "  N  ,''  laid  I,  "  my  dear  Hall!  never  will 
I  tarnifh  the  chara£l:r  of  a  Britifh  soldier — never 
will  1  difgrace  my  blood  or  my  profeffion — never 
{hull  an  aft  of  mine  fully  the  pure  fame  of  my  re- 
vered father — never  fhail  any  fufferings  of  mine, 
however  poignant,  or  woildly  advantage,  however 
feduclive,  tempt  me  to  do  that  which  his  noble  fpirit 
would  regard  with  horror  or  contempt.  I  may, 
and  I  fore  fee  I  muft  be  miferabie  ;  but  I  never  will 
be  bafe  or  degenerate  !"  Indeed.  I  had  wrought 
myfelf  up  to  fuch  a  pitch  of  firmnefs,  that  I  ara 
perfuaded  the  moft  exquiiite  and  refined  cruelties 
which  the  ingenuity  of  an  Iroquois  Indian  could 
have  inflicted  on  my  body,  would  have  been  utterly 
incapable  of  bending  the  ftubborn  temper  of  my 
mind. 

The  place  in  which  we  were  lodged  was  fituated 
in  a  wav  not  very  favourable  to  our  feelings.  Juft 
within  fight  of  it,  the  commandant  of  the  citadel 
held  a  court— -by  him  yclep'd  a  court  of  juftice— — 
where  the  nv>fr  (hocking,  barbmious  cruellies  were 
hour'y  exerciied — moft  of  them  for  the  purpofe  of 
extorting  money,  and  compelling  the  difcovery  of 
hidden,  or  fuppofilious  hidden  trealures.  Indeed, 
five  fixths  of  thole  who  fuffered  were  of  this  det- 
enu; ion  ;  and  the  prccefs  perlued  was  as  artful  as 
batbarious  :  they  fit  ft  begin  with  cardies,  then 
proceeded  to  examination  and  croft-examination, 
thence  to  threats,  thence  to  punifhment,  and  final- 
ly, to  the  moft  cruel  tortures.  - 


HISTORY  OF  HYAT  SAHIB.         3 1 1 

Direftly  oppofite  to  us,  was  imprifoned  an  un- 
fortunate pei  Ion,  who  had  for  years  been  a  clofe 
captive,  and  the  fport  and  fubject.  of  thofe  enormi- 
ties. He  was  a  man  once  of  the  higheft  rank  in 
the  country  where  now  he  was  a  prifoner  :  for  a 
ieries  of  years  he  had  been  govenor  and  fole  mana- 
ger of  the  whole  province  of  Biddanore.  This  was 
during  the  reign  of  the  lafl  Rana,  or  Queen,  whofe 
family  had  been  iovereigns  of  the  country  for  time 
immemorial,  till  Hyder  made  a  con  que  ft  of,  and 
annexed  it  to  his  other  ufurpations.  Unfortunately 
for  him,  he  was  fuppoied  to  have  amaiTed  and  fc- 
creted  enormous  treafures,  in  confequence  of  which 
he  had  already  undergone  the  fiery  ordeal  of  tor- 
ture feveral  times.  He  was  fuppofed  to  have  pro- 
duced, from  firlt  to  laft,  about  fifteen  lacks  of  pa- 
godas ;  and  then,  in  the  courfe  of  eighteen  months, 
was  degraded  gradually,  from  the  high  refoect.  in 
which  he  was  at  firft  held,  down  to  a  mod  abj?cl: 
ftate— threatened,  flogged,  punifhed  in  a  variety  of 
ways,  and,  finally,  put  to  the  mod  cruel  tortures. 
I  myfelf  faw  him  treated  with  the  higheft  degree  of 
lelpcct,,  and  afterwards  br<  ;ht  to  the  lowed  ftage 
of   mifery  and  humiliation.     C  r,   however, 

I  muft  not  forget,   is    the  fortitude 
and  all  of  them  bore  their  punithinent  :  truly 

heroic---indeed3   be\;nd  all  belief.      No  could 

furpafs  it.  :xcept  the  {kill  and  inventive  ingei 
which  the  barbarians  exhibited  in  linking  out 
modes  of  torture.  My  foui  fickened  with  honor 
at  the  fight  :  the  amiable  Hall  could  worie  lup- 
port  it  than  his  own  rmferies,  and  loit  all  that  for- 
titude, in  his  feeling  for  others' misfortunes,  which 
he  difplayed  in  fo  unbounded  a  (bare  in  his  own  : 
and  often,  very  often,  we  found  the  rigour  and 
iiy  of  our  own  fituation  utteily  forgotten  in 
our  anguilh  and  fympathy  for  the  tufTerings  of 
others.  Never  (hall  I  forget  it  :  never  {hall  1  think 
without  horror  of   the  accurled  policy  and  wicked 


$12         HISTORY  OF  HYAT  SAHIB. 

tyranny  of  the  Eaflern  governments,  where  every 
fenfe  of  humanity  is  extinguished,  and  man,  mor« 
mercilefs  than  the  tyger,  riots  in  the  blood  of  his 
fellow-creatures  without  caufe. 

Mr.  Hall,  notwithstanding  the  various  fufferings 
both  of  mind   and  body  which   he  had    undergone, 
began  to  recruit,  and  get   a  little   better  ;    and  this 
circumftance,  of  itielf,    diffuied   a    flow  of    fpirits 
over  me  that  contributed  to  my  fupport.     We  con- 
foled  each  other  by  every  means  we  could  devile — 
fometimes   indulging    in   all   the    luxury   of  woe — 
fometimes  rallying  each  oiher,  and,  with   ill-diiTem- 
bled  fprightlineis,   calling  on  the  goddef*  Euph ro- 
sy ne  to  come  with    her   il  quirps   and  cranks,    and 
wreathed /miles  :"  but,  alas!    the  mountain  nymph, 
fweet    Liberty,     was   far  away,    and    the    goddefs 
fhunned  our  abode.      We    however   began   to   con- 
ceive that  we  might  form    a    fyftem  for   our  relief, 
and  by  a    method. cal    arrangement,    entrench   our- 
felves  from   the   affaults   of  grief  :   to  this  end,   we 
foimed  lev^ral  reforutions,  and  enter*  d  into  certain 
engagements — fuch  as,   nevei  to  repine  at  our   fate, 
if   ue  could — '■'.■>  draw    confojation    from    the    more 
ul  lot  of  others,  if  we  cculd  ; — and  to  encou- 
tope — hope   that  comes  to  all  ;    and,    on  the 
whole,  to  confine  our  conversation  as  much  as  pofTi- 
ble  to    fubje£t&  of    an  agreeable   nature:   but  thefe, 
other  uiies    which  we  lay  doww  for  the 
:t  of    life,   were  often    broken    by    neceility, 
i  left  us  to  regrel  the  fallibility  of  all  human  pre- 
-    ns. 
2  youth  end  ftrength  of  Mr.  Hall  was  to  the 
full  as  adequate  as  mine  to  the  iupport  of    any  per- 
ioral I  :    his  intellectual  powers  were  excel- 
lent,   his    temper   incomparable,    and    his   fortitude 
unparalleled  ;  yet  could  1  lee,  that  lomething  mora 
than    appeared    upon   the    furface    wrought    within 
him,  and  gnawed  his  heart  with  hidden  pain.   Uni- 
ted as  we   were  by  ientiment,  as  well  as  by  polity 


Mr.  HALL's  AFFECTING  STORY.     313 

^>f  fuffering,  I  felt  for  him  too  deeply,  not  to  have 
an  interefting  <;uriofity  to  know  what  it  was  that 
preyed  upon  his  mind  :  we  had  been,  months  to- 
gether, fcllow-fufferers  ;  and  I  thought  myielf  not 
without  forae  claim  to  his  confidence — i  told  him 
io,  and  defired  him  to  impart  to  me  his  (lory; 
which  he,  with  his  accuflomed  fuavity  and  conde- 
fcenfion,  agreed  to — alluring  me  that  it  was  not 
fuch  a  flory  as  could  requite  the  trouble  of  hearing 
it,  or  intereft  any  one  but  himlelf,  or  fome  very 
warm  friend  indeed  :  fuch,  however,  he  added,  he 
took  me  to  be  ;  and,  as  fuch,  would  tell  it  to  me. 
•I  think  it,  however,  worth  relating,  and  will  give 
it  to  you  in  his  own  words  ;  and,  though  it  be 
very  fhort,  mult  defer  the  relation  to  another 
letter. 


LETTER    LI. 


M 


•  k.  Hall  having,  as  I  told  you  in  my 
laft,  obligingly  agreed  to  favour  me  with  a  rela- 
tion of  his  flory,  I  now  give  it  to  you  as  nearly 
in  his  own  woads  as  I  can  remember  them.  He 
proceeded  thus.; 

*'  Ahbough  you  are  now,  my  dear  friend  !  a 
withefs  to  my  being  the  moft  perfectly  wretched  cf 
all  created  beings,  yet  the  time  is  not  long  pad 
when  fortune  Imiled  upon  and  gave  me  promiie  of 
as  much  happineis  as  Man  in  this  wretched  vale  cf 
tears  i;  allowed  by  his  circumfenbed  naiuie  to  hope 
for.  I  have  leen  the  time,  when  each  revolving 
fun  rofe  to  ufher  me  to  a  day  of  joy,  and  let  to 
conlign  me  to  a  night  of  undiflurbed  repofe — when 
the  bounties  of  Nature,  and  the  productions  of 
Art,  were  poured  with  the  profufion  of  fond  pale;- 

D  d 


314     Mr.  HALL's  AFFECTING  STOHY. 

nal  affe£lion  into  my  lap — when  troops  of  friends 
hailed  my  rifing  proipects — when  health  and  peace 
made  this  perion  their  uninterrupted  abode — and 
when  the  molt  benignant  love  that  ever  bleiTed  a 
mortal  filled  up  the  meafuie  of  my  bl i is.  Yes, 
Campbell!  it  was  once  my  happinels,  though 
now,  alas!  the  (outce  of  poignant  miiery,  to  be 
bleiTed  with  the  bed  parents  that  ever  watched 
over  the  welfare  of  a  child — with  friends,  too, 
who  loved  me,  and  whom  my  heart  cherifhed — 
and — O  God!  do  I  think  of  her,  and  yet  retain 
my  fenles — with  the  affe&ions  of  a  young  lady, 
than  whom  providence,  in  the  fullnefs  of  its 
power  and  bounty  to  mankind,  never  formed  one 
more  lovely,  one  more  angelic  in  peifon,  more 
heavenly  in  difpofition,  more  rich  in  intellectual 
endowments.  Alas!  my  friend,  will  you,  can  you 
pardon  thofe  warm  ebullitions  of  a  fond  paflion  ? 
"will  you  for  a  moment  enter  into  my  feelings,  and 
make  allowance  for  thofe  tranfports  ?  But  how  can 
you  ?  Your  friendship  and  pity  may  indeed  induce 
you  to  excufe  this  interruption  ;  but,  to  fympathile 
truly,  and  feel  as  I  feel,  you  mult  have  known  the 
charming  girl  herfelf. 

"  My  father,  though  he  did  not  move  in  the 
very  fir'ft  walk  of  life,  held  the  rank  of  a  Gentle- 
man by  birth  and  education,  and  was  refpe&able, 
not  only  as  a  man  of  conhderable  property,  but  as 
a  perfon.  who  knew  how  to  turn  the  gifts  of  for- 
tune to  their  bed  account  :  he  was  generous  with- 
out prodigality,  and  charitable  without  oRentation  : 
he  was  allowed  by  all  who  knew  him  to  be  the  mod 
lender  of  hufbands — the  mod  zealous  and  fincere 
of  friends  ;  and  I  can  bear  witnels  to  his  being  the 
bed  of  parents.  As  long  as  I  can  remember  to 
have  been  able  to  make  a  remark,  the  tenderneis  of 
my  father  and  mother  knew  no  bounds:  I 
feemed  to  occupy  all  their  thoughts,  all  their  atten- 
tion ;  and  in  a  few  years,  as  I  thank  God  I  never 


Mr.  HALL's  AFFECTING  STORY.     315. 

made  un  unfuitable  return  for  their  affection,  it  in- 
creafed  to  fuch  a  degree,  that  their  exiitence  Teemed 
to  hang  upon  mine. 

"  To  make  fo  much  of  a  child  fo  beloved  as  his 
natural  talents  would  allow,  no  expence  was  Iparcd 
in  my  education  :  from  childhood,  every  in  ft  ruc- 
tion that  money  could  purchafe.  and  every  allure- 
ment to  learn,  that  for.dnefs  could  fugged,  were 
bellowed  upon  me  :  while  my  beloved  faiher  trac- 
ing the  advances  I  made  with  the  magnifying  eye  of 
affection,  would  hang  over  me  in  rapture,  and  en- 
joy by  anticipation  the  fame  and  honours  tint, 
overweening  fonclnels  fuggefted  to  him,  mud  one 
day  furround  me.  Thefe  prejudices,  my  dear  friend  ! 
arifing  from  the  excels  of  natural  affection,  are  ex- 
cufeable,  if  not  amiable,  and  deferve  a  better  fate 
than  diiappointment.  Alas!  my  honoured  father, 
you  little  knew — and,  oh!  may  you  never  know, 
what  fort  of  fame,  what  fort  of  honours,  await 
your  child  !  May  the  anguifh  he  endures,  and  his 
mod  calamitious  fate,  never  reach  your  ears! — for, 
too  well  I  know,  'twould  give  a  deadly  wrench  to 
your  heart,  and  precipitate  you  untimely  to  your 
grave. 

M  Thus  years  rolled  on  ;  during  which,  time 
feemed  to  have  added  new  wings  to  his  flight,  io 
quickly  did  they  pafs.  Unmarked  by  any  of  thofe 
Unifier  events  that  parcel  out  the  time  in  weary 
flages  to  the  unfortunate,  it  (lid  on  unperceived; 
and  an  enlargement  in  my  fize,  and  an  increafe  of 
knowledge,  were  all  I  had  to  inform  me  that  eigh- 
teen years  had  paffed  away. 

It  was  at  this  time  that  I  fir  ft  found  the  frnooth 
current  of  my  tranquility  interrupted,  and  the  tide 
of  my  feelings  fwelled  and  agitated,  by  the  accefiion 
of  new  ftreams  of  fenfation — In  fhort  1  became  a 
flave  to  the  delicious  pains  of  Love  ;  and,  after 
having  borne  them  in  concealment  for  a  long  time, 
at  length  collected  courage  10  declare  it.    Franknels 


316     Mr.  HALL's  AFFECTING  STORY. 

and  candour  were  among  the  virtues  of  my  belov- 
ed :  fhe  liftened  to  the  protections  of  affeftion,. 
and.  rifing  above  the  lir.Ie  arts  of  her  iex,  avowed 
a  reciprocal  attachment.  The  meafure  of  my  blifa 
frcmed  now  to  be  full  :  the  purity  of  my  paflion 
was  focb,  that  the  thoughts  of  the  grofler  animal 
defires  Mever  once  cccuied  ;  and  happy  in  loving,, 
and  b?in£  beloved,  we  p?.(Ted  our  time  in  all  the  in- 
nocent bJandifiiments  which  truly  virtuous  love  in- 
lpires,  without  our  imag' nation  roaming  even  for 
ari  ir.Rant  into  the  wilds  of  feniuality. 

"  As  I  was  to  inherit  a  genteel,  independent 
fortune,  my  father  propofed  to  breed  me  up  to  a 
learned  piofciT.on — 'he  Law  ;  rather  to  invigorate 
and  excie-fe  my  intellects,  and  as  a  ftep  to  timk  in 
the  fL'e.  -than  for  mere  lucrative  purpofes,  I  was 
put  to  one  of  the  univcifuies,  with  an  allowance 
j.'itcd  to  his  intentions  towards  me  ;  and  was  im- 
mediately to  have  been  fent  to  travel  for  my  fu  ther 
improvement,  when  an  unfoiefeen  accident  hap- 
pened, which  immediately  ciufhecf  all  my  fathers- 
views,  ddfhed  the  cup  of  happinefs  from  my  lips,, 
and  brought  me  ultimately  to  that  deplcrable  ftate 
in  which  you  have  now  the  misfortune  to  be  join- 
ed a!on£  with  me. 

(i  It  was  but  a  few  months  antecedent  to  my 
embarking  for  the  eaflern  woild,  that  my  father^ 
v  horn  I  had  for  fome  time  with  forrow  obferved 
thoughtful,  ftudious  and  melancholy,  took  me  into 
iiis  ftudj,  and,  feizing  my  hand,  and  looking  ear- 
neftiy  into  my  face,  while  his  countenance  betrayed 
ihe  violent  agitation  of  his  mind,  afked  me  empha- 
ticallv,  if  I  thought  I  had  fortitude  to  bear  the 
gi eat  eft  poffible  calamity  ?  I  was  horror-flruck  at 
his  emotion,  accompanied  by  Inch  a  queftion — 
but  replied,  I  hoped  I  had.  He  then  aiked  me  if 
I  had  afTcciion  enough  for  him  to  forgive  him  if  he 
was  the  caufe  of  it  ?  I  anfwered,  that  the  idea 
connected    with    the    word    forgivenej^    was    :'at 


Mr.  HALL's  AFFECTING  STORY.     3  I  7 

which  I  could  never  be  brought  by  any  earthly 
circumstance  to  apply  to  my  father  ;  but  begged 
him  at  once  to  difclofe  the  word  to  me — as,  be  it 
what  it  might,  my  mifery  could  not  (urpafs  what 
I  then  felt  from  the  myflerious  manner  in  which 
he  then  (poke. 

M  He  then  told  me  that  he  was  an  undone  man — 
that  he  had,  with  the  very  beft  intentions,  and 
with  the  view  of  aggrandizing  me,  engaged  in  great 
and  important  fpeculations,  which,  had  they  tuc- 
ceeded,  would  have  given  us  a  piincely  foi  tune- 
but,  having  turned  out,  unfortunately,  the  reverfe, 
had  left  him  little  above  beggary.  He  added,  that 
he  had  not  the  reioiution  to  communicate  his  lofles 
to  me,  until  neceiiity  compelled  him  to  tell  me  all 
the  truth. 

"  Although  this  w^s  a  fevere  fhock  to  me,  I  en- 
deavoured to  conceal  my  feelings  from  my  father, 
on  vvhofe  account,  more  than  on  my  own,  I  was  af- 
fected, and  pretended  to  make  as  light  of  it  as  fo 
very  important  a  misfortune  would  juftify  ;  and  I 
had  the  happinsfs  to  perceive  that  the  worthy  man 
took  fome  comfort  from  my  fuppoied  indifference. 
I  conjured  him  not  to  let  lo  very  trivial  a  thing  as 
the  lots  of  property,  which  could  be  repaired, 
break  in  on  his  peace  of  mind  or  health,  which 
could  not  ;  and  obferved  to  him,  that  we  had  all 
oi  us  (till  enough — for  that  my  private  property 
(which  I  poffeffed  independent  of  him,  and  which. 
a  relation  left  me)  would  amply  fupply  all  our  nu- 
ce  Hi  ties. 

"  Having  thus  endeavoured  to  accommodate  my 
unhappy  father's  feelings  to  his  lodes,  I  had  yet  to 
accommodate  my  own  ;  and  began  to  revolve  in 
my  mind  what  was  likely  to  enfue  from,  and  what 
ftep  was  mod  proper  to  be  taken,  in  this  dreadful 
change  of  circumltances.  That  which  lay  neared 
my  heart  fir  it  occurred  ; — you  will  read  I!  v  guefe 
that  I  mean  my  love  :  to  involve  her  3 

D  d  2 


3l8     Mr.  IIALL's  AFFECTING  STORY. 

far  more,  than  my  life,  in  the  misfortunes  of  my 
fjtniiy,  was  too  horrible  a  confideration  to  be  out- 
weighed even  by  the  dread  of  lofing  her.  I  knew 
not  what  to  do,  and  I  thought  upon  it  till  I  became 
aimofl  enfrenzied — la  this  flate  I  went  to  her,  and 
unfolded  the  whole  flate  of  our  concerns,  together 
with  my  refolution  not  to  involve  her  in  our  ruin  ; 
—when-— can  you  believe  it  ?— the  lovely  girl  in- 
filled on  making  my  fate  indiifolubly  her's-— not,  as 
fhe  faid,  that  fhc  had  the  fmallefl  appreheniion 
lapfe  of  time  or  change  of  circumftance  could  make 
an  alteration  in  our  affeftion,  but  that  {he  wifhed. 
to  give  my  mind  that  repofe  which  1  might  derive 
from  iecurity.  This  I  would  by  no  means  accede 
to  :  and,  for  the  prefent,  we  contented  ouriclves 
v.iLh  mutual  vows  of  eternal  fidelity. 

t;  As  foon  as  I  thought  my  father's  mind  fit  for 
fuch  a  converfation,  I  opened  to  him  a  plan  1  had 
formed  of  coming  to  India,  to  advance  my  fonune. 
His  under  Handing  approved  of  it,  but  his  heart 
duTcnted:  and  he  faid.  that  to  part  with  me  would 
give  the  finifhing  ftroke  to  his  misfortunes  ;  but, 
as  my  interefl  was  tolerably  good,  I  teprefented  to 
him  the  great  likelihood  1  had  of  fuccefs  ;  and  at 
I  ail,  with  iome  difficulty,  he  confented. 

"  My  next  ilep   was  to  acquaint  Mifs  

with  my  refolution.  I  purpoiely  pafs  over  a  meet- 
ing which  no  power  of  language  can  defcribe  S  — 
then  how  can  I  ? — Oh  !  Campbell,  the  remem- 
brance of  it  gnaws  me  like  a  vulture  here,"  (and 
he  put  his  hand  upon  his  heart,  while  the  tears  rol- 
led down  his  cheeks),  '•  and  will  loon,  foon  bring 
me  to  my  end. 

"  Not  to  detain  you  with  vain  efforts  to  defcribe 
all  our  feelings,  I  will  confine  mylelf  to  telling  you 
that  after  having  made  every  neceflary  preparation, 
and  divided  wich  my  much  honoured  parents  the 
little  property  I  polIcfTed,  I  fet  fail  for  India,  in  a 
flue  of  mind  comoared  with  which  the  horrors  of 


REFUSE  TO  ENTER  INTO,  &c.      319 

annihilation  would  have  been  enviable  :  the  choas 
in  ray  thoughts  made  me  infenfible  to  every  objcft 
but   one ;  and   1    brooded    with    a   fort    of  flupid, 

gloomy  indulgence,  over  the  portrait  of  Mils , 

which  hung  round  my  neck,  and  was  my  infepcra- 
ble  companion,  till  the  people  who  feized  me  as  I 
came  afhore  plundered  me  of  it,  and  thereby  depri- 
ved me  of  the  hft  refuge  for  comlort  I  had  left. 
Oh  !  mongers  !  barbarians  !  had  you  glutted  your 
lavage  fury  by  difievering  my  limbs,  one  after  ano- 
ther, from  my  body,  it  would  have  been  mercy, 
compared  with  depriving  me  of  that  little  image 
of  her  I  love  !  But  it  is  all  over,  and  I  (hall  loon 
link  into  the  grave,  and  never  more  be  blefled 
with  the  view  of  tbofe  heavenly  features,  till  we 
meet  in  that  region  where  all  tears  are  wiped  away, 
and  where,  I  truft,  we  fhall  be  joined  together  for 
endlcfs  ages,  in  eternal,  never-lading  bliis  I" 


LETTER    L1I. 


o 


N  the  day  fucceeding  that  on  which 
the  agent  of  Hyat  Sahib  had  held  the  difcourfe 
with  me,  mentioned  in  my  lad  letter  but  one,  I 
was  again  fent  for,  and  brought  to  the  fame  perlon, 
who  afked  me,  whether  I  had  dulv  confidered  of 
the  important  ofler  made  me  by  Hyat  Saiiid, 
and  of  the  confequences  likely  to  refult  from  a 
refufal  ?  and  he  apprifed  me  at  the  fame  time,  that 
the  command  of  five  thoufand  men  was  an  honour* 
which  the  firft  Rajahs  in  the  Myforean  dominions 
w.ould  grafp  at  with  tranfport.  I  told  him  1  was 
well  convinced  of  the  honour  fuch  a  command 
would  confer  on  any  man  but  an  Englifhman, 
whole  country  being  the  objeft  of  Hvder's  incef- 


320  REFUSE  TO  ENTER  INTO 

fant  hofh'lity,  would  make  the  acceptance  of  it  in- 
famy— that  although  I  knew  there  were  but  too 
many  Englifhmen  apoftates  to  their  country,  I 
hoped  there  were  but  few  to  be  found  in  India 
willing  to  accept  of  any  emoluments,  however 
great,  or  any  temptations,  however  fpecious,  to 
fly  from  the  ftandaid  of  their  country,  and  rally 
round  that  of  its  bittereft  enemy—-that,  for  my 
own  part,  being  of  a  name  ever  foremoft  in  the 
ranks  of  loyalty  and  patriotifm,  and  of  a  family 
that  had  hitherto  detracted  nothing  frcm  the  ho- 
nours of  that  name,  fuch  an  «&  of  apoftacy  would 
be  peculiarly  infamous  in  me,  and  I  could  view  it 
in  no  better  light  than  traitorous  and  parricidal— - 
that,  independent  of  all  thofe  claims,  which  were 
of  themfelves  fufficient  to  deter  me,  I  felt  within 
myfelf  a  principle,  perhaps  innate,  perhaps  infpi- 
red  by  military  habit,  that  forbade  my  acceding--- 
and,  finally,  appealed  to  the  good  fenfe  of  Hyat 
Sahib,  whether  a  man  who  in  fuch  circumftances 
had. betrayed  his  country,  and  facrificed  her  inter- 
efts  to  his  own  convenience,  was  luch  a  perfon  as 
confidence  could  properly  be  put  in. 

Notwithstanding  theie,  and  a  thoufand  other  le- 
mon ftranceSj  which  I  cannot  immediately  recollect, 
but  which  the  hazards  of  my  frtuation  fuggefted,  he 
ftill  continued  to  prefs  me,  and  ufed  every  argu- 
ment, every  perfuafion,  that  ingenuity  could  dic- 
tate, or  hints  of  punifhment  enforce,  to  {hake  my 
purpofe — but  in  vain  :  attachment  to  country  and 
family  rofe  paramount  to  all  other  considerations ; 
and  I  gave  a  peremptory,   decifive  refufal. 

Circumftanced  as  I  was,  it  was  impoflible  for  me 
to  keep  an  accurate  journal  of  the  various  incidents 
that  paiTed,  or  viciiTitudcs  of  thought  that  occur- 
red, during  the  period  of  my  imprilbnment.  In- 
deed, I  was  fcarcely  confcious  of  the  length  of 
ray  captivity,  and  could  not,  till  I  was  relcafed^. 
rmine  exactly  how  long  it  had  continued.    You 


HYDER  ALLI'S  SERVICE:.  J21 

mud  therefore  content  yourfelf  to  be  told  in  gene- 
ral terms,  that  I  was  repeatedly  urged  on  the  fub- 
jeft  by  fair  perfuafi  ves  :  they  then  had  recourfe  to 
menace  ;  then  they  withheld  the  daily  pittance  al- 
lowed for  my  fupport  •,  and  at  length  proceeded  to 
coercion,  tying  a  rope  round  my  neck,  and  hoift- 
ing  me  up  to  a  tree.  All  this,  however,  1  bore 
firmly:  if  it  had  any  effe&,  it  was  to  confirm  me 
in  my  refolution,  and  call  in  policy  to  the  aid  of 
honour's  dictates.  Every  man  of  feeling  or  rea- 
fon  muft  allow,  that  it  was  better  to  die,  than 
live  a  life  of  (ubjectlon  to  tyranny  fo  truly  diabo- 
lical. 

Mr,  Hall  and  I,  thus  drove  to  the  brink  of  ex- 
tinction, yet  confoled  ourfclves  with  the  reflection, 
that  thofe  whom  mod  we  loved  were  not  (haring 
our  unhappy  fate,  and  were  fortunately  ignorant  of 
our  fufferings  ;  and  as  I  enjoyed  perfect  good  health,, 
hope  yet  lived  within  me. 

There  is  a  fpring,  an  elaflicity,  in  every  man's- 
mind,  of  which  the  owner  is  rarely,  very  rarely 
con  (clous,  becaufe  fortunately  the  occafions  ieldom 
occur  in  which  it  can  be  brought  to  the  proof,  for, 
as  laflitude  is  the  neceffary  forerunner  of  refrcfh- 
ment,  fo  is  extreme  dejection  to  the  moft  vigorous 
excreife  of  our  fortitude.  So  I  found  it  :  as  the 
horrors  of  my  fi  uation  thickened  round  me,  I  felt 
my  fpirits  increafe  j.  my  refolution  became  more 
fiim,  my  hopes  more  fanguine-— I  even  began  to 
look  forward,  and  form  projects  for  the  future  : 
whole  hours  amufement,  every  day  and  every  night,, 
arofe  from  the  contemplation  of  my  beloved  boy;. 
I  in  imagination  traced  his  growth,  directed  his 
rifing  ientiments,  formed  plans  for  his  future  fuc- 
ceis  and  profperity,  and  indulged  by  anticipation  in 
all  the  enjoyment  which  I  now  truft,  1  {hail  yet 
have  in  his  ripened  manhood. 

Thus    we    continued   for  miny  month?,   during 
which  do  alteration  whatfocver  took  place  in  our 


322  REFUSE  TO  ENTER  INTO 

treatment  or  fituation.  We  heard  a  thoufand  con- 
tiadsctory  reports  of  vi&ories  gained  over  the  Eng- 
liftr,  and  again  of  lome  iucceffes  on  their  part  : 
they,  however,  defifted  to  preis  me  into  their  (er- 
rice.  The  only  relief  from  our  fufff  rings  lay  in  the 
rciources  of  our  own  minds,  and  in  our  mutual  en- 
devours  lo  pleaie  and  confoleone  another  :  the  cir- 
rumft.uices  of  aggtavation  were  the  neceflity  of  dai- 
ly bearing  witnefstolhe  mod  barbarous  punifhments 
he  inflicted  upon  wretched  individuals  under  the 
iemblance  of  iultice,  and  the  occafional  depriva- 
tion of  our  food,  cither  by  the  fraud  of  the  lepoys 
v.  ho  attended  us,  or  the  caprice  or  cruelty  of  their 
iwperiors.  It  is  but  juflice,  however,  to  lay,  that 
they  were  not  all  alike  :  iome  ovei flowed  uith  mer- 
cy, charity,  and  the  milk  of  human  kindnefs  ; 
while  others,  again,  were  almoft  as  bad  men  as  the 
fovereigns  they  ierved.  We  were  not  allowed  the 
ufe  of  pen,  ink,  or  paper  j  and  very  feldom  could 
afford  ourlelves  the  luxury  of  fhaving,  or  clean  lin- 
en :  nor  were  we  at  all  fheltered  from  the  incle- 
mency of  the  weather,  till  at  length  a  little  room 
was  built  for  us  of  mud,  which  being  fmall  and 
damp,  rendered  our  filuation  vvorfe  than  it  was 
before. 

The  prifoner  whom  I  have  already  mentioned, 
as  having,  in  the  time  of  the  former  fovereign, 
held  the  fitft  office  in  Bidanore,  (till  continued  op- 
pofite  to  me  ;  and  he  and  I  at  length  began  lo  un- 
deiftand  each  other,  and  found  means,  by  looks, 
iigns  and  geftures,  to  exchange  thoughts,  and  hold 
an  intercourfe  of  fentiments  together.  From  the 
circumftance  of  his  being  a  native,  and  better  (kil- 
led in  the  language  than  me,  he  had  much  better 
intelligence  than  I  could  pofiibly  have,  and  he  was 
always  eager  to  convey  to  me  any  circumftance  or 
news  that  he  thought  might  be  agreeable  :  (omc 
meffjges  alio  patted  between  us,  by  means  of  the 
iepoys  who  had  alternately  been  his  guard  and  mine 
—for  our  guards  were  changed  every  week. 


HYDER  ALLI'S  SERVICE.  323 

Prc^je&s  and  hopes  of  a  new  kind  now  began  to 
intrude  them(elves  on  mv  thoughts  ;  and  I  con- 
ceived a  deiii>ri,  which  I  flattered  mylelf  was  not 
entirely  impracticable  to  effect  an  efcape,  and  even 
a  revolt  in  the  place.  A  variety  of  chcumftances 
concurred  to  perluade  me,  that  the  tyranny  of  Hy- 
de r,  and  his  fervant  Hyat  Sahib,  was  abhorred, 
though  none  dared  to  give  vent  to  their  (entimems. 
I  thought  I  could  oblerve,  that  the  native  prifoner 
oppofite  to  me  was  privately  beloved,  and  might, 
from  the  recollection  of  his  former  dignities,  have 
connderable  influence  in  the  place.  Several  Arcot 
fepoys  and  their  officers  (fome  of  them  belonging 
to  my  own  regiment)  were  alfo  prifoners  at  large  ; 
and  withal  I  recollected,  that  difficulties  apparent- 
ly more  flupendous  had  been  overcome  by  Englifh- 
men — having  often  heard  it  afferted,  that  there  was 
not  a  prifon  in  the  known  world  out  of  which  a 
Britifh  fubjecthad  not  made  his  efcape. 

Fraught  with  thofe  conceptions,  I  attempted  to 
found  the  officers  of  the  Arcot  Sepoys,  whether  it 
were  not  poflible  for  us  to  efTetf.  our  efcape  ?  So 
ardent  is  the  flame  of  liberty  in  all  men's  breads,  lo 
great  is  the  dcteftation  of  human  nature  to  fhvery, 
that  1  perceived  a  manifeft  willingneis  in  the  peo- 
ple about  us  to  join  me  in  an  attempt  to  procure  our 
liberty,  or  bring  about  a  revolt  in  the  garrilon. 
My  heart  beat  high  with  the  hope  ;  and  I  began  to 
flatter  mylelf,  that,  the  day  was  not  far  removed 
when  we  fhould  not  only  bid  defiance  to  our  ty- 
rants, but  even  make  them  repent  the  day  on 
which  we  were  caft  afhore  on  their  coaft. 

Having  thus  diftantly  founded  all  who  I  thought 
were  likely  to  concur,  upon  the  practicability  of 
the  attempt,  and  found  them,  as  I  conceived,  dif- 
pofed  to  take  fhare  in  it,  it  yet  remained  10  con- 
sider of  the  quomodo — and,  after  having  formed  the 
general  outlines  of  apian,  to  lick  it  into  fhape. 
The  firft  of  thefe  was  a  critical   confideration  :   the 


3U  LAID  IN  IRONS. 

fecond  required  addrefs  and  management,  and  was 
likely  to  be  impeded  by  the  vigilance  of  the  peo- 
ple about,  w1k>  would  not  fail  to  remark,  and  take 
the  alarm,  from  any  unufual  intercourfe  or  difcourfa 
between  us  ;  and  without  a  mutual  communication 
of  thoughts,  and  full  deliberation  by  all  parties  con- 
cerned, as  well  as  knowledge  of  the  fort  and  its 
different  gates,  nothing  could,  with  any  profpeft  of 
fuccefs,  be  determined—nothing,  without  the  moft 
imminent  hazard,  be  attempted.  I  therefore  held 
various  councils  with  my  own  mind,  and  with  Mr, 
Hall,  on  the  fubjeft—  moft  of  which  were  abor- 
tive, without  at  all  difcouraging  us. 

At  laft  I  began  to  think  of  founding  the  Bida-* 
nore  prifoner,  ci-devant  governor  of  the  place  ;  and 
determined,  if  poflible,  to  bring  him  into  our  con- 
sultations, as  I  had  before  hoped  to  make  him  a 
party  in  the  execution  of  the  project  :  but  while  I 
was  fettling  all  this  much  to  my  own  fatisfa&ion,  an 
event  occured  which  extinguifhed  all  my  hopes  in 
that  way — of  which  you  {hall  have  an  account  ia 
my  next  letter. 


LETTER     L1II, 


W; 


H ETHER  the  plan  which  I  men- 
tioned in  my  Lit  was  discovered  or  not,  or  from 
what  other  motive  it  arofe,  I  have  not  to  this  day 
been  able  to  decide.;  but  fo  it  was,  that  while  my 
i'auguine  mind  was  ovei  flowing  with  the  hope  of 
carrying  my  projeft  for  an  efcape  into  effect,  Mr. 
Hall  and  I  were  one  day  unexpectedly  loeced 
with  irons,  and  faflened  togeiher,  leg  by  leg,  by 
or.e  bolt.  This,  as  nearly  as  I  can  compute,  was 
four  or  five  months  before  my  releaic.     Of  all  lh« 


LAID  IN  IRONS.  325 

circumdances  of  my  life,  it  has  made  the  ftronged 
impredion  upon  my  mind  :  it  unexpectedly  and 
fuddenly  broke  down  the  rooft  pleafmg  fabric  my 
imagination  had  ever  built.  The  (urpriie  occafion- 
ed  by  the  appearance  of  the  ifons,  and  the  precau- 
tionary manner  in  which  it  was  undertaken,  was 
indeed  great  :  (till  more  was  I  furpri'ed  to  obferve, 
that  the  perfon  who  was  employed  to  iee  this  put 
in  execution,  manifeftedunulual  emotions,  feemed 
much  affefted,  and  even  fhed  tears  as  he  looked  on  : 
and  while  the  fuddenneis  and  cautionary  mode  of 
doing  it  convinced  me  that  lome  refidance  on  our 
part  was  apprehended,  the  forrow  which  the  offi- 
•cerwho  lupenntended  it  diiclofed,  portended  in 
my  mind  a  ratal,   or  at  lead  a  very  lerious  iiTue. 

Uofortanare.ly,  poor  Mr.  Hall  had  for  forae 
time  been  afRi&ed  with  a  return  of  his  dreadful  dif- 
oruer,  ihe  dyientery  ;  and  our  b«ing  fliackled  to- 
gether increafed  an  unconquerable  mortification  of 
feelings  which  we  had  before  undergone,  from  a 
delicacy  of  nature  that  would  have  done  honour  to 
the  mod  moded  virgin,  be  her  fenfibility  ever  fo 
exquifite,  or  her  delicacy  ever  io  extreme — And 
here,  mv  dear  Frederick!  I  cannot  let  flip  thi$ 
opportunity  of  remarking  to  you,  that  the  man,  as  . 
well  as  the  woman,  who  would  render  himielf  tru- 
ly amiable  in  the  eyes  of  his  fellow-creatures, 
fhould  cultivate  delicacy  and  modedy,  as  the  mod 
captivating  of  all  the  moral  viriues  :  from  them, 
heroiim  derives  additional  luftre — wit,  ten-fold 
force — religion  and  morality,  the  charms  of  perfua- 
fion — ana  every  perSonal  action  of  the  man,  irre- 
f: fable  drgnity  and  winning  grace.  From  this  un- 
lucky event,  1  received  a  temporary  depreflion  ; 
and  the  rapidly  increasing  illneis  of  poor  Ha  - 
rendered  my  fituatioh  more  than  ever  calamitous  ; 
v  tien,  "g->in,  my  fpirits,  eagerly  pioiie  to  graip  at 
every  duug  that  gave  a  momentary  hope  of  iupport, 
weic  a  little  recruited  by  confuted   rumours  of  the 

Ee 


326  LAID  IN  IRONS. 

Englifh  army  having  made  a  defcent  on  the  Mala- 
bar coaft  :  and  fo  powerful  is  the  influence  of  mind 
en  the  animal  fyftem,  that  Mr.  Hall  enjoyed  from 
the  report  a  momentary  alleviation  of  his  malady  ; 
but,  having  no  medical  affiftance,  nor  even  fufEci- 
ent  fuftenance  to  further  the  favourable  operations 
of  nature,  he  relapled  again  ;  the  difeale  fell  upon 
him  with  redoubled  fury  :  a  very  fcanty  portion  of 
boiled  rice,  with  a  more  fcanty  morlel  of  ftinking 
fait  fifh  or  putrid  flefh,  was  a  very  inadequate  lup- 
port  for  me,  who,  though  emaciated,  was  in  health 
— and  very  improper  medicine  for  a  perfon  labour- 
ing under  a  malady  fuch  as  Mr.  Hall's,  which  re- 
quired comfort,  good  medical  (kill,  and  delicate 
nutritious  food.  The  tea  which  Hyat  Sahib  had 
given  me  was  expended;  and  we  were  not  allow- 
ed to  be  fhaved  from  the  hour  we  were  put  in 
irons,  an  indulgence  of  th2t  kii  d  being  forbidden 
by  the  barbarous  rules  of  the  prifon  :  and,  to  refine 
upon  our  tortures  Deep,  "  the  balm  of  hurt  minds," 
Was  not  allowed  us  uninterrupted  ;  for,  in  confor- 
mity to  another  regulation,  we  were  difturbed  every 
half  hour  by  a  noiie  fomething  refembling  a  watch- 
man's rattle,  and  a  fellow  who,  flriking  every  part 
of  our  irons  with  a  kind  of  hammer,  and  examin- 
ing them  left  they  fhould  be  cut,  broke  in  upon 
that  kind  reftorative, .  and  awoke  our  iouls  to  freih 
horrors. 

As  it  mud  be  much  more  naturally  matter  of 
aftenilhment  that  any  bodily  ftrength  could  lupport 
itfelf  under  luch  complicated  calamities,  than  that 
infiimity  fhouid  fink  beneath  them,  you  will  be  ra- 
ther grieved  than  furprifed  to  hear  that  poor  Mr. 
Hall  was  now. approaching  to  his  end  with  hourly 
accelerated  fteps.  Every  application  that  I  made 
in  his  favour  was  refufed,  or  rather  treated  with 
cruel  neglect  and  contemptuous  filence  ;  and  I 
foreiaw,  with  inexpreilible  anguifh  and  indigna- 
tion, that  the  barbarians  would  not  abate  him  in  hi* 


LAID  IN  IRONS.  327 

lafb  minutes  one  jot  of  milery,  and  that  my  moil 
amiable  friend  was  fated  to  expire  under  every  at- 
tendant horror  that  meie  fublunary  circumftaneea 
could  create.  But  that  pity  which  the  mighty, 
the  powerful  and  enlightened  denied,  natural  be- 
nevolence operating  upon  an  uninformed  mind, 
and  fcar.ty  means,  afforded  us.  Hyat  Sahib,  the 
powerful,  the  wealthy,  the  governor  of  a  great 
opulent  province,  refufed  to  an  expiring  fellow- 
cieature  a  little  cheap  relief — while  a  poor  ieooy 
taxed  his  little  means  to  fupply  it  :  one  who  guard- 
ed us,  of  his  own  accord,  at  hazard  of  imminent 
fhmeM,  purched  us  a  lamp  and  a  liftle  oil, 
which  we  burned  for  the  lad  few  nights. 

Philofophers  and  divines  have  declaimed  upon 
the  advantages  of  a  well-fpent  life,  as  felt  in  arti- 
culo  mortis  ;  and  their  efforts  have  had,  I  hope, 
fome  effccl;  upon  the  lives  of  many.  To  witncfs 
one  example*  tuch  as  Mr.  Hall  held  forth,  would 
be  worih  volumes  of  precepts  on  this  fubjecl;.  The 
unfeigned  refignation  with  which  he  met  his  diffo- 
lution,  and  the  majeftic  fortitude  with  which  he 
looked  in  the  face  the  various  circumftances  of 
horror  that  furrounded  him,  rendered  him  the  mod 
dignified  object  1  ever  beheld  or  conceived,  and 
the  mod  glorious  inftance  of  confcious  virtue  tri- 
umphing over  the  terrors  of  death,  and  the  Gun- 
ning barbarity  of  mankind.  Were  the  progrels  of 
virtue  attended  with  pain,  and  the  practice  of  vice 
with  pleafure,  the  adoption  of  the  former  would 
be  amply  repaid  by  its  Toothings  in  the  dreadful 
moment,  even  if  it  were  to  accompany  us  no  fur- 
ther. About  a  quarter  of  an  hour  before  he  died, 
Mr.  Hall  broached  a  raoft  tender  fubjecl:  of  con- 
verlation,  which  he  followed  up  with  a  feries  of 
obfervations,  fo  truly  refined,  fo  exquifitely  turned, 
fa  delicate  and  fo  pathetic,  that  it  ieemed  almoft, 
the  language  of  inipiration,  as  if,  in  proportion  to 
the  decay  of  the  body,  intellect  increaled,  and  the 


328  LAID  IN  IRONS. 

dying  man   had   become  all  mind.      Such  a  conver- 
sation I  never  remembered  to  have  heard,   or  heard 
of.       Its    effects    upon   me    were    wonderful  ;    for, 
though  the  combination  of  melancholy  circumflan- 
Oes  attending   my  now   critical  fituation  had  almoft 
railed  my  mind  to  frenzv,   the  falutary  influence  of 
his    words  and  example  controuled  the  excefTes  of 
my   fen lations  ;  and  I  met  the  afflicting  moment  of 
his  departuie   with  a  degree   of  tranquility,   which, 
though    not    to  be  compared   to  his,   has  on  reflec- 
tion appeared   to   me   aftoniihing.      This  conven- 
tion   continued   to   the  very   inftant   of  his  death  ; 
during  Vhich  time  he  held  my  hand  clafped  in  his, 
frequently   enforcing    his  kind   expreflions  to   me 
with  a  fqueeze — while   my   forrpw,   taking  its  moft 
eafy  c.  nnel,  bedewed  my  face  with  tears.     As  he 
proceeded,   my  voice   was   choaked  with  my  feel- 
ings ;    and  I  attempted   once  or    twice   in    vain    to 
fpeak.      His   hand    grew    cold:   he    laid    his    lower 
Hmj  :  ail  lifeleis,   and  that  he  felt  death   com- 

ing over  him  with    flow   creeping    fteps — He  ag.in 
moralized,    thinking  God  with  parie;:c  fervout  for 
his  great   mercy   in   leaving  him   his   intellects  un- 
clouded,   and    the    organ    of    communication    (the 
tongue)    unenfeeblcd,   that,   to    the    Uft,   he    might 
isfiiend  and  fellow-fufferer — u  Ah  !  Camp- 
B£M  !"'   continued   he,   "  to  what  a  ienes  of  mi  fo- 
ri e;  am  I  row  leaving  you  1   death   in   fuch  circum- 
ftanczs    is  a   blcfhng — I    view  mine    as   iuch  ;    and 
fhould  think  it  more  io,  if  it  contributed,,  by  awak- 
ening  thole  people   to  a  fenfe   of  their   cruelty,   to 
foften  then  rigour  to  you  :   but   cruelty  like  theii's 
is  fy  Hematic,  ana  (loops  not  to  the  controul  of  the 
feelings.      Could  I  hope  that  you  would  yet  elcape 
from  their  clutches,   and  that  you  would  once  more 
prels  your  family  to  yourboiom,  the  thought  would 
brighten    (ilil   the  moment  of  our  feparation  :   and, 
oh  !   my  friend  !   could  1  ftill  further  hope  that  you 
would  oue  day  fee  icy  molt  beloved  and  honoured 


ACCOUNT  OF  HYDE&  ALLI.       329 

parents,  and  tell  them  of  my  death  without  wring- 
ing their  hearts  with  its  horrid  circumftances,  offer 
them  my  laft  duties,  and  tell  how  I  revered  them — 

If,   too,  you   could    Tee   my  ,  and   tell    her 

how    far,   far    more   dear    than !"    Here    he 

turned  his  eyes  toward  the  lamp,  then  faintly  on 
me — made  a  convulfive  effort  to  fqueeze  my  hand 
— cried  out,  "Campbell!  oh,  Campbell!  the 
lamp  is  going  out !"  and  expired  without  a  groan. 

The  recital  of  this  afflicting  event  has  called  up 
to  my  fancy  fo  lively  a  pi&ure  of  the  icene  as  it 
palTerl  with  all  its  horrors— horrors  which  outftrip 
all  efforts  of  defcription,  and  baffle  all  power  of 
language — that  my  feelings  are  in  part  renewed, 
and  I  find  myfelf  incapable  of  proceeding  further 
at  preient. 


LETTER    LIV. 


JL  OR  fome  time  I  was  loft  in  grief  for 
the  death  of  Mr.  Hall.  Thougxh  1  had  long  ex- 
pected it,  and  might  consequently  be  iuppoled  to 
have  wafted  great  part  of  my  forrow  in  anticipa- 
tion ;  yet,  having  only  confidered  and  felt  the 
point  before  his  death  merely  as  it  relpe&ed  him 
and  his  misfortunes,  a  great"  portion  of  the  calamity 
yet  remained  unconceived  :  and,  now  that  he  was 
dead,  I  began  for  the  fir  ft  time  to  confider  and"  feel 
the  fubjecl;  as  it  concerned  myfelf.  Reflection  told 
me,  that  he  was  happily  relieved  from  woe,  and  in 
a  ftate  of  bills — 

"  After  life's  fitful  fever,  he  deeps  well  ; 

«; Nor  fteel  nor  poifon, 

.  ,;  Malice  domeftic,  foreign  levy — nothing 

*«  Can  touch  him  further  1" 

E  e  2 


33°      ACCOUNT  OF  HYDER  ALU. 

But  I  ftill  remained  a  prey  to  perhaps  new  bar- 
barities, without  hope  of  relief  from  the  old.  No 
partner  to  fhare,  no  fecial  converie  to  alleviate,  no 
friend  to  coniole  me  under  my  afflictions,  I  looked 
at  the  body  of  my  friend  with  envy,  and  lamented 
that  death  had  not  afforded  me,  too,  a  ihelter  from 
the  cruelties  which  fate  feemed  determined  to  heap 
upon  me. 

It  is  impofiible  for  me  to  exprefs  to  you  the  ago- 
nies of  mind   I  underwent    during    the  reft  of  the 
night.      In    the   morning    a  report  was  made  to  the 
commandant,    of  the  death  of  Mr.    Hall  ;     and  in 
about  an  hour  after,   he  pafTed    me  by,     but  kept  his 
face  purpofely  turned  away    from    me  to   the   other 
fide.      I    patiently   waited    for  the    removal   of  the 
dead  body  till  the  evening,   when  I  defired    the  Se- 
poys who  guarded  me  to  apply  for  its  being  remov- 
ed.     They  returned,   and    told  me  that    they  could 
getnoanfwer   refpeefcing  it.      Night  came   on,    but 
there  was  no  appearance  of  an  intention  to  unfetter 
me  from  the  corpie.     The  commandant  was  fitting 
in  his  court,     adminiftering,  in  the   manner  I  have 
before  defcribed,  jujlicc  !   I  called  out  to  him  myieif 
with  all  my  might,     but   could  get   no  anfwer  from 
him.      Nothing  could  equal  my  rage  and  conilerna- 
tion  ;     for,     exclufive  of  the   painful    idea  of  being 
fhackied  to  the  dead  body  of  a  friend  I  loved,    an- 
other cucumitance   contributed  to  make  it  a  ferious 
icbjecl:  of  horror.      In  thofe  ciimates  the   weather  is 
fo  imeuiely  hot,   that  putrefa&ion    almoft   inftantly 
fucceeds  death,   and  meat  that  is  killed  in  the  morn- 
ing and  kept  in  the  fhade,     will  be  unfit  for  dref- 
fi.ig  at  night.      In   a    fubjeft,     then,   on  which  pu- 
trefaction   had   made  advances    even    before  death, 
and   which  remained  expofed  to  the    open   air,   the 
pToceis   muft  have  been  much  more  rapid.      So  far, 
ever,   frora    compafliqnating    my    lituaiion,     or 
ne  by  a  removal  of  the  body,   their  ba; 
i   to  them  to  make   it  an  inftru;: 


ACCOUNT  OF  HYDER  ALU.      3$  I 

punifhment  ;  and  they  pertinacioufly  adhered  to 
the  molt  mortifying  nlence  and  difregard  of  my 
complaints.  For  feveral  days  and  nights  it  remain- 
ed attached  to  me  by  the  irons.  I  grew  almoft  de- 
tracted— wifhed  for  the  means  of  patting  an  end  to 
my  miferies  by  death,  and  could  not  move  without 
witnefling  fome  new  (tageof  putrefcense  it  attained, 
or  breathe  without  inhaling  the  putrid  effluvia  that 
arofe  from  it — while  myriads  of  flies  and  ioathlome 
infects  felted  on  it,  the  former  of  which  every  now 
and  then  viii'.ed  me,  crawling  over  my  face  and 
hands,  and  lighting  in  hundreds  on  my  victuals. 
I  never,  look  back  at  this  crifis  without  confuiion, 
horror,  and  even  ailonifnment  ;  and,  were  it  not 
connected  with  a  chain  of  events  preceding  and  fub- 
fequent  to  it,  too  well  known  by  refpeclible  peo- 
ple to  be  doubted,  and  too  much  interwoven  with 
a  part  ol  the  hi  (lory  of  the  lad  war  in  India  to  ad- 
mit of  a  doubt,  I  mould  not  only  be  afraid  to  tell, 
but  abloluieiy  doubt  mylelf  whether  the  whole  was 
not  the  iilufion  of  a  dream,  rather  than  credit  the 
pofiibility  of  my  enduring  (uch  unheard  of  hard- 
fhips  without  lofs  of  life  or  deprivation  of  lenfes. 

At  la  ft,  when  the  body  had  reached  that  (hock- 
ing Ioathlome  ftate  of  putrefaction  which  threaten- 
ed that  further  delay  would  render  removal  abomi- 
nable, if  not  impoflible,  the  mon iters  agreed  to 
take  it  away  from  me — and  1  was  io  far  relieved  ; 
but  the  mortification  and  injury  I  underwent  from 
it,  joined  to  the  agitation  of  the  preceding  week, 
made  a  vifible  inroad  on  my  health.  I  totally  loft 
my  fpIrStS  ;  my  appetite  entirely  forfook  me  :  my 
long-nouriihed  hopes  fled  ;  and  i  looked  forward 
to  death  as  the  only  dciira  nt  that'was  within 

the  verge  of  likelihood  or  pofliouity. 
•    One  day,  my  oppotite  friend  (the  native  prHoner) 
ie   a  look  of  the  moll  latere  (ting  and  enc 
kind  ;    and  I  perceived  a    more  than  ul 

tie    ia  the  citadel,    while  ths  iepoys  ijafoiiii»i 


33-      ACCOUNT  OF  HYDER  ALU. 

me  that  they  were  ordered  on  immediate  fervice, 
and  that  fome  events  of  great  importance  had  taken 
place.  From  this  feeble  gleam,  my  mind,  natu- 
rally aftive.  though  depreffed  by  circumftances  of 
unufual  weight,  again  took  fire,  and  hope  bright- 
ened with  a  kind  of  gloomy  light  the  prof  peel:  be- 
fore me  :  I  revolved  a  thoufand  things,  and  drew 
from  them  a  thoufand  iurmifes  ;  but  ail  as  yet  was 
only  conjecture  with  me.  In  a  day  or  two,  the 
buftle  increaied  to  a  high  pitch,  accompanied  with 
marks  of  confternation  :  the  whole  of  the  troops 
in  the  citadel  were  ordered  to  march  ;  and*the 
corsmandant,  and  a  man  with  a  hammar  and  inflru- 
ments,  came  to  take  off  my  irons. 

While  they  were  at  work  taking  off  my  irons,  I 
perceived  they  were  taking  off  thofe  of  the  native 
prifoner  oppofite  to  me  alfo.  He  went  away  under 
a  guard  :  we  looked  at  each  other  complacentlv, 
nodded  and  fmlled,  ar>  who  mould  lav.  M  we  hope 
to  lee  one  another  in  happier  times  not  far  diitar.t." 
But,  alas  I  vain'  are  human  hoDes,  and  fho;t  and 
dark  is  the  extent  of  our  ufmoli  forefight  !  This 
unhappy  man,  without  committing  any  fort  of  of- 
fenfe  to  merit  it,  but  in  conformity  to  the  damna- 
ble, barbarous  polfly  of  thofe  countries,  was,  by 
the  Jemadar's  orders,  taken  forth,  and  his  throat 
cut  !  This  the  Jemadar  himfelf  afterwards  acknow- 
ledged to  me — and,  what  was  (till  more  abominable 
if  po (Tib ley  undertook  to  juftify  the  proceeding 
upon  the  principles  of  reafon,  found  fenle,  and, 
precedent  of  Afiatic  policy. 

In  order  to  elucidate  the  whole  of  this  bufinefs, 
it  is  neceiTary  for  me  to  recur  to  events  which  hap- 
pened antecedent  to  this  time,  but  of  which,  by 
reafon  of  my  fituation,  I  was  then  entirely  igno- 
rant •,  and  as  they  involve,  not  only  the  grounds 
of  my  fubfequent  eicape  and  pioceedingi,  but  a 
conhderable  portion  of  hiflorical  facl,  ana  lorr.e  of 
the  cutciiai  imerefts  of  the  Eaft  India   Company, 


EAST  INDIAN  POLITICS.         333 

I  will  be  the  more  particularly  careful  in  relating 
them,  and  denre  from  you  a  proportionate  {hare 
of  attention — But  their  importance  entitle  them  to 
a  feparate  letter  :  therefore  conclude  with  alluring 
you,  &c.  &c. 


LETTER    LV, 


H 


-YDER  ALLI  KHAWN,  late  Nabob 
of  My  fore,  and  father  to  the  prelent  Tippo  Sahib 
Sultain,  was  as  extraordinary  a  man,  and  perhaps 
poffeffed  as  greit  natural  talents,  as  any  recorded  in 
the  p«ge  of  hiftory.  Born  and  bred  up  in  the  low- 
eft  ranks  of  an  unenlightened  and  ignorant  people, 
and  to  the  laft  day  of  his  life  perfectly  illiterate,  he 
not  only  emerged  from  his  native  obfeurity  by  the 
vigor  pf  his  mind  and  bodv,  but  became  an  object 
of  terror  and  admiration  to  iurrounding  potentates. 
E-irly  initiated  in  the  habits  and  inured  to  the  toils 
of  a  military  life,  he  role,  by  the  gradual  fteps  of 
promotion, 'to  a  rank  which  afforded  an  opportunity 
of  displaying  his  capacity  and  prowets  :  he  foon 
obtained  the  command  of  that  army  in  which  he 
had  once  i'erved  as  a  common  foldier,  and  immedi- 
ately demonittated  that  the  fublirnity  of  his  mind 
was  formed  ,  to  keep  pace  with  his  extraordinary 
elevation. 

The  Marhattas,  the  moft  formidable  people  in 
Hither  India,  bordered  on  the  My  fores  n  domin- 
ions, and  kept  their  neighbours,  by  frequent  hof- 
tilities,  in  a  continual  ftate  of  awe — making  incur- 
fions  on  their  territories,  and  taking  pofTedion,  by 
force  of  arms,  of  large  portions  of  their  country  : 
but  no  fooner  had  Hyoer  got  the  command  of- the 
armies  of  his  country,  than  he  drove  back  the  Mar- 

4 


534         EAST  INDIAN  POLITICS. 
i 

hattas  from  the  Mvforean  dominions,  which  he  ex- 
tended by  confiderable  acquifuions  from  the  Mar- 
ietta frontiers  ;  and  followed  up  his  conqj^fts  with 
fuch  fuccefsful  ardour,  that  he  compelled  that  war- 
like nation  to  refpett  his  countrymen  as  their  equals, 
if  not  luperiors,  in  military  achievement.  Thus, 
while  he  ingratiated  himfelf  with  his  lovereign  and 
fellow-citizens  by  his  wildom,  he  acquired  the  ad- 
miration of  the  foldiery  by  his  perfonal  addrefs  and 
valour  ;  and  at  the  fame  time,  by  the  fevctity  of 
his  decipline,  and  the  occalional  aufterity  of  his 
deportmet,  maintained  an  awe  over  them,  which 
ftrer.gthened  his  authority  with  diminifhing  their 
lift  ction. 

Hyder  was  therefore  now  arrived  at  that  point 
of  elevation,  beyond  which  no  exertion  of  mental 
capacity,  if  governed  by  virtue  or  integrity,  could 
faiie  him — So  far  he  owed  all  to  guenius  :  but  his 
towering  ambition  looked  higher  ;  and,  ur.reftrain. 
ed  by  any  principle  of  religion  or  morality,  he  de- 
termined to  accomplifh,  at  anv  rate,  that  which  he 
knew  nothing  but  crime  could  accomplifh.  With 
wicked  delineation  he  looked  forward  into  the 
womb  of  time,  and  with  unparalleled  policy  arran- 
ged the*  whole  fyftera  upon  which  he  was  to  act, 
wVen  that  order  of  things  his  penetrating  and  in- 
tuitive genius  enabled  him  to  lee  would  naturally 
ariie  from  each  other,  fhould  afford  him  a  proper 
opportunity.  Although  he  was  utterly  ignorant  of 
books,  and  of  courfe  could  derive  little  benefit 
»*•  from  the  examples  of  the  great  and  ambitious  men 
recorded  in  hiftory,  yet,  drawing  upon  the  infinite 
refources  of  his  own  mind  for  information,  he 
adopted  the  very  lame  means  of  furthering  his 
views  ;  and  foiefeeing,  that,  with  an  immenie  ar- 
my devoted  to  his  interefts,  few  things  would  be 
unattainable,  he  applied  himfelf  diligently  to  model 
and  form  that  of  the  King  of  Mysore  to  the 
£i'eateft   perfection    in  diicipline,  and   to  render  it 


EAST  INDIAN  POLITICS.         335 

attached  to  his  perfon,  and  fubfervient  to  his  views, 
by  a  (kilful  mixture  of  feverity  and  relaxation,  toil 
and  reward,  danger  and  applaule,  which  none  but 
a  mafter-hand  like  his  was  capable  of  exactly  com- 
pounding. 

The  death  of  his  fovereign  the  King  of  My- 
sore at  length  afforded  him  the  opportunity  to 
which  he  had  lo  long,  and  with  fo  prophetic  an  eye, 
looked  forward — and  gave  him  ample  room  for 
felf  %gratulation  on  the  {core  of  his  lagacity  and 
prudence. 

The  heir  in  fucceflion  to  the  throne  being  then 
an  infant,  the  politic  Hyder,  fetting  afide  all 
claims  of  the  kindred  of  the  young  prince,  took 
upon  himfelf  the  guardianfhip — under  the  title  of 
Regent  a  (Turned  the  iupreme  authority — and,  though 
too  well  aware  of  the  inviolable  attachment  of  the 
people  to  their  lawful  monarch  to  put  him  directly 
to  death,  uiurped  the  throne,  and  configned  him 
to  impriionment  in  Seringapatam,  the  capital  of 
the  Myiorean  dominions. 

Having  thus,  by  his  talents,  acquired  the  poflef- 
fion  of  the  throne,  he  gave  a  large  range  to  the  lub- 
limity  of  his  views,  and  loon  difplayedthe  exhauft- 
leis  relources  of  his  mind  in  the  new  office  of  Go- 
vernor and  Legiflator — forming  fuch  vaft  well-or- 
dered military  eftabliihments,  and  fuch  judicious 
and  falutary  civil  inftitutions,  as  made  him  blaze 
forth  at  once  the  terror  of  his  neighbours,  and  ren- 
dered him,  in  the  fequel,  the  moll  powerful  and 
formidable  potentate  in  the  Hither  Peninfula.  la 
carrying  on  thofe,  his  deficiency  in  letters  was  fup- 
plied  by  his  vigilance  and  lagacity,  fharpened  by 
fufpicioti  :  three  fecretanes  executed  a^l  iris  orders 
in  feparate  apartments  :  and  if,  on  companion, 
they  were  found  to  differ,  he  who  committed  the 
error  received  fentence  of  death.  His  natural  cru- 
elty made  him  take  the  execution  of  Uheir  fentence 
upon  himielf  not   unfrequeatly  :  to    nice   off    a 


$$6         EAST  INDIAN  POLITICS. 

head  with  his   own  hand,  or  fee  it  done  by  ethers, 
I     a     luxurious     recreation     to    the     ianguinary 
Hyder. 

The  natural  fagacity  of  this  great  man  fuggefted, 
that  in  order  to  accompli fh  the  extenfive  objects 
which  his  acV've  and  ambitious  temper  held  up  to 
his  imagination,  the  introdu&ion  of  the  moft  per- 
fect military  ditcipline  was  above  all  other  things 
neceiTny  ;  and  his  judgment  informed  him  that  the 
European  was  the  beft.  Heiherefore  held  oat  the 
mod  tempting  allurements  to  military  adventures, 
and  pai ticularly  lo  thoie,  whether  black  or  white, 
o  had  been  trained  in  the  iervice  of  the  Englifh 
Eaft  India  company  :  he  fent  ennflaries,  for  the 
purpoie.  to  all  parts  of  India,  with  inftru&ions  to 
ofler  great  rewards  ;  and  cartied  this  defign  lo  far, 
that  whenever  accident  or  war  threw  perionsof  that 
.  tion  into  his  hands,  he  never  failed  to  detain 
them,  and,  if  they  refuied  to  enter  info  I  ce, 

treat  t;  i  the  moft    unpardonable   rigour  and 

barbarity  *.   and  bv  thele  means  biought  hs   army  to 
ale  of    perfection  till    then  unknown  to  a  black 
power.      He  d'd  not  (top  there,   but  determined  to 
eflablifh  a  .  -by  large  offers  allured  many  fhip- 

carpenfers  and  artizans  fiom  Bombay — made  no  in- 
con'liderab]  ris    in    conltru&ing    dock-yai 

and  had  aftuaily  equiped  iome  frrps  of  the  line, 
befideb  frigates,  fitted  to  encounei  L,  lopean  leas. 
Indeed,  he  feemea  to  have  carried  his  views  of  con- 
queft  even  to  the  Polar  regions  :  for  it  is  a  faft, 
that  he  dire£tea  his  people,  in  conftru&ing  thofe 
veffels,   to  fit  them  foi  :ering  leas  of  ice,   or, 

as  he  called  it,   the  I 

To  a  man  of  inch  ardent  ambition  and  deep  pene-, 
tration,   the  vaft  power  which  the  Englifh  sL.  ft  In- 
dia company  had  acquired,   and   were  daily  acq1 
ing,   in  the  Eaft,   could  not  fail    to  be  a; 
jeaioulv.      He    cue         n    a  deadly  and   i  jie 

anixnofity  to  the  Briuin  Nation,  which   influenced 


EAST  INDIAN  POLITICS.         337 

iiis  whole  fucceeding  life,  ended  only  with  his 
death,  and  was  then  tranfmitted  to  his  (on  Tip  poo 
Sahib,  with  the  exa&ion  of  a  folemn  oath,  ever 
to  retain  thole  fentiments. 

A  coincidence  of  circumftances,  which  has  fet- 
dom  occured  in  the  fortunes  of  men,  tended,  at  a 
lucky  crifis,  to  further  the  bold  projects  of  Hyder  ; 
and  neither  fortune,  though  extremely  propitious 
to  him,  nor  his  own  unbounded  talents  and  ener- 
getic (pirit,  favoured  the  execution  of  them,  more 
than  the  bungling  politics,  the  ludicrous  ambition, 
and  the  confequent  unjuftifiable  proceedings,  of  one 
of  our  Presidencies  in  India — I  mean  Bombay. 
Fortunately,  the  v/ifdom  and  moderation  of  our 
Eaft  India  councils  at  this  day,  vindicate  the 
wounded  character  of  the  Britifh  nation,  and  jufli- 
fy  me  in  the  remarks  I  make. 

An  ambitious  and  profligate  chief  of  the  Marhat- 
ta  Tribes — his  name  Raganaut  Row — -had  been 
deputed  by  the  wile  men  of  his  country,  for  having 
murdered  his  nephew,  in  order  to  uTurp  the  throne 
of  Setterah.  He  fled  to  Bombay,  and,  by  fpecious 
promiies  and  othei  means,  prevailed  on  that  Piefi* 
dencv  to  afford  nim  an  afyium,  and  finally  to  take 
up  arms  in  his  defence  againlt  the  united  Marhatta 
States,  who  at  the  very  time  were  able  to  raiie  an 
army  of  three  hundred  thoufand  fighting  men, 
HoltiUiies  were  firft  commenced  by  the  Englifh  ; 
and  by  them  peace  was  firft  propoled.  The  treaty 
of  Poonah  was  made,  by  which  it  was  provided 
that  Raganaut  Row  would  quit  Bombay  ;  and 
fey  the  Englilh  the  provifions  ol  that  tieaty  were 
broken — for.  in  direct  violation  of  it  Raganaut 
was  kept  at  Bombav.  This  breacn  of  the  treaty 
led  to  another  ;  for  this  crafty  and  unprincipled 
chief  made  utc  of  it  wiih  luch  addrels  as  to  per- 
iuadc  that  Prehdency  to  attack  the  Marhaltas  ag  in  : 
—by  magnifying  the  power  of  his  party  among  hi* 
euuntiyraen,  he   prevailed   upon   tntm  once  moie 

¥  i 


338         EAST  INDIAN  POLITICS. 

to  affert  his  rights  ;  and  the  Prendency  of  Calcutta, 
I  am  afraid,  were  induced  to  join  that  of  Bombay 
in  the  plan. 

It  happened  unfortunately,  that  at  this  time  the 
Prefiaency  of  Bombay  was  compofed  of  perions  the 
molt  unqual  fied  ,  probably,  that  could  be  found  in 
any  community  for  offices  of  fuch  importance. 
One,  particularly,  was  allowed,  by  the  almoft  una- 
nimous conlrnt  of  thofe  who  knew  his  private  or 
public  char2&-r,  to  be  ignorant,  not  only  of  the 
firfl  principles  of  government,  but  of  the  ordinary 
knowledge  requifite  for  a  gentleman  ;  and  for  fuua- 
tions  of  moment  he  was  peculiarly  difqualified  by 
a  fondnefs  for  minutiae,  to  which  he  paid  more  at- 
tention than  to  matters  of  greater  confequence.  A 
temper  and  intellect  of  this  kind  were  rendered 
ftill  more  incapable  of  the  enlarged  views  any 
Reprefentative  of  a  great  Nation  in  a  aidant  colo- 
ny fhould  poflefs,  by  a  mercantile  education  and 
habits,  which  narrowed  even  his  circumfcribed 
mind,  and  left  .him  not  a  fentiment,  not  an  idea, 
that  was  not  merely  commercial.  The  adminifua- 
tion  of  fuch  men  was  exactly  what  might  have  been 
expected  ;  and,  inftead  of  aflerting  the  dignity  of 
Great  Britain,  or  promoting  the  advantage  of  their 
employers — narrow  policv,  felhfh  views,  and  ef- 
forts arifing  from  miftaken  notions  of  cor.queft, 
made  the  whole  tiffue  of  their  conduft  in  India. 

Blinded  by  the  plauhbie  infinuations  of  Raga- 
naut,  and  ftimulaied,  as  I  have  already  oblerved, 
by  a  luft  foi  conquer!,  which  would  have  been  un- 
juftifiable  even  in  an  hereditary  defpot,  but  which 
were  peculiarly  vicious  and  ridiculous  in  a  body  of 
merchants  who  were  themielves  fubjefts,  the  Eaft 
Indu  company's  iervants  again  determined  to  iup- 
port,  by  force  of  arms,  that  moft  atrocious  mur- 
deur;  and  with  the  contemptibly  inadequate  force 
of  four  thouiand  men,  encumbered  with  an  un- 
wielay    train   of    baggage  and   iervants  for  the  ac- 


EAST  INDIAN  POLITICS.  339 

commodation  of  finikin  voluptuous  officers,  and 
led  by  two  doughty  compting-houie  champions 
(Carnac  and  Mostyn),  with  colonel  Egertom 
as  military  ajfijlant  rather  than  commander,  they 
fet  out,  to  encounter  the  whole  torrent  of  the  Mar- 
hatta  force,  and  conduct  Ragan.-mjt  to  Poonah. 

Had  Raganaut  advanced  at  the  head  of  his 
own  partizans  only,  the  chiefs  of  the  Marhatta 
Nation  might  poiTibly  have  taken  different  fides  of 
the  queftion,  and  left  between  them  a  breach  for 
his  arms  or  intrigues  to  make  an  entrance  fatal  to 
the  general  cauls  of  the  country  :  but  the  aflaults 
of  a  foreign  army — an  army  of  interefted  peculat- 
ing (hangers,  as  the  company's  troops  then  were — 
an  army  of  avowed  natural  enemies,  profelnng  a 
different  religion,  entertaining  different  political 
principles,  and  formed  by  c  nature  of  a  different 
complexion — roufed  and  united  them  in  one  com- 
mon caufe,  and  cempreffed  difcordant  interefts, 
which  had  been  for  time  immemorial  at  irreconcila- 
ble variance,  into  one  compact  body  of  refiftance, 
which,  as  it  became  more  firm  from  the  ffrokes  of 
hoflility,  could  not,  in  the  nature  of  things,  be 
fubdued  ;  in  the  fame  manner  as  the  unjuftifiable 
confederacy  of  kings  againff  France  lately  united 
all  the  conflicting  parties  of  that  country — con- 
verted twenty-feven  millions  of  people,  male  and 
female,  into  one  compaft  armed  force — rendered 
them  not  only  invincible  at  home,  but  terrible 
abroad — and  finally,  has  enabled  them  to  beflride, 
CololTus  like,  the  univerfe. 


34©  AUTHOR  DELIVERED 


LETTER     LVI. 


X 


HE  approach  of  the  BritiHi  troops  with 
Raganaut  ciuied  great  alarm  2t  Poonah  ;  and  the 
minifters  there  lent  to  offer  terms,  wh-ch  were  con- 
temptuoufly  rejected.  They  then  determined  to 
lave,  by  prowels,  thole  lights  which  they  could 
not  pielerve  by  juftice  or  negociation — and  tock. 
the  field  with  fuch  great  force,  that  their  menacing 
enemies  found  it  expedient  to  conlider  of  a  retreat. 
The  faithful  Raganaut,  finding  his  plans  baffled, 
fent  privately  ?o  Sc  india  h,  the  M?rhatta  chief, 
ptopofing  to  him  to  attack  the  Englifh,  and  pro- 
mi  (ing  in  that  cafe  to  join  him  with  his  part  of  the 
army  :  his  perfidy,  however,  being  diicovered,  the 
Englifh  commanders  began  to  retreat,  carrying  hirn 
along  with  them.  They  were,  however,  fur- 
rounded,  and  reduced  to  make  the  mod  abject  con- 
eeflions — offering  a  carte-blanchc  to  Scindiah  as 
the  pr.ee  of  a  retreat  :  but  that  auguft  chief  nobly 
tiifdained  to  take  advantage  of  their  Situation,  and 
contented  himielf  with  terms  which  juftice  fhould 
haveexiCted  from  them,  even  if  necefiiiy  had  not 
compelled  their  acceptance.  The  reiioration  of 
S.iiieite.  and  of  the  other  conquefts  m;;de  by  the 
company's  troops  during  the  preceding  hokihtie^, 
and  the  deliveiv  of  Raganaut's  peiion  into  the 
hands  of  the  Marhattas,  vveie  among  the  provihons. 
Raganaut  was  delivered  up  :  two  hothges  were 
taken  tor  the  remaining  part  of  the  tieaty  ;  and 
the  hanalied  remains  of  the  Englifh  army  weie  per- 
muted to  return  to  Bombay. 

Raganaut  having  found  means  to  efcape,  reach- 
ed Sural  j  and  toe  company's  chiefs  rei'ui'ed  to  copa- 


FROxM  HIS  GUARDS.  341 

ply  with  the  provifions  of  the  treaty:  notwith- 
ftanding  which,  the  noble  Marhatta  d  if  mi  fled  the 
hoftages,  and  prepared  for  a  more  manly  revenge 
than  that  which  could  be  wreaked  on  two  defence- 
lels  individuals.  General  Goddart,  who  had 
been  Tent  with  an  army  from  Bengal,  was  commif- 
fioned  to  negociate  for  a  pacification  :  but  Scin- 
diah  making  the  delivery  of  Raganaut  into  his 
hands  an  indifpenfable  preliminary,  the  negociation 
was  broken  off,  and  bo'.h  parties  determined  to  re- 
fer the  controverfy  to  the  decifion  of  the  fword. 

Every  thing  feemed  to  confpire  to  chaftife  the 
rafhnefs  and  folly  of  our  Indian  councils.  The 
difficulties  in  which  our  American  conteft  had  in- 
volved the  nation,  were  reported  with  exaggera- 
tion in  India,  and  gave  additional  firmnefs  to  our 
enemies  in  that  quarter.  The  refflefs  and  intrigu- 
ing fpirit  of  the  court  of  Versailles  found  its  way 
with  Monfieur  St.  Lubin  to  the  fhores  of  Indof- 
tan,  and  fo  powerfully  worked  upon  the  mind  of 
Hyder,  that  he  entered  into  a  treaty  with  France 
againft  England,  and  brought  the  flrength  of  both 
into  the  mod  formidable  combination  that  ever  was 
made  in  that  country,  to  root  out  the  power  of 
Great  Britain  from  the  Eaft. 

Thus,  by  the  depraved  politics  of  the  councils 
of  a  petty  fettlement,  were  the  important  interefls 
of  Great  Briiain  in  India,  and  the  lives  and  pro- 
perties of  all  its  fervants  in  that  quarter,  at  once 
expofed  to  the  fury  of  three  formidable  hoftile 
powers — the  Marhattas,  Hyder  and  the  French. 

I  will  not  entangle  my  narrative  with  a  detail  of 
the  various  military  operations  which  arofe  from 
this  confederacy  :  they  were  in  general  difalirous 
to  the  Engiiih,  whofe  power  there  was  preferved 
from  utter  annihilation  by  the  energetic  councils 
of  Mr.  Hastings,  the  unexampled  courage  of 
our  troops,  and  the  unparalleled  abilities  and  gal- 
lantry of  the  veteran    Sir  Eyr&   Coote,     That 

F  f  a 


342  AUTHOR  DELIVERED 

part  which  applies  to  my  prefent  narrative,  is  the 
o.ily  part  I  think  it  neceffary  to  detail  ;  but  I  wifh 
you  to  inform  yourlelf  of  all  of  them  fully,  by 
an  attentive  peruial  of  the  different  hiflories  of 
that  war. 

In  order  to  relieve  the  Carnatic.   which  was  Puf- 
fer ing   under  the  ravages  of  a  formidable  victorious 
army,   who  had  not  only  cut  off  a  great  Dart  of  our 
forces  on  that  coaft,  but   affronted   our  army   even 
at  the  walls  of  Fort  St.  George,   defcents  upon  the 
coafls   of  Malabar  were   pbnned,   in  order  to  make 
a  diverfion  :   and   General   Mathews,   in    January 
17&3,    landed    with   a  (mall    army   under    his   com- 
mand, at  a  place  called  Rajamondroog — took  Onore, 
and  leveral  forts:   and  being  joined  by  other  troops* 
which,  under  the  command  of  Colonel  Humeert- 
son,  had  done  confiderable   iervice    to    the    iouth- 
ward,  and  were  now  commanded  by  Colonel  Mac- 
Leod,  matched    from    Cundapore,   with    an    army 
conii fling  of  twelve  hundred  Europeans  and  eight 
battalions  of  Sepoys,   towards  Huffaingurry  Ghaut? 
a    pafs    (hat    leads    over   thefe    immenie   mountains- 
which    divide    the    peninfula,   running    north    and 
fouth    from    Peifia   to   Cape    Comorin.     After  fur- 
mounting   obflacles   that   would   have  difcouraged  a» 
lels  enterprifing  commander,   and  for  which  I  refer 
you    to    his    owu    letter,    inclofed    herewith,*    he 
mounted  the   Ghaut,  carrying  every   thing   before 
him   with   the   fixed   bayonet;  and  reached  within 
a  Ihort    march    of  Hydernagur,   the    place    where  I 
was  confined.     Thole  operations  were  undoubtedly 
much    facilitated    by    the   death   of  Hyder    Alli, 
which  happened  while  I  was  in  prilon,  and  which 
drew  the  atention  of  Tippoa  Sahib   to  affairs  of 
more  immediate  importance  than  the  defence  of  the 
Malabar  forts. 

I  have  thus   digreffsd    from    the    flraight   path  of 
my  narrative,  in  order   to  explain  to  yea  the  occa. 
*  See  Appendix. 


FROM  HIS  GUARDS.  343 

&on  of  the  extraordinary  revolution  that  fo  fud~ 
denly  took  place  in  the  fort,  which  I  Hated  to  you 
in  my  la  ft  letter  but  one — You  will  therefore  look 
back  to  the  con^clufion  of  that  letter,  from  whence 
I  again  take  up  my  narrative, 

I  was  utterly  at  a  lols  to  conjecture  what  this  fo 
fudden  relolution  to  releafe  me  and  my  oppofite 
fellow-prifoner  meant.  I  endeavoured  to  get  lome 
explanation  of  it  from  the  perfons  about  me  ;  but 
all  I  could  at  the  time  colletr.  was,  that  the  Jema- 
dar had  directed  me  to-  be  taken  out  of  irons,  and 
ordered  me  to  appear  before-him.  I  walked  out 
of  the  citadel  with  two  or  three  men  who  had  got 
charge  of  me  ::  it  was  a  delightful  afternoon  ;  and 
my  lenfations  on  once  more  vituing  the  open  air — • 
at  again  viewing  the  vaft  expanle  of  the  firmament 
above,  and  the  profufion  of  beauties  with  which" 
nature  embellifhed  the  earth  beneath — were  too 
blifsful,  too  (ublime  for  deicrip.ion.  "My  heart 
beat  with  involuntary  tranfpoits  of  >>ratituue  to  that 
Being  from  which  all  fprung  ;  and  I  felt  ihat  man 
is,  in  his  nature,  even  witnout  the  intervention 
of  his  reaion,  a  being  of  devotion.  For  an  hour 
of  luch  delight  as  I  then  experienced,  a  year  of 
impriionment  was,  I  thought,  hardly  too  dear  a 
price.  Thole  exquifite  ienlations  inlenfibly  led 
my  heart  to  the  moll  flattering  prelages  ;  the  ani- 
mal {pirit  appeared  to  have,  in  correiponuence 
with  the  bodv,  lhaken  off  a  load  of  chains  ;  and 
as  I  walked  along,   I  leemed  to  tiead  on  air. 

As  we  proceeded  forward,  we  found,  at  fome 
diflance  from  the  fort,  an  open  douly,  into  which 
the  guaids  forcibly  crammed  me  ;  and  I  was  carried 
off,  hull  attended  by  ihe  iame  men.  As  we  went 
along,  they  gave'me  to  under/land  that  Hyat  Sa- 
hib, the  Jemadar,  was  at  a  place  ten  or  a  dozen 
miles  diftant  irom  Bidanore.  1  thought  it  within 
mylelf  a  mod  extraordinary  circumitance,  and  was 
*t  a  lofs  to  conjecture  ior  what  purpofe  he  required 


344        AUTHOR  DELIVERED,  &c. 

my  prefence  there.  Perhaps,  thought  I,  it  is  to 
deliver  me  perlonally  into  the  hands  of  Tippoo — 
perhaps  to  fend  me  to  Seringapatam.  Sufpence 
whetted  my  curiofitv  ;  and  impatience  to  know  my 
fate,  let  my  mind  afloat  upon  a  wide  fea  of  conjec- 
ture. Still,  however,  my  fenles  acknowledged  a 
degree  of  pleafure  indefcribable — I  inhaled  the 
frefh  air  with  greedinefs,  and,  as  I  fnuffed  it  in, 
laid  to  myfelf,  "  Well,  well — at  the  word,  this 
will  enliven  my  fpirits,  and  lay  up  a  new  ftock  of 
health  and  vigour,  to  enable  me  to  endure  with 
manhood  whatever  other  fufferings  the  barbarians, 
into  whofe  hands  I  have  fallen,  may  have  in  ftore 
for  me." 

When  we  had  got  about  a  mile  from  the  fort, 
we  met  a  perlon  attended  by  three  others,  all  on 
horieback.  He  was  a  man  of  considerable  rank  in 
that  country,  and  I  recolle&ed  to  have  feen  him  at 
the  jemadar's  Duibar,  where  he  had  manifefted>i 
favourable  difpolition  towards  me,  looking  always 
gracioufly,  and  nodding  to  me,  which,  considering 
my  circumftances  and  his,  was  not  a  little  extsaor- 
dinary.  The  moment  he  recognized  me,  he  leaped 
fronvhis  horfe,  apparently  in  great  agitation  :  then 
turning  to  the  guards,  ordered  them  to  leave  me 
immediately — faying  at  the  l3me  time  that  he  would 
be  anfwerable  for  the  confequences.  They  ieemed 
at  fir  ft  to  hefitate  whether  they  would  obey  him 
or  not  ;  but  on  his  fhaking  at  them  his  fword, 
which  was  all  along  drawn  in  his  hand,  and  fmear- 
cd  with  blood,  and  repeating  his"  orders  a  fecond 
time  in  a  fina  and  decisive  tone  of  voice  and  man- 
ner, they  all  ran  off. 

As  foon  as  we  were  alone,  he  revealed  to  me, 
that  he  had  all  along  known  who  I  was — had  moft 
heartily  pitied  my  iufferings,  and  privately  enter- 
tained the  moft  anxious  wifhes  to  ferve  me,  but 
could  not  venture  to  interfere — the  ie^ft  jealoufy, 
when  ©nee  awakened,  being  there  always  followed 


RETURNS  TO  THE  FORT.         345 

up  by  fummary  vengeance.  He  then  mentioned 
his  name,  informing  me  th  athe  was  the  fon  of  a  Na- 
bob near  Vel'.ore,  whole  dominions  had  been  wrefl- 
ed  from  him  by  force,  and  united  to  the  Carnatic  ; 
that  his  family  had  received  great  favours  from  my 
father,  in  return  for  which  he  felt  himielf  bound 
to  do  me  every  fervice  in  his  power  ;  but  that,  hav- 
ing been,  after  the  misfortunes  which  befel  his  fa- 
mily, taken  into  the  fervice  of  Hyder,  and  hold- 
ing then  a  place  of  consequence  under  him,  he  was 
dilqualified  from  demonstrating  his  giatitude  and 
efteem  in  the  way  he  wifhed  ;  he  added,  he  had 
jufl  come  from  the  fummit  of  the  Ghauts,  where 
he  left  the  Englifh  army  potted,  aftei  their  having 
beat  the  Circar  troops,  and  carried  all  the  (Irong 
works  which  had  been  erefted  for  the  defence  of 
the  paiTes,  and  were  deemed  from  their  fi  uaiion 
impregnable  ;  that  the  Jemadar,  Hyat  Sahib, 
had  gone  there  to  encourage  the  troops,  and  ani- 
mate them  to  one  grand  effort  of  reliance,  and 
would  remain  there  till  the  lucceeding  day — Here 
he  flopped,  and  leemed  much  agitated  ;  but  recov- 
ering himielf  loon,  laid,  in  a  lolemn  and  alarming 
manner,  ;*  Tnis  day  I  heard  Hyat  Sahib  give  or- 
ders to  bring  you  before  him,  in  orarr  that  he 
might  fatia.e  his  revenge  by  your  death  !  How 
happv  am  I  in  having  an  opportunity  to  relcue  you  • 
I  will  carry  you  back  with  me,  theiefore,  to  Biaa- 
nore,  and  place  you  in  a  itate  of  iecuruy  with  my 
family." 


LETTER    LVii. 


S 


rJCH   unprecedented    generofity    affeft- 
sd  me  iefeiibly,     To   run    luch  a  hazard  as  he  muit 


34$ 


RETURNS  TO  THE  FORT. 


have  incurred,  merely  from  a  principle  of  gratitude 
for  fervices  io  remote  in  both  time  and  peilon,  wai 
more  than  we  could  hope  to  find  even  among  En- 
glishmen, who  boafl  of  their  iuperior  juftice  and 
gcnercfity — but  in  a  native  of  Indoftan,  where  the 
tide  of  human  feeling  runs  rather  low,  was  afto- 
mfning.  As  well  as  my  limitted  knowledge  of  the 
lmguage  of  the  country  embied  me,  I  endeavoured 
Io  make  him  a  fuiuble  acknowledgement  :  in  inch 
a  caufe,  dulinefs  mud  have  become  eloquent  :  and  I 
lamented  that  my  deficiency  in  the  language  pre- 
vented my  giving  vent  to  the  extreme  fullnels  of 
my  heart.  lie  ieemed,  however,  to  be  fausfied  with 
my  meaning  ;  and  i  was  juft  on  the  point  of  re- 
turning with  him  to  Hyaernagur,  when  we  weie 
luddenly  fianled  by  the  Jemadar's  munc,  which 
was  loon  afterwards  fucceeded  by  the  appearance 
of  his  guards  advancing  towards  us  at  lome  diU 
tance.  He  feemed  confounded  and  alarmed — la- 
mented, in  warm  terms,  his  incapacity  to  ferve  me 
—and,  pointed  to  a  path  which  wound  through  a 
wood  that  lay  on  either  fide  of  the  road,  directed 
me  to  (Irike  into  it  immediately,  faying,  that  by 
following  that  route,  I  fhould  certainly  fall  in  with 
the  Btitifh  army.  He  then  rode  away,  and  I  fol- 
lowed his  advice,  and  proceeded  for  fome  time 
through  the  wood  without  interruption  ;  for, 
though  I  did  not  implicitly  believe  the  affertion 
that  Hyat  Sahib  meant  to  have  cut  me  off,  I 
oeemedit  prudent  io  avail  myfelf  of  the  opportuni- 
ty which  offered  to  effect  my  efcape,  apprehending 
a  worfe  fate  than  death,  namely,  being  lent  pr. loner 
to   Seringapatam. 

Finding  mylelf  fairly  extricated,  I  began  to  exa- 
mine my  fituaiion,  and  to  reflect  on  the  different 
converiations  which  had  palled  between  Hyat  Sa- 
hib and  me,  and  on  his  conduct  previous  io  my 
being  put  in  irons.  I  recollected  the  information 
1  had   from  time  to  time    received,  touching   the 


RETURNS  TO  THE  FORT.         347 

Jemadar's  diipodtion,  Hyder's  dexch,  Tippoo 
Sahib's  charter  and  avowed  hatred  of  Hyat, 
and  the  nature  of  the  inhabitants.  I  moreover 
took  into  confederation,  that  m>  firtuigth  was  im- 
paired, and  my  conftitution  undermined  ;  and  that 
my  profpects  in  India,  in  point  of  fame  or  emolu- 
ment, could  only  be  p-omot.d  by  fome  extraordi- 
nary exertion,  or  lome  hazardous  entei  ;.riie.  The 
refult  of  the  whole  was  a  detei  mination  on  my  part 
to  return  back  to  the  fort,  and  venture  an  attempt 
to  periuade  the  Jemadar  to  offer  propofals  for  an 
accomodation  to  General  Mathews,  and  to  make 
me  the  inftrument  of  his  negociation. 

In  pursuance  of  this  determination,  I  returned  ; 
and  about  fix  o'clock  in  the  evening  re-entered  the 
fort,  and  proceeded  to  the  palace  of  the  Jemadar, 
where,  deft  ing  an  audience,  I  was  admitted.  At 
the  very  fir  ft  fight  of  him,  I  could  perceive  in  his 
appearance  all  the  mortification  of  falling  power. 
He  received  me  with  a  gloomv  countenance,  in 
which  there  was  more  of  thoughtful  fadnefs  than 
of  vindictive  fury.  After  a  minute's  filence,  how- 
ever, he  (aid  to  me,  "  Well,  Sir  !  you  have  heard, 
I  fuppofe,  that  the  Englifh  army  are  in  poiTeflion 
of  the  Ghauts,  and  doubtlefs  know  that  the  cuf- 
toms  of  this  country  authorife  my  proceeding  againft 
you  with  the  utmoft  rigor."  Here  he  pauled  for  a 
few  moments — then  proceeded  thus  ;  "  Neverthe- 
lefs,  in  confideration  of  your  family — in  confede- 
ration of  the  regard  I  have  for  a  long  time  conceiv- 
ed for  you.  from  obfervir.g  your  condu£f,  and  ftri£l 
adherence  to  truth  in  aniwering  all  my  queftions, 
and  itill  moie  on  account  of  the  fuffering  which 
you  have  luftained  with  fortitude,  1  will  allow  you 
to  eicape  :  hafte  you,  then,  away — fly  from  this 
fort  dire&iy — Begone  !"  Then  waving  his  hand 
as  a  fignai  tor  me  to  depart,  averted  his  face  from 
me,  ana  looked  another  way. 


348 


RETURNS  TO  THE  FORT. 


I  thought  that  this  was  a  very  favourable  oppor- 
tunity for  my  intended  purpofe,  and  entreated  him 
to  hear  me  while  1  laid  a  few  words  of  perhaps 
more  moment  to  him  than  to  mvfeif.  He  again 
turned  towards  me  ;  and,  nodding  anient,  while 
his  eye  belpoke  impatient  curiohty,  I  proceeded — 
And,  fir  ft,  1  exprefled  in  the  ftrongfil  terms  I  was 
able,  the  high  lenfe  I  entertained  of  the  favourable 
reception  I  met  with  when  I  firft  came  to  the  fori  ; 
alluring  him,  that  I  fhould  never  forget  the;  kind- 
nefs  he  fhewed  me  on  that  occahon,  and  that  in  my 
conscience  1  imputed  all  the  fufreiings  I  had  un- 
dergone wholly  to  orders  which  he  had  been  oblig- 
ed to  execute,  and  not  to  any  want  of  humanity  in 
himfelf.  Here  I.  perceived  the  clouds  which  had 
overlpread  his  countenance  begin  gradually  to  dif- 
pe-rfe,  and  with  the  greater  confidence  proceeded 
to  fay,  that  if  he  would  condefcend  to  give  me  a 
patient  hearing,  and  not  take  my  boldnels  amifs,  I 
would  venture  to  intrude  upon  him  with  my  ad- 
vice. At  this  he  flared  at  me  with  a  look  of  fur- 
pnie — paufed — then  faid.  that  he.  authonled  me  to 
ipeak  wha^evct  I  plealed — continuing,  in  a  tone  of 
gentle  melancholy,  t;  But  of  what  ufe  can  your 
advice  be  to  me  nov\'?" 

Having  thus  obtained  his  permKTion,  I  began  by 
complimenting  him  on  his  great  talents  and  temper 
in  govern irg — on    his  fidelity,   z  .it'achment 

to  Hvder — and  on  the  mild  and  benehcient  u'.e 
which  he  v.as  acknowledged  to  have  made  of  the 
unbounded  power  veiled  in  him  by  thaf  g: eat  Prince, 
which  was  the  more  extraordinary,  cc  nlidering  how 
trany  examples  he  had  to  jufhfy  him  in  a  contiaiy 
practice.  I  reminded  him,  howcvrr,  that  circum- 
ilances  were  at  pielent  widely  diffeicnt  from  what 
they  were — that  he  had  now  got  a  very  different 
Sovereign  to  ferve— that  he  had  no  longer  the  ten- 
der father  (for  lb  Hyder  might  have  been  confi- 
dered  to  him),  but   Tip  poo    Sultan,    now    the 


RETURNS  TO  THE  FORT.         349 

Mailer,  once  the  rival,  whofe  meafures  he  had  al- 
ways oppofed,  againfl  whom  he  had  once  laid  a 
mofk  ierous  charge,  and  who,  confidcring  the 
firmnels  of  his  nature,  coiild  not  be  realonably  iup- 
poied  to  have  forgiven  him  ;  and  1  hinted,  that 
whatever  external  appearance  of  regard  Tippoo 
might  from  the  political  neceffity  of  the  moment 
aflame,  his  temper,  and  the  ipirit  of  Afiatic  policy, 
were  too  well  known  to  have  a  doubt  remaining, 
that  10  far  from  continuing  him  (Hyat)  in  the  fame 
power  and  authority  which  he  enjoyed  during  the 
life  of  his  father  Hyder,  he  would,  on  the  con- 
trary,  proceed  againft  him  with  rigor  and  cruelty. 

Here  I  perceived  (he  Jemadar  involuntary  nod- 
ding his  head  in  a  manner  which,  though  not  in- 
tended foi  my  obie-.  vation,  denoted  internal  aflent  ; 
and  was  convinced  that  I  had  exacily  fallen  in  with 
the  current  of  his  own  thoughts.  No  wonder, 
indeed,  they  fhould  be  his  fentiments  ;  for  they 
had  long  been  the  fentiments  of  ail  perfons  who 
had  known  the  circumftances  of  the  Nabob's  fa- 
mily. 

Hiving,  therefore,  gone  as  far  on  that  point  as  I 
conceived  to  be  ncceflary  to  awaken  the  mind  of 
Hyat  to  the  precanoufnefs,  or  rather  danger  of  his 
filuation  with  Tippoo,  I  painted  to  him,  in  the 
ftiongefl  colours  I  was  nutter  of,  the  humanity, 
the  fidelity,  the  bravery  and  generofity  of  the  £n- 
glifh,  which,  1  faid,  were  (o  univerfaliy  acknow- 
ledged, thai  even  their  word  enemies  bore  tefli- 
mony  to  them.:  and  I  allured  him,  that  if,  in  (lead 
of  miking  an  unavailing  oppofuion  to  them,  he 
would  throw  himfelf  with  confidence  upon  their 
proucton,  and  become  their  friend,  he  would  not 
only  be  continued  in  his  flat  ion,  power  and  autho- 
rity, and  lupported  as  heretofore,  but  be  made  a 
much  greater  man,  with  flill  greater  iecuritVf  thaa 
ever  he  had  been  before. 

©1 


£5A         RETURNS  TO  THE  FORT. 

This  was  the  genera!  fcope  of  my  argument  with 
him  ;  but  there  were  many  more  which  fuggefted 
themfelves  at  the  time,  though  I  cannot  now  re- 
member them.  I  enforced  them  with  al!  the  pow- 
er I  had  :  they  were  fupported  by  the  acknow- 
ledged character  for  generofity  of  the  Englifh,  and 
ilili  more  by  Hyat's  apprehenfions  of  Tippoo  ; 
and  they  had  their  effect.  That  very  night  he  au- 
thoriied  me  to  go  to  the  Britifh  General  ;  and, 
though  he  would  not  commit  himfelf  by  fending 
propofals  in  writing,  he  confented  to  receive  them 
from  the  General,  and  pron.iled  to  wait  for  my  re- 
turn till  day-light  the  next  morning — adding,  that 
if  I  did  not  appear  by  that  time,  be  would  go  off 
with  his  family  and  uealure  to  fome  other  place, 
and  fet  the  town,  powder-magazine  and  ftore-hou- 
fes  on  fire,  leaving  a  per  ion  of  diftingnifhed  cha- 
racter to  defend  the  citadel  or  inner  fort,  which 
was  firong,  with  a  cieep  diich,  and  mounted  with 
many  pieces  of  cannon,  and  lend  immedia  e  intel- 
ligence to  an  army  of  fix  thouiar.d  hoife  and  ten 
thouiand  infantry,  who  were  at  that  time  on  their 
road  from  Seringapatam,  to  haflen  their  progrefs, 
and  m-dke  them  advance  with  ali  pofiible  rapidity  ; 
and  he  further  ohferved,  that  as  Tippoo  himieif 
would  come  to  the  immediate  protection  of  his 
country,  and,  if  once  come  while  the  Englifh  ar- 
my remained  in  the  open  field,  would  give  them 
cauie  to  repent  their  temerity,  there  was  no  time 
to  be  loft. 

Accompanied  by  a  perfon  who  had  officiated  as 
interpreter  between  the  Jemadar  and  me,  and 
whole  good  offices  and  influence  with  Hyat, 
which  was  very  great,  I  had  been  previoufly  lucky 
enough  to  fecure,  I  fet  off  at  ten  o'clock  at  night, 
on  horieback  to  the  Britifn  army.  My  companion 
was  in  high  fpirits  when  we  firft  fet  out  from  the 
fort  ;  but  as  we  proceeded,  he  exprefied  great  ap- 
piehenfion  of  being  (hot  in  approaching  the  camp, 


GENERAL  MATHEWS',  &c.        3J  t 

ind  earneftly  entreated  me  to  ftccp  at  a  c'-»oreltry» 
which  lay  in  our  way,  till  morning.  His  ten  of 
mult  have  been  great  indeed,  to  induce  him  to 
make  iuch  a  propoftl,  as  he  knew  very  well  that 
we  had  pledged  ourfelvcs  to  be  back  before  dawn 
next  day.  I  rallied  hi:n  upon  his  fears,  and  en- 
deavoured to  perluade  him  there  was  not  the  fmdl- 
ett  danger,  as  I  knew  how  to  anlwer  the  out  polls, 
•when  they  ihould  challenge  us,  in  luch  a  manner 
a>  to  prevent  their  Bring.  As  we  advanced  to 
the  cani'j,  however,  his  trepidation  increaled  ;  and 
when  we  approached  the  leotriea,  I  was  obliged  to 
dreg  him  along  by  force.  Then  his  fears  had  very 
nearly  produced  the  danger  he  dreaded,  (ihe  aimqfV 
invariable  effeft  of  cowardice)  ;  for  the  lentry  next 
to  us,  hearing  the  ruftling  noife,  let  off  his  piece, 
and  was  retreating  when  I  had  the  good  fortune  to 
make  him  hear  me.  My  companion,  alarmed  at 
the  noife  of  the  mufcjuet,  fell  down  in  a  paroxyfm 
of  terror,  from  which  it  was  feme  time  before  he 
was  completely  recovered.  The  lentry  who  had 
fired,  coming  up,  conducted  us  to  a  place  wher§ 
ether  (entries  were  ported,  one  of  whom  accompa- 
nied us  to  a  guard,  from  whence  we  were  brought 
to  the  grand  guard,  and  by  them  coaducbd  to  the 
General, 


LETTER    LVIII. 


I 


WAS  no  lefs  pleafed  than  furprifed  to 
find,  that  the  commander  of  this  gallant  and  fuc- 
celbful  little  army  was  General  Mathews — an  old 
fnend  of  my  father's,  and  a  perfon  with  whom  I 
had  ferved  in  the  cavalry  loon  after  I  entered  the 
fervice.     When  I  arrived  he   was  faft  ailcep   upon 


352  GENERAL  MATHEWS' 

the  bare  ground  in  a  choreltrv.  His  dubafh.  whi 
name  was  Snake,  recollected  me  immediately,  and 
was  almofl  as  much  frightened  at  my  appearance  ft 
fnft,  as  my  interpreter  companion  was  at  the  fhot 
of  the  (entry  ;  for  it  was  full  five  months  fince  my 
hair  and  beard  were  both  fhaved  at  the  fame  time, 
during  which  period  a  comb  had  never  touched  my 
head  :  I  had  no  hat — no  flocking? — was  ciad  in  a 
pair  of  very  ragged  breeches,  a  fhut  which  was  fo 
lull  of  holes  that  it  refembled  rather  a  net  than  a 
web  of  cloth,  and  a  waiftcoat  which  had  been  made 
for  a  man  twice  my  fize — while  my  feet  were  de- 
fended from  the  flones  only  by  a  pair  of  Indian 
flippers.  Snare,  as  foon  as  he  was  able  to  con* 
quer  his  terror,  and  flop  thft  loquacious  efTufions  of 
iftonifhment,  brought  me  to  the  General,  whom  I 
found  fad  afleep.  We  awoke  him  with  great  dif- 
ficulty, and,  on  his  difcovqring  me.  expreifed  great 
pleafure  and  furprife  at  fo  unexpected  a  meeting; 
for,  though  he  had  heard  of  my  imprifonment  at 
Bidanore,  he  did  not  expect  to  have  had  the  plea- 
lure  of  my  company  i'o  loon. 

Having  ftated  to  the  General  the  naHirc  and  ob- 
ject of  my  million,  and  related  to  him  what  had 
happened  in  the  fort,  he  inflantly  faw  the  great 
advantages  that  mufl  accrue  fiom  iuch  an  arrange- 
ment— entered  into  a  full  bu*.  fhort  difcuffion  of 
the  bufinefs — fettled  with  ms  the  plan  to  be  pur- 
fued  in  either  ca(e  of  IIyat  Sahib's  acced'rng  to 
or  d ideating  from  the  terms  he  propofed  to  offer  ; 
and  in  lefs  than  an  hour  after  my  arrival,  I  was  dif- 
patched  b.ick  to  tne  fort  in  the  General's  palan- 
quin, with  a  cowl  from  him,  fignifying  that  the 
Jemadar  Hyat  Sahib's  power  and  influence 
fhould  not  be  lelfened,  if  he  fhould  quietly  fur- 
render  up  the  fort.  Before  my  departure,  the 
Geneial  expreiled,  in  the  warmeil  terms,  his  ap- 
probation of  mv  conduct;  and  added  tha'  confi< 
ing  the  importance    of  the  fort,  the   cxieuiive  in-- 


VINDICATION.  SS3 

ftuance  of  Hyat  Sahib,  and  the  advantages  that 
might  be  derived  from  his  experience  and  abilities, 
coupled  with  the  enfeebled  {late  of  .his  army,  the 
benefits  of  fuch  a  negociation  fcarcely  admitted  of 
calculation. 

Not  with  (landing   the  very  flattering  circumflan- 
ces  with  which  my  preient  purluit  was  attended,    I 
could  not  help,  as  I  returned  to  Hydernagur,   find- 
ing lorne  uneaiy  ieniations,  arifing  from   the  imme- 
diate   nature   of  the    bufinefs,   and  from  my  know- 
ledge  of  the    faithlefs   difpofition  of  Afiatics,  and 
the  little  difficulty  they  find  in  violating  any  moral 
principle,  if  it  happens  to  clalh  with  their  intereft, 
or  if  a  breach  of  it  promiies  any  advantage.      I  con- 
sidered that  it  was  by  no  means  impoflible,  that  fome 
refolution   adverfe   to   my    project  might  have  been 
adopted    in    my    ablence,  and    that    the    Jemadar's 
policy   might   lead   him   to   make    my  deilrutlion  a 
fort  of  propitiation  for  his  former  offences,  and  to 
fend  me  and  the  cowl  together  to   Tippoo,   to  b«a 
iucrificed    to   his    relentment.     Thefe    thoughts,   I 
own,  made  a  very  deep  imprefiion   on   my  mind- 
but  were  again  effaced  by  the  reflection,  that  a  laud- 
able mealure,   once   begun,   ought   to  be  oerfevered 
in,   and  that  the  accompli lhing  a   plan  of  fuch  im- 
portance   and    incalculable    public     utility,     might 
operate    dill  fuither  by  example,   and  produce  con- 
lequences  of  which  it   was  impoflible  at  pre'ent  to 
form  a  conception.      Thole,   and   a  variety  of  fuch 
luggetlions,     entirely    overcame    the    icruples    and 
fears   of  the   danger  ;   and  I  ouce  more  entered  the 
fort    of    Hydernagur.       At    this    lime    the    Britifh 
troops    were,   by    detaching   a    part    with    Colonel 
Macleod,   to  get  round  the  fort,   and   attack  it  in 
the    rear,   and,   by   death    and    iicknefs,   reduced  to 
lefs   than    four  hundred  Europeans  and  fovea  hun- 
dred Sepoys,   without  ordnance. 

W  Ken  I  delivered  the  cowl  to  the   Jemadar,   he 
read    it,  and   ieemed  pleated,  but  talked  of  lour  or 

G  g  2 


354  GENERAL  MATHEWS* 

five  days  to  confider  of  an  »nfwer,  and  Teemed  to 
be  wavering  in  his  mind,  and  labouring  under  the 
alternate  impulfes  ef  oppofitc  motives  and  contra- 
dictory paflioRS.  I  faw  that  it  was  a  crifis  of  more 
importance  than  any  other  of  my  life — a  crifis  in 
which  delay,  irrefolution,  or  yielding  to  the  pro- 
tractive  expedients  of  Hyat,  might  be  fatal.  To 
prevent,  therefore,  the  effects  of  cither  treachery 
or  repentance,  I  took,  advantage  of  the  general 
confufion  and  trepidation  which  prevailed  in  the 
fort — collected  the  Arcot  Sepoys,  who,  to  the 
number  of  four  hundred,  were  prifoners  at  large— 
polled  them  at  the  gates,  powder-magazines,  and 
other  critical  fituations  ;  and,  having  taken  thefe 
and  other  precautions,  went  out  to  the  General, 
who.  according  to  the  plan  conceried  between  us, 
had  pufhed  on  with  the  advanced  guara  ;  and,  con- 
ducting him  into  the  fort  with  hardly  an  attendant, 
brought  him  itraight  to  the  Jemadar's  prclencc 
while  he  vet  remained  in  a  ftate  of  indecifion  and 
terror.  General  Mathews,  in  his  fii  ft  interview 
with  the  Jemadar,  did  every  thing  to  re-afhire  him, 
and  confirmed  with  the  mod  iolemn  affeverations 
the  terms  of  the  cowl  ;  in  con'.cquence  of  which 
the  latter  acceded  to  the  proportions  conta;ned  in 
it,  and  the  Bntifh  colours  for  the  full  time  waved 
upon  the  walls  of  the  chief  foit  of  the  country  of 
Jiidanore. 

Having  thus  contributed  to  put  this  important 
garrifon,  with  all  its  treafures,  which  certainly 
were  immense,  into  the  hands  of  the  Company, 
without  the  lofs  of  a  fingle  man,  or  even  the  ilrik- 
ing  of  a  fingle  blow,  my  exultation  was  incon- 
ceivable ;  anj,  much  though  I  wanted  money,  I 
can  will)  truth  aver,  that  avarice  had  not  even  for 
an  inftant  the  lead  fhare  in  my  fen  fat  ions.  *  Tis 
true,  the  cor.  ciou!ncis  of  my  fer  vices  allured  me 
of  a  reward  ;    but   haw    that    reward    was  to  accrue 

me,*  never  once   Was   the  fubj?£t  of  xny  content? 


VINDICATION.  2>SS 

plation — much  lefs  did  I  think  of  availing  myfelf 
of  the  inftant  occafion  to  obtain  it.  How  far  my 
deiicacy  on  the  occafion  may  be  cenfured  or  appro- 
ved, I  cannot  tell  ;  but  if  I  got  nothing  by  it,  I 
have  at  lcaft  the  confolation  to  reflet  that  I  el«apcd 
calumny,  which  was  with  a  mod  unjuftifrable  and 
unfparing  hand  lavifhedon  others.  The  Geneial, 
it  is  true,  promifed  that  I  mould  remain  with  h".ru 
till  he  made  fome  arrangements  ;  and  Hyat  Sa- 
hib offered,  on  his  part,  to  make  me,  through 
the  General,  a  handfome  prefenr.  The  General, 
however,  fuddenly  became  diffutisned  with  me  \ 
and  I  neither  got  Hyat  Sahib's  prelent,  nor  ever 
received  even  a  rupee  of  tne  van:  fpoil  found- 
tliere. 

Here  I  think  it  a  duty  incumbent  on  me  to  fay 
fomething  of  General  Mathews,  and,  while  I  de- 
plore the  unfortunate  turn  in  his  temper,  which* 
iniured  me,  and  tarnifhed  in  tome  mealure  his  good 
qualities,  to  refcue  him  from  that  unremitted  oblo- 
quy which  the  ignoran:,  the  interefted  and  the  en- 
vious have  thrown  upon  his  fame.  Light  iie  the 
afhes  of  the  dead,  and  hallowed  be  the  turf  that 
pillows  the  head  of  a  ioldier.!  General  Mathews 
was  indeed  a  loldier— was  calumniated  too  ;  and 
although  he  did'  not  uie  me  as  1  had  reafen  to  hope 
he  would,  I  will,  as  far  as  I  can,  relcue  his  fame 
from  grois  mifreprefeutation. 

An  extravagant  love  of  fame  was  the  ruling 
paiTion  cf  General  Mathews  :  it  was  the  great 
end  of  all  his  purluits  ;  and  while,  in  his  military 
profeiTion,  he  walked  with  a  firm  pace  towards  it, 
he  loft  his  time,  diftoited  his  piogre:S,  and  palfied 
his  own  efforts,  by  a  jealous  vigilance  and  envious 
opposition  of  thoie  whom  he  found  taking  the  iame 
road,  whether  they  walked  bclide  him,  or  panted 
in  feeble  effort  behind.  This  was  his  fault  ;  it 
was  doubtiefs  a  great  alloy  »to  his  good  qualities  : 
but  it  has  been  pumihed  with  rigour  diiprouortion- 


356       GENERAL  MATHEWS',  &c. 

ate  lo  the  offence.  Thofe  who  perfon?Hy  felt  his. 
joalouly,  look  advantage  of  his  melancholy  end  to 
traduce  hitn,  and  magnify  every  mole-hill  of  error 
into  a  mountain  of  enme.  It  is  unmanly  in  anv 
one — indeed  it  is — H.Q  traduce  the  foldter  who  has 
fallen  in  the  lervice  of  his  country  ;  but  it  is  heie- 
fy  in  a  ioldier  to  do  lo.  No  fooner  did  the  buzs 
of  calumny  get  abroad,  than  thoufands  of  hornets, 
who  had  neuher  in  te  re  ft  nor  concern  in  the  affair, 
joined  in  it.  The  malignant,  who  wifhed  to  ffeitftg 
meiely  to  get  rid  of  lo  much  of  their  venom— and 
the  vain,  who  wifhed  to  acquire  a  reputation  for 
knowledge  of  Afialic  affairs  at  the  exoence  of  truth 
— united  together,  and  railed  a  hum  winch  reach- 
ed Europe,  where  the  hornets  (I  mean  authors), 
under  the  lefs  unjutlsriable  impuife  of  neceffny, 
took  it  up,  and  buzzed  through  the  medium  of 
quartos  and  octavos  lo  loud,  that  public  opinion  was 
poiioned  ;  and  the  gallant  Ioldier  who,  for  the  ad- 
vantage of  England,  llood  the  hardeft  tugs  of  war, 
and  at  hit  drank  the  poiioned  cup  from  the  tyrant 
hands  of  her  enemy,  was  generally  under  flood  to 
be^a  peculator,  and  to  have  clandeftinely  and  dif- 
honetUy  obtained  three  hundred  thoufar.d  pounds. 

On  this  afiertion  1  put  my  direcr,  negative.  It 
may  be  laid,  however,  that  thib  is  only  alien  ion 
againft  affcrtion — True  !  Sorry  fhould  1  be  to  reft 
it  there  :  my  afiertions  are  grounded  on  iuch  proofs 
as  are  not  to  be  fnaken — proofs  on  record  in  the 
oiiice  of  the  Preliaency  of  Bombay. 

As  fcon  as  Hydernagur  was  taken  poffefiion  of, 
Kyat  Sahib  immediately  ifiued  orders  to  the  fotts 
of  Aiangaiore,  Deukull,  Ananpore,  and  fome  others 
in  that  country,  to  furrender  to  the  Bntilh  arms. 
S^rne  obeyed  the  mandate  ;  but  tbofe  three  refilled, 
and  were  reduced  by  General  Mathews.  Ren- 
dered incautious  by  fuccels,  our  aimy  became  iels 
yigilaot,  and  Tiproo  retook  Hydernagur;  and, 
in  diuct  breach   of  the  capitulation,    made  the  gar- 


SETS  OFF  FOR  BENGAL.  357 

•j-iion  prifoners,  treated  them  with  a  degree  of  in- 
humanity which  chills  the  blood  even  to  think  of, 
and  forced  General  Mathews  to  take  poifon  in 
prifon  ! 

.  Mean-time  Hyat  Sahib,  with  whom  the  Ge- 
neral had  got  into  dii'putes,  arrived  at  Bombay,  and 
laid  a  charge  againft  him,  which  he,  being  in  the 
hands  of  Tippoo,  could  not  controvert,  or  even 
know.  And  what  was  the  charge  ?  The  whole 
extent  of  it  was  his  (Mathews's)  having  got  two 
lacks  of  rupees,  and  a  pearl  necklace,  as  a  prelect 
— a  fum,  confidering.  the  country  and  circumftan- 
ftances,  not  at  all  extraordinary,  but  which  is  com- 
pletely vindicated  by  the  General's  letter  to  the 
Court  of  D.re£tors,  dated  at  Mangalore,  the  15th 
ef  March,  1783;  in  which  he  ftates  the  prelenr, 
and  requefts  permiflion  to  accept  it.  This,  as  1 
laid  before,  is  on  record,  and  was  tranflated  by  Mr. 
Sybbald,  who  was  then  Perfian  interpreter  at 
Bombay.  The  letter  I  allude  to,  you  will  fee  in 
the  Appendix.  In  fhort,  General  Mathews 
had  his  faults,  but  an  unjuft  avarice  was  not  a- 
mongft  them. 


LETTER    LIX. 


I~L 


.AVING.  in  my  laft  letter,  faid  as  much 
as  1  thougn.t  juft'cc  demanded  in  defence  of  Gen- 
eral Mathews,  againft  the  charge  of  peculation,  I 
am  now  to  ipeak  of  him  as  his  conduct,  touched  me. 
He  was,  as  I  have  already  meuiioned,  an  old  friend 
of  my  father's,  and  an  intimate  of  my  own  :  I  had 
reafon,  therefore,  to  expect  from  him,  according 
to  the  ufuai  dilpofitions  and  manners  of  men,  if  nor 
partiality,  at  lea  ft  fnendlhip  ;  and  in  i'uch  a  cafe  as 


353 


SZTS  OFF  FOR  BENGAL. 


I  have  related,  where  my  fervices  gave  rne  a  chin* 
to  nonce,  it  was  not  unres (enable  to  fuppofe  that 
he  would  have  been  forward  to  promote  my  inter- 
eft,  by  dating  my  fervices  in  !uch  a  manner  as 'o 
call  attention  to  them.  Ho  had.  however,  foine  d 
greeable  chicufhons  with  his  officers  :  and  feeing  I 
was  on  a  footing  with  Colonel  Humberts  ox.  and 
1  marc  with  Major  Campbell  ^he  who  lo  ab'y 
and  gallantly  defended  Matrsalore  aoainft  Ti  p  poo's 
whole  aimv  and  iix  hundred  French),  and  finding 
me  extremely  ze:-.:ous  ana  importunate  to  have  hvs 
arrangement  with  Hyat  Sahib  adhered  to,  he  be- 
came dlipicafed,  and.  though  he  himfeif  had  deter- 
mined th3t  I  fnould  regain  wuh  him.  changed  his 
:..:nd,  and  ordered  me  away  at  an  hour's  notice — 
many  days  fooner  than  he  had  originally  intended 
to  fend  off  any  difpatches.  He  moreover  oecafion- 
ed  my  loiing  a  ium  of  mon«v,  and  on  the  whole 
paid  iefs  attention  to  my  intereft  than  the  ciicum- 
ilances  of  the  cafe  demanded. 

In  the  evening  of  the  day  on  which  he  determt- 
ned  on  my  departure,  I  let  eff  with  his  dilpa-tches 
lo  the  governments  of  Madrais  and  Bengal,  and 
reached  the  moil  diftant  of  our  polls  that  night. 
From  thence  I  had  thirty  miles  to  Cundapore,  a  fea- 
port  town  upon  the  Malabar  coafi,  taken  by  us  from 
the  enemy.  During  this  journey,  which  was 
through  the  country  of  Tippoo  Sahib,  I  had  on- 
ly iix  Sepoys  to  conduct  me  :  yet,  iuch  was  the 
universal  ranic  that  had  ieized  all  cUfles  and  dif- 
;ii  elious  of  people  at  the  progrefs  of  the  Briiifh 
arms  in  that  quarter,  1  met  only  a  few  fcatte red 
Sepoys  who  were  lb  bauly  wounded  I  p  relume 
they  were  unable  to  travel — the  villages  through- 
out being  completely  abanaoned  by  all  their  mha- 
bi'ans. 

The  fudden  change  of  diet,  which  phyficians  tell 
us,  ana  I  experienced,  «s  dangerous,  from  bad  to 
joodj  as  well   as  ihe   reverie,  conipmng  with  the 


SETS  OFF  FOR  BENGAL.  359 

-mortification  I  felt  at  leeing  things  going  on  To  ve- 
ry contrary  to  what  I  vvifhed,  and  what  I  had  reifort 
to  expect,  had  a  mod  fudden  and  alarming  effect 
upon  my  conftitution  ;  and  I  was  Jcizid  on  the 
road  with  the  mod  excrutiating,  internal  pains, 
which  were  {ucceeded  by  a  violent  vomiting  of 
blood.  At  length,  with  great  difficulty,  I  reached 
Cundapore,  where  the  commanding  officer,  and  all 
about  him  did  every  thing  in  their  power  to  afford 
me  afiiftance  and  comfort  under  mv  mileries,  which 
:ncreaied  every  hour  rapidly.  I  felt  as  if  my  infide 
was  utterly  decayed, "and  all  its  functions  loft  in  de- 
bility :  at  the  fame  time  my  head  ieemed  deranged 
— I  could  fcarcely  comprehend  the  meaning  of 
what  was  faid  ;  lifting  up  my  head  was  attended 
with  agonizing  pain  ;  and  if  I  had  any  power  of 
thought,  it  was  to  confider  myfelf  as  appro  ching 
fall  to  dilTolution.  I  had  the  fenfe,  however, 
to  fend  to  General  Mathews,  to  aco  amt  him 
with  my  indiipolition,  and  utter  inability  to  pro- 
pvoceed  with  his  diipatches.  To  this  I  received 
die  following  letter  : 

11  Bidanorc,   Feb.   3,    1783. 

*•   Dear  Campbell, 

M  I  am  lorry  to  hear  that  you  have  beer,  unwell. 
*{  Should  your  indiipofnion  increaie,  or  continue, 
<;  lo  as  to  render  you  unable  to  purlue  your  jour- 
U  ney  with  the  neceflary  expedition,  I  beg  that 
"  you  will  forward  the  letters  to  Anjengo  by  a 
"  boat,  with  directions  to  Mr.  Hutch in  son  to 
"  fend  them  per  tappy*  to  rVlamcouh,  and  io  on 
t;  to   Madras. 

"  I  fliali  hope  to  hear  of  your  recovery,  and  that 
tc  you'll  h?ve  gone  to  fea. 

i;   Your's  very  truly, 

*s  Richard  Mathews.'* 

*  PoJl,  or  cxprefs. 


£&* 


SETS  OFF  FOR  BENGAL. 


The  receipt  of  this  letter  induced  me,  bad  as  I 
was,  to  make  one  other  exertion  ;  and  I  reiolved, 
though  I  fhould  die  on  the  way,  not  to  leave  any 
thing  which,  even  by  malicious  conflruclion,  could 
be  made  a  fet-off  againfl  my  claims  :  I  therefore 
hired  an  open  boat  to  cany  me  aiong  the  coafl  to 
Anjengo,  and  let  out  with  every  profpe£l  of  hav- 
ing the  virulence  of  my  diiorder  increafed,  by  be- 
ing expoled  in  an  uncovered  vefl'ei  to  the  camp  of 
the  night  air,  and  the  raging  heat  of  the  fun  m  the 
day,  and  of  being  arretted  by  the  hand  of  death  in 
my  way.  By  the  time  I  hao  got  down  the  coafl  as 
far  as  Mangalore,  my  ccmplaints  increafed  to  an 
alarming  height  ;  and  1  became  fpeechleis,  and  un- 
able to  Hand.  Fortunately  there  happened  to  be  a 
Company's  veiTel  then  lying  at  anchor  off  that 
place,  the  captain  of  which  had  the  goodneis  to  in- 
vite me  to  remain  on  board  with  him,  flrenuoufiy 
advifing  that  I  fhould  gve  up  the  thonghts  of  pio- 
ceedmg  immediately  on  my  voyage  to  Anjengo, 
which  I  could  not  pefiibly  furvive,  and  to  forward 
mv  difpatchcs  by  another  hand.  The  lurgeon  of 
tbc  fliip  joining  the  captain  in  opinion  that  I  could 
not  furvive  if  I  attempted  it,  and  my  own  judg- 
ment coinciding  with  t heir's,  I  at  length  conten- 
ted,  -and   remained  there. 

Tranquility,  kind  treatment,  and  good  medical 
afti fiance,  produced,  in  the  fp-.ce  of  two  or  three 
weeks,  (o  material  a  change  in  my  health,  I  was  in 
a  condition  to  avail  myleif.  at  the  expiration  ot 
that  time,  of  a  fhip  bound  to  Anjengn,  and  which 
ofTeiingthe  additional  inducement  of  touching  at 
Tellicherry,  de'.eimined  me  to  take  my  paffage  in 
her.  When  I  arrived  at  Tellicherry,  and  during 
my  flay  there,  tne  great  attention  (hewn  me  by 
Mr.  Freeman,  the  chief  of  that  place,  and  the 
comforts  of'his  houie,  refiored  me  to  a  great  (hare 
of  health  and  (pirits — And  here  a  very  fingidar  cir. 
cumflance  occurred. 


•SETS  OFF  FOR  BENGAL.  36! 

Cue  day  a  veffel  arrived  ;  and  perceiving  a  boat 
•coming  on  fhore  from  her,  Mr.  Freeman  and  I 
Walked  down  to  the  beach,  to  make  the  ufual  in- 
quiries— fuch  as,  where  (he  came  from  ?  what 
news  fhe  brought?  &c.  &<:,  As  foon  as  the  boat 
touched  the  fhore,  a  gentleman  leaped  out  of  it, 
whofe  perfon  feemed  familiar  to  me :  upon  his 
nearer  approach,  I  discovered  that  it  was  Mr. 
Brodey,  a  gentleman  who  had  been  kind  enough 
to  take  upon  him  the  office  of  my  attorney,  upon 
my  leaving  India  fome  years  before— not  my  attor- 
ney in  the  ordinary  acceptation  of  that  word,  but  a 
liberal  and  difi  mere  fled  friend,  who  obligingly  un- 
dertook the  management  of  my  affairs  in  my  ab- 
fence,  without  the  (mailed  hope  of  advantage,  or 
rather  under  circum fiances  which  ferved  as  pre- 
ludes to  further  obligations.  I  was  certainly  pleafed 
and  iurprifed  to  fee  him  ;  but  his  aftonifhment  to 
fee  me  amounted  almoft  to  a  diftruit,  of  his  eye- 
fight  :  he  had  received  fuch  indubitable  proofs  of 
my  death,  that  my  fudden  appearance  on  his  land- 
ing, at  the  firft  rufh  of  thought,  impreffed  him 
with  the  notion  of  a  dtctptio  vifus.  My  identity, 
however,  was  too  pofitive  for  refiftance  ;  and  his 
wonder  melted  down  into  cordial  fatisfa&ion,  and 
congratulations  on  my  fafety.  Pie  then  took  out  a 
pocket  account-book,  in  which,  for  fecurity  againffc 
accidents,  he  kept  accounts-current,  written  in  a 
brief  manner — and  (hewed  me  mine,  fettled  al- 
moft to  the  very  day,  upon  which  was  tranferibed 
a  copy  of  a  letter  he  had  received,  and  which  he 
thought  was  a  teilimony  of  my  death.  So,  cutting 
out  the  account,  and  prefenting  it  to  me,  he  ex- 
preffed,  in  the  moil  cordial  and  handfome  manner, 
his  joy  that  it  was  into  my  own  hands  he  had  at  laft 
had  an  opportunity  to  deliver  it.  Tft's  gentleman 
is  now  in  this  Kingdom,  and  teo  well  known  for 
me  to  defcribe  him.  Suffice  it  to  lay,  that  in  En- 
gland, as  well  as  in   India,  he  has  always  enjoyed 

H  h 


362  SETS  OFF  FOR  BENGAL. 

the  efteem  and  refpeft  of  all  his  acquaintances,  to 
as  great  an  extent  as  any  other  perfon  I  know. 

I  again  embarked  to  proceed  on  my  voyage,  and 
had  hardly  got  on  board  when  a  fhip  dropped  an- 
chor along  fide  of  us,  in  which  captain  Campbell 
of  Comby,  a  very  near  connection  of  mine,  was 
pafTenger.  On  hailing  one  another,  he  heard  that 
\  was  on  board,  and  immediteiy  was  with  me. 
Thofe  who  fincerely  love  each  other,  and  whole 
hearts  confefs  the  fond  ties  of  confanguinity,  can 
alone  conceive  what  our  mutual  pleafure  was  at 
meeting  fo  unexpectedly  in  fo  remote  a  corner  of 
the  world.  He  was  then  on  his  way  to  join  the 
army.  This  amiable  young  man,  now  repofes  in 
the  bed  of  honour  at  Mangalore  !  He  fell,  after 
having  diftinguiihed  himfelf  in  the  very  gallant 
defence  made  by  that  place  againft  the  whole  force 
of  Tip  poo.  With  regret  we  parted  :  and  in  due 
time  I  arrived  at  Anjengo  without  any  accident 
befalling  me,  which  was  rather  extraordinary. 

Leaving  Anjengo,  I  fet  out  for  Madras,  delign- 
ing  to  go  all  the  way  by  land — a  journey  of  near 
eight  hundred  miles.  I  accordingly  flruck  through 
the  Kingdom  of  Travancore,  whofe  fovereign  is 
in  alliance  with  the  Engliih  ;  and  had  not  long 
enteied  the  territories  of  the  Nabob  of  Arcot,  be- 
fore Major  Macneal,  an  old  friend  of  mine, 
and  commandant  of  a  fort  in  that  diftrift,  met  me 
preceded  by  a  troop  of  dancing  girls,  who  encir- 
cled any  palanquin,  dancing  around  rne  until  I 
entered  the  Major's  houfe. 

It  would  be  difficult  to  give  you  an  adequate 
notion  of  thofe  dancing  girls.  Trained  up  from 
their  infancy  to  the  practice  of  the  molt  graceful 
motions,  the  mod  artful  difplay  of  perfonai  fym- 
metry,  and  the  mod  wanton  allurements,  they 
dance  in  fuch  a  ftyle,  and  twine  their  limbs  and 
bodies  into  fuch  poflures.  as  bewitch  the  fenles, 
and  extort  applaufe  and  admiration  where  in  ftrift- 


SETS  OFF  FOR  BENGAL.  <x6x 


nefs  difapprobation  is  due  :   nor  is  their  agility  in- 
ferior   to    the    grace  of    their  movements— though 
they  do  not  exert  it  in  the   fame  {kipping  way  that 
our  ltage  dancers  do,    but  make    it   iubiervient  to 
the  elegance,   and,    I    may    fay,  grandeur,  of  their 
air.      They  are  generally  found  in   troops  of  fix  or 
eight,    attended   by  muucians,     whofe  aipecr.    and 
drefs  are  as  uncouth  and  fqualid,  as  the  founds  they 
produce  under  the   name  of    mufic,    are  inelegant, 
harfh  and  diffbnant.      To  this    mufic,    from  which 
mealure    as    much   as    harmony    is    excluded,  rhey 
d»nce,   mod  wonderfully  adapting  their  dep  to  the 
perpe-ual    change    of    the    time,     accompanying  it 
with  amorous  fongs,  while  the  correiponUeru  aftion 
of  their  body   and    limbs,    the    wanton  palpitation 
and  heaving   of   their  ex  qui  fuel  y   formed    bofoms, 
and  the  amorous,   or  rather  lalcivious  expreffion  of 
their  countenance,  excite  in  the  fpe&ators  emotions 
not  very  favourable  to   chadity.     Thus   they  con- 
tinue.to  aft,   till,  by   the  warmth   of   exercife   and 
imagination,  they    become    feemingly  frantic    with 
ecdacy,  and,  finking  down  motionleis  with  fatigue, 
throw  thermfelves    into  the   mod   alluring  attitudes 
that  ingenious  vice  and  voluptuoufnefs  can  pofhbly 
deviie. 

That  fuch  incitements  to  vice  fhould  make  a 
part  of  the  fyilem  of  any  fociety,  is  to  be  lament- 
ed :  yet,  at  all  ceremonies  and  great  occalions,  whe- 
ther of  religious  worfhip  or  domeflic  enjoyment, 
they  make  a  part  of  the  entertainment  ;  and  the 
altar  of  their  gods,  and  the  purity  of  the  marriage 
riies,  are  alike  polluted  by  the  introduction  of  the 
dancing  girls.  The  impurity  of  this  cultom,  how- 
ever, vanifhes  in  India,  when  compared  with  th» 
hideous  practice  of  introducing  dancing  boys. 

The  Major,  after  having  entertained  me, in  the 
mod  holpitable  manner,  accompanied  me  to  Palam- 
cotah,  to  the  houfe  of  D.cior  Dorr,  who  lived 
in  a  generous  and  hofpitable,^yle.     I  had  once  had 


3^4  SETS  OFF  FOR  BENGAL. 

an  opportunity  of  evincing  my  good  difpofition  t* 
this  gentleman,  when  he  was  moft  ctitieally  fuu- 
ated  ;  and  the  reception  he  gave  me  demonftrated, 
that  he  than  retained  a  lively  fenfe  of  my  conduct 
•o  him. 

Leaving  Palamcotah,  I  continued  my  route  thro' 
Madura.  This  country  is  rendered  remarkable  by 
the  revolt  of  the  famous  Is  if  Ca-wn,  who  made  a 
bold  and  well-conducted  attempt  to  ereft  himielf 
into  the  foveieignty  of  that  province,  independent 
ef  the  Nabob  of  the  Carnatic,  in  whofe  fervice  he 
was :  and  as  the  affair  occurs  to  my  thoughts,  I 
will,  for  your  information,  notwithftanding  its 
being  unconnected  with  my  ftory,  digrefs  into  an 
account  of  it.  As  foon  as  the  revolt  of  Im 
Cawn  was  known,  General  Mo n son,  an  officer 
of  great  military  (kill  and  perfonal  merit,  went 
agair.fl  him  at  the  head  of  the  King's  and  com- 
pany's troops,  and  in  veiled  the  fort  of  Madura, 
in  which  that  rebellious  chief  was  poftcd.  The 
general  made  a  practicable  breach,  and,  in  fiorm- 
ing,  was  beat  back  with  great  {laughter  by  I  sip  ; 
and  the  fetting  in  of  the  monfoons  immediately 
after,  retarded  the  further  operations  of  our  army 
ag3in(l  the  place;  and  in  the  interim,  peace  hav- 
ing been  concluded  between  the  courts  of  St. 
James's  and  Verfailles,  the  King's  troops  were 
withdrawn. 

On  the  recall  of  the  King's  troops,  an  army  of 
company's  troops  was  formed,  to  proceed  again  ft 
Madura,  in  order  to  reduce  this  gallant  turbulent 
rebel  to  fubje&ion  ;  and  the  renowned  general 
Lawrence  being  rendered  incapable  of  aftual 
fervice,  and  obliged  to  remain  at  the  prefidency  by 
extreme  age  and  infirmity,  the  chief  command  de- 
volved upon  my  father  by  feniority  :  he  headed  the 
expedition  ;  and,  after  overcoming  innumerable 
difficulties  thrown  in  his  way  by  the  inventive 
genius,  and  enterprifing  (Wit  of  Is  if  Cawn,  again 


SETS  OFF  FOR  BENGAL.  $65 

made  a  breach,  which  was  deemed  practicable  by 
the  chief  engineer,  now  Sir  John  Call.  An 
affault  was  made  with  no  better  luccels  than  the 
former;  for  our  army  was>  again  repul:ed  with  in- 
credible Gaughtei  :  more  than  two  thirds,  I  believe, 
of  our  European  officers,  were  among  the  killed 
6r  Wounded;  md  the  death  o  M  joi  Pristom, 
f  cond  in  command,  a  man  endeared  10  the  .ay 
by  the  poffeffion  of  every  advantage  of  perfbn, 
heart  and  '^ients— — an  aftive,  intrepid  and  a:4e  offt- 
Cer— aggravated  the  calami; ies  of  the  day. 

It,  impelled  bv  my  feelings,  or  temped  by  re- 
membrance of  the  paft.  1  fonrjetimes  digrtefs  front 
the  direft  path  of  my  narrative;  my  Frederick 
will  accompany  rae,  not  only  with  patience,  but  I 
dare  uy  With  pieaiure  :  I  cannot  refrain,  therefore, 
from  mentioning  a  memorable  occurrence  during 
that  fiege,  not  only  as  it  is  lomewhat  extraordinary 
in  ftielr,  but  as  it  relates  to  a  very  near  and  dear 
Cohnt  ftion.  Colonel  Donald  Campbell,  who 
then  commanded  the  cavalry,  received  no  less  than 
fourteen  lword-wounds  and  a  mulquet-ball  in  his 
b  >cy — yet  continued  aomg  iv.s  duty  with  iuch  cool 
intrepidity,  that  brave  ioloiers  who  were  witneil.i 
to  it,  exprefl^d  the  utmolt  afloniihm-nt  :  upon  be- 
in^  icquelted  to  quit  the  held,  he  replied,  thai  as 
his  family  weie  provided  for,  he  had  nothing  to 
fear  ;  and  as  it  was  very  unlikely  his  life  could  be 
laved,  he  would  net  deprive  his  country  of  any 
advantage  that  might  be  derived  from  his  exertions 
for  the  fhort  refidue  of  it,  but  continue  to  the  lad 
moment  at  his  duty.  With  all  this  hrmnefs  and 
magnanimity .  he  was  gentle,  good- humoured,  mo- 
de ft  and  unauuming ;  and  was  admired  for  his  great 
perional  beauty,  as  weli  as  militaiy  talents,  particu- 
larly by  the  Duke  oi  Cumberland,  under  whom 
be  ieived  in  the  war  in  Germany  as  a  fuballern 
officer,  in  fo  much  that  his  Royal  Highnefs  had  his 
picture  drawn.     It  was  toJiim  the  company  were 

H  h" 


366 


SETS  OFF  FO*  BENGAL, 


firft  indebted  for  the  introduction  of  perfect  mili- 
tary difcipline  iruo  their  army  in  India.  In  the 
various  relations  in  which  he  flood,  whether  do- 
meftic  or  public,  as  the  fubject,  the  citizen,  the 
father,  or  the  friend,  he  was  fo  uniformly  excel- 
lent, that  the  fhafts  of  malevolence,  which  the  befk 
and  wife  ft  of  men  have  but  toe  often  felt,  feldora 
reached  him ;  and  he  may  juflly  be  reckoned 
amongft  that  very  fmall  number  of  created  beings, 
of  whom  Icarcely  any  one  had  the  audacity  to  fpeak 
ill.  Upon  my  firft  arrival  in  India,  1  was  put  un- 
der his  command,  and  lived  in  his  family — when, 
inftead  of  deporting  himfelf  towards  me  with  that 
referve  and  aufterity  which  rank,  and  reputation 
like  his,  coupled  with  the  circumftance  of  his  be- 
ing my  uncle,  might  in  fome  fort  have  juftified,  he 
tcok  me  into  his  confidence,  treated  me  with  the 
greateft  affection,  and  afted  rather  as.  the  brother 
and  the  equal,  than  as  the  parent  and  fuperior  ;  and. 
thus  his  gentle  admonitions  had  more  effect  in  re- 
flraining  the  Tallies  of  youth,  and  impetuofuy  of 
my  temper,  than  the  four,  unpalatable  documents 
of  a  lupercilious  preceptor  could  poilibly  have 
had. 

The  wonderful  effe&s  of  this  happy  temper  in 
fwaying  the  ftubborn  difpofition  of  headflrong 
youth,  was  exemplified  in  another  inftance — of 
which,  fmce  I  am  on  the  iubje6t,  I  will  infoinn 
you.  Mr,  Dupres,  then  governor  of  Madras,, 
wrote  to  him  about  a  young  gentleman,  in  the  fol- 
lowing words  : 

M  My  dear  Colonel, 
•'   In   the  l.ft  of  officers  appointed  to  your  garri- 

"  (on,  you  will  fee  the  name  of .     This 

44  young  man  (nephew  to  Mrs.  Dupxes),  with 
«*  abilities  that  might  render  him  conlpicuous,  I 
"  am  lorry  to  fay,  itands  in  need  of  a  (Irict  hand. 
11  All  the  favour  1  have   to  requefl   of  you  is  to 


SETS  OFF  FOR  BENGAL.  3$y 

*'  (hew  him  no  favour  :  keep  him  rigidly  to  his 
u  duty;  and,  if  he  requires  it,  rule  him  with  a 
*'  rod  of  iron.  Should  his  future  conduct  meet 
"  your  approbation,  it  is  unnecefiary  for  me  to  afk 
*'  it,  as  you  are  always  ready  to  fliew  kindnefs  to 
'*  thofe  who  merit  it»" 

The  peculiar  flyle  of  this  letter  made  fuch  an 
imprefiion  on  my  memory,  that  I  am  able  to  give 
the  ex<ift  words.  Colonel  Campbell,  however, 
took  his  own  unalterable  method,  mildneis — treated 
the  young  gentleman  in  fuch  a  manner  as  to  raiie 
in  him  a  conlcioufnefs  of  his  dignity  as  a  man,  the 
firfl  and  bed  guard  againft  miic®ndu& — and  ap- 
pointed him  to  the  grenadier  company*  The  relult 
was  anfwerable  to  his  expectations  ;  for  the  young 
man's  conducl,  both  as  an  officer  and  a  gentleman, 
was  luch  in  the  fequel  as  to  reflecl:  credit  on  him- 
felf  and  his  family  ;  and  his  very  honourable  and 
hopeful  career  was  at  laft  terminated  by  a  cannon- 
ball  at  the  fiege  of  Tanjore. 

if  the  veneration  in  which  I  (hall  ever  hold  this 
mod  dear  and  refpe£ted  relative  admitted  of  m- 
creale,  it  would  certainly  receive  it  from  the  con- 
tract I  am  every  day  obliged  to  draw  between  him 
and  the  wretched  butUrjiits  who  fometimes  flutter 
round  us  under  the  name  of  men  :  for,  how  can  I 
help  contrafting  his  inflexible  courage,  united  to 
angelic  mildneis,  with  the  iniolence  of  lilly-livered 
Re £tors,  who,  confcious  of  the  mod  abjc£t  cowar- 
dice, dare  to  give  an  infult,  and  biiely  ikuik  front 
Uoneft  refemment  beneath  the  arm  of  me  law  !— • 
fellows  who,  like  Bobadil  in  the  play,  can  kill  a 
whole  army  with  the  tongue,  but  date  uot  face  a 
pigmy  in  tne  field  I — and,  while  they  want  the 
prudence  to  .reilram  the  torrent  of  effeminate  in- 
ve&ive,  have  patience  enough  to  bear  a  kicking, 
or  a  box  in  the  ear  ! — who  bluiler  and  vapour  to 
hide  the  trembling  Umt>  and   poltroon  afpetfc,  as 


368 


SETS  OFF  FOR  BENGAL. 


children   whittle   in  the  dark    to  hnve    the    ghofts 
thev  dread  !    Beware  of  ail    fuch  wre'ehes    as    you 
wouid   fhun    plague  or  peftilence.      1  hope  you  do 
no     magine  that   I  have   fo  little   common  fenfe  or 
]      lanthrojjy  as  to  centare  thofe  who,    from  phyfi- 
c. .  cautes  or  conftitutionai   delicacv,    are    averie  to 
cont'd  :   No,  no — I  do  a  dure  you,  on  the  contrary, 
that  m\    oi  ieivatiou  leads   me   ?o  think    luch    men, 
though  il  iv\   to  quarrel,  and  morienfive  in  conduft, 
are  vciy  gallant  when  honour  01  duty  demand  from 
them  a  conq  i   ft  over  their  weakrrels.      I  have,     in 
mv  time,  feeii    mch  men  at    hilt  the    Iport,    and  at 
laft    the   tenor   of  your    bluftering    bullies  ;  and  I 
have  always  thought,   that  in    luch    a  triumph  over 
their    feein.gs,  they  had  more  true   merit  than  men 
confittutionalv  courageous  :   the   latter   has    his  va- 
lour in  common  with  the  mere    animal  ;   the    oher 
poiLiT  s     the   valoar   of    fentirnent.      1    mear.   that 
incft    ignominious  of  all    beings,   who,   prodigal  in 
oftence,  yet    reluctant   in  repaiation — who,   hoping 
to   find    (ome    ptiion    paflive    as    themle.vcs    nver 
whem   to  triumph,   haz3rd    the  giving  of  an  imulr, 
with    the  malignant  view  to    galconade  over  him  if 
he  lubmits — and,  if  he  refents,  to  wreak  the  whole 
vengeance  of  law  upon  him.      In  icuety  wuhfuch 
men,  there  is   no   lately  ;  for  they  leave    you  oniy 
the  caiuai  alternative  to  choole  between   fhame  *    d 
ruin.      Him  who  fubmits,   they  cell  poltroon  ;   ..nd 
him  who  relents,  they  fleece  in  form  of  law.  1  Here 
are    others    who,     to    bring  their    fellow-cieatures 
down  to  their  own  level,   biavc  the   execrations  of 
mankind,     and   the    vengeance    ol    Heaven  :    luch 
harpies  do  exilt,   who,   though  bold   enough   to  in- 
i til t ,  are  tame  enough  to  receive  chaftilement  with- 
out reft  fiance  ;  and,   though  tame  enough  io  lubmit 
to  c  nent,    are    fo    fuuoufly    vinurctive  as   to 

proclaim  their  fhame,  their  cowardice,  perhaps  in 
the  i^ce  of  an  open  court,  in  oider  to  glut  t heir 
revenge-  by  the  uilla^e  ofVtheir  adveifary's  t..urie. 


BURNING  OF  GENTOO  WIDOWS.   3% 

Let  fuch  men  enjoy  the  fruits  of  their  machinati- 
ons, if  they  can — To  their  own  feelings  I  confign 
them;  for  I  can  wifh  a  villain  no  greater  curfe 
than  the  company  of  his  own  confcience,  nor  a 
poltroon  *  more  poignant  fting  than  that  which 
the  contempt  of  mankind  infli&s  upon  him. 


LETTER    LX. 


P 


ASSING  through  Madura,  I  arrived  at 
Trichinopoly,  where  I  met  Mr.  Sullivak,  the 
refident  of  Tanjore,  who  very  politely  furnifhed 
me  with  a  letter  to  Mr.  Hippesley,  his  deputy 
at  Tanjore,  from  whom  I  received  many  marks  of 
civil  i'.y.  At  that  place  L  had  the  plea  lure  of  meet- 
ing a  gentleman  with  whom  I  had  been  at  college, 
and  for  whom  I  had  always  entertained  a  great 
efteem  :  this  was  Colonel  Fullarton.  It  is  an 
old  maxim,  that  we  fhould  fay  nothing  but  good  of 
the  dead — "  De  mortuis-  nil  nifi  bonum."  It  is 
not  a  new  maxim,  I  believe,  to  avoid  praifing  ths 
living  :  I  am  aware  of  the  indelicacy  of  it  ;  and 
therefore  purpolely  avoid  in  this,  as  I  fhall  in  other 
in  fiances,  fpeaking.  the  full  opinion  I  entertain, 
To  the  general  efteem  in  which  he  was  held  by  all 
ranks  of  people  in  India,  I  refer  you  to  Colonel 
Fullartok's  character  :  it  is  of  fuch  a  fort,  that 
I  wifh  to  hold  it  up  for  your  imitation.  At  a  time 
of  life  when  others  have  arrived  to  fome  perfection 
in  their  profeflion,  he  made  choice  of  his,  and  en- 
tered for  the  fit  ft  time  into  the  arduous  military  de- 
partment, with  a  command  for  which  the  training 
of  many  years  is  no  more  than  fnfScient  to  prepare 
other  men.  The  Minifter  of  that  day  gave  him 
this  important  charge,  underwent  the  clamours  •£. 


370   BURNING  OF  GENTOO  WIDOWS. 

Oppofition  for  it,  and  was  juftined  in  the  event. 
When  the  Colonel  came  to  aft,  fo  far  from  be- 
ing deficient,  his  whole  conduft  was  diilinguifhed, 
net  lefs  for  military  talent  than  courage — while  the 
mod  fortunate  command  and  temper  and  captiva- 
ting addrefs  f'ubdued  the  fpirit  of  prejudice,  recon- 
ciled the  moll  dilcordanf,  and  gained  him,  though 
a  King's  Officer,  the  efteern  as  much  of  the  Com- 
pany's as  King's  troops.  In  fhort,  all  ranks  of 
people,  civil  as  well  as  military,  whether  belong- 
ing to  King^or  Company,  united  in  approbation  of 
his  couduft — a  thing  not  before,  nor  iince,  but  m 
the  per  f  on  of  Lord  Corn  wall  is. 

Too  much  cannot  be  faid  of  the  advantages  re- 
fulting  from  a  proper  command  of  temper.  To 
promote  that  in  my  Flderick,  will  be  attended 
with  little  difficulty  :  on  the  contrary,  my  only 
doubt  is,  that  the  placability  and  iniidntii  of  his 
d  fpofition  will  too  often  fubjeft  him  to  impofition, 
John  is,  however,  of  a  different  temper  ;  there  is 
iomething  in  it  which  requires  both  admonition 
and  good  example  to  reprels  within  proper  bounds  : 
to  fhew  him  the  beauty  as  well  as  uie  of  a  mild, 
cool  temper,  fuch  inflahces  as  Colonel  . Fullar- 
ton  may  be  of  weight,  and  I  wifh  him  to  reflect 
upon  it.  And  here  I  am  reminded  of  a  perfon  and 
a  encumftance  fo  exaftly  in  point,  that  I  cannot 
refrain  from  noticing  them  :  they  convey  no  inade- 
quate idea  of  the  happinefs  reiulung  from  a  gentle- 
neus  of  nature,  and  dominion  over  the  mind  ;  and 
as  the  perfon  I  allude  to  is  dead,  I  may  {peak  of 
him  with  the  greater  freedom  in  that  full  (train  of 
praifc  of  which  his  Chining  virtues  deierve. 

Of  all  the  men  I  have  ever  had  the  good  fortune 
to  know,  Sir  Archibald  Campbell  pofleiTed, 
in  the  higheit  degree,  that  heavenly  turn  of  minri, 
which  not  only  is  at  peace  with  ilfelf,  but  diffules 
harmony  and  cheerfulness  around  it.  No  bufinefs, 
however  urgent  in  occahon,  refliifted   in  point  of* 


BURNING  OF  GENTOO  WIDOWS.   37 1 

time,  or  embarraffed  with  difficulty — no  accident, 
however  unexpecVd,  or  event,  however  finifter— • 
none  of  thofe  innumerable  minutiae  which  fret  and 
chafe  the  tempers  of  other  men,  ever  (ufpended  the 
cool  tenor  of  his  thought  even  for  a  moment  :  noth- 
ing  (hook,  the  ferenity  of  his  temper — nothing  de- 
ranged the  prefence  of  his  mind  :  uniform  and  pla- 
cid, he  in  all  fituations  had  the  full  dominion  of 
himfelf,  and  in  the  field  it  gave  him  a  decided  fu- 
periority  ;  nor  was  this  felicity  of  nature  confined 
to  his  public  conduct  ;  it  attended  him  at  the  do- 
meftic  enjoyments  of  the  fire- fide — at  the  fociat 
board — in  the  private  recefles  of  his  clofet  ;  and 
the  very  fame  habit  of  foul  which,  in  his  great  pub- 
lic duties,  rendered  him  valuable  to  his  Country, 
and  formidable  to  her  enemies,  gained  him  the  ad- 
miration an«l  efteeru  of  his  friends,  the  unbounded 
affeftion  of  his  family,  and  the  bleiTing  of  all  his 
dependants. 

An  incident  that  occured  in  my  prefence  may 
ferve  in  fome  meafure  to  decipher  the  mmd  of  this 
admirable  man — I  fhall  never  forget  it.  Previoufly 
to  his  going  to  India,  he  had  exerted  his  interest 
to  obtain  from  the  Eafl  India  Company  Jome  re- 
ward for  my  fervices  ;  and,  a  few  days  before  his 
departure,  promiied  to  fpeak  again  to  Mr.  De- 
Vaynes,  Chairman  of  the  Eafl  India  Company.  I 
waned  on  him  on  the  day  he  was  letting  off  :  he 
was  jufl  about  to  depart,  and  furrounded  by  a  nu- 
merous circle.  In  the  midfh  of  this  bultle,  and  the 
confufion,  one  would  fuppofe,  infeparable  from 
fuch  a  crifis,  he  recollected  his  promife — told  mc 
Mr.  Devaynes  had  that  minute  taken  leave  of 
him,  and  he  had  forgot  to  mention  me.  but  faid 
that  he  would  write  to  him  on  the  iubjeft  :  and, 
though  he  was  at  the  inftant  on  the  point  of  mo- 
▼ing  to  the  carriage  that  was  to  carry  him  off,  fat 
down,  qhd  with  that  amiable  iweetnefs  of  manners 
and  happily  collected  mind  fo  peculiarly  his  own, 


37^    BURNING  OF  GENTOO  WIDOWS. 

wrote  a  letter  for  me  to  Mr.  De  VAYNES^--holdrng 
converfation,  the  while,  in  the  mod  lively,  enga- 
ging manner,  with  the  perfons  aiound  him.  The 
concifenefs  and  perfpicuity  of  language  in  which, 
this  letter  was  couched,  will  ferve  to  elucidate 
what  1  have  faid — I  therefore  tranfcribe  it  for  you  : 

"  St.  James's  Hotel,  Sept,  30,   1785. 

Xl  Drar  Sir, 

**  I  forgot  to  mention  to  you  this  forenoon,  and 
**  aga;n  to  repeat  my  earned  wifhes,  you  would 
'*  take  the  cafe  of  Mr.  Campbell  ipeedily  into 
4t  your  consideration.  His  lufferings  were  of  fuch 
18  a  nature,  and  his  fervices  fo  meritorious,  that  I 
*c  am  peifuaded,  upon  a  fair  inveftigation  of  both, 
u  you  will  give  him  your  firmed  lupport.  I  have 
*{  loaked  into  all  his  papers  \  and  the  teftimoriies 
**  of  eflential  fervices  rendered  to  the  Company  by 
4i  him,  do  him,  in  my  opinion,  the  higheft  ho- 
"  nour.  Unlets  fuch  merits  are  recom-penfed,  few 
Xi  will  rifk  every  thing,  as  Mr.  Campbell  did,  to 
Ai  promote  the  luccefs  of  the  Company's  arms  in 
11  India:  but  I  truft  you  will  fee  it  in  its  proper 
"  light  ;  and  in  that  hope  I  (hall  only  add,  that 
"  whatever  acts  of  kindnefs  you  fhevv  to  him,  will 
*'  be  confidered  as  an  obligation  conferred  on, 

"  Dear  Sir, 
**  Your  faithful  and  mofl  obedient  humble  fervant, 
'*  Archibald  Campbell." 

"   To  William  Devaynes,  £/q*" 

Be  allured,  my  dear  boys,  (for  now  I  fneak  to 
John  as  well  as  Frederick),  that  one  act  of  tri- 
umph over  the  temper  is  worth  a  million  of  tri- 
umphs over  our  fellow-creatures,  and  that  the  per- 
fect dominion  of  our  mind  is  more  advantageous 
and  laudable  than  the  dominion  over  Provinces  or 
Nations,     The  one  attaches  merely  to  our  corpo- 


BURNING  OF  GENTOO  WIDOWS.    $J$ 

-real  part,  and  is  buried  with  our  duft  in  the  grave  : 
the  other  follows  our  immortal  part,  and  paries  with 
it  into  eternity. 

On  my  leaving  Tanjore,  Colonel  Fullarton7 
honoured  me  with  the  care  of  a  letter  to  Lord 
Macartney,  then  Governor  of  Madras — an  ex- 
tract or  which  I  give  you,  as  it  applied  to  my  buii- 
nefs  particularly  : 

"   Tanjore,   March  20,    1783. 

"  My  Lord, 
"   1  had  the  honour  to  write  to  your  Jordfhip  on 
'   the -8th  by  Captain  Hai-lam,   who  carried    from 
4  hence  very  large  packets  to  you.      The  opportu- 
'  nity  of  Captain  Campbell    tempts    me  to  trou* 

*  ble  your  lordfhip,  merely  to  inform  you,  that 
''  ail  my  letters  from  Bidanoie  afcribe  in  a  great 
4  degree  the  fucceis  of  our  arms  in  that  quarter, 
4  and  the  romantic  Revolution  efrected  theie,  to 
4  the  influence  he  had  with  Hyat  Sahib,  .and 
'  to  the  propofals  of  iutiender  which  he  iuggeft- 
;  ed,  and  tranlacled  with  the  General  and  Jema- 
;  dar.      I  think    it    neceflary    that    you,    rny    lord, 

*  may  know    how  mucn  the  Public    is  indcb'ed  to 

*  Captain  Campbell,  whofe  good  fortune  in  this 
'  affair  has  only  been  equalled  by  his  good  conHutt. 
i  He  is  perfectly  acquainted  wim  tne  ftate  of  af- 
'  faiis  on  the  oiher  coait,  and  has  ieen  and  heard 
c    much  of  our  trania£f:ons  here  ;  fo  that  no  perion 

can    give     a   more    clear    or    unbiased   view    of 
events." 

I  had  alfo  the  good  luck  to  meet,  at  Tanjore, 
Mr.  Buchanan,  a  very  near  conncft'on  or  mine, 
for  whom  i  had  long  entertained  a  fmcete  and 
warm  regard.  It  has  been  my  misfortune  to  h3ve 
obliged  fiecjuenily  to  cenfure  lorne  of  my  re- 
latives for  til-nature  and    ingratitude  :    I  nevei  uid 

II 


374   BURNING  OF  GEXTOO  WIDOWS. 

fo  without  the  mod  painful  fenfations.  When, 
on  the  contrary,  I  am  enabled  to  fpeak  to  their 
honour,  I  feel  a  proportionate  fhare  of  pleafure  : 
I  am  therefore  happy  in  mentioning  Mr.  Buchan- 
an* as  a  man  as  amiable  in  his  private  as  relpe&able 
in  his  public  character  ;  but  the  latisfaction  I  felt 
at  this  meeting  was  much  alloyed  by  finding  him 
in  a  very  bad  ftate  of  health. 

Before  I  left  Tanjore,  I  had  an  opportunity  of 
being  eye-witnefs  to  that  extraordinary  and  horrid 
ceremony,  the  burning  of  a  Gentoo  woman  with 
the  body  of  her  hufband.  As  this  is  a  point  which 
has  occalioned  much  fpeculation  and  fome  doubt 
among  Europeans,  I  indole  you  an  accurate  ac- 
count of  the  ceremeny,  as  minuted  down  at«  the 
time  it  happened. 


Defcription  of  the  Ceremony   of  the    Gentoo   V/omeJi 
burning  themjelves  with  the  bodies  of  their  Hufbands. 

ii  This  day,  ,   I  went  to  fee  a  Gentoo 

woman  refign  herlelf  to  be  burned  along  with  the 
corpse  of  her  deceafed  hufbmd. 

"  The  piece  fixed  upon  for  this  tragic  fcene,  was 
a  fmall  iflet  on  the  bank  of  one  of  the  branches  of 
the  river  Cavery,  about  a  mile  to  the  Northward 
of  J l^e  fort  of  Tanjoie. 

(i  When  I  came  10  the  foot,  I  found  the  vi&im, 
who  appeared  to  be  not  above  fixteen,  fitting  on 
the  ground,  diefiea  in  the  Gentoo  manner,  with 
a  white  Cloth  wrapped  round  her,  fome  white 
fl  wers  likv  j  QTamins  hanging  lound  her  neck,  and 
ic  me  of  tnem  hanging  from  her  hair.  There  were 
al  out  twenty  women  luting  on  their  hams  round 
her,  holding  a  white  hanaketchief,  extenced  hori- 
zontal!) over  her  head,  to  inaoe  hei  fiom  the  lun, 
ii  v\a&  excviiiveiy  not,  u  being  then  about 
noon. 


BURNING  OF  GENTOO  WIDOWS.    375 

';  At  about  twenty  yards  from  where  fhe  was  fit- 
ting, and  facing  her,  there  were  feveral  Bramms 
buiy  in  conftrucling  a  pile  with  biilets  of  fire- 
wood :  the  pile  was  about  eight  feet  long,  and 
four  broad.  They  firft  began  by  driving  iome 
upright  flakes  into  the  ground,  and  then  built  up 
the  middle  to  about  the  height  of  three  feet  and  a 
half  with  billets  of    wood. 

;<  The  dead  hufb.ind,  who.  from  his  appearance, 
feemed  to  be  about  iixty  years  of  age,  wis  lying 
?  by,  {Iretchod  out  on  a  bier,  made  of  Bamboo 
E  ..es.  Four  Bramins  walked  in  procelhon  three 
limes  round  the  dead  body,  full  in  a  direction  con- 
ruiy  to  the  fun,  and  afterwards  other  three  tiroes  in 
a  direction  with  the  fun, all  the  while  my  tie  ring  hi- 
cantations  ;  and  at  each  round  or  circuit  they  made, 
they  untwi.fted,  and  immediately  again  twifted  up 
the  hnaii  long  lock  of  hair  which  is  left,  unfhaven 
at  the  back  of  their  heads. 

Si  Some  other  Bramins  were  in  the  mean  time 
employed  in  fprinkling  water  out  of  a  green  leaf, 
toiled  up  like  a  cup,  upon  a  {mall  heap  of  cakes 
of  dry  cow-dung,  with,  which  the  pile  was  after- 
wards to  be  let  on  fire. 

f  An  old  Bramin  fat  at  the  North-eaft  corner  of 
the  pile  upon  his  hams,  with  a  pair  of  ipectacles  on, 
reading,  I  luppo  e,  the  Shatter,  or  their  Scriptures, 
from  a  book  cotnpofed  of  Csjan  leaves. 

*'  Having  been  present  now  nearly  an  hour,  I 
inquired  when  they  meant  to  let  the  piie  on  hie  : 
they  anfwered,  in  about  two  hours.  As  this  ipec- 
tacle  was  molt  melancholy,  and  naturally  Prruck  ma 
w;th  horror,  and  as  I  had  only  gone  there  to  aiTure 
myfelf  of  the  truth  of  jack  Jacrif.ces  b^ing  made,  I 
went  away  towards  the  for1".  After  I  was  gone 
about  five  hundred  yards,  they  lent  fosoe  one  to 
tell  me  they  would  burn  immediately  ;  on  which  I 
returned,  and  found  the  woman  had  been  moved 
Uotn  where  ihc  wai  fating  to  the  river,   where  the 


37$    BURNING  OF  GENTOO  WIDOWS. 

Bramins  were  bathing  her.  On  taking  her  out  of 
the  water,  they  put  iosne  money  in  her  hand,  which 
ihe  clipped  in  the  rLver,  and  divided  among  the 
Bramins:  Ihe  had  then  a  yellow  cloth  rolled  par- 
tially round  her.  They  put  fome  red  colour,  about 
the  fize  of  a  fixpence,  on  the  centre  of  her  fore- 
head, and  rubbed  iomething  that  appeared  to  me 
to  be  ctay.  She  was  then  led  to  the  pile,  iound 
which  (he  walked  three  times  as  the  fun  goes  :  fhe 
then  momted  it  at  the  North-eaft  coiner,  without 
any  a  fit  Ma  nee  ;  and  fat  herfelf  down  on  the  right 
tide  of  her  hufb.ind,  who  had  been  previoufly  laid 
upon  the  pile.  Siie  then  unlciewed  the  pins  which 
fattened  the  jewels  or  ftlver  rings  on  her  arms : 
after  fhe  had  taken  them  off,  fhe  (hut  them,  and 
icrewed  in  the  pins  again,  and  gave  one  to  each  of 
two  women  who  were  (landing  :  fhe  unferewed  the 
ear-rings,  and  other  toys,  with  great  compofure,  and 
divided  them  among  the  women  who  were  with 
her.  There  teemed  to  be  fome  little  fquabble  about 
the  distribution  of  her  jewels,  which  fhe  fettled 
with  great  precifion  ;  and  then,  falling  gently 
backwards,  pulled  a  fold  of  the  yellow  cloth  over 
her  face,  turned  her  bread  towards  her  hufbands 
Tide,  and  laid  her  right  aim  over  his  bread  ;  and  in 
this  pofrure  fhe  remained  without  moving. 

"  Juil  before  (he  lay  down,  the  Biamins  put 
fome  rice  in  her  lap,  and  alio  lome  in  the  mouth 
and  on  the  long  grey  beard  of  her  hufband  :  they 
then  fprinkled  fome  water  on  the  head,  breatt  and 
feet  of  both,  a:rd  tied  them  gently  together  round 
the  middle  with  a  {lender  bit  of  rope:  they  then 
raited,  as  it  were,  a  little  wall  of  wood  lengthways 
on  two  hdes  of  the  pile,  (o  as  to  raiie  it  above  the 
Jevel  of  the  bodies  ;  and  then  put  crols  pieces,  io 
as  to  prevent  the  billets  of  wood  from  preiiing  on 
them  :  they  then  poured  on  the  pile,  above  where 
the  woman  lay,  a  potful  of  fomething  that  appeared 
to  me  to  be  oil ;  after   this  they   heaped  on  moia 


BURNING  OF  GENTOO  WIDOWS.    377 

wood,  to  the  height  of  about  four  feet  above  where 
the  bodies  were  built  in  ;  lb  that  all  I  now  law  was 
a  flack,  of  (ire -wood. 

"  One  of  the  Bramins,  I  obferved,  Rood  at  the 
end  of  the  pile  next  the  woman's  head — was  call- 
ing to  her  through  the  interftices  of  the  wood, 
and  laughed  leveral  times  during  the  converiation, 
LaiHy,  they  overfpread  the  pile  with  wet  draw, 
and  tied  it  on  with  ropes. 

'•'  A  Bramin  then  took  a  handful  of  draw,  which 
he  fet  on  fire  at  the  little  heap  of  burning  cakes  of 
cow-dung  :  and,  Handing  to  windward  of  the  pile, 
he  let  the  wind  drive  the  flame  from  the  draw  till 
it  catched  the  pile.  Fortunately,  at  this  indant, 
the  wind  role  much  higher  than  it  had  been  any 
part  of  the  day  ;  and  in  an  indant  the  flames  per- 
vaded the  whole  pile,  and  it  burnt  with  great  fury. 
I  liftened  a  few  feconds,  but  could  not  didinguifh 
any  fhmks,  which  might  perhaps  be  owing  to  my 
being  then  to  windward.  In  a  very  few  minutes, 
the  pile  became  a  heap  of  afhes. 

<;   During  the  whole  time  of  this  procefs,  which 

laded  from  tivk  10  lift  above  two   hours  before    we 

loft   fight   of  the    woman   by   her  being  built  up  iu 

the  middle  of  the  pile.    I  kept  my  eyes  almod  con'- 

flantiy    upon    her  ;  and  I   declare    to   God   that    I 

could    nor  perceive,  either    in   her  countenance  or 

limbs,   the  lead  trace  of  either  ho: ror.  fear,  or  even 

hefuauon  :    hei    countenance    was    perfectly    corn  • 

poitd  and  clacid;   and  (he  was   not,    1  am   pofitive, 

either    intoxicated  or  dupihed.      From  ieverai  cir- 

cmnuances,   1    thought  the  Bramins  exulted  in  this 

heinih    iacuHce,   and   did   not  ieein  at  all  diipiealed 

Europeans  fho'uld  be  wimeiTesof  ;<\" 

I'  10m   I  ai  jore  I  proceeded  to  Negapatnam,  which 

u- en  uken  from  the  Dutch  by  the   Company's 

>ps,  and   where    Mr.   tocHRAN,«aii  old  friend 
ot  mine,   was  C^liief. 

I  i  2 


3J$     CHARACTER  OF  TIPPOO  SAHIB. 

The  commanication  by  land  between  Negapat- 
nam  and  Madras  being  interrupted  by  the  enemy's 
troops,  I  embarked  in  a  veflfel,  and  proceeded  thi- 
ther by  Tea — Major  Johnston,  of  the  Engineers, 
being  alio  a  paiienger. 


LETTER     LXI. 


H 


ITHERTO  every  ftep  of  my  journey 
has  been  maiked  by  occurrences  lo  unexpected,  and 
accidents  fo  extraordinary,  that  I  fhould  feel  fome 
repugnance  to  relate  fhem,  left:  my  veraciiy  fhould 
be  called  in  queftion,  were  they  not  attefteti  by  To 
many  living  perfons  of  refpec"taKil;'y,  and  by  writ- 
ten documents  of  authority  on  record.  Were  one 
to  confider  them  merely  as  the  offspring  of  ficYion, 
they  would  perhaps  have  intereft  enough  to  catch 
the  attention ;  but,  viewing  them  as  fa&s,  they 
borrow,  from  their  number  and  rapid  luccellion.  as 
well  as  from  their  Angularity,  fo  much  of  the  com- 
plexion of  imaginary  adventure,  that  the  combina- 
tion cannot,  I  think,  fail  to  intereft  your  mind  as 
well  as  vour  feelings. 

Arrived  at  Negapatnam.  within  a  fhort  run  of 
Madras,  it  is  natural  for  you  to  fuppofe  that  adven- 
ture was  at  an  end,  and  that  fortune,  fatigued  by 
the  incelTint  exenion  of  her  caprice,  might  Kave 
left  me  to  ' proceed  the  fhort  refidue  of  my  way 
without  further  mole  fir.  ion.  It  fell  out  otKer- 
wile  :  (he  had  ma'ked  me  as  her  game,  and  rclolved 
to  worry  me  to  ;he  ljft:  moment  ;  for,  es 
proache  i  Madras,  'vve  were  c:ia(cd  by  a  Firenc  .  iti- 
aod  '.aken  r.eat  Fort  St.  G.-oigc. 
This  j.)u_m  ed  to  me  the  greater);  misfortune  I 
had    yet   met   with,   and    likely   lo  be  the  m*ft  fa|ai 


i 


CHARACTER  OF  TIPPOO  SAHIB.     tf§ 

in  its  confequences.  In  order  to  explain  this,  I 
muft  recur  to  certain  circumstances,  which  though 
I  was  informed  of  them  fince  my  releafe  from  Hy- 
dcrnagur,  I  did  not  relate  to  you,  becaufe  they  were 
no  way  connected  with  my  narrative  till  now. 

Monficur  Suffrein,  the  French  Admiral,  hav- 
ing a  number  of  Britifh  prifoners  in  his  poffeflion, 
whom  he  found  it  extremely  inconvenient  to  iup- 
port,  made  a  propofal  for  an  exchange — which, 
from  fome  failure  in  the  conveyance,  or  ambi- 
guity in  the  terms  ©f  the  correfpondence,  was 
negle£ted. 

The  motives  or  accidents  which  gave  rife  to  this 
neglect  have  never  been  completely  developed  ; 
and  perhaps  the  Admiral  himfelf,  Sir  Edward 
Hushes,  and  Lord  Macartney,  were  the  only 
perfons  who  knew  the  bottom  ©f  that  tranfacYion, 
Jn  luch  cafes,  however,  the  ignorance  of  fa6fc  is 
generally  fupplied  by  conjecture;  and  men  have 
prelumed  to  cenfure  unequivocally  on  the  mere 
hypothetical  fuggeftions  of  their  own  imaginations,. 
Candour,  however,  in  fuch  a  caie,  where  it  could 
not  fpeak  with  certainty,  would  (peak  with  cau- 
tion. An  Historian,  particularly,  mould  fleer  clear 
of  party  rancour,  and  not  fuffer  the  prejudice  or 
malignity  which  milled  himfelf,  to  go  down  to  and 
mi  (lead  pofterity.  Where  pofitive  proof  is  want- 
ing, if  we  are  obliged  to  decide,  we  muft  judge 
by  analogy  and  inference  ;  and  in  the  caie  now  be- 
fore us,  we  have  little  but  the  characters  of  the 
pei  Ions  concerned  to  guide  us  in  our  aecilion. 

Of  the  horrid  cataftrophe  which  fucceeded  the 
neglect  oi  exchanging  prifoners,  it  is  hard, 
bie  ih-tt  any  one  but  Moniieur  Suffrein  hinnelf 
could  have  had  a^  conception.  To  fuppofe,  thar, 
under  fuch  an  irnpreition,  our  leading  men  would 
have  heimted  to  prevent  it,   would    bs  to*   fuj  i 

their  intellects  w;ak,  and  their  hearts  corrupt  and 
inhurran.     I  fancy   it  will  be  ciiiEcuU  to  Uiizn  oa 


580     CHARACTER  OF  T1PPOO  SAHIB. 

Lord  Macartney  either  the  one  or  the  other  ; 
for  he  was  wile  and  humane  :  thole  whom  the  dif- 
appointment  of  unreafonable  expectations,  or  the 
malevolence  of  party,  have  induced  to  fujpe&  his 
Lorufhip's  heart,  have  been  forced  by  his  conduct 
to  revere  his  talents  ;  and  the  breath  of  calumny 
has  never  touched  the  humanity  of  Sir  Ildw'.ud 
Hughes.  Whatever  their  motives,  therefore,  may 
have  been — reaion,  conitience,  and  candour,  muft 
acquit  them  of  the  conk  quences.  It  fhould  be 
recollected,  too,  that  Monheur  Sc  ff  r  e  in's  cha- 
racter was  a  very  probable  fecurity,  in  the  mind  of 
men  of  lenie  and  honour,  again  ft  any  act  of  horrid 
inhumanity  :  his  conduct  as  an  officer  had  made  a 
new  sera  in  the  Naval  Hiliory  of  Fiance  :  his  ta- 
lents and  couiage  might  be  compared,  without  cm- 
advantage,  to  tiio.e  of  the  belt  of  *ur  Britiih  Ad- 
mirals  ;  and  he  had  exhibited  marks  of  uncommon 
generality  to  thoie  whom  the  chance  of  war  had 
thrown  into  his  hands*  It  would  therefoie  have 
been  fomethipg  more  than  pielcience  to  have  pre- 
foppofed  what  actually  happened  ;  and  I  dvcUie 
moil  iolemnly,  that  the  inference  I  ciaw  from  the 
whole    in  fot  matron    I  have  had    on    the    fubj.ct  is, 

.   calamitous  though  the   event  was,   it  at:, 
no  poutive  g'-uit  on  any  of  the    parties  couceined.. 
The  facr.  is  plainly  this  :    The  French  Admiral  ha- 
ving no  place  on  the  coail  where   he    could  fecuf.c 
hij>  pnioncis,     and  grieving,     as    he  fmnleif   iublc- 

uly  wrote  to  Mr.  Hastings,,  to  iee  the  un- 
happy men,  who  nad  been  fix  01  leven  months  at 
lea,   dying  of  the  icuryy,    delivered  over    the    p;i- 

rs,  to  the  number  of  above  three  hundred,  10 
Hyder.  T:  afterwards  was  fwch  as  11  would 

ow   up  youi  loui  ,0  hear  related. 

!    the    cncumlUnces  into  one 

ce,  and  iee    v.T.at  my  feelings    lr.utt  nave  been 
.  more  a  p:  iioner.      fci> 

ALU,  WilO    . 


CHARACTER  OF  TIPPOO  SAHIB.     38 1 

pots  of  the  European  world,  a  monfler,  mull  yet  be 
confidered,  when  put  in  compariion,  with  his  luc- 
ceflbr  Tippoo,  mild  and  merciful.  Hyder,  from 
policy  and  hypocrify,  {hewed  fome  lenity  to  the 
prifoners  who  fell  into  his  hands.  Inftancesare 
known  where  Britifh  captives  have  broke  through 
the  crowd  that  iurrounded  him  into  his  pretence 
for  proteft'on — when  he  has  hypocritically  feigned 
anger,  threatened  the  perfons  who  had  treated  them 
ill,  reprobated  feverity,  and  fent  them  off  fatisfied 
for  the  prefent.  Tippoo,  on  the  contrary,  was 
fo  perfectly  lavage,  that  cruelty  fcemed  to  be,  not 
ouly  the  internal  habit  of  his  foul,  but  the  guide  of 
all  his  actions,  the  moving  principle  of  his  policy, 
the  rule  of  his  public  conduct,  and  the  lource  of 
his  private  gratification.  Like  the  tyger  which, 
Buffon  tells  us,  kills  the  whole  flock  before  he 
begins  to  feed,  every  appetite  of  his  yielded  to  the 
more  urgent  calls  of  barbarity  ;  and  while  one  drop 
blood  of  remained  unfpilled,  one  agony  uninfl  cled, 
one  tear  unified,  the  natural  appetites  of  Ti p poo 
itood  fufpended,  and  the  luxuries  of  life  courted 
his  enjoyment  in  vain.  Like  the  hyena  which 
Thompson  calls  the  felled  of  the  fell,  the  fury  of 
his  nature  was  neither  to  be  controuled  by  refin- 
ance, nor  alTuaged  by  blandiihments.  Aloof  from 
the  general  order  of  the  workings  of  Providence, 
he  (lands  a  (ingle  inftance,  in  which  the  Omnipo- 
tent has  prelented  a  glowing  living  p:&ure,  all 
shade  :  not  one  ray  breaks  in,  to  relieve  the  gio- 
my  alpeclof  the  piece  ;  but,  diftincl  from  the  whole 
human  race,  of  him  alone  it  may  be  laid,  that  he 
never  yet  dilcloied,  even  for  a  moment,  one  lpaik 
of  virtue. 

From  barbarity  fo  inflexible  to  thofe  taken  in  the 
ordinary  chance  of  war,  what  could  1  expeclifX 
iell  again  into  his  hands — I  who  had  been  the  in- 
strument of  one  of  his  chief  Governor's  defection 
— who    had,  by   my  negeciations,    contnbuted    to 


3S2    "CHARACTER  OF  T1PPOO  SAHIB; 

deprive  him  of  a  Province,  and,  what  perhaps  might 
have  had  greater  weight  with  him,  robbed  him  of 
the  gratification  of  a  long  harboured  revenge,  by 
putting  his  enemy  Hyat  Sahib  under  the  protec- 
tion of  the  Company  ?  Diabolical  vengeance  never 
perhaps  met  with  a  (ubjeCr.  of  l'uch  fublime  enjoy- 
ment, as  the  torturing  of  me  would  have  been  to 
this  monffeer.  Couple  this  then,  my  Frederic 
W-ilfi  the  fears  of  Suff  rein's  doing  by  me  as  he 
hari  aheadv  done  by  the  o:her  Englifh  prifoners — 
and  gue.'s  what  my  terror  and  consternation  muil 
have  been  at  falling  into  the  hands  of  the  French  ! 

Having  (truck  oar  colours  to  the  French  frigate, 
the  Captain  ordeied  us  to  follow  her,  and  (leered 
to  the  northward.  We  obeyed  him  for  ioir^  time  : 
at  length  night  fell  ;  and,  a  fteih  and  favourable 
breez-2  fortunately  aiding  the  attesapt,  we  put 
sbour,  ran  for  Madras,  and  luckily  dropt anchor 
fafely  in  the  roads.  In  the  efcapes  I  had  hitherto- 
had,  there  was  always  ionie  difagteeable  c:rcum- 
ftance*  to  alloy  the  pleature  arrfing  f.em  them — In 
this  inilance,  my  joy  was  pure  and  unqualified  ; 
and  I  looked  forward  with  a  leafonjable  hope- that 
the  word  was  all  over. 

Here  I  found  Lord  Macartney  governor, 
firuggling  to  lupport  the  credit  oi  the  Compan  . 
and  dirc&tng  then  affairs  through  fuch  embarrarT- 
ments  and  difficulties  as  made  liie  mod  wire  and 
temperate  despair  of  iucccris.  So  arduous  an  un- 
dertaking as  the  g  t»ent  of  Madras  then  was, 
has  rarely  occurred  :  and  a  more.fuccelsful  final  ac- 
compli fhment  is  not  to  be  in  (lanced.  In  the  in- 
ceilmL  coniricis  to  which  he  was  expoied,  he  main- 
tained his  pod  with  inflexible  firmnc  una  .:- 
ted  energy  of  mind — and.  in  the  moit  trying  crr- 
Cuihftances,  dilcharged  his  impoitant  duty  with  zeal, 
integrity  and  wifdom.  The  it  net  difcharge  of  the 
duty  lie  owed  to  his  country,  railed  ciamours^agah 
bij^    among    an  inteieited  few    in   India  j  but  the 


PASSAGE  TO  BENGAL.  3S3 

united  applau-fes  of  ail  parties,  on  his  return  to 
-England,  it  imped  currency  on  his  fame,  and  has 
-broken  the  fnafts  of  detraction. 


LETTER    LXII. 


A: 


FTER.  fo  many  h^z^rds    and  hard 
a;  I  had  undergone,   it  was  a  rnoft    pie.  fl-ct.- 

ion  to  find  mylelf  in  a  fociety  compofed  of  my  oid- 
efl;  profcfiional  connections,  and  warmed  and  fin- 
cereft  friends  :  but  this  was  ahappineis  I  could  not 
Jong  enjoy  ;  for,  being  charged  wirh  a  million  from 
Hy^t  Sahib  to  the  Governor- General  and  Su- 
preme Council,  I  was  con  drained  to  proceed  to 
Bengal,  and  accordingly  let  fail,  for  Calcu:ts, 
which  I  reached  in  little  more  than  a  week,  with- 
out encountering  any  accident,  or  meeting  a  fi 
occurence,  worth  the  relation.  Upon  my  arrival 
there,  Sir  John  Mac  rn  1:  rsom.  who  was  in  the 
Supreme  Council,  gave  me  a  kind  invitation  to  live 
at  his  houfe,  and  prefentcd  rne  to  Mr.  Hastings, 
with  whom  I  entered  into  a  negociarion  on  behalf 
of  Hyat  Sahib,  which  will  appear  by  the  fol- 
lowing letteis  : 

LETTER     TO     WARREN     HASTINGS,     ESC, 

"  Calcutta,   May  3,    r 7 8 .3 . 

"HONOURABLE    SIR, 

<{  I  fttion  has  put  it  out  of  my  power,  fince 

*{  the    fiift    dav  after  my  arrival   here,   to  have  the 
<;  hbnout  of  paving  you  my  leip'-cti,  and  of  la] 
"  before  you,   for  the  infcima  ion  oi  the  board,  tiie 
"  objeQs  of  my  mifiiuii  to  your  fuperin tending  ^o- 
"  vcriiiucnt. 


384 


PASSAGE  TO  BENGAL. 


"  As  thefe  objects  are  of  public  importance,  and 
<l  as  ill  health  may  prevent  me,  for  lome  time  lon- 
"  ger  from  havir;g  the  honour  of  waiting  upon 
"  you,  I  take  the  liberty  to  beg  youi  attention  to 
**  this  addrefs. 

"  Tre  great  revolution  in  favour  of  the.  India 
C£  Company  upon  B  welt  fine  of  India,  and  to 
"  wh  ch  I  i-'u  the  apptnefs  or  being  in  lome  little 
u  degree  in  flit-mental,  has  been  certainly  brought 
"  about  by  tic  zeal  and  ipirit  of  General  Mat- 
"  thews  ;  but  that  officer  afcribes  to  the  orders 
'•  2  d  fupplies  of  your  government  the  principal 
"  merit  of  the  undertaking  :  he  lo->ks  to  the  lame 
"  government  for  fupport  in  the  arrangement  which 
*;  he  has  made,  and  may  make,  for  the  lecurity  of 
"  the  conquered  province. 

**  The  hurry  in  which  I  left  him,  and  his  anxicv 
"  ty  for  my  fpeedy  communication  of  his  fuccelT.-s, 
';  e^ve  no  time  for  a  formal  communication  to  the 
"  Governor-General  and  cooncil,  of  the  particu- 
"  Jars  of  his  lucccHes,  aq^  of  the  arrangements 
"  which  he  wiihed  to  be  adopted.  He  w*ote  a 
'*  fhort  account  of  the  fir  ft  to  the  Prefidencv  of 
';  Fort  St.  George  ;  and  gave  me  a  public  letter 
*J  to  the  Commander  in  Chief  of  the  Military 
"  Efn.bUfhment  of  that  Prefidencv  to  which  I  par- 
,{  ticularly  belong,  in  atleftation  of  the  iei vices  I 
c;  rendered  in  the  negociation  between  him  and  the 
"  Governor  of  Bioanore,  for  the  lurrendtr  of  that 
"  capital  and  province.  A  copy  of  that  letter  1 
"   have  the  plealure  to  lay  before  ycu. 

{;  As  I  was  charged  with  a  particular  commilTion 
"  from  Hyat  Sahib,  the  manager  of  the  Buian*  re 
11  province,  to  the  Governor-Geneial  and  council, 
"  2*  appears  by  his  letter,  which  I  had  the  honour 
<{  of  prelenting  to  you,  General  Mathews  gave 
"  ire,  in  verbal  infliuct'.ons,  and  memorandums 
*:  written  in  his  own  hand,  the  particulars  of  what 
Li  he  wifhed  me  to  lepreknt  to  your  Govenimeni : 


TASSAGE  TO  BENGAL.  385 

he  gave  me,  befides,  fhort  notes  of  introduction 
to  two  of  the  members  of  Government,  whom 
he  knew  perfonally — referring  them  to  me  for 
an  account  of  his  fituation,  and  allowing  me,  I 
believe,  more  credit  than  I  deferve,  for  the 
(hare  I  had  in  contributing  to  his  final  acquifi- 
'  tion  of  Bidanore  without  drawing  a  (word. 

*;  It   would    be   tedious,  and  more  fit  for  the  de- 
:  tail   of  converfation  than  of  a  public  addrefs,   to 
;  inform    you   of  the   various    fteps  that  led  to  the 
;  furrender   of  the   capital   and   province  of  Bida- 
1  nore.      I  had  had  feveral  conferences  with  Hyat 
1  Sahib  before  Ryder's  death,  and  endeavoured 
'•  to    uiggeft   to  him   the   advantage   which    would 
:  ari'e  to  him  from  a  revolt  in  favour  of  the  Com- 
;  pany.     My    efforts  in  thefe  conventions  ended 
;  ultimately  in  themoft  rigorous  diftrefs  to  myfelf: 
;  I    was  put    in    irons,   and   remained    fo    for   four 
;  months,    in  a  fituation  only  of  exigence  without 
;  any    hopes    of    ever   efcaping.      When    General 
;  Mathews  had  ftortoed  the  Ghauts,    Hf  at    Sa- 
hib lent  for  me,  and,  after  various  ftruggles,  and 
much  indecifion,  agreed  to  my  proceeding  to  the 
EngHfti   camp  ;   and   I   conducted    General    Ma- 
1  thews,  almoft  unattended,  into  Bidanore.     Hy- 
;  at  Sahib  at  length  agreed  to  fubmit  :   but  as,  in 
His  various  converlations  with    me  befora  and  af- 
ter that  event,   he  made  a  very  particular  diftinc- 
tion    between    the   government    of  Bombay    and 
the    chief  government    of  the   Englilh  in  Indof- 
lan,   fo    he    propofed    that    I    fhould   immediately 
depart,   after    he    had  given   up  the  place  and  all 
the  forts  of  the   Province,   with  a  letter    to   yen, 
to  obtain  vour  lar.&ion  to  me  to  his  arrangements 
with  the  Englifh  General. 

"  Thete  anangements  were  not  even  cleaily  de- 
fined   before    my   departure;   and  !o  anxious  was 
he  for  my  ipeedy  arrival  at  Calcutta,  that  he  only 
Kk 


386  PASSAGE  TO  BENGAL- 

'*  gave  rr.c  the  general  propofitions  that  are  con- 
•4  lained  in  his  letter. 

44  Permit  me  here  to  obferve,  that  it  is  by  the 
"  treatnient  which  Hyat  Sahjb  meets  with,  that 
44  the  other  chiefs  of  Hyder'.s  country  will  efti- 
44  mate  the  advantage  of  abandoning  the  interefts  of 
"Tippoo  Sahib,  or  will  confirm  their  depen- 
44  dence  upon  him.  Tippoo  was  prevented  by 
44  his  father  from  all  intercourfe  with  the  Gover- 
44  nors  of  his  provinces,  or  any  interference  in 
11  country  affairs  ;  fo  that  thofe  left  in  charge  at  his 
44  father's  death  are  ftranger's  to  him,  and  are  men 
M  to  whom  he  has  little  attachment.  He  is,  be- 
44  fides,  eonfidered  to  be  of  a  cruel  dilpofition, 
"  His  father  was  cruel  upon  a  political  principle  : 
11  he  is  thought  to  be  fo  from  nature. 

"  The  unfortunate  differences  about  money  which 
"  arofe  in  General  Mathews's  camp,  and  of 
44  which  you  will  probably  hear  from  the  Preli- 
"dency  of  Bombay,  took  up  much  of  the  Gene- 
"  ral's  time,  and  may  have  retarded  his  operations; 
44  however,  his  iuccefs  in  the  reduction  of  Manga- 
"  lore  gives  a  fecurity  to  his  con  quells.  The  reve- 
44  nues  of  the  Bidanoie  Province  are  about  twenty 
44  lacks  of  pagodas  per  annum. 

*'  The  paiticular  fituation  of  the  capital  merit* 
"  attention.  It  is  placed  in  a  valley  of  confidera- 
44  blc  extent  in  circumfeience  :  according  to  the 
44  be  ft  oblervation  I  could  nnke,  there  is  an  afcent 
44  to  it,  from  all  fides,  of  near  leven  miles:  it  can 
44  only  be  approached  by  four  roads,  which  are  cut 
u  among  the  hills,  and  which  were  judicioufly  for- 
44  tified  with  great  pains  by  Hyder  :  woods,  fo 
41  the  depth  of  many  miles,  are  a  frontier  round 
44  its  fkirts  ;  and  where  thefe  admitted  a  paflage, 
44  Hyder  took  the  precaution  to  plant  bamboos 
44  and  thorns — fo  that  I  have  little  fear  but  that 
44 General  Mathews  will  be  able  to  defend  theie 
44pa(Tes;  and  as  for  provifians,  and  military  (tores 


PASSAGE  TO  BENGAL.  ^7 

u  of  all  kinds,  that  were  found  in  Bidanore,  of 
u  the  latter  particularly,  what,  according  to  Gene- 
•*  ral  Mathews's  own  declaration,  would  equip 
ct  nine  fuch  arrm'es  as  his. 

°  Cundapore  is  the  next  fea-port  to  Bidanore, 
4i  and  is  diflant  about  fifty  miles  :  Mangalore  is 
t;  diflant  about  a  hundred  miles.  The  road  lead- 
ik  ing  from  Mangalore  joins  with  that  from  Cunda- 
4i  pore,  where  the  afcent  of  the  hills  commence  : 
"  another  road  from  Bidanore  leads  to  Seringipatam, 
'•  and  a  fourth  into  the  Marhatta  country. 

**  It  was  from  the  lower  country,  along  the  fea- 
ii  coaft,  between  Onore  and  Mangalore,  which  is 
4i  watered  by  many  rivers,  and  is  the  beft  cultivated 
M  country  I  ever  (aw,  that  Hyder  got  the  greatest 
14  part  of  his  provifions  for  his  army  in  the  Cirna- 
,J  tic  ;  and,  independent  of  the  advantages  which 
u  the  Company  have  gained  by  the  acquisition  of 
"  thefe  countries,  the  confequent  loites  of  the 
fi  Myforeans  are  immenfe,  and  fuch  as  will  difable 
4t  them  from  affifting  the  French  in  the  Carnatic. 

t;  It  becomes  not  an  officer  of  my  rank  to  make 
"  any  obfervations  that  relate  to  the  ccndu&  of  the 
*'  different  governments  of  my  employers;  but  I 
4i  am  obliged  to  obferve,  in  juftice  to  Hyat  Sa« 
•*  hib's  declaration  tome,  that  he  will  not  rely 
11  upon  any  arrangement  made  in  his  favour  by  the 
11  Governor  and  council  of  Bombay,  unlefs  he  has 
M  a  fpeedy  anfwer  to  his  letter  from  this  govern- 
*;  ment.  He  has  requefted  me  to  return  wiih  that 
*'  anfwer,  and  with  the  fan&ion  of  the  Governor- 
s*  General  to  the  cowl  given  to  him  by  General 
"  Mathews.  Though  I  am  worn  down  by  my 
<;  fufferings  in  prifon,  and  my  health  can  fcarcely 
<;  enable  me  to  be  carried  by  land,  I  am  ready  to 
M  undertake  this  fervice  ;  for  I  know  it  is  the 
44  greateft  I  may  ever  have  it  in  my  power  to  reu- 
•'  der  to  the  company  and  to  my   country. 

44  My  return  to  the  other  coaft  with  a  favour*. 
"  ble  anf'.ver  to  Hyat  Sahib,  will  be  the  fignal  ta 


^SS  PASSAGE  TO.  BENGAL. 


J 


. . 


(i 


"  other  Chiefs  to  throw  off  the  yoke  of  Tirroo  j 
'*  and  if  Colonel  Long  has  made  any  progreis  in 
*;  ihe  Coimbatore  country,  or  that  General  Ma- 
11  trews  has  not  been  too  feveiely  pieiTed  by. 
11  Tipfoo,  1  may  arrive  upon  the  other  coail  in 
"   tune  to  be  of  real  ufe  to  the  company. 

<;  I  know,  Honourable  Sir,  the  liberal  and  great 
,;  f.yflem  of  your  adminifltation  :  1  will  not,  there- 
fcJ  fore,  point  out  any  litile  circumflances  about  the 
li  fooling  upon  which  I  fhould  return  to  Hyatt 
"  Sahib,  or  remain  upon  the  other  coa ft.  1  wilTi 
»:  only  to  be  rewarded  by  my  employers  as  I  am 
t4  fuccefsful  ;  and  I  ihall  leave  it  to  your  goodnels, 
w  and  to  your  diftinguifhed  zeal  for  the  public  pro- 
"  priety,  (o  give  me  any  inftructions  for  my  con- 
"  c'uer,  or  to  charge  me  with  any  advices  to  Gen- 
eral Mathews,  as  you  may  think  proper. 
<;  I  hope  you  will  paidon  this  long  and  irregu- 
lar audrefs,  and  honour  me  by  communicating 
any  part  of  it  that  you  may  think  worthy  of 
**'  cornmunica-tion  to  the  gentlemen  of  the  council* 

*;  I  have  the  honour  to  be,  &c.  &c. 

*'  Donald  Campbell. :i 

M  p.  S.  When  you  are  at  leifure,  and  I  am  able 
1  to  have  the  honour  of  attending  you,  I  would 
1  wifh  to  communicate  to  you  a  more  particular 
'  detail  of  my  converfaiion  with  Hyat  Sak'I3  — 
'  whft  General  Mathews's  liopes  of  iupport 
;  from  this  government  were,  and  the  future  plans 
;  he  then  meditated — and  my  ideas  of  the  mea- 
;  fures  that  fhouid  be  purfued  by  the  Fielicency 
•  of  Fort  S'.  George,  to  fupport  Geneial  I 
1  thews,  and  improve  the  advantages  he  has 
;  gained. 

<:    To  IVarren  Hajlings,  Efq. 
Governor-General  of  Bengal" 


PASSAGE  TO  BENGAL.  389 

LETTER.      JROM     HYAT    SAHIB,    ALLUDED    TO 
IN     THE    FOREGOING. 

(UJual  Introdutlion.J 

"  I  have  directed  the  affairs  of  the  Soobeh  of 
c;  Hydernagur  for  fome  years  pad,  on  the  part  of 
"  the  Navvaub  Hyder.  When  lately  attacked 
"  by  the  victorious  forces  of  the  Englifh  under  the 
M  command  of  General  Mathews,  I  oppofed  him, 
«'  and  fulfilled  my  duty  in  every  refpect  :  but  fec- 
"  ing  the  fuperior  fortune  and  force  of  the  En- 
"  glim,  and  receiving  propofals  for  peace  from 
<!  General  Mathews,  by  thefe  circumftances,  but 
t{  more  efpecially  by  the  perfuafions  of  Captain 
*J  Campbell,  the  fon  of  Colonel  Campbell, 
(i  who  was  formerly  at  Chinaputtan,  I  was  indu- 
<:  ced  to  come  to  terms,  and  delivered  up  to  Gen- 
i;  eral  Mathews  the  treafury,  property,  Mores 
il  and  keys  of  the  forts  of  this  country.  If  I  had 
11  been  difpofed,  I  had  it  in  my  power  to  have  ap- 
"  propriated  this  collected  wealth  to  other  purpo- 
il  fes  ;  but,  from  a  regard  to  the  high  fortune  of 
"  the  King  of  England,  and  the  uprSghtnefs 
*'  and  integrity  of  the  Englifh  people,  I  have  in- 
"  eluded  myfelf  in  the  number  of  your  fervants, 
t;  and  have  determined,  with  the  utmoft  fincerity 
"  and  purity  of  heart,  to  ferve  you  well  and  faith- 
li  fully.  By  the  blefiing  of  God,  under  your 
"  aufpices,  my  endeavours  towards  the  well  and 
"  full  performance  of  my  duty  (hall  be  ten-fold 
"  greater  than  heretofore  ;  and  as  General  Ma- 
•;  thews  intends  to  proceed  to  Seringputtam, 
your  loyal  fervant  will  aflift,  to  the  utmoft  of 
his  ability  and  power.  You  will  be  Fully  infor- 
med on  this  fubjret  by  Captain  Campbell. 
Honour,  and  favour,  and  reward,  rnuft  flow 
**   from  you. 

"  From  the  time  of  your  firft  eftabliihment  in  this 
"  country  to  the  p?erent  period,  the  engagements  *f 

K  k  2 


yjo  PASSAGE  TO  BENGAL. 

"  the  Englifh  have  been  facredly  performed  and  ad- 
"  hercd  to  ;  nor  have  they  been  wanting  in  their 
*;  protection  of  the  honor  and  dignity  of  the  Sur- 
11  dars  of  Bengal,  and  other  places.  I  hope,  from 
Ct  your  favour  and  benevolence,  that  you  will  ifTue 
"  your  commands  to  General  Mathews,  to  favour 
"  me  with  ail  due  kindnefs  and  attention.  I  have 
"  taken  fheker  under  the  fhadow  of  your  benevo- 
41  lence.  Captain  Campbell  lias  fhewn  me  great 
*'  kindnefs  in  this  relpect.,  and,  by  encouraging  me 
*J  to  hope  for  your  favour,  has  led  me  to  become 
"  your  fervant.  You  will  be  fully  informed  of  the 
11  {late  of  affairs  in  this  quarter  by  Captain  Camb- 
11  bell'i  letters. 

li  Written  on  the  25th  of  SufTur,  A.  H.  1197." 
14  A  true  copy, 

"  J.  P.  Auriol,  SH." 

LETTER    TO    WARREN    HASTINGS,    ESQ. 

"  Calcutta j  May  25,   1783. 

14  Honourable  Sir, 
11  Some  time  ago,    I    did    myfelf  the  honour  of 

•*  writing  to  you,  on  the  fubjeft  of  my  million 
11  from  Hyat  Sahib  to  this  government. 

u  It  is  with  pleaiure  I  now  underftand  that  you 
;f  have  come  to  the  refolutionof  lending  an  anfwer 

to  His  letter.  I  cannot  help  delivering  it  as  my 
"  opinion,  that  a  decided  and  avowed  protect-ion 
i;  granted  to  him  from  this  government,  will  be 
t;  productive  of  great  public  utility  :  but  fhould 
k:  you,  and  the  other  gentlemen  of  the  council, 
*•'  think  proper  to  decline  this,  from  motives  beft 
11  known  to  yourfelves,  and  of  which  I  fhall  not 
,:  pretend  to  judge,  1  beg  leave  humbly  to  repre- 
■'  tent,  that  the  fooner  Hyat  Sahib's  letter  is 
*•  acknowledged,  the  more  iatisfa&ory  it  .will  be  lo 


B^SSAGE  TO  BENGAL.  391 

u  him,  and  the   more  efficacious    in    its   probable 
"  good  confequences.*^ 

"  I  am  ready  and  anxious  to  proceed  immediate-r 
u  ly  to  the  other  coaft  with  the  anfvver  to  Hyat 
"  Sahib,  and  fhall  take  the  liberty  of  hoping  that 
"  you  will  give  me  inftructions  to  remain  iome 
Ci  time  with  him,  that  he  may  have  an  opportunity 
<:  of  tranfmiuing,  through  me,  any  communication 
"  that  he  may  wilh  to  cftablifh  with  this  govern- 
"  ment.  1  have  the  pleafure  to  inform  you,  that 
u  that  Prefidency  to  which  I  particularly  belong, 
{i  have  granted  me  their  conlent  to  be  employed  in 
i;  the  final  arrangement  of  the  Bidanore  treaty, 
u  fhould  your  board  think  proper  to  choofe  me  as 
<{  a  fit  perfon  ;  and  they  have  further  unanimoufly 
"  done  me  the  honour  to  approve  of  my  conduct 
*{  in  the  commencement  of  this  bufinefs- 

"  With  refpeft  to  the  appointments  you  may 
il  judge  right  to  allow  me,  I  trufl  entirely  to  your 
M  own  ideas  of  propriety.  I  wifh  for  nothing  more 
<{  than  what  is  fufHcient  to  defray  the  expences  of 
**  fuch  a  journey,  and  to  enable  me  to  maintain 
"  that  character  in  a  fituation  of  this  kind  which  is 
••  requifite  to  promote  the  public  good. 
"  I  have  the  honour  to  be,  with  the  greateft  refpect, 
u  Honourable  Sir, 

11  Your  moft  faithful  and  mod  obedient  fervant, 

"   Donald  Campbell/* 

After  fome  delay,  I  received  inflru&ions,  toge- 
ther with  a  letter  from  Mr.  Hastings  for  Hyat, 
with  which  I  fet  off  in  order  to  deliver  it  into  his 
own  hands,  as  follows  : 

letter  to  captain  donald  campbell, 

"   Sir, 
<;  I  have  it   in    command   from   the  Honourable 
*  the    Governor-General  and   council,  to  uanfmit 


392  PASSAGE  TO  BENGAL. 

*c  you  the  inclofed  anfwer^  from  the  Gevernor- 
"  General  to  the  letter  v4lich  you  brought  from 
ii  Hyat  Sahib,  the  Fouldar  of  Bidanore,  to  this 
6i  government,  upon  the  occafion  of  his  furrender- 
*;  ing  that  country  to  the  company.  As  you  pro- 
"  pole  to  return  to  Bidanore,  the  Bo3id  requeft 
M  that  you  will  deliver  this  anfwer  in  perfon  to 
(i  Hyat  Sahib,  with  the  affurances  from  them  of 
u  every  protection  and  fupport  which  the  eminent 
"  fervices  rendered  by  him  to  the  company  give 
"  him  fo  good  a  right  to  expect.,  and  which  they 
"  have  it  in  their  power  to  grant  ;  and  you  will 
*'  acquaint  him,  that  they  have  further  agreed  to 
6i  recommend  him  in  fuch  terms  to  the  Honoura- 
81  ble  the  Court  of  Directors,  as  may  encourage 
4i  him  to  hope  for  every  attention  from  their 
"  juftice. 

"  Confidering  the  great  importance  of  the  ac- 
H  quilition  of  Bidanore  to  the  company,  its  piopor- 
"  tionable  difadvantage  to  the  enemy,  and  the 
if  magnitude  of  the  objtct.  to  be  obtained  by  ho!d- 
"  ing  out  every  pofiible  incitement  and  encourage- 
"  ment  to  the  Managers  of  the  My  lore  country,  to 
*'  throw  off  a  new  and  unfettled  dependence  on 
kt  the  enemy's  government,  in  order  to  obtain  a 
11  more  fecure  and  beneficial  tenure  from  the  com- 
u  pany's  poffeflion,  the  Board  are  the  more  readi- 
u.  ly  inclined  to  afford  this  early  return  to  the  ad- 
"  vances  of  Hyat  Sahib,  in  the  hope  that  it  will 
u  infpire  him  with  freih  confidence  in  the  Englifh 
M  government,  and  rivet  his  attachment  to  it. 

"  It  will  be  at  your  option,  either  to  return  im~ 
"  mediately  with  Hyat  Sahib's  anfwer  to  the 
M  Governor-General's  letter,  if  you  (hall  deem  it 
M  of  fufficient  confequence  to  require  it,  or  to  re- 
11  main  with  him,  if  you  conceive  that  your  refi- 
"  dence  there  for  any  time  will  be  more  conducive 
44  to  the  public  interefts  ;  but,  in  either  cafe,  you 
«'  are  dc fired  to  report  the  particulars  of  your  rq- 


PASSAGE  TO  BENGAL.  393 

it%  ception    and    proceedings    to    this   government, 
"  with  any  other intomiation  which  you  may  think 
i;  it  ufeful  for  them  to  know. 
■    %    • 

"  I  am,   Sir, 
"  Your  moti  obedknt,  humble  fervant, 

•«  J.  F.  Auk  jo  l,  Sa." 
*f   Fort  William,    May  29,    1783." 

It  would  be  unpardonable  in  me  to  let  this  occa- 
fion  pals,  without  exprelTmg  the  high  fenfe  I  en- 
tettain  of  Mr.  Hastings's  politenefs,  and  Sjr 
John  Macpherson'j  kindnefs  and  hofpitaliiy, 
during  my  ftay  at  Calcutta.  As  to  Mr.  Hastings,- 
in  his  public  capacity,  it  would  be  pi^fumptuous 
and  injudicious  to  fay  much,  as  he  now  -frauds  for 
the  judgment  of  the  highefl  tribunal  in  this  coun* 
try.  My  own  obfervation  leads  me  to  confider 
him  as  a  man  of  found,  acute  and  brilliant  taints, 
and  of  a  vafi  and  comprehenfivc  mind — of  manners 
fociable,  amiable,  meek  and  unaffected — and  of  a 
difpofition  truly  benevolent.  His  fuperior  know- 
ledge of  the  political  intercfts  of  Indoftan,  and 
particularly  of  the  affairs  of  the  Eaft  India  compa- 
ny, has  never  been  queftioned  ;  and,  if  the  fuffrage 
of  the  people  of  India  may  be  allowed  to  decide, 
his  con  duel;  as  Governor-General,  though,  like 
every  thing  human,  intermixed  with  error,  was, 
on  the  whole,  great  and  laudable — for  I  declare  I 
Icarcely  ever  heard  a  man  in  India,  Native  or  Eu- 
ropean, cenfure  him,  although  he  was  often  the 
Jubjecl;  of  converfation  with  ail  perfons  and  in  all 
companies  in  the  Eaft, 

The  focial  virtues  of  Sir  John  Macphersom 
are  fo  well  known,  that  it  would  be  fuperfluous  to 
notice  them.  The  fame  friendfhip  and  hofpitality 
I  experienced  in  his  houfe,  has  been  fhared  by 
many,,  who  are  not  backward  in  doing  him  ample 
juftice  on  that  head.     But  his  conduct  during  U is 


394  PASSAGE  TO  BENGAL. 

fhort  adminiflration  can  be  known  only  by  thofe 
who  make  the  political  concerns  x>(  India  a  fubjec~i 
of  ftudious  attention.  To  en^er  into  a  detail  of 
his  various  wife  regulations  for  the  reftoraiion  of 
the  company's  affairs,  wou/d  be  deitruftive  of  the 
end  I  propofe,  which  is.  by  a  concife  and  fimple 
fummary  of  the  whole*  to  render  a  fair  pi&ure  of 
his  adminiflration  fo  clear  as  to  be  underflood  by 
any  perfon,  however  ignorant  he  may  be  of  the 
politics  of  that  country,  and  fo  brief  as  not  to  dif- 
courage  the  reading  of  it. 

Sir  John  Macphersqn  took  the  reins  of 
government  into  his  hands  on  the  firfl  of  February, 
1785.  He  found  the  company's  revenues  dimi- 
nifhed,  and  their  expenditure  increafed,  by  the 
continual  claims  of  Proprietors,  Directors,  and 
Minifies,  to  a  fhare  in  the  patronage  of  Mr. 
Hastings — and  a  public  debt  accumulating  to  art 
eno/mous  amount.  He  therefore  (aw  the  neceflity 
of  putting  in  practice  every  expedient  pofTible, 
md  trying  every  experiment  that  the  (late  of  the 
country  fuggefled,  as  likely  to  promote  an  increafe 
of  the  revenue,  a  diminution  of  the  public  expen- 
diture, and  a  liquidation  of  the  debt.  He,  there- 
fore, on  the  fourteenth  day  cf  his  adminiflration,- 
commenced  a  reform,  which  he  continued  with 
indefatigable  zeal  and  induflry  to  introduce  through 
the  various  departments  of  government — and,  be- 
ginning with  himfelf,  di!ch3rged  his  body-guards. 
\Vhiie  he  was  thus  employed  in  India,  the  Com- 
pany rnd  Parliament  in  England  were  unremit- 
tingly engaged  in  confiderng  and  molding  into 
fhape  a  fyflein  of  reform  alio;  and,  extraordinary 
as  it  may  appear,  the  fa£r  fc,  that  the  fagacity  of 
Mr.  Macpkerson  had  adopted  by  anticipation', 
and  actually  reduced  to  practice,  the  identical  fp«- 
culative  reforms  which  the  Parliament  and  Com- 
pany were  proceeding  upon  in  England  ;  and  the 
general   pfan  of  reform   which  palled  the  court  of 


PASSAGE  TO  BENGAL.  395 

dire&ors  on  the  eleventh  of  April,  1785,  had  been 
actually  carried  into  execution  by  Sir  John  Mac- 
jherson  in  Bengal,  in  the  months,  of  February, 
March  and  April,  1785.  He  made  arrangements 
for1  the  diff-fion  of  knowledge — eilabhfhcd  the 
fettlement  of  Pulo  Penang,  or  Prince  of  Wales's 
Ifland — fettled  the  bank  of  Calcutta  01  a  firm  bafis 
— regulated  the  maikets — and,  by  a  plan  of  his 
own   conception,   fecured    the    Company  n    the 

accuftomed  fraudulent  compositions  with  Zemin- 
dars, by  bonding  their  balances,  and  making  the 
bonds  cancelable  only  by  the  Court  of  Directors. 
In  fine,  he  introduced  and  carried  into  efTeft  a 
fyftern  of  reform  which  had  a  mod  fudden  and 
ialutary  efTecl:  on  the  Britifh  affairs  in  India;  and 
in  an  adminiflration  of  only  eighteen  months,  he 
had  the  felicity  to  perceive  the  fruits  of  his  wiH- 
dom  and  induftry  maturing — to  receive  that  befl:  of 
earthly  rewards,  the  efteem  and  applaufe  of  his 
fellow-citizens — and  to  be  honoured  by  the  bed  of 
Sovereigns  with  the  dignity  of  a  Baronet. 

While  I  was  at  Sir  John  Macpherson's  houfe, 
I  happened,  in  converfation  one  day  with  Mr, 
Macauly,  Sir  John's  Secretary,  to  be  talking 
over  fome  part  of  ray  adventures  ;  and  found  to 
my  aftonifhment,  that  he  had,  in  his  route  to  India, 
accidentally  hired  the  very  iervant  whom  1  had 
loft  at  Triefte  by  fending  him  for  letters  to  Ve- 
nice ;  and  Mr.  Macauly  allured  me,  that  he 
found  him  poffefled  of  all  the  good  qualities  I  had 
expected  to  meet  in  him  :  but  the  poor  fellow  had 
died  before  my  arrival  at  Calcutta,  to  my  great 
mortification  and  difappointment. 

As  the  feafon  in  which  I  was  to  leave  Calcutta 
was  very  unfavourable  for  a  voyage  by  lea,  and  the 
coaft  thereabouts  is  one  of  the  mod  inholpitable  in 
the  world,  I  fet  off  by  land  for  Madras,  and  in  my 
way  had  an  opportunity  of  furveying  that  curious 
and  grotefejue  monument  of  fuperftitieus  folly,  cal- 


395 


PASSAGE  TO  BENGAL. 


led  the  Jagranaut  Pagoda.  It  is  an  immenfc,  baf- 
"barous  ftruclure,  of  a  kind  of  pvramidal  form,  cm- 
bellifhed  with  devices  cut  in  flone-wotk,  not  more 
lingular  than  difgufting.  Chriftian  idolators,  in 
forming  types  and  figures  of  divine  beings,  always 
endeavour  to  reprelent  them  with  perfonal  beauty, 
as  proportionate  to  their  divine  nature  as  human 
fkill  can  make  it.  Thole  Pagans,  on  the  contrary, 
in  forming  their  idols,  cad  out  every  veftige  of 
beauty — every  thing  that,  by  the  content  of  man- 
kind, is  fuppofed  to  convey  pleanng  fenfations^ 
and,  in  their  place,  fubftitute  the  mofl  extravagant, 
unnatural  deformity,  the  mofl  loathfome  naftinefs, 
the  rroft  difgufting  obicenity.  It  is  not  in  lan- 
guage to  convey  an  adequate  idea  of  their  temples 
and  idols;  and  if  it  was,  no  purpofe  col' J  be  an- 
fwered  by  it,  only  the  excitement  of  painful  and 
abominable  fenfations.  To  keep  pace  with  the 
figures  of  their  idoU,  a  chief  Bramin,  by  fome 
accurfed  artificial  means,  (by  herbs,  Tbelieve),  has 
brought  to  a  mofl  unnatural  form,  and  enormous 
dimenfions,  tliat  which  decency  forbids  me  to 
mention  •,  and  the  pure  and  'potlefs  women,  who 
from  infancy  have  been  fhut  up  from  the  Tight  of 
men,  even  of  their  brothers,  are  brought  to  kifs 
this  difgufting  and  misfhapen  monfter,  under  the 
prepofterous  belief  that  it  promotes  fecundity. 

In  this  Pagoda  flands  the  figure  of  J.;granaut, 
(their  god  under  Brama)  ;  and  a  fightly  figure  it  is 
truly  ! — nothing  more  than  a  black  ftone,  in  an  ir- 
regular pyramidal  form,  having  two  rich  diamonds 
in  the  top  by  way  of  eyes,  and  a  nofe  and  mouth 
painted  red.  For  this  god,  five  hundred  priefls 
aie  daily  employed  in  boiling  food,  which,  as  he 
feldom  eats  it,  they  doubtlefs  convert  to  their  own 
u(e  in  the  evening. 

I  flopped  at  Vizagapatnam  ror  a  few  days  with 
Mr.  Russe  l,  who  was  chief  of  that  place.  His 
Ilyle    of  living  was  fo  exactly  (imilar  to   that  of  an 


CONCLUSION.  397 

elegant  family  rending  at  their  country-houfe  in 
England,  that  I  felt  inyfelf  more  happy  and  com- 
fortable than  I  had  been  fince  my  arrival  in  India  ; 
and  that  happinels  was  much  increafed  by  meeting 
Mr.  Maxtor,  who  was  married  to  Mr.  Russel's 
daughter.  This  gentleman  and  I  had,  when  mere 
boys,  been  fhipmates  on  our  firft  going  out  to  India  : 
a  warm  friendmip  took  place  between  us,  which 
has  met  with  no  interruption,  but  rather  increafed 
from  lapfe  of  time,  and  greater  habits  of  intimacy. 
To  fee  a  man  whom  I  fo  entirely  efteemed,  in 
pofTeffion  of  the  mod  perfect  domeftic  felicity,  and 
iurrounded  by  a  number  of  amiable  connections 
and  friends,  was  tome  a  fubjeci  of  the  mod  pleafing 
contemplation. 


LETTER     LXIII. 


L 


(EAVING  Vizagapatam,  I  took  my 
route  along  the  coaft,  and  arrived  at  Mafulipatam, 
where  I  heard  rumours  of  the  unfortunate  fate  of 
General  Mathews.  This  threw  fuch  a  damp 
upon  my  fpirits,  that  all  the  hofpitality  and  kind- 
nefs  of  Mr.  Daniel,  the  chief,  could  fcarcely  raifc 
me  from  defpcndence  ;  and  on  my  arrival  at  Ma- 
dras, I  found  the  whole  amply  confirmed. 

As  Hyat  Sahib's  affair  yet  remaining  unfet- 
tled,  and  I  confidered.myfelf  in  a  degree  pledged 
to  obtain  him  lome  fatisf?ftion  for  his  lervices  in 
furrendering  the  province  of  Bidanore,  and  to  ful- 
fil my  engagements  with  him  and  the  Supreme 
Council,  I  determined  to  proceed  to  Bombay,  not- 
withstanding the  difafter  of  General  Mathews, 
which  had  entirely  crufhed  all  my  private  profpe&s 
in  that  quarter,  and  to  co-operate  with  Hyat   Sa- 

LI 


398  CONCLUSION. 

HiB.in  fuch  meafures  as  might  yet  remain  to  us 
for  promoting  the  public  good.  I  left  Madras, 
therefore,  and  proiecuted  my  journey  without  any 
material  interruption  until  I  reached  Palamcotah, 
where  the  chagrin  arifing  from  my  various  difap- 
pointments,  co-operating  with  fatigue  and  climate, 
threw  me  into  a  fit  of  ficknefs,  which  confined  me 
to  my  bed  for  five  or  fix  weeks.  Upon  recovering 
a  little,  I  crawled  on  to  Anjengo,  where,  at  the 
houfe  of  Mr.  Hutchinson,  the  Refident,  (who 
treated  me  with  cordial  kindnefs),  I  waited  for  an 
opportunity  of  getting  to  Bombay,  and  during  that 
time  laid  in  a  flock  of  flrength  and  fpirits :  at 
length  a  Europe  fhip  touched  at  Anjengo  on  her 
way  to  Bombay,  I  obtained  a  paffage  and  pro- 
ceeded. 

At  Bombay  I  found  Hyat  Sahib,  it  having 
been  deemed  expedient  to  fend  him  away  from 
Bidanore  on  the  approach  of  Tippoo  with  his 
army,  where  1  received  from  him  a  confirmation  of 
what  I  have  dated  reflecting  General  Mathews 
receiving  only  two  lacks  of  rupees  and  a  necklace. 
And  now,  as  peace  was  negociating  between  us 
and  Tippoo,  and  my  remaining  on  the  Malabar 
coaft  could  be  of  little  ufe,  I  determined  to  return 
to  the  Carnatic.  And  here  I  have  an  incident  to 
add  to  the  many  difagreeable  occurrences  of  my 
life,  in  which,  with  intentions  the  mofl  innocent, 
I  was  made  the  iubject  of  obloquy  and  unmerited 
fcandal. 

Juft  at'  the  time  I  was  leaving  Bombay,  a  young 
lady,  the  daughter  of  a  perlon  formerly  of  high 
rank  in  India,  and  now  a  member  of  Parliament, 
but  whofe  name  it  would  be  ufelefs  to  mention, 
wifhed  to  return  to  the  Carnatic  ;  and  I,  at  the 
requeft.  of  herfelf,  and  another  lady  with  whom 
fbe  lived,  unguardedly  took  charge  of  her  during 
the  journey.  Before  our  departure,  I  reflected, 
upon  the  difficulties  and  impropriety  of  this  ftep. 


conclusion.  399 

and  communicated  my  ideas  to  the  ladies,  who,   in- 
ftead  of  liftening  to  the  obje&ions  I  darted,  .pref- 
fed   me    to  fulfil  my  promife  :- 1  confented,   purely 
from    principles    of    politenefs    and     good-nature. 
During  the  courfe  of  our  journey,  (he  unfolded  to 
me,  of  her  own  accord,   certainsa£ts  of  cruelty  and 
injudiee   fhe    had    differed   from   her  father,  at  the 
indigation  of  her  mother-in-law,  with  a  (lory  of  her 
innocence   having   fallen,  and   her  reputation  hav- 
ing  been   dedroyed,  by  a  connection   of  the   lady 
under  whofe  charge  fhe  was,  and  who  for  that  rea-' 
fon  had  preffed  her  departure  with  me  ;  and  added, 
fhe  was  fo  difgufted  with  India,  that  fhe  determin- 
ed to. quit  it ;  and   entreated  me  to  aflid  her  in  the 
accomplifhment  of  her  wifhes.     I   difapproved,  in 
the  mod   unqualified'terms,  of  her    prejc£l— gave 
her   thebed  and    mod   difinterefted  advice — and, 
through  the  whole  difagreeable  bufinefs  which  was 
impoled  upon  me,  afted  merely  with  a  yiew  to  her 
honour    and   happinefs ;    and   feveral    of  the   mod 
refpc&able  people  in  Palamcotah,  where  (he  palled 
fome  time,  and  at   Madras,  where  fhe   afterward* 
redded,  could   atted  the  delicacy  of  my    conduct 
towards   her,  as  well  as  the  concern  and  intered  I 
took,  in  every  thing  that  was  likely  to  be  of  advan- 
tage to  her. 

This  is  a  fair  ftatemcnt  of  the  matter;  and  yet, 
on  account  of  it,  I  was  mod  infamoufly  fcandaliz- 
ed  ;  and  the  fcandal  reached  even  the  ears  of  my 
father,  whom,  however,  I  foon  fatisfied  on  that 
head.  Rut  that  which  dung  me  to  the  quick  was 
the  co  iduct  of  fome  of  my  own  relations,  (who,  if 
they  even  could  not  j  a  ft  i  f  y  or  approve,  ought  at 
lead  to  have  been  filent),  in  becoming  the  mod 
virulent  of  my  detractors — though,  when  the  cha- 
racter of  thole  very  relations  had  on  former  occa- 
fions  been  reflected  upon,  I  dood  up  and  defended 
them  at  the  imminent  har.ird  of  my  life.  Such 
conduct  appeared  to  me  mod  atrocious  ;  for,  whe- 


4C0  CONCLUSION. 

ther  from  affection,  felfiihnefs,  or  pride,  I  always 
flrenuoufly  Supported  my  relations,  if  I  heard  them 
traduced  in  their  abfence — and,  when  I  was  not 
able  to  juflify  their  proceedings,  at  leaft  fuppreffed 
the  conversation.  To  a  man  who  had  uniformly 
ncted  fo,  were  there  even  no  reciprocation  cf 
family  affection,  mutual  juftice  demanded  different 
treatment  from  that  I  experienced,  which  could 
have  fprung  on'.y  from  depravity  of  heart,  poverty 
of  intellect,  and  the  mod  abject  meannefs  of  fpirit. 
And  what  is  remarkable  on  this,  as  well  as  on 
other  occafions,  thole  who  had  been  under  the 
greatefl  obligation  to  my  father  and  myfelf,  were 
the  mofl  inveterate. 

On  the  death  of  my  father,  looking  over  his  pa- 
pers in  the  prefence  of  the  Deputy  Sheriff  of 
Argyll,  and  three  other  gentlemen,  we  met  with  a 
letter  on  the  fubject  from  the  young  lady's  father 
to  mine,  reflecting  in  a  grofs  manner  on  my  cha- 
racter. I  directly  wrote  to  that  gentleman,  explain- 
ing the  whole  affair,  and  demanding  juftice  to  be 
done  to  my  reputation.  Upon  an  ecclaireciffement 
©f  the  matter,  he  wrote- to  me  a  complete  apology, 
acknowledging  that  he  had  acted  on  that  cccafion 
through  mtfreprefentation,  and  had  too  eafiiy  given 
credit  to  ill-founded  reports  ;  and  faying,  that  as 
the  letter  in  queflion  had.  by  the  perufal  of  the 
Deputy  Sheiiif  and  other  gentlemen,  in  fome  tnea- 
fure  become  a  matter  of  public  notoriety,  he  thought 
it  incumbent  on  him  to  make  that  apology,  and  to 
exprefs  his  fincere  regret  for  any  detriment  I  might 
have  fuftained,  by  his  yielding  unguardedly  to  a 
fudden  impulfe  of  paflicn,  cauied,  as  he  was  then 
perfectly  convinced,    by  mi fi information. 

Thus  was  my  character   at   once   cleared  of  a  ca- 
lumny which  the  induflrious   villany  of  a  few  had 
contrived  to    propagate  through   every    Ipot  of  the 
earth  where  I  was  known. 


CONCLUSION.  40* 

This  (lory  may  ferve  as  an  inflructive  lefTon  to 
you,  my  Faederick,  to  avoid,  in  the  very  fir  ft 
inftance,  any  connection  with  women  that  in  the 
probable  courfe  of  things  can  lead  to  private  acts 
of  confidence  :  they  are  at  beft  indifcreet — tend, 
as  in  this  "cafe,  to  make  a  man  a  dupe — and  never 
fail  to  lead  to  fcandal  and  reproach.  You  will  alfo, 
from  the  letter  of  the  lady's  father,  found  eight  or 
ten  years  after  it  was  written  among  my  father's 
papers,  fee  the  impropriety  and  hazard  of  commit- 
ting your  thought^  incautioufly  to  paper.  I  have 
known  it  frequently,  as  in  this  inftance,  end  in 
mortification  and  regret.  .  ,, 

Before  quitting  entirely  the  Malabar  coaft,  I  took 
a  trip  to  Surat,  which  amply  repaid  me  for  my  trou- 
ble, ll  furpaffes  any  part  of  India  for  extent  and 
variety  of  commerce,  for  populous  ftreets  and.  fu- 
burbs,  and  for  a  continually  moving  fcene  of  opu- 
lence. For  a  more  minute  account  of  it,  I  refer 
you  to  the  Abbe  Raynal,  who,  though  not  gene 
rally  accurate,  is  fo  elegant,  that  you  will  be  able, 
-from  his  defcription,  to  form  a  lively  conception 
of  the  place,   ami  its  lingular  cuftoms. 

Here  I  was  received  in  a  very  friendly  manner 
by  Mr.  Seton.  And  indeed  I  may  now  once  for 
all  declare,  that  at  every  place  where  1  flopped', 
and  every  pouVl  palled,  from  my  leaving  England 
till  my  return,  I  experienced  the  mo  ft  kind  and 
liberal  reception,  and  the  moft  affiduous  attention  : 
my  wants  of  every  kind,  whether  of  vefTels,  boats, 
guards  of  Sepoys,  letters  of  introduction,  Sec.  being 
iupplied  by  anticipation.  I  had  fcarcely  occaiion  to 
make  a  requeft,  or  exprefs  a  wilh  ;  nor  was  the 
attention  {hewn  to  the  public  fervice  lefs  than  that 
which  was  mamfefled  for  my  private  convenience. 
To  kindnefs  io  truly  confolatosy  as  it  then  was  to 
me,  I  never  look  back  without  fentiments  of  un- 
bounded gra:itude  and  unfeigned  acknowledgment. 

L  I  2 


402  CONCLUSION. 

My  journeys  by  land  in  India  after  my  {hip- 
wreck,  independent  of  long  voyages  by  fea,  a- 
mounted  to  more  than  three  thoufand  miles.  After 
getting  back  to  Madras,  my  health  being  materially 
injured,  I  refolved  to  return  to  England  :  but, 
having  feen  almoft  all.  the  Company's  pofleflions, 
I  felt  a  curiofity  to  fee  China,  and  determined  to 
make  that  my  way.  To  render  this  route  more 
agreeable  tome,  Lord  Macartney,  in  addition 
to  his  other  favours,  gave  me  .the  following  hand- 
fome  letter  of  introduction  to  Mr.  Pi  gov,  the 
Company's  chief  fupercargo  at  Canton  : 

11  Fort  St.  George,  July  23,   1784. 
"  Sir, 

<f  This  letter  will  be  delivered  to  you  by  Captain 
<;  Donald  Campbell,  of  this  Eftablifhment — a 
c<  gentleman  who  has  fignalized  himfelf  on  many 
•*  cccafions,  but  more  particularly  by  his  ability 
*;  and  addrefs  in  accomplishing  the  furrender  of  the 
•'  fort  of  Bidanore,  at  which  place  he  had  been 
'•  long  a  priioner.  His  ill  {late  of  health  contract- 
44  ed  there,  renders  a  voyage  to  China,  perhaps  to 
**  Europe,  abfolutcly  neceffary.  Should  he  remain 
"  any  time  at  your  Settlement,  I  {hall  be  much 
"  obliged  to  you  for  any  attention  and  civility 
t:  {hewn  to  him  ;  and  I  (hall  be  happy,  on  any  oc- 
t:  cafion  you  may  afford  me,  of  returning  your  po- 
"  lite  attention  to  an  officer  of  io  much  merit 
*:  as  Captain  Campbell,  and  of  proving  how 
s;  much  I  am", 
<;  Sir, 

K  Your  moll  obedient  and  mofi  humble    fervant, 

Macartney, 
*;   To  William  Henry  Pigou,  E/q." 

I  had    alfo  a    letter  to    Mr.  Freeman,  another 
Supercargo   there  ;  by  whom,  as  well  as  by  Mr, 


CONCLUSION.  403 

Pigou,  I  was  treated   with  great  politenefs  ;  and 
Mr.   Freeman  being  obliged  to  leave  Canton,  and 
go  to  Macao,   for  the  recovery  of   his  health,  invi- 
ted me  to  accompany  him  there.     I  availed  myfelf 
of   the    opportunity  :   and,  as    we   went  all    along 
through    the   rivers,  had    an  opportunity  of  feeing 
more  of  the  country  than   many  of  the  Europeans 
who   vint    that   country.     With    the   obfervations 
which    I  made  in  the    courfe  of   this  excurfion  and 
my  refidence  at  Canton,    I  would    furnifh  you,  but 
that  Lord  Macartney's  embaffy  is  juft   returned 
from    that   country  ;  and    there  is   every   reafon  to 
hope  that  he,   or  fome  of  the  gentlemen  who  atten- 
ded   him,  and    who  poffefs    luperior  abilities  and 
more  ample    materials,   will   favour  the  public  with 
a  much  more  peifcft  account  than  mine  could  pof- 
fibly  be. 

While  1  remained  at  Canton,  a  very  difagreeable 
rupture   took    place   between   the   Fa£tory  and  the 
Chinefe.     An  Englifh  fhip  lying  at    Wampoa,    in 
ialuting,   (battered  a   Chinefe   boat  ;  by  which  acci- 
dent, two  men  in  it  were  much  hurt  with  the  fplin- 
ters,  and  one  of   them  died  of  his  wounds  foon  af- 
ter.    The  matter  was  clearly  explained  to  the  Man- 
darins ;  and  they  feemed  to  be  fatisfied  that  it  was 
merely  an  accident.     A  few  days  after,   the  Saper- 
corgo  of  the  fhip  was   forcibly   feized,  and   carried 
into  the  city  :  the  Council  met,  and  determined  to 
fend  for  the  failors  from  the  (hips  :  and  in  the  even- 
ing after  dark,   fifteen  or  fixteen,  boats,   with  four 
or    five  hundred   men   attempted,  in   an    irregular 
manner,   to    come  up  to    Canton — were  fired  upon 
by  the  Chinefe  boats  and  forts  in  paffing,  and,  with 
a    few  men   wounded,   were  compelled    to    retreat. 
Nothing   could  furpafs  the  confternation  and  inde- 
cifion  of  the  Council  ;  and  after  the  molt  humilia- 
ting   language,  they   were    obliged  to  appeafe   the 
Chinefe,  and  fettle  the  affair  by  giving  up  the  gun- 
ner of  the  fhip  to  their  refenuncnt, 


404  CONCLUSION. 

On  the  29th  December,  1784,  I  embarked  irr 
the  Ponfborne  Eaft-Indiaman,  Captain  Hammet, 
in  which  I  had  come  from  Madras  to  China  ;  and, 
after  a  tolerable  voyage  of  five  months  and  two 
days,  got  on  board  a  fifhing  boat  off  Falmouth,  and 
was  put  on  fhore  there,  having  been  exjftly  four 
years  and  five  days  from  England. 

Such  was  my  impatience  to  fee  you,  that  I  wrote 
from  Falmou.h  for  you  to  meet  me  at  Bath.  We 
arrived  there  the  lame  day  :  and  never  in  my  life  did 
I  experience  fuch  tranfports  cs  in  fir  ft  prefling  you 
to  my  bofom  :  I  found  you  all  that" my  heart  could 
wifh  ;  and  I  muft,  in  juftice  to  my  opinion,  aver, 
that  not  one  action  of  your  life  has  tended  fince  to 
give  me  a  moment's  pain  :  on  the  contrary,  I  have 
every  teslon  to  be  latisfied  that  my  fanguine  hopes 
of  you  will  be  realized.  The  turn  of  your  thoughts 
and  a&icns  have  been  vigilantly  watched  and  clofe- 
\y  examined  by  me  ;  and  from  your  afTeftion  to 
xnyfelf  and  your  mother,  your  gentle  deportment  to 
my  domeMics,  your  franknefs  and  candour  with 
your  brother  and  fchool-fellows — even  from  your 
fondnefs  for  your  favourite  dog  Pompey,  and  fre- 
quent filent  contemplations  of  the  etchings  of  his 
countenance,  I  have  drawn  the  mod  pleating  pre- 
fages  of  purity  and  innocence  of  heart,  fweetnefs 
of  temper,  and  refined  honour  and  generofity.  If 
it  pleafes  God  to  (pare  your  life,  and  flrengthen 
your  conflrtution,  I  fhall  ftiil  be  the  happieft  of 
men,  notwithstanding  the  inroad  made  upon  my 
feelings  by  the  hardihips  and  afH!6lions  I  had  un- 
dergone, of  which  many  arofe  from  unavoidable 
accident,  and  fomej  from  malignant  and  unnatural 
perfecution,  aiifing  from  bale  envy,  dictated  by 
cowardly  revenge.  I  do  not  wifh  you  to  know 
who  the  wretches  are  :  I  only  wifh  you  to  know 
that  fuch  deteftable  pauions  do  exifl  in  human  na- 
ture— that,  warned  by  their  wickednefs  to  me,  you 


CONCLUSION.  4©5 

way,    in   your   progrefs  through   life,  be  cautious, 
temperate  and  guarded. 

Another  thing  I  am  anxious  to  imprefs  upon  the 
mind,  particularly,  of  your  brother  John,  is  the 
danger  of  a  warm,  impetuous  temper.  Many  of 
the  hazards  and  difficulties  of  my  life  arofe  from 
the  predominance  of  a  fiery  fpirit,  and  an  ungov- 
ernable, miftaken  ambition.  A  (ingle  inftance  will 
ferve  to  {hew  it.  When  I  was  under  the  com- 
mand of  Captain,  afterwards  General  Mathews, 
in  his  regiment  of  cavalry,  being  cantoned  at  a 
place  called  Tuckolam,  in  the  neighbourhood  of 
extenfive  woods,  information  was  brought  us  that 
wild  bulls  infefted  the  neighbouring  villages,  and 
had  killed  fome  people  :  we  prepared  to  enter  the 
wood,  and  deftroy,  if  pofiible,  thefe  ferocieus  ani- 
mals, which  had  become  the  terror  and  deftruft  on 
of  the  contiguous  country.  The  origin  of  thofe 
wild  herds  was  this — From  time  immemorial,  a  re- 
ligious cuftom  had  prevailed  among  the  Pagan  in- 
habitants, of  offering  a  calf  to  the  wood  upon  the 
accomplishment  of  any  favourite  purpofe,  fuch  as 
the  fafe  delivery  of  his  wife,  or  the  obtaining  an 
employment,  &c.  In  proceis  of  time,  thofe  calves 
bred,  and  became  numerous  and  incredibly  fierce. 
Independent  of  protecting  the  defencelefs  natives, 
it  was  in  itlelf  a  mod  interefling  kind  of  hunting. 
The  mode  of  doing  it  was  this — A  large  party, 
well  mounted,  galloping  in  a  body  up  to  a  great 
flock,  and  maiking  out  the  fierceft  champion  of 
the  whole,  atcacked  him  with  fwords  and  piftols. 
One  day,  a  bull  which  was  wounded,  and  thereby 
rendered  more  fierce,  though  not  lefs  vigorous,  got 
polled  in  lorne  thick  bullies,  in  fuch  a  manner  as 
to  bi  appioached  only  in  front  :  a  whim  of  the 
moft  extravagant  kind  came  into  my  head,  fuggeft- 
ed  by  vain-glory  and  youthful  fire — I  thought  it 
ungenerous  tor  lo  many  to  attack  him  at  once  ;  and, 
wiihing  to  have  the  credit  of  fubduing  hina,  I  dif- 


406  CONCLUSION*. 

mounted  from  my  horfe,  and  attacked  him  with  a 
pike  :  I  foon,  however,  had  caufe  to  repent  this 
rafh  and  unwarrantable  ftep  ;  it  had  nearly  been 
fatal  to  me — for  the  bull  foon  threw  the  pike  into 
the  air,  and,  had  it  not  been  for  the  very  gallant 
exertions  of  my  brother  officers,  who  rode  in  upon 
him,  and  refcued  me  at  the  moment  that  the  brute's 
horns  had  touched  my  coat,  I  mud  have  been  kil- 
led. An  Indian  officer,  who  was  in  my  troop, 
particularly  diftinguiihed  himfelf,  at  the  imminent 
hazard  of  his  life,  the  bull  having  tofled  his  horfe 
ami  himfelf  to  a  diftance  from  his  horns.  At  this 
time  I  was  but  eighteen  years  of  age,  and  had  not 
the  judgment  to  reflect,  that  if  I  had  been  killed, 
my  fate  would  be  attended  with  only  pity  or  fcorn 
for  my  folly  ;  whereas,  had  I  fucceeded,  the  whole 
reward  of  my  danger  would  have  been  the  ufelefs 
applaufe  of  lome  ycungfters,  idle  and  incenfiderate 
as  myfelf — while  my  rafhnefs  would  have  been  re- 
probated by  every  man  whofe  good  opinion  was 
worth  enjoying.  One  or  two  people  who  were 
prefent  at  the  time,  are  now  living  in  great  repute 
in  England.  We  fucceeded,  however,  in  driving* 
thole  wild  cattle  into  the  interior  recefles  of  the 
wood,  dividing  the  flem  of  thofe  we  killed  among 
fuch  of  the  poor  Sepoys  as  would  eat  it,  and  there- 
by rendered  eflential  fervice  to  the  contiguous 
villages. 

Often  when  I  have  heard,  in  corTee-houfes  and 
play-houfes,  fome  of  our  fporting  fpaiks  beading 
of  their  prowefs  over  a  timid  hare  or  a  feeble  fox, 
I  could  not  help  recolltfting  with  refpeft  the  hun- 
teis  of  India,  who  chaie  the  deftru&ive  monfters 
of  the  foreft — the  boar,  the  tyger,  the  hyena,  the 
bull,  or  the  buffalo  ;  and,  while  they  fteel  the 
nerves,  animate  the  courage,  and,  by  habitual,  deeds 
of  pith,  fit  themfelvcs  for  war,  render  cffential  . 
lervice  to  their  fellow  creatures,  and  fave  the  lives  . 
and  property  of  thoulands.     Such  greatneis  cf   < pi- 


CONCLUSION.  407 

rit,  under  the  controul  of  good  fenfe,  and  the  di- 
je£tion  of  prudence,  mull  tender  a  man  refpe£table 
— but,  if  not  managed  with  difcretion,  leaves  a 
man  no  other  praile  than  that  of  a  magnanimous 
madman.  Take  every  opportunity,  my  dear  Fre- 
derick, of  inculcating  thele  precepts  in  the  mind 
of  your  brother  :  the  natural  warmth  of  his  temper 
often  makes  me  fearful  of  the  mifchievous  confe- 
rences which  I  have  myfelf  too  often  experienced 
— though,  I  think  God,  it  never  ftimuiated  me 
to  revenge,  or  to  a  premeditated  intention  of  in- 
juring any  one. 

I  have  already  faid  more  than  once,  that  I  have 
a  mod  perfect  conviflion  your  amiable  difpofition 
will  enlure  to  you  the  love  of  mankind  ;  but  it 
will  at  the  fame  time  iubj:£t  you  to  many  impofui- 
ons — to  gaurd  againtl  which,  a  great  fhare  of  ftern- 
nefs  is  fometimes  neceffary  :  there  is,  be  fides,  a 
certain  degree  of  fortitude  absolutely  requifne  to 
give  luftre  to  a  gentle  difpofition  ;  without  it, 
meeknefs  is  thought  timidity — modefty,  weaknels 
- — and  the  charming  mildnefs  of  the  forgiving  heart, 
abufed  as  the  pitiful  refource  of  abject  apprehenfion 
and  a  mean  l'pirit.  There  are  times,  therefore, 
when  the  wickednels  of  men,  and  the  cuftoms  of 
the  world,  make  it  neceffary  to  lay  afide  the  lamb, 
and  a  flume  the  lion.  Europe  at  this  moment  pre- 
fents  an  awful  and  alarming  cnfis.  In  a  neighbour- 
ing country,  the  conduct  of  the  higher  claries  of 
lociety  has  produced  a  dreadful  convulfion  :  fecial 
order  has  been  fubverted,  and  the  inability  of  pio- 
perty  annihilated  :  all  reafoning  from  the  hiftory 
of  former  times  is  found  inapplicable  to  the  pre- 
fent  :  the  fyftem  of  warfare  itielf  has  undergone  a 
revolution  ;  and  no  man  is/able  to  fay  from  politive 
t  inference,  '*  Thus  will  it  be  to-morrow."  Our 
infular  (ituation,.  thank  God  !  protects  us  :  and 
the  precarious  footing  upon  which  civil  order  and 
property   ftand  in  mod  countries  on  the  continent, 


4oS  CONCLUSION. 

make  our  flate  in  England  enviable.  The  time  is 
neverthelefs  pregnant  with  extraordinary  event  ; 
and  you  are  now  approaching  that  age  at  which 
men  fhould  be  ready  to  act.  at  the  call  of  their  coun- 
try. It  is  therefore  fitting  for  you  to  make  fuch 
things  the  fubjecr,  of  frequent  contemplation — to 
habituate  your  mind  to  the  meeting  of  danger,  fo 
as  to  be  ready,  at  a  moment's  warning,  to  lay  down 
your  life,  if  neccffary,  for  the  good  of  your  coun- 
try ;  for,  after  ail,  my  Frederick,  what  avails 
it  whether  we  die  in  this  way  or  in  that  ? — to  die 
with  honour  and  a  good  confeience,  is  all.  Let 
prejuuice  be  laid  afide — and  who,  pofTeffed  of  com- 
mon lenie,  could  hefilate  a  moment  to  prefer  death 
in  the  field s  to  death  with  the  loathfome  aggrava- 
tion of  fickneis,  the  crocodile  tears  of  pretended 
friends,  and  the  painful  emotions  and  lamentations 
of  thofe  who  really  love  us  ? 

Finally,  I  mutt  obferve,  that  at  the  time  I  left  In- 
dia, the  ?ffaus  of  the  Britifh  Nation  wore  fo  very 
lowering  an  e  t,  all  perfons  acquainted  with  our 
concerns  there,  .'lowed  nothing  but  a  long  feries 
of  wife  meafurcs.  with  the  beft  efficient  fervants  to 
execute  them,  could  relcue  the  company  from  ruin. 
I  am  happy  in  being  ahle  now  to  ftate,  without 
the  pollibility  cf  contradiction,  that  the  clouds 
which  menaced  us  in  that  quarter  have  fince  been 
gradually  diflipating  beneath  the  meafures  of  the 
Board  of  Controul,  under  the  direction  of 
Mr.  Dundas  ;  and  are  at  laft  entirely  difperfed 
by  the  glorious  adminiftration  of  Lord  Cornwal- 
lis,  whofe  wildom  in  the  cabinet  tended  no  lefs 
to  the  fecurity,  than  his  military  talents,  juftice 
and  moderation,  to  the  honour,  of  Great  Bri- 
tain in  the  Eaft.  The  choice  of  fuch  a  perfon 
fot  the  government  of  India,  reflects  credit  on  His 
Majesty's  Councils,  and  evinces  that  the  pater- 
nal care  and  folicitude  of  our  amiable  Sovereign 
extend  to  the  moll  remote  part  of  the  Empire. 
end    oi    PART    III. 


APPENDIX. 


LETTER  FROM  GENERAL  MATHEWS, 
TO 

THE  COURT  OF  DIRECTORS  OF   THE 
EAST  INDIA    COMPANY. 


(referred  to  in  the  foregoing  letters.) 


Honourable  Sirs, 

X  HAVE  the  honour  of  informing  you  of 
ihe  fuccefs  of  your  arms  on  the  Malabar  coaft. 
You  will  have  received  advices  of  the  outfet  of 
the  expedition  from  Bombay,  and  the  general  pur- 
port of  it.  On  the  12th  of  December,  I  failed 
with  a  fmall  party ;  and  thought  proper,  of  my 
own  accord,  to  land  at  Rajamundroog,  in  prefer- 
ence to  any  other  place — becaufe,  on  this  part  of 
the  coaft  I  had  the  double  advantage  of  being  able 
to  fecure  myfelf  until  reinforced,  and  to  procure 
provilions,  which  I  could  not  have  done  at  Cun- 
dapore,  or  any  place  to  the  Couth  ward,  by  reafon 
of  the  numerous  garrifons,  and  the  vicinity  of 
them  to  the  capital.  The  mcaiures  and  difpofiuons 
of  the  gentlemen  at  Bombay  were  fuch,  that  I 
could  not  place  any  dependence  upon  being  timely 
reinforced  from  thence,  or  of  having  any  fupply 
of  provifions.     Rajamundroog   is  on   the  top  of  a 

M  m 


4io  APPENDIX. 

high  hill,  and  commands  the  entrance  of  the  beft 
river  on  the  coaft.  We  took  it  by  ftorm.  The 
moment  we  landed,  a  lhort  time  was  taken  up  in 
preparing  to  move  towards  Onore  ;  for  we  had  not 
a  cooly,  carriage,  or  bullock,  to  convey  any  ftores. 
The  battering  cannon,  ammunition,  provifions,  &c. 
were  fent  by  lea  ;  and  the  great  additions  that  Hy- 
der  had  made  to  the  fortifications  of  Onore  and 
fortified  Ifland,  prevented  my  entering  the  river 
with  the  fmall  craft,  and  obliged  me  to  land  every 
thing  through  a  heavy  furf  on  the  beach,  and  then 
to  crofs  the  river  to  the  northward  of  the  fort. 
Thefe  impediments  were  got  over  ;  and  a  practica- 
ble breach  being  effected,  the  affault  was  made — 
and  the  garrifon,  confiding  of  two  thoufand  five 
hundred    men,    were    either   killed,    drowned,    or 

made    prifcners. Shortly    after    this    event,     the 

troops  from  the  louihward,  under  Lieutenant  Co- 
lonel Macleod,  were  landed  at  Rajamundroog. 
To  wait  tor  a  junction,  would  take  up  much  time  : 
fo,  that  not  a  moment  fhouid  be  loll,  I  embarked, 
and  landed  near  Cundapore,  under  the  fire  of  the 
Bombay  Grab  and  the  Intrepid,  and  immediately 
feized  a  fmall  fort  that  leived  to  iecuie  our  ftores. 
The  enemy  were  in  fight,  and  ieemed  numerous  : 
feme  priloners  that  we  tock,  reckoned  them  at 
twelve  hundiea  1  orfe,  ore  thculand  Sepoys,  and 
five  hundred  Peons.  My  party  w  as  compofed  of 
three  hundred  ard  fifty  Europeans,  fix  hundred 
Sepoys,  and  four  in  oil  fieid-pieces —  with  which  I 
marched,  hi  ft.  towards  the  enemy,  who  drew  ba*ck, 
and  then  I  pioccec'ed  to  Curdapore.  They  incom- 
moded my  re3i  very  much  ;  hut  beirg  determined 
to  attack  the  fort,  I  only  8C~ted  on  the  defenfive, 
and  at  (even  in  the  evening  got  polTeflion  of  the 
foit,  at  d  the-  feveral  redoubts  that  con  manded  the 
liver.  Tie  grand  object  of  the  expedition,  an  at- 
tack upon  Bids  u-mained  to  be  undertaken; 
and  much  feiious  leflc&ion   it  icquiitd   before  the 


APPENDIX.  4*1 

hazardous  enterprize  mould  be  determined  on. — 
Your  Honours  will  now  take  a  view  of  the  flate 
of  my  army :  No  carriage-bullock,  and  the  few 
draft  not  able  to  draw  eight  light  field-pieces — not 
a  cooly  to  carry  mufquet,  ammunition  or  piovifions 
— not  a  tent — and  many  officers,  His  Majesty's 
in  particular,  had  not  a  Tingle  fervant — neither  bul- 
lock or  fheep  to  be  had,  the  enemy  having  drove 
them  off.  The  army,  at  this  time,  confided  of 
about  eleven  hundred  effective  Europeans,  and 
three  thoufand  Sepoys.  The  diftance  from  Cun- 
dapore  to  the  foot  of  the  Ghaut  is  thirty  miles, 
through  a  woody  country  :  the  enemy's  army  had 
been  reinforced,  and  lay  in  the  way.  The  reports 
of  the  flrength  of  the  Various  works  that  defended 
the  pafs  up  the  mountains,  was  fuch  as  gave  me 
but  very  faint  hope  of  fuccefs  ;  and  the  difficulty 
of  fupplving  my  troops  with  rice,  was  almoft  of 
itfelf  fufficient  to  deter  a  perfon  from  the  attempt. 
However,  having  pofitive  orders  to  take  poffeffion 
of  Bidanore,  1  lefolved  to  make  a  trial,  and  iffued 
dirc&ions  for  the  march.  We  had  not  gone  fix 
miles,  before  the  enemy  oppofed  us  in  force.  We 
pufhed  forwards  ;  and,  by  the  effect  of  well  ferved 
artillery,  and  the  fl^adinefs  of  the  men,  the  enemy 
retired  as  we  advanced.  The  fkirmifh  continued 
about  three  hours — after  which  we  were  left  to 
purfue  our  route  unmolefted  ;  nor  did  the  enemy 
make  any  ftand  till  we  were  on  the  fourth  day's 
march,  within  three  miles  of  the  pais — where,  the 
ground  being  favourable,  they  attempted  oppofi- 
tion,  and  were  roughly  treated,  lofing.  by  the  bay- 
onet and  (hot,  above  three  hundred  men.  They 
were  purfued  to  a  fmall  fort,  which  was  immedi- 
ately abandoned  ;  and  then  fled  to  the  firft  barrier 
or  entrance  of  the  pafs.  This  was  a  line  of  ma- 
fonry  th<it  covered  all  the  open  ground,  and  was 
doled  by  woods  to  the  right  and  left.  Upon  fix 
baftlons   were  mounted  fifteen  pieces  of  cannon  ; 


412  APPENDIX. 

and  on  the  left  was  a  work  on  a  deep  mountain, 
with  two  twelve  pounders.  This  altogether  had 
too  formidable  an  appearance  to  attack  in  front ; 
but  having  reconnoitred  the  right,  I  imagined  that 
the  flank  might  be  turned  by  afcending  the- hill 
through  the  wood.  Early  in  the  morning,  two* 
parties  were  formed — one  to  attempt  the  flank,  the 
other  to  efcalade  the  wall  ;  but  the  enemy  faved  us 
that  trouble  by  evacuating  the  place.  This  was  a 
happy  moment  to  try  the  pafs  ;  for  the  enemy,  by 
felling  trees,  &c.  would  have  thrown  fo  many  ob- 
ftacles  in  the  way,  that  the  want  of  provifion  would 
have  compelled  me  to  relinquifh  the  defign.  A 
party  was  inflantly  ordered  to  follow  the  enemy  up 
the  hill,  which,  with  little  lofs,  gained  the  fecond 
barrier,  on  which  were  mounted  eleven  guns. 
Fifty  of  the  enemy  were  killed  or  taken  at  this 
work.  Having  this  fuccefs,  I  relieved  the  ex- 
haufted  by  frefh  detachments,  which  excited  emu- 
lation, and  encouraged  the  ardour  of  the  Sepoys  ; 
for,  to  the  unremitting  exertions  of  this  branch  of 
your  troops  is  due  the  honour  of  this  day.  Battery 
after  battery  was  taken  ;  and  the  pofFeflion  of  the 
fort  on  the  top  of  the  Ghaut,  about  five  in  the 
afternoon,  called  Hyderghur,  crowned  the  whole. 
At  this  fort  we  found  mounted  thirty  pieces  of 
cannon,  from  twenty-four  to  four  pounders  ;  and 
at  the  different  works  in  the  pafs,  forty  others, 
from  four  to  twelve.   ' 

When  we  contemplated  the  numerous  redoubts 
and  the  height  of  the  Ghaut,  and  were  told  by  pri- 
foners  that  we  had  drove  off  feventeen  thoufand  men, 
including  difmountecf  cavalry,  regular  Sepoys,  and 
match-lock  Peons,  we  could  not  confider  the  vic- 
tory we  had  gained  as  due  to  us — our  weak  efforts 
would  have  been  in  vain.  The  progrefs  of  your 
arms  is  to  be  afcribed  to  the  Divine  will.  In  the 
courfe  of  this  war,  Providence  has  been  peculiarly 
bountiful — When   we    were  in  want  of  rice,    we 


APPENDIX.  413 

were  fure  to  find  a  fupply  left  for  our  ufe  by  the 
enemy — when  our  mulquet-ammunition  was  ex- 
pended, the  enemy's  magazines  furnifhed  us  abun- 
dantly— cannon  we  found  in  every  fort,  and  fuch 
quantities  of  wailike  (tores,  that  we  are  apt  to  fup- 
pofe  that  Hyder  lupplied  all  his  garrifons  from  this 
coaft  and  from  Bidanore.  Hyderghur  is  about  four- 
teen miles  from  Hydernagur,  alias  Bidanore,  the 
capital  of  the  Province. 

In  the  night  of  the  day  that  we  gained  the  Ghaut, 
I  was  viliied  by  Captain  Donald  Campbell,  the 
fon  of  Colonel  Charles  Campbell.  He  had 
been  wrecked  off  the  coaft,  was  leiz^d,  and  kept 
in  irons,  until  the  approach  of  this  army  caufed  the 
Jemadar  to  releale  him,  to  employ  him  as  an  Am- 
bafiidor.  His  mcffige  was,  that  the  Jemadar  hav- 
ing loft  his  Mafter  (Hyder),  and  being  upon  bad 
t;ims  with  Tippoo  Sahib,  would  willingly  put 
himfelf  under  the  protection  of  the  Company,  pro- 
vided that  the  management  of  the  country  was  con- 
tinued to  him.  The  idea  of  getting  poflefaon  of 
the  capital  and  the  forts  of  the  kingdom  towards 
Seringapatam,  as  well  as  the  vciy  great  advantage  I 
might  expe£t  from  his  experience,  abilities  and  in- 
fluence, with  the  weak  llale  of  my  army,  induced 
me  to  clofe  with  the  propofal  ;  and  I  lent  him  a 
cowl,  fignifying  that  his  power  and  inUuenee  fhould 
fiat  be  leiTcned.  This,  tho'  not  drawn  with  a  pen 
of  a  lawyer,  was  equal  in  value  to  t.  5  capital  of 
Bidanoie.  Captain  Campbell  resumed  with  it, 
and  was  to  tell  the  Jemadar  that  I  fhould  march  in 
the  morning. 

Not  expecting  the  great  fuccefs  that  we  had  met 
with  by  forcing  the  pafs  on  the  main  road,  1 
detached  lieutenant- Colonel  Macleod  to  the. Km: 
to  alcend  the  Ghaut  through  a  narrow  path,  in  or- 
der to  attack  Hyderghur  in  the  I'ealr.  The  abfence 
cf  this  detachment,  and  the  fatigue  of  the  former 
day,  reduced  my  party  to  about  lour  hund.ed  ivu 
M  m  2 


4*4  APPENDIX, 

ropeans  and   feven  hundred    Sepoys  ;  and    all   my 
guns  were  at  the  bottom  of  the  Ghaut.      With  this 
detachment   I    moved    towards  Bidanore,   and    was 
within  a  mile  of  the  walls  before  any  melTage  came 
from  Captain  Campbell  or  the  Jemadar  :  but  hav- 
ing nothing  to  apprehend  in  the  field  from  the  pa- 
nic-ftruck  ■  enemy,   we  continued  our  march  until 
the  welcome  approach  of  Captain  Campbell  affur- 
ed  me  the  place   was  our  own.     On  entering  it,   I 
was  plcaled  to  lee  about  four  hundred  of  your  Sepoys 
that  had  been  taken   in    the    Carnatic,   who  offered 
me  their  fervice.      Upon  vifiting  the  Jemadar,  I  re- 
peated mv  nffurances,   that  while  he  behaved  faith- 
fully to  the  Company,  the  management  of  the  coun- 
try fnould  be  continued  to  him  ;  and,  although  the 
(word  mull  be   in  your  hands,   that  he  fhould  have 
as  much  power  and  influence  as  his  ftaiion  r<  quired 
arid  that  you  would  no:  refuie  feitling  upon  him  ve- 
ry ample  allowances.  The  enemy  being  in  force,  ?nd 
my  army   much   weakened,    with  other  difagreeablc 
matters*  that  occured,  prevented  my  further  advance 
than  to  take  pofieilkm  of  two  forts  to  the  Eaftward; 
for,  being  apprehenfive  that  the  Kiilidar  or  Ivianga- 
lore   would    not  deliver   up  that  place  to  the  order 
of  Hyat  Sahib,   and  conhd-ering   that  famous  lea- 
port    of   more    conlequence    to  your  affairs  th.3n  ac- 
quiring territory  beyond  the  mountains,  I  held  my- 
lelf  in  readinefs  to  march  that  way,  and  was  forced 
to  lay  fiege  to  it.      A  practicable  breach  bring  made, 
the  K'.llidsr  thought  piv.per  to  furrenuer  it.      Upon 
this  happy  event  give  me  leave  to  congratulate  you  ; 
for  it  partly    fecuves  our  conqueils   from  Carwar  to 
Cdnancre.      There    are    two    or  three   places  that  I 
have  not  been  able  to  fummons  ;  but  as  theie  g_ai 
ons    cannot   expect   any    iuccour,   they    will  iaii  of 
couvle. 

lis  have  I  g:vcn  your  honours  r  fnort  recital, 
from  the  fir  ft  landing  of  your  arms  on  the  12  h  of 
DwQficnbei,  to  the  redu&ion  of  Mangalore  on  the  5th 


APPENDIX.  415 

of  March  ;  in  which   fhort  time  a  Ceries   of  fuccefs 
has  attended  us  that  can  hardly  be  paralleled.      All 
the  enemy's  marine  ha«  fallen  in  our  hands,   among 
which  are   eight  {hips  of    the    line,   either  built  or 
on  the  flocks  ;  and  five  of    them    might  be    lent  to 
fea  in  a   fhort   time.     After    informing  you    of  the 
happy  and  glorious  fucceis  of  your  arms,    it  is  pain- 
ful for   me  to  tell  you,      that  diffention  in     the    ar- 
my,  on  account    of    plunder  and  booty,   has  ari fen 
to  tuch    a  height    as    to  threaten    open    mutiny.      I 
have  informed  your  Honours  of   the  terms  that  the 
Jemadar  required,  and  that  I  in  your  name  granted  ; 
and  you  know  in  how  peacabie  a  manner  this  cioital, 
was  refigned  to   you.     I  am    forry  to  lay,   that  His 
Majesty's  officers  have  been  foremoft   in  the  cla- 
mours ;  and  that  the  agents  appointed  by  them  have 
occj Honed    me   mucn    trouble    and   anxietv.   and  a 
great   deal  of  discontent    throughout    the  army.      I 
ihall  lend  you  copies  of  the  ieveral  letters  that  hive 
p-iiTed,    for  your    determination.     They    may    fup- 
poie  that  I   have  ap«bpriatcd    trealure   to  my  own 
ule,   or  bargained  to  reitore  the  private  property  of 
the  Jemadar  to  him  ;  or  that  I  fhould  agree  that  he 
inould  call  ail  trealure  and   jewels  his  private    pro- 
perty*  to  the  excluhon  of  what  of  light  fhouid  be- 
long to  the    Honourable  Company    or    the  captors. 
I  have   only   to  allure   your   Honours,  that  I    have 
made  no  bargain  whatever,  either  public  or  piivate, 
but  what  was  expreiled  in  the  cowl  lent    from  Hy- 
derghur,   to  which  Captain    Campbell    was    wit- 
nefs  :   and  as    I  have    fjcqucntiy   mentioned  to  my 
friends,    that  I  would  not  receive  a  prelent  of  con- 
iequence   without  the    content  of  the    Honojiaoie 
MBpany,    I  fhail  inform  you.  that  en  my  fit  it  viiit 
t-e  Jemadar    infilled  on    making  me  a  prelent  of  a 
lac  <  of  rupees  ;  and  when  he  pieaied   to  give  a  du- 
ration to  the  army  of  two  lacks  and  thirty  thouund 
of  rupees,   which    ium    waits  your  plealure,   he  re- 
queued i    would  accept  of  ano'.her  lack  of  rupees, 


416  APPENDIX. 

To  both  of  thefe  vequefts  refpe&ing  myfelf,  I  re- 
plied, that  provided  your  Honours  would  give  me 
leave,  I  fhould  certainly  embrace  that  fortunate 
moment  to  gain  an  independence,  and  fhall  wait 
your  orders  as  to  the  diipofal  of  two  lacks  of  ru- 
pees. How  far  my  former  and  the  preient  fervi- 
ces  may  entitle  me  to  your  good  .  pinion,  and  to 
your  acquiefcence  in  thus  rewarding  me,  is  left  to 
ihe  generofiiy  of  your  Honours  :  but  I  beg  that 
you  will  believe,  that  during  the  coiirfe  of  my  fer- 
vices,  every  thing  of  a  fimiiiar  nature  fhali  be  laid 
before  you. 

If  it  were  poflible  to  fatisfy  the  avidity  of  a  body 
of  n>?n,  this  little  armv  would  have  a  (ufEency  of 
honour  and  pre  fit  to  fill  the  mod  greedy  ;  but  the 
infirmities  of  nature  are  not  to  be  controuled  by 
reafon.  Avatice  of  the  m<  ft  pernicious  tendency 
has  pervaded  the  limits  of  lenle,  and  flopped  be- 
yond the  bounds  of  duty.  The  army,  not  content 
with  acq  filing,  at  the  different  places,  that  has 
been  taken  on  the  coaft  ujpftiips  of  war,  naval 
flores,  merchandize,  &c.  Sec.  arid  in  goous  of  va- 
rious kinds  at  Bidanore,  which  altogether  the  Je- 
lmcar  fays  may  be  valued  at  thirty  lacks  of  pago- 
das ;  they  feek  to  deprive  the  Jemadar  of  his  pri- 
vate property,  under  pretence  of  the  lawful  rights 
of  war  ;  and  aiTume  a  flyle  and  manner  in  their 
clamours  and  united  addiefles,  that  appears  inten- 
ded to  force  from  ine  what  I  think  ought  to  be 
preferved  for  the  public  fervicc,  and  for  the  benefit 
of  the  Honourable  Company.  The  manner  that 
the  fort  and  city  was  delivered  to  the  company, 
does  not  authorise  me  to  touch  private  property  ; 
find  the  cowl  implies  a  pcrfe£t  fecurtiy  for  all  iuch. 
Would  your  honours  be  plealed,  that  by  any  rapa- 
cious action  of  your  Commander  in  Chief,  that  he 
or  the  troops  fhould  forfeit  the  good  opinion 
thai  may  be  entertained  of  them  from  their  rapid 
iuccefs,  or  that   the  public   fervtce  fnould  be    con- 


APPENDIX. 


4*7 


fidered  as  a  fecondary  object  ?  Our  name  has  fallen 
almoft  to  contempt  ,  but,  as  far  as  lays  in  my  pow- 
er, it  fhall  be  recovered,  if  not  railed  to  its  former 
fminence. 

Mangalore,   March  16,   1783. 


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